FEBRUARY 2017 | Our 39th Year AndrewHarper.com

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES © MMUENZL/ADOBE © /

PICTURESQUE CITIES, SENSATIONAL SCENERY, STELLAR SEAFOOD COVER PHOTOGRAPH Seven Sisters Waterfall on Geirangerfjord, Norway Norway: Oslo, Bergen and the Fjords THIS MONTH

orway is one of the most peaceful beginning of the oil boom in the 1970s, the A NORWEGIAN JOURNEY and hospitable countries in the Norwegians have developed a discerning On a two-week trip by car, train and ferry, Nworld. There are two primary taste for luxury and comfort, which is I visited the country’s two major cities and travel experiences: The first is a cruise complemented by the purity and simplic- then headed north to Alesund, the gateway to along its island-dotted, fjord-indented ity of Scandinavian design. Norway’s most spectacular fjord district...... 1-7 coastline. The second is the one that I We began our journey in Oslo, the  Online: Traditional foods; Touring itinerary made last summer: a two-week mix of country’s capital and largest city, then land- and sea-based adventures. The trip traveled to Bergen by train, visited NEW YORK NEWS allowed us to take our time and to chat that city and the surrounding region, Hotel debuts, notable new restaurants and the with the friendly locals — almost all of continued north from Bergen to Alesund city’s passion for food halls...... 8-11 whom speak perfect English — as well as via an overnight voyage on the famous  Online: Ethnic food shops to get off the beaten track to view land- Hurtigruten shipping and cruise line and scapes of unique and unmarred beauty. then explored Alesund and its environs Find video and more photography of our trips at AndrewHarper.com/hideaway-report We also stayed in some well-run and by car and ship for several days. Though spectacularly located hotels and made this itinerary may sound ambitious, it is Andrew Harper travels anonymously and pays delicious discoveries while sampling very easy and comfortable to travel in full rate for all lodging, meals and related the inventive restaurant scene. Norway Norway since excellent roads, a small but travel expenses. Since the inception of is not only a very wealthy country — due impressive rail network and an excellent this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels to its massive oil reserves — but also an system of coastal steamers and ferries and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. extremely sophisticated one. Since the link the country together.

Full-service travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. The Thief exterior; bedroom; and lounge Theatercaféen and Eik Annen Etage Restaurant; Deluxe Room, Hotel Continental; and Oslo Opera House

/ THIEF EXTERIOR: © JASON STRONG / THIEF ROOM & LOUNGE: © MATTIAS HAMREN / OPERA HOUSE: © NANISIMOVA/ISTOCK

We traveled in mid-June, which is books in some 35 different languages. Occupying a modern building over- perhaps the ideal time of the year, since The other much-talked about neigh- looking a canal but set back from the the countryside is bright with wildflow- borhood revitalization scheme is Tjuvhol- waterfront, The Thief is a friendly, well- ers and the waterfalls are still powerful men, or Thief Island, so named because it run boutique property popular with the torrents fed by snowmelt, but the high- used to be a honky-tonk district frequent- city’s smart set as well as a weekend-away season crowds of July and August have ed by sailors (and later an execution destination for Norwegians and other yet to arrive. After September, many ground for thieves). Now it has been Scandinavians. On arrival, the welcome museums and other attractions reduce completely rebuilt and is home to both was friendly, and the hotel immediately their hours, and the transport systems the Astrup Fearnley Museum, a collec- established its arty credentials with a switch to a less-frequent service. tion of modern art housed in a striking canvas by Richard Price in the lobby, building designed by Renzo Piano, and art videos in the elevators and several OSLO the 118-room The Thief hotel. Warhols on the walls of the THIEF FOOD- ocated at the head of the Oslofjord, a Llong, craggy inlet in the southeast of the country, Oslo is an attractive green ALESUND 6 SKODJE NORWEGIAN NORWEGIAN city with a spectacular setting and splen- SEA 4 STORFJORD SEA did museums. You should plan to spend HJØRUNDFJORD ØYE at least four nights to sample all it has SÆBØ 5 GEIRANGER ALESUND SWEDEN to offer. Oslo is in the midst of a major HELLESYLT NORWAY FINLAND urban makeover that has adorned it GEIRANGERFJORD BERGEN with some striking modern architecture, y OSLO

err notably the Oslo Opera House, which WEDEN COPENHAGEN has contributed to the transformation S of the Bjørvika, a formerly rundown 1 The Thief industrial district on the waterfront. SOGNEFJORD Hotel Continental Designed by Norwegian firm Snøhetta Hurtigruten F NÆRØYFJORD 2 Det Hanseatiske Hotel (architects of New York City’s National AURLANDSFJORD 3 Solstrand Hotel & Bad GUDVANGEN September 11 Memorial Museum Pavil- FLAM 4 Hotel Brosundet ion), this dramatic $700 million building 5 Hotel Union Øye of intersecting planes and sloping stone 2 VOSS 6 Storfjord Hotel surfaces has become the forerunner of BERGEN OS Bergen Line additional avant-garde projects. Other 3 BJØRNAFJORDEN cultural institutions now under construc- tion include a new National Gallery, a new museum devoted to the works of OSLO painter Edvard Munch and a new home NORWAY 1 for the Deichman Library, which contains

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2017 Flåm Railway; and the Nærøyfjord BAR restaurant. There we enjoyed an and a contemporary annex, and it has excellent lunch of shellfish tartare with recently been renovated and completely scallops and pickled fennel, and butter- redecorated. The British firm RPW Design roasted turbot with baked Jerusalem found a way to respect the property’s artichokes. (The Thief also has a gastro- traditional aspects — for example, leaving nomic restaurant, Fru K, that serves its collection of Munch lithographs in the contemporary Norwegian cooking.) lobby — while making it more modern with Upstairs, our Deluxe Room came with streamlined furniture, stylish glass table a partial sea view through sliding glass lamps and earth-tone colors accented by doors that led to a small private balcony. acid-tone throw pillows. The hotel dates The interior contained contemporary to 1900 and is renowned locally for its furniture designed by a raft of well-known beautiful art nouveau Theatercaféen bar international designers including Tom and restaurant, which serves a delicious Dixon and Patricia Urquiola. Oak parquet comfort-food menu. floors, a gray-and-gold headboard by Although the Hotel Continental has B&B Italia, a down duvet and Norwegian- some superb suites with sea views, we made woolen blankets by Røros Tweed all settled for a good-value Deluxe Room, RAILWAY: © MORTENRAILWAY: RAKKE/COURTESY VISIT FLAM / FJORD: © BENTINGE/ISTOCK contributed to a mood that was agreeably which came with a sitting area, ample / serene. Additional amenities included closet space and a handsome bath with an espresso maker, a sound system with two sinks set in a black stone counter docking station and thick wool slippers. and a combined shower and tub. From MAGICAL NORWAY TOUR Overall, the room was well-lit and very an efficient concierge to the cheerful comfortable, if a little small. The white chambermaids, the staff were consis- ome of the best views of the Norwegian fjords marble bath with a separate tub and tently outstanding. We would definitely Sare to be had from the exceptionally well-run rainfall shower was well-designed, and stay here again on a future visit to Oslo. and coordinated “Norway in a nutshell” tour. the lighting was excellent throughout. The daylong trip costs about $160 per person Overall, The Thief is a very pleasant and involves three trains, a bus and a boat. The hotel, but I found it slightly puzzling that BERGEN program begins at Bergen station, where you it has been so lionized by the mainstream he Bergensbanen, a 310-mile rail board a Bergen Railway train to Voss. There you American travel magazines. Even for Tline connecting Olso and Bergen, is transfer to a bus and head down the stunning Stalheimskleiva road to Gudvangen, at the head Oslo, it is very expensive, and its location spectacularly scenic and one of the most of the Nærøyfjord. A sleek new cruiser then takes is slightly inconvenient for sightseeing. popular rail journeys in Europe. Tickets you up the Nærøyfjord — one of the narrowest We liked the 155-room Hotel Conti- need to be booked as far in advance as fjords in Norway — and down the Aurlandsfjord nental from the moment we arrived. possible, as they frequently sell out during to Flåm. From there, you take the Flåm Railway This handsome, family-owned hotel has a the summer. Since it is a seven-hour jour- up the mountain to Myrdal. The 12-mile journey central location and is within an easy walk ney, we went to Mathallen, Oslo’s indoor takes an hour and ascends over 2,625 feet. of the city’s main attractions. It comprises food market, to shop for a picnic before Finally, you take the express train from Myrdal an original Belle Epoque stone building the departure of our train at noon. There back to Bergen. It is a full and utterly magical day. norwaynutshell.com Bergen overview; grilled langoustine at Lysverket; the fish market; and harbor in the Bryggen neighborhood

/ BERGEN: © CN0RA/ADOBE / LYSVERKET: © LARS PETTER PETTERSEN / FISH MARKET & BRYGGEN PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER FEBRUARY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Solstrand Hotel & Bad exterior; Room 211; view of Bjørnafjorden from a guest room; and pool / EXTERIOR PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER / ROOMS: © BENT RENE SYNNEVAG / SPA: © EIRIK SOLHEIM

we bought bread, smoked salmon, shrimp bath with a claw-foot soaking tub and a Norway. There, we savored the dozens of salad, cheese, fruit and a bottle of Ries- separate shower. shades of gray that composed the view on ling in a cold sleeve. We boarded with the The hotel provides a very good break- an overcast morning. We also spent time daily newspapers, magazines and books, fast buffet, and the snug, book-linedFG inspecting the photographs on the walls, but we barely glanced at any of them, as Bar, with leather Chesterfield sofas, is an which told the story of the place. Opened the landscapes seen from the train had agreeable spot for a drink before or after in 1896 by Christian Michelsen, Norway’s a hypnotizing beauty. Built between 1875 dinner. But the hotel’s three restaurants first prime minister, the Solstrand quickly and 1909, the line climbs to an altitude of are not recommended: There are much became one of the country’s most famous 4,000 feet and passes through 182 tunnels better places to eat in the city, from a hotels, where affluent Bergen families before descending to the Atlantic coast. simple but very fresh seafood meal at spent their holidays, honeymoons and Seven hours may sound interminable, but the Torget (fish market) to the excellent anniversaries, also enjoying the added in fact the journey went by almost too fast. modern Norwegian bistro Lysverket, which entertainment provided by the fancy Bergen was founded in A.D. 1070 and is run by chef Christopher Haatuft, who folk from Oslo. We had just settled in for has a spectacular setting, with green formerly cooked at Thomas Keller’s Per a lazy interlude when the front desk clerk misty mountains providing a backdrop to Se in New York City. reappeared to tell us that our room was a pretty little port. Its enduring personal- ready; clearly, housekeeping had made a ity as a busy, outward-looking trading town big effort, which was much appreciated. is explained by the fact it was once part OS Our suite in the newer south wing of of the Hanseatic League, a commercial n this trip, we took water rather than the hotel came with glorious views over and defensive confederation of merchant Oland transportation whenever possi- the hotel gardens, the Bjørnafjorden and guilds and their respective ports that was ble, since almost every ferry in Norway the distant islands and mountains. A pair founded in the 13th century. offers a scenic experience. This is why we of wicker armchairs on the west-facing Alas, though Bergen is a delightful chose the ferry for the 40-minute boat ride balcony and another pair just inside the place and the jumping-off point for a to Os. There, a friendly driver from the sliding doors had been arranged so that variety of adventures, the city’s hotels 135-room Solstrand Hotel & Bad (“bad” the panorama wouldn’t be obstructed are unimpressive. After a disappointing is Norwegian for bath, here referring to if you were lying in bed. Many details night at the Augustin Hotel, we moved the hotel’s spa) was waiting for us on the delighted, such as the porthole window to the 37-room Det Hanseatiske Hotel, dockside. The Solstrand turned out to be over the dressing table, but the small bath which occupies several 18th-century a collection of mustard-colored wooden with a combination shower and tub was wooden houses in the Bryggen, the buildings with charming gingerbread- in need of updating. The hotel’s spa — historic UNESCO-listed port district. style wooden fretwork on their eaves. It which includes a large indoor swimming Today the harbor is used by pleasure was only 10:30 a.m., and the delightful pool, sauna and hammam — was state- craft and ferries, since the large ships woman at the front desk invited us to have of-the-art, however. And the menu in the have moved farther away. To be happy coffee in the lounge or to go for a stroll dining room suited the hotel perfectly; here, I suggest booking a Deluxe Room or along the coastal footpath at the bottom we enjoyed an exceptional dinner of a Suite; Standard Rooms can be dark. Our of the immaculately groomed garden. creamy shellfish soup, grilled salmon, Deluxe Room came with exposed beams We made ourselves comfortable in the and blueberry tart. in a varnished wood ceiling, parquet lounge, with its beechwood Biedermeier- The Solstrand is attractive, comfort- floors, a velvet upholstered couch, a bed style furniture, huge picture windows and able and has a gorgeous location, but with a black leather headboard and a bookshelves stocked with volumes about ultimately the best thing about the place

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2017 The MS Trollfjord is the staff. During our stay, everyone Union Øye is a clapboard structure with was friendly, spontaneous, alert and gingerbread fretwork, trimmed gables and eager to please, and as a result the hotel balconies and a fascinating history. At the COASTAL VOYAGES had a delightfully relaxed and homey end of the 19th century, wealthy Europe- atmosphere. It was a wrench to leave, ans were in search of new destinations of but this is a place to which I definitely great natural beauty, and in 1891 the Hotel intend to return. Union Øye opened to cater to the demand. As the guest book reveals, the hotel was exceptionally successful, attracting such ØYE clients as Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany © CONNY WÜNSCHE / COURTESY HURTIGRUTEN COURTESY / WÜNSCHE CONNY © fter a memorable day spent touring along with famous names like Sir Arthur / Athe surrounding area, we boarded Conan Doyle and Henrik Ibsen. naugurated in 1893, the Hurtigruten is a daily a Hurtigruten ship for an overnight The three-story hotel has been passenger and freight shipping service along passage to Alesund. The Hurtigruten line completely restored, and today each I Norway’s western coastline between Bergen and was founded to link remote communities individually decorated room carries the Kirkenes, on the country’s northeastern border along Norway’s long western coastline name of one of its famous occupants. with Russia. Hurtigruten has recently gone up- with a passenger service as well as freight Almost all of the accommodations have market with the addition of more-luxurious new and mail deliveries. Recently these ships four-poster beds; none has a television or ships. (There are 14 in total.) I decided to travel have been upgraded, and they are now telephone, since the idea is to recreate the overnight from Bergen to Alesund. Boarding at the popular with foreign visitors (see sidebar). gentle rhythms of 19th-century leisure. terminal was efficient and cordial. Our ship — the Alesund is a snug little port of art nouveau Our room was decorated with heavy 16,000-ton, 822-passenger MS Trollfjord — had buildings — much of the old town burnt wallpaper, swagged damask curtains, Expedition Suites with picture windows, double down in 1904 — approximately 260 miles wood-framed armchairs and a chest beds and private balconies. During the high summer months, however, these are reserved north of Bergen, which was long known of drawers; the small bath provided a for people on a longer cruise, the most popular as the salt cod capital of the world. Today, roomy stall shower and Victorian fixtures. of which is the 12-day Classic Roundtrip Voyage people go to Alesund because it is the Overall, it was quite comfortable, but we from Bergen to Kirkenes. (Standard Cabins offer gateway to Norway’s most spectacular preferred to relax in the spacious main a single large porthole, twin beds and a small bath fjord district. lounge. Dinner was served by waitresses with stall shower.) Our fellow passengers were a Arriving early in the morning, we wearing traditional Norwegian dress, mixture of people who’d signed up for a longer picked up a rental car and headed to the and we thoroughly enjoyed a simple but cruise, Norwegians using the ship as transit and 27-room Hotel Union Øye via ferries from delicious meal of scallop chowder and short-haul travelers like ourselves. We dined in Solavågen to Festøya and then Sæbø to roast lamb. Afterwards in the lounge, one the luxury restaurant that night, and the food was Urke, a tranquil 2½ hour journey. (Direct of the waitresses recounted the history surprisingly good; breakfast the next morning boat transfers to the hotel are also offered of the hotel and its legends while guests was excellent. Our brief passage was expensive, but the longer cruises offer much better value by 62°NORD, a local travel agency that also examined such curiosities as the queen of for the money. The experience was enjoyable, arranges a variety of adventures, includ- Holland’s walking stick and one of Karen but Hurtigruten cannot be compared with ing a sea wildlife safari.) Set back from Blixen’s hiking boots. A stay at the Hotel traditional luxury cruises along the Norwegian the long, narrow Hjørundfjord, the Hotel Union Øye is not just an experience of coastline, such as those offered by companies like Silversea. hurtigruten.us Hotel Union Øye exterior; bedroom; waterfront; and ferry on the Hjørundfjord

/ EXTERIOR: © 62°NORD / ROOM AND DOCK PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER / HJØRUNDFJORD: © JUERGEN SCHONNOP/ALAMY FEBRUARY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Suite at the Storfjord Hotel; evening view of the Storfjord / ROOM: © 62°NORD / FJORD: © ALEXANDERCHER/ISTOCK

magnificent scenery, but also a sepia- the ferry to Geiranger, a magical hour- at the Hotel Union Geiranger, we drove toned journey into the past. long journey along the Geirangerfjord, north and followed the scenic road 650 a UNESCO World Heritage site. We had to the Storfjord Hotel in Skodje. booked this passage in advance, since it This 23-room property overlooking its SKODJE is extremely popular during the summer namesake fjord and the Sunnmøre Alps ollowing an excellent breakfast the months. The trip takes in the Knivsflå first opened in 2006 and was completely Ffollowing morning, we drove south waterfalls and also passes close to the renovated in 2013. Inspired by traditional through the Norangsdal valley to the Brudesløret (“Bridal Veil”) falls. After a Norwegian farm architecture, it has log little town of Hellesylt. There we caught lunch of roast salmon with scallion pasta walls and a turf roof. We had reserved a fjord-view Superior Deluxe Double room with a private balcony, which came with a HOTELS AT A GLANCE king-size four-poster bed, parquet floors and a sitting area. Wool throws and vases The Thief A91 of wildflowers lent the room a homey LIKE The contemporary art in the public spaces; the rooftop bar (summer only); the excellent breakfast buffet. DISLIKE The location isn’t ideal, and, for the money, the rooms are small. GOOD TO KNOW The food stalls on touch. The bright bath was equipped with the waterfront near the hotel are great for a light lunch on a sunny day. Deluxe Room, $400; Junior Suite, $640. a claw-foot tub and a separate shower. Landgangen 1, Oslo. Tel. (47) 24-00-40-00. thethief.com A four-course dinner is offered daily, Hotel Continental A94 and the changing menu relies on local LIKE Spacious, comfortable, attractively decorated rooms; the fine breakfast buffet; the central location. produce. We began with a salad of tiny, DISLIKE Dining room staff talking over the heads of guests as though they were not there. GOOD TO KNOW The sweet local shrimp; followed by a cod Theatercaféen, the beautiful art nouveau café at the hotel, serves excellent light meals. Deluxe Room, $520; Junior steak in herb sauce; a selection of excel- Suite, $700. Stortingsgaten 24/26, Oslo. Tel. (47) 22-82-40-00. hotelcontinental.no lent local cheeses; and crème caramel Solstrand Hotel & Bad A95 with blueberries. Our only regret about LIKE The magnificent location; the friendly and accommodating staff; the splendid spa. DISLIKE Dining hours are our stay was that we’d booked for just a rather brief, and transfers to ferry or bus station are not included in the room rate. GOOD TO KNOW The front desk single night. of the hotel has maps for three self-guided hiking expeditions. Kayaks can also be rented. Executive Room, $250; Southwest-facing Deluxe Room, $340. Solstrandveien 200, Os. Tel. (47) 56-57-11-00. solstrand.com ALESUND Hotel Union Øye A94 LIKE The spectacular setting; the strong sense of history. DISLIKE Noise travels easily in this vintage wooden eturning to Alesund, we checked building. GOOD TO KNOW In season, there is a chartered boat service from Alesund to Øye available through R into the 47-room Hotel Brosundet, 62°NORD. Double Room, $180. Norangsfjorden. Tel. (47) 70-06-21-00. unionoye.no a former fish-packing plant overlooking Storfjord Hotel A92 the Brosundet canal. This successful LIKE The experience of rustic Norwegian-style luxury. DISLIKE Not having had the time to go helicopter sight- conversion is another example of the seeing. GOOD TO KNOW This hotel is also a winter destination, since the nearby Stranda ski resort is often named work of Oslo’s award-winning Snøhetta as the best in Northern Europe. Deluxe Double, $240; Junior Suite, $400. Øvre Glomset, Skodje. Tel. (47) 70-27-49-22. architectural studio. The guest rooms storfjordhotel.com derive their character from the huge Hotel Brosundet A90 exposed wooden beams of the original LIKE Charming staff; the excellent restaurant. DISLIKE Rooms are relatively small. GOOD TO KNOW Anyone building and come with oak parquet looking for a unique experience might want to book Room 47, which is in the converted Molja Lighthouse, a 15-minute floors and stylish contemporary furni- walk from the hotel. Double Room with Sea View, $200. Apotekergata 5, Alesund. Tel. (47) 70-11-45-00. brosundet.no ture. Baths are separated from the preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added toThe Andrew Harper Collection. main living area by frosted glass and A Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information. Det Hanseatiske Hotel (87) was not up to the required standard. provide soaking tubs and rainfall showers.

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2017 Alesund / © SERGEY BOGOMYAKO/ADOBE FAVORITE NORWEGIAN RESTAURANTS: OSLO, BERGEN AND ALESUND

The rise of a new generation of young chefs is making Norway an exciting destina- tion for food lovers. Seafood features prominently on their menus.

Maaemo One of only two Michelin three-star restaurants in Scandinavia, this minimalist place is the most sought-after table in Norway and must be booked months in advance. The menu evolves constantly, but chef Esben Holmboe Bang has a reverence for Norwegian nature that is displayed on his tasting menu in dishes such as langous- tine glazed with pickled spruce juice, cod with aquavit jelly, charred scallops and butter-fat sauce, and fried rye-bread cream with mead gelée. The occasional dish can be a challenge, however — anyone for porridge with reindeer heart and butter? Schweigaards Gate 15b, Oslo. Tel. (47) 22-17-99-69.

Kontrast After working at Quique Dacosta and Martín Berasategui in Spain, young chef Mikael Svensson returned to Scandinavia and won a Michelin star this year for his sleek restaurant near the Mathallen, Oslo’s trendy food market. His tasting menus change regularly, but a superb summertime dinner included scallops with peas and horseradish, brown-crab pudding, and chanterelles with miso. Maridalsveien 15e, Oslo. Tel. (47) 21-60-01-01.

Arakataka Hotel Brosundet Standard Double Room / © 62°NORD For a tamer and more affordable experience of New Nordic cooking, this center- city tavern is ideal for a casual meal. Try small plates like spaghetti with bleak-fish Since Double Rooms are small, I advise roe and melted butter; reindeer tartare with beets and tarragon; and basmati rice booking a Junior Suite with Sea View. with apple and caramel. Mariboes Gate 7, Oslo. Tel. (47) 23-32-83-00. The hotel’s Restaurant MAKI — which features contemporary Norwegian cook- Lysverket ing with an emphasis on seafood — is Located in a loft-like space in Bergen’s museum district, this candlelit bistro has extremely popular, so it is essential to been a hit ever since chef Christopher Haatuft returned home after stints at Alinea reserve a table. After dinner, you might in Chicago and Per Se in New York to cook what he calls ‘neo-fjordic’ cuisine. This want to stop by the bar to try some Norwe- runs to dishes like roasted scallops with leeks and beets. Rasmus Meyers Allé 9, gian aquavit or new local digestif Marka, a Bergen. Tel. (47) 55-60-31-00. bracing concoction made from dandelion, bog myrtle and angelica root. Restaurant MAKI Alesund itself is an attractive place Located inside the Hotel Brosundet and overlooking the harbor, this attractive bistro with a population of 45,000 inhabitants. with an open kitchen is the most popular table in town. The tasting menu evolves The town has a number of museums, regularly but stars freshly landed cod, halibut, monkfish, scallops and shrimp. notably The Fisheries Museum, which Desserts run to waffles with Norwegian brown-cheese ice cream.Apotekergata 5, explains the history of the salt-cod Alesund. Tel. (47) 70-11-45-00. trade; The Art Nouveau Centre; and the

Aalesunds Museum. The latter is devoted Norwegian brown-crab pudding at Kontrast; and spaghetti with bleak-fish roe atArakataka / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER to the history of the town and includes fascinating exhibits about life during the Nazi occupation, plus a tiny submarine in which some locals crossed the Atlantic to land on a beach near Boston! The only consolation at the end of our memorable trip was that we had visited barely a third of Norway. So, we hope to have future occasions on which to explore other areas of this spectacular and exceptionally hospitable country. H

FEBRUARY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, FOOD HALLS All the News From New York City

Lap pool at the Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown / © CHRISTIAN HORAN

t is said that nothing on Earth can former rail yard is being transformed staircase, sets the stylish tone for the achieve a state of perpetual motion. into the largest private real estate project other areas in the hotel. Those committed IBut I sometimes wonder if New York in the United States and the biggest in to exercise regimes will be able to pursue doesn’t disprove the assertion. Each New York since Rockefeller Center was their goals in the 6,000-square-foot time I return, the city has grown and built in the 1930s. Called Hudson Yards, fitness center. And for water sprites, there evolved. In the past year New York it will encompass 4,000 residences, is a 75-foot lap pool. The spa will feature received almost 60 million visitors, and 100 shops, 14 acres of open space and a the skincare products of Switzerland’s Broadway enjoyed its best season ever number of major corporate headquarters Dr Burgener — here making their U.S. in 2015-2016 with grosses of $1.3 billion — Coach and L’Oreal USA have already debut — and exclusive facial treatments and audiences of 13.3 million. And then moved in, and Time Warner, CNN, Turner by Hungary’s Omorovicza. Star chef there is the constant physical change. Broadcasting, Warner Bros. and financial Wolfgang Puck brings steakhouse CUT Despite the center of the city being a giant BlackRock will be joining them. to the hotel, with highlights of the menu relatively small island of just 22 square Helping to spur this development was the including choice wagyu beef. The hotel miles, the rate of development has soared. extension of the 7 Flushing subway line. offers a full complement of business Downtown, work continues at the World Elsewhere, the Second Avenue subway, services as well as a dedicated business Trade Center, while on the West Side a a dream project since the 1920s, saw the center. And the tower also houses 157 Four debut of the first section, covering from Seasons Private Residences, from one to View from a Gotham Suite with Terrace at Four Seasons 96th to 63rd Street. five bedrooms with complete access to Hotel New York Downtown / © CHRISTIAN HORAN all of the hotel’s facilities. Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown ith the surge of visitors have come Room at The Whitby Hotel / © SIMON BROWN Wnew additions to the ranks of high- end hotels and restaurants. Thanks to a choice location on East 57th Street and stunning architecture by I.M. Pei, the Four Seasons Hotel New York has long been a favorite with Harper subscribers. Now, the Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown has opened on Barclay Street at the border of Tribeca and the Financial District, taking up the first 24 floors of an 82-story tower designed by noted architect Robert A. M. Stern. The 189 The Whitby Hotel rooms and suites range in size from 400 ver the years, London-based Firmdale to 2,400 square feet. Especially appealing OHotels has captivated me with its are the Gotham Suites with Terrace, with collection of imaginative properties. their own outdoor spaces and fabulous Distinctive design, the work of co-owner downtown views. Kit Kemp, gives each hotel its unique The two-story lobby, with its personality. In 2009, when the company travertine marble flooring and suspended opened its first overseas venture, the

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2017 Eataly; and Chelsea Market / EATALY: © EVAN JOSEPH / CHELSEA MARKET: © COLLIN MILLER 86-room Crosby Street Hotel in New York’s SoHo, I was impressed anew. This established favorite of many Harper subscribers will be shortly joined by a sibling. With 86 rooms and suites (some with terraces and many with floor- to-ceiling windows), The Whitby Hotel will be located on West 56th Street, just off of Fifth Avenue. Adding to its appeal will be a guest courtyard and a private screening room.

Bedroom at The Beekman / © BJORN WALLANDER FABULOUS FOOD HALLS

ew Yorkers love their markets, whether the convenience store on the corner, the local supermarket or None of the more gourmet spots such as E.A.T. on the Upper East Side or Zabar’s on the Upper West Side. Lately, a number of notable food halls have added greatly to the available options.

Chelsea Market In a far-west stretch of Chelsea that was on no one’s list of desirable destinations, the Chelsea Market is part of a larger complex in a refurbished building that houses a food court, shops, offices and television studios. Culinary stores predominate, with choices including Amy’s Bread for an impressive array of fine loaves; Bowery Kitchen Supplies, with its appealing selection of cookware; Chelsea Market Baskets, with top-rate food products from around the world; Li-Lac Chocolates, a local New York favorite; Lucy’s Whey for artisanal cheeses and sandwiches; and many more. 75 Ninth Avenue.

Eataly For those who love Italian food, this is a one-stop dream come true. Originating in Italy in 2007, the first New York shop opened in 2010 with the participation of chef Mario Batali and his partner Joe Bastianich. The Beekman The selection of products may be daunting, but it’s a pleasure just to stroll around seeing what’s on offer, or lthough Thompson Hotels enjoys a what may inspire an idea for dinner. Olive oils, cheeses, breads, meats, pastas and produce — I come every Agood reputation, I have yet to find fall for my annual porcini mushroom fix — are here in abundance. And you can always have a bite to eat or a a property to recommend to Hideaway full meal at one of the many attractive dining venues. 200 Fifth Avenue. Report readers. However, the recently opened Beekman has certainly caught Gotham West Market Further proof that there are few bad neighborhoods left in New York, this small, lively my eye. A block from City Hall and a five- food court opened in late 2013 on the far west of Midtown, a former dead zone. I especially love this place for minute stroll to the World Trade Center, the variety of the outlets. I make a point of going to the Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop to get a bowl of noodles made the 287-room property is situated on by the outstanding Mr. Orkin, who against all odds opened a ramen shop in Tokyo that many consider the a relatively quiet side street in what is best in that city. Among the other dining options are El Colmado for excellent tapas; Choza Taqueria for an intriguing choice of tacos; The Cannibal for house-made charcuterie and cured meats; and Uma Temakeria otherwise a bustling area of downtown. for sushi hand rolls. 600 11th Avenue. When the building opened in the 1880s, the soaring nine-story atrium was Grand Central Market Located on the east side of Grand Central Station, this bustling food hall is home a sensation. Topped with a pyramidal to some of my favorite purveyors, all in one convenient location. New York’s best cheesemonger, Murray’s skylight, this dramatic feature now Cheese, has an outpost here. I also visit Li-Lac Chocolates for beautiful confections; Eli Zabar’s Bread & provides a light-washed focal point for Pastry for fine baked goods; Pescatore Seafood Company for impeccable fish; and Oren’s Daily Roast for their the hotel. Martin Brudnizki, the British excellent coffee.89 East 42nd Street (through Grand Central Terminal, with an entrance on Lexington Avenue). architect who designed London’s famed The Ivy and Le Caprice restaurants, Great Northern Food Hall Taking over an underutilized but beautiful waiting room in Grand Central Station, directed the interior work. Striking details Danish entrepreneur and restaurateur Claus Meyer (one of the founders of the celebrated restaurant noma) abound, from the mosaic floors in the has brought an astonishing array of Nordic fare to New York. Here you will find wonderful stalls, each with lobby, to original leaded-glass windows, a specialty such as sandwiches, baked goods and more. I love Open Rye’s take on smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches), which are a Nordic staple, here using a flavorful rye as the base with topping options that might to glowing wood paneling. include beef tartare with chive mayonnaise or thin slices of pork belly. You’ll also find hearty breads and Rooms offer high ceilings, large fabulous cinnamon swirls — kanelsnurrer — at Meyers Bageri, granola at Almanak and healthy porridges at windows, custom-made armoires and an the Grain Bar. 89 Vanderbilt Avenue. eclectic mix of modern art, plus spacious marble baths. The hotel’s two restaurants The Plaza Food Hall Perhaps because it’s located on the concourse (lower) level of The Plaza hotel, this — one under the direction of star chef wonderful collection of food shops remains off the radar. But now you know. Here you’ll find, in the hand- Tom Colicchio, the other by restaurateur some Jeffrey Beers-designed space, a compilation of high-end outlets such as Epicerie Boulud, with Daniel Keith McNally of Balthazar and Minetta Boulud’s breads and pastries as well as lighter savories; the OLMA Caviar Boutique & Bar; FP Patisserie for Tavern fame — have achieved instant chocolates and desserts; the Sabi Sushi bar; and much more. In addition, chef Todd English operates a food popularity and acclaim. H hall within the food hall, with its own selection of eating options. Fifth Avenue at Central Park South.

FEBRUARY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 FOODIE CAPITAL OF THE WORLD Sullivan County foie gras with chartreuse, pistachios and dried cranberries; and a main of Berkshire pork tenderloin with New York Restaurant Update beer-braised pork cheek, red cabbage and candied sunflower seeds. The invit- ew York sees new restaurants open — and close — with astonishing frequency. ing front-bar area serves food rooted in NHowever, in the past few years there has been a relative paucity of newcom- Kreuther’s native Alsace. This is a most ers likely to appeal to Harper subscribers. The primary causes for this have been welcome, sophisticated addition to the economic turbulence and uncertainty, with restaurateurs and chefs hedging their New York dining scene. 41 West 42nd bets. To be sure, new establishments have often offered inventive menus, but in Street. Tel. (212) 257-5826. smaller spaces with shock-wave noise levels. This started to change last year when what the restaurant industry calls “fine-dining” establishments began to return. Günter Seeger NY When chefs well-established in one city Augustine make the move to another, success is Keith McNally has proven to be one not guaranteed — especially if the city of the most prescient dining impresa- to which they relocate is New York. rios in New York. With almost uncanny Günter Seeger has long been a star in the instinct, he has sensed the potential in Atlanta restaurant world. His new space previously obscure locations. This, his in Manhattan is minimalist, with uncar- newest venture, marks two firsts — his peted floors and white brick walls, and it first restaurant in the Financial District has just earned a Michelin star in 2017’s and his first restaurant in a hotel, in this guide. Seeger is an exciting cook, prepar- case The Beekman. Augustine embodies ing such dishes as scallop quenelles with the aesthetic of long-time McNally collabo- Duck with cherries at Le Coucou / © CORRY ARNOLD sea urchin sauce and purple potato chips, rators Richard Lewis and Ian McPheely, and rabbit loin with savoy cabbage and who have given it brown banquettes, have given new life to French cooking in crispy bacon. The menu changes daily, art nouveau mirrors, pastel tiles and a the city. Masterminded by Stephen Starr, with two prix fixe options.641 Hudson coffered ceiling. Look for rustic French the space could be a Parisian brasserie. Street. Tel (646) 657-0045. dishes such as salt-baked oysters, cheese And in fact, Le Coucou chef Daniel Rose soufflé, and sea urchin spaghettini. 5 made a Michelin mark in Paris at highly Fowler & Wells Beekman Street. Tel. (212) 375-0010. regarded Spring. Here in New York, he This place joins Augustine in the new and his crew wear the high, white toques Beekman hotel. (The name derives from Bâtard you’d expect to see in France. A typical two phrenologists who practiced in the Drew Nieporent, a smart and perceptive meal might begin with a celery remoulade building.) This is Tom Colicchio’s first restaurateur of great influence, has been with smoked salmon, and move on to pike restaurant in six years, and it has been operating in this space since he opened quenelles in a lobster sauce, followed by worth the wait. The space is opulent with Montrachet 30 years ago. The kitchen is a rack of lamb with eggplant and stuffed banquettes, tiled floors, stained glass now under the direction of Markus Glock- tomatoes. 138 Lafayette Street. Tel. (212) and glowing chandeliers. With executive er from Vienna. His cooking is precise, and 271-4252. chef Bryan Hunt, Colicchio presents a the presentation is almost Japanese in its menu of contemporary American cook- elegance and understatement. Look for Gabriel Kreuther ing with some nods to the past such as such starters as the barbecued sturgeon I have long admired the talents of Gabriel a starter of oysters Rockefeller; and a with buckwheat blinis and smoked crème Kreuther, the opening chef at The Modern, classic dry-aged sirloin “Rossini” with fraîche. Among the mains, the Amish Danny Meyer’s restaurant in New York’s foie gras, porcini mushrooms, Madeira chicken comes with a mushroom-potato Museum of Modern Art. Kreuther depart- and delicata squash. 5 Beekman Street. roulade, charred lettuce and a rich truffle ed a couple of years ago to open his own Tel. (212) 658-1848. sauce. The service is exemplary. 239 West place on West 42nd Street, across from Broadway. Tel. (212) 219-2777. Bryant Park. What a pleasure to enter Lincoln Ristorante a restaurant and not be assaulted by a One of the perennial catches of Lincoln Le Coucou deafening blast of music and the voices Center is the lack of restaurants to The era is long past when most of the of diners amplified by unrelentingly hard match the caliber of the setting and preeminent restaurants in New York were surfaces. Instead, we found sanctuary in the performances, especially since the French. Italian cuisine was the flavor of an elegant, high-ceilinged spot with wood closure of Picholine. Lincoln Ristorante the 1990s, while Asian establishments accents, subdued colors and a profes- changed that when it opened as part of a dominated the first decade of the new sional staff. Kreuther has lost nothing in renovation of the entire complex. Ideally century. So the arrival of Le Coucou, and his move. Highlights on the menu include located steps away from the main plaza, the highly favorable response it received, a starter of Gewürztraminer-poached this handsome glass pavilion contains

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2017 a marble bar, a glass-enclosed wine endive, red beets, juniper and balsamic tower and cream-colored faux-leather vinegar; pastas such as ravioli bigusto, chairs. Chef Jonathan Benno has had a faro-flour pasta with roasted squash, UNION SQUARE CAFE stints with Tom Colicchio at Craft, with fonduta, sage, Amaretti cookies and brown Thomas Keller at The French Laundry butter; and main courses like bistecca in REBORN and as chef de cuisine at Keller’s Per Se padella, which is beef sirloin with honey- hen Danny Meyer opened the Union Square in Manhattan. The cooking is Italian, crisp apple, celery root, cipollini onions, W Cafe in 1985, he probably did not foresee with imaginative starters like animelle di frisée and horseradish. Lincoln Center, 142 how impactful it would be in the world of New vitello al marsala, or veal sweetbreads with West 65th Street. Tel. (212) 359-6500. H York dining, and in the restaurant world beyond. Set in a quirky, multilevel, multi-area space just off Union Square — which back in the 1980s was a rather questionable area — the café struck a Asian Goes Haute Cuisine perfect balance between providing great food and not taking itself too seriously. Waiters were ew York has come to love Asian food. I remember the times when you could pretty decked out in playful, color-striped Brooks Nmuch count the number of sushi places on one hand, but now every grocery store Brothers shirts, the walls were arrayed with original art, much of it the work of Meyer’s uncle, and corner market in the city offers sushi to go. And since David Chang opened his and the menu offered a flavorful take on Italian Momofuku Noodle Bar in 2004, noodles of all sort, especially Japanese ramen, have cuisine, being both inventive and respectful of become the object of almost cult-like interest. For the most part, the places purvey- tradition. Union Square Cafe enjoyed enormous ing Asian foods have been relatively modest in size and scope, Chang’s restaurant, success, but a proposed tripling of the rent led found in the East Village, being a perfect example. But that has changed in the past Meyer to close it in December 2015 to much year or so, with the opening of ambitious upscale places. unhappiness. (The irony was that the café itself had spurred the transformation of Union Square La Chine from dodgy to desirable.) Few of the city’s Chinese restaurants have But there is a happy ending: Union Square fallen into the “fine dining” category, with Cafe reopened this past December in a new home a couple of exceptions such as Shun Lee just a few blocks away, at East 19th Street and Palace on the East Side and an old favorite Park Avenue South. Celebrated designer David Rockwell took full advantage of this new space, of mine, Chin Chin, which was forced to with its soaring ceilings. The bar is 12 seats, just close due to a punishing rent hike in 2014. the same as before, much of the art from the Now, I would add La Chine to the list. After former location — reframed — adorns the walls Chinese investors bought the Waldorf and executive chef Carmen Quagliata is back at Astoria New York in 2015, I wondered if Tempura squid and kamo eggplant at Tempura Matsui the stove with dishes such as fritto misto, ricotta they would open a Chinese restaurant. gnocchi with a tomato-basil passatina (purée) and Here it is, in a space once occupied by nous casing of fried batter, looked like Pecorino Romano cheese, and roasted pork rack Oscar’s — a loss not mourned. The food filigreed jewelry. 222 East 39th Street. with shell beans and fennel-apple mostarda. And is imaginative and well-presented, with Tel. (212) 986-8885. don’t neglect the USC Burger, which is one of noteworthy dishes such as raw seafood the best in the United States. 101 East 19th Street. appetizers, crispy Spanish mackerel, Tapestry Tel. (212) 243-4020. Sichuan chicken with cashews, and beef Indian food has never gained much promi- tenderloin in a black-pepper glaze. 540 nence in New York. An exception is Dawat, Lexington Avenue. Tel. (212) 872-4913. the driving force behind which has been actress and acclaimed cookbook author Tempura Matsui Madhur Jaffrey. I also admired the cook- New York’s appetite for sushi is insa- ing of Suvir Saran at Devi, the first Indian tiable. But I confess that I also have a restaurant in the United States to earn passion for tempura. Opened in mid-2015, a Michelin star. Saran’s latest venture is Tempura Matsui is the first place in the Tapestry in Greenwich Village. There he city to serve a tempura omakase tasting explores the traditions of other countries menu. Tempura master Masoa Matsui while keeping the spicing rooted in India. came out of retirement to debut the The results are delicious, with dishes 19-seat restaurant, a serene temple to his such as paneer, sultanas and almond craft. (Sadly, Matsui died in early 2016; croquettes with frisée, grilled fig salad and happily, his well-trained disciples carry tamarind chutney; and coconut-cashew on.) The three menu options include a arancini with green curry, tomato chutney variety of beautifully prepared tempura and green bean stir-fry. 60 Greenwich dishes, which, enwrapped in the diapha- Avenue. Tel. (212) 373-8900. H © EMILY ANDREW/COURTESY OF ROCKWELL GROUP OF ANDREW/COURTESY EMILY © /

FEBRUARY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD TIME TRAVEL

he world’s great museums provide one of Tthe enduring pleasures of travel. However, the scale of their holdings can be intimidating. And nowadays the most celebrated institutions, such as the Louvre or the Uffizi, are often so crowded that the experience is severely compromised. Increasingly, I tend to seek out smaller museums, especially those on which the tourist hordes are unlikely to descend. One of my favorites is the Sir John Soane’s Museum

Food as art: cod with quinoa and pickled cabbage at Restaurant MAKI, Alesund / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER in London, which saw the completion of a seven-year restoration project last September. Soane was a neoclassical architect who rose New and Noteworthy from humble origins as a bricklayer to become Professor of Architecture at the Royal Academy Four Seasons in the Maldives of Arts and the designer of the Bank of England. I have long recommended the Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa, located The museum comprises three houses (Nos. around 10 miles northeast of the international airport at Malé. The group also offers 12, 13 and 14) in Lincoln’s Inn Fields, located at the western edge of the City of London’s a second property at Landaa Giraavaru, 90 miles north of Malé (a 30-minute transfer financial district. Soane himself lived in No. by seaplane), and the Four Seasons Explorer, a three-deck catamaran that cruises 13, surrounded by an astonishing private between the two resorts. Last December, Maldives Private Island at Voavah became collection. This still includes classical bronzes, the latest addition to the Four Seasons portfolio. The five-acre, seven-bedroom exclu- mosaics and vases; paintings by Canaletto, sive hideaway comes with its own 62-foot motor yacht, plus a private dive center and Watteau, Hogarth, Turner and Reynolds; spa. From June to November, the surrounding waters are one of the best places in drawings by Piranesi, Wren and Robert Adam; the world to swim with manta rays. and, improbably, the sarcophagus of Egyptian pharaoh Seti I. Soane pursued a lifelong feud Capella Comes to Shanghai with his son George, whom he considered to Most of Shanghai’s best hotels are clustered along the Bund, the city’s famous be a hopeless wastrel, and left his houses waterfront, or just across the Huangpu River in Pudong. However, March will see the to the nation to prevent him from inheriting opening of Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li in the Xuhui District, a cultural preserva- them. George’s loss is our gain. Soane died in tion zone formerly part of the French Concession. This all-villa resort will be housed 1837 at the age of 83, with the terms of his will within a number of shikumen buildings. Usually, shikumens are two- or three-story stipulating that his properties be preserved in their original state. Today they form an structures that resemble Western terrace houses or townhouses, distinguished by enthralling time capsule. Best of all, the number high brick walls enclosing a narrow front yard. Those on the Jian Ye Li estate were of visitors is restricted to 90 at any one time. built in the 1930s for the French real estate company Foncière et Immobilière de Chine. In addition to the 55 villas (and 40 residences), the resort will offer a French brasserie, a library, an Auriga spa and a retail gallery of niche brands.

New Spa at Belize Favorite I have recently updated two of my personal travel I’ve long had a soft spot for Victoria House on Ambergris Caye. True, the Casita guides, Italy and Spain, Portugal & Mediterranean, accommodations are average — I only recommend the Infinity Suites, the Rainforest which feature my hotel recommendations, personal Suite and the deluxe units in three beachfront villas — and because of the closeness notebooks, touring maps and favorite restaurants. of the Belize Barrier Reef, the shoreline is choked with turtlegrass. But the resort’s Books are available at andrewharper.com/store/ gardens are so tranquil, the view of the Caribbean is so hypnotic and the staff are harper-collection. so friendly that I have returned on numerous occasions. What the place lacked most conspicuously was a spa. Now this omission has been remedied with the recent debut of a 3,500-square-foot facility. Three of the rooms have private patios for outdoor massages, and the menu features 36 different treatments, which employ Belizean essential oils and natural products whenever possible.

The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2017 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu