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Norway Norway: Oslo, Bergen and the Fjords THIS MONTH FEBRUARY 2017 | Our 39th Year AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES © MMUENZL/ADOBE © / PICTURESQUE CITIES, SENSATIONAL SCENERY, STELLAR SEAFOOD COVER PHOTOGRAPH Seven Sisters Waterfall on Geirangerfjord, Norway Norway: Oslo, Bergen and the Fjords THIS MONTH orway is one of the most peaceful beginning of the oil boom in the 1970s, the A NORWEGIAN JOURNEY and hospitable countries in the Norwegians have developed a discerning On a two-week trip by car, train and ferry, Nworld. There are two primary taste for luxury and comfort, which is I visited the country’s two major cities and travel experiences: The first is a cruise complemented by the purity and simplic- then headed north to Alesund, the gateway to along its island-dotted, fjord-indented ity of Scandinavian design. Norway’s most spectacular fjord district. ..... 1-7 coastline. The second is the one that I We began our journey in Oslo, the Online: Traditional foods; Touring itinerary made last summer: a two-week mix of country’s capital and largest city, then land- and sea-based adventures. The trip traveled to Bergen by train, visited NEW YORK NEWS allowed us to take our time and to chat that city and the surrounding region, Hotel debuts, notable new restaurants and the with the friendly locals — almost all of continued north from Bergen to Alesund city’s passion for food halls. ...................... 8-11 whom speak perfect English — as well as via an overnight voyage on the famous Online: Ethnic food shops to get off the beaten track to view land- Hurtigruten shipping and cruise line and scapes of unique and unmarred beauty. then explored Alesund and its environs Find video and more photography of our trips at AndrewHarper.com/hideaway-report We also stayed in some well-run and by car and ship for several days. Though spectacularly located hotels and made this itinerary may sound ambitious, it is Andrew Harper travels anonymously and pays delicious discoveries while sampling very easy and comfortable to travel in full rate for all lodging, meals and related the inventive restaurant scene. Norway Norway since excellent roads, a small but travel expenses. Since the inception of is not only a very wealthy country — due impressive rail network and an excellent this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels to its massive oil reserves — but also an system of coastal steamers and ferries and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. extremely sophisticated one. Since the link the country together. Full-service travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. The Thief exterior; bedroom; and lounge Theatercaféen and Eik Annen Etage Restaurant; Deluxe Room, Hotel Continental; and Oslo Opera House / THIEF EXTERIOR: © JASON STRONG / THIEF ROOM & LOUNGE: © MATTIAS HAMREN / OPERA HOUSE: © NANISIMOVA/ISTOCK We traveled in mid-June, which is books in some 35 different languages. Occupying a modern building over- perhaps the ideal time of the year, since The other much-talked about neigh- looking a canal but set back from the the countryside is bright with wildflow- borhood revitalization scheme is Tjuvhol- waterfront, The Thief is a friendly, well- ers and the waterfalls are still powerful men, or Thief Island, so named because it run boutique property popular with the torrents fed by snowmelt, but the high- used to be a honky-tonk district frequent- city’s smart set as well as a weekend-away season crowds of July and August have ed by sailors (and later an execution destination for Norwegians and other yet to arrive. After September, many ground for thieves). Now it has been Scandinavians. On arrival, the welcome museums and other attractions reduce completely rebuilt and is home to both was friendly, and the hotel immediately their hours, and the transport systems the Astrup Fearnley Museum, a collec- established its arty credentials with a switch to a less-frequent service. tion of modern art housed in a striking canvas by Richard Price in the lobby, building designed by Renzo Piano, and art videos in the elevators and several OSLO the 118-room The Thief hotel. Warhols on the walls of the THIEF FOOD- ocated at the head of the Oslofjord, a Llong, craggy inlet in the southeast of the country, Oslo is an attractive green ALESUND 6 SKODJE NORWEGIAN NORWEGIAN city with a spectacular setting and splen- SEA 4 STORFJORD SEA did museums. You should plan to spend HJØRUNDFJORD ØYE at least four nights to sample all it has SÆBØ 5 GEIRANGER ALESUND SWEDEN to offer. Oslo is in the midst of a major HELLESYLT NORWAY FINLAND urban makeover that has adorned it GEIRANGERFJORD BERGEN with some striking modern architecture, y OSLO err notably the Oslo Opera House, which WEDEN COPENHAGEN has contributed to the transformation S of the Bjørvika, a formerly rundown 1 The Thief industrial district on the waterfront. SOGNEFJORD Hotel Continental Designed by Norwegian firm Snøhetta Hurtigruten F NÆRØYFJORD 2 Det Hanseatiske Hotel (architects of New York City’s National AURLANDSFJORD 3 Solstrand Hotel & Bad GUDVANGEN September 11 Memorial Museum Pavil- FLAM 4 Hotel Brosundet ion), this dramatic $700 million building 5 Hotel Union Øye of intersecting planes and sloping stone 2 VOSS 6 Storfjord Hotel surfaces has become the forerunner of BERGEN OS Bergen Line additional avant-garde projects. Other 3 BJØRNAFJORDEN cultural institutions now under construc- tion include a new National Gallery, a new museum devoted to the works of OSLO painter Edvard Munch and a new home NORWAY 1 for the Deichman Library, which contains 2 HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2017 Flåm Railway; and the Nærøyfjord BAR restaurant. There we enjoyed an and a contemporary annex, and it has excellent lunch of shellfish tartare with recently been renovated and completely scallops and pickled fennel, and butter- redecorated. The British firm RPW Design roasted turbot with baked Jerusalem found a way to respect the property’s artichokes. (The Thief also has a gastro- traditional aspects — for example, leaving nomic restaurant, Fru K, that serves its collection of Munch lithographs in the contemporary Norwegian cooking.) lobby — while making it more modern with Upstairs, our Deluxe Room came with streamlined furniture, stylish glass table a partial sea view through sliding glass lamps and earth-tone colors accented by doors that led to a small private balcony. acid-tone throw pillows. The hotel dates The interior contained contemporary to 1900 and is renowned locally for its furniture designed by a raft of well-known beautiful art nouveau Theatercaféen bar international designers including Tom and restaurant, which serves a delicious Dixon and Patricia Urquiola. Oak parquet comfort-food menu. floors, a gray-and-gold headboard by Although the Hotel Continental has B&B Italia, a down duvet and Norwegian- some superb suites with sea views, we made woolen blankets by Røros Tweed all settled for a good-value Deluxe Room, RAILWAY: © MORTENRAILWAY: RAKKE/COURTESY VISIT FLAM / FJORD: © BENTINGE/ISTOCK contributed to a mood that was agreeably which came with a sitting area, ample / serene. Additional amenities included closet space and a handsome bath with an espresso maker, a sound system with two sinks set in a black stone counter docking station and thick wool slippers. and a combined shower and tub. From MAGICAL NORWAY TOUR Overall, the room was well-lit and very an efficient concierge to the cheerful comfortable, if a little small. The white chambermaids, the staff were consis- ome of the best views of the Norwegian fjords marble bath with a separate tub and tently outstanding. We would definitely Sare to be had from the exceptionally well-run rainfall shower was well-designed, and stay here again on a future visit to Oslo. and coordinated “Norway in a nutshell” tour. the lighting was excellent throughout. The daylong trip costs about $160 per person Overall, The Thief is a very pleasant and involves three trains, a bus and a boat. The hotel, but I found it slightly puzzling that BERGEN program begins at Bergen station, where you it has been so lionized by the mainstream he Bergensbanen, a 310-mile rail board a Bergen Railway train to Voss. There you American travel magazines. Even for Tline connecting Olso and Bergen, is transfer to a bus and head down the stunning Stalheimskleiva road to Gudvangen, at the head Oslo, it is very expensive, and its location spectacularly scenic and one of the most of the Nærøyfjord. A sleek new cruiser then takes is slightly inconvenient for sightseeing. popular rail journeys in Europe. Tickets you up the Nærøyfjord — one of the narrowest We liked the 155-room Hotel Conti- need to be booked as far in advance as fjords in Norway — and down the Aurlandsfjord nental from the moment we arrived. possible, as they frequently sell out during to Flåm. From there, you take the Flåm Railway This handsome, family-owned hotel has a the summer. Since it is a seven-hour jour- up the mountain to Myrdal. The 12-mile journey central location and is within an easy walk ney, we went to Mathallen, Oslo’s indoor takes an hour and ascends over 2,625 feet. of the city’s main attractions. It comprises food market, to shop for a picnic before Finally, you take the express train from Myrdal an original Belle Epoque stone building the departure of our train at noon. There back to Bergen. It is a full and utterly magical day. norwaynutshell.com Bergen overview; grilled langoustine at Lysverket; the fish market; and harbor in the Bryggen neighborhood / BERGEN: © CN0RA/ADOBE / LYSVERKET: © LARS PETTER PETTERSEN / FISH MARKET & BRYGGEN PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER FEBRUARY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Solstrand Hotel & Bad exterior; Room 211; view of Bjørnafjorden from a guest room; and pool / EXTERIOR PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER / ROOMS: © BENT RENE SYNNEVAG / SPA: © EIRIK SOLHEIM we bought bread, smoked salmon, shrimp bath with a claw-foot soaking tub and a Norway.
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