Case of the Indigenous Textile Industry (Aso-Oke) in Nigeria

Anifat Oladipupo

WOMEN ENTREPRENEURSHIP AND ADAPTA- TION TO INDUSTRY TRANSFORMATION: THE CASE OF THE INDIGENOUS TEXTILE INDUSTRY (ASO-OKE) IN NIGERIA

Faculty of Management and Business Master’s Thesis February 2021 ABSTRACT

ANIFAT OLADIPUPO: Women entrepreneurship and adaptation to industry transformation: The case of the indigenous textile industry (ASO-OKE) in Nigeria Master’s Thesis Tampere University Leadership for Change (Sustainable Business Management) February 2021

This thesis fundamental objective is to examine indigenous women’s adaptation to industry transformation using Nigeria as a case study. The study is motivated by the gap in the knowledge of how women entrepreneurs in developing countries cope with industry transformation. It shed lights on unattended questions regarding the adaptability, challenges, and opportunities women entrepreneurs in developing countries perceived as they adapt their business processes to fit the requirements of a changing industry. The theoretical framework presents relevant theory on women entrepreneurship both in developing countries and Nigeria. Firstly, the theory of women entrepreneurship is broadly discussed, as well as the difficulties encountered by women entrepreneurs across the developing nations. Also, the entrepreneurial activities of women in Nigeria, the challenges, and opportunities they perceived in the course of doing their business are discussed. This study uses a qualitative approach with an inductive design. The empirical data were collected by conducting eleven in-depth interviews; the participants consist of women entrepreneurs in the indigenous textile (ASO-OKE) business, among which six (6) weavers, four (4) weavers and retailers, and one (1) retailer. The empirical findings suggest that the women entrepreneurs under study are going through an adaptation process due to a significant change in ASO-OKE designs, its usage, the consumers and that of the indigenous textile industry in general. Thus, their internal and external environments, as well as their personal motivational traits, play a significant role in their adaptation process. This implies that direct and indirect opportunities are perceived. In particular, new financial opportunities are the most notable as they enable the women to reinvest in new roles. While the challenges the women entrepreneurs face are similar to those identified in previous research, the present study shows that challenges such as deficiency or insufficiency access to proper education, training, and marketing problems are less relevant. However, new challenges such as lack of intellectual property rights protections are predominant in this case. This signifies a shift in the assumptions regarding challenges and opportunities for women entrepreneurs, and particularly among indigenous women entrepreneurs in most developing countries. The study also expands our understanding of the significance of gender on industry’s adaptation process. In this case, adaptation was facilitated by the availability of emotional support from immediate family. Finally, the study promotes and contributes to the preliminary, background, and existing knowledge on women entrepreneurship in indigenous industries as it provides new insights on how women entrepreneurs adapt their business, how they face new challenges, and how they explore new opportunities during industry transformation. Beyond these contributions, the study proposes a four- dimensional model that helps explain women's adaptation process in changing industries in developing countries.

Keywords: entrepreneurship, women entrepreneurs, adaptation, change and transformation, indigenous textile industry (ASO-OKE), challenges, opportunities

The originality of this thesis has been checked using the Turnitin OriginalityCheck service.

TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. INTRODUCTION ...... 1 1.1. Background ...... 3 1.2. Research Problem and Questions ...... 6 1.3. Research Aims and Objectives ...... 7 1.4. Research Scope ...... 8 1.5. Research Structure ...... 8 1.6. Concepts and Definitions ...... 10 2. THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK ...... 11 2.1. Women Entrepreneurship ...... 11 2.2. Challenges of Women Entrepreneurship ...... 13 2.2.1. Financial Resources ...... 14 2.2.2. Lack of Infrastructure ...... 15 2.2.3. Lack of Access to Education and Professional Training ...... 15 2.2.4. Marketing Problems ...... 16 2.2.5. Lack of Female Exemplary ...... 16 2.3. Women Entrepreneurship in Nigeria ...... 17 2.4. Opportunities and Challenges of Women Entrepreneurship in Nigeria 18 2.4.1. Finance Access ...... 19 2.4.2. Insufficient Training and Education ...... 20 2.4.3. Technological Access ...... 21 2.4.4. Access to Market ...... 21 3. METHODOLOGY ...... 24 3.1. Research Philosophy ...... 24 3.2. Research Approach ...... 24 3.2.1. Qualitative Versus Quantitative Research ...... 25 3.3. Data Collection and Generation ...... 25 3.3.1. Unstructured Interview ...... 26 3.3.2. Introduction to Interviewees ...... 26 3.3.3. Data Transcription ...... 29 3.4. Data Analysis and Interpretation ...... 30 3.5. Ethics & Data Analysis Limitation ...... 32 3.6. Case Study ...... 33 3.7. Production of ASO-OKE - Process and Tools ...... 34 3.8. ASO-OKE Types and Usage ...... 37 4. DATA ANALYSIS AND FINDINGS ...... 38 4.1. Trends and Transformation ...... 38 4.1.1. Change in Production Design ...... 38

4.1.2. Change in Usage ...... 40 4.2. Curtailments as a Result of Transformation ...... 41 4.2.1. Deficiency of Tangible and Intangible Resources ...... 41 4.2.2. Product Protection Unfairness ...... 43 4.2.3. Emotional and Psychological Disparity ...... 44 4.3. Direct and Indirect Prospects ...... 45 4.3.1. Personal and Individual Benefit ...... 45 4.3.2. Opportunity from Network ...... 47 4.4. Internal and External Adaptivity Support ...... 47 4.4.1. Individual Proactiveness ...... 48 4.4.2. Constant Training and Education ...... 49 4.5. Adaptation Model and Summary ...... 50 5. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION ...... 53 5.1. The Necessity of Adapting to Transformation ...... 54 5.2. Recognising Opportunities and Dealing with Transformational Challenges 55 5.3. Minor Shift in Assumption in the Previous Literature ...... 59 5.4. Summary and Study Contribution ...... 60 5.5. Limitation and Future Study Recommendation ...... 61 REFERENCES ...... 63 APPENDICES...... 71

List of Tables

Table 1. Interviewees information summary ...... 27 Table 2. Summary of Interviews conducted ...... 28 Table 3. Change in production design ...... 39 Table 4. Change in usage ...... 40 Table 5. Deficiency of Tangible and Intangible resources ...... 42 Table 6. Product Protection Unjust...... 43 Table 7. Emotional and psychological disparity...... 44 Table 8. Personal and Individual Benefit ...... 46 Table 9. Opportunity from Network ...... 47 Table 10. Individual Proactiveness ...... 48 Table 11. Constant Training and Education ...... 50

List of Figures

Figure 1. Thesis structure flow ...... 9 Figure 2. Challenges of Women Entrepreneurs in Nigeria ...... 19 Figure 3. Conceptual Framework ...... 23 Figure 4. Summary of Data Collection Process ...... 30 Figure 5. Data structure summary ...... 32 Figure 6. Transformational Adaptation Model of Women in ASO-OKE ...... 52

List of Abbreviations

ADB – African Development Bank AWEP – African Women Entrepreneurship program BBC – British Broadcasting Corporation CBN – Central Bank of Nigeria EU – European Union GEM – Global Entrepreneurship Monitor HND – Higher National Diploma IAPP – Integrated Apparel Park Program LSETF – Lagos State Employment Trust Fund NBS – National Bureau of Statistic NGO – Non-Governmental Organisation OAU – Obafemi Awolowo University OND – Ordinary Nation Diploma HND – Higher National Diploma SMEs – Small and Medium Enterprises

1. INTRODUCTION

McAdam (2013) described women entrepreneurship as a process and method in which women initiate a business, bring together all the necessary resources, agree to take all the risks involved, face any challenges the business entails, and generate employment sources for others, and manages the business independently. As Carmen Niethammer's (2013) report claimed, women empowerment through entrepreneurship has been given high priority in both developed and developing countries for several years. Therefore, it is no longer a question concerning the roles that women contribute to the global economy. Women entrepreneurs have already become an essential and indispensable contributor to the progress, evolution, and advancement of the global economy. As a result, their figure has been increased over time. Therefore, women have been acknowledged and recognised as essential for business and development (Carmen Niethammer, 2013).

In accordance and parallel with Brush et al. (2010), several studies across the global have acknowledged that, women owned enterprises remain one of the world quickest, rapid and fastest-growing entrepreneurial activities, which have been tremendously increasing rapidly. Substantially, the primary responsibility of women entrepreneurs, most remarkably in the economic prosperity and viable development has proved to be acknowledged for the past few decades in the whole world. Throughout the business world, women have become an indispensable, vital, and crucial movement in developed nations and have been recognised, acknowledged, and accepted across all sectors (Singh, 2017).

According to Successful Woman Entrepreneur (2020), women entrepreneurs, especially in developed countries, are more active, determined, and self-disciplined, which allows them to tackle difficult situations and overcome them in today's world. They have a strong determination that enables them to cope with all obstacles, difficulties, and responsibility. Managing, regulating, influencing, and implementing their skills to build something meaningful that change their household and communities' lives. Women entrepreneurs have repeatedly shown that they are obstinate and persistent in handling any barriers that come their way positively. They are much more optimistic, foresighted, and more powerful in their thoughts and views. Their involvement, participation, and significant contribution to the economic activities have contributed towards a social, collaborative, supportive, balanced, and more enjoyable working environment amongst women-led

enterprises. Personal growth and development are etched (Successful Woman Entrepreneur, 2020).

The traits, qualities, and responsibility of women entrepreneurship diverge around the world at various economic development stages. However, studies on women entrepreneurship have shown that the proportion of women-owned companies or businesses are much more anticipated to be comparatively and sufficiently higher in most developing countries than developed countries like the EU, the USA, and Canada (Naude, 2010). This has been customarily attributed to the simple fact that women encountered and confronted with sophisticated impediments when entering the labour market in emerging economies in developing countries. As a result, they are left with no other choice than becoming an entrepreneur as the only means for them to get out of joblessness and eradicate poverty (Naude, 2010). As stated in Siraje (2015) study, in several and numerous developing economies, women are currently and constantly setting up new businesses faster than their male counterparts, making a substantial contribution to unemployment reduction and economic growth sustainable development.

Furthermore, studies regarding women entrepreneurship have discovered extremely high percentages of women entrepreneurship. Yet, there are many instances where opportunities and incentives remain disadvantageous for women in developing countries to become entrepreneurs, even if they possess the skills and knowledge (Naude, 2010). The conventional manner in which some cultures in developing countries gazed at women as ordinary full housewives designated to serve up their household, the recent and the present generation of women have conquered all the undesirable parts of their lives and have demonstrated their worth within the society (Educba, 2020). Upon all of the significant culture change, these women are still baffled with various challenges ( such as the absence of access to financial resources, the absence of access to formal education and training, lack of infrastructures, gender-based discrimination, work-family dispute, difficulties in access market, and lack of good governance) to become entrepreneurship (Kikula, 2018) successfully.

According to the World Bank (2015), women entrepreneurship has been steadily increasing across developing countries, making a major contribution to their family incomes and increasing the number of domestic economies. Yet, these women are still confronted and challenged with numerous challenges, that restrict their knack and ability to expand their entrepreneurial and business activities. Businesses owned mainly by women in most developing nations are tremendously increasing, resulting in about eight to ten million small and medium-sized businesses (SMEs). While studies show the corresponding growth amount women-owned-businesses in developing countries, The World Bank (2015) also acknowledged enormous impediments that hinder the development and progress of their

businesses, as the absence of access to finance, stringent social restrictions, lack of formal education, among others.

However, most of the research and study carried out on women entrepreneurship predominantly in the developing countries focuses attention on the challenges confronted by women entrepreneurs. Therefore, this study examines the disparity by focusing its attention on women entrepreneurs and their adaptation to industry transformation. Furthermore, this research seeks to explain how women entrepreneurs go through this significant transformation in their business and the challenges and the opportunities perceived as they attempt to adapt to the change. The study focuses on the case of a locally produced or indigenous (weaving cloth) textile industry (ASO-OKE) in Nigeria, which is an important context for understanding how women entrepreneurs in developing countries overcome business challenges.

1.1. Background

In Nigeria, indigenous textile such as ASO-OKE fabric has been in existence for centuries in Yoruba lands and originated from the ancient Oyo State, where women have played and continue playing an important role in the sectors (Ikein, 2011). By the sixteen century, cotton was said to be the most important agricultural product among Nigerians. As a result, the Yoruba people, especially women, took that opportunity to engage themselves in the ASO-OKE production that uncovered the Yoruba cultural heritage (Ojo, 2007; Warren, 1996). During the pre-colonial era, Nigeria's South West region happened to be cultivating cotton in large quantities and had gotten acclaimed for its magnificent ASO-OKE fabric (Modupe & Olaosebikan, 2018). Remarkably, there was already an export business of locally made cotton items upon the Europeans' arrival in the northern part of Nigeria but, ASO-OKE production has been primarily for community consumption (Warren, 1996).

For centuries in Nigeria, particularly Yoruba women, they have been changing and transforming cotton and other raw materials into fabric production to supplement their household commitments. The extraordinary contributions of Yoruba women in the indigenous textile sector in Nigeria impacted the production and marketing success of ASO-OKE fabric at the national and international levels (Ikein, 2011). Consequently, women entrepreneurs in Nigeria shifted their focus in adjusting their skills to invest in the respective sector due to its growth in the international market. In the ASO-OKE fabric industry, women have been the main actors. They involved themselves throughout the production life cycle (from raw cotton to yarn, yarn to waving and waving to marketing). According to a survey conducted by Ikein (2011), women are the main dominant in ASO-OKE fabric manufacturing and marketing compared to their male counterparts. ASO-OKE fabric manufacturing has been acknowledged as essential to the South West people of Nigeria, particularly women, for almost three hundred 3

years, Ikein (2011) claimed. It has been based on the traditional tactics, processes, and procedures of production.

Additionally, the ASO-OKE fabric industry is vast and promoted domestic work for women in the Oyo State of Nigeria, which further passes from one generation to another. By considering its significance in the Nigerian culture, many women entrepreneurs took an interest in ASO-OKE production. They adopted the transformations, including advancements in the production process, innovation, economic changes, and other influencing factors in the indigenous fabric (ASO-OKE) production in Nigeria (Modupe & Olaosebikan, 2018). ASO- OKE has been commonly tied as a business for uneducated women. Still, most recently, many young and adult females who graduate from both university and polytechnic have discovered an appropriate livelihood in the ASO-OKE business. For example, thousands of traditional weavers across the Ibadan metropolitan area, including graduates from college, polytechnic, and university, have engaged themselves in the ASO-OKE business as millions of people from local and international have now patronising ASO-OKE fabrics for their various occasions.

Nigerian textile business magnificently based on the gendered practice in which both genders distributed their functionalities and areas of work, where they performed well to produce the prolific results. By concentrating on Oshewolo (2018) research, Yoruba and the people of Oyo State, Nigeria, are cultural and intensely involved in indigenous fabric (ASO- OKE) production and many other woven clothes. Primarily, women involved in the production of the indigenous fabric (ASO-OKE) that represented the culture of Africa in the western regions of Nigeria, but the boom of western culture in the fashion arena changed the entire game of cultural clothing in Nigeria, which reduced the position of women entrepreneurs in the respective region significantly in the textile (ASO-OKE) production.

The transformation and metamorphosis in the woven textile industry is critically evaluated with the example of ASO-OKE that is augmenting its scope with years and expanded over international platforms as the famous woven clothing pattern, which adopted from generations to generation in the Nigerian culture and set as the customary clothing in Yoruba, where the family should involve in the production of ASO-OKE other than farming once a life. The pigmentary and magnificence of indigenous fabric (ASO-OKE) enhanced Nigeria's economic space and demand on various occasions across the country. With this exposure, it became the major culture of Nigerian fabric that is delightful with colours. Other than that, the ASO-OKE raw material was banned from importing from another country by the Government to boost the respective clothing's domestic market (Diana, 2018).

In Nigeria, the textile industry has crucial importance in the cultural heritage communities where people belonged to heterogeneous cultures (Castonguay, 2009). Therefore, they value customs, traditions, cultures, clothing, housing styles, and attitude in 4

society due to their rituals and beliefs (Waddell, 2017). In this regard, the indigenous fabric (ASO-OKE) has remarkable recognition in Nigeria, especially the southwestern region that strongly emphasised the clothing ornamentation, including the designs of fabric, its process, and sewing. Consequently, women entrepreneurs in Nigeria shifted their focus in adjusting their skills to invest in the respective sector due to its growth lately. Contrarily, the traditional production process changed with the advanced innovation in the textile sector and the pressure for sustainable growth in developing nations. This reason became the factor of transformation in ASO-OKE production. Therefore, women considered this factor an opportunity to create an impressive impact on economic prosperity and inclined profitability. From the identification of revolution in the ASO-OKE production process, textile manufacturers and small business owners crucially concerned about the change and its complications in the business and economic development as a whole in Southwestern Nigeria.

The focus on the ASO-OKE, women, identified its worth in the traditional, social, and religious ceremonies, whereas the abundant use of respective clothing among men and women in Nigeria. Thus, women used ASO-OKE as a wrapper, blouse, head-tie, shawl, and strap while men used it as trouser, shirt, shoe, and cap for a special occasion such as naming ceremony and wedding. Another cultural influence of ASO-OKE is during the wedding as the wedding gift for the bride. It is considered a special gift that showed the dignity of another individual (Akanle, 2009). Conversely, Western culture's modern clothing diminished its role in the Nigerian culture in the late 20th century. Still, the expanded culture of the southwestern region and the high concentration of the Government on the advancement of the economic development improved the textile industry's demand in terms of the ASO-OKE clothing. Hence, many women entrepreneurs showed the spark in the respective sector to originate their demand to earn the sale and purchase's economic benefit. In this manner, ASO-OKE took a competitive position in the textile sector but with advanced processes and alterations in the market (Adegbite & Aderemi, 2011).

The study by Olutayo & Fadina (2011) claimed that producer in Africa adopted low- level technologies in the textile sector, which limited the production but with the modern implication and significant transformation, the whole setup of technologies and machines extended over the multiple sectors in Nigeria, including textile to develop the country's economy with the concentration on the involvement of women and man role in the economic progress. On the contrary, the condition of the women adaptiveness towards transformative practices changed with time and showed active contribution to the economic stability of the nation from multiple regions in the ASO-OKE fabric, which represented their culture and religious practices (Ajani, 2012)

Moreover, the use of social media tools among women are on-trend to run their business effectively especially Instagram, which boosted their market from Nigerian regions

to the other part of the world, additionally promoted the African culture in the world including U.K., Dubai, and other foreign states (Mamodu et al., 2019; Oladipo et al., 2020). Therefore, understanding the business of the hand-woven cloth (ASO-OKE) in Ibadan and how women adapt to the issues arising as a result of a change in all aspects, primarily in its production, functions, and types worthwhile. Moreover, the research emphasized identifying the present challenges women in the business of ASO-OKE in the Ibadan encounter and textile sector overall in Nigeria to propose the reflective approach that minimized the hitches for women entrepreneurs to explore the market and funding opportunities appropriately.

1.2. Research Problem and Questions

For the past decades, women entrepreneurship has been making a significant contribution towards stability, welfare among societies, and providing and improving economic opportunities across their countries (Ascher, 2012). As a result, most especially in the whole world of business, women have become an indispensable, vital, and crucial movement in which they have been recognised, acknowledged, and accepted across all sectors (Singh, 2017).

Research conducted by Bosma et al. (2020) has claimed that the scope for entrepreneurship in most developing countries for women has been ultimately increasing for the past years, which brought advantage to the continents' economic development. In Africa, for example, the immeasurable roles and responsibilities of women entrepreneurs within the societies cannot be undermined (Love et al., 2015). However, lack of employment opportunities, which leads to poverty, is one of the most concepts that make many women in developing countries, an entrepreneur (Adeola, 2014). Generally, the unemployment rate in most developing countries is increasing exponentially. Thus, for many people and Africans as a whole, becoming an entrepreneur is a solution to unemployment (Olumide, 2012). As a result, many women in developing countries have seen entrepreneurship as the only means of securing their daily needs and life necessities. They contribute significantly to their family income through active participation in various self-employment activities such as farming, crafts, restaurants, weaving, among others (Ayogu & Ogadimma, 2015).

According to Bosma et al. (2020), the economic growth, progress, and sustainable development of any country are closely associated and amalgamated with the advancement of women involvement in entrepreneurship. Therefore, in the countries in which women have improved, grown, and progressed, economic growth has typically proved to remain stable. On the other hand, in the countries in which women have been confined with limited access to formal education, training, finance, marketing, among others, the country's economy has proved to be sluggish and stagnant. Despite women’s contribution and their tremendous persistent to the economic growth, prosperity and viable promotion, the challenges, obstacles, 6

as well as barriers they face in most developing countries have nevertheless remained one of the crucial factors affecting women entrepreneurship. These obstacles, challenges and complexities include the absence of access to financial resources, the absence of access to formal education and training, lack of infrastructures, gender-based discrimination, work- family dispute, difficulties in access market, lack of good governance, etcetera.

However, most of the research and study carried out on women entrepreneurship mainly in most developing countries was not focused attention on women entrepreneur’s adaptation to industry transformation. Rather, the attention was focused mainly on the challenges confronted by women entrepreneurs. It is explicitly within this context that this research turns its attention towards a new perspective on women entrepreneurship primarily in developing nations and seeks to explore women's adaptation to industry transformation using Nigeria as a case study. The primary research questions of the corresponding research are indicated as follows;

• How do indigenous women entrepreneurs adapt to industry transformation?

• How do they perceive new opportunities during such transformation?

• How does being a woman affect the adaptation to the transformation of the industry?

1.3. Research Aims and Objectives

From the identification of women entrepreneurship difficulties and challenges in developing countries and the proposed research questions, the research aims are to basically investigate and analyse the industry transformation and the women adaptation using women in the production of indigenous fabric (ASO-OKE) in Nigeria as a case study. Hence, the goal of evaluating the transformation in the sector is concerned with the changes in the product and production process, opportunity, and challenges perceived in the business generally during the change. The objectives of this study are methodically affiliated and connected to the research problem. The objectives encapsulated what the study seeks to accomplish and showed the study focus area. Thus, the objectives are to;

• Understand the women in the indigenous product production in developing countries

• Clarify the mechanisms of their adaptability to challenges of advance in technologies and new demand

• Shed some lights on their work to develop and maintain an industry

• Assess the most effective approaches women entrepreneurs use to deal with challenges in the business.

1.4. Research Scope

The study's scope is based on the existence, performance, and accomplishment of eleven (11) designated women entrepreneurs in one of the developing nations.

1.5. Research Structure

This study is systematically arranged into five chapters, as shown underneath:

Chapter One: This provides a broad outline of this study. It comprises an introduction, background, research problems and questions, aim and objective, scope, structure, concepts, and definitions.

Chapter Two: The second chapter concentrates on the study's literature review (women entrepreneurship). It provides and details a comprehensive explanation of the study domain by evaluating several articles related to the study area. It consists of women entrepreneurship, challenges and the opportunities they perceived.

Chapter Three: The third chapter evaluate the methodological part of the study. It made up of research philosophy, approach, data generation, data analysis and interpretation, ethics and data analysis limitation, case study, production of ASO-OKE, types, and usage.

Chapter Four: The fourth chapter present the findings from the qualitative study (interview). It presents the case study of eleven (11) Nigerian women entrepreneurs in the woven fabric (ASO-OKE) business. The chapter consists of trends and transformation, curtailments as a result of the transformation, direct and indirect prospects, internal and external adaptivity support, and an adaption model.

Chapter Five: This section summarises the findings of the study in a coherent way. It consists of the study discussion, adaptation to the transformation, opportunity recognition, and dealing with transformational challenges, shift in assumption as a result of transformation, summary and study contribution, limitation, and recommendation.

Figure 1. Thesis structure flow

• Background 1. • Research Problem & Quentions • Research Aim & Objectives Introduction • Research Scope • Research Structure

• Women Entrepreneurship • Challenges of Women Entrepreneurship 2 .Literature • Women Entrepreneurship in Nigeria Review • Opportunities & Challenges of Women Entreprenurship in Nigeria

• Research Method & Design • Research Sample Selection • Data collection & Procedure 3. Methodology • Data stucture Diagram • Ethics & Limitation • Case Study

• Trends & Transformation 4. Data • Curtailments as a result of transformation Analysis & • Direct & Indirect Prospects • Internal & External Adaptivity Support Findings • Adaptation Model

• Study discussion 5. Discussion, • Contribution Limitation & • Limitation Recommendation • Recommendation

1.6. Concepts and Definitions

For this study, it is essential to comprehend the accompanying concepts as utilised with regards to the study since they are utilised repeatedly in this research.

Entrepreneurship: Reynolds et al. (2000) defined entrepreneurship as a practice of creating and venturing into a new business with a determination to generate wealth for the people and add value to society. It has been portrayed as the competence and readiness to establish and administer both new and existing business (Reynolds et al., 2000).

Entrepreneur: These are the people who sort out and operates a business or organisation, taking all the necessary financial risk to do so. An entrepreneur is usually observed as a business frontrunner and pioneer of new ideas and business procedures that create employment opportunities and offer services (Spring, 2009).

Women Entrepreneurs: This refer to the women that engaged themselves in any form of commercial activities and take all the risks that are associated with it (Imhonopi et al., 2016). They are the women who instigate, coordinate, and run a business enterprise.

Adaptation: This concept can be defined based on two contexts; new venture and existing venture. Morris et al. (1999) and Pitt & Kannemeyer (2000) define adaptation from the perspective of a new venture development as a readiness, commitment, and capability of entrepreneurs to make necessary modifications and changes into a business concept, as well as marketing approach as the business, progresses from the ordinary plan through the initial phases of the business development or lifecycle. While, Tuominen et al. (2004) characterise existing business adaptation as the business response and reaction to a change and transformation that arise in the external aspects, threats, and opportunities. In this study, I adapt the Tuominen et al. (2004) definition of the existing business as the study concentrate on the adaptation of women entrepreneurs already engaged in the indigenous textile business.

Change and Transformation: Change and Transformation in this study refer to the necessary modification in how business is performed in order to help adapt to shifts in the market.

Indigenous Textile: This is a locally produced textile perceived to have originated from indigenous knowledge of people from the southern part of Nigeria. The method of production could either be the traditional method or the modern method. Other textiles that fall within this Nigeria indigenous textile industry are Ankara and Adire.

2. THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK

The study is mainly on women entrepreneurs; thus, the theory of women entrepreneurship is established in this study. Therefore, several related literature reviews on women entrepreneurship, opportunities perceived, and the challenges confronting most of the women entrepreneurs in developing countries are well presented.

2.1. Women Entrepreneurship

In accordance with the Bosma et al. (2020) and Carlsson et al. (2013) study, entrepreneurship is an important driver of a nation’s well-being and a robust instrument for the economic progression and sustainable growth. It encourages, aids, and promotes creativity that is necessary to take advantage of new opportunities and promote efficiency, generate employment opportunities, and assist in tackling some of the community's most challenging problems. Ughetto et al. (2019) ascertained that entrepreneurship research has progressively recognised women's desire to be financially independent and their significant role in shaping their countries' economic growth and sustainable development. The steady growth in this field, especially in developing countries, has resulted in more creative and innovative women.

Most of the research conducted in developing countries has revealed that women's entrepreneurs have been the major drive and inspiration for economic growth and sustainable development (Adema et al., 2014). Additionally, several studies have acknowledged women entrepreneurship as one of the world's fastest-growing business activities. Reason for this is that that women entrepreneurs have made and continue making a substantial impact on employment generation, poverty reduction, and wealth formation, most especially in developing countries (Quiñones, 2016). Therefore, it could be argued that entrepreneurship among women has been growing exponentially over the last ten years as the proportion of women-own businesses has grown.

The universal attention towards women and their entrepreneurial spirit worldwide in the last few years has grown exponentially. Thus, the strong emphasis in relationship with this unexploited growth source is crucial for the economic development experts and decision- makers. As a result, many developing countries have come to understand the priceless and indispensable contributions of women entrepreneurship, which can strive to eradicate poverty, generate more wealth, prosperity, fortune, employment opportunities, and improve infrastructure development across developing countries (Saurabh, 2015).

In acknowledgment of women’s distinctive active contribution, the domain of women's entrepreneurship has established itself as one of the significant areas of research for decades across the world, along with special attention being paid by the researchers, government agencies, and many others (Hughes et al., 2012). The substantial number of women predominantly in the job or marketplace and their valuable and productive activities, especially in business, have turned them into a force to be regarded and empower them in the general economic development of their countries (Adema et al., 2014). Whether they engaged in formal or informal economic activities, women's business activities are not merely a tool for economic survival but additionally possess a positive social influence for themselves and their social milieu (Mastercard, 2019). Ayogu & Ogadimma (2015), in their study, reasserted that the women-own business has remained the number one source of employment generation in developing countries.

According to Ngare (2013), due to an increase in unemployment rates in developing countries, there is increasing attention in promoting and encouraging entrepreneurial activities. This attention lies in the view that entrepreneurship promotes and encourages economic growth and sustainable development. Amorós & Bosma (2013) also acknowledged that entrepreneurial development, especially in developing countries, remains one of the greatest and powerful tools for putting an end to abject poverty, the unemployment rate, and accomplishing sustainable development of any nation. Consequently, women have been characterised as an essential component of this greatest development. Bosma et al. (2020) asserted that women entrepreneurs have potential and powerful impacts on the processes of economic growth and sustainable development of any countries because of their contribution towards fighting against poverty and unemployment. Additionally, Adema et al. (2014) also claimed that women are the most important actors in entrepreneurial activities because of their substantial contributions to economic growth and sustainable development across the globe.

Several studies have acknowledged women business establishment as one of the world's fastest-growing entrepreneurs, which has been tremendously increasing in size at a rapid rate in terms of populations. Their undeniable hard work has recently made and still making a substantial contribution mainly to the unemployment reduction, abject poverty alleviation, and wealth creation in most developing countries (Brush et al., 2010). According to Saurabh (2015), women entrepreneurship's growth has gotten considerable attention in the last few years in developing countries. Therefore, the coming generations could see an intensified and improved endeavor in this area because of the objectives and targets of territorial balancing and employment.

Saurabh (2015) study has also claimed that speeding up economic growth involves an increase in women entrepreneurs' quantity. Thus, when women-owned business thrives, they serve as a ground-breaker in their household and their community and motivate other women

around them to become self-dependent and entrepreneur. For instance, in developing countries, women entrepreneur achievement improves the household standard of living, community, and the regional economy by making a significant contribution to the country's growth and development (Saurabh, 2015).

2.2. Challenges of Women Entrepreneurship

This section focuses its attention and discussion on the limitations, constraints and restrictions of women entrepreneurship mainly in the context of financial resources, educational and training, marketing opportunities, infrastructures, bad governance, and corruption in developing countries. Even with this ever-increasing number of women involvements in entrepreneurship in developing countries, they are still encountered with several challenges. According to Lincoln (2018), women entrepreneur has been positively identified and acknowledged as an important, cherished, and valuable cause for economic growth in most of the developed nations. However, they are yet to achieve their maximum potential in most developing countries because of their challenges during their entrepreneurship journey. Upon the significant contribution of women in developing countries towards economic growth and development, they are still confronted with several challenges to get ahead of their lives in any form of business they engaged in (Adeola, 2014).

Investigational findings from previous research about the limitations and challenges confronting women entrepreneurs across developing countries have been mixed. For instance, the analysis carried out by the Brush et al. (2010) discovered that inadequate financial resources, lack of formal training, guidances, mentorship, education, ability to access raw material, inadequate infrastructure, shortage of power supply, bad governance, and corruption are the most important factors affecting women entrepreneurs in developing countries. Carmen Niethammer (2013) also shown that several factors harm women entrepreneurs' growth rates in developing countries. These factors include the absence of business capital, household support, financial assistance from public and private agencies, professional development, information knowledge, marketing strategies, gender inequality, information, legal, and policy.

The study conducted by Mandipaka (2014) examines the difficulties encountered by women entrepreneurs in South Africa using King Williams Town as a case study. The outcome of her study shows that lack of education, gender-based discrimination, and marketing exposure are the major factors affecting women entrepreneurs in King Williams Town. Despite the effort of the United Nations, most of the programs to support women entrepreneurship in developing countries seem to be unsuccessful; this can be connected to the issues surrounded the business environment in these countries, such as the elevated level of corruption, low quality of education, lack of managerial skills, bad roads, insufficiency power 13

supply, infrastructures, political instability et cetera (Ikharehon, 2016). However, this study identified a lack of infrastructural facilities, lack of access to the educational system and training, marketing problems, cost of manufacturing, and financial problems as the most important factors affecting women entrepreneurship in developing countries.

2.2.1. Financial Resources

Finance resources is perceived to be the essential, lifeblood and necessity of any start- up business. Nevertheless, most businesswomen have suffered from the absence of finance in many ways in developing countries. For example, women usually do not have properties (such as lands, houses, et cetera) on their names, which can be used as collateral, security, or guarantee to secure financial resources from external sources (Subramaniam, 2016). Women are also not considered genuine entrepreneurs; therefore, their credit rating is extremely low. Consequently, their access, especially to an external financial resource is restricted (The World Bank, 2015).

In accordance with the Fair (2017) report, the battle to raise capital to start a business remains a significant obstacle in most developing countries. However, these issues are much more obvious among women entrepreneurs. Absent of financial resources either from the Government or non-government organisations remains the number one obstacle facing women entrepreneurs in the developing nations. While researchers have demonstrated and revealed that women deal with their credit outstanding even far better than men, they are nevertheless, finding it so difficult to get funds for their businesses. An investigation by the African Development Bank (ADB), as stated in Fair (2017) report, discovers that the financing disparity for women across the continent of Africa is being evaluated above twenty-billion US dollars and yet more women battled the most. As indicated by the 2014 Findex report, just thirty percent of women in Africa have a bank account. This measurement shows the significance of enabling women through monetary consideration (Fair, 2017).

The study conducted by Afande (2016) in Kenya also discovered that, lack of providing adequate and inexpensive credit for women-owned businesses have nevertheless remained the most significant hurdles to the economic growth. The research conducted by Kikula (2018) also showed that the greatest difficulties confronting women entrepreneurs when attempting to deal with their entrepreneurial activities were the absence of capital. According to Saurabh (2015), in Bangladesh, countless women face substantial difficulties from gaining access to a loan to start-up businesses.

2.2.2. Lack of Infrastructure

According to Ritter (2015), infrastructures are the fundamental equipment that is necessary, essential, and required for any economy to operate and function properly. It is an basic and indispensable element in helping and promoting the economic growth of a country. Not just that, infrastructure can only improve the effectiveness of manufacturing, transport services, and communication. Still, it can also assist in providing economic spurs to both public and the private sector. Additionally, infrastructure can make a substantial and extensive contribution mainly to the economic development by improving efficiency and offering services that improve the quality of life.

However, most developing countries have been affected by inadequate infrastructure, resulting in a poor standard of living and improving poverty in most developing countries. Without good roads, for example, most women entrepreneurs would not be able to transport their finishing goods from rustic areas to urban areas and vice versa. Inadequate infrastructure such as road has been recognised as a major public concern in developing nations (such as Nigeria, Togo, Congo, Kenya, and Cameroon among others) because it has a surging effect on the nation’s economy, pessimistic impact on business productivity, job opportunities, among others (Ritter, 2015).

As indicated in Gaal (2017) study, lack of infrastructural facilities has become one of the general problems facing the women entrepreneurs across the developing nations. For instance, unavailability of transportation facilities, lack of roads, and lack of electricity is one reason for the low generation of employment. As such, in rural areas for businesses, there are the availability of labourers at low wages and easy availability of raw materials for women entrepreneurs, but due to lack of continuous and required electricity, women entrepreneurs do not wish to establish businesses in rural areas; as a result, new employment can not arise and unemployment exit (Gaal, 2017). Necessary infrastructure has been acknowledged in Gaal (2017) as an essential, a strong pillar, and a keystone for quicker economic expansion and environmental development, and alleviation of abject poverty throughout the developing countries.

2.2.3. Lack of Access to Education and Professional Training

Shortage or absence of access to the education system and training, particularly across developing countries, leaves women at an incredible drawback and privation in life (Mandipaka, 2014). Not just it makes them powerless and inability to enhance their own highly developed intellect and societal capabilities via education, but they also have been experiencing sufferers from social obsequiousness or submissiveness as well as lack of ability to participate in business on the same terms as men (Boden, 2000). Lack of proper education 15

leaves women unsuitable and useless to withstand the norm-setting pressures from society to comply with the requirements to conventional societal responsibility expectations for a division of the workforce. Likewise, educational discrepancies make it harder for women to respond to pressure by their spouses and household members to comply with the social norms (Bhardwaj, 2014).

2.2.4. Marketing Problems

According to Sam (2016), successfully merchandising products on the market is frequently perceived as a significant hurdle for women entrepreneurs. It remains the fundamental issues because this area is mostly male-dominated, and even women who have sufficient knowledge and experience do not manage to make a dent. The existence of intermediary, inadequate knowledge, or the information and the lack of professional knowledge and experience make marking exercises a tedious task.

As mentioned in the Saurabh (2015) study, the competitiveness of products manufactured by women entrepreneurship in most developing countries has proved to be a major concern. Market mechanisms remain vibrant, and therefore, customers could change their perceptions and preferences; thus, their order and needs for the products may be subject to change. Manufacturers must be ground-breaking according to their techniques, methods, approach, and policies to remain vibrant in the business. Regrettably, a shortage of marketing expertise and experience has continued to be a significant constraint for numerous women entrepreneurs across developing countries. Researchers have investigated several instances and demonstrated that several women entrepreneurs, especially in developing countries, have suffered from various marketing flaws (Saurabh, 2015).

2.2.5. Lack of Female Exemplary

In the study conducted by Mandipaka (2014) in southern Africa, evidence shows a lack of role models. The greater correlation amongst the existence of an exemplary or admirable role models as well as the advent of entrepreneurs was established in Shapero & Sokol (1982) cited in Mandipaka, (2014) because of the way women entrepreneurs have not been available as entrepreneurs before; these days, they need an exemplary model of the same gender. An exemplary model is viewed as people who, by their perspectives, practices, and activities, build up the attractive quality and believability of a person's decision to turn into a business visionary. Moreover, the impact of the exemplary model is gender interrelated. This implies, an entrepreneur will be more affected by another entrepreneur of a similar sexual orientation.

2.3. Women Entrepreneurship in Nigeria

Nigeria as a giant of Africa with a cultural and ethnically diverse population has experienced substantial and significant economic growth in the past twenty (20) years of its democratic governance (Bosma et al., 2020). This was a consequence of women's active participation, involvement, commitment and dedication in the country’s economic growth and development through their entrepreneurial activities. Before in Nigeria, women had to always depend on others, but recently, they are becoming more independent, educated, and becoming their boss through the practice of entrepreneurship (Olumide, 2012).

According to David et al. (2016), more than average women in Nigeria have enormous capacity, competence, and power as human resources. In the attempt to care for the family, these women have been either directly or indirectly engaged in entrepreneurial activity through agriculture, weaving, trading, and more. Thus, contributing massively and enormously to the population economic progression and development. As maintained by Adeola (2014), women's involvement in any form of entrepreneurial activity is progressively increasing in Nigeria. Thus, contributing immensely to their family incomes. It was also acknowledged by Mastercard (2019) index that women-own businesses across Nigeria constitute a significant percentage of economic output. Olarewaju (2019) stated that 40 percent of entrepreneurs in Nigeria were women.

According to BBC News, in 2017, forty percent (40%) of Nigerian entrepreneurs were women. As stated in Lagos State Employment Trust Fund (LSETF), business rules were truly changing across Nigeria, and women are at the forefront of that transformation (Fawehinmi, 2018). The 2013 annual survey conducted by the Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM) also indicates that, whenever it comes to a business start-up, Nigeria women are incredibly well-represented. The survey further indicates that women operate forty (40) percent of businesses in Nigeria compared to their male counterparts, 39 percent. The director of GEM stated that the root cause of an increase in women-owned businesses across Nigeria is that these women want to secure an extra income source to cater to their household and the communities (Amorós & Bosma, 2013). Information extracted shows that Nigeria's population was 174 million in the year 2013, whereby women accounted for 50 percent (84 million) of the entire population (National Bureau of Statistics, 2016). As mentioned by an expert, women- owned registered businesses in Nigeria accounted for about 40 percent (National Bureau of Statistics, 2016).

According to Ngare (2013), mostly in developing countries, people are engaged in the informal economy. Therefore, within this informal economy, most women entrepreneurs in Nigeria are positioned (Ifeanyi, 2011), in which they are greater in number than their men counterparts (Olumide, 2012). However, women's aspiration within Nigerian society to own

their own business is greatly influenced by the intense and extreme battle for inadequate job opportunities amongst an over-populated nation (Olumide, 2012).

2.4. Opportunities and Challenges of Women Entrepreneurship in Nigeria

Several studies conducted on entrepreneurship show that women entrepreneurs use barriers to their benefit (Azmat, 2013) likewise, in developing nations like Nigeria, where there are more barriers to the business. However, it is also possible to turn the barriers into an opportunity, as indicated in Imhonopi et al. (2016) that not all is dreary for women entrepreneurs in Nigeria, as there are various opportunities that make women entrepreneurs more successful. According to Tende (2014), several programs have been designed by the public, private, NGO, and government organizations to empower women entrepreneurs in Nigeria to grow their enterprises through financial literacy and business skills training.

An example of this is the African Women Entrepreneurship Program (AWEP). Their mission is to create a network of extremely skilled women entrepreneurs by offering valuable information through training, access to the market, and monetary opportunities. Since these initiatives are effective, some of the country's economic advocates had been seeking more empowerment programs, particularly tailored for women entrepreneurs, to enhance the country's quick economic growth.

In Nigerian societies, women have made a significant contribution (through the formal and informal economy) to the country's economic growth and sustainable development (Olumide, 2012). Today, business possessed by women remain growing in all aspect and various sectors ( like agriculture and the textile industry, amongst others), due to the thriving business opportunities. Therefore, empowering and supporting these women economically is perceived, noticed and recognised by the experts as a valuable goal to enhance not only the women's business but also to contribute to the economy at large.

However, women entrepreneurs in Nigeria are still confronted with numerous challenges related to the challenges faced by most women entrepreneurship across the Africa countries. The challenges faced by women entrepreneurship in Nigeria are discussed in more detail in the next sub-heading.

Figure 2. Challenges of Women Entrepreneurs in Nigeria

Inadequate Access to Finance

Insufficient Difficulties in Challenges of Entrepreneurshi Access to Women p Training and Markets Entrepreneuship Education

Inadequate Technological Development

2.4.1. Finance Access

Several entrepreneurship researchers have noticed and viewed funds raising as a major problem for women entrepreneurs in most of the developed and developing countries (Ascher, 2012). Therefore, most of the women entrepreneurs in Nigeria society are not left out in this struggle. These women struggled to the highest degree when raising capital to start up their businesses. According to Obokoh (2008), gaining credibility, especially in entrepreneurship, is being identified as a major concern for women entrepreneurs. As a result, they received unfair access to bank loans or discriminatory practices.

According to Sanusi (2012), access to finance has proved to be a fundamental obstacle against women entrepreneurs in developing countries such as Nigeria. Finance for entrepreneurial activities constitutes the largest obstacle for women entrepreneurs in African countries, especially in Nigeria, with bad governance. Adesua-Lincoln (2011) analysed access and basic criteria of women in business to investment fund or start up capital in Nigeria settings in her research. The study was grounded on the analysis of one-hundred and thirty-two women-owned businesses across the country. It used observational research methods, which were primarily based on organised tabulation and percentages values. The research showed that ninety-five (95) percent of the participants were mainly constrained by the inadequate financial resources and a lack of collateral. According to her study, more than half of the

research participants raised their working capitals from internal sources such as family and friends.

Lincoln's (2018) research on women entrepreneurship has demonstrated that a larger percentage of the women across Nigeria were unable to secure loans from the banks because they do not have collateral. According to him, forty-four (40) percent of the research participants received their initial start-up capital from their extended family. Thirty percent (30) received initial start-up capital from their spouse's savings and support. In contrast, others got their capital from friends. In a keynote speech presented by Sanusi (2012), there are numerous obstacles to the most effective use of women’s economic capability, competency, and potential. These obstacles vary from traditional belief, religious belief, discrimination, and no enough access to finance. However, one of the most common obstacles facing larger percentage of women entrepreneurs in the developing nations such as Nigeria remain lack of financial access. These women are continually curious about building and growing their entrepreneurial strengths due to the clear lack of finance for women entrepreneurship in the country.

Daniyan-Bagudu et al. (2016) confirmed that women in Nigeria face different kinds of entrepreneurial challenges activities. However, the unavailability of finance or funds has been acknowledged as a major obstacle undergone by women entrepreneurs in Nigeria. Their study suggested that Nigeria's Federal Government should intervene by providing financial support either through aids or loans and promoting female education across the country.

2.4.2. Insufficient Training and Education

Insufficient entrepreneurship training, mentorship and education have also been identified as one of the major obstacles that face women entrepreneurship in Nigerian societies. Studies in both developed and developing countries about women-owned businesses ascertained that education and entrepreneurship skills training opportunities positively impact business performance (Mandipaka, 2014). According to Liimatainen (2002), acquired knowledge and relevant skillsets through training are essential for boosting productivity and working conditions in any form of enterprise. Therefore, for the growth and survival of indigenous fabric, productivity improvement is crucial. The importance of training on productivity in any enterprise has been clearly and unambiguously established in several research. Liimatainen (2002) study further admitted that the skill sets acquired through training have many advantages on return and were necessary for improved profits and productivity.

Lincoln (2018) study also ascertained that several women business owners in Nigeria, especially in the informal economic sectors, lack training, and therefore, the requirement for training must be emphasized. Obtaining appropriate skill sets and knowledge on handling and

managing a business successfully can sometimes even more challenging for women in Nigeria. This is because women often have a lot of responsibilities for their household. According to Obokoh (2008), most of the SMEs in Nigeria, especially women entrepreneurs in the informal sectors, lack essential management skills, which can help manage their entrepreneurial activities. This is due to their lack of basic education and needed entrepreneurship training due to their inadequate household background. As a consequence of the lack of their essential management skills and basic education, they find it hard to maintain records and make quality decisions, which may help in their business growth.

2.4.3. Technological Access

The advancement in technology has transformed entrepreneurs' approach to conducting their business activities in developed and developing countries. SMEs businesses have currently used a range of technologies to build a competitive edge in the current economic marketplace (Vitez, 2019). The degree of advancement in technology remained at the fundamental phase in Nigeria, which makes most of the small businesses, especially manufacturing industries, much dependent on the imported machinery and raw materials used in their manufacturing process. Most businesses, such as indigenous fabric that cannot afford imported apparatus because of the limited access to finance, are forced to use traditionally made instruments. Therefore, the finished products resulted in too expensive, and the overall quality in most instances are not met due to the manual method of manufacturing processes. This limitation has successfully made it difficult for many small-sized businesses to perform their significant role (Obokoh, 2008) particularly in Nigeria.

Ikein (2011) also identified technology as a significant challenge for the indigenous textile industry, such as ASO-OKE. The study concluded that there is resistance towards the advancement and upgrade of the traditional techniques employed in the production due to the cultural and social values and emotional connection with the local processes and procedures of the indigenous fabrics. The research remarkably demonstrated that modern technologies transformed the particular sector and the methods of production and individual approaches to contribute to the corresponding system to enhance and develop the prolific outcomes from the textile sector (Sunday, 2017).

2.4.4. Access to Market

The ability to take advantage of emerging markets encompasses specialised skills and knowledge. However, women entrepreneurs in Nigeria, especially in informal sectors, have no adequate access to marketing guidance and the require information about engaging in an open market. Thus they cannot market their products strategically (Obokoh, 2008). As a result,

women with SMEs are less likely to take over production and sales. Moreover, women in an informal economy are not exposed to foreign markets and are not known for their worldwide reputation.

The high and soaring cost of establishing new connections and business relationships, particularly in the new countries and markets, is a significant challenge and impediment for several SMEs, especially for the females who collectively belong to the indigenous textile industry. In addition to this, Women also feel scared, prejudiced, or sexually harassed in traveling and making their contacts in the entire markets, especially in the informal economy. As per the study conducted by Struthers (2019), in Nigeria, there is approx. 57% of entrepreneur women who face harassment are specified for the indigenous textile industry.

Market liberalisation leads to more competition, which requires a faster response to the market. Therefore, SMEs face competition from low-cost and efficient low-cost producers of multinational companies and other developing countries and must actively participate in improving technology and skills and more effective quality management to maintain competitiveness. This may require quick and easy access to capital, which women belong to indigenous textile entrepreneurs often lack. As per the study conducted by Wandaka (2018), it has been found that women's unfamiliarity with the outside world and their ability to move around also make it difficult for women to start or run businesses with numerous institutions. Consequently, even if they have the professional skills as well as training, they are often forced or pushed to turn to male professionals for help and start-up or sustain their own business.

Regardless of the challenges mentioned above by women entrepreneurs in Nigeria, these women still possessed enormous energy and a high need for accomplishment. Therefore, it resulted in establishing and expanding their businesses in an extraordinary way and getting ways to overcome those obstacles. As referred to in the Adeola (2014) study, despite the constraints, the possibility to find women entrepreneurs who can take control over their businesses, likewise their lives as the business transformed, remains a blur. This is the case of many Nigerian women entrepreneurs that engaged in ASO-OKE production.

Figure 3. Conceptual Framework

Challenges of Women Entrepreneurship

Effect of The Adataption to The adaptation to The Women Industry Industry Entrepreneurship Transformation Transformation

Opportunities Perceived During The Change

3. METHODOLOGY

3.1. Research Philosophy

The research philosophy known as values or rationale to accumulate the data for the research (Sim et al., 2018). The philosophy varies based on nature for the specified research topic. According to the study conducted by Alase (2017), when a research analyst plans to describe the components of research, the analytical skills are based on research philosophy. Many different philosophies can be used in research; the most common are positivism, interpretivism, and pragmatism (Saunders, 2016). In addition to these, some researchers also use the philosophy of realism in their research. However, realism-based research philosophy is effectual for scientific experiments and practical tests only (Sim et al., 2018). Therefore, the philosophy of realism was not considered in this study.

In this research process, interpretivism's philosophy analyses is used to achieve the desired results. The main factor that makes this research philosophy more appropriate is in- terpreting different elements of the data acquired from different sources. The researcher's primary aim is to interpret different participants' responses into a comprehensive form and thus articulate the perception of women entrepreneurs related to the transformation and adaption of women entrepreneurs in the indigenous textile industry, focusing on ASO-OKE fabric in Ibadan (Nigeria).

3.2. Research Approach

Research approach focuses on viability of qualitative research methods, which is defined as collecting data from different sources. In the research conducted by Punch (2013), there are two most important forms of research: inductive research and deductive research. Deductive research is more effective for validating the hypothesis. In contrast and comparison, inductive research mainly concerned in conjunction with developing a new theory or confirm- ing an existing model based on the data obtained directly from the interviewees or observation (Eriksson & Kovalainen, 2008).

In this research, an inductive approach is used since this research aim is to determine how women entrepreneurs in ASO-OKE adapt to the change in their business as well as the opportunities, challenges, and coping mechanisms during this transformation, along with the possibilities to explore the theory and expand our understanding on indigenous women entrepreneurship. Through the help of this approach, the researcher could assess an in-depth information on how women entrepreneurs in (ASO-OKE) in Ibadan (Nigeria) were challenged, 24

opportunities they perceived, and how they adapt to the evolving transformation in the ASO- OKE production and business in general.

3.2.1. Qualitative Versus Quantitative Research

In research methodology, the research approach incorporates different ways to conduct research (Alase, 2017). The quantitative research method and qualitative research method are the two major ways to conduct research. The quantitative research method is quantifiable or measurable in comparison to qualitative research (Townsend, 2016). The quantitative research method has been categorised as a methodical exploration of the phenomenon by accumulating and gathering measurable and scientific data and executing numerical, statistical, and computational techniques. Nonetheless, quantitative research tends to develop short responses. In contrast, qualitative research is originated from the notion of collecting non-numerical data from different sources, such as interviews. It is also referred to as the concept of evaluating different phenomena that cannot be measured or calculated (Meerkerk, 2019).

Furthermore, the qualitative method identifies changes from one variable to another and determines the changes' results and causes (Sim et al., 2018). Therefore, providing profound information to enrich the outcome of the overall research. Since this study is to determine the participant; therefore, a qualitative approach is the most appropriate approach since it enables the investigator to collect the raw data directly from the participant. Another main advantage of using a qualitative research method is that it allows the respondents or participants to express their opinion in their own words, thereby increasing the research's overall credibility.

3.3. Data Collection and Generation

Data collection or generation are the courses of actions that are followed to gather, and measure information based on the variable of interest in the established methodological for- mat (Saunders, 2016). According to Horrocks (2010) and Howitt (2019), there are numerous ways of gathering qualitative data, ranging from in-depth interviews to field observation to the analysis of objects (e.g., picture or video), documents, and records. An in-depth interview is the most prominent and basic element of gathering data in the qualitative methodology. An in- depth interview gathers responses and ideas collected by asking a series of questions from respondents (Scheurich, 2013). It gives in-depth information on the research phenomenon. Therefore, it is justifiable to use in-depth interviews to collect data from the women who run businesses in ASO-OKE in Nigeria (Ibadan) for this research, to gain in-depth insights on the

challenges they experience as a result of the transformation, the opportunity perceived, as well as their coping mechanisms.

Also, in this type of data collection method (interview), the researcher can control the scope of the process in which problems can be resolved, and information can be quickly gathered (Creswell, 2013). These interviews aid the researcher to better understanding and evaluating research-based experiences, behaviours, and phenomena (Punch, 2013).

3.3.1. Unstructured Interview

There are three (3) main types of interviews commonly known as structured, semi- structured, and unstructured. In an unstructured interview, few open-ended interview questions are prepared based on research questions to conduct the primary research and acquire the designated respondents' views (Eriksson & Kovalainen, 2008). The main purpose of conducting the unstructured interview is to make sure new questions that arise during the interview sessions are cross-examined to increase the research findings' reliability and validity rather than relying on the pre-planned questions limiting the research findings (Eriksson & Kovalainen, 2008). Hence, the researcher applied unstructured interviews to execute this research on understanding how women entrepreneurs adapt to changes in the indigenous textile industry, particularly focusing on ASO-OKE fabrics and determine the strategy they use in dealing with the challenges and the opportunities they perceived.

The formulated interview questions were parted into few sections; including personal information, basic information, challenges, and coping mechanism, perception of opportunities, and challenges as a woman (see appendix 1), and all the questions were phrased in a way that will allow the interviewees to express themselves longer and deeper.

3.3.2. Introduction to Interviewees

The interviews were well managed, organised and conducted with eleven (11) women entrepreneurs in the business of ASO-OKE in Ibadan. All these women run their businesses separately. However, not all the interviewees produce the ASO-OKE yet majority of them are producers of ASO-OKE. Six (6) out of them are into production only, four (4) are into both production and retailing, while one (1) into retailing only.

➢ Interviewees Background

Participant A is a 32-years-old indigene of Ibadan, Oyo State, with a first degree in food science from the prestigious University, Ladoke University of Technology (LAUTECH). She is married and has been in the ASO-OKE business for seven (7) years. Two (2) years as a part- time vendor and five (5) years as a full-time producer and vendor.

Participant B is a bit different from the rest of the participants considering her story. She is a twenty-nine (29) years old women from Akure Ondo state married to an Ibadan man. She has an Ordinary National Diploma (OND) certificate in mass communication from Polytechnic of Offa and has eight (8) years of experience.

Participant C is a thirty-three (33) years married woman of Shaki indigene. She has a postgraduate qualification in theater art from UniLag (University of Lagos) and has been in the business for nine (9) years. Two years of learning how to make the fabric and seven years into the business.

Among the participants that produce and sell ASO-OKE are three (3) participants D, E, and F (see Table 1). They are the Oldest amongst all participants. Thirty-five (35), thirty-four (34), and thirty-seven (37) years old, respectively. These participants have a bachelor’s degree in accounting, engineering, and electronic Engineering. Their years of experience are three (3), six (6), and six (6), respectively.

Table 1. Interviewees information summary

Participant Age Education Range Year of Experience A 32 B. degree P/S 7

B 29 OND P/S 8

C 33 M. degree P/S 9

D 35 B. degree P/S 3 E 34 B. degree P/S 6

F 37 B. degree P/S 6

G 30 OND P Ten and above

H 29 HND P Ten and above I 29 HND P Ten and above

J 32 HND P Ten and above

K 31 B. degree S 5

Participant G, H, I, and J are thirty (30), twenty-nine (29), twenty-nine (29), and thirty- two (32) years old, respectively. They share almost similar profiles except f or the fact that they are from a different family. They are all indigene of Ibadan. Also, participant G is an Ordinary National Diploma holder (OND) in political science. In contrast, participant H, I, and J are currently a part-time student of Ibadan's polytechnic studying towards their Higher National Diploma (HND) in Business Administration, Insurance, and Art and Design. All these

participants have a long time of experience in ASO-OKE production because it is their family business. The skills are being passed down from generation to generation. These four (4) participants produce ASO-OKE only for other people to sell.

The last participant, K, only sell embellished ASO-OKE. She is thirty-one (31) years and an indigene of Ogbomosho but based in Ibadan. Also, she is a graduate of Economics at Obafemi Awolowo University (OAU). She has been in the business for five (5) years. She was already a fashion designer before she decided to venture into the ASO-OKE business.

➢ Conducting Interview

The interview started by giving the research's full details, including aims and objectives for each interviewee before the interview. Also, the consents of each interviewee were sought before the interview. The purpose of this was to allow participants to make a better, rational and reasonable decision about whether to partake in the research or not. The researcher affirmed and acknowledged that the information obtained from the interview will only be used based on the research purpose without disclosing it to third parties. Furthermore, during the interview, they were asked to provide and give an honest response and answer to each question based on their experience within the industry, and personal opinions were also welcomed.

There was a location barrier while collecting the data. Therefore, the interviews were done online by the researcher through Skype. However, all interviewees were not active on Skype, and some had poor internet connectivity; hence, the WhatsApp call was used to conduct the majority of the interviews (Table 2). Few women were more welcoming, so they allowed the researcher to conduct video calls and even showed their factories where the ASO- OKE fabric is being made.

Table 2. Summary of Interviews conducted

Participants Means of Interview Duration (min) Date

A WhatsApp 56.00 22.11 2019 B WhatsApp 1.05.22 26.11.2019 C Skype 1.16.13 27.11.2019 D WhatsApp 48.30 10.12 2019 E WhatsApp 1.07.11 11.12 2019 F WhatsApp 45.40 15. 12.2019 G WhatsApp 1.02.19 17.12.2019

H WhatsApp 59.00 22.12.2019 I Skype 58.40 09.01.2020 J WhatsApp 1.07.45 15.01.2020 K WhatsApp 1.02. 29 17.01 2020

The longest of the interview took an hour, sixteen minutes (1:16), although there was a break in between because the particular interviewee was a working/nursing mother. The shortest interview took forty-five minutes and forty seconds(45.40 ). In general, the whole interview took almost three (3) months because interviewees were allowed to book the interview time based on their availability.

3.3.3. Data Transcription

Data transcription is an imperative and indispensable constituent to qualitative research (Christina et al., 2019). Moreover, the term refers to the procedure by which audio and video recording is interpreted into words, which can then be analysed to understand respondents' views (Horrocks, 2010). At this phase, I firstly translate the interviews taken in the local language (Yoruba) into English language, after which the transcription of the remaining recording began. Although I progressively transcribe the interview during the interview conduction period because some of the interviewees were not available until a month later, the interview com- menced.

During this transcription process, I initially tried to transcribe the recordings with Google Docs as it has a free dictation software tool named Voice Typing. This tool listens and tran- scribes in Google Docs and quickly transcribe an audio recording. However, this process was not successful since it could not work with any interviewee's accents. Therefore, all interviews were manually transcribed.

The process required endless replaying of the same recording and understanding what the interviewee responded to a specific question. More than fifteen (15) number of open-ended interview questions excluded the emerged questions during the interview. Each answer took ten (10) minutes or more to transcribe, depending on the interviewee's answer's longevity.

Figure 4. Summary of Data Collection Process

Generate questions Collect data Transcribe data

Find ASO-OKE Conduct interview Analysis entrepreneurs

Visit the Book interviews entrepreneurs

3.4. Data Analysis and Interpretation

In qualitative research, data analysis is considered the method that thoroughly searches and organises interview transcripts or observation notes collected by the researcher to enhance the understanding of the phenomenon. It includes making sense of massive amounts of data (Educba, 2020) by breaking down the size of the raw data into meaning information, by recognising essential patterns, and finally extracting meaning from data and afterward constructing a logical chain of facts either by creating or confirm conceptual framework and theories (Miles & Saldana, 2014).

According to Erikson & Kovalainen (2008), one of the best approaches to analysing business research data is grounded theory. It allows the data to uncover unexpected patterns about the participants. In a broader sense, the ground theory is defined as an approach that is made up of a particular set of processes or procedures necessary for carving and whittling out the engrained intermediate-range hypothesis with the assistance of the empirical data (Erikson & Kovalainen, 2008). This implies, the approach allows theorising specific parts of social phenomena, rather than broad, high-level theories that deal with non-concrete or particular entities, which provide the opportunity to create a new theory or update an existing one.

In this research, using an analytical method that is not solely pre-enclosed and permits evidence to occur without being pre-defined by the research model or previous research is required. In this way, patterns from the data that can best answer the research questions 30

about women in ASO-OKE can emerge, rather than working on the macro-level of women entrepreneurship theory in general. Therefore, grounded theory is used to make sense of the data to develop a theory that best explains the research domain.

I began the data analysing process with data familiarisation, known as "get to know your data." During this phase of the data process, I re-read the entire transcribed document to understand the whole interview data before breaking it down into codes and concepts. After which, I follow the (3) three modified general coding process of grounded theory by Strauss and Corbin (1998) cited in (Erikson & Kovalainen, 2008).

The first phase in the grounded theory analysis process is open coding. Data is broken down into comprehensive pieces, and initial concepts are categorized to compare and contrast (Strauss and Corbin, 1998) cited in (Erikson & Kovalainen, 2008). In this phase, I first break down the data by searching for the keywords, sentences, or phrases through the initial line by line analysis and continually comparing and contrasting. Every occurrence is labeled simultaneously with proper names for further categorisation. I likewise performed what (LaRossa, 2005) called "categorisation" and "dimensionalising." i.e., grouping similar concepts and different concepts and giving an appropriate name that best describes the categories' logically. I purposely did this to ensure no excessive labeling could easily confuse me in the next phase.

The second phase in the grounded theory analysis process is axial coding. Erikson & Kovalainen (2008) explained axial coding as a way of "transferring the analysis from description towards linking codes together" In this process phase, I searched for links and connections between the labeled categories developed during the first phase to form core categories or clusters with the help of constant assessment to the enabled building of higher- order themes. This implies I determined the research's core story by identifying the category with the most vital connections to the other types and developed more coincide themes.

The final phase of the process is selective coding. At this phase, all analysis is aggregated towards theoretical structure (Erikson & Kovalainen, 2008). Accordingly, I gathered comparable themes into the predominant dimension that best form the emergent theory's framework. The overall data structure is summarised in figure 5 below.

Figure 5. Data structure summary

First Order Concepts Second Order Concepts Aggregate Dimensions

3.5. Ethics & Data Analysis Limitation

At the beginning of the interview, the interviewees consent are sought properly; they were also free to determine whether they want to participate or not. As a supplement to this, the information disclosed during the interview is kept private and confidential. Integrity has also been ensured throughout the research according to the information and data provided by the respondents.

Speaking of limitations, budgeting was one of the researcher's crucial limitations while executing the research. Another obstacle that has been faced by the researcher is the time constraint since the researcher also took help from a family friend to collect the contact 32

information of the targeted samples. However, the most significant limitation of the research data collection method was based on the fact that it relied particularly on the use of only eleven (11) respondents. In this concern, it has been proposed that the researcher in the future must focus on increasing the number of the sample while employing qualitative research techniques to enhance the overall application and reliability.

3.6. Case Study

In Nigeria, the textile industry is emerging with the growing importance of culture among individuals. Considering the influence of the textile sector's culture and social impact on the people in the western region, they faced the social change, which simultaneously transformed their consumption preferences and changed their clothing choices (Onyeiwu, 2013).

In this manner, the cultural dynamics changed consumer experiences, which caused severe devastation in society and affected the business performance of culture-based products such as indigenous fabric (ASO-OKE). The internal social change in the textile sector field is concurrently highlighted in the case of indigenous fabric (ASO-OKE); the Yoruba hand- woven textiles are famous in Nigeria due to their cultural heritage in the region. Still, the western influences of fashion apparels out shadowed the traditional arts and created the gradual extinction of indigenous fabric (ASO-OKE) in the 20th century. In this era, the textile sector launched western fashion in Nigeria's Southwestern region (Akanle, 2009). Thus, the textile industry's condition, especially for the ASO-OKE producers, became tragic at that time. After development in the conventional ASO-OKE manufacture and its demanding use amongst Yorubas in the south-western Nigeria and the shift of the textile sector specifically, the women entrepreneurs in the production of indigenous fabric (ASO-OKE) created the change in the textile business scope in respective region (Obembe, 2016).

The word “ASO-OKE" is an abbreviation of "ASO AWON ILU OKE," commonly referred to as "ASO-OFI," which means garments from the rural areas or top clothes. It is a hand- woven textile popularly known as "ASO-OFI." The “ASO” means “cloth” in Yoruba, while “OfI” means “loom.” Ofi is in two-part; Clay Ofi (Woven Clay), which is not movable, and Ofi Onigi (Woven Tree), which is transferable. The name emanated because of the Yoruba people's propensity to relate an object to its sources. The generation of ASO-OKE among Africa's general population is for some time established in their way of life(culture). In those good old days, Aso-oke materials are created from locally obtained cotton, silk, bark, and goats’ yarn (Renne,1995;102) as cited in Makinde et al. (2009).

ASO-OKE remains one of the oldest clothes as it was sighted in a funeral ceremony in Niger during the eighth century (Clarke 1998;18), as cited in Makinde et al. (2009). This gives proof of a long-standing cloth convention in Africa. Following Adenle (2016) personal

discovery, ASO-OKE, the ancient hand-woven traditional textile that has survived decades of westernisation, are commonly found among the Yoruba people in the Southwest of Nigeria. However, it has recently transcended beyond the Yoruba zone and progressively prevalent among the other ethnicities. The textile is a standout amongst the most dynamic and fruitful fabrics in the African mainland. Apart from being a beautiful attire, it is also worn as a symbol of class prestige and royalty, which is why it is popularly referred to as ASO-OKE (Adenle, 2016). The Yoruba people in the southwestern of Nigeria, particularly in main municipalities (Oyo town, Lagos cities, Iseyin town, Saki town, Okeho town, Oshogbo town, Ibadan town, and many more), are well renowned when it comes to ASO-OKE production.

The production of ASO-OKE textile is an extended age occupation that started centuries ago in the Southwest of Nigeria, particularly in Oyo State. However, the craft is the central preoccupation of the ISEYIN people in Oyo State. Historically, the occupation is usually passed from one generation to another to generate revenue for the family. Just like every other clothing materials, ASO-OKE also has different types and styles. The textile also comes in different varieties of colors, designs, and patterns, and it is a ceremony garment that is usually worn on special events like chieftaincy title, marriage ceremony, naming ceremony, traditional celebrations, and some other essential event (Adémúlèyá, 2015; Adenle, 2016). From the time when no Yoruba traditional wedding could take place without the couple dressing in gorgeous ASO-OKE, the production of it becomes inevitably profitable as the demand is very high. ASO-OKE, no doubt, is a refined African tradition fabric that best survives on locally produced cotton threads.

By and large, it has and will continue to be a lucrative business not only for Nigeria's adornment use but also as an alternative revenue source even for the working class and the Government in general. Unlike the olden days when the business of ASO-OKE was practiced within the family circle, some youth who are still in schools find the job very rewarding, believing that the weaving business is more profitable than searching for white-collar jobs.

3.7. Production of ASO-OKE - Process and Tools

There are two sides to the production of ASO-OKE, the conventional production method and the modern way of production. Traditional production is the process whereby the traditional form of weaving is being used. Everything is done manually in the production of ASO-OKE from the material sorting stage to the final stage, which is weaving. This process is rooted in the Yoruba people's forefathers by passing the indigenous knowledge down to their children and later widely spread from one generation to another (Olutayo et al., 2017). The modern production process of ASO-OKE, on the other hand, is the process that involves the use of indigenous technology made of indigenous knowledge and some other modern

machinery. The production of ASO-OKE through this process results from innovation and technology change in the industry (Modupe & Olaosebikan, 2018).

➢ Conventional Method of Production

Material sourcing is the first stage in the production of ASO-OKE. The essential raw material is cotton, silks, fibers, and dyes. These materials are either locally sourced or brought in from another part of Nigeria, such as Hausa land as well as imported from Tunisia, Italy, and France. Cotton is the essential raw material in ASO-OKE production because it is used in making the strings (thread) used in weaving ASO-OKE. No doubt, the ASO-OKE production process depends heavily on the farmers as the procedure starts with cotton plantation (Olutayo & Fadina, 2011).

In the conventional process where cotton is source locally, the process is long and labour intense. This means that, the cotton is firstly processed to thread through some processes called sorting and spinning (Belladmin, 2019); a process where most of the unnecessary, i.e., dirt plant that comes with the cotton during harvest is separated from the cotton balls and then pass down for spinning to make into thread (Arunagiri, 2017; Belladmin, 2019). On the other hand, spinning is the process of converting the sorted cotton into thread through the use of a conventional bowl like-instrument called “orun” in Yoruba known as Spindler. Simultaneously, the weaver continuously spins the Spindler for an extended period; this process is gradually diminishing the cotton into a thinning thread of “Yarn”. Yarn is a consistent strand of cotton twisted together. This is done consistently and repeatedly until all the cotton has been spanned (Belladmin, 2019). After these processes, the weaver might want to dye the thread into the desired color of their or their customer's choice conventionally.

Weaving is the final stage in the ASO-OKE production. It is a process in which twofold establishes or forms of yarns tangled collectively to create a fabric by an indigenous technological machine known as loom (Akinwonmi, 2011). The loom is a machine for weaving and comprised of bars fixed set up to hold various parallel strings in two sets, rotating with one another. The square wood used to help the filling strand through the twist is known as the “shuttle.” There are various types of weaving looms that can be use by the weaver, but the hand and treadle loom, which are operated by hand and feet, are commonly used among Oyo State weavers in the production of ASO-OKE (Ismail & Alaka, 2005).

According to Olajide & Joseph (2009), conventional weavers used the most two common long-established looms when manufacturing ASO-OKE. The first one is an upstanding single and sole heddle loom, otherwise called the “broadloom” (which made for women and used only by them). It is a static and vertical traditionally made apparatus in which twist is apprehended underneath the strain, with around thirty to ninety centimetres width to permit a few pieces sewed together to make a wrapper (known as iro in Yoruba) for ladies.

The second one is Twofold Heddle Loom. It is a flat loom with the unwoven twist yarns. The loom produces portions of woven textures around fourteen to fifteen centimetres broad; the textures are then sliced along with edge sewed simultaneously to make a bigger bit of material that can be utilised for garments (Olajide & Joseph, 2009).

➢ Modern Method of Production

Innovation and technology have changed Nigeria's indigenous textile industry, both in the process and design. The use of technological machinery in fabric production has brought a slight change to the industry regarding quantity, quality, and timesaving. The conventional way of production is known to be labour-intense, even the industry in general (Ismail & Alaka, 2005). The introduction of technology began as early as 1966. It became obvious in 1990 that weavers promptly acknowledged the new yarns and modern dye presented by the British exchanging firms, as cited in Olajide & Joseph (2009).

The production process of ASO-OKE became shorter. The material needed in the production is easier for the source by introducing imported yarn and various types of modern looms such as shuttle apparatus loom, projectile apparatus loom, rapier loom apparatus, and water jet loom apparatus. The imported yarn is used instead of locally sourced yarn that involves a series of processes. The introduction and establishment of the below-mentioned imported machines and yarns have created a substantial change in the ASO-OKE shape, visual as well as textural characteristics (Olajide & Joseph, 2009), and less labour.

Through the help of indigenous loom, the modern loom was designed during the industrial revolution, where mass production is required. At the beginning of modern loom resolution, there are four major classifications of looms; projectile, jet, shuttle, rapier as it is cited in Ismail & Alaka (2005). Their study furtherly confirms that some of these group loomed are no longer in use because of their low weaving capacity. Although the modern loom has gone through significant modification over the years, it still uses basic weaving procedures by shedding, picking, and beating, as indicated in Charles & Abrahart (2017). A few new sorts of loom have come into modern use, while the older ones have been refined, and their scope has been expanded (Charles & Abrahart, 2017).

Through the intervention of innovation and technology into the textile industry in Nigeria, the beginning of production process is almost the final stage in the conventional production process era. All materials are ready-made and imported from a developed country. For instance, back then, weavers need to dye the ASO-OKE to suitable colour. Still, weavers buy any type of yarn type to make a particularly ASO-OKE and begin the weaving process with any type of modern loom. Although, Olutayo & Fadina (2011), in their study, confirm the effect of this change in the industry on the primary performers, i.e., farmer, spinner, and dyers, as they are no longer needed in the industry, which force them to venture into another

business. Previous research shows that the innovative advancement in the industry of ASO- OKE has helped it to satisfy local demands and export markets, and the scope of the usage is broader.

3.8. ASO-OKE Types and Usage

Customarily, three major types of ASO-OKE have been well recognised for many decades in Yorubaland (Etu - Striped Dark Blue, Alaari - Crimson, and Sanyan - Carton Brown with White Stripes) with numerous varieties.

First, “Etu” is a kind of conventional fabric incorporated with a blue striped and white striped. On antiquated occasions, “Etu” was utilized as an essential social dress by the boss and older folks among the Yoruba.

Alaari is the second type of ASO-OKE. Alaari is a dark redish shade. It is generally and commonly knitted along with privately silk yarns coloured. The utilisation of alaari is typically not restricted to a specific function; however, customarily used for all occasions among the Yoruba’s in Nigeria.

Sanyan is the third and most expensive Yoruba hand-woven texture. Customarily, it is created from filaments, using the sheaths of the anaphia silk warm. Sanyan – the carton brown with white stripes is viewed as the most luxurious of all ASO-OKE; hence, people allude to it as a father of cloths (called Baba-Aso in Yoruba).

ASO-OKE usage is not limited to a specific gender or age. For instance, Yoruba women and young ladies use ASO-OKE in various ways (such as for a casual purpose or ceremonial function). Some research also shows that ASO-OKE has been saved for extraordinary events where the proper ceremonial and honourable dressing is necessary and mandatory. Women also use the fabric as support (known as Oja in Yoruba) to back and lash toddlers, shawl (called Iborun), the head-tie (termed Gele in Yoruba), and wrapper (termed Iron). In contrast, Yoruba men and young lad also make use of ASO-OKE on antiquated occasions, likewise for social purposes, religious purposes, and conventional functions. ASO-OKE is exceptionally esteemed as an uncommon present for noble individuals (Adenle, 2016).

4. DATA ANALYSIS AND FINDINGS

The study findings are presented based on the research question in this section. These questions were answered with evidence from respondents with the use of direct quotes, as well as strong comments. The method used in deriving these concrete evidence and quotations in this study is extensively discussed in chapter 3. The study investigates how indigenous women entrepreneurs in developing countries adapt to the industry transformation. It presents a comprehensive analysis and how these women go through this significant transformation, the challenges and the opportunities perceived as they attempt to adapt to the change. Prior to the main data collection time, my visit to the research area gave me a better understanding of the ASO-OKE textile industry and the study research questions.

Important information about the Nigerian women entrepreneurs in the ASO-OKE business was obtained from eleven (11) women through the interview, among which six (6) out of them produce and vends ASO-OKE. In contrast, four (4) out of the remaining women make the AS-OKE only for other vendors to sell, and the remaining woman sells ASO-OKE only. All these profiles were used in this study because they all provided the answer to the research questions, which are: How do indigenous women entrepreneurs adapt to industry transformation? How do they perceive new opportunities during such transformation? How does being a woman affect the adaptation to the transformation of the industry? Based on their answers to these research questions, four aggregate dimensions were identified, which includes trends and transformation, curtailments as a result of the transformation, direct and indirect prospect, and internal and external adaptivity support.

4.1. Trends and Transformation

This dimension is the core element upon which every three (3) other dimensions rest. It expressed the interviewee's significant modifications and trends in the ASO-OKE business. This change and trend occur due to alteration in the designs, more colourful and fashionable ASO-OKE, which also led to change in customer. Eventually, the usage scope is also expanded. Therefore, the interviewees emphasised two significant changes.

4.1.1. Change in Production Design

The change in production design sub-dimension articulates the women entrepreneur's first significant reason to adapt to the latest development in their businesses. There were indications that the availability of more designs in today's business than the previous ASO-

OKE business, where there were fewer designs. The need and struggle to the new standard of doing indigenous textile (ASO-OKE) business is essential since the data furtherly revealed ASO-OKE production no longer uses only cotton thread for its production but many more modern threads.

For instance, there is a silky ASO-OKE, which is made of silky yarn. Embellishment and enhancement of ASO-OKE with beads and a combination of some other material such as lace and Ankara also triggered the trends, thus the Adaptation. Also, the variation in the consistency (thick, thin, or medium) of the industrial thread use in making yarn makes ASO- OKE more manageable for further handling hence call for the women to adapt to the change in the business in other to remain in the business.

Table 3. Change in production design.

Quotes Codes Sub-theme

“ ASO-OKE is no longer plain like before, now we enhance it in many ways. For example, I stone

(sequined) it to make it more beautiful for the customers” Embellished (Interviewee K) /silky ASO- “Some customers want their ASO-OKE beaded, so I OKE after weaving will, I use special gum and iron or a special

machine to gum the bead on the cloth….some customers want their ASO-OKE ” Interviewee E)

“Before our grandmas use the only cotton then for ASO- OKE but now there are more ways to produce ASO-

OKE…example is silk or demarks Aso-oke” (Interviewee G)

“ I make aso-oke with different colours…. Some Change in customers might want two tones ( two colour combined) product design Two/many or sometimes more colour” (Interviewee H) tones ASO- OKE

“Of course I make ASO-OKE that look like lace (another type of Nigerian fabric with holes and nets); we just use Handcut or some special instruments cut and create the suitable laser cut ASO- holes the customer want, but I do mine manually with OKE soldering iron because I can not afford the laser machine for now” (Interviewee D)

4.1.2. Change in Usage

Change in the usage of ASO-OKE was the second thing expressed by the interviewees. Aside from the general use as a traditional outfit for a wedding, naming ceremony, and funeral, the interviewees indicated that ASO-OKE is now used as material to make some other products. This occurs as a result of the availability of more manageable and fashionable ASO- OKE. The lighter version of it makes it possible to use other items such as shoes.

Table 4. Change in usage.

Quotes Codes Sub-theme

“It is not common, but so sophisticated people order for ASO-OKE to make curtains “ (Interviewee D) Use as “I could remember 2018 I got some other from one of the household

prestigious monarchs (name withheld) to weave ASO- material OKE with the traditional method for him to make curtains and living coach…. he wanted an olden days interior

decoration for his palace but with a modern touch” (Interviewee H)

“One of my customers has ordered for silky ASO-OKE for herself and her friends to make bra-top and short for Use as lingerie Change in her bridal shower” (Interview E) material usage

“Even it surprises me when some people still believe ASO-OKE is strictly for a wedding or any other Use as raw ceremonial events …..like a funeral or traditional material monarch coronation, but now I do have orders from customers who use it to make bags, shoe” (Interviewee K)

In summary, the trends and transformation dimension express the main factors that triggered the adaptation for the women entrepreneurs under study. This dimension is more like a cyclic that starts from a point and ends on the same point because the quest to satisfy the fashion trends of their customers and the competitions that comes with it resulting in the availability of more manageable, beautiful, and embellished designs of the indigenous textile (ASO-OKE). This automatically expands the scope of ASO-OKE usage, which was previously

limited to ceremonial to other areas like household raw material. The high demand impeded more pressure; hence the women seek proper adaption process to remain gainfully in the business.

4.2. Curtailments as a Result of Transformation

This expresses the women entrepreneur's numerous challenges due to change in all business areas, ranging from product and production process, the business, and the ASO- OKE industry in general. They all agreed that there are some avoidable and unavoidable challenges in their business due to change. The majority of the responses expressed that some of these challenges were not related to the everyday challenges known to be faced by other women entrepreneurs. However, the real curtailment emanates from the product design, the production process, the business, and being a women entrepreneur.

4.2.1. Deficiency of Tangible and Intangible Resources

The interviews expressed some hindrance in all aspects of their business. However, some occur as a result of their personal decision. For instance, the production method was a source of hindrance. This implies that the everyday challenges during the production of ASO- OKE depend on the technique used, starting from material sourcing down to the weaving process. Often, these decisions also depend on customer specifications. An example of this is an exceptional order from a prestigious monarch where the conventional method of production can be specifically asked to be used by the customers

According to the interviewees, the conventional production method of ASO-OKE requires the yarn's production from scratch, i.e., from cotton spinning to make yarn stage to the final weaving. A separate individual mostly does each step in a thread made in a remote area of Nigeria. Therefore, time constrain is majorly expressed by the interviewee as one of their challenges. Also, some indications described capital as one of their challenge from their response. The rapid change in the business call for ASO-OKE production in Advance to resolve some of the limited time constraints.

Another evidence indicated in the interviewee's response as one of their challenges was finding and keeping an apprentice. The majority of the interviewee's responses indicated a shortage of staff as their primary challenge because the production of ASO-OKE is a bit tedious process, which is almost impossible to carry out alone. The interviewee's conclusive evidence in this theme was an inevitable problem beyond the interviewee's capacity to control. Their responses aggressively indicated weather, delivery, transportation, and the power supply problem as the core challenges in their business's day-to-day running.

Table 5. Deficiency of Tangible and Intangible resources

Quotes Codes Sub-theme

“Although there are ready-made thread we still need to spin it into yarn … (Interviewee J)

“ASO-OKE is tedious and time-consuming… for instance, I unravel the yarn, or I ask someone to Time constraints release the thread as I weave...unlike weaving machine where yarn releases by itself (Interviewee G)

“As I said earlier, the modern method means using a ready-made thread and some other materials... So we buy as many as possible different colors of Deficiency of Capital threads and weave in Advance for customers to Tangible and constraints select. This required capital to have ready enough - Intangible made threads and ASO-OKE for customers to select resources from ” (Interviewee I)

“Nowadays it is more difficult to find workers (weavers) especially among the younger ones….they are not ready to sit in a place for long whereas, weaving ASO-OKE requires sitting for a long period” (Interviewee E)

“No weaver can say she weaves alone. Otherwise he or she will not meet up with order…. except she Apprentice weaves in advance… because of this hired weavers demand high wages or threaten to leave” (Interviewee C)

"Often I have to deal with power supply problem during embellishment process because I use

soldering iron to cut some pattern on the ASO-OKE

manually" (Interviewee B) Inevitable/ "Most time I have transportation problem during infrastructural product handling and delivery even material finding contraints because I sometimes receive orders from another city" (Interviewee D)

“Raining season is every weaver's nightmare…(we both smile)….. I weave in Advance to satisfy my customers, and if I have to weave, I tell my customer to get ready to wash the cloth before using it “ (Interviewee H)

4.2.2. Product Protection Unfairness

This sub-theme expressed the interviewees' constraints in protecting their personalised design and styles in the ASO-OKE production. There was evidence indicated that no law or enforcement is in place to protect individual creativity. This implies, no one owns a particular design even if the rightful creator of the design invested some amount of money in the creation. This often results in money loss for the rightful owner because the particular design can be ordered from other weavers who directly copy the new design. However, there was substantial evidence in the interviewees' responses that postulates that all these women are guilty of this act since no specific definition of rightful owner exists.

Table 6. Product Protection Unjust.

Quotes Codes Sub-theme

“I don’t necessarily own a design… although I try my best to create my uniques design if there are another

specific design and styles the customer wants at a

particular time I have no choice than to produce it “ (interviewee C) Copy and paste Product delinquent “There was a time one of my apprentices disclosed my Protection Unjust yet to release designs to the other weavers … I planned

to release the designs during the festive period or later in the year when there will be more customers to buy

…but unfortunately other weavers launch the design before, and I lose drastically” (interviewee I )

“To me its nothing --besides its hard to pinpoint who is copying who because the original owner of the designs

are usually unknown” (interviewee A) No one is guilty “ I copy peoples designs they copy mine----I don’t think there is rightful owner, I only own design right before it is being released to the public ---- once It Is release I have no control over it anymore” (interviewee G)

4.2.3. Emotional and Psychological Disparity

This theme expressed the effect of the business on the interviewees personally. Furthermore, it stated the interviewees' struggles in the course of carrying out or doing their daily business activities. The first evidence indicated was the struggles between the family and work. Having enough time to cater to the family and the business at the same time remains one of the significant challenges they face as a woman in the business of ASO-OKE, which requires much time and attention. Moreover, lack of personal time was also expressed.

Table 7. The emotional and psychological disparity

Quotes Codes Sub-theme

“ I can't even remember when last sit together with my family to joke, have fun since I am always busy

with either weaving at the workshop or cutting of Limited family time ASO-OKE with soldering Iron to make a hand-cut pattern, tagging beads or even stoning” (Interview

“ I can't remember when last I cook for the family The emotional ….my husband understand the nature of the Lacking in Family and business, sometimes I don’t even have time for Responsibility psychological anything else than to meet up with the order disparity deadline” (Interviewee F)

“I make good ASO-OKE for different occasions, which I have no time to attend one… I am always No or Limited busy doing something with ASO-OKE” Personal Time (Interviewee A)

In summary, this dimension showed the women entrepreneur's challenges in the process of adapting to the transformation in their business. Three (3) main problems were identified by these women. The first category of their challenges was a shortage of tangible such as apprentice and intangible such as power supply. These women struggle to find a suitable apprentice to fulfil their large volume of orders and power supply in the process of embellishments or at the time of overnight product production for quick order.

Product design protection unjust was another problem expressed in this dimension. It explains the women entrepreneurs lack property rights protection on their personalised design, which subjected them to early designer disadvantage as the later designer of the same product gets the credibility. The last challenges expressed were emotional and psychological disparity, which explain the women's struggles in terms of family and personal time as the busy and tedious nature of their business act as a hindrance to them psychologically and emotionally.

4.3. Direct and Indirect Prospects

This dimension showed the women entrepreneur’s opportunities perceived in the cause of doing their business during the adaption to the transformation and trends. The evidence gathered indicated two ends from which the possibilities are perceived: Internal and external ends. The internal perspective showed the opportunities the interviewees perceived personally from doing their business. In contrast, the external perspective showed the opportunities perceived in their immediate environment in carrying out their business. The table below shows some quotes from the interviewees indicating their views.

4.3.1. Personal and Individual Benefit

This dimension showed the advantage that co-exists with the transformation in their business. Surprisingly, the interviewees expressed massive sales opportunities due to change in product design and usage. The availability of a series of designs, a combination of other materials with ASO-OKE such as lace, and ASO-OKE embellishment such as stoning, has made the business twice or trice more profitable than before, more significant financial opportunities are perceived.

Also, the chance to make a financial contribution as a woman in the family expenses was emphasised. They similarly see the act of making an impromptu decision in their fast- changing business as an opportunity to make a strategic decision in their lives in general. Finally, the interview postulated the chance of being an exemplary model that guide and tutor the younger women into the business of ASO-OKE.

Table 8. Personal and Individual Benefit

Quotes Codes Sub-themes

" The development of new designs has brought more profit to the business, as long as the design is beautiful, unique and trendy, people are

willing to pay more” (Interviewee J) Great financial

opportunity "I embellished ASO-OKE with stones, to make twice or trice profit more" (Interviewee K)

" I make more profit. I can do all sorts with ASO-OKE because I am crafty (Interviewee H) " I have been given the opportunity to tutor some students in one of

the secondary school here during their entrepreneurship workshop”

(Interviewee C) Opportunity to “I don’t know if you can see those two-lady weaving there. (showing me guide others some girls during the video call) they are not my workers; they are here Personal

to learn how to make ASO-OKE (Interviewee J) and individual benefit

" Being a weaver and a vendor has helped me to be smarter when making decisions because the trendy pattern or design trends comes Good decision- and goes so fast, any excessive production can result to a great loss" making skills (Interviewee E)

“ Before weavers are usually seen like a poor, and uneducated follow but as you can see that’s not the case here, as you can see even Self-abundancy from the workshop setting (smile) … I can afford anything I want” (interview C)

4.3.2. Opportunity from Network

Benefit from the network is another issue that was revealed by the data. The data showed that, there was an indication that some external systems were established by the government and some philanthropists aiming to finance entrepreneurship in Nigeria. An example of this was the industry bank, as mentioned by interviewee B during the interview. The bank of the industry is a government developmental institute where entrepreneurs can acquire a working capital loan with reasonable terms of reimbursement. Likewise, some helpful initiatives provide financial benefits to sustain the business and give some tips to maintain a business.

Table 9. Opportunity from Network

Quotes Codes Sub-themes

“Yeah …we have many ways to fund our business but the common and easy one to access is Bank of

Industry that’s government-owned “…all those private Bank of Industry funding requires to know someone that knows some ” ( interviewee J) Opportunity “Sometimes African women (AWAP) entrepreneurship from Network program organise educating forum, funds, mentorship Helpful initiatives and even training (interviewee A )

In summary, this dimension showed the women entrepreneur's internal and external opportunities perceived during the adaptation and transformation process. The opportunities come in the form of personal and individual benefits as well as supportive networks from the environments within which their business operates. A few of these opportunities are self- abundancy, good decision-making skills, and helpful initiatives.

4.4. Internal and External Adaptivity Support

The internal and external adaptivity support dimension showed the women entrepreneur's adaptation process to the transformational trends in the indigenous textile business (ASO-OKE). This dimension postulates women's unique and individual effort in adapting to the current rapid change in their business. Furthermore, it reveals that adjusting to the industry's change requires individual capacity and strong will to succeed. Although, these are backed up with the general motivation of their business. The women demonstrated that, their strong will to adapt to the industry's change also depends on their key drive to remain an ASO-OKE entrepreneur. And the initial reason that made them venture into the 47

business was their family background, monetary achievement, personal or life experience, and economic development.

4.4.1. Individual Proactiveness

Diving into the details on how they cope personally with the trends, the interviewee showed some personal traits. These traits enable them to respond to the pressure arising from the transformation. One of these traits is the ability to forecast and work up-front to meet customer’s order expectations as well as staying well informed with the latest trends both in design and in the enhancement process of ASO-OKE. They furtherly expressed that the pressure to produce in a short time is not avoidable but can be minimised by exercising “F, P, and A” (forecast and produce in advance) just as it was said by the interviewee D.

There was a reliable indication that, creativity remains one of the core ways to adapt to the pressure. Creating unique and personal designs enables customers to pick from varieties of ready-made ASO-OKE without hesitation. Therefore, making considerable sales in return. Also, their unique ability to spring back even when a newly designed product is not doing well in the market, as indicated in their responses as part of how they adapt to the transformational pressure. They choose not to dwell in the loss. Instead, they keep trying more new designs with a strong belief to be rewarded with a best-selling design.

Another evidence expressed by the interviewees as a way they adapt to the transformation in the ASO-OKE business is the ability to work nonstop due to large orders. This implies the capacity to take on another job immediately after finishing one job without a break.” Even if it requires to sleep at the place of work” (Interviewer F).

Table 10. Individual Proactiveness

Quotes Codes Sub-themes

“ Yeah, ASO-OKE business is more than sitting in the workshop weaving now…I make sure I know about what is in vogue before

others weavers here…. because the trend comes and goes so

fast….and the faster I get to know about what is selling, the more money I make and less shortage.” (interviewees G) Well-informed and willingness “ I have no choice as long as I don’t want to disappoint my to adjust customers…..no matter how difficult the new design may seem to

be to produce…. I try my best to come up with something…

sometimes I even travel to learn about the products in vouge” (Interviewee I)

“ I look through my ground parents photo album for old design ….

I Just added some modern touch to it” (Interviewee H)

“ I make different designs and even in my final touches because I

had always known being creative is the only way to make money in Individual

this business, especially now that there are many people in the Proactiveness business….I could remember huge order I got based on the special design I made for my traditional wedding….throughout that year…

customers were referring to my personal design” ( Interviewees C)

“Sometimes, I don’t need to make a completely new design. It could just be a better version of one of my old designs or even another Strong creativity design I come across somewhere”(Interviewees H ) game

“If you examine today’s ASO-OKE business, you will realize that he who is creative can last longer in the industry, and that is precisely what has been keeping me going and stay motivated. I was initially not interested in the business, but my mother-in-law realised how creative I was and decided to introduce me to the business. Ever since then, I have been doing well in the business (interviewee B)

“ My work is my work whether the product is selling current or not…I still have to keep on doing what I know how to do best because the Resilience Spirit customer will always buy them sooner or later … although the profit might be limited, profit is a profit. (Interviewee H)

4.4.2. Constant Training and Education

The interviewees stated that learning new things and being well educated in their job is another way of adapting to the latest trend in the industry of ASO-OKE. This way, they can catch up with their proactiveness strategy in meeting their numerous customer’s needs and help them stay in the competition. They use different platforms to educate themselves to stay ahead and pressure ready. For instance, there was an indication that the interviews attended local weavers’ meetings where tutoring and minor training are organised to update designs, materials, and even tools (interviewee G). Local weavers meeting remains one of the oldest ways of educating each other about the latest styles and designs. “At this meeting, weavers discuss practically everything pertaining to ASO-OKE” (interviewees G). The younger ones 49

among the interviewees expressed the use of social media platforms to train and educate themselves, after which they also create their designs with the knowledge acquired.

Another evidence expressed by the interviewees was the effort to acquire training online because of time or long-distance constraints. This training is mostly not free and is mainly offered by the inventors on the trending designs and styles.

Table 11. Constant Training and Education

Quotes Codes Sub-theme

“ Yeah, training is very much available for who can afford it, but as for me, I watch some on youTube” (Interviewee B) “ Social media/ “It might sound funny, but I do learn too through the local weavers meeting Constant weaver's association.” (Interviewee G) training Training and Education

“ I use to attend distance training online when there is a particular design I need to know from a vendor from another Online training city…. you know different states with different unique pattern and design” (Interviewee C)

In summary, the internal and external adaptivity support dimension showed the women entrepreneurs method of adapting to the process of transformation. Their individual readiness and willingness to learn new things within a short period of time has been served as a great support through the transformation. Finding solution to problems in response to the trends in their business as well as attending some educational classes online also possess excellent support.

4.5. Adaptation Model and Summary

As the analysis method implies, the analysis findings lead to a model (see figure 21 below) that best describes the subject in question. There are four (4) dimensions in the model; this model best explains the women entrepreneur’s situation (in the ASO-OKE business) during the massive change in the textile industry.

Transformation and trend are the first dimension of the model. This dimension showed the change in the textile business. The difference in the product designs and usage of the product bestows pressure on women entrepreneurs to be vast in their designing skills, which calls for these women to adapt to the situation in order to remain in the business. Therefore, this dimension significantly serves as the datum upon which the internal and

external adaptivity dimension depends as it divulges the exact reason the women in the business of indigenous textile need to adapt.

The second dimension is the internal and external adaptivity. This dimension is the primary datum upon which every other comment is referred to, as it tells how women manage the pressure that arises from the first dimension (transformation and trend). The adaptation of these women begins with their personal motivation that led them into the business initially, and their firm determination to stay in the business play a significant and considerable role in their adaptation process. The capability to adapt to the variations from the first dimension strongly depends on the women's individuals proactiveness and willingness to constantly training and educate on trends as well as the latest in the industry. Their creativity game, well- informed, resilience spirit to attend special designing classes, local weavers meeting as well as fashion show play a crucial role in their adaptation to the industry transformation. All these are push factors for these women to sustain the pressure.

The third dimension is curtailment as a result of the transformation. This dimension is directly affected by the second dimension and indirectly affected by the first dimension. The pressure that arises indirectly from many customers to serves as a result of the availability of more manageable, colour, and fashionable ASO-OKE, as well as the direct pressure to learn new things and being creative, determines the variation of this dimension. The more the customer's thirst for the trendy designs, the more the time and capital required to quench the thirst. Also, the more the problem of finding helping hands and some other difficulties, the more these women are likely to lack their family responsibilities as a wife and a mother, as well as limited time to take care of their personal needs.

The final dimension, which is direct and indirect prospects is also indirectly affected by the second dimension and directly affected by the third dimension. As the pressure from the first dimension (Transformation and trend) causes variation in the number of customers to serve, so the women entrepreneurs need to adapt (Internal and external adaptivity), so the curtailments the women experience. The opportunities perceived either in terms of financial opportunity, right decision-making skill or self-abundancy are also altered. The gain from the pain facing challenges in the cause of fulfilling the needs of their customers will be affected.

Figure 6. Transformational Adaptation Model of Women in ASO-OKE

5. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

The study investigates how indigenous women entrepreneurs in developing countries adapt to the industry transformation. It presents a comprehensive analysis of women entrepreneurship and how they go through this significant transformation, the challenges and the opportunities perceived as they attempt to adapt to the industry change. In addition, the study sheds more light on entrepreneurial adaptation and how the country's condition can utter the entrepreneurs experience and make them more prepared for any form of change in all aspects of their business. As stated in Tuominena et al., (2004) study, opportunities come along with a business change. The study also expands the knowledge of the various ways in which entrepreneurs in developing countries adapt their entrepreneurial activities during transformation to satisfy the emerging market.

The women entrepreneurs that were used in this study shared their views on the circumstances surrounding their adjustment to the change in their business. The ultimate objective of this study remains the same which was to give concrete answers to the research questions below:

• How do indigenous women entrepreneurs adapt to industry transformation?

• How do they perceive new opportunities during such transformation?

• How does being a woman affect the adaptation to the transformation of the industry?

The analysis of this study resulted in a four (4) dimensional model with internal and external adaptivity support in the middle. At the top of the model is the trend and transformation, which explain the need for adaptation. At the bottom are curtailments as a result of change and direct and indirect prospects.

The research on women entrepreneurs is not scarce but studies on women entrepreneurial adaptation is rare. Furthermore, studies on well-educated women entrepreneurs in indigenous product production in developing countries is scarce. Therefore, the results of this study present preliminary foundation that can be the basis for more theoretical expansions that explain entrepreneurial adaptational process for women entrepreneurs in developing countries. Correspondingly, more light was shed on the challenges and opportunities entrepreneurs perceive in Nigeria.

5.1. The Necessity of Adapting to Transformation

There are various reasons for entrepreneurial adaptation in newly established or existing businesses. In the case of an existing business, Tuominena et al. (2004) research acknowledged that, entrepreneurial adaptation occurs as a response to change in the business environment, threats, and opportunities. Likewise, in the case of a new venture, Pitt & Kannemeyer (2000) and Morris et al. (1999) studies claimed that, entrepreneurial adaptation occurs as a change to the main and core business concepts and also to the marketing strategies as the business evolves from the early stage. Women entrepreneurs examined in this study are best described by Tuominena et al. (2004) study. Their need to adapt was a result of change in their business and opportunities.

Looking further into the current literatures on women entrepreneurship and entrepreneurial activities adaptation during changes, there was an indication that entrepreneurs need to planned their strategic posture in the market (Tuominena,. 2004) to activate the transitioning of the phase of the adaptation process. To some extents, the women entrepreneurs interviewed in this study showed signs of starting their transition phase by redesigning their business to contain the new market. This involves learning about the current taste of their customer (new designs) and design unique models that correspond to the current fashion trends. As a result, they were able to manage the pressure of the fashion trends that comes from the wedding industry. This was possible for the women because of the initial motivation, personal proactiveness, and unique ability to adapt. However, the country's current state plays a significant, considerable and a huge role in the women entrepreneurs adaptivity level as the country's economy itself was not stable.

The women entrepreneurs examined in this study showed the traces of activating their transitioning with three (3) out of four (4) firms adaptivity abilities recommended by Tuominena et al. (2004) which are human, information, and financial buoyancy. During their adaptation process, they all used human resources to meet up with their target, gathered some useful information about the market needs, and acquires necessary skills with their capital. However, they do not actually explored technology as the fourth business adaptivity ability. The use of technology in their adaptivity process remained low as they invested in technology only to acquire information and education needed to serve their existing and emerging customer.

This shows that, they do not invest in any modern machinery in the production process; instead, they improvised. Ten (10) out of eleven (11) women that produces ASO-OKE fabric in this study use a traditional method to meet up with their customer standard (design trends) with the particular device (known as soldering iron). Although some of these women invested in small equipment or apparatus that cannot be replaced with traditional method. An example of this is a stoning machine, which the women use to embellish the fabric after production.

The internal adaptivity support (such as an entrepreneur's traits) and external adaptivity support (such as entrepreneurial environments) serve as unlimited support in their adaptation process. These ascertain the findings of Singh & Rahman (2013) which claimed, the characteristics of an entrepreneur along with the environment aspect where the business operates play a significant, considerable and a huge role in the success of the business in general.

In this study, the women entrepreneurs have strong creative sense and ambiguity tolerance, which are some of the entrepreneur's traits needed for a successful business, as mentioned by the scholars. They were creative enough to have had their personal innovative designed fabrics, and they also manage the pressure of many customers to serve, especially during the change period with their ambiguity tolerance spirit. The environment also provided them with the needed network to learn more about the change in the indigenous fabric production business as soon as possible. All these contributed to the adaptation of the eleven (11) women entrepreneurs that have taken part and interviewed in this study.

In the case of the effect of being a woman on the adaptation process, there was no specific barrier to the women in this study. However, many research papers on women entrepreneurs mainly in developing countries have shown otherwise. As claimed in Das (2001) study, women entrepreneurs with family are left with childcare and home management conflict barrier despite the change and gender equality advocacy. His study furtherly specified that women entrepreneurs’ partners usually are not helpful during their wife’s engagement in a commercial activity and anticipated them to involved in the household duties, irrespective of their business pressures.

Nevertheless, in this study, women entrepreneurs understudy discredited this statement, as the husband and immediate family were a great support system for them during the adaptation. However, the unemployment and poverty rate has made owning a business a norm for most family women in Nigeria in general. Therefore, no such barrier that was capitalised by these women as their immediate family that could be affected by their business's nature had already seen the barrier as part of the business process.

5.2. Recognising Opportunities and Dealing with Transformational Challenges

The entrepreneurial opportunity has always been a reward to entrepreneurs who can reorganised the method they use and form new means, markets, and unique goods or services Eckhardt & Shane (2003), especially during transformation. The women entrepreneurs studied in this study similarly reorganised their method of serving their existing and emerging customers. Additionally, through their distinctive and exceptional creativity

traits, they produced outstanding product designs either by completely implementing new designs or updating outdated version designs. These brought great financial opportunities to the women entrepreneurs as one of their personal and individual benefits of change in their business.

However, the level of the opportunities perceived by these women varies accordingly. This confirmed Shane & Venkataraman (2000) research which acknowledged that, women entrepreneurs discovered and perceived opportunities differently. The level of information holds by these women to explore opportunity is crucial (such as information on trending designs) and the cognitive property (such as creativity and proactiveness) to transform that information into value is also paramount.

To some extent, the women in this study perceived some reasonable amount of opportunities, according to their hard work and smartness. These opportunities are not limited to financial breakthrough but also some other intangible opportunities (such as the unique skill of responding to uncertainty quickly). The pressure that co-exists with the business adaptation substantially improves women entrepreneurs (in this study) decision-making skills, which is useful in other aspects of these their lives. In addition, these women also guide others through their business and serve as a role model to other women who are willing to start a business or struggle to sustain their existing business. Ultimately, these women contribute to the family expenses; this debunks the general African belief that says, men of the house are the head of the family, therefore, they are the sole responsible for the family expense.

The indirect benefit perceived during entrepreneurial adaptation also worth mentioning. The opportunities that come from the women entrepreneur’s network also serve as enablers to these women's success stories. In developing countries, there are many studies on entrepreneurial networking (Chittithaworn et al., 2011) that focuses on access resources as an essential business success factor.

Knowledge and additional valuable information tends to become more productive via unofficial channels than official transfer through technology(Chittithaworn et al., 2011). The case is comparable to the women entrepreneurs in this study; they all belong to one social network or the other. This implies that they all have access to relevant information and resources from their respective network to satisfy their customer needs during the trends and transformation of their business. Furthermore, for these women, the network provides access to insubstantial resources (such as advice, skills, knowledge as well as tangible resources such as finance).

Blake & Hanson (2005) research believed that, gender postulates some hindrance to the accessibility of the network composition and effectiveness, thereby making it difficult for the women entrepreneurs to access. Their research also pointed out that, women generally

have a propensity of smaller networks than men. The women entrepreneurs in this study, indeed belong to different social networks. Some of these women belong to what seems to be a minimal social network but very useful, while some of them belong to entrepreneurial network where every detail on how to manage a business successfully is their primary goal. This implies that big or small network, effectiveness prevails and helped the women in their adaptation process during the transformation and trends.

Aside from the opportunities perceived from individual networks in which these women belong to. There are some governmental initiatives intended for women entrepreneurs where they perceived greater opportunities. This initiative also provides women entrepreneurs with tangible resources (such as business capital) and intangible resources (such as education and training on business trends). However, according to the women entrepreneur’s stories in this study, these initiatives are not easily accessible compare to the individual entrepreneurial networks. This confirms the recommendation of David et al., (2016). In their research, numerous suggestions on how the government in developing countries can help women entrepreneurs turn possibilities into realities. Few of these are equal access and right to training, mentorship, guidance as well as education, and equal access to gender-neutral resources. For the women in this study, there was preconception about the accessibility of opportunities provided by the government to boost their businesses; four (4) out of eleven (11) of these women tried the initiatives, two (2) were failed while two (2) were succeeded, other did not give it a trial as a result of numerous failure in the application process. Instead, they focus on their direct network.

Challenges faced by these women during the transformation also worth discussing. Most studies on women entrepreneurship often analyse entrepreneurial opportunities alongside challenges because they both co-exist. Indeed, the indigenous textile industry's changes were recognised opportunities that eventually led to specific perceived opportunities for the indigenous businesswomen. Women entrepreneurs under this study also faced some challenges, most especially in their business production process phase.

There are numerous studies on challenges encountered by the women entrepreneurs in the cause of doing their businesses. A few of the recent research are the studies conducted by Brush et al. (2010), Carmen Niethammer (2013), Mandipaka (2014), and Ikharehon (2016). Mainly in their studies, the direct factors such as business capital, access to raw material, lack of financial assistance from public and private agencies, and indirect factors such as bad governance, corruption, and inadequate infrastructures were extensively analysed as hindrances to women entrepreneur’s business success. In this study, the case is similar but not completely. The women entrepreneu’s stories in this study showed business capital as one of the main hindrances to their business, especially during the transformation where large

customers are being served, the need to produce products in advance, and large quantities to meet up with the target are required.

The lack of access to enough capital to acquire some modernised expensive equipment or apparatus that can shorten and ease the tedious long production process was capitalised in this study. Although some of these women produced the textile traditionally out of their will, this was due to their general belief of the indigenous textile quality retention as the new modernised machinery tends to reduce the qualities of the indigenous textile.

Nevertheless, the stories of seven (7) out of eleven (11) women purely showed the willingness to modernise some of their production processes if not completely replaced with modern machinery. This challenge serves as a core that brought about another challenge, such as time constraint to the women entrepreneurs in this study; they struggled to balance regular working hours and overtime as they worked mostly day and night to fulfil their customers’ needs on a regular basis. As a result of work overload, these women experience a shortage of staff that helps manual production. Extra payments and bonuses became a strategy among the weavers to keep their apprentice; otherwise, adapting to the pressure could have been impossible.

The intellectual and property right is another significant challenge for women entrepreneurs in the business of indigenous textile production. David et al. (2016) recommended that the biased on the women entrepreneurs' intellectual and property rights should be re-examined. Indeed, women entrepreneurs in this study are all victims of copyright. There was no law or enforcement that protect individual creativity; Personal created designs are easily copied by other producers directly or indirectly. As a result of this, the copyright owners are subjected to early producer loss because other producers that copied the designs ended having more sale than the original creator of the designs.

The lack of rules and regulations that govern the ownership of specific designs makes all women entrepreneurs presented in this study guilty of copyright. According to their stories, the effect is not limited to financial loss alone but also restricts the women's creative skills as most of these women prefer to wait for other producers to design something new to copy rather than creating unique designs of their own. Instead, they add a little creative touch to the copied design. This challenge, in particular, is rarely discussed in women entrepreneurship or entrepreneurship research in general. Although, there are some recommendations asking scholars to re-examine the biased intellectual and property right of women entrepreneurs as the attention given was not as equal as that of the male entrepreneurs. Nevertheless, lots is still yet to be said about intellectual right for women entrepreneurs which remain one of the significant challenges of the women in this study.

The other challenges these women faced during their adaptation process was emotional and psychological disparity. The business overwhelming and ambiguous nature resulting from change and transformation in the industry put the women in psychological and emotional distress. Numerous studies on women entrepreneurship confirmed that, several women entrepreneurs struggles in balancing their home and work life. This can be related to Das (2001) study which stressed the expected responsibility of women entrepreneurs with family as child-carers and home managers; the lack of personal time and family time makes these women emotionally stressed.

According to their stories, eight (8) out of eleven (11) respondents were usually down psychologically because of the vast slack in their family responsibilities, even though their husbands are not complaining. Still, the general belief of African women's sole responsibility is to take care of the children at least. Although most of the respondents had the situation under control by hiring carers for their children and homes. Yet. the lack of time for their personal life and families remains one of the effects of the transformation in their business.

5.3. Minor Shift in Assumption in the Previous Literature

The shift in the previous literature assumption on the challenge’s women entrepreneurs face is another crucial point worth discussing as the stories of women entrepreneurs in this study indicates a different view. The opportunities perceived and the challenges encountered is expected to be greater during the adaptation period. Yet, in this study, some of the difficulties initially recognised by previous scholars disappeared. According to Boden (2000) and Bhardwaj (2014), insufficient access to entrepreneurial education and training as being the most significant impediments women entrepreneurs face in developing nations.

Mandipaka (2014) and Liimatainen (2002) concluded in their studies that inadequate access to entrepreneurial education as well as business training remains one of the substantial hurdles confronting women entrepreneurs, especially in developing countries. In this study, the reverse is the case; women have full access, especially to necessary education and training needed to acquire proper business adaptation skills, thanks to the technology and social media platform that serves as a connector that connects these women to wherever training could be sorted out. Although some of these skills are sometimes not free, they are available for all women entrepreneurs who are willing to acquire more skills.

It is evident in this study that the degree of education of the respondents plays a significant role in their skill acquiring process; even though all of these women studied something not completely related to the entrepreneurship or the product production business, they were still able to look out for suitable education and training to sustain their businesses, perhaps the respondent education background is a good reason for the disappearance of

"insufficient education and training " challenge identified in the numerous previous studies on women entrepreneurship.

Furthermore, the lack of marketing problems that was part of the crucial challenges in various studies on women entrepreneurship disappeared in this study. The women entrepreneur’s stories in this study have revealed social media platforms as a great marketing place for their products; besides, the wedding industry trends in this study's scope area make the products needs little or no marketing to sell the products.

5.4. Summary and Study Contribution

This study work "Women entrepreneurship and adaptation to industry transformation: The case of the indigenous textile industry (ASO-OKE) in Nigeria" documented the adaptational process of women entrepreneurs in the product production in developing countries. It shed lights on unattended questions regarding the adaptability, challenges, and opportunities women entrepreneurs in developing countries perceived as they adapt their business processes to fit the requirements of a changing industry.

The objectives of this study include understanding women in the indigenous product production in developing countries; clarify the mechanisms of their adaptability to challenges of advance in technologies and new demand; shed some lights on their work to build and maintain industry and assess the most effective approaches women entrepreneurs use to deal with challenges in the business. Based upon the objectives of this study, the underneath research questions were drawn; how do indigenous women entrepreneurs adapt to industry transformation? How do they perceive new opportunities during such transformation? And how does being a woman affect the adaptation to the transformation of the industry?

The instruments used in collecting relevant data for this study were in-depth interviews and field notes. During my visit, six (6) ASO-OKE weavers were interviewed, four (4) weavers and retailers who weave and sell to the end-users were also interviewed, and one (1) retailer who sells the product to the final consumers was interviewed. These women were randomly selected.

This study revealed similar opportunities and challenges women entrepreneurs face compared to the previous research on women entrepreneurs when there is no specific business transformation. Comparably, the results also revealed some shift in assumption, especially in the opportunities and challenges these women faced during the change and effect of being a woman on the adaptation process. Some new opportunities such as opportunity to acquire skills through social media surfaces, challenges such as lack of intellectual property right protection surfaces and challenges such as marketing problems and lack of education and training disappeared. 60

The scope of this study is Oyo State, Nigeria. This study significance covered various aspects, such as a sustainable business in the advent of change and adaptation management. Ultimately, this research study is essential to women entrepreneurship development, emphasising the textile (ASO-OKE) production industry. The study promotes and contributes to the preliminary, background, and existing literature in entrepreneurship and concentrates more on educated women in the indigenous textile production, rather than poor and uneducated women as seen in most previous research on the women entrepreneurship in developing economies.

The research also acted as a spur for further study to refine and extend the present study, especially in Nigeria. This research documentation has contributed knowledge to the body of literature in women entrepreneurship and change in entrepreneurial activities in developing countries and the production of indigenous textile in general.

5.5. Limitation and Future Study Recommendation

There are some limitations related to this research regarding the external validity of the study. Despite the limited and inadequate time availability for this study on women entrepreneurship and adaptation to industry transformation could be studied.

• The research focused on indigenous women entrepreneurs that involved themselves in the ASO-OKE (indigenous textile) production. Therefore, other indigenous businesses were not considered in the study. Suppose the study focus area also apply to women entrepreneurs in different indigeneous business and location rather than ASO-OKE and Oyo State only, more findings could be identify.

• The research applicability was relatively low since the study only focused its attention on a cluster of eleven (11) women entrepreneurs in the same geographical area, as mentioned in the methodological limitation. However, general applicability seems not the main focus for qualitative research, but the research topic relevancy is the most significant (Neuman, 2011).

• Since the study only choose eleven (11) women entrepreneurs in the indigenous textile business (ASO-OKE) with different focus background (weavers, weavers and retailers, and retailer) and year of experience (ranging from 3 years to ten years and above), there is a probability of an indication of how it seems to be for other women in the business of another indigenous textile in general.

• Since the study also used existing research to strengthen the finding; therefore, external validity is guaranteed.

• For the findings on indigenous women entrepreneurship to be more accurate and precise, especially in developing countries, it also requires and involves large participants.

In response to the limitations discussed above, this study recommends more respondents from various indigenous business for the future study; thus, the study could give a broad view of women adaptation process in indigenous business in general. Also, samples of women in the indigenous business from other parts of the states (such as Lagos State, Ogun State, Edo State, Kaduna State, and Kano State) or countries (such as Ghana, Kenya, Cameron, Togo, Congo among others) will expand or enhance the findings and provide more evidence on how women entrepreneur in developing countries adapt to the industry transformation.

The study interviews were done without direct field observation. As a result, most of the interviewees were not agreed to the video interview, which could at least provide more evidence that close to the direct field observation. I believed if the study were a field observation or video interview all through, it might offer more profound insight into these women adaptational process, their transformational survival management, and most importantly, how they cope with the change. Therefore, this study recommends that, the future studies should have access to the direct field observation to strengthening their findings. In addition, to cover some other reach details which are difficult to attain through a phone interview, participant observation is recommended for a detailed and a comprehensive future research.

Finally, there could be little effect of my knowledge about the phenomenon under study (indigenous textile business) which might have affected the interpretation of the interviewees' pieces of information. The fact that some of the interviews were also done in my native language might have subjected some of the vital information to the loss of meaning or misunderstood. This study was undertaken through the lens of women entrepreneurship in general, and conceivably if the future research could narrow down their lens to indigenous women entrepreneurship, the finding might be more affluent.

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APPENDICES

Appendix 1

Research question: How women producers adapt to transformation in the indigenous textile industry (fabric - ASO-OKE) in Nigeria Sub-questions: • What are the challenges the women face and how they cope? • What are the opportunities they perceive? • How does being a woman affect their adaptation to the transformation?

A) PERSONAL INFORMATION • Education • Age • Marital status B) BASIC INFORMATION • I would like to know about your business as an entrepreneur and how long you have been in the business • Could you please tell me how you emerge as an entrepreneur? • How long have you been doing this business? • What motivate you to venture into your own business? • Why the fabric business/industry? • What has been your experience so far running this business? (Are you satisfied with the current state of your business? • What are your plans? C) RESEARCH QUESTIONS

1) CHALLENGES AND COPYING MECHANISMS a) BUSINESS • What does be an indigenous producer means in terms of profit, growth, types of customers, and who are you customers? • What do you do to remain competitive? • What are the constraints /challenges that you face in the day-today running of your indigenous fabric business? • How do you deal with such constraints? b) PROCESSES 71

• What method of material sourcing and production do you use? (Modern, traditional mixed methods) • What technology do you use precisely if you use modern/traditional method for your material sourcing and production? • Why are you using these specific processes? • What are the difficulties resulting from using these processes? • How do you manage these difficulties? c) INDUSTRY • What are the recent most significant changes (in production, process, design, style even usage) you see in the industry today? • How would you describe this effect of the changes on your personally as an entrepreneur? (positively or negatively) • How do you compete against modern producers? • Do you use the Chinese factories? • Do you have to import some of your products? if not, how do you manage to remain authentic? • What else can you tell me that is particularly challenging in this industry? 2) PERCEPTION OF OPPORTUNITIES • Marital status • Do you feel like there is anything positively affecting your business as a result of technological changes in the industry (the machineries)? • Do you feel like there is anything positively affecting your business as a result of changes in the usage, design and pattern in the industry? • Anything else in the future of this line of activity that you see as positive? 3) CHALLENGES AS A WOMAN • Marital status • Does being a woman affect somehow your need to remain authentic and resist the change? • Would it be more difficult for you to get the education/training/finances required to modernize your processes? • Is the field of fabric production easier or harder for women? in what way? • Do you have a family or people to care for as well? how do you achieve family –Work Life balance?