Din Eidyn : A Symbol of Scotland 7 Step on the right side of life Give it a hearty spit 9 A Spark of Hope 10 Touch a Philosopher Skin to Skin 12 If you think Scotland is all about wearing kilts and tartans and having A Place where Scotland meets the World 14 a funny accent, come to Edinburgh and be enlightened. Creating new Stories 16

With its deep history and lots of contrasts Edinburgh has many places to see and lots of stories to tell.

Not only will you discover main attractions like Edinburgh`s Castle or the National Museum that captures the past, you will also hear about The Spirit of Scotland 20 the dark history of Edinburgh, and visit its cemetries with the creepy stories that are waiting to be told. Festival City / Info Boxes 23 More than Words 24 Are you keen on food? Come to Maggy Dickson`s Pub in Between the Lines... 28 Edinburgh`s Grassmarket - one of the best places to try Haggis. It`s also a good place to hang around and get to know the Scots folk. Ready to stArt 32 You will learn Scottish sayings, discover the Elephant House, where A Night Out in Edinburgh 40 J.K.Rowling wrote pieces of the world famous Harry Potter and find What’s Cooking? 42 out about various writers that came to be part of Scotland`s history. Rock the Kilt! 46 If you don`t want to miss the nature side of Edinburgh - come and climb Arthur´s Seat and find yourself looking down on the beautiful shape of the city.

While you´re in Edinburgh you`ll always find something new. Sunny side up 50 Our team has created a guide that leads you through Edinburgh and The Sound of Scott 52 offers stories nobody else ever experienced the way we did. A dirty little Story 53 Come and join us on our journey - truly captivating, madly behaving, Blows You Away 54 deeply loving. Getting a real Student Experience at the University of Edinburgh 56 Are you a witty Jock ? 58 Do’s and Don’ts 60 A perfect Weekend 62 “Scotland’s capital city has a very rich and colourful history. This section looks at the important buildings, the museums and some of the stories found at a first glance of Edinburgh. From a castle dating back to the 12th century, a controversial parliament building and some pretty gruesome vaults under the cobbled surface of the city, there is a lot to explore. Let the following articles take you through some of the best attractions that show you the true Edinburgh.” Din Eidyn: A Symbol of Scotland -Vicky Langley

‘So grounded, bounded and founded that by force of man it can never be confounded’ (from John Taylor’s travels around Scotland, 1618). Today nearly 400 years on, as you stand in the However it’s not all bloodthirsty fighting in the fortress looking out over the city it is easy to Castle’s history. Making your way up to the agree with the poet. Upper Ward, you pass a canon that is still in use today. If you happen to be walking within As you walk along the Royal Mile’s cobbled earshot of the Castle around one o’clock you streets the Castle doesn’t look so hard to may hear a single gun shot. The now daily One invade. It’s not until you reach the inside of O’clock Gun was first fired in 1861, originally as the Castle and look down over the walls to the a time signal for sailors. and New Barracks. The current use of these city below that you realise the lengths invad- buildings show the Castle’s history as an impor- ers would have to go to, to storm the Castle. An older signal on Calton Hill was the time ball. tant building continues. This is the reason the Despite the treacherous rock face (potential This was where a canon ball was hoisted up to highest flag on the Castle is a British one and invaders were literally taking on a volcano) the top of the Nelson Monument and released not a Scottish one. many did attempt to seize the Castle. at one o’clock. However, this came up against To commemorate and remember difficulties. Due to the atmospheric conditions As you reach the Upper Ward, you come to the the dead, the people of Edinburgh From the 13th century it was the target of (if you hadn’t noticed it’s not quite a Caribbean site of St Margaret’s Chapel. This is the oldest donated money to rebuild the many invasions and sieges starting in 1296 climate in Edinburgh) sailors couldn’t always building in the Castle and also in Edinburgh. It interior of the building which was when King Edward I of England invaded. What see the ball so needed a more aural aide. commemorates Margaret (the mother of King previously a barrack lock in the followed was around 50 years of a tug of war David I) who died in the Castle in 1093. The 1700s. The first donation was £500 with the Castle between the Scots and the This saw the introduction of the One O’clock inside of the chapel is very small, light and inti- whilst the second was two shillings English. The relationship between the border- Gun which takes place in unison with the time mate, accommodating only 24 people, making it and sixpence (in old money) from ing countries has been a long and often bloody ball, creating possibly the world’s first audio a favourite for weddings and christenings. a travelling person. one. However in 1566 Mary Queen of Scots visual show. The gun was only ever fired once gave birth to her only child, James. He would in an act of violence. This was during the First The very highest point of the Castle is where You can still see the highest part go on to become King James VI of Scotland World War when its target was a German air- the Scottish National War Memorial rests hon- of the volcanic rock in the building, and James I of England simultaneously. A rare ship that was dropping bombs on Edinburgh. ouring all those who have died fighting for protruding under a casket which peaceful moment in the two countries’ histori- The gun is also still in use by the British army in Scotland. It was opened in 1927 after the First contains scrolls naming those who cal relationship. the 21st century as are the Governor’s House World War where 148,000 military were killed. lost their lives fighting for Scotland 7 in World War One. Above them hangs an invaders. The Honours now rest safe along- Give it a hearty spit- effigy of St Michael, the patron saint of war- side the Stone of Scone (or the Stone of Des- riors, killing a dragon. tiny). This was a coronation stone used since -Kerstin Haselmann the 9th century and was moved to Westmin- Across from the War Memorial is the resting ster in 1296 by King Edward I of England. It place of the Honours of Scotland. The Crown, wasn’t until 1996 that it was finally returned to Sceptre and Sword of State lie on display in Edinburgh. The Stone will be used at the next the Royal Palace. At various points in history coronation of a British monarch in London - but the Honours have been moved and hidden in will be returned to Edinburgh much sooner a variety of places (including under a medi- than 700 years. eval toilet at one point) to protect them from

In modern times, it also symbolises How do you distinguish a tourist from a local? – A something more up-to-date: local wouldn’t walk over the Heart of Midlothian, Football. but instead walk around it and give it a hearty spit. You might now think “uuuuuhhhh, how The two local clubs’ arch-rivalry is disgusting”, but it is tradition, even if everyone the trigger for hundreds of fans to has another reason for doing it leave their “mark” on the mosaic. . If you are a supporter of the Heart The stony heart we are talking about is located of Midlothian Football Club you Throughout its 3000 years the Castle has close to the West entrance of St. Giles Cathedral obviously spit on it for luck. If you been the site of many historical events. on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile (High Street). Named are a fan of the rivalling Hibernian What links the Seven In every nook and cranny of the fortress, after Sir Walter Scott’s novel, The Heart of Edinburgh, you give all your saliva Midlothian refers to the Old Tolbooth, the city’s Years War, the War of history can be found. From the very high- for the enemy’s defeat. former administrative centre and prison, which American Independence, the est point where the Scottish National War Memorial lies to the lowest point in the once stood in that place. So basically, if you can find a reason French Revolution and the vaults, it’s important role in history can be Spitting on the heart shaped mosaic is supposed for yourself to do it – Go for it! There Napoleonic Wars? Prisoners discovered. to prevent you from ever getting arrested. is nothing wrong with it. No one from all these wars were held Furthermore, since the heart marks the old will give you a funny look, except in the vaults of the Castle. doorway of the prison where the executions took for the tourists, and you will all of a place, you can thus show your sympathy for the Carvings on the wooden sudden feel a bit more personally convicted or your disagreement with the death connected to Edinburgh. doors of the vaults are still on penalty. But these are not the only reasons for display today. people to spit on it. 9 A spark of hope - Kerstin Haselmann being. This feeling will solely be caused by what A burning sensation of pain. After weeks of you will learn about those poor souls who took their entire darkness, the tiny spark in the distance is last breath in the obscurity of nothingness down a blazing inferno to Alan’s eyes. Sudden groans there. of agony, like his own, are reverberating from the stony walls of the cave. A new one has arrived. Before South Bridge was erected in the 1780s, the Another damned soul adding to the sum of area outside Edinburgh’s Southern wall was home thousands of fugitives populating the filthy vaults to the city’s poorest. Out there the slums were beneath the beautiful city of Edinburgh. Once located. People living there had to wade through designed to keep the rich merchants’ goods human waste all day long, since Edinburgh’s safe, they are now a depository for the city’s lost citizens simply emptied their chamber pots out the and hopeless. window, leaving all the grime to run down the hill Alan is crouching further into the shadows to and accumulate in the valley to form a huge cesspit. escape the dazzling brightness. He knows When it all became too dirty and inconvenient for exactly what it is like to arrive in the vaults, the townsfolk to cope with and since the town when you think you are not here to stay; when within the walls was growing too small to house all the disgusting stench of excrement, sweat and residents and businesses they decided to build a decomposing flesh is filling your nose and mouth bridge to span the dirt. This bridge – South Bridge for the first time. The way your nostrils are flaring – was constructed as an extension to High Street in response, how you’re trying to suppress the and was supposed to host various fancy shops, shortly after taking their first breath. Young and the bridge arches being used as storage rooms. urge to throw up. Alan is chuckling to himself. Oh, old all had the same chance: None. how they are all convinced that they won’t stay Unfortunately, those vaults were leaking and as such long – like himself just a few weeks ago – but useless for the tradesmen. The empty chambers only very rarely one or two will leave for good. For providing shelter from the inconveniences of the Even today, you can still almost feel the smell law, illegal businesses soon found a new home in Alan all hope is lost. By now, he is suffering from of despair, decay and death burning in your tuberculosis, he will die and he knows it. Soon the obscurity of the caves. Gambling, prostitution nose, almost hear the sighs and groans of the and the like were thriving. When the Irish potato he will be gone as if he never existed, following moribund men and women when all lights die his wife and son who have already passed away. famine and the Agricultural Revolution displaced down and you are alone in the black emptiness. thousands of people and they tried their luck in This story may sound like the beginning of a tale the big cities, the South Bridge vaults turned into Taking a tour through the vaults of Edinburgh a collection point for the desperate and hopeless to you, but it’s not. This is what it was like to live in is surely different from what you might expect. the 18th century vaults. When you walk through of the time. Misery and crime were growing as Of course there is the token phantom making more and more people arrived in Edinburgh, the catacombs of Edinburgh today, you can feel you jump at a certain point. Of course you will a cold hand gripping your heart when you hear bringing with them the problems of hunger and learn about the poltergeist allegedly haunting disease. In the overcrowded bridge arches, the the story of thousands of people dwelling down the place. And of course you will almost be a If you are now interested in ta here, all literally condemned to rot alive. An icy damp air, malnutrition and lack of water were only bit disappointed when the entity won’t leave its king a tour through the vaults to contributing to the spread of maladies; the entire chill runs down your spine at the thought of the mark on you, because you half-way expected it experience it yourself, visit www. conditions under which so many people were darkness and constant fear was wearing people to happen. blackhart.uk.com >Tours; Watch enduring their fate in those caves in the 18th and out mentally. Conditions we, nowadays, can’t However, the most important thing you will out for special offers like 2 for imagine living under. People never saw the sun; 19th century. Just imagine: The given number experience is about people like you and I – of occupants per chamber ranges from 30 to 1 on certain days! The Under- they were permanently looking in the cold empty people who were looking for a better life in eyes of death. 50, usually averaging about 35. Diseases were Edinburgh after fleeing from famine or after ground City of the Dead tour is flourishing like roses in spring and the average And the worst? No one forced them to stay. having lost everything, only to arrive here and especially recommended, e.g. At the time, there were laws banning beggars and life span was about 3 to 18 months, once you be damned to die or be killed in the anonymity with tour guide Jamie, to whom had settled there. vagabonds from the streets, but they all stayed in of the vaults. I’d like to give a special thanks. Death was the omnipresent shadow making the the vaults voluntarily. They were free to leave town In the end you will leave the “city of the dead” at any time, but no one would. They were all hoping darkness even deeper. Mothers died giving birth beneath South Bridge with a dull feeling in your to children, who were either still born or died for a better life, dying rather than leaving, clinging stomach that is not at all due to any supernatural to a tiny spark of hope that was bound to cease. 11 is a little sceptical. away. You don’t climb the monument but keep walking You sit down on a bench to go over Touch a philosopher on. your curious but exciting walk with An amazing view on Arthur’s Seat comes to your David Hume, while letting the sun skin to skin fore. For a while you just keep standing there shine on your face. -Gina Burchardt enjoying the view. Deep down you feel the inspiration David interrupts your thoughts. “Do you see the poets and philosophers like Hume Medium build. White hair tied in a braid. Cautious building over there?”, he asks pointing to the got from this place when you see an but friendly smile. right. Another huge building rises up to the sky. inscription on the bench you sit on. That is what the man who is standing on the end “That is the Nelson monument which is dedicated of your way up Calton Hill looks like. to Admiral Horatio Nelson. He was a really good ‘For all the raindrops that fall, those As you approach he welcomes you and man. See the building is topped with a ball? It will be our tears. introduces himself as David Hume, a historian is a time-ball synchronized with the Castle’s one For all the snow that lays, that will be and philosopher. o’clock gun”, he tells you. our arms. “The way you are standing on right now is the first For all the wind that blows, that’s us public walking route”, he proudly says. “People’s whispering ‘we love you’. wealth is my utmost concern. This walking route And when the sun shines warm and Events taking place at Calton Hill: bright, that’s how we’ll think of you.’ makes people go outside and breathe some Edinburgh’s Hogmanya: 30 December fresh air. I also helped to transform Calton Hill into a public park. 2011 6:30pm Walk along there if you want to go where many (free and unticketed) people went before you”, he tells you. Beltane Fire Festival: 30 April 2011 - Hume points to one direction. You guess that the 9:30pm - 1 May 2011 - 1:00am Hume walk goes around the hill. (ticketed) Together the two of you walk further up Calton Hill. For more information visit: www.edin- burghguide.com/events Little raindrops fall, the sun warms your face at the same time. Hume stops walking. You both look down the hill onto the city with a rainbow Not far away you see a cannon. David catches sprawling over it. your gaze. The Coast seems so close but also so far away. “No the one o’clock gun is not positioned here “The view is stunning”, says Hume. “It is worth on Calton Hill”, Hume says with a little laugh. walking up the hill for the view alone though “The cannon over there is the last one of six there are other things to explore.” cannons that were first based in Portuguese As you walk on you can see a building that looks colonies in South Asia. By a great coincidence very much like the Parthenon in Athens. they were brought to Great Britain. The other “This monument is a memorial to the Scottish five were melted down for metal during the soldiers who died when they fought against second World War.” Napoleon at the beginning of the 19th century”, You are impressed by David being able to Hume explains. inform you so well. “It is the National Monument. Would you believe There is another Greek looking building behind it is still not completed!” you. He shakes his head in astonishment. “The city ran out of funds. So they stopped “That is the Dugald Stewart Monument which working on the building designed by the architects was also designed by Playfair”, he explains Playfair and Cockerell. I’ve only heard that. It without you asking him. was not in my time”, he says with a twinkle. “He is some kind of an associate of mine. He is a philosopher, too. This monument is inspired Together you continue your walk around the by the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates in building trying to find some steps when you Athens”, he says. realise what ‘not completed’ really means. There In the background of the monument there is are no steps. If you want to get up the monument Princes Street and the Castle. Enjoying the you have to climb. view you don’t even notice David Hume slipping From the corner of your eye you see that Hume 13 beautiful, Victorian arches, which had been bricked up and hidden, and only revealed as they chipped A place where Scotland meets the away the plaster. Entering the Museum through this new stone vaulted Entrance Hall, which none of the former world visitors knew about, you make your way upstairs. There you find yourself in the light and atmospheric -Marina Olt Grand Gallery, which impresses with its Victorian architecture and the big glass roof. The building was originally inspired by the Crystal Palace in London, built to house the Great Exhibition of 1851 and now hosts the “Window on the World”, a display of 800 items from all around the world which rises from ground to the top level.

There is much more to discover now because the renovated museum includes 20,000 objects of which 80 % hadn‘t been on display before. There are 36 galleries and as you move from one to another, it feels like you are stepping from one world into another one - walking through giant models of wild animals, dinosaurs and huge Buddha statues. The upper levels‘ balconies There he stands, secure footing, his knees slightly incorporating collections from the University of allow you to look down over the lower levels‘ flexed and his eyes fixed on the board in front of Edinburgh. In 1866 this Museum opened in a displays. Every hour the Millennium Clock echoes him, as if there was no other world around him. new building on Chambers Street, designed by through the building, in front of which people use He‘s tensed and then as it lights up he pushes architect and engineer Captain Francis Fowke. to come together to watch its fascinating display. the coloured button on the board at cyberspeed! Instituted to enlighten and inform people it had All in all there are over 200 interactive displays Then another one! And another one! The Result: and still has free admission and opened at night and discovery zones, which make the Museum 33 buttons in 30 seconds. Well done! time, so workers were able to go there. In 1985 not only a place to watch and listen, but also to both those Museums, the “Museum of Antiquities” do and experience, fun and entertaining for every No, this scene above is not out of a movie nor out and the “Royal Scottish Museum”, were brought age. Children as well as adults who enter the first of a book, it’s a funky, new reaction test, you can together by an Act of Parliament. In 1998 another level‘s interactive gallery “Connect” can’t hide an do at the cultural heart of this country, the National building was built next to the old one, designed by astonished and excited smile on their faces. This Museum of Scotland. Its exhibits entertaining, Benson and Forsyth to look like a modern Castle. kind of playground for old and young alike, offers to interactive displays and discovery zones which It incorporated all of Scotland’s history and was “test-drive” a formula one car, to design your own the most amazing view over Edinburgh. range from themes like the natural world, art and called the “Museum of Scotland”. This sandstone robot, test your reaction time, experience wind Also keep an eye out for special events, design, science and technology to world cultures building was a topic of controversy amongst the energy, do some quizzes and allows you to be in like interesting talks and courses. and Scottish history. people of Edinburgh and even if it came second charge of the world‘s energy. for the Stirling Prize in 1999, many people didn‘t The National Museum of Scotland is The Museum originally opened in the 19th century and still do not like it. The new museum is a place for all your senses. much more than a usual museum: More and still now, in the 21st century, it’s special to In 2006 this whole complex was finally known Touch an old meteorite, smell a skunk, listen to than 20,000 objects in 36 galleries, everyone who visits it. A lot of people in Edinburgh as the “National Museum of Scotland” - but it some Tibetan prayer music or experience how a 200 interactive displays and discovery grew up with it and were very excited, when the was about to change again. With so many new chameleon sees its world. The tasting sense is used zones, talks and other programmes – Museum reopened in July 2011 after the older part discoveries and inventions since the opening at one of the Museum‘s Cafes. So if you feel you make sure you don’t get overwhelmed of the building complex had been renovated. The of the building in 1866, they started to renovate need a little break from your journey of discovery, by all of this! Join a guided tour to get an renovation brought some astonishing discoveries the Victorian building in 2008, to make it an you have the choice of light food and some coffee overview before you go and experience and changes - but in fact this was just the last step appropriate place for the 21st century. or tea at the brasserie in the atmospheric vault this special place for yourself. A place of a lot of changes the Museum had been through. hall. Alternatively, you can try the cafe based on where old meets young, Victorian The renovation brought astonishing discoveries the balcony in the Grand Gallery. Classic Scottish building meets modern architecture, The story of the museum began in 1781, when the with it. Not only did they find hundreds and cuisine can be tasted at the Tower Restaurant. historic object meets the latest invention Society of Antiquities of Scotland formed a museum hundreds of objects in the subterranean storage In the modern part of the building complex you can and where Scotland meets the world. to collect archaeological and other material. In 1854 area which had been forgotten for a long time, discover the chronology of Scottish history from the “Museum of Art and Science“ was founded, but also made that area into a street level, stone the ground to the sixth floor. Don‘t miss going up For further information see: www.nms.ac.uk later renamed the “Royal Scottish Museum” vaulted entrance hall. They also discovered one more level onto the roof terrace, where you get 15 Creating new stories - Vivian Beaupoil

Entering the Parliament is like being back in primary school. The walls are arched over you. A comfortable, cosy feeling. Outside the wind blows. But inside you are safe and secure. When you start wandering around you get to see many different unknown paths. Left, right, up, down, you can move in every direction. Stepping in the Chamber, seats in a circle. One in the front, everything is made in a bright oak. A safe ground, you create your path. You are in infancy again. The Parliament is in its infancy.

The Parliament building was designed by the Spanish architect Enric Miralles. It had a difficult and controversial birth. It was officially opened in October 2004, five years after the Parliament itself was elected. Miralles‘ aim was to design a Parliament growing out of the land, an expression of the national identity, linking Scotland with the people, inviting them in. A place for conversation not Where Scotland is going, will be decided in the The decisions are given from Scotland confrontation. Representing a new start. Parliament, which was officially opened on 1st for Scotland. July 1999, the Path of Devolution started much The aims of the Parliament are great. But, for me, it doesn´t work. The innovative design earlier. Serious aspirations for a new Scottish Expectations run high. Again it is like does not fit between the primeval landscape Parliament first arose in 1973. The final decision being back in primary school. You of Arthur´s Seat and the cobble stones of the on the creation of a Scottish Parliament was start to create your path, you start do Royal Mile. It attempts to refer to the history. taken as the result of a referendum on 11 develop, you grow. That is exactly Connecting the past with the present. By that September 1997, the first election was on 6th what the Parliament does. It has showing the identity of the Scots. But identity May 1999. started to define itself, it faces the can´t be defined. It is a process. The Parliament´s creation was shaped by a high expectations, it grows. And in strong civic voice. There was a large “Home that process, it will be the place where The Parliament aims to represent the people. Rule Movement”. The people wanted to new stories are going to be written. Go This is the main problem. It wants to represent create their own policy because they are best and see a debate. You get to know the something that is not defined. It aims to unite represented by themselves. People not parties Scots. You see what they are and what the Scots. But the process of unification is just should hold the power. It should be the Scots, they will be. beginning and identity is not built in fast track. who decide over their path. Individuals play a It is a development, a journey. That is why the strong rule. Due to that inspiration the main Parliament is inspiration and instrument at motivation was to create a Parliament, which is Free Guided Tours: the same time. It tries to show what is already accessible, open and responsive to the needs Monday/Friday achieved and gives an inspiration for further of the people. Watch Parliament The system should be transparent. Every public development. No route is given. Everything is in action: Tuesday – open. member should be able to speak in it. The final costs for the building were incredible Thursday high, they raised to 414million. It emphasizes The Parliament represents local issues, local that the building is not simply built of stone. The problems, local people. It has the power to http://www.scottish. building fights a symbolic battle. It is a battle over make laws. The law-making power is limited to parliament.uk/ what Scotland is and where it is going. “devolved matters”. These include education, health, social work and local government. The Scots are directly affected by these matters. 17 “Take a closer look at Edinburgh and you’ll see the customs and quirks associated with the city. While you’re here why not try some traditional Scottish cuisine, be spun off your feet at a Ceilidh or try on a kilt for size...don’t pretend the idea hasn’t crossed your mind. The cultural gems that make up a city bring it’s personality to life and Edinburgh is no different. These next articles show you where to sample the best in Edinburgh’s mad nightlife, fashion and culture.” elements from Funk over Hip Hop to don`t often go to a Ceilidh, Flamenco create captivating sounds that although it is very common The spirit of Scotland are screaming to be experienced. “Believe among youngsters. us. It works”, is what they say about their - Anne Bendel “I’ve never been to a Ceilidh. style. Whether you do believe them or not It’s more common among Scottish music is like being invited on a still want to experience the sound of the you can only find out if you listen to them. tourists”, says Nik Sutherland, journey throughout the country. It evokes bagpipes whenever you want, it’s worth If you think this is all - forget about it. from the Ripping Records, feelings of joy and freedom. looking for Fred Morrison, who is one of Scotland’s music scene has a lot more to a music shop for common Scotland’s most popular pipers. The Scottish music tradition is certainly offer. contemporary music in based on Scotland’s rich variety of The fiddle is also a popular national Edinburgh. The dances are also So far you`ve only heard about the music languages. Some of them are still being instrument that has given Scottish music often taught at school, as Pete itself. But what about traditional dances? spoken today. These are Scots, Doric, some outstanding artists. One of them is states, who is working in the Probably the most popular one is the English and Gaelic, which is similar to the the band ‘Fiddlers Bid’ from Shetland. Their ‘CodaMusic’, a popular music Ceilidh dance. Irish Gaelic. Probably one of the newest sound is incredibly dynamic and evokes a shop in Edinburgh. Here you contemporary Gaelic speaking singers is lively picture of the beautiful countryside. The word ‘Ceilidh’ can sample various traditional Julie Fowlis. Her songs are all individual. “They play like angels and devils”, it says originally derives as well as contemporary Even if you don`t understand any Gaelic on the front cover of their recent album ‘All from Gaelic Scottish pieces and even you will surely be captivated when listening dressed in yellow’. and means listen to some Ceilidh to the sound of her voice. ‘visit’. music. Steven Goyle from Apart from the bagpipes and the fiddle, Most the ‘Deli Fresco’, the There are also languages that are not the harp is certainly the oldest national Scots perfect place to grab a being spoken today but still have a great instrument. It was first mentioned by sandwich at moderate meaning to Scotland’s music tradition. a Welsh monk in the 12th century and prices, recommends When the Picts, a Celtic tribe, occupied has been popular up to the present day. ‘The Royal Oak’. “It’s parts of Scotland around the ninth century In Scotland the small harp is called the a nice place to listen A.D., a similar language to Welsh was clarsach. to some Scottish being brought to Scotland. Most of the contemporary Scottish traditional music. You Since all those languages influenced the musicians combine these three instruments can even show up and Scottish music scene, it is not surprising and even use sounds that seem to be play.” that you feel it’s like being told whole contrary but happen to fit together. The No matter what you stories when listening to Scottish music. duo existing of Catriona McKay, playing the listen to, you will Scottish harp and Chris Stout, playing the One of the three national instruments of always find a piece that Shetland fiddle, is famous for its dynamic Scotland is the traditional bagpipes. Its evokes your feelings. sound that combines traditional Scottish history goes back to 1500 B.C. when the There`s a lot to choose feeling with an Indian, almost oriental style. first Pipes were found in Egypt. If you from, so don`t be Generally playing individually they also want to listen to Pipes during your stay in afraid if you happen have gigs with the ‘Fiddler’s Bid’. Edinburgh you don`t even have to search to feel you haven`t got for them. Just wander around the city and If you want to get a taste of what is really enough time to cover you will get a chance to listen to some funky - don`t miss ‘Future Trad Collective’. everything. Just come pipers on the streets almost every day and They deliver sounds that cannot be back any time and you might even talk to one of them. If you more contradictory. Pieces that combine enjoy ‘The Spirit of Scotland’. 21 Various Scottish traditional sounds and contemporary singers and songwriters at: Pubs to experience the Festival City feeling of Scotlands music tradition: CodaMusic; 12 Bank Street; The For the majority of Mound, Edinburgh the year, the city of Ghillie Dhu; 2 Rutland Edinburgh is home to or visit their website and listen to a variety of festivals some pieces: www.codamusic. Place; Edinburgh www.ghillie-dhu.co.uk attracting different co.uk crowds from across the globe. Another shop on The Royal Oak; 1 contemporary music is: Infirmary Street; Edinburgh is host Edinburgh, Midlothian to some well known Ripping Records; 91 www.royal-oak-folk.com festivals such as the South Bridge; Old Town, Military Tattoo, Edinburgh the Fringe www.rippingrecords.com and argably the best News Year’s celebration in the world – Hogmanay. Don`t miss the Miltiary Tatoo if Some of the references you happen to stay in Edinburgh are taken from the Music Besides these more during summer. Library in Edinburgh famous events, the city is also the venue which is just next to for some lesser known the Central Library in festivals such as George IV Bridge. Just the storytelling, the jazz and blues and go there and ask the the book festivals. staff for more information on traditional music or To find out more information and when whatever interests you. these festivals take place visit www.dinburghfestivals. co.uk

23 A few weeks later, unexpectedly but all the more welcome, another beautiful Since hatching some time in piece of paper artwork appeared, this late April, the dragon now has time at the National Library of Scotland. its lair in the Storytelling Centre More Made from the pages of Ian Rankin’s where the century old tradition ‘Exit Music’, it symbolizes thanks as of sharing tales is preserved. than well as a cautious warning not to lose History and stories blend hold of the literary treasures within. together, and new fantastic And indeed, NLS does so much more sagas are coined every day. words than just collect volumes. Readings, Festivals and theatres offer - Sophie Janisch-Pryce exhibitions, debates, workshops, … input and inspiration, the cosy - despite the grand old halls, the library storyroom is a space to simply A book is a gift you can open is no dusty archive, but an active, again and again modern and lively place of worship - Garrison Keillor of words and ideas.

In March, the unsuspecting staff of the After these two generous gifts, Scottish Poetry Library found a beautiful speculations went wild, and many a and delicate tree on their doorstep, literary location half expected being literally crafted out of words. the next to receive a paper sculpture Attached was a note of gratitude for their of their own. never tiring efforts and engagement: But in the end, it was the Edinburgh Filmhouse – dedicated to art-house “It started with your name movies, often holding special @byleaveswelive and became a screenings and discussion rounds, tree… highlighting the connection between ... We know that a library is so much scripts, literature, authors and film, more than a building full of books… it is a more than worthy beneficiary. a book is so much more than pages The sculpture of a tiny paper full of words.… cinema, with minute onlookers This is for you in support of libraries, relaxing in their leather book-spine books, words, ideas….. seats and gazing at a thrilling wild- a gesture (poetic maybe?)” west showdown is certainly not the only reason to visit this lovely movie It was received with flattered amazement, theatre, but makes it even more affectionately named the ‘poetree’ and rewarding. given a special place of honour in the “Once upon a time there was a book foyer. A little world of its own, the library and in the book was a nest is beautifully designed and filled to burst and in the nest was an egg and in with verse, rhythm and rhyme. ‘I wish I the egg was a dragon could stay here all day’ a small plaque on and in the dragon was a story.....” the notice-board says – and one really, really does. 25 relax or indulge into the colourful images within your head.

For a while no more mysterious gifts turned up, but then August came… Festival season, the city is turned up side down and inside out. Amidst the copious range of activities, performances and shows: the Edinburgh International Book Festival. Literature heaven come to earth, a feast for readers and writers alike. And within the bustling busyness: two new treasure troves. #5 dedicated to the UNESCO City of Literature Trust, a sculpture made out of James’s Hogg’s ‘Confessions of a Justified Sinner’. And then ‘A Cup Winner”, a trophy in honour of the people behind the Book Festival, carved out of what to them is the most valuable resource: words. Even in these highly eventful and exciting days, the tokens of appreciation were received with great gratitude, alas, sadly so far these two beauties are not on public display.

Scottish Poetry Library ‘When I go in I want it bright, I want to 5, Crichton’s Close, Canongate Being the world’s first UNESCO city of www.spl.org.uk catch whatever is there in full sight” – literature, Edinburgh hosts countless National library of Scotland the 7th and as of yet last, little paper institutions dedicated to preserving and George IV Bridge masterpiece was discovered in the promoting books, words and ideas and http://www.nls.uk Central Library and wonderfully sheds everything *magic*. Filmhouse light on the importance of its receiving 88 Lothian Road Following this little paper trail is not only a http://www.filmhousecinema.com institution. The attached note appears wonderful mystery in itself, but it may also Storytelling Center particularly poignant in face of the be used as a guide through Edinburgh’s 43-45 High Street recent funding cuts libraries are facing: rich literary heritage, beyond the beaten www.scottishstorytellingcentre.co.uk “To @Edinburgh_cc - a gift. tourist track. UNESCO city of literature http://cityofliterature.org This is for you in support of libraries, All these fabulous people and places have books, words, ideas... International Book Festival so much to offer, and thankfully, someone http://www.edbookfest.co.uk Libraries are expeansive.” found just the right way to express the Central Library appreciation and gratitude this deserves, http://www.edinburgh.gov.uk/info/20114/ when others are lost for words… central_library 27 Between the lines… Aspiring bards and also those who prefer rather earthier pleasures are advised - literally guiding you through Edinburgh to join in on one of the Literary Pub Tours leaving from the Beehive Inn on Grass- - Sophie Janisch-Pryce market. The Charmingly eccentric guides distribute in-depth knowledge about the famous poets, as well as some of their sources of creativity: Whisky and Ale. Drink- ing – perhaps, thinking – maybe, entertainment – guaranteed the advertising flyers Ink runs from the corners of my mouth. narrow entrance from the promise, and there’s indeed plenty of all those. Between pints and drams stories There is no happiness like mine. Royal Mile to the Makar’s court and poems are shared, a combination nourishing both to mind and body alike. I have been eating poetry. isn’t always easy, but all the - Mark Strand more rewarding once you do. Fans of Ian Rankin may take pre-organized Rebus-Walks, leaving from the popular Stepping Stones engraved with detective’s haunt at the Royal Oak Pub, leading gently through a rather sinister side quotes then lead into the beau- of Edinburgh. Dedicated to uncovering the hidden and secret, these tours indeed To a hungry mind, Edinburgh indeed offers a magnificent tiful building, where you can visit places rarely mentioned in your everyday travel guide. The ancient medieval banquet of literary delicacies to feast on. And even if you’re indulge into the lives and times district, remnants of the Flodden Wall or picturesque Canongate Cemetary are not exactly the bookish type, do allow yourself to be pulled of Scotland’s most renowned rather striking in their eerie beauty, whilst the assets of the grey Carnegie housing into this magical world, built of colourful poetry and compel- writers. scheme or the Dumbiedykes are less obvious at a casual glance. Only through the ling prose. author’s powerful words recited at the scene, the rather dull and colourless sur- roundings come alive before your eyes. Walking along the streets of the Scottish capital, it can become your own Neverland – a place where stories come alive and everything is possible. You might step into a quiet Close off the bustling High Street and run into a distressed looking 19th century doctor, frantically trying to cure his personality disorder. You can find yourself walking in on a dishevelled poet reciting flowery declarations of love to his bottle of Scotch, encounter a group of excited kids dragging their school trunks off to Hogwarts, or a withered detective clutching his Deuchars and scanning the streets for clues – anything goes.

Edinburgh shows off its rich (hi)story in so many unexpected ways, one can only marvel and give in to the fascination. Whether you want to explore the city with your favourite novel in hand, looking out for the scenes of literary crimes, experience the inspiration behind some of the fabulous poems on ‘Auld Reekie’, or visit any of the various cafés where the contemporary writers choose to hang out – there’s something to match every book loving heart’s desire.

The Writers museum with its magnificent collection of mem- orabilia is a good place to start the journey into the town’s literary heritage, even if you’re not too erudite. Finding the 29 For adventurers in search of (literary) treasures, the Robert Louis Stevenson experience will be the thing to do. Exploring the two faces of the city that inspired Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. Edin- burgh is full of bright and interesting contrasts Writer’s Museum beyond the obvious, a posh up-town and some Lady Stairs Close, Lawnmarket run down outskirts. Rich old history and moder- Monday - Saturday 10am - 5pm, free entry nity go side by side, traditions and worldliness, http://www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk/Ven- the pretty and the ugly. Besides discovering ues/The-Writers--Museum the city from a different perspective, it’s always worth immersing into Stevenson’s imaginative Literary Pub tour and descriptive prose at any rate. Departing at 7.30 pm at the Beehive Inn, Grassmarket Treading in the national poet’s footsteps on Jan Feb Nov Dec Friday only; Mar Apr Oct the Robert Burns Walking Trail, it will take your Thurs-Sun; May Jun Jul Aug Sept daily body along the stations of his life and your mind Check online for discounts! back into the 18th century: the Scottish Enlight- http://www.edinburghliterarypubtour.co.uk enment, its lively seaport and shady taverns. Edina! Scotia’s darling seat! All hail thy places Rebus Tours and tow’rs. Up to the National Monument on Departing Saturdays 12pm and 3pm at the Calton Hill and down to the old harbour in Leith, Royal Oak Pub, Infirmary Street the entire city is bursting with inspirations to and 10 ₤, concessions available admirations of it’s favourite son. http://www.rebustours.com

Edinburgh’s image is shaped by its cobble- R.L. Stevenson experience stoned streets and ancient towering buildings Departing at 12pm daily outside the Tron just as much as by expressive words of fiction. Krik 10 ₤, concessions available; including Walking through it, insinuating words and pow- Whisky for over 18s erful images will detach from the paper they http://www.edinburghvisitscotland.com/rls. were born on, and subtly worm their way into html your mind - leaving unforgettable memories, irreversibly fused together to form a unique im- Robert Burns Walking Trail pression of the city. http://www.edinburghcityofliterature.com/ trail3.html

also watch out for: http://www.edinburghbookloverstour.com

31 from Calton Hill with “Have a nice day” you to spend all your money Ready to stArt written inside them. here. But mind your pocket, An alternative Art Guide through Edinburgh Walking further on, at the University you there are still a few galleries to - Sabine Pusswald will not only come across high ceilings and come. columns but also sculptures, which remind Going up the Royal Mile, maybe For years the Scotsman Steps, on North their contrasts. “The Victorian part of the you of the ancient Greeks. Discovering getting inspired by the buildings Bridge, were something to avoid. Damaged city is certainly reflected in my present exhibitions by established artists such and street artists, turn left into and graffiti-covered only unwitting tourists work”, says designer and artist Matthew as Anish Kapoor, it’s possible to stumble Cockburn Street. There you would use them as a shortcut to Waverley Coombes, originally from New Zealand. over a student artist-at-work. Definitely, will find the Collective Gallery station, but thanks to Martin Creed, that’s His current work shows among other things you can take a look into the classrooms displaying mainly visual art and not the case anymore. In August, to mark a “single tear catcher” as part of the “Non- and examine an artist’s material. supporting upcoming artists with the Art Festival, the artist Martin Creed therapeutic Tools of Grieving” referring to commissions and exhibitions. restored the damaged and graffiti-covered the stigma of emotional struggle. Afterwards, take a little walk across the Those are rather sophisticated Staircase built in 1899. Elsewhere, Karen Grassmarket and get some air. Be ready and bold. Currently, there’s an Forbes created a temporary solar pavilion Art is highly represented in Edinburgh for the Red Door Gallery in Victoria exhibition by Hans Schabus for the city situated at St. Andrews Square. and not only as part of the Festival. Art Street. Inside, some rock’n’roll tunes from titled “Remains of the Day” on Richard Wright was asked to paint the exhibitions can also be seen at the Royal the Kinks or Bob Dylan will fill your ears show. Walking into the gallery, stairwell at the Dean Gallery. Thousands Scottish Academy and the Central Library. making it fun to look around. you might be surprised by of small black shapes including flowers Besides, the Scottish National Gallery, “If you’re lucky, you can watch the amount of trash spread and birds grace the white ceiling. The the National Portrait Gallery and the two me dancing to the music”, around on the floor. The annual Edinburgh Art Festival was Modern Art Galleries are all located in the says creative manager Nicky work is composed of founded in 2004 displaying the city’s capital city. There are so many attractions, Brooks. Although very small, a presentation of the vibrant galleries, art commissions and one might get lost in the complete picture the gallery has a lot to offer. rubbish collected by exclusive exhibitions. Even the private of art. Now, let’s look behind the obvious New craft art, illustrations the artist during one Scottish Arts Club opens its collection to as we take an “arty” tour through the city. and design art are stuffed calendar year. The the public. around the room. The aim was to show We start at the College of Art at Lauriston eclectic pieces include what remains from “Edinburgh is buzzing with artists”, says Place, hotbed and creative play area of stitch work spelling out work and human Jamie Sutherland, owner of Di Rollo many artists. Inconspicuous from the “make tea, not war” and existence. Gallery. Hardly surprising: The jaunty and outside, it is hard to distinguish from other prints of Edinburgh. inspiring area is perfectly made for young buildings around. Only the signboard There’s also a shop, Already a bit artists. On the one hand, Edinburgh is reading “College of Art” gives you a hint. selling everything from exhausted? Don’t rich in history and tradition. Old-fashioned Stepping inside, a receptionist welcomes unique postcards to worry, next there’s pubs and antique sculptures can be seen you. Be aware, this might also be an artist original paintings by the Fruitmarket throughout the city. Every stone, every such as Sophie Fegan. After graduating Seymour, who started Gallery where you signboard tells a story. On the other in 2010, Sophie became a performance his career here. “The can get the best cake hand, it appears to be a cosmopolitan artist. “My work proposes to raise works have intelligence, in town. On Market contemporary city full of live. Pink, questions around commodity culture and but the stories are easy Street, the former purple, blue – colours are everywhere, its effects on our day-to-day lives. I aim to read. You are able to fruit market hall and not only on the steps. It may be a house to bring the viewer out of a passive role understand the artist’s now leading gallery in façade, a door or the flowers in front of a and into an active role”, she explains. As intention”, Nicky explains. contemporary art holds restaurant. The mysterious old town and part of the Have-a-Nice-Day campaign The warm atmosphere and the its famous exhibitions. the elegant new town shape the city with for example, Sophie released 50 balloons inexpensive prices might tempt Coming in, you will 33 immediately recognise a big collection backroom called i2 is reserved for Scottish art. Representing of books, not only about art but also international artists. Henry Fraser, artists from the 20th and the 21st about philosophy and Edinburgh, as Jonathan Gibbs, Joan Miró, Salvador century, it indicates Scotland’s well as children’s books. To the left Dalí and even Pablo Picasso are up high standard. What is more, the you will see Fruitmarket Café serving for sale. The gallery is quite packed. gallery collaborates a lot with art tempting and delicious cakes. To the Thus you might feel overextended, schools. For example, there’s a right you will get to the exhibition, which but the staff members are happy to mixture of jewellery available is on two floors. Wide space and white give you detailed information about designed by graduates from walls let the art pieces come to life and the works. the College of Art. On two floors give the visitors space to reflect. you’ll find well-known artists like Very different to the Open Eye Gallery, J. D. Fergusson, but also young Now walk straight ahead until you reach you’ll find the old-fashioned Anthony aspirational artists like Calum New Street, where you can already spot Woodd Gallery just across the street. McClure. Ingleby Gallery. It’s the largest private The place is a bit messy and stuffy, gallery in the United Kingdom, showing but it suits the antique furniture and Another gallery featuring fairly diverse art. They are mostly traditional Scottish art displayed on emerging artists is Di Rollo rather difficult, but at the same time the red-carpeted walls. Screening Gallery. Because of this, the witty and fascinating. The wide light mainly landscapes, the works show prices are rather low. “We building makes it easy for the visitors the romantic side of the Scottish show a mixture of artists with to grasp the art. Prints and visual art country. If you’re lucky you might find no big name. So it’s affordable are displayed on the ground floor. a bargain for ten pounds. for students and the works are Temporary exhibitions can be found Just beside this, at Bourne Fine Art peculiar”, says owner Jamie on the first floor. Perhaps you will find Gallery, a great bouquet welcomes Sutherland. Again, it’s mostly yourself walking into a completely dark you. Showing Scottish landscapes as Scottish art. Some pictures are room with just one light bulb on. Coming well, you’ll be able to see the works even inspired by Edinburgh. out again into the white vast space of in a different light due to the vast Current paintings on screen by the gallery, a signboard explains that bright space. There are also paintings Harry Bell are titled “Deacon this small bulb consists of 289 bulbs portraying the Scottish society from Brody’s Tavern” or “Jekyll and recreating the light of the moon. the 17th century up to now. On the first Hyde”. You can also get a copy floor you will find a room constructed from the paintings in form of a After this stunning experience, walk like an old antique living room postcard in the gift shop. up Dundas Street, also known as including a fireplace, a dining table, But pay attention, while looking Edinburgh’s art street. Here, you a sofa, even a bookshelf. The great around you might fall over literally stumble from one gallery to windows allow you to have a terrific Jamie’s dog. the next. First, there’s the Open Eye view over the street you’re about to Gallery. Expect a mixture of paintings, walk down. But don’t forget about the Dundas Street is finished, but jewellery and crockery. Perhaps it’s not paintings, being overwhelmed by the the best is still to come. At one for your pocket, but definitely one furniture. Broughton Street, the Union for your eyes. Have an exclusive look at Gallery awaits you. Stepping the original hand signed masterpieces Next door, you can find the Scottish into this one-room-gallery you of some of the most famous artists Gallery. Established as “Gilders, might be surprised how much of contemporary art. The front room Framers, and Artists’ Colourmen”, it space you’ll find here. The displays Scottish artists, while the became the main gallery to promote gallery, run by Robert Dawkins 35 and his artist wife Alison Auldjo, Now, walking through one lightens up. The artists are found shows Scottish contemporary of Edinburgh’s beautiful via open submission. Basically art meeting international art. The residential areas, you will end everybody can send an e-mail gallery also sets up commissions. up in Gayfield Street where two showing their art. “For all of our The current exhibition “Plight of of the city’s trendiest galleries artists however, we demand a the Bumblebee” is a charity project are located. The first you’ll come certain level of quality, the art to highlight the decline of the across is the inconspicuous has to remain affordable and we bumblebee population. Therefore Superclub Gallery. You have expect it to be unpretentious”, they asked various artists to work to pay attention, otherwise you he explains and adds, “We on that theme. For example, Dylan walk by without even noticing. want to break the formal gallery Lisle, whose art normally displays Inside you will find two rooms standards, keep things a little human females, drew a bumblebee. coloured in white with funky different and on the peripherals.” Even the artist’s children did some sculptures dotted around. drawings for the exhibition. “We are Fruits on the floor, a melon There really is a difference not cautious with the art we show, with a face carved in it, a glass between the galleries seen often it’s a risk and we won’t sell with a pink stone in it and a so far: the building’s industrial anything. We want to give space to broken pump on the table. In design, the pop art, the thumping the artist and make everybody who the middle of the room you’ll electronic music playing in the comes in welcome”, Robert says see a wooden pole with keys, background. Not forgetting the proudly and he continues “Art is articles, pictures and buttons small lounge in the corner of the about pleasure and having fun.” on it. It’s different, daring and gallery, where you can finish your Indeed, it was an enjoyable time at delightful. A space where risk art tour with a drink or a coffee at the Union Gallery. and adventure are acclaimed. the bar and have a little chat with Neill or Alan. It’s an alternative Now you think you’ve seen side of Edinburgh’s buzzing and it all? No, not at all. Walking vibrant creative area. Art lovers out of Superclub you will spot will make up their own minds. a huge pink door down the street: Here’s the Framed Gallery. Just opened up in May 2011, it is Edinburgh’s newest and probably most exciting art gallery. The owners Alan and Neill Forgie Connell hold monthly exhibitions displaying cutting edge contemporary art, film events and fashion shows. “We already run an event company but our real passion is art. It started out as an idea to hold two exhibitions a year. Then we found this place and it was so big and cheap”, Alan 37 College of Art Anthony Woodd Gallery 74 Lauriston Pl 4 Dundas Street Edinburgh, EH3 9DF Edinburgh, EH3 6HZ 0131 221 6000 01315589544 www.eca.ac.uk www.anthonywoodd.com Opening Hours: [email protected] Monday – Sunday 10am to 5pm Opening Hours: Monday – Saturday 10am to 6pm Red Door Gallery 42 Victoria Street Bourne Fine Gallery Edinburgh, EH1 2JW 6 Dundas Street 0131 477 3255 Edinburgh, EH36HZ www.edinburghart.com 01315574050 [email protected] www.bournefineart.com Opening hours: Opening Hours: Monday – Friday 12.30pm to 5.30pm, Saturday Monday – Friday 10am to 6 pm, Saturday 11am to 11am to 5.30pm, Sunday 12pm – 5pm 4pm

Collective Art Gallery The Scottish Gallery 22-28 Cockburn Street 16 Dundas Street Edinburgh, EH1 1NY Edinburgh, EH3 6HZ Tel: 0131 220 1260 www.scottish-gallery.co.uk www.collectivegallery.net [email protected] Opening Hours: 0131 558 1200 Framed Gallery Tuesday – Sunday 11am to 5pm Opening Hours: Monday to Friday 10am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 11b Gayfield Square The Fruitmarket Gallery 4pm Edinburgh, EH1 3NT 45 Market Street www.framededinburgh.co.uk Edinburgh, EH1 1DF Di Rollo Gallery [email protected] 0 131 225 2383 18a Dundas Street 07809 758670 www.fruitmarket.co.uk Edinburgh, EH3 6HZ [email protected] www.dirollogallery.co.uk Opening Hours: 0131 557 5227 Monday – Saturday 11am to 6pm, Sunday 12pm to Opening Hours: 5pm Tuesday – Saturday 11am to 5pm

Ingleby Gallery Union Gallery 15 Calton Road 45 Broughton Street Edinburgh, EH8 8DL Edinburgh, EH13JU 0131 556 4441 01315567707 www.inglebygallery.com www.uniongallery.co.uk [email protected] www.uniongallery.blogspot.com Opening Hours: [email protected] Monday – Saturday 10am to 6pm [email protected] Opening Hours: Open Eye Gallery Monday – Saturday 10.30am to 6.00pm, Sunday 34 Abercrombie Place 11.30am to 6.00pm Edinburgh, EH360QE www.openeyegallery.co.uk Superclub Gallery [email protected] 11a Gayfield Square 01315571020 Edinburgh, EH1 3NT Opening Hours: www.superclubstudios.com Monday – Friday 10am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to [email protected] 4pm 07834 907 639 Opening Times: Sunday 12pm – 6pm 39 on exploring the city’s nightlife. Opium if you like Indie music or visit The Stereo or The Caves A Night Out in Edinburgh You might like to visit The Stand Up Comedy if you like dancing to Hip Hop. Club which is in York Place and has committed In The Bongo Club on Holyrood Restaurants, Pubs and much more itself to make people laugh. Or you could go Road you can also dance to - Katrin Willié to one of the Theatres such as the Edinburgh some folk music and Scots will Playhouse, The Royal Lyceum or the Edinburgh teach you how to do Ceilidh Festival Theatre. They present a variety of plays dances. After spending the whole day wandering around summer. It is a hot spot for young peo- from Shakespeare to Mary Poppins, so almost Edinburgh and having seen some of the most ple who want to enjoy the advantages every taste is catered for. And because the Scottish gov- beautiful places the city has to offer, it is time to of a bar and club at the same time. On ernment is really taking care of see more of Scotland’s capital city. Tuesday they always have a challeng- And because you do not have to listen to bag- its people, they provide night A nice evening in Edinburgh should start with ing pub quiz whilst on Thursday there is pipers all day you can go to one of the many buses all night. A ticket costs a good meal. It should not be too difficult to a karaoke night where you can sing your clubs which play a wide range of music. These only £3 and is valid for the find something you like as Edinburgh provides favourite songs. Later that night, it is up open at 10pm and close their doors around whole night. a great selection of all kinds of food. You can to you if you want to stay there or keep 3am. Music varies from club to club: Go to The choose between Chinese, French, German or Indian. But if you really want to end the day with a traditional Scottish meal, you should go to one of the restaurants along Royal Mile which also provide a beautiful and breathtaking view of Edinburgh Castle. A place which really stands out is The Wichtery on Castlehill, where you can enjoy traditional Scottish meals in a historic setting. Another restaurant which is also in the near of the Castle, is The Ensign Ewart. It is a bit cheaper than The Wichtery but also promis- es its guests a great Scottish dining experience.

Afterwards you can continue the evening with an Ale or Cider in one of the many bars and pubs. Live music is common in many pubs around town and invites people to step in. In the old town and situated at the heart of Grass- market, you can find many pubs such as the Maggie Dickson’s, Biddy Mulligans, and Last Drop. These are always filled with students and laughter. And while listening to live music, you can find out more about the interesting stories behind the pub’s names. But if it is still warm and you want to sit outside you should go to The Three Sisters. It is located in the Cowgate and has a big courtyard, which is pretty nice in 41 While the “birth place” of haggis is not definable, surprised and proud you tried it. its historical purpose is more certain. Haggis used to be regarded as a meal of the poor, due If you are vegetarian or the thought to the use of offal which was considered to be a of eating offal is crossing the line What’s cooking? waste product. The ingredients were therefore for you, you do have the option - Elena Kerner and Marie Kilg cheap and easily accessible but also very filling. of veggie Haggis, with ground up It was allegedly made by hunters who vegetables instead of the meat. British and especially Scottish food does not have a good disembowelled their kill on location. Stuffing The Red Squirrel on Lothian the offal, which spoils quickly and can not be Road is a place to get good and reputation in the rest of the world. But if you look beyond grilled, into the sheep’s stomach did not only inexpensive Haggis. Its stylish the fried mars bars and offal stuffed in a sheep’s stomach, mean that nothing went to waste but also saved interior, young crowd and modern you might be amazed. the hunters from having to carry extra cooking interpretation of the dishes will set equipment. the mood for an enjoyable evening. Scottish cuisine has much more to offer than its staple dishes, you will find meals that you have never heard of When ordering Haggis in a restaurant, because Even if the whole idea of eating before, be pleasantly surprised by the familiar ones you when you’re in Scotland you are almost Haggis does not appeal to you, required to try it, you might be nervous if you don’t have to miss out on an were sceptical about and realise that it isn’t as unhealthy you’re not a frequent consumer of intestines. ‘’H-experience.’’ Take part in a as you might have thought. Recently it has undergone You might be even more nervous when your haggis hurling. The concept is fairly something of a food revolution, trying to eliminate some of plate arrives and you get the first glance of simple. Stand on a whisky barrel brown mush placed neatly in between mashed surrounded by lots of men in kilts the prejudices against it and bring a modern twist to tradi- neeps and tatties. But the first waft of the rich and try to throw a 500 gram Haggis tional meals. So you have a broad variety to choose from. savoury and spicy sauce will take away your as far as you can. Just make sure initial doubts and let you forget the unusual the Haggis is edible or you will be ingredients. You will most likely be satisfyingly disqualified. Haggis

Haggis is a small animal that lives in the Scottish Highlands. The extraordinary thing about it, is that its legs on one side are longer than on the other, perfectly adjusted to the steep hills of its habitat. If you’re lucky you might catch a glimpse of it scurrying off around the hillside. Confused? Congratulations, you didn’t fall for the little legend the Scots like to tell and a shocking amount of tourists actually believe is true.

Haggis is really minced sheep’s offal (heart, liver and lungs), oatmeal, onion, suet and a lot of spices stuffed into a sheep’s stomach, although today it is mostly cooked in an artificial casing. Mostly it’s served with neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes), traditionally, but not exclusively, on Robert Burns Night, 25th January.

The actual origin is still a mystery - but there are many different tales and theories. Some believe the national Scottish dish is actually an English creation based on an early recipe from the 15th century. Others think it might be a modification of a similar French dish that can be traced back to the ninth century. The earliest reference of a Haggis related food goes as far back as Ancient Rome. 43 becomes a bustling and loud place, be the best fast food just off the street that Steak and Ale Pie with live music on most evenings and you’ll taste in Edinburgh. Hold back though a great, spirited crowd. when you’re on a date with someone you’re The Steak and Caledonian Ale Pie served at trying to impress, as there’s a high risk of The Last Drop on Grassmarket is a simple Oink accidentally letting bits of pork and apple fall and hearty dish to warm and comfort you on on your clothes in the heat of the battle. a cold and rainy day. It basically consists of ‘’I’ll have a sage and onion Oink with diced steak in tasty ale gravy, served with puff apple sauce and two Piglets, please’’ pastry placed on top and sauteed potatoes and Was that a joke? No, the person vegetables as a side dish. If you have never standing at the counter in the joint with had steak pie, you might as well imagine it as a the dead pig’s head in the window kind of goulash. display seems serious. Really, he’s being handed two paper bags and The Red Squirrel The pub itself immediately transports its guests keeps on walking down Victoria Street 21 Lothian Road, Tel. 0131 2299933, to medieval times, when criminals sentenced to with a content expression. redsquirreledinburgh.co.uk, daily 10am - death came in to have their last ale or whisky. late, food until 9pm, Haggis £6.50, free wifi With the brick arches, dark wooden beams After the initial confusion has passed, The Last Drop Tavern and fake torches on the walls, the visitors can it’s an easy task to find out what just 74 - 78 Grassmarket, Tel. 0131 2254851, last- clearly imagine how back then, people arrived happened. Oink is the name of both [email protected], Mon – Sat 11 – 1am, on horse after a three-day journey through dark the shop and the hog roast roll they Sun 12.30pm – 1am, food until 10pm, Sun un- woods and dirt tracks. Although there are many sell there (there’s a smaller version til 7.30pm, Steak and Ale Pie £8.95, popular board foreigners in the evenings and the staff provides served around harvest time or at weddings. called Piglet and a great big portion games available at the bar information on Scottish history and traditions, Until about 100 years ago, it was also often named Grunter). It is served with your the pub still has an effortless and authentic called Ale Crowdie or Crowdie Cream, as it choice of sauce and you can even The Mitre Bar feel. Since the kitchen is open from 12 noon to had a soft Scottish cheese in it, called crowdie choose between two types of bread 131-133 High Street, Tel. 0131 6523902, nichol- 10 pm, it is the perfect place for an affordable instead of cream, and sometimes ale instead and two different seasonings. It’s a sonspubs.co.uk/themitrebarroyalmileedinburgh, open lunch or dinner, although a lot of young people of whisky. At weddings, the cook would hide a very popular and hip snack, just right daily 10am – 1am, Cranachan £4,50, Cullen Skink just come in for a quick pint at night before ring in the dessert bowl and the guests would for those who’ve had enough of fish (see info box) £5.25 going out. use the dish to foresee who would be the next ‘n chips and fried pizza or just need to marry, a Scottish version of throwing the a quick bite. ‘’We’re very well visited, Oink Cranachan bouquet. although it’s got a bit less since the 34 Victoria Street, Tel. 018907 61355, oinkho- festivals are over,’’ says one of the groast.co.uk , open daily from 11am, Oink Roll £3.60, If you like cream, you will love Cranachan. You A nice place to try this most Scottish of desserts vendors. Facebook: Oink Edinburgh should be aware though, that unless you’re a is The Mitre Bar on the Royal Mile. Around frequent eating-contest winner or a sturdy rugby lunchtime, the Mitre it is very relaxed with quiet Just like any funky, zeitgeisty Other delicacies and traditional dishes: player, when you order it at a restaurant, you music and dim lighting. The dark wood, tartan business, of course Oink is present Cullen Skink: A thick soup (‘’skink’’) made of smoked should skip the main course. Unless you want carpet and old-fashioned armchairs make it on Facebook. Although comments haddock (Finnan haddie), potatoes and onions. to leave half of it in the glass, of course. It’s a very cosy place and the historic photos in like ‘’Lord knows how I’ll manage Cock-a-leekie: A chicken-stock soup with leeks and, also wise to take your time eating it, or you’ll be golden frames create a traditional but not too without my daily grunter with apple sometimes, prunes. in a digestive coma before you can say ‘’pure old-fashioned atmosphere. After a hectic day sauce’’ might sound a bit confusing Clootie dumpling: Pudding made with flour, bread- dead brilliant’’. Cranachan is made of cream, of shopping and sightseeing, it is the perfect to your non-Scottish ear at first, the crumbs, dried fruits and spices. toasted oatmeal, whisky and, sometimes, honey place for a pot of tea and a heavy dessert with positive online-feedback shows just Fried Mars Bar: A Mars bar, deep-fried in the batter. or raspberries. It used to be a summer dish, raspberries to regain your energy. At night, it how delicious Oink is. It might even Can usually be purchased at any fish and chip shop. 45 Rock the kilt! it right” explains Vicky, and her boyfriend went shopping. “When I go 23, working in a tartan somewhere after school I put my high heels in - Catrina Chelariu Young women of Edinburgh tend to be some- shop. She is wear- my bag and wear another skirt under it. So it thing in between Sex and the City girls and old ing a kilted skirt, dark red looks sexy and the boys like it very much” she fashioned couch potatoes. A dishevelled hair woollen pullover combined with a tropical flower says with a little smile and a look over to her bun, big size woollen pullover and kilted skirts in her hair and dark Gothic eye make-up. ”And sweetheart, whose face is blushing red. on the one hand, glittery high heels and ultra I don’t like the souvenir kilts either! Save some mini skirts on the other, all mixed together in money and buy an original one, they are worth Wondering how she stands the wind -my back- one outfit. But the most impressive part of it is it and much more fun.” side feels frozen- she just smiles about my that they wear it with such a pride and self-con- problem: “You tourists have to spend whole fidence, so all I want is just to look as they do. Scotland exports a great many wool fabrics, hours walking through the city. I live in Edin- which you can see everywhere on the Royal burgh and so, when I go out I only have to pre- Picture me, a normal tourist, exhausted, huge Mile. Red fluffy mufflers, white over knee socks pare for the next hour but not for the whole day. uncomfortable backpack, two pullovers to and all kind of woollen sweaters or pullovers. And besides you get really used to the wind” prevent the cold, a rainproof jacket, not pretty, So maybe this historical influence and the eco- practical, tottering through the streets of Ed- nomic influence on the textile industry gener- Desperately wishing to go back into a warm inburgh. Somehow I always manage to be ates a sense of fashion. But fancying the fash- café I ask the crucial question. “Want to look dressed too chic, too cold or simply inadequate- ion girls’ styles on Princes Street I realise that like an Edinburgh girl?” She laughs out loud so ly for the weather and the situation. Passing the mixture is not confined to one traditional everyone is turning round but she really doesn’t by, I see three Scottish girls, all in ballerina ideal. They seem to throw everything together seem to mind. “I think they mostly like casual fluttery skirts and only a knitted cardigan over and combine it in their special way so it gets a styles as a contrast to the school uniform. So their t-shirts. How do they do it? How could they very personal touch. On this point I can’t avoid when you don’t want to stand out here, just stand this ever changing weather in those thin asking myself, does the mixture of traditional wear a dishevelled knot in your hair. Which clothes? and modern fashion destroy the Scottish herit- is, by the way, really hard to do. Sometimes age or just bring it up to date. I spend a half hour arranging it. Also a large But even more important: where does this typi- woollen pullover is a must have as a Scottish cal style come from? And how can I adapt it? “There are some tartans or kilts produced only girl. I also think that vintage is a big thing here Taking a closer look you recognize different for fashion. They tend to be very grey or bright like old leather boots or a nice bag but when hints of traditional Scottish fashion elements. colours like yellow or pink. But the interesting you buy them new, the style might look a little The kilted skirts, tartans, woollen sweaters, fact is that the tourists prefer the really tradi- cheap. I would take a look around in our charity cashmere. tional tartans, with bright red and dark green. shops. You will always find something and it’s Some of them are very well informed about the much cheaper than the official vintage stores.” 1. Don’t wear high heels if you’re not a Especially kilts and tartans are associated with tartan history, sometimes they know even more So she walks away and I hurry up to get a hot pro, the cobblestones are tricky. Scotland but their history is not as long as you then myself. So I am sure, the traditional fash- chocolate. With my bones getting warmer, so 2. Don’t dress up too formally! would think. Most theories range between the ion will not get lost. We have registers of new my brain starts to work again. I must sum up: 3. Don’t wear a miniskirt without shorts end of the 17th or beginning of the 18th cen- family tartans every day. They come to us, give under it: cystitis danger! tury. The tartan pattern nowadays is used to the designer some ideas about what they’d like, How to dress in Edinburgh as a tourist: 4. Don’t buy cheap souvenir kilts! represent specific families or clans, and may be and he works out a total individual family tar- 5. Do wear a dishevelled hair bun! adopted by organisations or for a specific event, tan”, Vicky explains. 6. Do mix styles. but in the very beginning it all was about money. 7. Do wear woollen or cashmere over- The richer a family was, the more detailed and So it seems that there are two ways in which size pullovers! coloured were their tartans. the Scottish heritage survives. The exact copy 8. Do look in the charity shops for Today we have so many labels inspired by this of the traditional models and the more interest- unique pieces! traditional textile and Scotland’s visitors always ing way: take what is known and combine it with 9. Do wear vintage leather boots! buy clothes as souvenirs, but that doesn’t make your favourite pieces. them look more Scottish! “It is really nice to have people interested in your tradition and cul- “I really enjoy playing around with the school But the most important thing: “You tural heritage. But sometimes you get annoyed uniform and this cliché.” says Emma, 17 years don’t have to wear the whole tradi- by people not wearing the traditional tartan old. She is wearing a red school uniform jacket tional outfit to be Scottish. You’ve got properly. Then I just want to grab them and put with a black tight ultra mini and high heels. She to rock the kilt“ 47 “By now you may have noticed that Edinburgh has many stories to of- fer. In this section delve deeper into the city and discover the people of the capital. Find out about local artists, a bagpiper and a street cleaner who all have an interesting story to tell. Test yourself on Scottish lan- guage and read the dos and don’ts to ensure you don’t stand out as a tourist in Edinburgh as you get deep into the heart of the city.” them into a new contemporary context”, he adds with passion SUNNY in his eyes. “Because I can’t do anything else”, is the simple answer to the question why Mark A main inspiration for his work SIDE Tough, 48, became an artist. He is hanging around was a sculpture titled “The outside the Framed Gallery, where he currently Rock Driller” by Jacob Epstein. holds an exhibition. While enjoying the sun he talks The artist himself was inspired

UP about his art, what inspires him and his hometown by the machine age. “That’s - Sabine Pusswald Edinburgh. “Designing and creating things is natural what makes it timeless”, says to me. I like producing art pieces mainly to please Mark emphatically. myself.” He knows everything about the work’s history and appears to His latest work displays steel sculptures and paintings including crafts with unique be deeply touched while talking industrial timeless style. Even though he uses cold harsh material, the works about it. Created in 1913/14, somehow seem to be full of life. “The steel craft mostly developed naturally. I like Epstein changed the sculpture things just the way they are. And I like it simple, that’s why I only use one colour around after World War I, taking for my paintings”, Mark explains. The handmade furniture consists of recycled away its greatness and making things he found in second hand shops or on the street. One piece shows a it look vulnerable like a victim of simple wooden chair, which has a broken leg and missing arms. Somebody violence in modern life. had thrown it away. Mark renovated the chair in his individual style, making The figure is shown in the Jupiter it look almost like a mechanical spider. “My aim is to take old pieces and put Artland Gallery in Edinburgh, one of Marks favourite art galleries. “It’s a good vibe there. Galleries in Edinburgh at the College of Art.”

Nevertheless, Edinburgh also plays a certain part in his art and inspires him. “My favourite time of the year is August, when all the festivals take place. The city’s brilliant, there’s so much going on. I like just walking down new town in the evening or on a warm sunny day like it is today”, Mark says with a smile and he continues, “The Georgian buildings, the cosmopolitan style, the friendliness of the people – that’s what makes it easy to work and live here.”

51 The Sound of Scott - Elena Kerner and Marie Kilg A dirty little Story - Sophie Janisch-Pryce

If every city has its own sound, live here, you’re just used there are few cities that have With the entry into the mili- to it - and the dirt and the a sound as beautiful and dis- tary, Scott not only received grime is also part of the tinct as Edinburgh. Even fewer a professional education and city, you know?” Norman cities will have a sound that is was able to nurture his tal- continues thoughtfully. caused by a weapon. When you ent, but he also travelled the hear it for the first time, on your world. He still believes it was Even though being very first day in this city, you won’t the best thing he could have fond of his hometown be able not to turn your head done. Especially since one nowadays, in his youth to see where it comes from. place stuck out from the rest: he spent days on end Some have described it as loud Berlin. “The Germans loved watching the ships and annoying, some say it stirs the bagpipes. They gave drifting out of the harbour, their emotions. One man, Alfred us lots of money and lots of sending his thoughts with Hitchcock, even had the theory beer” he says with a cheeky them to unknown places. that whoever invented this grin “but the one reason I Dreaming himself weapon “was inspired when he want to go back to Berlin is away from the hard saw a man carrying an indig- the Döner Kebab. I want to go reality of Edinburgh’s nant, asthmatic pig under his back to the shop we used to cobblestones, to a bright arm.” eat at, although it’s probably and exciting new future. not there anymore. You have But life had other plans The sound of Edinburgh is shaped by bag- to try the Berliner Döner Kebab” struggling to Norman, 48, spent almost half his life keeping for Norman. Still living pipes, the only musical instrument ever legally find the words that describe just how good it re- Edinburgh’s streets clean. in the neighbourhood he grew up in, declared a weapon, and on a nice day you will ally is with a reminiscent expression. “But noth- Eating his lunch out in the warm sunshine, he is he now is more at ease with his fate see and hear a piper on almost every corner. ing beats haggis,” he emphasizes and goes on willing to share his park bench as well as his very and content to spend his life in ‘Auld He will hold himself straight in his full Scottish recommending places for “amazing” haggis or a personal impressions of the city. Reekie’. kilt and play loud melodies on an odd scale; he piece of Angus steak. will not move nor make a face when children Grown up in Wester Hailes, Norman knows His job is tough, but leaves him time dance around or stand beside him to be photo- In 1995 Hugh Scott came to Edinburgh with the stories you won’t find in any tourist guide. He to think and the freedom to observe graphed. It will have taken him a lot of strength military and decided to stay because he “met a is out and about every day, no matter what the people, something Norman enjoys and physical coordination as well as years of lovely woman” here and although their love did season, the weather or the mood. He knows the a great deal. “Folks rush up and practice to become this skilled, because the not last, he got a beautiful new home in return. city far better than he would sometimes like. down the streets, being busy. But Great Highland Bagpipe is one of the most dif- When asked what he likes most about the city, they always watch out for each other ficult instruments to play. The melody is typically he simply says “Everything, it’s a fantastic place Edinburgh is generally a very neat and clean somehow too, being polite, dropping complex, with many little notes called grac- to live.” Enthusiastically, Scott talks about what place, and littering is a criminal offence in a coin to the street people, smiling at ings, as the construction of his instrument does a great place for tourists Edinburgh is and how Scotland - but without the hard work of Norman a stranger, … ” That’s what makes not allow the piper to rest or stop. Watching much there is for them to see between the cas- and his colleagues, it would present quite a ‘his’ Edinburgh special. him play on the corner of Royal Mile and Bank tle and the palace alone. different picture. Street, you begin to imagine that his life has For him, the heart and soul of a been just as unique as his melodies. Next year, Hugh intends to move to Tennes- “You’d be surprised how dirty some of the poshest place are not defined by glamorous see, partly for his job but mainly for yet another people are” he shakes his head, pointing down buildings, diverse cultural offerings “I’ve travelled the world because of it. I’ve woman. That’s when the realisation hits, that towards the noble addresses on Princes Street. or flashy high streets – it’s something played in the White House, London, Sydney.” behind his traditional exterior he is a modern “But most of them do try not to actually do anything you might find in a run-down block This is just one of the surprising stories sur- man at heart, who just laughs at the question if in front of me. Folks are really kinda considerate of flats, an overcrowded double- rounding Hugh Scott, whose friends call him Tennessee or Scottish whisky is better, as if it’s that way.” he adds consolingly. This rough but decker bus, or the little pub around Scottie, a nick name he acquired when he the most ridiculous thing. hearty friendliness of his fellow townspeople is the corner. was a soldier. Born in the West Highlands he “I’ll always miss Edinburgh,” he says. “I’ll always his favourite feature of Edinburgh; cultural and And sometimes, on a park bench too, learned to play the bagpipes at the age of sev- come back.” historical heritage mean little to his everyday life. one could add… en, after seeing them being played and think- “All the pretty buildings and the sights and stuff, ing “it was just the greatest thing on earth.” His Scott’s Tip:Haggis or Angus Steak at Deacon Bro- that’s nice for the tourists, but when you actually teacher? His school bus driver, Neil Campbell. dies Tavern,435 Lawnmarket,Edinburgh 53 Blows you away... - Gina Burchhardt

to take.“This is so amazing. The atmosphere is a little mystic. I would definitely recommend walking up Arthur’s Seat”, says Aleksandra, 39, from Gubin in Poland. A strong breeze blows, making It is the 12th of September, year 1644. A man your hair dance. The grass waves is standing on a hill near a big city. From afar he All of a sudden raindrops make the picture in like the sea as wind and sun play in sees a large crowd coming. The crowd is slowly front of your inner eye fade away. Though the interaction. sweeping towards him and the other men. rain becomes heavier you continue your walk In the West you see the Old Town A strong breeze is blowing around him. Rain upwards on a now very steep and gritty way. with Edinburgh Castle. Turning pours down on his face. “The enemy is coming”, definitely worth taking a walk there. Go one step further and the view of Edinburgh right New Town comes into your he whispers to the man standing next to him. becomes better, take another step and you can field of vision. In the far distance His blood runs cold. Slowly he draws his bow The start of your walk is the north side of see the sea. Step by step your view grows wider. you actually make out the North and suddenly one of them shoots the first arrow. Arthur’s Seat. Wandering along the cliffs of the Walking up Arthur’s Seat you find yourself in a coast of the Firth of Forth. If you are Archer’s Seat. The place, where the Archers Salisbury Crags you pass some smaller lochs. completely new world. A world full of green grass, lucky you can see for about 100km. were seated. This might be the story where the First your feet touch tarred ground. You keep heather and other plants. The wonderful view is sheer name “Arthur’s Seat” has been come from. going for a while, taking your first pictures. With those hills, plants and lochs around you feel enjoyment. After sitting down for Then you have to watch your footsteps while as if you are hiking in the Highlands, not in a park a while to let your thoughts circle, Going down the Royal Mile you end up at walking across sandy, heavy stones. A ruin only a few metres away from the noisy, busy city you start your way back down the Holyrood Park. Right in front of you there is a rises up in front of you. It is St. Anthony’s centre of a city with 485.000 inhabitants. hill. sprawling hilly landscape: It is the Salisbury chapel. Tired from the straining climb Crags with Arthur’s Seat at the top. The extinct As you close your eyes you see people wearing You reach a little platform to rest before going you choose a different path to go volcano which was active 335 million years their best dresses. They rush into that chapel about the last part of your walk. This part is the downwards, an easier one. There ago is 251m high. It stands in the south-east to get away from the rain and are looking hardest. After climbing the barren ground you are many different ways to choose of Edinburgh, where you can see it from nearly forward to the mass in that 13m long and over finally reach the top. from. every place in the city. Since Arthur’s Seat is 5m wide chapel topped by a 12m high tower. You walk over a green hayfield in the highest elevation of the Salisbury Crags it is Dark stones cover the walls. The view of Edinburgh and the sea makes the East. Sun on your face, wind in amends for all the exhausting steps you had your back. 55 time, you can also take part in theatrical activities Getting a Real Student Experience at the in the Bedlam Theatre.

University of Edinburgh - Rebecca Yeung ‘If you like music, I would recommend visiting the St. Cecilia’s Hall. It belongs to part of the university. In there, you can find the world When you come to Edinburgh, you certainly most important early keyboard instruments. I don’t want to miss out part of its history – the particularly like the harpsichords there, they University of Edinburgh – which Scottish people all look very elegant,’ says the music student, regard as ‘a proud heritage’. Maria. St Cecilia’s Hall is a museum of early keyboard instruments, they include – organs, The University of Edinburgh, built in 1583, takes harpsichords, virginals, fortepianos and spinets. pride in being one of the four ancient universities Although we are no strangers to the instruments in Scotland. This tells us that Edinburgh, as a city – piano, violin, cello, and so on; we rarely get of culture, has a strong educational environment. the chance to learn about musical instruments Every year, many overseas students apply to the during early days. By visiting St. Cecilia’s Hall, it university and pay over ten thousand pounds per can certainly broaden your horizons and add to year to study here. Yet, competition is extremely your taste of culture. keen – you need to be clever enough to get in the university. So, when you are in Edinburgh, why We have so far explored the student bar, the don’t take the opportunity to visit the university student theatre and the university’s museum. And and get a taste of the student life here? now, surely it is important to look at the academic feature of the university as well. Medicine is one Let’s start off at the Teviot Row House – the oldest of the strongest subjects in the University of student union in the world. It was opened in 1889 Edinburgh; it is therefore highly recommended to and is still an important feature of the university. pay a visit to the medical school. The University It is also one of the Edinburgh Festival Fringe’s of Edinburgh has the oldest medical school in best-known venues where many comedies and Scotland and its medical department ranks the radio shows are performed. You can experience first amongst other Scottish universities. The the student life by getting a drink or having a meal medical school holds public lectures on health at the library bar – ‘it’s my favourite bar, the foods and disease regularly and you may be interested and drinks are good and they are reasonably in joining one of the events to get a taste of the cheap,’ says one of the students, Johnny. Johnny medical students’ academic experience. Tired is here with a few friends and when asked what of studying? The Doctors Pub is just across the they are doing, he explains, ‘the library bar is a road from the medical school buildings and it is very good place to meet up with friends as the easy to get a drink after ‘attending a lecture’. environment is very comfortable. We can relax and chill out.’ If you are tired of walking around in Congratulations on completing your university Edinburgh, you may want to come to the Teviot journey in Edinburgh. To reward yourself, you Row House in Bristol Square to refresh yourself may want to pop into the university shop situated with a drink or meal. You also get the chance to at 2 Charles Street to get yourself an official meet the students and share their experience. university hoodie. Prices ranging from £26 – £40 and I must say that getting a hoodie is a wise What about other entertainments? The Bedlam investment on clothing as it can keep you warm Theatre provides you performances ranging and fit in the unpredictable Scottish weather. from drama to comedy and even new writing. It is the oldest theatre that is fully run by the students in Britain and is definitely worth visiting. Events are held regularly at least two nights per week. In Freshers’ Week, at the beginning of the new academic year, there is always something going on every day. You can learn about acting, directing and staging by joining one of the workshops. Apart from being an audience all the 57 1. If somebody welcomes you by saying Are you a witty Jock? “You`ll have had your tea” they probably...? -Anne Bendel and Marina Olt a) expect you to have eaten at home already. (R) If you can say ‘it’s a braw bricht b) invite you to have tea with him. (S) moonlicht nicht the nicht’, then ye’re c) offer you tea and cake. (W) all richt ye ken.* If you couldn`t, read on and find 2. Never call a Scots person a Scotch, out more about Scots and their they might feel offended. What does language. Scotch actually refer to? Scots is a way of speaking that is a) whisky (O) very different from Standard English. b) the Scottish language (I) You might even find it funny to hear c) Scotland (A) it spoken. The Scottish tongue is influenced 3. If somebody works the ‘graveyard shift’ in many ways and its roots lie deep he is..? in the past. When Scotland lost its a) dead (L) 5. If something is ‘mingin’ it is...? prestige during the 17th century b) works as a solicitor (R) a) delicious (A) many authors tried to fight against c) works late (B) b) horrid (R) the emerging decay and still wrote c) smelly (E) poems in Scots. 4. What is the weather like if it’s ‘dreich’? “An exhaustible quarry of subtle a) It has been dry for a very long period 6. What is a Ceilidh? and significant sound”, that is how of time (W) a) a whisky from the Isle of Islay (L) Christopher Murray Grieve alias b) The weather is cold and miserable (E) b) a famous Scottish singer (U) Hugh MacDiarmid, the architect c) It`s very bright sunshine (T) c) a traditional dancing session (T) of the ‘Scottish Renaissance, described the Scots language. In 7. Edinburgh is ‘auld reekie’. What the 1920s he developed a personal does it refer to? style of writing which was later a) the smell of the brewery (B) considered as “synthetic Scots” for b) the water of Leith (S) it contained both - English grammar c) a cool breeze (T) and Scots vocabulary. 8. A Scottish person is a ‘Scotsman’ but it`s also a…? a) a bagpiper (E) Read on and test your knowledge about Scots and their witty sayings. b) a local school (S) At the end of each answer you`ll find at least one letter in brackets. Put them together and you`ll find c) a Scottish newspaper (U) a famous Scottish poet. 9. What are “breeks”? a) glasses (C) b) trousers(R) ‘Scots’ is a traditional dialect mainly spoken in the North c) shoes (T) East of Scotland but sometimes also considered as Scottish English. Scottish people are called ‘Scots’, ‘Scotsman’ 10. If you go for a bevy, you...? ‘Scotswoman’ but never Scotch - it`s a whisky. Use a) take a little nap (T) ‘Scottish’ to say if something is of Scottish origin - Scottish b) take a bath (O) goods, Scottish law, Scottish places etc. c) have a drink (N)

11. What is a Jock? a) a Scottish person (S)

b) a Scottish dance (T) Robert Burns Robert c) a traditional dish (U) Solution: 59 tion. Moreover you can only get a feeling for …schedule the early closing time of the spirit of Edinburgh if you are a part of it. So Pubs discover everything by foot and get the most In Edinburgh you can’t party all night intensive impression of the capital long in the pubs, because they usu- ally close at 1 a.m. Therefore plan to Do’s and Don’ts go out early, so that you can enjoy the feeling in the pubs as long as you can. in Edinburgh However in almost every pub live mu- - Andrea Ströbel and Anne Nückel sic is offered and nevertheless there is no entrance to be paid. But after closing most people don’t go home Other countries, other customs: When in Edinburgh, do as the Scottish do! but stay at popular places like grass You enter the Scottish capital and smell the characteristic malty aroma of the city, feel the wind of market to let the evening die away the seaside rush through your hair and see the unmistakably architecture of the metropolis. For a together. quick orientation in the interesting way of life in Edinburgh with its unique environment, you may need some little pieces of advice. So that your trip to the Scottish capital will be legendary, pay at- tention to some tips, how to behave and what (not) to do.

DO’S …always support the national football team DON’TS …always take an umbrella with you Like in every country, the Scots are proud of …call the kilt a skirt! The strategy to look at the weather after wak- their football team. Even if they are losing many Never call the kilt a skirt! The Scots are a very ing up to decide what to wear this day does games, they stand by their players and support patriotic nation who are proud of their traditional not work. A sunny morning does not promise a them with big parties and outfits in traditional clothing. Statements like that can quickly be sunny day! Be prepared for all kinds of weather colours. regarded as an insult. so wear many layers like T-Shirt, Sweater and Jacket to withstand stormy and rainy weather …joke about the left traffic also like sunny and warm parts of the day. The Never ever joke about the differences with other British people are used to the weather and the countries, especially not the traffic on the left. temperatures so don’t get too influenced by Tourists who comment on that like “you drive their way of dressing up. on the wrong side of the street” meet with a …naming Scots English! refusal. Also the dimension unit of drinks can Not every Brit is English. You have to …ask many questions be confusing. One pint is about 568 ml: So be differentiate between the nations not They really like it if you are interested in their careful with alcoholic beverages, they contain to be rude and to hurt their pride. Treat culture and their way of life, thus don’t be shy more than you think. the Scots with respect to their own his- and ask every question you want to. Also all tory, traditions and culture. people on the streets or in cafés and pubs are …never mention the tram lines interested in small talk. They are very chatty …wait at red traffic lights A total taboo subject are the tram lines that you …be afraid of the accent and are glad to get addressed by tourists. Use You can recognise the tourists at the traffic can admire for example in Princes Street. The Actually the Scottish people have their the chance of receiving information about the lights, because they are the only ones who wait project has cost 440 million Pounds and has own accent and way of speaking the city and its inhabitants. for the green light. Even if the red phase is quite been put on hold, its future is not clear. The language. Ask if you don’t understand long, keep waiting to be safe. And also always inhabitants didn’t feel integrated in the decision- something, they are very friendly and …use the free admission to many museums be careful with the traffic on the left if you aren’t making process and react highly sensitively to hospitable, and always repeat it for and galleries used to it. this topic. you. Perceive Scottish as part of the In Scotland it’s typical that the government culture, it is always exciting to discover bears the costs of the museums and galleries …save money for buses, you can reach eve- …avoid the main streets during festival time a new way of English. that you can enjoy the privilege to visit many rything by foot in August Bus et porum quo temporeprem ad cultural institutions without attention to your The manageable size of the city centre is one In August there is the big Edinburgh Festival, quiate cumquas eatur, sectiis eium travelling budget. of the most important advantages of Edinburgh. so the city is full of people. Especially the main aspicae. Us voluptae volessintium Sights, shopping opportunities, pubs and even streets are overcrowded and can get annoying, inullant quiam doluptia dipsanda pa nature parts like Arthur’s Seat or Calton Hill are so choose smaller streets to get to your des- enimet in coreicae plandiost providu reachable without using public transporta tination if you are in a hurry and don’t want to cipsapi enditiust mincto temosant. waste time. 61 DAY 2 The perfect weekend in Edinburgh Morning Afternoon - Andrea Ströbel and Anne Nückel Start the day with a full Scottish breakfast in Seaside and Leith a café, so that you are prepared for the next Take a bus to the old port eventful day. of Edinburgh and breathe £ Relaxed informal breakfast in The Olive some fresh sea air on the coast of Branch Bistro (Broughton Street). Scotland. ££ In the Urban Angel (121 Hanover Street) you can make up your own breakfast. Camera Obscura (The Royal £££ Enjoy the exclusive atmosphere in Valvo- Mile, Opening times: daily 10am – DAY 1 na & Crolla (19 Elm Row). 5pm, tickets from £7.95 After your early arrival in the Scottish capital, 4 Bridge). After that join a guided tour through the city; If it is bad weather, visit Edinburgh’s you should not waste much time in getting to ££ Enjoy traditional dishes like Haggis in you can choose between different types, de- Camera Obscura and learn some- know your accommodation. The weekend is too Maggie Dicksons (92, Grassmarket). pending on your interests. http://www.edin- thing about the city and its history in short for this historic city, so you have to use £££ If the weather is fine, eat at Beehive Inn burghtourguides.com/Tariffs.html the most entertaining way. Mirrors, every second. (18-22 Grassmarket) and have a good time in lenses and daylight create a pano- the large, pleasant beer garden with a great Lunch rama, that invites you into another Morning view to the castle. world. http://www.camera-obscura. After you have experienced the city by foot, co.uk/camera_obscura/camera_ob- In the morning you should take a walk to ac- Afternoon grab yourself something to eat at the Food Hall scura.asp climatise and to get to know the impressive of Marks and Spencer (54 Princes Street) and essence of Edinburgh. Walk along the most Be flexible! Decide depending on the relax in the beautiful Princes Street Gardens, Evening famous street: Princes Street is the heart of the weather what activity you chose. where you can enjoy the spectacular view of city. On the one hand, you are part of a lively Edinburgh Castle. If you are very interested in You like to get scared and want to mass of people in a modern city who are busy Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat (Holyrood Gait, the history of war and the military, go and visit it. discover the dark side of the city? A doing their own thing in the hectic day-to-day free admission) Otherwise it is not necessary to buy an expen- Ghost Tour gives you a connection life of Edinburgh. There are shops to suit every Explore the natural part of Edinburgh sive ticket (About £13.50) to see the castle from to the history and leads you to the taste and every pocket in a fast moving con- with its beautiful landscape around the inside. underground of Edinburgh sumer society. There will be time for shopping, the city, while you are physically ac- (http://www.blackhart.uk.com/index. but now only concentrate on absorbing the at- tive. Climb up Arthur’s Seat to get a spectacu- html , Tickets from £9,50) mosphere of the bustling city centre. In contrast lar view from a height of 823 ft. It takes you if you take a few moments to look around you, between 30 minutes and 2 hours according to there’s a different feeling altogether. The ex- your determination – and your fitness. hilarating nature of the wonderful green gardens next to the activity of the city change the mood National Museum of Scotland (Chambers completely. Thousands of people are attracted Street, Opening times: daily 10am – 5pm) by the relaxing ambience of this local recrea- tion area, that connects the New Town with the Use the free admission and discover the cul- traditional and unique buildings that border the tural and natural world, Scottish history, art and old part of the city. The mixture of these con- design as well as science and technology. All trary elements, creates that amazing feeling of human senses will be touched by the exhibition. Edinburgh. Evening Lunch Let the evening die away in one of the nice To get new energy for the afternoon, you should pubs at the Grassmarket. Taste a typical pint of fortify yourself with traditional culinary delica- beer and listen to some live music, which is of- cies. fered in most pubs. £ Get inspired like R.K. Rowling in the cosy (Last Drop Tavern, 74-78 Grassmarket / The atmosphere of The Elephant House (21 George Grassmarket Bar, 27-31 West Port) 63 Fruitmarket Gallery (45 Market Street, Opening Hours Mon-Sat DAY 3 11am- 6pm, Sun 12-5pm, free ad- WHERE TO STAY? mission) http://fruitmarket.co.uk/ £ Morning The exhibitions show you beauti-

ful paintings and inspiring drawings The last day in the city offers you the opportu- The Old Schoolhouse on Drum- of national and international artists. nity to go shopping and to buy typical souvenirs mond Street 5. A double room is The Fruitmarket Gallery has also a like cashmere products, whisky or traditional about £25 per person a night. Café and a bookstore, where you clothing like kilts to remind you of your time in http://www.edinburghhostels.com/ can buy books about art, design and the Scottish capital. edinburgh_old_schoolhouse.html photography. Fashion: Smart City Hostels Edinburgh Evening Princes Street and Princes Mall on Princes 50 Blackfriars Street, shared Street room: £11.00 private: £18.50 In the evening you can visit the Fes- George Street http://www.smartcityhostels.com/ tival Theatre to experience drama, St James Shopping Centre on Leith howtofindus.html music, dance and culture. Check Street the homepage for the current pro- ££ gramme and have a great last even- Souvenirs: Royal Mile ing in Edinburgh. Grassmarket „Hotel Ibis” A night is available from £73. (Festival Theatre, 13-29 Nicolson http://www.ibishotel.com/gb/hotel- Street, http://www.fctt.org.uk/festival_ HOW TO GET THERE? 2039-ibis-edinburgh-centre/index. Lunch theatre) shtml By train Decide what kind of food you would like to eat. The famous Waverley Station is The city is full of multicultural food, from tradi- The Sandaig Edinburgh located in the very centre of Edin- tional Scottish dishes to Asian and Italian res- 5 East Hermitage Place, Leith burgh. So getting to and from the taurants, you can get whatever you want. Links, private room £50 http:// station is easily manageable by www.sandaigguesthouse. foot, if you have to carry heavy co.uk/ luggage you can use the very ef- ficient bus service. Afternoon £££ By plane Royal Botanic Garden (Inverleith Edinburgh Airport is located Row, February to October: 10am - The “Hotel Radisson Blu” offers 8 miles to the west of the city 6pm, November to January: 10am affordable luxury in the heart of centre. There is a very frequent - 4pm, free admission) http://www. the city. A night starts from £83 shuttle bus service that goes di- rbge.org.uk/ http://www.radissonblu.co.uk/ rect to the city. The typical “Black hotel-edinburgh Cabs” are waiting at the east end Use the sunny weather to admire the exotic of the Terminal and there is also flowers in the botanical garden. Take a walk The George Hotel the possibility to hire Pre-booked through the three regional gardens there: The 19-21 George St, New Town, private taxis. +44 (0)1314774000. mountainous Benmore in Argyll, Dawyck in the Edinburgh, from £58.65 wooded hills of the Scottish Borders and Logan By car on the Gulf Stream warmed southern penin- http://www.edinburghgeorgehotel. If you want to travel by car from sula. You can decide if you want to be part of co.uk/ outside Great Britain you can ei- a guided tour, or stroll through the gardens on ther take one of the ferries (from your own. £23/car) or the Eurotunnel (from £99). 65 Articles

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