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Home , Adam House, Alexander Adam, Appleton Tower, Bedlam Theatre, Edinburgh Law School, Joseph Bell

THE UNIVERSITY OF HERITAGE TRAIL WELCOME

Since its foundation in 1583 the has been strongly linked to the city itself. Today the University’s iconic buildings form part of the historic fabric of the city, and represent a key element of Edinburgh’s World Heritage Site.

It was in 1995 that the Old and the New Towns of Edinburgh were inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, recognising the unique quality and contrast in architecture between the two sides of the city.

The University’s buildings reflect that historical and architectural importance, and were often at the centre of events in Edinburgh’s and ’s history.

Many famous and distinguished people have also been associated with the University, including scientists and Joseph Black, authors Sir , Sir and , and pioneers for women in medicine Sophia Jex-Blake and Elsie Inglis.

Use this trail to guide you around some of the most significant buildings on the University of Edinburgh’s campus, explore the city’s unique built heritage and discover the hidden history behind its stone facades.

Historical images courtesy of the University of Edinburgh Special Collections, except where otherwise stated OtherOther places places to explore…… to explore

a) – a complex built 1925–1938 for the Pleasance Trust, incorporating an older Quakers Hall and graveyard, and now a student union and major Festival Fringe venue.

b) Chisholm House – built in 1764 and typical of the surgeons’ houses that would once have occupied the square.

c) Buccleuch Place – a street of Georgian town houses built from 1779, now the location of a variety of University departments.

d) St Cecilia’s Hall – built in 1763 for the Musical Society of Edinburgh, and home to a museum of early instruments.

e) and Museum – built in 1858 and the location of the University’s historic musical instrument collection.

f) – formerly the North Free Church built in 1846, named after the city’s lunatic asylum, which once stood on this site.

g) – built 1954–1955 but inspired by the city’s classical architecture, and named after Adam Square, which was once on this site.

h) Milne’s Court – built in 1690 to a design by Robert Mylne, the building was bought by the University of Edinburgh in 1961 and restored as student accomodation.

You can follow the University of Edinburgh Heritage Trail on Foursquare.

foursquare.com/uniofedinburgh/list/heritage-trail David Hume Tower GEORGE SQUARE Modernist architecture

• 1766 - Square laid out to a design by The David Hume Tower is now James Brown, in the most ambitious new regarded as one of the key development yet attempted in the city. examples of Scottish Modernist architecture, and is a category A • Many well-known people lived here, for listed building. example the boyhood home of Sir Walter Scott (1771–1832) was at No. 25 and It is among the very few buildings Thomas Carlyle (1795–1881) courted of the 1960s designed by Sir Jane Welsh at No. 22. Both Sir Walter Scott ‘George Square... Robert Matthew, one of the most and Thomas Carlyle studied at the University. important British architects of the inhabited by the more 20th century. • 1914 - The University bought its first property opulent of the place’ in the Square. In 1949 a major programme of The design called for materials redevelopment was planned. of exceptional quality, reflecting George Square was the first Matthew’s interest in distinctively • 1963 - The David Hume Tower was built to development on the Southside Scottish building. He used a design by Sir Robert Matthew, followed by beyond the old city walls, traditional slate roofing material cut the in 1965. In 1967 the new offering an exclusive setting for into thick slabs as cladding for the University Library was built, designed by Sir Edinburgh’s professional classes. tower, along with stone rubble on and regarded as one of the walls at lower levels. finest buildings of its type in Europe. Sir Walter Scott's father, a prominent lawyer, was one of the first to have a house built there. His neighbours were a Look out for distinguished set, including the Countess of Sutherland, Lord Many of the houses around the square have plaques Braxfield and Henry Dundas, marking the homes of residents including the authors the future Viscount Melville. Sir Walter Scott and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, thesaurus Before long George Square had its creator Peter Mark Roget and the athlete Eric Liddell. own Assembly Rooms at numbers 14–16 for social gatherings, with a ballroom 92 feet long, lit by 11 George Square crystal chandeliers. It was noted Gardens has that people would stand on the a labyrinth to High Street and shout loudly for explore and a sedan chair to take them to many sculptures George Square, ensuring that donated to the everyone in earshot would be University. suitably impressed. For opening hours visit www.ed.ac.uk/labyrinth • 1887 - Built to a design by Sydney Mitchell, making it The architect Sydney Mitchell the oldest purpose-built student union in the world. Sydney One of the most the , a high- • 1906 - A Debating Hall was Mitchell was significant was John profile project for a added to the upper floors. one of the city’s most R Findlay, proprietor relatively young and important architects, of inexperienced architect. • 1962 - The building was and an alumnus of newspaper. He extended to the south. the University. employed Mitchell for Many of Sydney his first commissions, Mitchell’s buildings • - Student Union bar sold 1970 At the age of 27 Mitchell alterations to both show his great interest spirits for the first time. started to practise on Findlay's own house at in Scottish buildings of his own account, helped the Renaissance period. • - Rothesay Terrace and 1981 by wealthy clients Teviot Row House became the ‘Fringe Club’ during the design of Well Court he had met through is a good example the Festival, providing nightly in the Dean Village. In his father, who was with turnpike stairs, showcases to allow audiences 1885 he was in charge Chairman of gothic windows and a to sample shows. of the restoration of the Scottish Life the Mercat Cross on hammerbeam roof for Assurance Company. the Debating Hall. TEVIOT ROW HOUSE Run by students for students

Teviot Row House was Teviot Row House was the inspiration of the designed to cater to all first student council to of the students’ needs, be founded in the UK. but it is clear that Victorian requirements Edinburgh University’s were quite different ‘Student Representative to those of today. The Council’, formed in building included billiard 1884, was the idea of rooms, a servants’ Robert Fitzroy Bell, hall, tea and luncheon Look out for who was inspired rooms, a writing room, by examples he had library, dressing room, seen in Germany. The Drum-shaped towers at the main A louvre on top of the roof, retiring room, barber, building of a student entrance inspired by the Renaissance adding to the character of and fives courts in the union was one of their palaces of Holyrood and Falkland. the building. basement. first priorities.

University Cycling Club c.1900 University ceremonies The McEwan Hall was the University in 1583. purpose-built as a venue The Principal of the for grand occasions University doffs each such as graduation student with a bonnet, ceremonies, Rectoral said to be made from addresses, concerts and John Knox’s breeches. public events. The Rector of the The construction of the University is elected by hall was funded by Sir staff and students every William McEwan MP, three years, and the from the fortune he had successful candidate made in the brewing makes his or her industry. His gift enabled address in the McEwan the building of this Hall. The post is often magnificent D-shaped given to a famous figure hall, with stunning and has been held by interior decoration. Winston Churchill, David McEWAN HALL Lloyd-George and Sir The graduation Alexander Fleming. In ceremonies here follow 1973 the future Prime • 1887–1897 - Built centuries of tradition, Minister Gordon Brown to a design by some of which date became the youngest Sir Robert back to the founding of ever student Rector. Rowand Anderson.

• 1953 - Ceremony installed the Duke The Space Bunnet The made from material of Edinburgh as Look out for bunnet donated by George Chancellor of the The dome is a distinctive part of the has been Buchanan, a teacher University. Edinburgh skyline. used at University of at St Andrews, who Edinburgh graduations taught Edinburgh’s • 1957 - Indian for a very long time. first Principal - Robert Prime Minister It is believed that the Rollock. The bunnet Jawaharlal Nehru velvet used to make currently used at addressed Indian the bunnet came from graduations is referred students. John Knox’s breeches, to as the Space Bunnet although this has not as its embroidered • 2010 - The hall’s been confirmed. It is badge was taken into organ made by alternatively suggested space by Piers Sellers, Henry Willis was The carving above the main door shows a that the bunnet was a graduate of the fully restored. graduation ceremony in progress. University. • 1874 - The site Infirmary of Edinburgh fascinated by the way was purchased Joseph Bell: and lecturer at the the professor could and a public appeal the original Medical School next deduce a person’s was launched. door. Among his occupation and origins Sherlock many achievements from closely analysing • 1876–1886 - Built in he founded a nursing their appearance. Years an Italian Renaissance Holmes institute and acted later, when Conan style, designed by It was while studying as surgeon to Queen Doyle had become a Sir Robert Rowand Victoria when she was successful author, he Anderson. medicine at the University of Edinburgh in Scotland. wrote to Bell: ‘It is most certainly to you that I • 1941 - The Polish that Arthur Conan Doyle However, it was his owe .’ School of Medicine met Professor Joseph ability to observe OLD MEDICAL was set up to teach Bell - the inspiration for minute details about those exiled from the author’s famous his patients that caught SCHOOL their home country character Sherlock the imagination of during the Second Holmes. Conan Doyle. For a World War. Bell was an eminent while he acted as Bell’s assistant and became • 2009 - Major surgeon at the Royal renovations to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle the west wing for occupation by the In the 1950s the space was University’s School subdivided, but a single upper storey of Classics, History and the lobby still remain, with and Archaeology. elephant skeletons and other exhibits from the original museum. Look out for The museum also has the skeleton of William Burke who, along with his Plaques under the main entrance archway accomplice William Hare, became commemorate some important former staff infamous for supplying freshly and students. suffocated corpses for the University’s anatomists. After his execution Burke himself was publicly dissected by A grand public The Anatomy Museum Professor Alexander Monro, who quadrangle with an wrote a note: ‘This is written with the elaborate carved The Anatomy Museum was the blood of Wm Burke, who was hanged balcony and bell. A central element of the Medical at Edinburgh. This blood was taken private yard entered School, designed as a three-storey from his head.’ from the lane behind top-lit galleried hall, with skeletons allowed for the of whales and dolphins suspended For opening hours visit discreet delivery from the ceiling and a wealth of www.anatomy.mvm.ed.ac.uk/museum of bodies to the specimens on display. dissection rooms. OLD COLLEGE Look out for

Talbot Rice Gallery The public art gallery of the University of Edinburgh, the presents original exhibitions within a unique historical context. The exhibitions offer a distinctive programme of Scottish and international artists, with informed interpretation and lively educational events.

For opening hours and exhibitions visit • 1582 - A Royal Charter granted by www.ed.ac.uk/talbot-rice King James VI enabled the Town Council of Edinburgh to found its college, the Tounis College of Edinburgh. When appointed, the University’s • 1583 - The first students were admitted to The Rectors are carried round buildings on the Kirk O’Field site. sculpture on the quad in a chair. Rectors of top of the • - , an Edinburgh alumnus, the University have included 1789 dome is a drew up the plans for Old College but construction Winston Churchill, William gilded figure, stopped in 1793. Gladstone and Gordon Brown. representing • 1819–1827 - The building was completed by youth with William Playfair, who also designed the National the torch of Gallery and New College. learning.

• 1825 - Charles Darwin enrolled at the University of Edinburgh and studied in the College Museum, now the Talbot Rice Gallery. Currently, the Vice-Chancellor and • 1887 - The dome was added following Principal of the University has an the University’s tercentenary celebrations. office here. Old College is also home to the Edinburgh School • 2009–2011 - The University re-landscaped and to the Speculative Society, the quandrangle. a debating club founded in 1764. Iain Macwhirter is installed as rector in 2009. remains of Black’s The unsolved murder Joseph Black scientific laboratory. of Lord Darnley Enlightenment When Black retired, genius his equipment was In the 1500s this exploded, reducing stored in a cellar of area was known as much of the house to the old library, which the Kirk O’Field, and rubble. The bodies was then demolished early in the morning of Darnley and his to make way for the of 10 February 1567 servant were later new building. The finds it was the scene of a found in a nearby included fragments of thermometers, The Playfair dramatic murder. orchard. Somehow Scotland’s Library Hall they had escaped the test tubes, storage Henry Lord Darnley, house, but exactly jars and samples of greatest architects the second husband how they were mercury, arsenic and of Mary Queen of Professor Joseph Black, murdered remains by David Martin, Collection cobalt all used in his Scots, was lodging a mystery. of experiments. Black The architecture country, holding the there for the night. died in 1799 and was of Old College post of Architect of Darnley had made The man blamed by Joseph Black was buried in Greyfriars represents the the King’s Works many enemies among many for plotting the one of the leading Kirkyard, with a work of the great from 1761 to 1769. Scottish nobles, who murder was the Earl figures in the Scottish monument to mark architects Robert took this opportunity of Bothwell, but he Playfair was born in Enlightenment, a his grave. Today the Adam and William to exact revenge. was later acquitted London in 1790 but period in the 1700s University’s School of Playfair. and went on to Chemistry building is returned as a boy to At around 2am when Edinburgh was become the third named after Joseph In 1754 Adam visited his family home barrels of gunpowder at the forefront of husband of Mary Black to commemorate Rome, spending over in Edinburgh, and placed under new discoveries and Queen of Scots. this influential scientist. three years on the as a young man Darnley’s room innovations. Among his continent studying set himself up as many achievements, architecture. On his an architect. His Black discovered the return he established classical buildings existence of carbon a practice in London earned Edinburgh dioxide gas, and was with his younger the title ‘the Athens made Professor of brother James of the North’. He Chemistry at Edinburgh and developed a was awarded many University in 1766. distinctive style of important projects In 2010, during a architecture, based around the city, such major re-landscaping on his studies as the Royal Scottish of the quadrangle, of antiquity. He Academy and archaeologists made a became one of the National Gallery on remarkable find – the most successful , and the and fashionable . architects in the Map of the Kirk O’Field showing the bodies of Darnley and his servant, 1567. The National Archives, Ref. MPF1/366/1 From schoolboys OLD HIGH SCHOOL to surgeons

In the 1700s the High School was regarded as the city’s best educational establishment. Pupils who studied in this building included some of the city’s leading figures of the age, such as author Sir Walter Scott, Down politician Robert Dundas, 2nd Viscount Melville, and judge and with school conservationist Lord Cockburn. In his memoirs, the judge and Look out for Many of these pupils were university alumnus Henry taught by Alexander Adam, Cockburn reminisced about • 1777 - Built for the High School The main entrance with a classical a classical scholar and his time as pupil at the High to a design by Alexander Laing. portico with Roman ‘Doric’ columns. educational reformer. Adam was School in 1787: a popular teacher and, around • 1828 - Sold to the managers of 1805, fourteen former pupils ‘Having never been at a public the Royal Infirmary, and in 1832 The graffiti left by generations of commissioned school before, and this one became a surgical hospital, schoolboys around the main doorway. to paint his portrait. Another being notorious for its severity where the University held its member of staff was James and riotousness, I approached anatomy classes. Pillans, Rector of the school its walls with trembling, and until 1820. He is credited with felt dizzy when I sat down • 1905–1907 - Reconstructed inventing the blackboard, using amidst above 100 new faces. with a tower designed by Sir it with coloured chalks in his ‘The general tone of the for geography classes. the University’s Engineering and school was vulgar and harsh. Science Departments. In 1832 the building became Among the boys coarseness a surgical hospital, where the of language and manners was • 1931–1984 - The building housed University of Edinburgh held the only fashion ... No lady the University’s School its anatomy classes. Surgeon could be seen within its walls. of Geography. James Syme and antiseptic Nothing evidently civilised was pioneer were safe. Two of the masters, in • 2012 - Work started on particular, were so savage that transforming the building into the in charge of wards in this building, while at the same time any master doing now what Edinburgh Centre for Carbon they did every hour would Innovation, a state-of-the-art, professors in the University. certainly be transported.’ energy-efficient hub for knowledge, innovation and skills. Alexander Adam by Sir Henry Raeburn. PG 2038 - Scottish National Prrtrait Gallery Pioneers for women in medicine In 1869 Sophia Jex-Blake was one of a group of six Edinburgh students to make history: the first women in the UK to officially study medicine at university. Despite having many supporters, she faced opposition from lecturers, students and townspeople. In November 1870 there was even a OLD SURGEONS’ HALL riot outside Surgeons’ Hall as the women tried to sit their exams. Jex-Blake eventually founded the • 1697 - Built to first medical school for women in a design by Britain, of . Medicine for Women. • 1703 - The first One of the first students was public dissections Elsie Inglis, who went on to were conducted in Look out for make her own name in medicine. its new anatomy Following her training, she set theatre. The date carved above the main entrance. up the first all-female medical • 1832 - Surgeons practice in 1898. Inglis worked moved to a new tirelessly through her career, building on Nicolson setting up Edinburgh’s first Street, and the maternity hospital and the Scottish building became Women’s Hospital helping Allied a fever hospital soldiers during the First World War. attached to the Notwithstanding the pioneering efforts nearby Infirmary. of Jex-Blake, she was not in fact the first • 1995 - The building woman to study medicine at the University became the Faculty of Edinburgh. In 1812 a student called James of Social Sciences The plaque Barry qualified with a medical doctorate from the Graduate School. commemorating University, and went on to have a very successful Today it is occupied Elsie Inglis, a career as an army surgeon. Only after his death did by the Institute for pioneer for women the truth become clear: James Barry was actually the Study of Science, in medicine and a a woman. Sophia Jex-Blake Technology and leading suffragette. (1840–1912) Innovation. • 1625 - The house was built for the Dowager A memorable wedding day Countess of Home. In 1643 it passed to the Countess of Moray.

• 1650 - Oliver Cromwell used the house as his A garden temporary headquarters. for secrets • 1753 - Became the Tucked away at the back office of the British Montrose by James Drummond. NG624, Scottish National Portrait Gallery. of Moray House is the old Linen Bank until 1790. garden pavilion, which in • 1848 - Bought by the On Saturday 18 May the two men had the early 1700s was at Free Church of Scotland 1650, the balcony at fought on opposing the centre of the political and became a Teacher Moray House was sides during the Civil drama that saw Scotland OLD Training College. the scene of the final War. Argyll and England united in the revenge of the was a supporter Act of Union. MORAY HOUSE • 1998 - The University Marquess of Argyll of the Covenanters and of Edinburgh joins with over his arch-enemy Montrose was on the The tenant of Moray Moray House College. the Marquess of side of King Charles I. House at that time was Montrose. the Earl of Seafield, Lord • 2001 - The newest Montrose was met Chancellor of Scotland, additions to the buildings That day the house at the foot of the and the man charged with of St Leonard’s Land was the venue for by his securing the deal with on the Holyrood wedding reception of executioner, and England. The pavilion at campus were opened. Lord Lorne, son of the was paraded up the the bottom of his garden They house the Physical Marquess of Argyll, street bound to a high was perfect as a central Education and Sports and Lady Mary Stuart, chair on the back of a and discreet location for Science departments, daughter of the Earl of cart. The procession his supporters to meet, as well as gymnasia, Moray. However, Argyll stopped outside Moray without attracting too a laboratory and had something else to House for members much attention from those a swimming pool. celebrate that day. of the wedding party opposed to union. to come out on to the His arch-enemy, the balcony and gaze at In the 1800s it was Look out for Marquess of Montrose, their stricken enemy. converted into a hothouse had been captured It was said that one for growing oranges or The gateway with obelisk-shaped pillars and a few weeks before, vines. Then for a while a porter’s lodge. of the party spat on and that same day Montrose, but Argyll it was a sewing room, he was to be brought hid behind a curtain before being moved a The original stone balcony with elaborate into Edinburgh for unable to look him in short distance and rebuilt carving, and ‘strapwork’ decoration above execution. For the the face. against a neighbouring the windows. previous eight years wall in 1910. • 1845–1850 - Built to a design by ‘As high a son of liberty William Playfair as a church and NEW college for the Free Church of as any man in America’ Scotland. A plaque next to the of the College of New COLLEGE • 1858–1859 - The Assembly Hall for main entrance of New Jersey (later Princeton the Free Church of Scotland was College commemorates University). built to a design by . a student of the University who went Witherspoon was • 1899 - The Rainy Hall was added, on to help found a new a strong supporter named after Principal Robert Rainy. country: the United of the American States of America. Revolution and signed • 1929 - The Free Church and the the Declaration of Church of Scotland united and the John Witherspoon was Independence in Assembly Hall became the venue born in 1723 in Gifford, 1776. He was also an for the annual General Assembly East Lothian, and influential member of of the Church of Scotland. The studied at the University Congress and served on College merged with the Faculty of Edinburgh where he over 100 committees. of Divinity to become part of the gained his Master of Arts University of Edinburgh in 1935. and Divinity degrees. Today this former student of the University Look out for Witherspoon seemed is commemorated with The twin Gothic towers are a key The bronze statue destined for a successful statues at Princeton feature of the Old Town skyline of John Knox was career in the Church of University and in and frame the spire of the former sculpted by John Scotland, but in 1788 Washington DC. Highland Tolbooth behind on the Hutchinson he became president Royal Mile. in 1895. Originally sited on the Mound, it was Dr Thomas Chalmers first Principal of the college moved here in the 1930s. Dr Chalmers was at the University of to appoint ministers a popular preacher, Edinburgh. over the wishes of champion for the poor, the congregation. and the first Principal In 1843 Chalmers was of New College. at the heart of ‘The Chalmers became the Disruption’ when about first Moderator of the Chalmers started his one-third of the ministers Free Church, and led career in mathematics, in the Church of Scotland the efforts to set up a but at the age of 31 left and organised theological college for he turned to religion. themselves as the Free the Free Church, laying He took up a post in Church of Scotland. The the foundation stone for and became dispute was over the New College on Professor of Theology rights of wealthy patrons 3 June 1846. University of Edinburgh Visitor Centre 2 Charles Street Tel: 0131 650 2252 Edinburgh [email protected] EH8 9AD www.ed.ac.uk

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