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Ibrary/Berkeley Regional Oral History Office Maynard A. Amerine THE University of California Bancrof t ~ibrary/Berkeley Regional Oral History Office Maynard A. Amerine THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AND THE STATE'S WIPaE INDUSTRY With an Introduction by mi1 M. Mrak An Interview Conducted by Ruth Teiser Copy Number a1972 by The Regents of the University of California All uses of this manusoript are covered by a legal agreement between the Regents of the University of California and Maynard A. Amerine, dated 17 Maroh, 1972. The manusoript is thereby made available for research purposes. All literary rights in the manuscript, including the right to publish, are reserved to the Bancroft Library of the University of California at Berkeley. No part of the manuscript may be quoted for publication without the written permission of the Director of The Bancroft Library of the University of California at Berkeley. Requests for permission to quote for publication should be addressed to the Regional Oral History Office, 486 Library, and should include identification of the specific passages to be quoted, anticipated use of the passages, and identification of the user. The legal agreement with Maynard A, Amerine requires that he be notified of the request and allowed thirty days in which to respond, San Francisco Chronicle March 13, 1998 I Amerine to experiment and seek ,where he was a major In the Chem- Maynard Amerine new ways to breathe life back into ical Wqfare Service, stationed in- Maynard Amerine, a retired. the industry. Algeria and India. University of California enologist What made Mr. Amerine stand Mr. Amerine was a member of who was one of the pioneers of Cab- out in the field of wine men, as numerous wine and food organiza- ifornia's wine industry, died Wed- they were called 60 years ago, was tions and frequently traveled to nesday at his home in St. Helena. his ability to see California and its Europe and South America to con- Mr. Amerine, who had been in regional climates and micro-cli- sult for wineries, judge interna- mates as ideal for growing wine tional wine contests and give failing health because of Alzheim- grapes. er's disease, was 86. He was the sec- speeches on wine history. Like Mr. ond major figure in the wine in- In 1938, Mr. Amerine and an- Davies, he was also a member of dustry to die this week. On Tues- other UC Davis professor, Albert the Bohemian Club. day, Jack Davies, the owner of WMkler, used climate conditions Services for Mr. Amerine will 'Schramsberg Vineyards, died in to classify California's wine-grow- be at 11 am., Wednesday, at Grace Calistoga at the age of 74. ing regions into five districts, from Episcopal Church, 1314 Spring 'Td feel a lot better if some of Region I, the coolest districts, Street, St. Helena. our industry would just keep on which are near the coast, to Region Mr. Amerine, who was not mar- living," Robert Mondavi, the chair- V, in the San Joaquin Valley, with ried, is survived by three cousins man of Robert Mondavi Winery, its intense heat. - Richard Amerine, Mervyn said yesterday, saddened by the "Those five growing regions Amerine and Bill Amerine, all of deaths of two men he had known a are still used (as benchmarks) in the Modesto area. long time. "I knew Maynard from the industry," Ted Edwards, the -Michael Taylor the beginning, and he was an inspi- winemaker at Freemark Abbey ration to all ofus. He stimulated all Winery, in St. Helena, said yester- of us!' day. "It's still a tool. He was a pio- neer, a true patriarch of the mod-, Where Mr. Davies was known' ernday industry, in terms of giv. as an innovator in the nascent an world of California champagne, ing us tools from academic Mr. Arnerine's fame stemmed point of view on how to go about fromhis work over nearly 40 years making wine." in the scientificworld of winemak- Mondavi said "I built my whole ing. business" on Mr. Amerine's books on wine-making. "If you followed In 1936,Mr. Amerine joined the faculty at the Department of Viti- that, you could not help but do an culture (now the department of Vi- outstanding job. I used (them) as ticulture and Enology) at UC Da- my Bible." vis, at a time when the nation was Mr. Amerine wrote 'Table trying to recover from the austere Wines: The Technology of their effects of Prohibition. Production," (with MA Joslyn), The wine industry was practi- and several books on sensory eval- cally moribund, equipment was uation of wine, Perhaps his best sparsely available and there was known book is the "University of only a handful of good grapes in California/Sotheby Book of Cali- California. fornia Wine," co-edited with Bob, "People had forgotten all they Thompson and Doris Museatine knew before about California and published in 1984. wine," Mr. Amerine said years lat-. During World War 4, Mr.. er. But the blank slate inspired Mr. Amerine served in the Army,- ~alifornia's. proud , an d fessor in which prosprous w i n e industry the California paid an affectionate tribute found himself yesterday to the professor miring dignit who helped guide its first the academician. steps following the terrible blow-vf Prohibition. complained m oc kin g 1y. The occasion was the im- "None of them kissed me.'! pending retirement of May- nard A. A,merine, professor Amerine, a nati"e of Sari of 'enology and former chair- Jose, joined the university man the Departrrient of faculty as a junior enologist 17iticulture and Enology at - Or expert on wine-makin,6 - in 1935. as the industry MAYNARD AMERINE universityof california 'People had forgotten' at Davis. tried to recover from the 13 years of drought known as Eecause the luncheon was prohibition. by the industry's C 0 Ill m C! r Ciali sear& in grape-gfowing and wine-making was outlawed wine-makifig . t 0 help ,it$ Wine Institute, the tables at during those years. the Sheraton-Palace were struggling industry, .Amer- laden withwines a The professor recalled the .ine said. - ' . representative sweq of cal- Sorry state of the indmtry in He said the industry had sordalabels. ~h~ head ta- t h o s e Depression years: the ' advantage of a heavy ble was so authoritativq, there was no ecl~ipment,no 'flow of.'literatureand advice that members distribution system, 0 n 1y from university researchers mixed reds and whites for small amounts 0 f good at Davis, .andlater, Fresno. experimental rose. grapes .. "people had for- No other state -or country gotten all they knew before - could match this basic F r o m these gentlemen source material, lie said: came high praise of. the about 'California wine;" The Wine Institute, among tanned and vigorous guest of Today the indi~stryis look- other presented the honor; the most effec,tive ing forward to ' another with ,a leather. perhaps, being: "Everyone bi~mper c r o p after last bound .volunle of grateful who has ever raised a wine year's largest grape crush mess.xges from his friends in glass is, in some way, in of 365 million gallons. the industry. A quote . ijy debt to Maynard." other wine-growing states Benjamin Franklin was' en- Ernest Gallo, wryly .ac- like New york and ohio nev- graved on the cover: . knowledging Amerine's inter- er caught up with a 1930s de- "Wine is a constant proof national reputation, ds- cision by the state of Califor that God loves us and loves scribed travels with the pro- nia to invest in basic re- to see us happy." I TABLE OF CONTENTS -- Maynard A. Amerine PBEP'ACE INTRODUCTION iii INTERVIEW HISTORY EABLY YEARS EMPLOYMENT BY UNIVERSITY EARLY RESEARCH AT DAVIS ENOLOGY BUILDING AND NEW STAFF ORIGINS OF WINE BULLETINS THE HILGARDIA ON GRAPE VARIETIES COLOR RESEARCH THE POST-REPEAL WINE INDUSTRY THE 1938 PRORATE WARTIME DEVELOPMENTS THE POST-WAR UNIVERSITY EXTENSION WOBK AMERICAN SOCIETY OF ENOLOGISTS AND TAC POST-WAR PUBLICATIONS RECOLLECTIONS OF PEOPLE WINE JUDGINGS SENSORY EVALUATION COURS~AND BOOK UNIVERSITY ADMINISTRATORS THE UNIVEBSITY AND THE WINE AND GRAPE INDUSTRY BECENT CBMPUS AND UNIVERSIm RECOLLtECTIONS THE CUBRENT WINE INDUSTRY THE SAN FRAATCISCO WINE AND FOOD SOCIETY, BOHEMIAN CLUB AND SOME PHILOSOPHY THE CHANGING WINE INDUSTRY LACK OF STUDENTS THE INTERRELATION OF THE UNIVERSITY AND THE WINE INDUSTRY THE SAN JOAQUIN AS A QUALITY WINE DISTBICT PHYLLOXERA-RESISTANT STOCKS OR NOT? FLAVORED WINES MEW TYPES OF WINE HEROES IN THE WINE INDUSTRY CALIFORNIA BRANDY MORE ON WINE JUDGINGS STATE AND FEDERAL STANDARDS SPOKESMAN TO THE PUBLIC TEBCHING AND WRITING WINE MABKETS AND WINE QUALITY IMPROVEMENTS IN SHERRY PRODUCTION THE EXPERIMENTAL WINERY AT DAVIS TECHNOLOGI CAL ADVANCES IN THE INDUSTRY ENGINEERING ADVANCES NEW MATEBIALS AND METHODS FOUNDATION GWTS AND SABBATIC&LEI mIvEmIm MEN AS CONSULTANTS APPENDIX I - Published Writings of Maynard A. Amerine 110 APPENDIX I1 - Article from Scientific American 129 INDEX (For Wines and Grapes see page 142) CALIFORNIA WINE INDUSTRY INTERVIEWS Interviews CompZeted by November, 1983 Leon D. Adams RevitaZizing the CaZifomia Wine Industry 1974 (154 pp. ) Maynard A. Amerine The University of CaZifornia and the State's Wine Industry 1971 (142 PP. ) Philo Biane Wine Making in Southern CaZifornia and RecoZZections of Fruit Industries, Inc. 1972 (100 pp. ) Swke 3. rul-itchfield, Carl F. We:lte, adAndrew G. Frericks The Califom-La Vine I:~.dust~~D&ng the Depression 1972 '; 79 pp. ) William V. Cruess A Half Century of Food and Wine Technology 1967 (122 pp. ) ~ayn&dA. Joslyn A TechnoZogist Views the CaZiforniu Vine Industry 1974 (151 ~p.) Horace 0. Lanza and Harry Baccigaluppi CclZifornia Grape Products and Other Wine Enterprises 1971 (150 pp.) Louis M.
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