VINUM EXTRA SPECIAL PUBLICATION May 2016 www.vinum.info
extra
Geneva, what a catch! Fish-wine pairings Top tips and tastemakers in the region Open Day and the Gourmet Rally 04
12 08
10 06 Selected highlights from this special issue: our interview with Chandra Kurt, ambassador of the 2015 vintage (page 4); tasting the winners of the Sélection des Vins de Genève contest (page 6); Open Day 2016 (page 8); the Gourmet Rally 2016 (page 10) and our special report on match- ing Geneva wines with fish (page 12 onwards). Read the “Geneva 2016” VINUM Special on your tablet: download the app for free now. Further information: www.vinum.info/ appangebote
Contents
04 2015 vintage Editorial Interview with Chandra Kurt, Ambassador for this vintage What a catch! 06 Sélection des Vins de Genève The Sanglier, the Marcassin and the other prize-winners from e often find ourselves marvelling at the dynamism of this constantly- the 2015 awards evolving wine region, and singing the praises of its inimitable local pro- duce, so much so that we occasionally forget just how central the iconic W 08 Open Day lake is to the identity of Romandy’s biggest city. Lake Geneva is the soul of the region, a natural treasure celebrated in all its glory in this special issue. Lake Geneva, or Lac Behind the scenes at a small estate Léman to the French-speaking community, is home to around thirty species of fish and a big winery and shellfish. Unfortunately, perch remains an all too familiar sight on Swiss menus (95% of the fillets consumed in Switzerland are actually imported from Eastern 10 Gourmet Rally 2016 Europe or Africa). Nonetheless, talented chefs throughout the region are also work- Georgette Gribi and Philippe Bocquet: ing with tastier local varieties such as vendace, Arctic char, pike, crayfish, freshwater two passionate winemakers ohner Zürich, Martin Hemmi ohner Zürich, trout and burbot. Served en tartare, à la meunière or pan-seared, these local fish can easily hold their own against the more famous species imported from the Atlantic 12 Geneva wines and fish and the Mediterranean, which you’ll find in all of the Canton’s finest eateries. Pairing wines with the bounty of The chefs and sommeliers we spoke to were unanimous: the diversity of Geneva’s the lake (and the oceans) wines allows for subtle, intelligent combinations with all sorts of seafood. While Chasselas, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay make for timeless fish-wine pairings, 16 Spotlight on the Geneva with the help of a few Pinot Gris, Savagnin Blanc, Gamaret and barrel-aged reds wine region our experts have conjured up some truly miraculous matches. 18 Right Bank 21 Between theArve and Rthehône Alexandre Truffer 24 Between theArve and the Lake Deputy Editor 26 The Winemakers of the Cave de
égis Colombo, Siffert / weinweltfoto.ch, Philipp R Siffert / weinweltfoto.ch, égis Colombo, Director of the French edition of VINUM Genève
Photos: R Photos: 27 Event Diary
EDITOR / PUBLISHER ADVERTISING All copyright and publishing rights to this publication, Intervinum AG, Thurgauerstrasse 66, CH-8050 Zurich AVD Goldach AG, Sulzstrasse 10–12, 9403 Goldach or parts thereof, are reserved. Any use or exploitation, Tél. +41 (0)44 268 52 40, Fax +41 (0)44 268 52 65 Tél. +41 (0)71 844 91 53, Fax. +41 (0)71 844 93 45 particularly reprinting, copying, microfilming, storage [email protected], www.vinum.ch [email protected] and/or use on optical and electronic media, requires Nicola Montemarano, publishing manager the written permission of the publisher. The content DESIGN AND PRODUCTION of this publication has been checked carefully. EDITORSHIP Graphic design and layout: Philippe Rérat However, the authors, editors and publishers accept VINUM Extra “Geneva” is a special supplement of VINUM, Rédaction, Postfach 59 61, CH-8050 Zurich Cover picture: Philippe Rérat, no responsibility for its accuracy. VINUM, Europe’s Wine Magazine. ISSN 1663-2567, Tél. +41 (0)44 268 52 60, Fax +41 (0)44 268 52 65 iStock / Curaga, EHStock published May 2016. [email protected] Photos: Michaël Legentil / Bureau photographique This supplement is the result of collaboration between Thomas Vaterlaus, Chief Editor VINUM and the ’Office de Promotion des Produits Production/sales management: Alexandre Truffer, Deputy Editor Agricoles de Genève (OPAGE) in Bernex (GE). Agentur Graf, CH-9001 St. Gallen for Romandy, head of texts [email protected] ISSUER Rolf Frank (head of production) Roland Köhler
Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 03 Chandra Kurt Born in 1968 in Colombo, Sri Lanka, Chandra Kurt is a prolific author and journalist specialising in wine. Along with her contributions to classic works such as Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book and The Oxford Companion to Wine by Jancis Robinson, since 1998 she has published the annual Wein- seller guide to supermarket wines, now also available in French. An in-demand consultant for Swiss wines, she also curates the Chandra Kurt Collection with selections from leading Swiss produc- ers Provins, Bolle and Tamborini Vini. www.chandrakurt.com
Chandra Kurt interview Ambassador of the 2015 vintage
Every year in the springtime, the winemakers of Geneva officially ring in the new vintage, turning the spotlight on the latest wines freshly released to the market. The enduring popularity of this tradition owes much to the succession of prestigious Am- bassadors selected to represent each vintage. Zep, Carole Bouquet, José Vouillamoz, Michel Pont, Paolo Basso and Brigitte Rosset are just a few of the famous faces who have lent their support to successive generations of Geneva’s finest. The 2016 ceremo- ny will be held on 11th May at Château de Penthes, but at time of printing the name of this year’s godfather remains shrouded in mystery. However, we do know for sure that the godmother of the new vintage is none other than wine journalist Chandra Kurt, who was more than happy to share with us her passion for the wines of Geneva.
04 vinum Geneva Extra 2016 Christening the new vintage A few of the famous faces who have served as am- bassadors for previous vintages: chef Marie-Josèphe Raboud and football coach Michel Pont (top left); cartoonist Zep (bottom left); World’s Best Som- melier Paolo Basso and actress Carole Bouquet (top right); actress Brigitte Rosset and ampelographer José Vouillamoz (bottom right).
What do the wines of Geneva What advice would you give Will the 2015 vintage really mean to you? to a visitor coming to discover the be as excellent as everybody is Geneva is representative of the great di- Geneva wine region? predicting? versity of Swiss wines, which is nowhere The ideal way to discover the region is to 2015 will be exceptional, because it was more evident than in this Canton. Over come for the Open Days. Otherwise, I’d a perfect year in every respect, meaning half of the region’s vineyards are planted recommend hiring a small car or a bike that even the most modest wines will be with red varieties: Pinot Noir, Gamay, and going to visit a few winemakers di- well above average. If you’re interested in
ezo.ch Gamaret, Garanoir, Cabernet Franc, Cab- rectly. That’s the best way to really get to building a collection of Genevan wines, ernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. And grips with a region, with its philosophy 2015 is an excellent place to start. Of yet the whites – Chardonnay, Sauvignon and with the style of its wines. The more course nothing in this world is perfect, Blanc and Aligoté – also produce excel- you know about a wine, the more you’ll and a lot of what makes a wine unique ohner Zürich, R ohner Zürich, lent results. And the proximity to France, enjoy drinking it. It’s also important to comes from the work done by the win- the world’s most important winemaker, visit local restaurants, because chefs and emaker to adapt to nature’s whims. In has undoubtedly had a positive influ- sommeliers will often be able to give you any case, it looks as though 2015 is shap- ence on the development of winemaking excellent tips on which winemakers to ing up to be one of the best vintages since
Photos: Philippe R Photos: in Geneva. visit locally. the turn of the millennium.
Christening the new vintage Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 05 Contest The winners of the Sélection des Vins de Genève 2015
The panel of judges at the 16th annual Sélection des Vins de Genève competition tasted a total of 654 wines. 61 were awarded gold medals, with just 6 walking away with special prizes. We asked Vincent Debergé and Geoffrey Bentrari, sommeliers at Hôtel Beau Rivage and Hôtel Président Wilson respectively, for their tasting notes on these prize-winning wines. Vincent Debergé, Sommelier at Hôtel Beau Rivage
Cave Les Crêtets Pinot Noir 2014 | Prize: Le Sanglier Cabernet Franc Les Temps Modernes 2013 | Prize: Le Renard This elegant red, which Vincent Debergé recommends pair- “A deep, ruby-red robe with hints of crimson. A charming, ex- ing with light poultry dishes or coastal fish, won the San- pressive bouquet of red fruit aromas – raspberry, redcurrant – glier de Bronze (Bronze Boar) award, a statue by Robert and a touch of rose petal. Structured and fresh on the palate, Hainard awarded to the highest-scoring wine in the Sélec- with fine-grained tannins, medium volume and a blend of ripe tion des Vins de Genève, all categories included. The head vine fruits, strawberry and mint.” Those are the tasting notes sommelier from the Beau Rivage was impressed with the jotted down by Vincent Debergé, who recommends pairing intense, ruby-red robe and the somewhat timid bouquet this wine with a slow-cooked osso bucco or veal shanks with which – after a few seconds’ swirling or a brief spell in a ca- citrus fruit and cashews – a recipe voted Dish of the Year by rafe – opens up to reveal delicate aromas including black- Geneva’s Café and Restaurant Guild. Just like the winner of currant bud, mint flower, blackberry and a hint of smoki- the prestigious Sanglier prize, ‘Les Temps Modernes’ is the ness. Our Geneva wine expert was also won over by the work of Sophie and Philippe Plan, owners of Cave Les Crêtets supple palate, framed by delicate tannins. Notes of wild in Satigny. In addition to these two coveted trophies, the raspberry and crushed strawberries are accented with hints estate won three gold medals and five silver medals at the of star anise and white pepper, building to a charming, sup- Sélection des Vins de Genève 2015. ple finish. www.lescretets.ch
06 vinum Geneva Extra 2016 Sélection des Vins de Genève Domaine des Alouettes Chasselas Les Alouettes 2014 | Prize: La Fouine The fruit of a collaboration between Jean-Daniel and Florian Ramu, winemakers at the Domaine des Alouettes in Satigny, and Thierry Ciampi, oenological consultant for Schenk, this 2014 Chasselas has impressed the judges at various competi- tions. Not only did it win the Journalists’ Choice award at the Sélection, it also won the prestigious Best Geneva Wine prize at the World Chasselas Awards, finishing in eighth place over- all. Vincent Debergé recommends serving it with steamed sole, accompanied with candied lemon and braised chicory. His ver- dict on Les Alouettes: “a dynamic colour with great sparkle, and a delicious bouquet of lime blossom and summer fruits. Smooth opening, great volume and a finish embellished by Jean-Daniel and hawthorn blossom and a refreshing bitterness.” Florian Ramu www.domaine-des-alouettes.ch
Fabian Rochaix and Sébastien Schwarz Domaine Les Perrières Chasselas Les Millerands 2014 | Gamay Les Perrières 2014 Prize: Le Trophée Tradition Awarded for the past two years by the Société des Vieux-Grenadiers de Genève, the Trophée Tradition is presented to the estate with the best average score for its Chasselas and Gamay offerings. Once again, the precise vinification techniques and ‘popular, indulgent’ style of Les Perrières won over the jury. Ripe and generous, the Chasselas impressed Geoffrey Bentrari with its substance on the palate, striking an expert balance between refreshing mineral- ity and rich texture. Showered with gold medals at Expovina, the World Gamay Awards and the Sélection des Vins de Genève, the Gamay 2014 boasts a “garnet robe with hints of violet, and a pleas- ant bouquet dominated by strawberry, raspberry and liquorice aromas. The attack is nice and juicy while remaining fresh on the palate, framed by silky-smooth tannins. A wine which is simple yet delicious, a perfect match for traditional fare such as calf kidneys with mashed potato.” www.lesperrieres.ch
Domaine de Chafalet Guy Ramu Le mathurin | Prize: Le Marcassin A blend of 80% Gamaret and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, Le Mathurin is vinified and aged for two years in oak barrels. This powerful red is the brainchild of Mathurin Ramu, who works alongside his father Guy on the family estate. An experiment which turned out to be a stroke of genius from the young oe- nologist, who now has his own signature wine! Le Mathurin certainly won over the students of Geneva’s Ecole Hôtelière, who awarded it the coveted Marcassin trophy. Geoffrey Bent- rari suggests pairing this special cuvée with venison and wild mushrooms, and describes it in glowing terms: “an elegant, garnet-red robe with just a hint of brown, and a bouquet of smoky, roasted notes underpinned by hints of redcurrant jelly, blackcurrant jam and ripe peppers. Forthright and generously- structured, with mature tannins and a refreshingly crisp finish.” www.domainedechafalet.ch
Sélection des Vins de Genève Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 07
A new look for the Cave de Genève, presented by (left to right) Martin Wiederkehr (Director of the Cave), Florian Barthassat (œnologist), Luc Barthassat (State Councillor) and Didier Fischer (President of the Cave).
Open Day Unmissable We caught up with the estate managers of two very different vineyards to talk about this annual highlight in Geneva’s wine calendar, an event which has attracted tens of thousands of wine-lovers over the past thirty years.
Nicolas Seiler is the estate manager at Martin Wiederkehr is Director of the Cave de Geneva’s 29th Château des Bois. This magnificent château Genève, the company whose wines account has a small vineyard of 4.5 hectares, planted for a third of the Geneva region’s total grape annual Open Day with nine grape varieties and producing harvest, with high-profile brands such as On Saturday 28th May 2016, the eleven different wines. Baccarat and Clémence. vast majority of winemaking estates in the canton of Geneva, How important is the Open Day for you? How important is the Open Day for you? almost 90 wineries in all, will The Open Day is the biggest event in the calendar It’s an extremely important event, because it’s be open to the public. Through- for a small estate like ours. We get a lot of visitors, when we introduce our latest vintage. In a way, out the day, from 10am to 5pm, particularly from other Cantons in Romandy, who it’s like the start of our commercial year and is the visitors will be invited to taste the wouldn’t make the trip otherwise. I’m German- only opportunity we get to have direct contact be- most recently-bottled vintages. speaking, and so was my predecessor, so we have tween the winemakers of the Cave and the peo- For the region’s whites and non- a good network of contacts on the other side of ple who drink our wines. barrel reds, this will be the first the Saane, and a lot of our clients enjoy the oppor- opportunity to taste the 2015 tunity to come down and spend a nice day in the What are visitors looking for? vintage, which is already being vineyards of Geneva. Visitors come to discover our latest products, and universally hailed as an excep- of course our latest vintage. The fact that different tional year. As for the barrel-aged What are visitors looking for? Cantons have open days throughout the month of specialities, this year’s Open Day Some people come along just to visit the estate May allows wine-lovers to discover new products will focus on the 2014 or even and have a glass of wine, others want to taste the from all of Switzerland’s winemaking regions. 2013 vintages. For the 29th year whole range. This diversity is borne out in the or- running visitors will also get the ders we get, with some people snapping up the What would you like to see for the future? chance to sample local delica- barrel-aged reds and others going mad for the Given the success of the Open Day, I think we need cies from the region’s passionate Chasselas. to make sure that it becomes a permanent fixture. artisanal producers, while strolling People are very attached to this event, it’s the fruit through the vines or even enjoy- What would you like to see for the future? of forty or fifty years’ worth of effort to educate ing a concert at one of the more We’ve been involved with the Open Day since people about Swiss wines. Particularly in the Ger- festive estates. There will be free the beginning. It’s a concept which works well man-speaking parts of the country, where people shuttle buses between the various and there’s nothing that we’d change too dras- are really starting to get back into Romandy wine. winemaking villages in order to tically. As for us, we’re planning to do more to I’d like to see us attracting more consumers from avoid any traffic problems. A full
égis Colombo promote the other products of Château des Bois, across the Saane; it’s a nice way of increasing the list of all estates taking part is which is more than just a vineyard. sense of cohesion between the different linguistic available on the website:
Photos: R Photos: www.chateaudesbois.ch regions of our country. www.cavedegeneve.ch www.lesvinsdegeneve.ch
Caves ouvertes 2016 Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 09 Gourmet Rally 2016 Down on the good old Farm The success of the Gourmet Rally owes much to the quality of the regional produce on offer. We met two passionate producers whose work has been recognised with the ‘Genève Région-Terre Avenir’ label: Georgette Gribi and Philippe Bocquet.
10 vinum Geneva Extra 2016 2016 gourmet rally Useful a glass of Mondeuse Blanche, one of the Information estate’s four speciality wines (most of the fruit produced on these eight hectares is Date: 20th August 2016 entrusted to the Cave de Genève), Jean Place: Between the Arve Rivollet admits that he never gets tired of and the Lake (Start Jussy) admiring the view which, as 2016’s Gour- Route: 10 kilometres met Rally participants will soon find out, Duration: approx. 6 hours takes in both Mont Blanc and Moléson. Price: 80 Francs (glass And don’t worry, Jean has already put an included). Advance booking order in for a healthy dose of sunshine on compulsory (limited number the day, making sure the 2016 rally will be André Wiblé and Georgette Gribi of places available): another one to remember. www.geneveterroir.ch When we dropped in the full menu was still being fine-tuned, but the main course was already decided. Philippe Bocquet will be providing the lamb, from his flock of Brun Noir du Pays. The young charges of this passionate farmer spend their whole lives roaming freely outdoors. These lambs are GRTA-certi- fied, grazing only on local pastures and slaughtered at an abattoir just a few miles away from the farm. “The lambs which we’ll be eating on the Rally will be born in a few weeks’ time. They reach the per- fect weight, about twenty kilos, at the age of four or five months. After that they lose their milk teeth and are no longer lambs; they become ewes or rams.” After the roast lamb our intrepid hikers will discover another culinary speciality of the Gourmet Rally: goat’s cheeses from Champ Courbe. Located in the picturesque village of Cartigny, this expansive family farm is home to a flock of 24 Alpine Chamoisée goats tended by André Wiblé and his sister, Georgette Gribi. André is a math- ematician by trade, and Georgette a theo- logian, but they decided to join forces to give the old family homestead a new Jean Rivollet lease of life. “To be honest the goats were We can cater for groups of 15 to just a bit of a hobby when my husband 150 people. We use only GRTA- and I first moved here in 1996. We started label produce (‘Genève Région-Terre Ave- with three, then six. But we soon had nir’, a certification scheme introduced more cheese than we needed! We started in 2004 to guarantee the provenance by selling the rest to a few friends, but “of local produce): our fish comes from then word of mouth got going and we a fisherman from Vésenaz, our meat found ourselves with more customers. comes from a butcher in Puplinge and That’s when we decided to do it profes- our vegetables come from an organic sionally. André takes care of the animals, farm in Meinier,” explains Jean Rivollet, while I deal with the cheese production owner of the Domaine de Crève-Cœur in and commercial side of things,” explains Choulex, as he shows us around the six the academic shepherdess, an Old Tes- bedrooms of his guest house. Ten years tament specialist who still holds a part- ago the family farm was converted into time post with the Eglise Protestante a gîte, with one of the self-contained de Genève apartments fully equipped for visitors www.creve-coeur.ch with restricted mobility. As he pours out www.chevrerie.ch
2016 gourmet rally
Fishing in Lake Geneva As of October 2015 there were Gastronomy 146 registered fishing boats active on Lake Geneva, with 82 on the Swiss side of the lake. Geneva’s 27.2-kilometre stretch of shoreline is home to 18 boats, and that’s without counting the Fish, a 1500 amateur fishing permits issued by the Canton. In the year 2014 alone, amateur anglers caught 31.5 tonnes of fish, while the professionals brought in passion for almost 70 tonnes. A quick look at the available statistics (profes- sional and amateur fishing in Lake Geneva as a whole) reveals that, of the 1240 tonnes of fish caught each year in the lake, the excellence most common species are as follows: 824 tonnes of vendace, Geneva’s 1500 amateur and 18 professional fishermen 296 tonnes of perch, 40 tonnes of pike, 31 tonnes of bleak, pull out over a hundred tonnes of fish from the lake 19.5 tonnes of Arctic char, 12 tonnes of trout, 8 tonnes of every year, with the majority of that haul going to local crayfish and 6 tonnes of burbot. restaurants. While many of these eateries may be con- As for the twenty or so other species on the list – such as carp, tent to serve up the ‘classics’ without much in the way eel and bream – the quantities rarely exceed a few dozen kilos of creativity, there are also plenty of talented chefs – per year. These figures tell us a tireless devotees of freshness and quality who master lot about how Western Europe’s largest lake has evolved over the subtle nuances of fresh and saltwater fish – working the years. 25 years ago, only wonders with the tastiest morsels the lake has to offer. 625 tonnes found their way into the fishermen’s nets, barely half We dropped into four of the region’s best fish restau- of the annual catch these days. In 1989, bleak (233 tonnes) and rants for a chat about the finest products from the lake perch (215 tonnes) were the stars and from more distant waters, seeking out the perfect of Lake Geneva, far outstripping catches of vendace (75 tonnes), pairings for Geneva wines. burbot (39 tonnes), trout (29 tonnes), Arctic char (12 tonnes) and pike (3 tonnes).
Gastronomy Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 13 Your guides for this goRolfurmet odyssey, in search of the perfect pairings of Geneva’s local fish and wines: Dominique Gauthier, chef at Le Chat Botté (bottom left); Corinne and Jean-Marc Bessire, owners of Le Cigalon, (top left); Patrick Moleins – chef at Les Fourneaux du Manège and a pike virtuoso – and Michel Roth, chef at the Bayview, the fine dining restaurant of the Hôtel Président Wilson (bottom right). Les Fourneaux du Manège. In honour here before taking over the reins in 2001, Le Cigalon, a mecca of our visit, Patrick, a former fisherman works with products of impeccable qual- for fish-lovers himself, braved the storm with his son ity, allowing his Mediterranean influenc- Ludovic to bring in a selection of spe- es to come to the fore. To complement For the past twenty years, Geneva’s fish- cialities from the lake. In the hands of the chef’s tartare of langoustine with lovers have venerated one address like chef Thibaut Colin, the day’s catch was Jerusalem artichoke soup, abalone on a no other: Le Cigalon. Awarded a Michelin swiftly transformed into trout yakitori bed of samphire and wild turbot with sea star shortly after opening, and racking up and Arctic char steak served on potato urchin emulsion, Vincent Debergé opted 17 points in the Gault & Millau guide in blinis. These starters were followed up for a very special wine: “The Savagnin the meantime, this restaurant by Corinne with a duo of pike and burbot, cooked Blanc from Nicolas Cadoux’s Domaine and Jean-Marc Bessire well deserves whole and carved up with enviable des Graves is fresh and lively, but also rich its reputation as the region’s ‘temple of precision by the Moleins themselves. and full-bodied. Especially in a vintage fish’. “Fish is the driving force of our res- A dish served with a side of aquatic biol- like 2011. It needs to be paired with fish taurant. Our menu changes every two ogy: “these two fish are both carnivorous. or shellfish which can hold their own. months to match the seasons, as there Burbot live entirely off the eggs of other What’s more, it finishes with a subtle hint are more seasons for fish than there are fish, particularly the Arctic char. The pike of gentian which is a perfect match for for vegetables,” explains Corinne Bessire. is a hunter. Both of them are delicious, root vegetables such as the Jerusalem “Depending on the day’s catch we also but they’re not all that popular because artichoke.” www.beau-rivage.ch have a regularly rotating selection of spe- of the way they look and their bones.” cials. The menu features around ten dif- Patrick Moleins accompanied this main ferent varieties from the Mediterranean course with a trio of red wines dominat- and the Atlantic, as well as all the classics ed by Gamaret. Special mention must go Stunning view: from the lake.” Her husband steps in to to the Cuvée des Fourneaux du Manège, Président Wilson remind us of Le Cigalon’s golden rule: an unfiltered 2011 crafted by Christian no farmed fish! When the winter winds Guyot. When asked about the quality At the Bayview, the fine-dining restaurant are lashing the banks of Lake Geneva, of the water in Lake Geneva, our expert of the Hôtel Président Wilson (1 Michelin as they were when we stopped by, ven- challenged a few popular misconcep- Star and 18/20 in Gault & Millau), Michel dace, pike, trout and crayfish are simply tions: “a lake which is too clean will have Roth explains that “fish is more difficult taken off the menu. To bring out the less fish. Some of the waste humans put to cook than meat because it’s more frag- best from a tartare of salmon or a fillet of into the lake stimulates the development ile: it’s less forgiving of mistakes. Each bass, Corinne Bessire draws upon an ex- of algae, and by extension the develop- species requires specific technical knowl- tensive cellar of local wines. “I’m a huge ment of certain species which make up edge in terms of spotting its freshness believer in local wines, and especially the diet of larger, carnivorous fish. In the and working with its unique flavours.” the winemakers behind them. I like my 1970s, a perch born in May would be big Crowned Meilleur Ouvrier de France and whites nice and crisp. I want wines you enough to eat by September. Nowadays winner of the coveted Bocuse d’Or, Roth can drink, not wines you need to chew.” it takes four or five years. If 95% of the adheres to a strict philosophy: “It’s impor- For the main course, Corinne is not afraid perch fillets served around Lake Geneva tant that you never overwhelm the fish, to suggest a local red. “Twenty years ago, come from the Baltic Sea or lakes in Es- it needs to be instantly recognisable. The not long after Le Cigalon first opened, tonia, it’s because the waters there aren’t aim is to elevate that fish to gastronomic we had a table full of members from the as clean and that allows the fish to grow status with the intelligent use of sauces Club Prosper Montagné. I took the risk of much more rapidly.” and accompaniments.” And Michel Roth matching a red wine with their fish. The www.fourneauxdumanege.ch certainly does just that with his Plou- venerable gentlemen were outraged, and gastel abalone served with longeole sus- it caused quite a fuss. Nowadays people age, not to mention the Arctic char with are more open-minded, especially be- braised endives which he prepared espe- cause Geneva reds are tasty and well- Purring with pleas- cially for our visit. To bring out the best structured, but not overbearing.” ure at Le Chat Botté in this fish, perhaps the most elegant in www.le-cigalon.ch Lake Geneva, head sommelier Geoffrey Head Sommelier at the legendary Hôtel Bentrari plumped for “the terroir of Pei- Beau-Rivage, Vincent Debergé regularly ssy, rather than one winemaker in partic- travels the length and breadth of the Ge- ular. That’s why I chose the Cuvée 912, a Fish Festival at Les neva wine region unearthing fresh gems barrel-aged Chardonnay which is elegant, Fourneaux for his clients at the hotel’s restaurant, Le crisp and profound. It’s made by the vil- Chat Botté. With 18 points in the Gault & lage’s seven winemakers, and sold at auc- Another spot well-known to local fish Millau guide as well as a Michelin star, tion to raise funds for the Hôpiclowns connoisseurs is Onex, where in 2006 the restaurant offers a five course fish- foundation, who visit sick children in Sophie and Patrick Moleins joined forc- based tasting menu. Chef Dominique hospital.” es with Stéphane Clément to take over Gauthier, who started out as a sous-chef www.hotelpresidentwilson.ch
Gastronomy Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 15 VINUM-Wineguide 90 nuances of Genevan wine Céligny 14
Bâle Zurich
40 Hermance Berne
Lausanne Lake Geneva 39 Chevrens Collex-Bossy 13 38 Anières
Geneva 36 Corsier
Meinier Collonge-Bellerive Gy 34 35 Genthod 12 37 33 Jussy Choully 7 Meyrin Bellevue 11 5 Choulex 9 Bourdigny 31 Essertines Vernier 8 Satigny 30 Cologny 6 1 32 Presinge 4 Peissy Dardagny 10 Peney Geneva 2 Russin 3 24 Aire-la-Ville Carouge 27 22 Bernex Arve 23 Cartigny 25 Plan-les-Ouates 16 Avully 20 Lully Sézenove 29 Veyrier 18 Athenaz 21 28 Troinex 19 Laconnex Rhône 15 Avusy 26 Landecy 17 Soral
The banks of Lake Geneva are home to a dazzling array of grape varieties and vinification techniques, a diversity that is celebrated and explored in this tasting guide which reflects all of the many nuances – spanning the spectrum from Blanc de Blancs to Noir Divin – of Switzerland’s third-largest wine region.
or the second year running, VINUM has the myriad of nuances of the Geneva wine (52 hectares), Pinot Blanc (20 hectares), Aligoté decided to devote a special issue of the region. By way of an introduction, we thought (16 hectares), Pinot Gris and Gamaret (11 each). F magazine to compiling a comprehen- it might be useful to start with a general over- Nowadays that picture is very different. Chas- sive panorama of Geneva’s wines. For help in view of what goes on in the Confederation’s selas (305 hectares) and Gamay (361 hectares) bringing this ambitious project to fruition, we third-largest winemaking region. The website have seen their surface areas shrink by a quar- turned to OPAGE (the Office for the Promo- of the Federal Office for Agriculture provides ter, and this downward trend shows no sign of tion of Agricultural Products from Geneva) comprehensive statistics on the evolution of stopping: in the last year alone the traditional and asked every wine producer from the Can- Switzerland’s winegrowing industry over the white variety shed 24 hectares while its red ton of Geneva to submit a bottle which best past two decades (1994 to 2014). According to cousin lost 10. The surface area of Riesling x represented their work. The vast majority of these figures, in 2014 there were a total of 1408 Sylvaner has also been slashed by two-thirds. Geneva’s winemakers responded enthusias- hectares of vines planted in the region around Meanwhile, replanting in recent years has seen tically, and we received a total of 85 samples Lake Geneva. This includes the 146 hectares rival varieties come to the fore. Pinot Noir (150 for tasting. Our call for submissions imposed planted along the border. This total was down hectares) has colonised forty more hectares, no limits in terms of the type, colour, vinifica- by twenty hectares from the previous year, while Chardonnay vines (100 hectares) have tion style or vintage of the wine presented for but the total planted surface area has actually almost doubled. Meanwhile, Gamaret (121 hec- consideration. Winemakers were free to pre- increased by almost 65 hectares over the past tares) has increased its reach tenfold. In recent sent whichever of their wines they felt best twenty years. Twenty years ago, Chasselas years we have also seen incursions by varieties represented the pinnacle of their craftsman- (511 hectares) and Gamay (516 hectares) vines that were virtually unknown here in the past:
égis Colombo ship, be it a Divico, an unfiltered Chasselas clearly outnumbered Pinot Noir (113 hectares), Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Merlot, Garanoir Primeur, a Garanoir rosé or even a 2005 sweet followed by a patchwork of other varieties: and Cabernet have all become specialities of
hoto: R P hoto: red Galotta. This guide is all about exploring Riesling x Sylvaner (57 hectares), Chardonnay Geneva’s 21st-century winemaking culture.
spotlight on the geneva wine region Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 17 Right Bank
Essertines (1)
Domaine Dugerdil Dardagny Domaine du Centaure Sophie Dugerdil Claude Ramu Amicalement Vôtre 2014 Kerner de Dardagny Saturnales 2015 Matured in oak barrels, this spicy blend of Syrah Dense colour with flashes of gold. An expressive Domaine de Chafalet and Garanoir arrives draped in a deep purple bouquet of exotic fruit aromas (passionfruit, Guy & Mathurin Ramu robe. Notes of pepper, cloves and sandalwood melon, apricot) which spill over into the palate, Le Mathurin rub shoulders in the nose and on the palate, with with rich texture and a long-lasting finish. A garnet-red robe and a warm, expressive a rich body which will benefit from a few more www.domaine-du-centaure.ch bouquet that matches dark berry aromas such years in the cellar. as cherry and prune with lighter, floral touches. www.domaine-dugerdil.ch Rich, powerful flavours supported by nicely- rounded tannins. An ambitious wine which lingers long on the palate, with an intriguing hint of spice. www.domainedechafalet.ch Clos des Pins Marc Ramu Stéphane Gros Bec à miel L’Ambroisie A sweet Muscat with a resplendent, gold-flecked A demi-sec crafted using traditional methods, robe and an expressive bouquet of raisin, honey L’Ambroisie is not short on surprises: a dense, and plum aromas, topped with an intriguing hint deep garnet-red robe, an exuberant bouquet of of curry spices. Opulent on the palate, with an Domaine des Esserts crushed strawberries accented with a dash of expert blend of sweetness and crisp freshness. Raymond & Réjane Ramu cinnamon, delicate bubbles, generous structure Tel. + 41 (0)22 754 14 57 Diolinoir 2014 and an intensely fruity finish. Deftly combining concentration and finesse, www.stephane-gros.ch Domaine des Rothis this hearty Diolinoir arrives clad in a deep crim- Jean-Pierre Rothlisberger son robe. The bouquet is bustling with elegant www.domaine-des-rothis.ch notes of strawberry, raspberry, violet and blackberry, echoed on the palate with its neat, crisp finish. www.domainedesesserts.ch Domaine Les Hutins Emilienne Hutin-Zumbach Dardagny (2) Gentil Blanc 2012 Les Secrets du Soleil This Savagnin Blanc has emerged triumphant Philippe & Christine Vocat from several years in the cellar, developing a Chardonnay 2014 Domaine des Crêts-Malval straw-yellow robe, an expressive bouquet of Splendid colour and an expressive bouquet Jacques & Roxane Pottu pear, almond and acacia honey aromas and of light fruit aromas such as apple and peach. Tel. +41 (0)79 456 19 34 a full-bodied, tightly-structured palate which Subtle sparkle on the palate, with a great sense builds to a crisp, fresh finale. of volume and delicious fruit flavours building www.domaineleshutins.ch to a supple finish. Classic Chardonnay. Tel. +41 (0)22 754 13 84
Domaine de la Planta Bernard Bosseau Esprit de Geneva 2013 Domaine des Faunes This classic Geneva blend boasts a splendid Frédéric & Ludovic Mistral Domaine de la Donzelle garnet-red robe and an expressive bouquet Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Bernard Vuagnat packed with fruity and floral aromas topped off Three years in the cellar have endowed this La Donzelle Noire 2012 with a dash of spice. Supple yet substantial on well-built red with a garnet-red robe embellished Made with Mondeuse, Garanoir and Gamaret, the palate, with fresh, ripe fruit. with flashes of ruby, not to mention an expres- this elegant blend boasts a ruby-red robe with www.domainedelaplanta.ch sive bouquet of prune and sweet spices. Gener- flashes of violet. Fresh and fruity in the nose ous and full-bodied on the palate, with smooth while remaining elegant and distinguished on tannins and a hint of spice to finish. the palate, with the emphasis on structure www.lesfaunes.ch over power. www.closdeladonzelle.ch
18 vinum Geneva Extra 2016 spotlight on the wine region RUSSIN (3) CHOULLY (5)
Cave Les Crêtets Sophie & Philippe Plan Domaine des Molards Sombre caractère 2014 Clos du Château Michel & Fabien Desbaillet This oak-aged blend of Gamaret, Garanoir and Lionel & Nathalie Dugerdil Réserve du Domaine 2014 Diolinoir has a deep, dense robe and a powerful Gamaret-Garanoir 2013 Finishing in third place in the Grand Prix du Vin bouquet dominated by dark fruit and spicy Deep colour and an expressive bouquet domi- Suisse 2014, and the only Geneva Chasselas which aromas. Supple yet full-bodied, with an opulent nated by black cherry, peppered with hints of might be described as ‘Parker-esque’, this rich, finale crowned with long-lasting notes of clove. Powerful and concentrated on the palate, full-bodied wine offers lashings of white fruit both blackberry and red berries. with robust tannins and an expansive finale. in the nose and on the palate. Superb balance www.lescretets.ch A noble blend which will improve with age. and poise, building to a delicious finale. www.closduchateau.ch www.molards.ch
Domaine Les Perrières Bernard Rochaix Domaine des Abeilles d’Or Didier et Nadia Penet Chardonnay de Peissy 2013 René & Laurent Desbaillets La Maisonnette 2013 A strong performer in tasting contests, this M2 2013 A Cabernet Franc with a typically dense ruby barrel-aged Chardonnay wows with its resplend- A Merlot-Malbec blend matured for thirty colour and a powerful, spicy nose. An attention- ent, gold-tinged robe, its bouquet of light fruit months – twenty in barrels, six in vats and four grabbing opening and opulent finish, with and vanilla aromas and its luxuriant texture on in bottles - this powerful red impresses with great volume and tightly-structured tannins. the palate, enlivened with spicy notes which the intensity of its bouquet, the maturity of its Tel. + 41 (0)22 754 17 21 are never overbearing. tannins and the power of its flavours. www.lesperrieres.ch www.abeillesdor.ch
Peissy (4)
Domaine Grand’Cour Domaine de la Clé de Sol Jean-Pierre Pellegrin Daniel Sulliger Pinot Noir P 2012 Harmonie 2014 Domaine des Charmes Produced only in the best vintages, this Gamay, Pinot Noir and Gamaret combine to Bernard, Anne & Olivier Conne richly-coloured Pinot Noir is remarkable for the produce a supple, tasty red with a ruby-garnet Paganum 2014 complexity of its bouquet, which pairs cherry robe and an enticing, fruity nose. Fruity and This pagan comes draped in the lightest of robes, and raspberry notes with subtle roasted aromas well-rounded on the palate, capped off with a which opens to reveal an expressive bouquet and a hint of violet. Its powerful opening and crisp, fresh finish. and crisp, well-balanced flavours. Aromas from long-lingering finish are the hallmarks of a wine www.cledesol.ch the barrel overshadow the fruit somewhat, but of serious pedigree, which will continue to a few more years in the cellar will allow this mag- grow and improve for decades. nificent special cuvée to reveal its full potential. Tel. +41 (0)22 753 15 00 Meyrin (7) www.domainedescharmes.ch
Domaine des Bossons Domaine des Trois Etoiles Eric & Laure Leyvraz Paul-Henri Soler Jean-Charles Crousaz Pinot Noir Le Vieux Clocher 2014 Vin du Dimanche 2014 Sauvignon 2014 Behind the intense ruby robe and delicate Made with no added sulphites, this ruby-red Crafted with precision, this elegant Sauvignon bouquet of red berries lies a tightly-structured Vin de Pays boasts an expressive bouquet of red boasts a splendid colour and an expressive bou- Pinot endowed with robust tannins, subtle berry aromas topped off with a delicate touch quet which deftly combines notes of asparagus, fruit aromas and an impressively long finish. of hawthorn flower. Fresh and forthright on the passionfruit and grapefruit. Crisp and fresh on A wine of character, crafted with precision. palate, with a complex array of flavours including the palate, with a long-lasting, fruity finish. www.domaine-des-bossons.com floral notes and a dash of spice. www.trois-etoiles.ch Tel. +41 (0)79 746 24 61
spotlight on the wine region Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 19 SATIGNY (8)
Château des Bois Les Vallières Le Bois des Chiens 2013 André & Louis Serex Les Gondettes Garnet-red robe with hints of ruby. Fresh red Deux Louis Réserve Comte Ayrbert 2012 Françoise Berguer fruit aromas topped with cardamom, clove and A Gamaret-Cabernet blend matured for Mondeuse 2012 a hint of peppermint. Bold opening and crunchy 18 months in oak barrels, achieving a certain Powerful and distinguished, this Mondeuse offers fruit on the palate, leading to a precise finale Mediterranean charm thanks to its deep violet an opaque robe and an expressive bouquet of enlivened with spicy notes. A winning blend of robe, exuberantly spicy nose and generous, dark berry aromas studded with a hint of clove. charm and elegance. supple flavours framed by soft tannins and Concentrated yet silky-smooth on the palate, www.chateaudesbois.ch climaxing in a delicious, spicy finale. with a well-controlled sense of vivacity. www.lesvallieres.ch www.lesgondettes.ch
Bourdigny (9)
Domaine de la Roselle Kathy & Jacques Meinen Domaine de la Comtesse Eldegarde Gamaret 2012 Nicolas Bonnet Shimmering, deep red robe and an exuberant Fièvre jaune 2008 bouquet of clove, nutmeg, white pepper and This fabulously rare Savagnin, matured under a dark fruit. Great volume and silky texture on the Domaine de Champvigny voile of yeast, boasts a golden robe and an ex- palate. A top-drawer Gamaret at the peak of Raymond Meister pressive bouquet embellished with subtle hints its powers. Kerner 2014 of walnut and sweet spices such as curry and www.domainesterroirs.com An explosive array of exotic fruit aromas – pineap- curcuma. Remarkably fresh and well-balanced ple, passionfruit, guava – in the nose and on the on the palate. palate, living up to the promise of the gold-flecked robe. A refreshing white perfect as an aperitif, or to bring out the best in a curry or sushi platter. www.champvigny.ch
Domaine du Nant d’Avril Famille Grolimund Domaine du Paradis Gamaret 2014 Roger Burgdorfer Light garnet robe and an expressive bouquet of Noir Divin 2014 wild berries accented with hints of sweet spice. This concentrated blend offers a dense, garnet- Supple attack and silky texture, with enticing Domaine des Alouettes red robe, an elegant bouquet of dark berries, aromas and an indulgent finish. An enchanting Jean-Daniel & Florian Ramu spices and roasted aromas, and a bold attack Gamaret. Rosé 2014 which paves the way for crisp, concentrated www.nant-davril.ch A gold medal winner at the Sélection des Vins flavours, fine-grained tannins and a slightly de Genève 2015, this Gamay rosé boasts an spicy finish. enticing, salmon-pink robe and a pure, expres- www.domaine-du-paradis.ch sive bouquet dominated by crushed strawberry aromas. Fresh and tasty on the palate, with a crisp finish in which the strawberry flavours are joined by hints of raspberry and redcurrant. Le Grand Clos www.domaine-des-alouettes.ch Jean-Michel Novelle Muscat 2014 Domaine de la Devinière Elegance and finesse incarnate, this is a Muscat Willy Cretegny of remarkable class and complexity. Sumptuous Gamay 2013 fresh grape aromas in the nose, accented with A gold medal winner at the Sélection des Vins playful citrus notes, and a palate which strikes de Genève, this is an indulgent, fruity organic just the right balance between aromatic power, Domaine des Vignolles red. The bouquet is teeming with strawberry, freshness, length and depth of flavour. Laurent Vulliez raspberry and cherry aromas, but also subtle Tel. +41 (0)22 753 12 30 Pot d’Vin 2014 hints of cardamom and clove which spill over A Mondeuse built to last, with an expressive onto the crunchy, indulgent palate. bouquet of wild flowers and honeysuckle notes. www.la-deviniere.ch Solid structure and a lively, fruity finish, framed by tannins which are still tightly-packed. www.vignolles.wix.com/vignolles
20 vinum Geneva Extra 2016 spotlight on the wine region Between the Arve and the Rhône
Avusy (15)
Domaine de Champlong André Lauper Peney (10) Muscat 2014 Flashes of gold in the glass, introducing an expressive bouquet of fresh grape aromas with that distinctive Muscat edge. The lively attack paves the way for the return of those fruity, aro- Château de Collex matic notes found in the nose. All the hallmarks Frédéric Probst of a classic, skilfully-crafted Muscat. Les Balisiers Le Chevalier Noir 2013 Tel. +41 (0)22 756 27 89 Christophe Pillon An expressive bouquet of black cherry, clove Lune rousse 2012 and roasted coffee beans. Crisp and fresh on the A Gamaret matured for fifteen months in tradi- palate, with fine-grained tannins and a finish as Avully (16) tional amphorae, this Vin de Pays is BioSuisse- elegant as it is long-lasting. A barrel-aged blend certified. It boasts a distinctive amaranth-red with a wonderful sense of balance. colour and an expressive bouquet of dark berry, www.domaineduchateau.ch violet and sweet spice aromas. Full-bodied, supple and indulgent on the palate, building to La Vigne à Bossy a spicy conclusion. Lalage & Jean-Albert Schmid-Cairns www.balisiers.ch Tel. +41 (0)22 774 12 30 Domaine de la Printanière Céline Dugerdil Céligny (14) Le Rassembleur 2013 Cardamom, clove, black pepper and star anise join forces with dark berry aromas to form an enchanting ensemble. Supple tannins and rich Domaine des Pendus flavours from this intelligent blend of Gamaret, Christian Sossauer Garanoir and Galotta. Le Passeur 2011 www.laprintaniere.ch This blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Gamaret has had four years to polish up its Le Clos de Céligny Domaine du Courtil charms, and the results are impressive: a rich, H. Schütz & R. Moser Ernest Scherz varied palette of aromas which include generous Rosé de Gamay 2014 Tel. +41 (0)22 756 28 74 helpings of spices and dark fruit, and supple A dazzling pink colour, an intense bouquet of tannins which linger long on the palate. crushed strawberry and raspberry aromas, a www.domaine-des-pendus.ch punchy, fruity attack and an impressive array of Soral (17) strawberry flavours - fresh, crushed, candied - combined to make this wine a gold medal winner Collex-Bossy (13) at the Grand Prix du Vin Suisse 2015. www.clos-de-celigny.ch
Domaine de la Mermière Yves Batardon Altesse Expression 2010 Domaine Girod Frères Les vins du Crieur Public et de la Sorcière Flashes of gold in the glass, and a bouquet of Sylvain Girod Pierre Mandry rare intensity, with vibrant notes of pear, melon Garanoir 2014 Non Filtré 2014 and fresh pineapple. Vinous and full-bodied This Garanoir offers a garnet-red robe with hints This delicious, slightly cloudy unfiltered Chas- on the palate, with exuberant fruit embellished of violet, a powerful bouquet of dark berry aro- selas boasts a delicate bouquet of citrus aromas by a generous dash of spice. Five years in the mas, a bold attack and tightly-structured tannins and white flower notes. Crisp and fresh on the cellar have worked wonders here. and a fruity, long-lasting finish. palate, with a fruity finish embellished with a wel- www.mermiere.ch Tel. +41 (0)22 774 16 97 come hint of bitterness.
hoto: Siffert / weinweltfoto.ch P hoto: www.provino.ch/mandry
spotlight on the wine region Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 21
Cave des Chevalières Stéphane Dupraz Les Vignes du Pêcher Sébastien & Eva Dupraz Merlot 2014 Patrick David Assemblage noble 2014 Powerful and well-built, this purple-robed Merlot Nuit d’espoir 2014 This crimson-coated blend needs a little time to harmoniously blends black cherry and sweet A fine garnet-red robe and a bouquet combining breathe before it is ready to unfurl its enchant- spice aromas. Superb volume on the palate, with ripe red fruit with a dash of sweet spice. A bold ing aromas of red berries and sweet spices. On prominent tannins leading the way to a warm, opening and solid tannic frame, with juicy fruit the palate, notes of clove, cinnamon, raspberry, full-bodied finale. flavours and an expressive, expansive finale. A redcurrant and cherry combine, backed by a www.sydupraz.ch full-bodied blend which will get better with age. crisp, elegant structure. www.laconnex-beach.ch/pecher www.cave-des-chevalieres.ch Athenaz (18)
Domaine des Trois-Lacs Domaine du Château de Rougemont Laurent Thévenoz Paul & Annie Dupraz Divico 2014 Garanoir Le Merle Noir 2014 Domaine des Graves This new, more resilient grape variety offers The amaranth-red robe, the expressive bouquet Kristèle & Nicolas Cadoux a deep, dark robe and an intense bouquet of of blackcurrant and blackberry, the bold open- Syrah 2011 super-ripe dark fruit aromas. Structured ing, the full-bodied texture, the rich fruit flavours A few years in the cellar have rounded off the yet silky-smooth on the palate, building to a chiming perfectly with the bouquet and the rough edges of this classy wine. The purple robe warm finale. neatly-balanced finale all combine to make this is so deep as to be almost opaque. The expressive Tel. +41 (0)22 756 20 34 classic Garanoir a winner. bouquet marries violet aromas with lashings of Tel. +41 (0)22 756 42 65 dark berries and a hint of spice. Silky-smooth and juicy on the palate, with well-rounded tannins. Lully (20) www.domainedesgraves.ch
Laconnex (19)
Domaine du Faubourg Jean-Claude & Christophe Egger Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Domaine des Bonnettes This barrel-aged, intensely-coloured Cabernet Dominique Maigre boasts an expressive bouquet of ripe dark Sauvignon Blanc 2014 fruit overlaid with notes of clove and nutmeg. This crisp white is blessed with an elegant nose Concentrated flavours and mature tannins make Domaine Jean Batardon which blends exotic fruit aromas with an intrigu- this well-balanced, generously-proportioned Pinot Noir 2014 ing hint of pine bud. Fresh and lively on the red worthy of the finest culinary creations. Given a little time to breathe, this ruby-red Pinot palate, all the way from the bold opening to the www.dufaubourg.ch reveals a charming array of red berry aromas. delicious, fruity finish. On the palate, tightly-structured tannins add www.bonnettes.ch weight to those same red berry aromas, building to a rich, generous finale. Tel. +41 (0)22 756 31 23
Domaine des Lolliets Raphaël Dunand Domaine des Curiades Léon 2013 Jacques & Christophe Dupraz A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Gamay, Curiades Rouge 2014 aged for two years in oak barrels, Léon boasts Château de Laconnex A blend of Gamay, Pinot Noir and Gamaret a resplendent garnet-red robe, an expressive Famille Dethurens which has earned plaudits for the intensity of its bouquet of chocolate, spice and roasted notes, Merlot 2012 aromas – dominated by dark berries and spices – and powerful flavours framed by robust This 2012 charmed us with its expressive bou- as well as its delicious, silky palate. tannins. quet of ripe dark berries, its fruity opening, its www.curiades.ch www.lolliets.ch well-rounded generosity of flavour, its elegant tannins and its long, spicy finale. www.chateaudelaconnex.ch
22 vinum Geneva Extra 2016 spotlight on the wine region AIRE-LA-VILLE (24)
Mermoud Vignerons Les Grands Buissons Muscat 2014 Patrick & Marc Favre Expressing the finest characteristics of this noble Gamaret 2014 L’Aérien grape, this dazzling, aromatic Muscat impresses A deep robe and expressive bouquet of pepper, Jonathan Christin as much by its length of flavour as its natural clove, black cherry, cardamom and plum aro- Chasselas 2014 exuberance. Lively and complex, a vintage which mas. Bold opening, generous structure, subtle A shimmering, crystal-clear, pale-yellow robe will continue to improve for a few years yet. spices and silky-smooth tannins. A Gamaret of and an expressive bouquet dominated by www.mermoud-vignerons.ch distinction. fresh grape and pear aromas. Gently sparkling www.grands-buissons.ch attack, heralding the return of those pear aromas and building towards a crisp, slightly chalky finish. A feisty Chasselas. Bernex (22) Tel. + 41 (0)79 561 21 67
Cave des Oulaines Plan-les-Ouates (25) Nadine & Daniel Tremblet Merlot 2012 Prune, cherry and blackberry aromas abound in the bouquet and on the palate, while supple tannins and a generous finale add to the Domaine de Beauvent charm of this neatly-structured Merlot. Bernard Cruz www.cave-des-oulaines.ch Mondeuse 2014 A deep, crystalline garnet-red robe and an Distillerie et Cave du Saconnex d’Arve expressive nose with a top layer of sweet spices Daniel Brenner underpinned by super-ripe berry aromas. Pinot Noir 2013 A bold opening and a lively finale, with crisp, taut The delicate red robe sets the tone, rivalling the flavours. A wine of character which will improve elegance of the red fruit aromas. Rich, ripe with age notes of strawberry and redcurrant dominate a Vignoble de l’Etat www.cave-de-beauvent.ch palate which favours finesse over concentration. Thierry Anet www.brennervins.ch Gewürztraminer passerillé 2013 A gold medal winner at the Sélection des Vins de Genève 2015, this gold-clad sweet white Landecy (26) fills the air and charms the taste buds with its intense aromas of apricot, honey and quince jelly, underpinned by an opulent sweetness. Cave au Petit-Gris Domaine du Grangier www.ge.ch/vignoble Denis Vionnet Luc & Olivier Barthassat Syrah 2012 Tel. +41 (0)22 743 19 66 This garnet-red Syrah needs a little time to Sézenove (21) breathe, in order to reveal its enticing cherry aromas, joined on the palate by hints of clove, Carouge (27) white pepper and nutmeg. The complex finale deserves a special mention. Tel. + 41 (0)22 757 10 18
Cave de Sézenove Claude & Jacques Bocquet-Thonney Claude Berthaudin Merlot 2014 Le Crêt Barrique 2014 Still a little timid, this powerful Merlot (which Christian Guyot This blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Gama- boasts a truly inspired label) has an impressive Trois Helvètes 2013 ret arrives draped in a deep, garnet-red robe. concentration of flavours and tannins. Given a Garanoir and Galotta combine to create this The enchanting, expressive bouquet combines little time, the plum, cherry, spices and liquorice deep, opaque red. Raspberry, cherry, blackcur- black cherry and blackberry notes with spices aromas will reveal their full potential. rant and eucalyptus flood the nose and the including white pepper, nutmeg and clove. Great www.cavedesezenove.ch palate. Delicious, delicate, well-balanced. volume on the palate, with an equally great www.vins-guyot.ch sense of balance, depth and length of flavour. www.berthaudin.ch
spotlight on the wine region Geneva Extra 2016 vinum 23 TROINEX (28)
Les Coudrays Château du Crest Pierre Baudet Château Blanc 2014 La Pierre-aux-Dames Flirt This delicately-coloured Chardonnay-Pinot Gris Patricia & Michel Bidaux A delicious blended white with a shimmer- blend reveals a bouquet of fresh white fruit. La Bosse à Rousseau 2012 ing robe and a bouquet which artfully blends On the palate, a lively opening and an expressive A blend of Gamaret and Garanoir matured in notes of apple, fresh grapes and white peach. finish frame the generous fruit flavours. oak barrels, this cuvée is endowed with a garnet- Crisp and precise on the palate, finishing with a www.domaineducrest.ch red robe, a bouquet dominated by sweet resounding note of fresh apple. spices and nicely-rounded tannins which pave www.lescoudrays.ch Domaine Château L’Evêque the way for a generous, fruity finale. Martine & Alexandre Saucy Mévaux www.maisonforte.ch www.chateauleveque.ch
Veyrier (29) Meinier (34)
Famille Jean Rivollet Domaine du Petit-Veyrier Hymne au Cœur 2014 Domaine de la Tour Claude & Claudine Rosset A rare speciality cuvée, this Mondeuse Blanche Cédric Béné Tel. +41 (0)22 784 12 54 boasts a light, shimmering robe and a bouquet Tel. +41 (0)22 750 02 28 of honeysuckle accented with subtle smoky notes. Excellent structure on the palate, with a Between the Arve and the Lake long-lasting finale. Tel. +41 (0)22 750 17 66 Cologny (30)
Presinge (32) Domaine d’En Bruaz Grégory Favre Carminoir 2014 Domaine de l’Abbaye The amaranth-red robe is so deep that it’s almost Famille Läser opaque. This blend of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Tel. +41 (0)22 759 17 52 Sauvignon offers a suitably generous, powerful Domaine de la Vigne Blanche bouquet. Indulgent yet supple on the palate, Roger & Sarah Meylan building to a crisp, spicy finish. Cuvée Albertine 2014 Jussy (33) www.domainedenbruaz.ch A deep, garnet-red robe and an expressive bouquet of blackberry and black cherry aromas capture the essence of this powerful Garanoir. Gy (35) On the palate, spicy notes blend seamlessly with dark berry flavours. The tannins are still tightly- wound, and the finale is rich and profound. Cave de la Chena www.lavigneblanche.ch Daniel Fonjallaz Cave La Gara www.cavedelachena.ch Olivier Pradervand Choulex (31) La Gara 2014 Clos de la Zone A garnet-red robe and a generous bouquet Robin & Valentin Vidonne of dark berries and aromatic herbs. Opulent www.closdelazone.ch flavours underpinned by supple tannins, building to a fresh finale which encapsulates the unique charms of this sun-kissed blend. Tel. +41 (0)79 281 44 00
Domaine de Miolan Bertrand Favre Domaine du Chambet Etoile de Miolan 2013 Marion & Gérald Fonjallaz A traditionally-crafted sparkling white with Sauvignon 2014 BioSuisse certification. A sparkling robe and an A pale robe and an expressive bouquet of expressive bouquet of grape, rose and sweet passionfruit and lychee. Lively opening, suave curry aromas. Opulent flavours, framed neatly by texture, delicate sweetness and a fruity finish: the wonderfully elegant fizz. a perfectly-judged Sauvignon. www.domainedemiolan.ch www.chambet.ch
24 vinum Geneva Extra 2016 spotlight on the wine region Corsier (36)
Domaine Villard & Fils Philippe Villard Domaine des Groubeaux Savagnin Blanc 2014 Yves Kohli A classic Geneva wine which impresses with Assemblage Rouge 2014 the finesse of its aromatic palette (pear, fresh Bearing the Bourgeon Bio label, this tasty red pineapple, mirabelle plums and citrus fruit) as boasts a lively red robe and a bouquet which, well as the power and structure of its remarkably with a little time to breathe, reveals dark berries, well-balanced palate. nutmeg, thyme and mocha. Supple texture and Tel. + 41 (0)22 751 25 56 a lingering finale. Tel. +41 (0)79 474 29 92 Chevrens (39)
Anières (38) Domaine des Champs-Lingot Claude-Alain & Tina Chollet www.champs-lingot.ch
Hermance (40)
Domaine de la Côte d’Or Gavillet et Fils Sauvignon Blanc 2014 This classic Sauvignon has an expressive bou- quet with notes of blackcurrant bud, grapefruit and lychee. The attack is lively, the texture smooth and the finish precise. Domaine du Manoir www.lacotedor.ch Fabienne Naef Kerner 2014 An aromatic white with a shimmering robe and an expressive bouquet which harmoniously combines exotic fruits with hints of blackcurrant bud. Supple texture, building to an exuberant finish. Domaine des Ménades Tel. + 41 (0)22 751 10 09 Alain Jacquier Pinot Noir 2012 We were impressed by the fine ruby-red robe, the fruity bouquet with its smoky accents and the crunchy texture, remarkable for the elegance of its tannins. A precisely-crafted wine which wraps up on a subtly spicy note. Domaine des Dix Vins www.domainedesmenades.ch Raphaël Piuz Divino A very light robe, but a highly expressive bouquet of raspberry, strawberry preserve and redcurrant jam indicative of fruit harvested at peak maturity. Superb poise and balance, with silky tannins and indulgent aromas. Domaine Les Parcelles Tel. + 41 (0)22 751 18 35 Laurent Villard Convergence 2014 A blend of five white grape varieties which proves to be remarkably fresh and enjoyable. Boasts an expressive bouquet of white fruit overlaid with floral notes and a hint of smokiness. Lively on the palate, with pear and white peach aromas dominating the fruity finale.
hoto: Siffert / weinweltfoto.ch P hoto: Tel. +41 (0)22 751 01 20
spotlight on the wine region Cave de Geneve, Satigny Winegrowers affiliated Collex-Bossy (13) www.cavedegeneve.ch to the Cave de Genève Claude Mercier The winegrowers listed below Tel. +41 (0)22 774 15 06 entrust their grapes to the Cave Jacques Mermillod Tel. +41 (0)22 774 34 12 de Genève, then take charge of selling the wines produced by the Soral (17) cooperative. Baccarat Blanc de Blancs Samuel Battiaz The Cave de Genève’s emblematic Chardonnay Tel. +41 (0)22 756 14 15 is blessed with a shimmering robe and a bou- Dardagny (2) Georges Thévenoz quet which combines fruity and floral aromas Tel. +41 (0)22 756 12 00 with aplomb. Fresh opening, fine bubbles Philippe & Christine Bersier Ramu Nadège & Henri-Pierre Dupraz and a creamy texture which lingers long on Tel. +41 (0)22 754 13 95 Tel. +41 (0)22 756 26 02 the palate. Claire Bellevaux Tel. +41 (0)22 754 15 33 Laconnex (19)
Russin (3) Samuel Läng Tel. +41 (0)22 756 18 37 Denis Girardet Tel. +41 (0)22 754 10 39 Bernex (22) Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Fernand Pittet A light, crystalline robe and a highly expressive Tel. +41 (0)22 754 12 37 André Tremblet bouquet of blackcurrant bud, lychee and Eric Porchet Tel. +41 (0)22 757 39 13 grapefruit aromas. Lively opening and a crisp Tel. +41 (0)22 754 13 39 Patrick & Géraldine Duvernay texture, with citrus and exotic fruit flavours [email protected] dovetailing in a neat finish. A classic, finely- Vernier (6) crafted Sauvignon. Cartigny (23) Marc Zeller Tel. +41 (0)22 341 04 90 Raymond & Léonie Cocquio Tel. +41 (0)22 756 19 14 Meyrin (7) Aire-La-Ville (24) Patrick Abbé Clémence 2014 Tel. +41 (0)22 341 14 64 Christophe Bosson An oak-aged Chardonnay which charms Francis Grunder Tel. +41 (0)22 757 61 09 you outright with its golden robe and expres- Tel. +41 (0)22 782 57 07 sive bouquet combining vanilla and fresh Presinge (32) wood notes with hints of summer fruits and Satigny (8) citrus aromas. Generous body, matured Jean-Marie Chappuis with precision. Jacques & Daniel Dugerdil Tel. +41 (0)22 759 11 39 Tel. +41 (0)22 753 40 40 Marc Penet Jussy (33) Tel. +41 (0)22 753 17 83 Guy Revaclier Patrick Wegmüller Tel. +41 (0)22 753 11 05 [email protected]
Gamaret Syrah 2014 Bourdigny (9) Meinier (34) The violet robe sets the tone for this delicious, indulgent Syrah. An expressive bouquet of white Anne Revaclier Maurice Favre pepper, clove, black cherry, plum and raspberry. Tel. +41 (0)22 753 12 48 Tel. +41 (0)22 759 18 56 Supple and well-balanced on the palate. Michel Roset Tel. +41 (0)22 753 14 52 Collonge-Bellerive (37) Bernard Vulliez Tel. +41 (0)22 753 10 85 Christine Pilet-Falquet Tel. +41 (0)22 752 12 01 Genthod (12)
Cœur de Clémence 2014 Yvonne Humbert A Gamaret matured in oak barrels, the deep, Tel. +41 (0)22 774 16 38 almost opaque garnet-red robe is in keep- ing with the intensity of the roasted aromas. Equally powerful on the palate, with mature tannins and a long, luxuriant finale. An opulent red which will only get better with age.
26 vinum Geneva Extra 2016 spotlight on the wine region
WIN THE FULL
2014 COLLECTION (19 BOTTLES)! Esprit de Genève competition OPAGE and VINUM are offering readers the its structure and fine-grained tannins and personal contact details along with the name chance to win one of three cases containing Garanoir (minimum 20%) for its elegance of a winemaking village included in the Esprit the entire Esprit de Genève 2014 collection. and finesse. Other varieties (maximum 20%) de Genève collection to: Launched in 2004 with the ambition of creat- are added to create a signature wine unique [email protected]. ing a wine which would serve as an ambas- to each winemaker. Adhering to a strict set of The lucky winners will be picked at random sador for the whole Geneva region, the Esprit technical specifications, the wines undergo from the correct answers. For everybody de Genève is a blend of different red grape rigourous taste testing and are released to the else, the full collection is available for 418 varieties. Gamay (minimum 50%) for its fruit market after a minimum of 13 months in oak Swiss Francs at: and freshness, Gamaret (minimum 20%) for barrels. To take part in our contest, send your www.lesvinsdegeneve.ch
Events diary Bring your family and friends down to the banks of Lake Geneva to discover the Geneva 2016 region’s extraordinary array of wines!
28 May 17 – 18 November Open Day ‘Barkavin’ aboard the Henry Dunant Geneva’s wine estates open their gates to the public. An event hosted by Chevrens winemaker Claude-Alain Chollet, A great opportunity to discover the region and its winemakers. with almost 20 estates taking part. www.barkavin.ch www.geneveterroir.ch 26 November 4 – 14 August Independent winegrowers and winemakers Geneva Lake Festival The region’s independent winegrowers and winemakers open A great festive occasion with numerous events, all in the sumptuous their doors to the public, introducing the new-born 2016 vintage setting of Geneva Harbour. and its elder sibling the 2015, still ageing in the barrels.
20 August Gourmet Rally INFORMATION A gastronomic journey through the Geneva wine region, with five gourmet pit-stops along the way. Office de Promotion Genève des Produits Agricoles Tourisme & Congrès 17 & 18 September de Genève (OPAGE) Rue du Mont-Blanc 18 Maison du Terroir CH-1201 Genève 54th Harvest Festival Route de Soral 93 Tél. +41 (0)22 909 70 00 Every September the winemakers of Geneva celebrate the year’s CH-1233 Bernex Fax +41 (0)22 909 70 11 Tél. +41 (0)22 388 71 55 www.geneve.com harvest at Russin, in the heart of Mandement. Fax +41 (0)22 388 71 58 www.geneveterroir.ch 5 November [email protected] Fête de la Saint-Martin Tastings in all of the wineries in Peissy, food and drink, entertainment, Genève Terroir app auctions and a fireworks display.www.peissy912.ch
www.facebook.com/GeneveTerroir Agenda Chasselas, Sauvignon, Chardonnay ...
A delightful mix of grape varieties and a singular quality for very special moments.
lesvinsdegeneve.ch
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