VINUM EXTRA SPECIAL PUBLICATION MAY 2016 WWW.Vinum.INFO EXTRA GENEVA, WHAT A CATCH! Fish-wine pairings Top tips and tastemakers in the region Open Day and the Gourmet Rally 04 12 08 10 06 Selected highlights from this special issue: our interview with Chandra Kurt, ambassador of the 2015 vintage (page 4); tasting the winners of the Sélection des Vins de Genève contest (page 6); Open Day 2016 (page 8); the Gourmet Rally 2016 (page 10) and our special report on match- ing Geneva wines with fish (page 12 onwards). Read the “Geneva 2016” VINUM Special on your tablet: download the app for free now. Further information: www.vinum.info/ appangebote Contents 04 2015 vintage Editorial Interview with Chandra Kurt, Ambassador for this vintage What a catch! 06 Sélection des Vins de Genève The Sanglier, the Marcassin and the other prize-winners from e often find ourselves marvelling at the dynamism of this constantly- the 2015 awards evolving wine region, and singing the praises of its inimitable local pro- duce, so much so that we occasionally forget just how central the iconic W 08 Open Day lake is to the identity of Romandy’s biggest city. Lake Geneva is the soul of the region, a natural treasure celebrated in all its glory in this special issue. Lake Geneva, or Lac Behind the scenes at a small estate Léman to the French-speaking community, is home to around thirty species of fish and a big winery and shellfish. Unfortunately, perch remains an all too familiar sight on Swiss menus (95% of the fillets consumed in Switzerland are actually imported from Eastern 10 Gourmet Rally 2016 Europe or Africa). Nonetheless, talented chefs throughout the region are also work- Georgette Gribi and Philippe Bocquet: ing with tastier local varieties such as vendace, Arctic char, pike, crayfish, freshwater two passionate winemakers ohner Zürich, Martin Hemmi ohner Zürich, R trout and burbot. Served en tartare, à la meunière or pan-seared, these local fish can easily hold their own against the more famous species imported from the Atlantic 12 Geneva wines and fish and the Mediterranean, which you’ll find in all of the Canton’s finest eateries. Pairing wines with the bounty of The chefs and sommeliers we spoke to were unanimous: the diversity of Geneva’s the lake (and the oceans) wines allows for subtle, intelligent combinations with all sorts of seafood. While Chasselas, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay make for timeless fish-wine pairings, 16 Spotlight on the Geneva with the help of a few Pinot Gris, Savagnin Blanc, Gamaret and barrel-aged reds wine region our experts have conjured up some truly miraculous matches. 18 Right Bank 21 Between theArve and Rthehône Alexandre Truffer 24 Between theArve and the Lake Deputy Editor 26 The Winemakers of the Cave de égis Colombo, Siffert / weinweltfoto.ch, Philipp Siffert / weinweltfoto.ch, égis Colombo, R Director of the French edition of VINUM Genève Photos: Photos: 27 Event Diary EDITOR / PUBLISHER ADVERTISING All copyright and publishing rights to this publication, Intervinum AG, Thurgauerstrasse 66, CH-8050 Zurich AVD Goldach AG, Sulzstrasse 10–12, 9403 Goldach or parts thereof, are reserved. Any use or exploitation, Tél. +41 (0)44 268 52 40, Fax +41 (0)44 268 52 65 Tél. +41 (0)71 844 91 53, Fax. +41 (0)71 844 93 45 particularly reprinting, copying, microfilming, storage [email protected], www.vinum.ch [email protected] and/or use on optical and electronic media, requires Nicola Montemarano, publishing manager the written permission of the publisher. The content DESIGN AND PRODUCTION of this publication has been checked carefully. EDITORSHIP Graphic design and layout: Philippe Rérat However, the authors, editors and publishers accept VINUM Extra “Geneva” is a special supplement of VINUM, Rédaction, Postfach 59 61, CH-8050 Zurich Cover picture: Philippe Rérat, no responsibility for its accuracy. VINUM, Europe’s Wine Magazine. ISSN 1663-2567, Tél. +41 (0)44 268 52 60, Fax +41 (0)44 268 52 65 iStock / Curaga, EHStock published May 2016. [email protected] Photos: Michaël Legentil / Bureau photographique This supplement is the result of collaboration between Thomas Vaterlaus, Chief Editor VINUM and the ’Office de Promotion des Produits Production/sales management: Alexandre Truffer, Deputy Editor Agricoles de Genève (OPAGE) in Bernex (GE). Agentur Graf, CH-9001 St. Gallen for Romandy, head of texts [email protected] ISSUER Rolf Frank (head of production) Roland Köhler GENEVa EXTRa 2016 VINUM 03 Chandra Kurt Born in 1968 in Colombo, Sri Lanka, Chandra Kurt is a prolific author and journalist specialising in wine. Along with her contributions to classic works such as Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book and The Oxford Companion to Wine by Jancis Robinson, since 1998 she has published the annual Wein- seller guide to supermarket wines, now also available in French. An in-demand consultant for Swiss wines, she also curates the Chandra Kurt Collection with selections from leading Swiss produc- ers Provins, Bolle and Tamborini Vini. www.chandrakurt.com Chandra Kurt interview Ambassador of the 2015 vintage Every year in the springtime, the winemakers of Geneva officially ring in the new vintage, turning the spotlight on the latest wines freshly released to the market. The enduring popularity of this tradition owes much to the succession of prestigious Am- bassadors selected to represent each vintage. Zep, Carole Bouquet, José Vouillamoz, Michel Pont, Paolo Basso and Brigitte Rosset are just a few of the famous faces who have lent their support to successive generations of Geneva’s finest. The 2016 ceremo- ny will be held on 11th May at Château de Penthes, but at time of printing the name of this year’s godfather remains shrouded in mystery. However, we do know for sure that the godmother of the new vintage is none other than wine journalist Chandra Kurt, who was more than happy to share with us her passion for the wines of Geneva. 04 vinum GENEVa EXTRa 2016 CHRISTENING the new VINTAGE A few of the famous faces who have served as am- bassadors for previous vintages: chef Marie-Josèphe Raboud and football coach Michel Pont (top left); cartoonist Zep (bottom left); World’s Best Som- melier Paolo Basso and actress Carole Bouquet (top right); actress Brigitte Rosset and ampelographer José Vouillamoz (bottom right). What do the wines of Geneva What advice would you give Will the 2015 vintage really mean to you? to a visitor coming to discover the be as excellent as everybody is Geneva is representative of the great di- Geneva wine region? predicting? versity of Swiss wines, which is nowhere The ideal way to discover the region is to 2015 will be exceptional, because it was more evident than in this Canton. Over come for the Open Days. Otherwise, I’d a perfect year in every respect, meaning half of the region’s vineyards are planted recommend hiring a small car or a bike that even the most modest wines will be with red varieties: Pinot Noir, Gamay, and going to visit a few winemakers di- well above average. If you’re interested in ezo.ch Gamaret, Garanoir, Cabernet Franc, Cab- rectly. That’s the best way to really get to building a collection of Genevan wines, R ernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. And grips with a region, with its philosophy 2015 is an excellent place to start. Of yet the whites – Chardonnay, Sauvignon and with the style of its wines. The more course nothing in this world is perfect, Blanc and Aligoté – also produce excel- you know about a wine, the more you’ll and a lot of what makes a wine unique ohner Zürich, ohner Zürich, R lent results. And the proximity to France, enjoy drinking it. It’s also important to comes from the work done by the win- the world’s most important winemaker, visit local restaurants, because chefs and emaker to adapt to nature’s whims. In has undoubtedly had a positive influ- sommeliers will often be able to give you any case, it looks as though 2015 is shap- ence on the development of winemaking excellent tips on which winemakers to ing up to be one of the best vintages since Photos: Philippe Photos: in Geneva. visit locally. the turn of the millennium. CHRISTENING the new VINTAGE GENEVa EXTRa 2016 VINUM 05 Contest The winners of the Sélection des Vins de Genève 2015 The panel of judges at the 16th annual Sélection des Vins de Genève competition tasted a total of 654 wines. 61 were awarded gold medals, with just 6 walking away with special prizes. We asked Vincent Debergé and Geoffrey Bentrari, sommeliers at Hôtel Beau Rivage and Hôtel Président Wilson respectively, for their tasting notes on these prize-winning wines. Vincent Debergé, Sommelier at Hôtel Beau Rivage Cave Les Crêtets Pinot Noir 2014 | Prize: Le Sanglier Cabernet Franc Les Temps Modernes 2013 | Prize: Le Renard This elegant red, which Vincent Debergé recommends pair- “A deep, ruby-red robe with hints of crimson. A charming, ex- ing with light poultry dishes or coastal fish, won the San- pressive bouquet of red fruit aromas – raspberry, redcurrant – glier de Bronze (Bronze Boar) award, a statue by Robert and a touch of rose petal. Structured and fresh on the palate, Hainard awarded to the highest-scoring wine in the Sélec- with fine-grained tannins, medium volume and a blend of ripe tion des Vins de Genève, all categories included. The head vine fruits, strawberry and mint.” Those are the tasting notes sommelier from the Beau Rivage was impressed with the jotted down by Vincent Debergé, who recommends pairing intense, ruby-red robe and the somewhat timid bouquet this wine with a slow-cooked osso bucco or veal shanks with which – after a few seconds’ swirling or a brief spell in a ca- citrus fruit and cashews – a recipe voted Dish of the Year by rafe – opens up to reveal delicate aromas including black- Geneva’s Café and Restaurant Guild.