SEA CANOEIST NEWSLETTER No

ISSN 1177-4177 THE SEA CANOEIST NEWSLETTER No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008

The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (NZ) Inc - KASK

The Sea Canoeist Newsletter INDEX EDITORIAL South Island Circumnavigators EDITORIAL p. 3 Newsletter Freya Hoffmeister fi nished the fi rst Thanks to Barbara Leslie, Sarah solo circuit by a woman on 2 Janu- KASK Wilson and Kerry-Jayne Wilson for ary 2008. Freya’s two diary days, President’s report your positive feedback on the KASK her equipment list and a profi le give by Susan Cade p. 4 newsletter. Kerry has requested more some insight into the planning, drive AGM & Photo Comp. p. 5 colour photos of East Greenland – not and determination that allowed Freya Club & Network Contacts p.22 a problem. to complete this trip solo and unsupported. OPINION Almost 12 months ago, Wellington Sea Kayaking comes in from the Cold paddler David Blake put a lean on Swedish paddler Babs Lindman set (EPIRBS) me to trial the printing company he off solo from Picton before Xmas and by David Winkworth p. 6 worked for at Petone. Massey Prin- rounded Puysegur Point on 5 February. tery had been printing the newsletters Justine and Barry Shaw left Sumner on Crossing the Ditch for over a decade, but from the time 26 January, and have reached Dunedin by Paul Caffyn p.20 I mailed off a CD and hardcopy to by 6 February. The respective blog NEW ZEALAND TRIP REPORTS Palmerston North, and the folded sites for Babs, Justine and Barry: A Monumental Paddle newsletters were couriered back to by Jacqui Anderson p.8 me for stamping and mailing, it was www.barbrolindman.blogspot.com taking up to three weeks. South Island Circumnavigation www.cackletv.com/blog Profi le of Freya Hoffmeister There was a very steep but necessary by Paul Caffyn p.10 learning curve for me to change from Does anyone have thoughts on why Freya’s Expedition Kit List p.12 the outdated Pagemaker layout soft- the South Island has become such a ware to the current universal standard popular destination this summer for Freya’s Diary Days of Indesign. David was patient with overseas expedition paddlers? Just a Normal Day on the West Coast my numerous queries, and newsletter by Freya Hoffmeister p.16 No.127 with colour cover and satin I lay the blame on Justine Curgenven The Final Leg - I’m Done fi nish paper certainly lifted the qual- with the inclusion of two segments on by Freya Hoffmeister p.16 ity. The costs of printing the cover in New Zealand paddlers in her This is colour, meant the inside covers and the Sea 3 DVD. Freya’s Arrival at Okiwi Bay rear cover could also be colour for by Martin Fraser p.18 no difference in cost. Number 129 A veritable procession of visiting over- with Max Grant’s beautiful Fiordland seas paddlers has been passed through HUMOUR p.21 photos then set the standard for future the 12 Mile this summer, seeking newsletters. advice on the South Island coastline. NEXT NEWSLETTER My former reclusive lifestyle seems DEADLINE The advent of broadband on the Coast to be a thing of the past. Road now allows transmission of the 18 March 2008 newsletter to Format in fi ve separate KASK Handbook PDF fi le attachments via email. The The fi rst print run 750 is almost gone. Coming up in Newsletter No.133 old days of applying labels and stamps A second print run of 750 is being The Solomons at the 12 Mile are over, as Format also printed in mid-February. Spelling and Mackenzie Rver undertakes the newsletter labelling grammar errrors spotted by Sandy Okains Bay weekend and posting in ziplock bags. KASK Ferguson and Waveney Inch have been Whangarei to Bay of Islands Administrator Linda Ingram emails corrected, along with a little tweeking Format an Excel spreadsheet fi le with of diagrams and photographs. As with PHOTOS: the addresses, and the turn-around time the newsletter I had to change all the Cover: Freya Hoffmeister paddling from when I now send the newsletter handbook fi les to the new software, into the fi nish of her trip at Okiwi Bay. to the Format can be as little as four reformat pages and relink all the im- Photo: John Kirk-Anderson days. My thanks to Mark Allen and ages. Sounds easy but it took nigh on especially David Blake at Format for three weeks to complete. Top: Freya arriving at Blaketown La- their patience and help with this new goon, Greymouth, on her paddle up the system. KASK is funding the reprint - the fi rst West Coast of the South Island. run of the fourth editions was helped Photo: Murry Cave When taking photos of trips, please with a $6,000 grant from Water Safety keep in mind a portrait format picture New Zealand. My thanks to Waveney Bottom: On Okiwi Bay, as Freya for the newsletter cover and high and Sandy, also Kay Costley for proof paddled in, fox terrier Shandy was resolution, landscape format pics for reading. maintaining a proper lookout for his the inside covers and rear. family. Photo: Paul Caffyn Paul Caffyn

3 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008 KASK Susan Cade arriving at Ratimera Bay for the Annual Sounds Pilgrimage PRESIDENT’S REPORT by Susan Cade What a busy, exciting time for sea kayaking. The Australian team of James Castrission and Justin Jones made a successful Trans-Tasman paddle - what an amazing feat. Freya Hoffmeister (from Germany) was the ﬁ rst woman to paddle around the South Island. Babs Lindman (Sweden) is currently underway on the same challenge ahead of another pair Justine Curgenven and Barry Shaw (from the UK) - may they all be successful.

In March we have Coastbusters in Auckland (February 29th - March 2nd) followed by the 1st NZ International Kayak Festival during the following week and then the NZ Kayak Builders’ forum in Rotorua (March 7th – 9th). The KASK forum and AGM at Ohope is from noon Friday 25th to Sunday 27th April and is receiving a lot of interest. I will be stepping down with sadness after four years as KASK president as my work commitments make it too difﬁ cult to put in the time that the role deserves.

On the local scene I have had a Neth- erlands sea kayaker Albert-jan Zijlstra visiting who gave some surf, stroke and rolling training to WSKN club of data is a formidable challenge, as WSNZ also has a target to develop members. He also gave a presenta- there is currently no data from many a research fund over the next fi ve tion on paddling from Cuxhaven to countries (including developed ones) years to provide ongoing research Lauwersoog in the Waddensea, which and concludes that there needs to be that compliments what is already he described as a typical Dutch trip. more understanding of the signifi cance being done. One of the key areas is He was very surprised to hear that of the problem. The recommendation to expand Drown Base to include some experienced New Zealand sea is that all member countries provide behaviour, knowledge, perception, kayakers paddle solo - his Dutch club drowning data including non-fatal attitude and other conditions associ- requires members to paddle in groups incidents. ated with drowning. of at least three people. Since 2004 WSNZ has been commit- I agree with the need for compre- I attended the Water Safety New ted to the development of its drowning hensive reporting of incidents in sea Zealand (WSNZ) funding meeting in records known as ‘Drown Base’. It has kayaking that result in loss of life or December 2007. A major project in identifi ed a need to research increased injury and also near misses. From which WSNZ is involved is gathering understanding of behavior associated this, the distribution of knowledge data on drownings. WSNZ attended with drownings. Some of the current and skill development will improve The World Congress on drowning goals are the inclusion of injury data sea kayaking safety. where it was indicated that there is and an annual aquatic risk profi le a great need to obtain more accurate report. Drown Base is admired as one WSNZ’s Education Strategy goals records. The World Health Organiza- of the world’s foremost drowning data include the need for a national frame- tion has also noted the need to identify bases. Sadly NZ has the 3rd highest work to co-ordinate, monitor and pro- vulnerable groups and address their rate of the countries that do provide vide consistency. It will also provide needs. The 2007 World Drowning data on drownings ongoing evaluation for all drowning Report identifi es that the collection prevention strategies and review

4 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter current water safety programmes, mention in particular the great work resources and drowning statistics. that Paul Caffyn has been doing by KASK AGM & re-formatting and organising a new Graham Eggar WSNZ asked KASK to be involved print run of the KASK handbook in this project, to provide resources, and his sterling work in producing Paddle Trophy initiatives and a contact person, to the regular KASK newsletter. Also participate and complete surveys and Evan Pugh has been busy organizing Awards provide consultation. We may also the KASK Forum at Ohope. I gather be involved in focus groups. Evan already has lots of prizes and FIRST CALL FOR volunteers to share skills and knowl- NOMINATIONS/ In funding applications WSNZ will edge. And I must thank Linda Ingram MOTIONS be looking for projects that have a our administrator who continues to good research foundation, sound keep our books in good order and AGM Motions logic and which are transparent. They maintain our membership database. Saturday 26 April 2008, prior to the will be looking for maximum beneﬁ ts Thanks also to Beverley Burnett and evening nosh, the KASK AGM will be from the funding available. Ways Julie Reynolds who have been do- held at the Ohope Beach forum. of supporting long term projects are ing a lot of behind-the-scenes work. being looked into. Happy paddling. If you have a motion(s) to be put be- foe the AGM, this (these) need to be We had a KASK Committee meet- Susan Cade submitted to the KASK administrator, ing in late January and I wish to a minimum of 30 days ahead of the date of the AGM. Send any motions, PHOTO COMPETITION with mover, seconder etc. to Linda Ingram at either: KASK Forum Ohope 2008 [email protected] or mail to Bring along your best photo prints for Otherwise mail entries (no later than KASK Administrator a forum photo competition. Entries 20 April 2008) to: PO Box 23 must have a sea kayaking connection KASK Photo Competition Runanga 7841 of some sort. Evan & Linda Pugh West Coast RD2 Entry Guidelines Putaruru 3842 KASK Committee Positions Photos may be entered in the follow- Waikato If you are willing to stand for nomina- ing categories: Photos can be submitted by all who tion on the 2007/08 KASK committee, - Open attend the forum and KASK members or willing to dob someone in, who is - Action (Sea Kayaking) not attending the forum. While every a good team player and not just full - Seascape (kayaks or people do care is taken, KASK will not accept of words of what they promise they not dominate the picture) liability for damage to entries will do, please have a nomination in - Coastal/marine ﬂ ora or fauna 30 days before the AGM to Linda Usage of Photos Ingram. President Susan Cade is step- First, Second and Third places Winning photos may be published ping down after almost four years in awarded per category, and a paddler’s in the KASK Newsletter. Photo the role of president. choice for the best overall photo. Limit competition entrants agree to allow of three photos per photographer per their entries to appear in the KASK The Graham Egarr Annual Paddle category newsletter, and agree to enter in discus- Trophy Awards sion with KASK re their use in either One of these superb trophies, which Format/Techniques: KASK safety promotional material or feature wooden paddle blades on Colour or b&w prints to a maximum the handbook. wood plinths, is for the paddler(s) size of A3, preferably mounted. Note who has (have) made a better than on the back of each photo: category, Display of Photos average contribution to New Zealand caption or locale, name, mail address, The photos will be displayed through- sea kayaking in the past 12 months. email address . No slides please; only out the weekend and the winners Sandy Ferguson is the current holder digital or colour/b&w negative prints. announced at the dinner on Saturday of this trophy. The second award is Images can only be edited with, crop- night. made for the best contribution(s) to ping and resizing. The Sea Canoeist Newsletter in the Judging of the photos past 12 months. Current joint trophy Submission: The judge for this competition is Paul holders are Cathye Haddock and John Entries can be submitted on arrival Hayward who won far too many pho- Kirk-Anderson. at the forum, up to 8.30pm on Friday tographic prizes at the 2007 Anakiwa 25 April. KASK Forum. Nominations also to Linda Ingram.

5 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008

This is the Sea. Accompanied by a other systems to keep us safe and in OPINION modern soundtrack we see people contact with the world. Some of us having great fun and paddling in stun- used to say that this technological SEA KAYAKING COMES ning locations around the world. It’s a juggernaut was ruining our wilderness veritable sea kayaking travelogue and experiences! That was more or less a IN FROM THE COLD it can’t fail to have mass appeal. “Sea joke I suppose, because, as my mate kayaking is for everyone,” it screams. Arunas Pilka said after being attacked by David Winkworth And why not? Isn’t it better to see lots by a crocodile in ’99, you get a whole of people paddling around in kayaks different perspective when you’re the Right about now the Crossing the and less in gas guzzling stink boats? An one on the ground bleeding! Ditch paddlers are feasting on thick environmentally responsible outdoor juicy steaks after their long in-time pursuit for sure. So all this technology is there for us and distance paddle across the Tasman. and the world, which now certainly And right about this time last year our Sea kayaking seems to be booming knows what a sea kayak is, will label friend Andrew McAuley was battling in lots of places. There are more sea us irresponsible if we fail to use it. the elements south of 40 degrees south kayaks around on my piece of coastline in his attempt to be the fi rst to paddle than I’ve ever seen. It used to be that I recall an Australian sea kayak club across the Tasman. if I saw a sea kayak on a car between once having a policy of not carrying Melbourne and Sydney then I gener- EPIRBS on their trips. It may still be in In a few weeks it will be the fi rst an- ally knew the driver! That’s certainly force – I don’t know. Their reasoning niversary of Andrew’s disappearance not the case today. And new boat sales was that they didn’t want people risk- and I think it’s about the right time to in the USA were up 10% last year with ing their lives to come looking for them consider some safety issues and sea kayaks accounting for the increase as if they were overdue on a sea kayaking kayaking’s position in the spectrum power boat sales dropped by a similar trip. A pretty poorly reasoned policy of outdoor pursuits. percentage. in my opinion because whether you want rescuers to come or not, they ARE Andrew’s attempt to be the fi rst to cross The internet has had a great infl uence going to come and poor contact and the Tasman by sea kayak captured the on sea kayaking’s presence. It’s de positioning just makes it more diffi cult attention of the mainstream media all rigeur these days that sea kayaking for them to fi nd you….and really rotten around the world. His failure so close expeditioners run a blog site and woe publicity for sea kayakers. to his goal was grist to the copywrit- betide them if they’re 2 days late in er’s mill. There was the fi rst attempt, updating details of their trip! If you The Australian Maritime Safety Au- the website, the regular updates and kept up with the “Crossing the Ditch” thority (AMSA) which co-ordinates postings and the very public search expedition, you’d know that they all sea rescues in Australian waters effort. And Andrew’s body was not went one better than text messages makes good sense in their advice to found further adding to the mystery. I and kept a regular stream of podcasts sea kayakers: Carry an EPIRB always suppose I’m a little cynical about the coming for the news-hungry media. at sea and activate it when you have a media but I don’t think that’s an alto- The laptops and sat phones and wires life threatening or other serious prob- gether unhealthy attitude in 2008. and battery charging systems must lem. Don’t wait until the last minute to add a lot of weight to the kayaks of activate the EPIRB. They would rather So if the general public a year or two these modern expeditioners! The sea go out and pick up a live person than a ago didn’t know what sea kayakers do kayak has become a veritable offi ce body. Performing rescues is their job. then Andrew’s expedition certainly for some, as the world follows them They are paid to do it and practice it fi xed that. Callers to talkback radio around and waits impatiently for a constantly. and letters to newspapers here in blog update. Australia exposed a range of views Makes good sense doesn’t it! I’m sure re the irresponsibility or otherwise For the rest of us who paddle in club the quality of the rescue services are of his trip and sea kayaking received groups and with friends or choose to the same in New Zealand. real public exposure. “Whaddaya load up the kayak and disappear into think of that McAuley fellow eh?” coastal anonymity for a couple of Having said this I can tell you that is a comment I received many times months there is this feeling that the switching on an EPIRB takes commit- as I fuelled up the car with the kayak world is following us around too! ment because it will bring the cavalry! on the racks or pulled the boat out of When Arunas was nipped by the croc the water at the end of a paddle. Eve- And so it is. It seems only a few short (we were on the far north Qld coast) ryone had…and still does have… an years ago there were no EPIRBS, no it brought spectacular results. He was opinion about Andrew and they want GPS, no mobile phones, no sat. phones, choppered out to hospital within fi ve me to know it. no VHF radio networks and relatively hours and an hour later the Navy ar- unreliable weather forecasts! rived on our little coral island to tell us Around the same time as Andrew dis- that three warships were standing by appeared, Justine Curgenven released All that has changed forever and in the Coral Sea ready to assist! the third DVD in her excellent series now there are fantastic satellite and

6 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Every time I look at my EPIRB now I think of Andrew. His unit was in the cockpit of his kayak just so close to him. His was one of the new 406 strobe-equipped EPIRBs which give a quick positive location unlike the soon-to-be-phased-out 121 units which show a duplicate “ghost position.” Rescuers have to wait for a number of satellites to pass to deter- mine which position is the real one with these units. I wonder if Andrew had time to consider getting the EPIRB out and switching it on but deferred instead to his VHF radio to make a MAYDAY call? I can’t help thinking that the outcome may have been different had he done so.

Before I ﬁ nish on EPIRBs….if you carry one and haven’t yet updated to the new 406 units, you’ll have to do so by early 2009 when the 121 frequency monitoring will be switched off. Why not do it now? Did you know that for your EPIRB to work it must have a clear look at the sky...and if you’re in the water with an activated unit, how are you going to keep it out of the water and signalling effectively? Hold it up in your hand for an hour or more?

Something to consider. Also, the new 406 unit signals are identiﬁ able to indi- vidual owners and they are required to lodge personal and watercraft details with the rescue authorities. Makes Dave (Crocodile Winky) Winkworth at the 2006 Anakiwa KASK Forum good sense – they’ll know they’re looking for a sea kayak rather than pretty horrible sea state, the pilot it seems to me a good idea for us to a gin palace. However, if you travel couldn’t see them. They were able have some sort of uniform voluntary overseas with your EPIRB you should to use their VHF radio to guide the call sign system. It may make a dif- let the rescue authority in that country chopper right down to them. In the ference for someone one day. When know you’re there, otherwise valuable other rescue the paddler had been in the you register a 406 EPIRB, “What is time may be wasted as they seek your water for four hours and it was dark. your call sign?” is one of the questions. details from your home country. Boats were around him but couldn’t What are you going to say? locate him. He used his radio bring a A valuable supplement to the EPIRB rescue boat right to him. Here’s a thought: The call sign I use is a handheld VHF radio. Their range, is the phonetic alphabet words for while not great, is acceptable and with You may remember the VHF radio my christian and surname initials one of these units you can talk to coast call that Andrew McAuley made off with KILO for “kayak” stuck on the patrols, ships and planes. Try that with the coast of Fiordland. He used the call end. It comes out DELTA WHISKY a mobile phone! sign “Kayak One.” It was quite OK to KILO. Our editor’s call sign would use this call sign except that no-one, come out PAPA CHARLIE KILO. Their value was really brought home his supporters included, could identify Pretty simple. to me a few years ago when, here in him through his call sign! Australia we had a couple of “EPIRB” ‘Might be something worth consider- rescues of sea kayakers. In both cases Would it have made a difference if he ing at the April KASK Forum. See the paddlers were in the water. In one could’ve been immediately identiﬁ ed you there? of the rescues, a chopper was directly through his call sign? We’ll never above the paddlers but, due to the know the answer to that question but

7 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008

The Monument loomed conspicuously It was a special moment waking in NEW ZEALAND out of the bush with what looked like the morning, partly because I was sheer cliffs at the summit. waking (which meant I must have TRIP REPORTS actually been asleep), partly because We visited the Hope Arm Hut and I was still there (not at the bottom of A Monumental Paddle thrashed our way up a shallow side the cliff) but mostly because the view by Jacqui Anderson creek just for fun, fi nally landing at the was still fabulous. photos: Belinda Mulvany base of yon hillock at about teatime. After stowing boats, we scrambled Descending after breakfast, I won- Note to self- when Belinda asks us on into packs and started up. The climb dered which bit had caused me so an excursion, ask more questions. initially gentle enough through open such trouble the day before, as we beech, narrowed to a steep rocky ridge loped along all relaxed and unhurried. We had a couple of days spare. Belinda where footing became crumbly and After a swim, we continued coast Mulvany had an idea - the Mulvanys treacherous to all but mountain goats crawling in our boats, spotting crested are known for their ideas. “What about (which it appeared Belinda and Tim grebes, families of scaup and hearing a paddle on Lake Manapouri and bivvy both were). long-tailed cuckoo throw their voices overnight on the Monument?” from tall trees. There were other tiny I threw a wobbly and continued with- treasures to discover, like the little Paddle? No problem. out the pack. The fi nal challenge was mauve fl owers we had been trampling Bivvy? Did that mean sleeping under a rocky chimney with a fi xed chain in on some soggy beach which turned out a rock? I packed the pup tent. which the sheer drops were mercifully to be sandfl y-catching bladderwort, an “Tent?” Said Belinda when she heard. obscured. un-pretty name for a very pretty and “But there won’t be room.” clever wee plant. I tried to imagine the circumstances Sidling around the last craggy bit, where there wouldn’t be room for a the stunted trees were festooned with The water changed from luminous tent as small as ours, but couldn’t. lichen beards. lime to black in a short distance as “What about footwear?” I asked. the lake fl oor dropped steeply and “Oh you could do it in jandals,” she Reaching the summit, I backed up invited several swims as the day got said airily. against the trig for support and took in hotter and hotter. I packed my boots. the view. The last sun of the afternoon Complete with gear for any change warmed the peaks, the shallow deltas These two perfect paddling days in plans or weather, we launched of streams glowed golden and several changed our thoughts on Lake Mana- at lunchtime on a warm January dark lakes revealed themselves. pouri completely - not such a dark and Thursday. forboding place, in such gorgeous After tea, we settled down into the three weather. You’d be hard-pressed to There was Belinda, Tim, Jacqui and fl attest bits of the area. Me jammed into fi nd more beautiful scenery, so un- Noel (who joined us for the daytime a prickly mingimingi to prevent the spoiled but still accessible. We are but went home to sleep). sleepwalking I am known for, while already thinking of other occasions Tim fell asleep in a mossy hollow to go back. We’d been paddling for a full 40 and did the snoring he is known for. minutes before Jacqui needed to eat. Belinda and I lay awake for a long time Good idea Belinda! A gentle grumbling was heard from watching the big saucepan move from Writer: Jacqui Anderson Noel who felt we’d only just started. one side of the sky to the other. Photographer: Belinda Mulvany After basking on a glacier polished rock and nibbling on summer fruit, Jacqui on Lake Manapouri off we went again, passing a group of tiny islands and meandering around Stockyard Cove, a sheltered harbour with a high waterfall and good fi shing. We disembarked to check out a short portage to another bay, for future reference.

Noel peeled off late in the afternoon, heading for a safe mattress and the three of us circumnavigated Hope Arm, hugging the shore, rocky and bushclad. Rata trees ﬂ owered out of cracks in the cliffs and kowhai dangled long seed pods towards the water.

8 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Above and right: views of Jacqui and Tim on the ascent and descent of the Monument, Lake Manapouri

Above: From left, Belinda, Tim and Jacqui on top of the Monument View from the Monument across Hope Below: Jacqui and Tim Anderson paddling; the Monument on the skyline Arm to Mt Titiroa in the distance

9 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008

half a year, with shooting practice at driving from shop to shop became too weekends, both clay pigeon and target, much for her and Freya reduced the SOUTH ISLAND and also an airgun in the backyard. To shop number to three. qualify for the licence was a tough CIRCUM- exam with only about a third passing. A The pregnancy also caused a cessation NAVIGATION hunting/weapons licence was the only of skydiving. Freya had only been pad- way you could have a gun in Germany. dling twice in a double Klepper with by Paul Caffyn Freya’s mother was a teacher, husband Werner, who was a SEAL with the German navy. Looking for On 2 January 2008, German paddler From the age of six to 16, Freya at- a sport she could take her son with Freya Hoffmeister became the fi rst tended gymnastics training four times her, she bought a red Feathercraft woman to paddle solo and unsupported a week, with competitions almost K1 – brand new and very expensive around the South Island. Commencing every weekend, but she was too tall for at 5,000 marks. She began paddling from Okiwi Bay on 24 October 2007, inclusion in the national competitions. easy rivers and sections of the Baltic Freya took 70 days for the 2,386km She was taught fl exibility, good body Sea coastline – no real whitewater at recorded by her GPS unit. Her pad- movement, and reacting to falling. that stage. dling days numbered 48, with 22 days days off for weather or big surf. Her Freya took up body building from 18 With her son Helge, in a back hatch daily averages: to 23, training up to four times a week of her kayak, Freya met a group of - all up average per day: 34.09 km/day in a studio, with regional competitions, touring paddlers on a lake. One of the (21.3 mpd) while working as an government edu- guys did a bit of white water and had - paddling day average: 49.71 km/day cation administrator for three years. a real sea kayak, a plastic boat. Freya (31.1 mpd) Her parents were supportive but not joined the group and was taught to pushy and even then, Freya had no roll in the Baltic Sea. As I believe this is on of the most sig- interest in kayaking. nifi cant solo kayak trip undertaken by Freya mastered rolling and joined two a woman in the southern hemisphere, I Across the fjord from Kiel, when she men in rough conditions in the Baltic have included a brief profi le of Freya, was growing up, Freya could see sky- Sea. She felt comfortable bracing into her kit list, and her own accounts of divers and in her early 20s she went to the waves. Her next paddle was a real two standout days, the fi rst a tumultu- the local airport and went up in a plane sea kayaking trip on the North Sea, he ous day on the West Coast when the full of skydivers. This was the start in a fi breglass sea kayak, Freya in her stern of her kayak was broken off and of 10 years skydiving, the highlight Feathercraft. she lost her paddle in a surf thrashing, a sky dive out of a Russian jet, over the second her fi nal 32 hour stint from the North Pole with 40 others. Freya Freya joined local trips and sought Big River to Okiwi Bay. jumped with a Russian lady passenger all the instruction she could get. At in the fi rst tandem jump over the North the end of that year she attended a Even though Australian Sandy Robson Pole. After landing at 2 am, they were German sea kayak symposium and paddled a far greater distance in 2007 picked up by Russian helicopters – of met a chap who had attended overseas along the coast of eastern Australia, three expected, only two arrived, and symposiums. and since the crocodile attack near the fl ight out on an overloaded chopper Cape Direction, she has paddled was scary; as was landing on an ice In 2003 Freya bought a Kajaksport from Broome to Exmouth and is now strip which was melting before being kayak, which Helge enjoyed for the paddling from Esperance to Perth in picked up in a fi xed wing. next two years sitting in a back hatch Western Australia, I believe the skills, again. This time he was better equipped planning, commitment and determina- Freya completed 500 tandem jumps with a dry suit, a cute little spray skirt tion required to complete a solo South and met her future husband who was and rolling skills (not really himself, Island trip may give Freya a slight edge a skydiving instructor. Her husband but tough enough to stay seated, just over Sandy’s achievement. Werner is 18 years older and lives in case). next door to Freya, two people living together, and both really strong indi- Freya and a German instructor went PROFILE viduals. Werner looks after their son to the annual Anglesey (Wales) Helge while Freya is away paddling; symposium in 2004, after which she Freya was born at Kiel, on the northern a very supportive relationship. was hooked. Justine Curgenven was tip of Germany in 1964. Her sister was there showing slides of trips at night, three years older but very different Freya worked as an ice cream shop and she had only one VHF copy of to Freya. Her father, who worked as manager for a year then used some This is the Sea 1, which Freya was fi shing administrator, was a hunter inheritance money from a grandfather very lucky to be given. She really and Freya feels she proably got some to buy the shop she was managing. enjoyed the symposium socializing outdoor skills from hunting with her From her fi rst shop, bought at the age with good evenings at the ‘Paddler’s father. She gained a hunting licence of 22, she built up a chain of seven Return’ hotel. Freya started to travel to after attending school twice a week for ice cream shops. While pregnant, the international sea kayak symposiums in

10 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Wales, Jersey, Scotland and Norway, 12 Mile, West Coast, South Island to learn more about what she really loved. In October 2004 Freya dis- covered Greenland style rolling at the Georgia/ USA symposium in October 2004. Having been an ex-gymnast she decided, “That’s it! That’s for me.”

Greenland 2006 Freya attended the annual traditional Greenland kayaking championships which were held at Sisimuit in West Greenland. It was a different world of paddling skin kayaks, and Freya admits she is not a traditionalist by any means. She is happy with her carbon ﬁ bre kayak and Greenland paddle, and a tulilik made of fuzzy rubber.

She has taken Greenland style paddling to different dimensions, especially by adding the on kayak movements, such Freya in the middle bit of her three piece kayak, endeavouring to settle a fi ght as the headstand and paddle on head between Gordon and Morag Brown’s kids as to who could hold on to the sword balancing. Freya entered eight competitions - races, rolling, team rolling They already had kayaks for Iceland; had emailed to say he would be willing and marathon - and competing with two Nigel Dennis Explorers used. to do text daily forecasts, the same as Greenlandic women, she won eight Back in Germany, they had fi ve days he had done same for Rotem. gold medals. to fi nish preparation and planning for Iceland, then fl y to Kefl avik, which New Zealand Iceland 2007 is the international airport for the In 2000 Freya spent two and a half At her fi rst Anglesey symposium in country. Freya told Greg she wanted months as a normal tourist with her 2004, Freya heard a talk by Shawna to do a fast trip, but had no idea of four year old son Helge. She had Franklin and Leon Somme about a how fast. planned to pushbike but there was month paddle they did around Iceland too much traffi c on the roads. They with Chris Duff. Freya was fascinated, They arrived at 11.30pm, and began hiked the Routeburn and Kepler and had trouble sleeping that night the trip next day at 2.30pm with a 90 tracks, and paddled twice, once in when thinking about a biggish trip. km crossing. They were both still in Abel Tasman and once Marlborough good shape from paddling in New- Sounds, with Helge in back hatch. In May 2007, she was back at Angle- foundland. Freya had no thoughts then re more sey with Grey Stamer as Greenland sea kayaking. She fell in love with style rolling teachers. Freya listened The longest stretch was 22 hours – 100 the country, moving from one nature to Rotem Ron talking about her solo km – but it was 24 hour daylight. They hideout after another – without much 53 days trip around Iceland, which saw lots of whale and dolphins, but the contact with the locals - just mother was the fi rst by a solo paddler. Freya south coast was scary with dumping and son in a van. was certain if Rotem could do it, she surf beaches. Along this stretch, they thought she could do it herself. On the just landed once a day to minimize Freya was already thinking about the drive back to Germany from Anglesey, surf landings. A highlight of the trip next trip during last two weeks of Freya told Greg she was going to do was ending up in hot pools at night Iceland trip. New Zealand had been the Iceland trip. which were a feature of all the coastal discussed by Justine and Rotem at villages. Their 1,620 km circuit took the Anglesey symposium when they After two days at home, then she and 33 days, paddling on 25 days and talked about what trips they could do Greg fl ew out to Newfoundland for a weatherbound or resting for the other next. Freya began looking at either sea kayak symposium after which they eight days. Tasmania or South island. paddled eight days from St Johns to Cape St Marie, which was pretty much a Rotem, also Freya and Greg, were What did Freya learn from her trip? dry run to check if Greg’s paddling and able to get daily SMS text messages With no serious experience of surf, expedition skills matched Freya’s. This with forecasts for sea and weather she found the best practice in the east trip was cold, bad weather along with a conditions from Karel Vissel, a Dutch coast bumper dumpers or West Coast few icebergs, in challenging conditions, paddler who was living on a kibbutz lines of surf was minimize the number but as a dry run, it worked fi ne. in Israel. When Freya’s website an- of surf landings each day. nounced the trip on her blog site, Karel

11 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008 FREYA’S EXPEDITION KIT LIST The secret to Freya being able to spend Kayak: long days at sea was her ability to Nigel Dennis Explorer; three piece pee easily at sea. I have never seen a Paddle: member of the opposite pee standing - Epic Wing blade, mid size, 205 cm carbon fi bre, with spare of large blade up, but with her female urinal device size, 210 cm, both take apart Freya was able to do this while in On the PFD: her drysuit with a conventional male - (a black Kokatat Ronin Pro): pee zip. At sea she used a tube into - 406 EPIRB, with built in GPS a plastic bag. In he drysuit she was - VHF Icom radio (needs a waterproof bag, as switch broke) able to keep her underwear dry, but - needs washing in fresh water each night after use in salt water while wearing fuzzy rubber leggings - Olympus waterproof camera she pulled the front of the pants down - strobe light with approximatley 10% spill into - diver’s knife (moved to inside cockpit) her underwear. Freya had a bad case Sprayskirt: of nappy rash after her fi nal 32 hour - Snapdragon Ocean Explorer, neoprene stint to Okiwi Bay. In her Cockpit: - fl ares, one parachute and one smoke Freya’s Diary Days - water bladders, two behind seat back rest; third between her legs with a Following are two signifi cant days hose through a hole in the deck for sucking while at sea from her trip, which I hope will allow - manual pump on top of a water bladder insight into what drives this remark- - one under deck bag, and two side bags; fastex clips hold in place, able paddler. The fi rst details the worst one with knife, two spare hatch covers (one big and one little) day of the trip when the stern of the and one repair tape which can be used on wet surfaces; and the female kayak was broken off during a reverse urinal device and ziploc plastic pee bag loop during the morning launch, and - binoculars in a waterproof bag in one of side bags plus night light loss of her favourite paddle when land- - a Petzl headtorch ing that evening. The day was from - spare battery for waterproof camera near Galway Point (east of Gillespies - spare battery for the GPS Beach) to the mouth of the Wanganui - in Middle bag; lunch, warm fl eece balaclava, and fuzzy rubber balaclava River (out from Harihari). On deck: - Northwater small deck bag: open palm neoprene gloves, sunscreen, The second diary day recounts the fi nal skeg launching device, sometimes the cellphone 32 hour stint from Big River (West - cellphone in waterproof Aquapack oast) to the fi nish at Okiwi Bay. - GPS Garmin 76CX in a waterproof Aquapack – disposable batteries, loaded with Blue Chart (marine charts) - maps; 1:250:000 topo maps in a waterproof Aquapack mapcase - North Water paddle leash View of deck layout in front of cock- - helmet, aft of cockpit (Sweet Struter) carbon fi bre kevlar (under a net on pit; chart case with GPS(left) and the back deck, and always worn for launching and landing) cellphone (right). Tube for drinking - spare paddle in a paddle bag, clipped to the aft deck on bottom right - bungee on top of forward compartment hatch for placing paddle when resting Bow Compartment: - sleeping bag, down; in a waterproof bag - bag with camp clothes; T shirt, rainjacket, hooded fl eece shirt, bike pants, and fl eece leggings, one normal set of black pants; swimming costume - bag with Thermarest; thinnest smallest one: camp towel; - Teva sandals, copy of Obscured by Waves, bottles of stove fuel Day Hatch Compartment: - bag with valuables such as wallet, satphone, offi ce including diary, Canon camera, passport, cables for all the charging equipment; fi rst aid kit; repair kit; on top a grey over cag, doubled as a sprayskirt as well, but also good onshore when raining or to keep sandfl ies away; some food; solar panel charger Aft Compartment: Tent, tent poles, tent pegs, both for sand and solid; Kitchen bag with billy with Whisperlite stove, small fuel bottle and second big one; three bags of food Carry Bags: Each compartment had one carry bag, big, wide foldable bags, to be able to unload kit from the compartments.

12 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

I would have to punch out through brand new kayak in time, instead of some big lines of surf this morning. taking the old one it wouldn’t have Just a Normal Day The dress code would be helmet and happened? This one already did a bug net, but I skipped the latter. I swal- great job around Iceland this summer, on the West Coast lowed several sandfl ies, spat them out but - it was too late now for regrets. and tried to blow them off my face. There were two pieces of kayak on by Freya Hoffmeister One of the beasts felt happy fl ying right the beach now, instead of one. And I into my eye. It was irritating when I was on a wild West Coast beach with was trying to concentrate on the best no road access or houses. Suddenly I held my whole kayak in launching time and place. my hand. I took my shirt off, ready to My mind searched for solutions; no jump into my sleeping bag, and it just I got washed up the beach again several way to call for help. I need to fi x it fell off. It was tied to my neck with a times, and eventually broached high up myself, and keep on going! black leather string ever since I began on dry sand. I jumped out to straighten sea kayaking. It was my talisman the kayak, only to get several breakers I checked the hooks on the hull, but - my good omen pendant. The cord full of sand water into the cockpit. I to see clearly, I had to wash the sand had never broken before, but now I emptied it out with some effort, includ- off fi rst. One looked more bent open could just rip the whole leather string ing falling over some times by the than the other. I could try to bend it into small pieces. It was just plain force of new breakers - good nobody back into shape again, with a big rock worn out. was there to watch. as a hammer. I could even swap it to another hook from maybe the front But I didn’t loose the kayak pendant. Eventually I made it straight through deck. I could duct tape or even glass I still held it in my hand! the fi rst breaker, braced into the sec- the whole stern section to the cockpit ond, but the third one got me! It surfed section, to make it more solid with I was too tired to go outside to my me backwards to the beach, digged the bad hook. I should have taken a real kayak, through the hundreds of my stern into the sand. Rolled up the spare set of hooks for that case! But sandfl ies occupying the exit, ready beach, no chance to fi ght against the I hadn’t. to enter the tent and suck my blood. violent force of the sea. No idea how I didn’t search in the repair kit for a I ended up sitting upright on the dry The chunk of fi breglass missing on the new string. I just stuffed the pendant land again, sideways for sure. deck didn’t affect the watertightness into my pocket, and forgot about it the of the boat, so good luck for that - so next morning. Yuppp, OK, sh^#* happens, jumping just the rock hammer solution was the out again, straightening the kayak, fi rst thing to try. I should have checked the leather jumping in again for another launch. string regularly for still being strong Don’t give up! That was the plan - so Hundreds of sandfl ies around my head enough, and I should have checked far so good. again - they love black as much as I the clips and screws of my three-piece do. I took my helmet off, but left the Nigel Dennis Explorer kayak regularly Jumping out was no problem. I hood on. The bug net would have been for still being strong enough. Both grabbed the bow toggle to turn the a better choice, but I wanted to get obviously not frequent enough. kayak around, wondering why it felt going, not to bother with those little so easy. Bugger! The stern section was details of comfort. My bare hands were The kayak pendant talisman bent at a very unusual angle from the also targeted by those blood-sucking cockpit section. beasts. Blowing them away, whilst working on the boat, was another This is what I never wanted! “Du part of the multi-tasking morning. In bloede Kuh! Wie kann man nur so bright sunshine I got nicely hot in my doof sein?” And some more serious black gear, sweating from stress and loud German cursing to myself for mental strain. my stupid actions The hook was solid massive stainless An ugly big chunk of fi breglass was steel, but still bent open from the force missing from the deck. Both hooks of the impact. Not an easy job for a tool of the hull clips were bent almost out of the stone age. I was worried to straight. hammer too much, either to break the hook or to hammer the screws loose, Maybe if I had checked the stainless which were holding them. steel connections more often, it might not have happened. But maybe if I Eventually it looked like it might hold had tightened the clips more often, enough to give it a try. I tightened the the hooks may have deformed even clips and screws with my multi tool earlier. Maybe, if I had received my as best as possible, but no overdoing

13 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008 it! For sure the multi tool got full of by the surge. Eventually it fl oated suf- Turning around for a last look, re- saltwater and sand, too. fi ciently to drag it more or less easy to vealed an obvious wooden cross with where I wanted to start again. something long looking like a grave The bent back hooks felt soft on further up the beach. What happened tightening the clips, but it looked like Jumping in the cockpit, ready to start, here years ago? It was quite a spooky they would hold enough for me to I noticed I had forgotten to attach the place. Not only did I nearly lose my continue. That night I hoped to land spare paddle bag properly. Jumping kayak pendant, but I also came ever sound and safe in the Wanganui River out again, I clipped it back on. so close to losing the stern section of mouth anyway, where there might be my kayak. people around to help. This is what Jumping in again I noticed my skeg I fi gured. launching line was hanging loose Launching from the little river mouth instead of going straight back to the was easy then after all. Why didn’t I A more attentive look around that skeg. Since sand pebbles jammed the see that option earlier? The boat was beach, through the sandfl y clouds, skeg blade in the skeg box quite often, more or less afl oat already, then my would have shown me a nearby little I ran a long cord loop from the skeg timing for punching through the lowest river mouth before the fi rst launching blade to the cockpit, so I could ensure possible breaker was good, and I was try, only about 100 m away. It would I could pull the skeg into position off. My stern came with me. be a slog to get the fully laden boat after launching. But the small loop there, but no more risks! on the skeg broke from the dragging On the open sea, time to relax. Re- force over the ground, just before the leasing the skeg with the cord loop, Option one: Unloading again, carry- second launching try. stuffi ng that away, taking my helmet ing two or three heavy bags of gear off, sliding it under the back deck to the river, dragging or carrying the Again I jumped out, fi shed for the net, taking the fuzzy rubber hood and light boat easier then to the mouth. It spare string sitting in my map case, PFD off, but where was the carabiner would take three return trips. attached a new loop on the skeg, and clipped to the loop of my sprayskirt? threaded the launching cord through Gone, probably stuck open by sand and Option two: Dragging the fully loaded the loop again. slipped off. At sea I used this carabiner kayak 20-30 m to the surf slop, and to clip onto my PFD when I was not dragging it in more or less fl oating Then the map case couldn’t be closed wearing it in calm conditions. manner to the river mouth, cockpit again with all the sand, I needed to covered to keep the dumpers out. undo the four carabiners holding it, Finally opening the velcro neck of my take it off the deck and wash the clips paddle jacket for ventilation, put some I decided on option two. There were out in the river. sunscreen on, and ready to go! still enough layers of fi breglass on the bottom to get worn off in this way. I I attached it to the deck again, and The GPS stuffed under the deck net dragged the heavy boat downhill, me- was ready to start again eventually! survived the whole launching drama, tre by metre, straddling the cockpit and Two hours lost! I had a late morning the kiwifruit and apples in the lit- pulling on the rim. In the slop I used anyway. 10am now - be patient, Freya! tle deck bag were squeezed - fruit my towline to haul the kayak, which - only 60 km to go to the Wanganui salad with salt water is good nutrition was rolled up the beach several times River mouth. anyway.

Repairs almost completed after the disastrous morning launch The Waiho River mouth came up after 15 km, the outﬂ ow of the white glacier water was clearly to be seen from the distance. Green warmer sea water and white glacier river water don’t just mix gradually. The border is sharp - suddenly you are paddling a river instead on the sea!

After entering the sea, the West Coast rivers all swung to the north, with positive beneﬁ t of a speed increase about 1-2 km/h - just like entering a glacier highway. But everything looks more three dimensional, all swell, breakers and normal waves appear higher and just somehow scary in bright sunlight. Floating pieces of wood scared the hell out of me, it might be a shark - but just plenty of playful dolphins

14 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter were visible, the great white thankfully stayed camouﬂ aged in the milky white glacier waters.

I followed my GPS, with my speed increasing all day, satisfying at least, not too bad after that eventful morning!

Whataroa River mouth ﬂ ew out just before Abut Head, but less milky, less scary, less added speed. About 15 km left to the destination.

The Oneone River mouth had a small hut site, civilisation was close again! The triangular shape of Mt. Oneone was a clear landmark. Behind there should be Wanganui River mouth, my The string system Freya used to pull the skeg down safe harbour for the night. after launching from a sand or gravel beach But where was it exactly? The swell trip. But even on maps with a bigger It was a bad run, either wrong timing and waves were pretty high that late scale, river mouths are not always or not fast enough. I started to sprint afternoon. What I could fi gure out where they should be, as they are from too far off the beach. The surge sitting high on a wave crest was not changing over the time. And this time went way up and down a long way, too much - just endless white lines of the Blue Chart GPS was just wrong. which should have indicated to me a breakers everywhere - not too inviting Maybe a loaded topo map might have violent dumper size, too! to land at all! been more precise. I had successfully cleared the offshore Maybe it is behind the next bluff? It But the most precise guiding would breaker zone, and had a few moments must be, as there are no huts to be seen have been using my brain! I was suc- to rest on quieter water, and assess here? No interruption in the beach line, cessfully approaching and entering how should I not be able to handle just white breakers and endless sand. already some other river mouth on the that last barrier. Another look on my GPS showed it West Coast, means don’t get irritated must be right here, just behind the about the endless line of breakers, just I was almost safe up the beach, when triangle mountain! I could see a darker keep on paddling to the north, still way the next dumper came. Later I saw zone right in the mountain’s shadow. I out, clear of all breakers. they made their way at a 45˚ angle need to get closer and have a look! northwards along the beach. That Eventually from the northern side fi nal mighty dumper just developed Somehow I was able to avoid three there will be showing up a zone with where I didn’t expect it, to the right huge offshore breakers, just shout- less breakers on the more fl at north of me instead of from behind. ing at them, “You don’t get me, you beach of the river mouth, and maybe bloody bastard!” ending up highest on you can even enter the river over It trashed me violently. A high brace top of the fi rst one, bracing into the the bar without catching too many was useless. During the capsize my second one, and punching forward breakers. paddle was wrenched from my hands. again through the third one. Then there No chance to hold on to it. I probably I was, halfway closer, in a quietish What irritated me this time was the tumbled sideways up the beach two zone of water. “Get closer, Freya, GPS map position, the shadow zone or three times, lying fl at on the back eventually you’ll see where the river behind the triangle Mt. Oneone which I deck until I managed with an already mouth might be!” thought my have been the river mouth, well practised ‘beach hand roll’ to sit also the lack of huts to be seen, as I upright high on shore, where the surge Some more careful approaching, and was sitting way out there on up and of the dumper spit me out. I was luckily the last dumper looked temporarily down going waves without any precise in one piece, and my kayak was, too! like I could handle it. A sandy beach vision of the shoreline. Unfortunately Good to be fl exible! anyway, so why keep on searching I just dangerously underestimated the for that hidden river mouth, when I fi nal shore dumpers, once through the But my paddle was gone! My loved could just land here? Time it right, fi rst breaker zone. ‘special edition’ black Epic wing blade and I’ll be OK. had disappeared! Swallowed by the I waited carefully for the fi nal beach dumping sea, like the sea was laugh- I had a 1:250.000 map, plus my GPS landing through what I estimated was ing at me, “If you are that foolish to with the Blue Chart map, which was a ‘normal size’ dumper, and eventually dare to land here, I have to take your generally precise enough for the whole paddled in past a big one. favourite toy away!”

15 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008

Where was it? I immediately jumped out of the kayak, realizing I had to be quick to ﬁ nd it. The seas swept northwards at 45˚, so it might be washed in that direction! But although walk- ing up and down the beach several times, saying (in German), “Little sweet paddle, please come back to me! I am naked and helpless without you!” – but not a single glimpse of my paddle again.

The trip had good and bad days. This was the blackest day of my trip. But I’m unhurt, my repairs to the clips were successful, I had spare wing paddle, nothing really to stop me to continue.

Victurus Vicero! (Keep on Fighting!) Freya checking GPS positions for landings from Greymouth to Farewell Spit

The Final Leg - I’m done! 10pm after I had paddled 80 km in 15 Just some moderate headwinds to deal by Freya Hoffmeister hours – the night paddle would add with on the start - nothing to complain another 17.5 hours to a challenging much about! (Big River to Okiwi Bay) 165 km leg. Well, what shall I write - too much Fighting tiredness was the downside going on again! So many people wish- Just some key fi gures here: of a long push. In Iceland, Greg ing me well in person, via e-mail, on 2386 km total, 70 overall days, 48 Stamer and I had paddled through one blog comments or on the phone - busy paddling days averaging about 50 night for 22 hours. I was interested times! I would like to thank everybody km per paddling day. First woman to see how my body could cope with again for mental and practical sup- to circumnavigate the South Island, a longer session without landing in port, and will answer all your lovely 30 years after Paul Caffyn’s brilliant New Zealand. e-mails shortly! fi rst trip, the third solo, unsupported and continuous journey, fi fth person From dusk, I paddled without my I fi nished my trip on Wednesday 2 to complete the whole circle. Fastest headlight switched on until about January 2008, 3.15 pm, after a last day circumnavigation ever. 1am, navigating for 1.5 hours along and night’s leg of 165 km, just to make the breaking surf off Farewell Spit it a bit harder. Actually, the forecast What an amazing experience and fi n- by sound only. Mostly between 1am for the next two days sounded like ish! The previous day’s scenery was and 5am, I regularly had to collapse stronger winds again, and I didn’t want the best of my whole trip, one lovely on to the front deck, taking 30 second to wait any more days to be done! remote sandy beach besides the next, power naps. between rocks shaped in an endless I had already planned to fi nish off with row of caves and arches. I was able Or I stretched out on the rear deck, an 85 km crossing of Tasman Bay to paddle through three of the big- using my helmet stuck under a net on before I started the trip, therefore I gest arches on New Years day, which the deck as a pillow and closed my eyes decided to launch from Okiwi Bay. I suppose brings luck to me! The for some seconds. For some minutes, swell was low that day, and I could I just paddled like that, lying on the French Pass would have been even have landed anywhere without much rear deck and having my favourite star better and would have saved another trouble in the surf. combination in the sky for navigating, day, but it would have been just such perfectly in view! And it was good to a loooooooong drive to get out there... I knew especially this last stretch occasionally lift my backside off the and I was just happy about Bevan of coastline could be very diffi cult seat sometimes, as it started to feel Walker driving me spontaneously out and would have proved to be the last quite sore after so many hours pad- to Okiwi Bay that night before starting, challenge of the trip with no sheltered dling. I would always then take care after his own long hard day’s work. landing since Little Wanganui River to slowly raise my body back into the Thanks again to Bevan! (Karamea), but I felt lucky to paddle paddling position, to avoid damage on a sunny day with quiet waters to to my spine. To add even a bit more icing on the fully enjoy this last leg of the trip. trip cake, the fi nal crossing started at

16 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Occasionally I drew too close to the surf zone, got caught by breakers, and I had to brace into them. Most breakers washed my PFD off the front deck but it remained clipped with a carabiner to my sprayskirt loop. The waves were sensual to move with, up, down and sideways. Nothing seriously breaking or being violent that night! Warm waters anyway, a ﬂ at beach with no obstacles threatening. Just in case I would have been washed up and stranded on the beach, I would not have cared!

What helped me paddling through the night was I really enjoy paddling with closed eyes for long distances, being able to dance blind with the waves, and if necessary navigate by Freya during a gripping run over the Grey River bar. The swell that is about sound despite any wave conditions! to break behind her was well over 3m high One hour after I passed the Farewell Once I felt I had to fi ght tiredness more to realize I would keep paddling after Spit lighthouse, I could no longer hear than being distracted and kept alert by reaching the tip of Farewell Spit. the sound of waves breaking on the the bioluminescent entertainment, I sand, and heard only silence. I knew I switched my headlight on, trying to I would arrive in a decent time, by had reached the end of that very long keep my body and mind awake- more doing a night crossing, rather than spit. Now the open waters of Tasman or less successfully. sleeping for some hours and ending Bay lay ahead and the start of a long the crossing at 11pm or even mid- 85km crossing. The rising sun at 5am gave my body night. Paul was happy to organize a some relief as it marked my usual ‘welcome party’ with plenty of friends It was the best decision I could have waking up time. I was able to paddle paddling with me for the last kilome- made, just to keep going through the temporarily a bit more strongly after tre. Thanks to all of you coming out night! It was such a lovely tranquil a few breakfast cereal bars. to greet me! night after an already calm day without much swell - millpond seas, a clear sky I was successfully fi ghting my usually Fiona and Martin Fraser prepared a with attractive new southern star pic- early morning need for a ‘big’ toilet Pavlova, with sliced kiwifruit, choco- tures for me to look at and to navigate walk. In case I had to go, I had planned late fl akes and lashings of whipped with, and some fascinating biolumi- to jump into the warmish water and cream on top. Luckily it was decided nescense effects in the water! strip off my pants. Peeing was no not to throw it in my face, but rather to problem anyway with my funnel and allow me to eat it and share it around This natural phenomena of biolumi- hose female urinating device. - the champagne sprayed by Paul was nescense while paddling through the messy enough already! Thanks for the night was like a one day delayed per- I began noticing sore rub spots on my hot shower at David Oldham’s house; sonal New Year’s eve fi reworks, end- backside after sitting in the cockpit he also provided the launch for the less entertainment almost all night. seat for so long. I was wearing a warm press and TV reporters, too! combination of fuzzy rubber pants On each paddle stroke, tiny waves over fl eece pants, which gave me a The TV3 crew fl ew in by helicopter created by the kayak bow stirred kind of a slight nappy rash. at 2pm, but couldn’t spot me on the lines of glowing sparkles. Droplets water. They landed and joined the splashed over my kayak, sticking to While approaching my fi nal destina- motorboat crew to fi lm me on my my paddle and gear, and glowing for tion, I entertained myself with cell last kilometre, together with the press some seconds until the next splash of phone calls to family and friends, and reporters. JKA from the Christchurch glowing water. was very happy to be in range and Press was not kayaking but was in the touch again. boat with cameras. So good to have a And then the dolphins - three times for paddling photo reporter amongst the about 10 minutes, four to six dolphins I had called Paul at 9pm the previous kayaking friends! played with my boat, leaving glowing night to let him know my estimated traces of water behind them! I could al- arrival time and to inform him about But a big thanks to Paul Caffyn organ- ways follow exactly where they were, my planned night paddling. It took him izing the welcome party! He was my by their glowing white trails in the sea a while, and about three times, asking, great public relations manager and beneath the sparkling starlight. “So, where are you staying tonight?” local trip organizer throughout the

17 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008 whole trip, driving me around, supporting me with local knowledge and hosting me for quite a while!

A big thanks to Karel Vissel, who supported me with reliable, regular weather text messages on my Sat-phone and provided some blog updates.

A big thanks again to all people I’ve met on my trip, who supported me mentally and practically with offer- ing their homes and hospitality to me, encouraging me with supportive e-mails and comments!

And a big thanks to all people following this blog and supporting me with Freya Hoffmeister feeding photographer John Kirk-Anderson spoonfuls of lovely comments! I still owe you a a tasty pavlova, complete with sliced kiwifruit and whipped cream, after she trip report of the days from Riverton had completed the fi rst successful solo paddle by a woman around the South on the south coast to the fi nish! So Island, at Okiwi Bay, on 2 January 2008. Fiona Fraser is lurking in the much writing in one rush can’t be background with a very sharp pointed implement to ensure the pavlova is done that fast, sorry. Actually I always evenly distributed amongst the welcoming paddlers felt pretty impolite when I got into people’s houses, being hosted for a Freya Hoffmeister arriving in Okiwi Bay night or two, and I ‘urgently’ had to by Martin Fraser jump on the computer, to update this Freya was expected to arrive at 3.30 up the beach and started unloading it. blog rather than talking to my hosts pm so at 2.30 we, along with about four Someone, who shall remain nameless, - sorry about that! or fi ve other kayaks, headed out from started sponging out the water in the Okiwi Bay to see if we could spot her cockpit until AJ mentioned that it is after a 32 hour non stop paddle. It was never a good idea to sponge out a a fi ne day but it wasn’t until she was competitors kayak on the coast to coast quite close that we saw her still going as they have been in there so long that strong. She seemed quite surprised and they pee into the boat, the sponger put pleased to see our small fl otilla which two and two together, dropped the we hurriedly turned around to escort sponge and went running for the sea her into the beach. with hands outstretched.

Meanwhile a local chap - David Old- Once all the media stuff was over ham - had offered the news media a Freya came over to see us and help ride on his boat, which turned up and with the ﬁ nal demolition of the pav. motored along in front of us allowing She was in remarkably good nick for the cameramen to take photos while someone who has just paddled 165 we paddled to shore. km chatting away about paddling at night with photoluminescence trail- Once there she showed off a roll to ing out behind dolphins that kept her the media then was surrounded by company. She had some short sleeps them wanting interviews and pictures. leaning on the front deck and had Paul let rip with a bottle of bubbly devised a technique that allowed her Fiona Fraser with the scrumptious that sort of exploded everywhere and to paddle with her backside held off pavlova which is part of the formal Fiona presented her with a pavalova the seat for short periods. welcoming tradition for paddlers which she really does love eating huge who complete a circumnavigation spoonfuls as fast as she could. It was great to see her in and all there of the South Island. No one present were very pleased she had done so well was brave enough to wallop Freya Four of us carried her kayak, which getting around as fast as she had. in the face with the pavlova, the must have weighed 100kg full of gear, unexpected fate that was suffered by Bevan Walker and Paul Caffyn in The welcoming party: Chris Hinkley, Harold Lonie and AJ from the the past. Nelson Canoe Club and KASK, Martin and Fiona Fraser, also JKA from Christchurch, and Paul from the West Coast.

18 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter KAYAK KALENDAR

COASTBUSTERS SEA KAYAK SYMPOSIUM 2008 website: www.coastbuster.org.nz When: 1 – 2 March 2008 Where: Auckland The registration form can be downloaded from the above website, with information on how to pay the registration fee. Mail enquires to Coastbusters, PO Box 101-257, NSMC, Auckland.

The busy weekend programme is now on the website plus details of speakers and activities. Speakers include Sandy (kayak attacked by a crocodile) Robson, on her Australian paddle.

In the weekdays between these two events, we have planned for a number of activities and will promote this as a week full of kayaking opportunity. Some of the activities include: local and regional kayak trails & camping trips, on-the- water training, workshops, a sea-kayak race, etc.

As part of a week-long International Kayaking Festival, the core CB event will be followed on 8 – 9 March (the next weekend) by the Rotorua/Blue Lake NZKBGT (New Zealand Kayak Builders’ Get-Together). And a link from the website has a information page on this 7 - 9 March gathering, with details of the program, accommodation and (no fees) registration page link.

KASK FORUM 2008 www.kask.co.nz When: 25 - 27 April 2008, Anzac Day weekend Where: Ohope Beach, near Whakatane, in the Bay of Plenty

A registration form was included in KASK newsletter No. 130, but a form is also available via the KASK website, and go to the events page.

Venue: Ohope Beach Christian youth camp 6kms east of Whakatane, perfect for surf training, a nice ﬂ at shallow beach with nice waves rolling in. Paddle destinations include Whale Island day paddle, leave from Whakatane, around rocks at Whakatane, Ohiwa Harbour and down to end of Ohope Spit for on-the-water sessions. The camp has a total of 80 bunks and 70 camp spots, a large hall and caterers on site.

Evan Pugh notes a strong emphasis will be on training, with David Winkworth from Australia as one of the instructors.If Justine Curgenven and Barry Shaw have ﬁ nished their South Island circumnavigation in time, Paul Caffyn will ensure that they attend and speak at the Ohope KASK Forum, before they ﬂ y out of Auckland on 29 April.

Along with kayak manufacturers attending, Evan notes an excellent response from retailers and equipment manufacturers for weekend prizes and a quiz for kayaking knowledge. As a fair number havae already booked in so far, so please do not leave registering too late as you may miss out. For more information, email Evan Pugh at: [email protected]

BUGGER OF THE YEAR AWARD New annual award for silliest paddling effort during the past 12 months. Nominations in writing to Evan Pugh please by mid-April.

BOOKS & MAGAZINES Anyone with surplus pre-loved sea kayaking Sandy Robson, one of the books or magazines, email the editor. Second- keynote speakers at Coast- hand and new book cattle dog available from busters 2008, at Broome in the editor. I am keen to locate early copies Western Australia, under- of ‘White Water’, a canoeing journal ﬁ rst going intensive training as printed in 1953. to appropriate behaviour with territorial Back copies of KASK newsletters available male crocodiles fromt the editor. Trade for stamps.

19 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008

and external infl atable sponsons, also a My two attempts at crossing the Tas- Crossing the Ditch foot operated bilge pump. On 30 July man in 1987 and 1989 were made in by Paul Caffyn Romer arrived at Saint Thomas in the a fi breglass double kayak; sextant, Virgin Islands, after 58 days at seas compass, chart and time piece for Why is there no glowing report in the from the Canaries. navigation; no sails, just paddle pro- newsletter on James Castrission and pulsion. No podule on the stern, just Justin Jones after they completed a His legs had atrophied. At night in sprayskirts over the cockpit coamings 62-day paddle/drift across the Tasman big seas, Romer trained himself to at night, with a face mask and tube Sea to New Plymouth? In my view, catch moments of sleep in the troughs for breathing through the sprayskirt their nine metre long vessel with a between waves, but wake up for at night. pointy bow and a caravan (podule) dropping over the swell crests. Sadly, on the stern was a boat – not a kayak. when Romer set off on September 8 to In 2000 British paddler Peter Bray Weighing nigh on 1,000 kg, paddles complete an Atlantic Ocean crossing at crossed the Atlantic from Newfound- would have been such an ineffective New York, he had added an outboard land to Ireland in 76 days, but his kayak mean of propulsion – two sets of oars motor and fuel tank. He missed a hur- looks remarkably like Lot 41, a podule with sliding seats would have been ricane warning and no sign of him or on the stern for sleeping and riding far more effi cient in terms of forward his boat was ever found. out big seas, and kitted with modern propulsion. Heading from east to west satellite navigation and communica- – the direction Colin Quincy took in In 1955 Hannes Lindemann sailed tion equipment. early 1977 in his rowing boat crossing a dugout canoe, with weighted keel from Hokianga Harbour to Marcus and rudder, across the Atlantic from Andrew McAuley’s trans-Tasman at- Beach, south of Noosa Heads - would the Canaries to the Caribbean. The tempt in 2007 used a fi breglass bubble have considerably reduced their time following year he decided to try again (Casper) pulled over the single cockpit at sea. in a standard off-the-shelf Klepper of his Mirage kayak for sleeping. Aerius double kayak. An outrigger Andrew had used a sail for several Julie Reynolds and her partner Scott for stability, an extra sprayskirt and of his big kilometre days, but still the drove down to New Plymouth to join a mainmast for sails were the only primary means of propulsion was his the large crowd waiting for the two modifi cations he made. Lindemann paddle. Andrew did not have a large to fi nish, missed it by 15 minutes but left Las Palmas in the Canaries on 20 podule on his kayak stern, where he took a few photographs of the vessel October 1956, and despite capsizes, could climb into and ride out big seas called Lot 41, which I understand was losing the rudder, bad weather and and headwinds as did the ‘crossing the the same lot number that Phar Lap was hallucinations, he arrived at Saint ditch’ blokes, he slid down into the fi rst auctioned before becoming a very Martin after 72 days at sea. The fi rst cockpit to sleep and pulled the bubble famous race horse. true sail assisted ocean crossing in a over the cockpit. He came so close to standard folding kayak. completing his crossing. What are the precedents and on what basis do I make my judgement call In 1987 Californian Ed Gillet made a James and Justin, a jolly good adven- re this boat. The Atlantic Ocean was crossing from Monterey to Hawaii in ture, but in a boat and not a kayak. crossed solo, twice by Germans in a Necky Kayaks Tofi no double kayak. kayaks, both with sail assistance, but With infl atable external sponsons, nevertheless both kayaks had a single Ed used a parafoil kite for progress cockpit and sprayskirt for the paddler, when the trade winds blew, and pad- no watertight podule on the stern. dled during the lulls. Like Romer and Lindemann and Romer, he had only On 17 April 1928 Franz Romer set a sextant, time piece and charts for off from Cape Saint Vincent in Spain navigation. He landed in Hawaii on in a 19.5 foot long kayak, beam of 39 his 63rd day at sea, an amazing piece inches, wooden frame covered with of seamanship. canvas that was built by Klepper. Al- though publicity photos of Deutscher Top right: bow of Lot 41 Sport show Romer in the cockpit with Bottom right; interior of the podule a double bladed paddle, the kayak was Below: stern view of Lot 41 Photos: Julie Reynolds ketch-rigged using sails that could be handled from the cockpit and steered with a pedal controlled shoal-draft rudder. The weight of kayak and load was about three quarters of a ton, excluding Romer.

Unique features introduced with the kayak were internal inﬂ atable gasbags

20 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

The meal was a great success, and He stormed over to my car, looked up HUMOUR Susie even hired a lady from town to at me and said, ‘“I’m NOT f*#%ing come out and help her serve. She had happy!”’ Damned Spot on a white apron and a little cap on So I said, “Well, which f*#%ing one A group of country neighbours wanted her head. It was fi rst class. are you then?” to get together on a regular basis and And that’s how the fi ght started. socialize. As a result, about 10 couples After everyone had fi nished, they formed a dinner club and agreed to all began to kick back and relax and Food for Thought meet for dinner at a different neigh- socialize. The men were visiting and A Doctor was addressing a large audi- bours’ house each month. the women started to gossip a bit. ence of Senior Citizens. “The material we put into our stomachs is enough Of course, the lady of the house was About this time, the lady from town to have killed most of us sitting here, to prepare the meal. When it came came in from the kitchen and whis- years ago. Red meat is awful. Soft time for Chris and Susie Brown to pered in Susie’s ear. She said, “Mrs. drinks corrode your stomach lining. have the dinner at their house, like Brown, Spot just died.” Chinese food is loaded with MSG. most women, Susie wanted to outdo all the others and prepare a meal that With this news, Susie went into hyster- High fat diets can be disastrous, and was the best that any of them had ever ics. After she fi nally calmed down, she none of us realizes the long-term harm lapped a lip over. called the doctor and told him what caused by the germs in our drinking had happened. The doctor said, “It’s water. But there is one thing that is the A few days before the big event, Susie bad, but I think we can take care of it. most dangerous of all and we all have, got out her cookbook and decided I will call for an ambulance and I will or will, eat it at some time or other. to have mushroom smothered steak. be there as quickly as I can get there. Can anyone here tell me what food it When she went to the store to buy some We’ll give everyone enemas and we is that causes the most grief and suf- mushrooms, she found the price for a will pump out everyone’s stomach. fering for years after eating it?” small can was more than she wanted Everything will be fi ne. Just keep them to pay. She then told her husband, all there and keep them calm.” After several seconds of total silence, “We aren’t going to have mushrooms a 75-year-old man in the front row because they are too expensive.” He It wasn’t long until they could hear raised his hand, and softly said, “Wed- said, “Why don’t you go down in the the wail of the siren as the ambulance ding Cake.” pasture and pick some of those mush- was coming down the road. When they rooms? There are plenty of them right got there, the EMTs got out with their Little Johnny strikes again! in the creek bed.” suitcases, syringes, and a stomach A grade school teacher asked her pump. The doctor arrived shortly students to use the word ‘fascinate’ She said, “No, I don’t want to do that, thereafter. One by one, they took each in a sentence. because I have heard that wild mush- person into the master bathroom, gave Molly put up her hand and said, “My rooms are poisonous.” He then said, them an enema and pumped out their family went to my granddad’s farm, “I don’t think so. I see the varmints stomach. and we all saw his pet sheep, it was eating them all the time and it never fascinating.” has affected them.” After the last one was fi nished, the The teacher said, “That was good, but doctor came out and said, “I think I wanted you to use the word fascinate, After thinking about this, Susie de- everything will be fi ne now, and he not fascinating.” cided to give this a try and got in the left.” Sally raised her hand. She said, “My pickup and went down in the pasture family went to see Rock City and I and picked some. She brought the wild They were all looking pretty peaked was fascinated.” mushrooms back home and washed sitting around the living room, and The teacher said, “Well, that was good them, sliced and diced them to get about this time, the town lady came Sally, but I wanted you to use the word them ready to go over her smothered in and said, “You know, that fellow fascinate.” steak. Then she went out on the back that ran over Ol’ Spot never even porch and got Ol’ Spot’s (the yard dog) stopped!” Little Johnny raised his hand. The bowl and gave him a double handful. teacher hesitated because she had been She even put some bacon grease on Fight Starter burned by Little Johnny before. them to make them tasty. Ol’ Spot Defendant to the Judge: She fi nally decided there was no way didn’t slow down until he had eaten “Just so you know, this is how the he could damage the word ‘fascinate’, every bite. fi ght started. I rear-ended a car this so she called on him. morning on the way to town. I knew All morning long, Susie watched right then and there that it was going Little Johnny said, “My Aunt Mar- him and the wild mushrooms didn’t to be a REALLY bad day. garet has a sweater with ten buttons, seem to affect him, so she decided to The driver got out of the other car but her tits are so big she can only use them. and wouldn’t you know it, he was fasten eight.” a dwarf. The teacher sat down and cried.

21 No. 132 December 2007 - January 2008 4th. Ed. KASK HANDBOOK Rotorua Kayak Club KASK 7 Mahana Place, Rotorua KASK, the Kiwi Association of Sea Updated to January 2008 Ph: (027) 292 3138 Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc., a network of For a copy (or trade orders) of this email: [email protected] New Zealand sea kayakers, has the mother of all sea kayaking handbooks, GISBORNE Sea Kayakers Club objectives of: contact Paul Caffyn, RD 1, Runanga, John Humphris, 3 Matthews Rd, Gisborne 1. promoting and encouraging the 7873, West Coast. Ph: (06) 868 4657 sport of sea kayaking e-mail: [email protected] email: [email protected] 2. promoting safety standards RRP: $ 34.90 including p&p Website:www.geocities.com/gis- 3. developing techniques & New members: gratis borne_sea_kayakers/ equipment Make cheques out to KASK (NZ) 4. dealing with issues of coastal Inc. WELLINGTON Sea Kayak Network access and protection Mike Wilkin 5. organizing an annual sea kayak The fourth edition of the KASK Hand- 23 A Ilam Grove forum book, is a mammoth compilation on all Kelson, Lower Hutt 6. publishing a bimonthly aspects of sea kayaking in New Zea- Phone: (04) 565 0880 newsletter. land, by many of the most experienced paddlers in the Universe. Following email: [email protected] Website: www.wskn.wellington.net.nz The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is a brief introduction, the handbook is published bimonthly as the ofﬁ cial divided into six sections: newsletter of the Kiwi Association - Kayak, Paddle & Equipment SOUTH ISLAND of Sea Kayakers (NZ) Inc. -Techniques & Equipment MARLBOROUGH Articles, trips reports, book reviews, - The Elements Martyn Smith equipment reviews, new techniques, - Trips and Expeditions Ph: (03) 5776256 letter to the editor, and moments when - Places to Go [email protected] the word ‘Bugger!’ was said singu- - Resources NELSON - KASK Contact larly or often {referred to by some as Nora Flight incidents} are sought to enliven the SEA KAYAKING Ph: (03) 544 7877 pages of the newsletter. NETWORK ADDRESSES email: nﬂ [email protected] NORTH ISLAND CANTERBURY Sea Kayak Net- Send in a plain brown envelope, or NORTHLAND Canoe Club work via cybermail to: PO Box 755, Whangarei Andy & Deirdre Sheppard Editor: Paul Caffyn, Brian Lamerton 53 Kent Lodge Ave RD 1, Runanga. 7873 Ph: (09) 437 2858 Avonhead, Christchurch. 8004 West Coast .N.Z. email: [email protected] Ph: (03) 342 7929 Ph/Fax: (03) 7311806 AUCKLAND Canoe Club email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] PO Box 9271, www.CanterburySeaKayak.orcon.net.nz Newmarket, Auckland. OTAGO KASK Annual Subscription email:[email protected] Rob Tipa $35 single membership HAURAKI Kayak Group (03) 478 0360 ($105 for 3 years; $175 for 5 years) Pelham Housego [email protected] $40 family membership. PO Box 46-146, Herne Bay, Auckland SOUTHLAND Sea Kayak Network $35 overseas WAIKATO KASK Contact Stan Mulvany A subscription form can be down- Evan Pugh, RD2, Putaruru. 3482 03 215 7263 loaded from the KASK website. [email protected] email: [email protected] Cheques should be made out to: Ph: (07) 883 6898 Website: www.sskn.uniformnz.com K.A.S.K. (NZ) Inc. & mailed to: RUAHINE Whitewater Club KASK Administrator 71 Salisbury St., Ashhurst. SKOANZ PO Box 23, Runanga. 7841 Ph: 06 326 8667 Fax: 06 326 8472 Sea Kayak Operators Assn. NZ West Coast www.q-kayaks.co.nz/pages/club.asp SKOANZ BAY OF PLENTY - KASK Contact PO Box 6269 Correspondence/Queries to: Iona Bailey, Tauranga Dunedin Northjj email: [email protected] Linda Ingram Ph: (07) 576 1492 Website: www.skoanz.org.nz KASK Administrator email: [email protected] PO Box 23, Runanga. 7841 ROTORUA- KASK Contact West Coast John Flemming, PO Box 1872, Ro- KASK Website: torua www.kask.co.nz Send address changes for receiving Ph/fax: (07) 347 9950 the newsletter via email to Linda at: email: [email protected] [email protected]

22 Top: Tim Anderson on Lake Manapouri. Photos: Belinda Mulvany Below: Early morning view of Lake Manapouri from the top of the Monument MAILED TO

If undelivered, please return to: KASK , PO Box 23, Runanga, West Coast. 7841

Okiwi Bay, 2 January 2008. Freya at the fi nish of her South Island circumnavgation. Bubbly from Paul Caffyn. Photo: John Kirk-Anderson KASK MEMBERSHIP POLICY Current membership fees are: - $35 for ordinary membership - $40 for family or joint membership - $35 for overseas membership - new members receive a free copy of the handbook - members should endeavour to renew by 1 August - the KASK fi nancial year runs 1 August to 31 July the following year - a subscription due notice and up to two reminders are sent out with the newsletters between June and October - if a membership renewal is not received by 30 September, membership lapses - new members who join between 1 June and 31 July automatically get their membership credited to the following year, receiving a 14 month membership - the KASK committee puts its emphasis confi rming renewals from existing members from July to October; and promoting new KASK memberships from November to February.