Sea Canoeist Newsletter Is Perienced Paddlers in the Universe

ISSN 2253-3826 NEW ZEALAND SEA CANOEIST

The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (NZ) Inc - KASK

No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013

New Zealand Sea Canoeist INDEX EDITORIAL lent lessons’ learned ensuing from EDITORIAL p. 3 the incident. Please don’t hesitate KASK FORUM 8 – 10 March to nominate your paddling mate (se- Evan Pugh has advised there are still KASK crecy promised) for this prestigious spaces available at the Raglan Fo- President’s Report Feb 2013 trophy. rum. See either the KASK website by Ian McKenzie p. 5 for the registration form, or pages 11 Forum Foto Competition – 14 of newsletter No. 159. TECHNICAL Entries will be accepted up till 0900 Is Paddle Weight Important? Australian paddling legend Da- hrs on Saturday 9 March. See page by Paul Caffyn p. 6 vid Winkworth has confi rmed he is 12 of newsletter No. 159 (June – July Further Thoughts on Paddle Weight crossing the ditch to attend and will 2012) for category descriptions and by Derek Wakeling p. 6 be running rolling sessions. A huge competitions rules. ruckus was created in Australian sea SAFETY kayaking circles, when a claim was After the KASK Forum Novel Cellphone Waterproofi ng made by the editor of the NSW Sea JKA Training by Sheri O’Neill p. 7 Kayak Club October 2012 issue of There are still some places for John the club magazine Salt, that: Kirk-Anderson Training on the Mon- NEW ZEALAND TRIP REPORTS Club stalwart Dave Winkworth is day (11 March) after the Forum. This ‘A Walk In The Park’ Lake Te Anau another welcome contributor, now will be fi ve hours of training at Inter- to George Sound & Return resident in NZ, Dave had a huge mediate level and what suits the in- by Sandy Winterton p. 8 and infl uential impact on the club dividual, he can tailor to your needs. as VP for seven years and Training Well worth attending as JKA is a Freya Photo Pose Entries p.12 Co-ordinator for fi ve. BCU level 4 coach and very good. Litigation is currently underway A group of six, maximum, costs are OVERSEAS TRIP REPORTS with Victorian sea kayaking lawyers $80 per person plus accommodation West Island Bits January 2013 involved in a huge lawsuit. Dave at the camp ground in bunk-rooms. by Dave Winkworth p.13 would be a valued asset to our net- Contact Evan Pugh: Murderous Thoughts on a work of Kiwi paddling instructors, [email protected] Very Small Island (Alaska) but despite the recent record high Paddler Gathering by Malcolm Gunn p.16 temperatures, bushfi res and fl oods, The week after the Raglan Forum, Paddling the Whitsundays he cannot be budged from his Tar- there is a gathering at Urapukapuka by Paul Hayward p.17 thra home in southern NSW. Island in the Bay of Islands. BOOKS If you are interested contact Paul New Books and Guides to Paddling KASK AGM Hayward: [email protected] in Australian Waters The AGM will be held late Saturday by Paul Caffyn p.19 afternoon, 9 March at the Raglan fo- EMAIL UPDATES rum. Nominations are sought for the The Freya Pose Photo Competition HUMOUR p.21 committee positions. Please email: from Barbara Leslie [email protected] We had a bit of a laugh yesterday. It was my oldest son’s (Craig) 36th KASK Awards birthday so we decided to give him, as part of his present, a copy of the Deadline for articles and photos Please forward to the editor, nominations for the two annual Graham last KASK newsletter. While we for next newsletter: Egarr Paddle Trophy Awards, for the were waiting in the car for the rest 25 Mar. 2013 best contribution(s) to the NZ Sea of the family to get organized, Craig Canoeist magazine, and for the most and his brother (Phillip – Koby’s dad) Editing and layout: Paul Caffyn outstanding contribution to sea kay- had a look through the magazine and email: [email protected] aking in the past 12 months. found the Freya pose photos. They commented in whispers amongst Big mobs of thanks to The KASK ‘Bugger!’ trophy failed themselves about the hot babe in the upper centre photo (p.12 newslet- all the contributors and to attract an entry last year. This trophy is awarded for the most embar- ter No.161). When I informed them photographers rassing paddling incident of the past that it was myself, there was a lot of 12 months, but has to have ‘excel- backtracking going on!

PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS Cover: Susan Cade on a glorious day, paddling on Lake Te Anau. Photo: Sandy Winterton (See story on p. 8). Opposite page: Top: Sandy Winterton reﬂ ected on the still waters of Lake Te Anau. Photo: Susan Cade Bottom: This entry for the Freya Pose Photo Competition has to be in colour. In ﬂ oral undies, this photo of Mike Bell was taken by Linda Hansen. It has to be a front runner to win the competition.

3 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013

Unusual Sea-sickness Remedy Sea Kayaker Magazines from Kevin Dunsford Need a Good Home KAYAK By the way, you could have kayaked Sandy Winterton has a collection of KALENDAR the entire North Island west coast 67 copies of Sea Kayaker - that need over the last few weeks without housing in a paddler’s library. From even getting wet. We went out in a the years 1992 – 2007, they were KASK FORUM retired lifeboat to the islands off Port given to Sandy by Jenny Roy whose Taranaki with a guy called Chaddy husband and paddler Don Roy had 8 - 10 March 2013 who runs little trips. The boat was passed away. The magazines are in Raglan - West Coast North Island from the coast of England - the sort Wellington with Sandy, free to ﬁ rst that launches into surf on rails. It good home that expresses interest, A superb venue by Raglan Harbour had done service in the South Island and liaises with him re collection and has been booked, and the location before being retired to Taranaki. He or freight. Email Sandy Winterton: offers excellent on the water instruc- had a sea-sickness remedy that was [email protected] tion venues, both inside and outside interesting. the harbour. Late Newsletter Excuses Chaddy noted that people with hear- Yes I know this newsletter is two If you are keen to offer instruction ing aids never got sick so he devel- weeks late. Even the printer has sessions or indoor presentations, oped an alternative - wrapping up been on my back asking when the please get in touch with Evan Pugh: a plug of toilet paper and placing it newsletter would arrive for printing. [email protected] into the ear opposite to the writing Sounds strange, but it is a long run of hand. It seemed to work on the crowd hot weather, clear skies and calmish Newsletter (No. 159) carried a four I was with - even someone who gets seas that are proffered as an excuse. page centrefold Forum registration sick at the sight of sea lasted an hour Building maintenance, wave skiing, form; the form is also downloadable on this trip. Have you heard of this? climbing, salsa dancing and cave div- from the KASK website. ing have provided excellent distrac- Nordkapp History Link tions from completing this noosletter. Evan Pugh is really tough on not tak- from Barry Shaw Just to prove that I am not making up ing late registrations, not to mention I saw this on a forum and thought it these excuses, I have included a pho- the cut-off once 100 paddlers have was interesting. (The link is a back- to of myself surﬁ ng off the 12 Mile. registered. So do not delay if you in- grounder to the development and his- tend attending. tory of use of the Nordkapp kayak) Please keep the articles, trip reports, reviews, photos and terrible jokes com- Forum Foto Competition http://www.ukriversguide- ing. The material is what makes this Entries are only for those paddlers book.co.uk/forum/viewtopic. such a great little paddling magazine. attending the forum. Five categories php?f=4&t=97190 Paul Caffyn with up to three entries per category. For more info, see newsletter 159 with the registration form.

THE SOUNDS’ PILGRIMAGE Saturday 16 February (weekend 15- 17. The assembly point for comic book heroes and heroines for the Sat- urday costume dinner, is at Ratimera Bay, Queen Charlotte Sound a couple of hour’s paddle north of Picton.

ANNUAL OKAINS BAY Canterbury Sea Kayak Network training day 23 - 24 February 2013 Start time: 0930 hrs on the Saturday. KASK Committee 2012 - 2013 Free, apart from camping fees. Bring Ian McKenzie – President email: [email protected] all your paddling gear, a tent or cara- Doug Aitken – Committee email: [email protected] van, gear for camping and cooking. Sandy Ferguson – Webmaster email: [email protected] Paul Caffyn – Publications email: [email protected] Please remember to register so we Conrad Edwards - Committee email: [email protected] know how many are attending. John Hesseling – Committee email: [email protected] Contact Sandy Ferguson: Kay Pigeon - KASK Administrator email: [email protected] [email protected]

4 New Zealand Sea Canoeist Photos below by Ian McKenzie of a recent KASK Canterbury Sea Kayak network paddle

President’s report Feb 2013 by Ian McKenzie

A warm Canterbury summer and pleasant (a relative term) water tem- perature has enticed a few of us to spend more time upside down than usual. As a result, at the end of a paddle last weekend, the whole group was able to roll nonchalantly and then admire the youthful (again, relative) ﬂ exibility required to hand roll and to ﬂ oat beside (and still inside) a kayak.

KASK committee has been quiet over December/January, due large- Above: Daniel Farber keeping an careful eye on rolling practice ly to my work in that period being busier than expected, can’t blame it entirely on the good weather. Hand- book revision and promotion are Owen Shrimpton watching Doug progressing, draft guidance notes/ Aitken bracing with a paddle ﬂ oat checklist for trip leaders has been produced.

A reminder that the Annual General Meeting is looming. It will be held at 5:00 pm on Saturday 9 March at the KASK Forum in Raglan. Anything that you may want noted at the AGM please send to me or to administrator Kay Pidgeon ([email protected]).

Nominations for positions on the committee also please to me or to Kay. You don’t have to be at the forum to be elected to the committee, Little Blue Penguin giving Kevin the eye, seemingly unaffected by the kayak though being at the forum does en- hance your ability to ﬁ nd an excuse not to be elected.

This disappearing month, in the South Island, there is the KASK Marlborough Sounds Pilgrimage and the Canterbury Network annual Okains Bay training weekend. I haven’t caught up with any North Island events however training and trips are on offer after the forum in March.

See you out there Ian McK

5 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013

per minute - 38.51 kg (84.9lbs) All four paddles were take-aparts. TECHNICAL per hour - 2,310.64 kg (5,094lbs) The weights: per 8hr day - 18,485 kg (40,752lbs) Babs 989 gm Storm (Sweden) Is Paddle Weight Important? Paul 960 gm Mike Neckar blades The staggering difference over an by Paul Caffyn Justine 945 gm Lendal crank eight-hour day is 18.485 tonnes (Scotland) To follow on Sandy Winterton’s (18.19 tons!) Freya 744 gm Epic signature wing ‘Courting Speed’ article (newsletter No. 150, p.10, I have updated a Even having the difference by 50%, After trialling the three girls’ pad- newsletter article I wrote way back for the non-lifting hand, supporting dles in the early winter of 2008, in 1998 (n/l No.75) about the signifi - the other end of the paddle, the ener- while training on the Grey River, I cance of paddle weight. A response gy saving in using the lighter paddle went over the ‘Dark Side’ and used from Derek Wakeling to the original was astounding. It is no wonder that Freya’s wing paddle for the entire SE article is also included. it took two days to recover after each East Greenland trip. Not just its light of the 120 mile overnighters during weight, but I found my paddling ef- Recently, I weighed the paddle used the Australian trip! fi ciency was improved. More impor- for the 1982 Round Australia trip and tantly, I was almost able to keep up a lightweight paddle, which I have So bearing this weight factor in mind, with Conrad when he used his take- used in recent years. The Austral- and that I was chasing a younger and apart stick paddle. ian paddle had a laminated wooden extremely fi t Conrad down the West shaft, symmetrical-shaped fi breglass Coast of Greenland, I attempted to I believe your choice of paddle is blades, each of which had a pop- trim even more weight off the light- as important if not more, than your rivetted, aluminium wear strip on the weight paddle. With a new carbon choice and weight of kayak. base basically an old style whitewa- fi bre paddle shaft, I reduced the pad- ter paddle. As the shaft was not long dle length by 5 cms and improvized When you purchase a paddle, bear enough, I had cut it in half and used super-duper lightweight drip rings. in mind the difference in energy re- an aluminium sleeve to increase the quirements between lifting a light overall paddle length. It was strong Although drip rings are not really and heavy paddle. Particularly for and heavy - but coming from a necessary in tropical waters, they longer duration trips, I would sug- white-water paddling background, are essential in colder climes to keep gest the extra dollars required for a not from a racing one, I didn’t know the hands dry and warm. I decided lighter paddle are well justifi ed. any better at the time. that the standard black rubber, drip rings were too heavy and was casting Further Thoughts In 1984 I met kayak builder Mike around the house for an alternative. On Paddle Weight Neckar at a very early Canadian sea And - I feel Sandy Ferguson would by Derek Wakeling kayaking symposium. He was what be proud of me - I found that blue we would call a hard case in New or green plastic milk bottle tops from Paul Caffyn’s article on paddle Zealand; loud and abrasive, a superb one or two litre milk containers were weight in Issue 75 of the KASK paddler and rather good on a dance perfect. newsletter amply demonstrates the fl oor for a big-bellied bloke. Mike importance of using a lightweight was pretty disgusted with photos of The tops have an inner rim or lip (to paddle, but further analysis of the my Australian paddle and as he had prevent leakage), the inside diameter movements involved in paddling been involved with performance of which matched perfectly with a show that the weight distribution be- kayak racing behind the Iron Cur- outside diameter of the paddle shaft. tween the blades and the shaft is even tain. He built me two carbon-fi bre/ A Stanley knife and sandpaper pro- more important than the total weight. kevlar blades with a foam core sand- duced a snug fi t, with the outer lip So this article explains the effect and wich construction. It took a heap of of the bottle top turned obviously importance of both aspects. elbow grease with a hacksaw, fi les towards the blade. The result - a and sandpaper, to fi nish them. Glued lighter, lightweight paddle and drip The motion of paddling essentially into a New Zealand carbon-fi bre/ free hands during the Greenland trip involves moving the ends of the glass shaft, I had what I thought was in icy cold seas. paddle around a central point. The a super-lightweight paddle. centre of gravity of the paddle is in During the summer of 2007 - 2008, the centre of the shaft and this point Aust. paddle - 1.575 kg (3.470lbs) three European ladies and a Liver- does move a bit but nothing like as Light paddle - 0.932 gms (2.055lbs) pool lad paddled around the South much as the blades. The paddler is Island - their choice of paddle varied not actually lifting the weight of the The difference in weight was greatly. In preparation for the 2008 paddle with each stroke because the 0.642kg (1.415lbs). At 60 strokes East Greenland trip, I was able to centre of gravity stays in much the per minute, the extra weight I lifted both weigh and try out the paddles of same place, however total weight per stroke with the Australian paddle Freya, Justine and Babs and compare is important because it is obviously calculates as follows: with my Neckar-blade paddle. more tiring to hold a heavy paddle

6 New Zealand Sea Canoeist out in front of you than a light one. blades feel nice and light and you hardly notice the weights, yet the to- The laws of physics show that much tal weight of the paddle and weights SAFETY more energy is required to change is the same. This might be a good the direction and/or speed (momen- demonstration for a class but if you tum) of a given weight than just try this at home, mind the television Novel Cellphone supporting it. A mathematical anal- or you may prove more than you in- Waterproofi ng ysis of paddle and body movement tended about the energy involved in would be extremely complicated but changes of momentum. Barbara Leslie from the far north the important points are: rang recently and asked if I could So saving the small extra weight of think of a use for condoms by sea - fi rstly a lot of energy is required a smart shaft mechanism in the cen- kayakers. Without prompting from to change the speed and direction, tre of the shaft will have little effect Barabara, I suggested waterproofi ng that is the momentum, of a moving on reducing the unproductive energy a cellphone. And indeed, this was object such as a paddle. used but saving the same weight in mentioned in an article she had read the blades would save a lot of energy recenlty in a local magazine. Barbara - secondly speed is more important during a long paddle. gave me the website and also sought than weight or more correctly mass. permission to reprint the report. (Energy is directly proportional to After all as Paul pointed out in his Kayaking the Kaipara the mass and proportional to the article you move the paddle around by Sheri O’Neil square of the speed, twice the speed 3600 times in each hour of paddling. From Kaipara Lifestyler – four times the energy). In fact you change its momentum, 29 January 2013 that is use energy, every time you As the action of paddling moves the push it up, down, back or forward Friends Craig Neilson from Auck- blades at the ends of the paddle fast- or change its speed, and you do this land and Frederike Koring from er than the shaft, weight in the blades maybe 14,400 time each hour. Of Germany wanted one last summer is more important than weight in the course the more smoothly you pad- excursion before Craig returned to shaft. It is all the changes in direc- dle the less energy you waste by work and Frederike set off for uni- tion and speed of the paddle blades changes of momentum but these fi g- versity in Edinburgh. that soak up the unproductive energy ures are used to make the point. - that is energy that does not contrib- “Kaipara’s history and geography ute to moving the kayak. The nearer the weight saving is to seemed like something to experi- the ends of the paddle, the greater ence, rather than read about,” says This technical stuff is maybe too the amount of energy saved. As Paul Craig, “and we wanted to go some- much to bother about for those who pointed out saving weight in the drip where really remote, but not too far just like to enjoy their paddling but rings is a good idea. Do away with from Auckland.” fortunately it is simpler to under- the drip rings if speed or effi ciency stand by just imagining, or if you is more important than getting wet. The tides of adventure brought them feel like it, actually trying out, a How heavy are blade tip reinforce- and their tightly packed double kay- small experiment. Imagine fi xing a ments and are they necessary for ak to the Kaipara Harbour. 250 gram weight with sticky tape to deep-water paddling? Even a few each blade of your paddle. grams saving is important at the ends “We paddled calm seas from Tinopai of the blades. over to Oneriri, following the coast Then imagine sitting on a chair and south to Motuouihi and Motuouroa going through the motions of pad- This is all a rather long-winded way islands in the Port Albert River dling. You can certainly feel the ef- of pointing out why it is important mouth,” Craig says. “After cross- fect of those weights every time the to have light-weight paddle blades ing to Tapora for lunch we made the paddle blades change direction and but it is worth saying as I would like most perilous part of the crossing the faster you paddle the more ef- to bet that most of the weight differ- through tumultuous high-tide seas. fect those weights have. Then imag- ence between one paddle and anoth- When we arrived at Pouto, a kid on ine removing the weights from the er is in the blade. So we really ought the beach informed us that we’d just blades and fi xing them to the centre to be asking for weights for both the crossed the world’s biggest white of the shaft and again sitting on your shaft and the blades to compare one shark breeding ground!” chair. The paddle now feels much paddle with another. If the answers the same if you keep it still but when are not forthcoming, the best you After camping two nights at Pouto you move it you feel the difference. can do is twist each paddle around to and exploring the area, Craig and As soon as you start paddling the see which feels lightest in the ends. Frederike made an easy trip back to the Tinopai wharf on the low tide. Allan Crabb, Tinopai Volunteer Coastguard, commented on the couple’s journey: “It’s eight miles from

7 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013

Tinopai to Pouto – that’s 16 miles In reality, Lake Te Anau, in glorious return – quite a trip!” New Zealand sun and dead calm, took way longer than we expected with all sorts of Before leaving Tinopai the pair in- Trip Reports photo stops along the way. Susan formed Allan of their destination was learning a new camera and it was and expected return times, and their the perfect day to practise. Arriving plans to keep in touch with friends ‘A Walk In The Park’ at the far end, we unexpectedly had on land via cell phone. “They had Lake Te Anau to George to wash down our boats and gear their phone inside a condom, so they Sound & Return with DoC provided detergent for could use the touchscreen without didymo prevention. getting it wet – bloody brilliant!” Al- by Sandy Winterton lan says. The portage was not over the lawns (see also photos on cover and page1) I had imagined. We spent two hours However, Allan warns that Kaipara unloading and carrying boats and kayaking away from the shore is not For years Susan Cade had wanted to packs over a steep forest trail. Lake for the inexperienced or unprepared. do a trip in the Fiordland National Hankinson was treacle slow and “For a start, you’ve got 9 knots of Park, a trip that involved kayaking, the fi rst hut had been washed away tide rip out there and you’ve got to portaging and tramping from Te by fl oods - or so we thought, until be really fi t to paddle against it.” Anau and George Sound and back. we found it an hour later, just a I had weaselled every time so far, few metres past the point that we A few days after Craig and Fred- drawing on an extensive range of decided it could not be upstream of. erike’s safe return, the Tinopai excuses. However, we had done While Susan scoured the bank for Coastguard had a callout for a Kel- more of my style of holiday on our the hut, I kept a myriad sandfl ies ly’s Bay kayaker who had failed to last few travels, so I foolishly agreed entertained. They had heard we were return home. “We sent three boats to go. on the way and had a good reception out and found him up near Males party organised. We fi nally arrived Island,” Allan says. “He’d come I am no tramper. I do not like at Hankinson hut, just as the late across the river to the Tinopai side walking and when I do go, I suffer southern dusk closed in. One of us for a fi sh, but it’d blown up rough innumerable agonies, complain was in a secretly grumpy mood at and he was too exhausted to make constantly and become clinically our slow progress, as one of my the return trip – and he had no radio depressed. Agreeing to go on schemes had been to get it all over or cell phone.” this trip was the fi rst of a series of with quickly. However, festive mistakes on my part. goodies revived the spirits and we “You need to know your tides and collapsed, exhausted. keep a really good eye on conditions. Susan, however, was looking And as in any boating trip, anywhere, forward to the trip and did her usual On Christmas morning we left our tell someone where you’re going and detailed research, including dusting boats and a load of kit at the hut when you expect to return.” off a trip report on the route by Stan and began tramping. An easy romp Mulvany that she had been guarding along Wapati river lasted all of 500 The web link: for years. m before a three wire bridge. Susan www.kaiparalifestyler.co.nz/Of_In- was out of practice, and edgy, and terest.cfm?NewsID=5685 At noon on Christmas eve 2012, we urgent trembling of the foot wire were underway. We left our car at telegraphed the state of her nerves. Te Anau Downs Lodge - a week’s The section to the next bridge was supervised storage for the price of a more taxing. There was scrambling few hours at a parking meter. We had over rocks and windfall trees to a decent paddle ahead of us - across negotiate. At the second bridge Susan the main lake, up Middle Fiord, adopted a different technique and the then North West Arm, followed by a wires pulsed to a happier rhythm. I portage to Lake Hankinson. Susan thought the track would improve thought we would need to unload our from this point, which proved to boats and carry them with a second be another error of judgement. The trip with our kit in packs. I reckoned sign had said 2 ½ hours, but it took we would be able to drag the laden us a full hour longer to cover the 2.5 boats over the grass between the km to Thompson hut. The track was lakes and plonk right back in. Lake diffi cult as it wove over huge moss- Hankinson is about 5 km long with covered boulders with fallen trees Craig Neilson with well-protected a hut at the far end, but I thought throughout. Boulders were placed cell phone we could make it to the second hut, carefully just far apart enough to let arriving at about 7 pm. These were a foot halfway down before the gap my second and third mistakes. tapered, nipping the boot. Walking

8 New Zealand Sea Canoeist poles were a hindrance and had to be stowed, as hands were needed for clambering over rocks and logs. A brief respite while we paused took a gander at a gaggle of Canada geese going about their business.

Eventually we reached the second hut, left a food pack there for our return and enjoyed a glorious lunch in the sun by a roaring waterfall on the Wapiti River. I thought the afternoon would go better – bad mistake. In fact, this was where it started getting tough.

The trail from Thompson hut up to Henry Pass was almost frightening. I had never done such a track. It follows what in rainy weather would have been torrential watercourses up the steepest possible terrain. Snails smirked as they overtook us. It was so tough I even stopped griping.

The track had been pioneered by Richard Henry, New Zealand’s fi rst great conservationist. I imagined him striding along with the easy lope enough to pitch the tent, and so we call over fi ve nights in the bush. In of a bushman. He’d be wearing a camped. Ecstasy. During the day, such a huge wilderness, this appar- tweed suit and hobnail boots. On his I had been brewing mutinous plans ently tiny amount of vertebrate life back a couple of kakapo in wooden and scheming ways to abort or cur- seemed sad. crates strapped atop his knapsack. tail the expedition, but they needed a He’d be talking to them in a soft bit more time to ferment and timing The track was very well marked, brogue, telling them not to fret and would be critical. with orange arrows sometimes only that they’d soon be in their new 10 metres apart, and it was usually home, and on the fl atter sections “Well, what do sandfl ies eat when possible to see the way ahead easily. he’d be whistling jigs from the old we’re not here?” We realised that We fell for the trap of following country. He’d be looking forward there was no hope of ever answer- some arrows that were pointing to to a fi sh supper when he got to the ing this question, as it was only pos- the side, only to realise the tree they coast and remembering the rock sible to fi nd out by being there to were on, had fallen and they had from which he caught a fat blue cod check, thus defeating the aim of the originally pointed ahead. If we did on his last visit. experiment. Like quantum physics, get off track, it was usually obvious observing what happens changes the within a few metres. Only at a few After the steep stuff there was what outcome, so the mystery remains un- bare rock areas did we have to search appears to be a mercifully fl at sec- solved. Instead, we loitered with in for the route and then we would soon tion on the approaches to Deadwood tent. fi nd a happy orange triangle smiling Lagoon. However we soon wished at us. A great job done by DoC in we were back on a slope because The forest was weirdly bereft of ani- this respect – it was tough enough the ground was a semi-liquid and we mal life. In the whole trip we saw a with good marking but without, it were constantly meeting boggy sec- few wood pigeon, weka and fi nches. would have been a nightmare. tions. Any particular bog could be We heard a handful of kea and tui, an inch deep or knee high, there was shining and long tailed cuckoo. One Within 100m of getting underway no way to tell. The planks of death lonesome tomtit and a couple of next morning, the trail crossed the was a series of 40 some decompos- fantails visited us. We saw plenty river but the marked route was too ing split tree trunks laid decades ago of tracks made by deer, pig, pos- dangerous to climb down, on slippery over particularly deep bogs that test- sum and stoat but saw nary a land rock, so we waded thigh deep to start ed our balance and nerves. We were beast. Trout there were aplenty, and the day. The level ground didn’t last getting tired, and beginning to make according to the hut books, easy to – before long we were scrambling mistakes. Susan, in a lucid moment, catch. I’d assumed there would be almost vertically up a dank gulley noticed a spot that was level and dry kiwi, but we did not hear a single which led to Henry Pass. As altitude

9 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013

Susan Cade on Lake Te Anau on a magic morning, heading for North West Arm and the start of the portage through to Lake Hankinson. Photo: Sandy Winterton increased, bush turned to scrub with a labyrinth, an assault course and a and shredded, lay jumbled along different species predominating. greasy pole. Next, a fl atter section with the smashed rock. The older Underfoot were only roots and rock, where we left the tent and a load slips were greener, but steeper and just damp enough to keep everything of kit to lighten our loads. A wise harder to negotiate, and the track good and slippery. As we approached move, suggested by tramp mother. climbed many times to get above the saddle, clouds scudded through We hung a bag of food so that no diffi cult ground. At several points from the coast and at the very top a pests could get at it and carried on. I there had been recent windfalls pristine white moth welcomed us to had thought Fiordland had not been meaning big detours, tricky climbs its domain. penetrated by possums but we heard through prostrate branches or one on the roof of Hankinson hut and balancing along a fallen trunk. We had a brief stop by the tarns on saw their prints in the mud. the saddle and examined the fl owers. Leaving the lake, instead of Mountain Daisy and other fl owers A section of track criss-crossing sauntering down the leafy river were interspersed with the yellow a beautiful creek, another steep bank, we inexplicably had another blooms of Maori Onion. We raised downhill and we spied below us gruelling climb high up over angular a mental toast to the good Richard Lake Katherine – last milestone mossy boulders strewn haphazardly, Henry himself. The pass is at 830 on our route. As we descended, we and the last leg took another age to metres. Susan was thinking, ‘It will had good views of the surrounding complete. The track had been made be brilliant to fi nally get through to terrain. It was unbelievably steep, by a madman with a broken compass the George Sound’. I am thinking, scarred by landslides, with hanging and seemed to wander at random. ‘If we were daft enough to go valleys and craggy tops towering By now I had fi nally worked out that down to sea level, there would be more than a vertical kilometre above every steep slope was actually a slip 830 metres to climb back up’. My us. The forest on the opposite bank in some stage of self repair in what carefully presented bait to Susan to of the lake was in places tinged is an endless cycle. The fi rst lake we suggest that reaching the pass was a darker by the southern rata, their red skirted, with so much hardship, had great achievement and that now we fl owers in full bloom. been a mature forest growing from should turn back was completely the boulder fi elds of ancient slips and disregarded. She has wanted to do Surely now we would just potter that’s why the going was so tough. I this trip for years and her earlier round the lake’s edge then stroll was learning the hard way. attempt had been thwarted. The lady down the stream to the sound. This was not for turning. On we went. track had a way of shattering every We crossed the Katherine River dream. The potter took three hours to at last and headed through a fi nal The next section crossed the bare cover a couple of kilometres. There section of bush until we could see rock of the saddle then the track were several huge slips, the newest the welcome sight of the George dived down an extraordinarily steep still harsh and bare, with the fi rst Sound hut and the gleam of the salt gulley which we christened Henry’s tiny ferns just beginning to grow in water that had been our goal. We had Crevice. It combined the features of cracks. Huge beech trees, tumbled made it to the West Coast.

10 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

The hut was bliss. My feet, wet for tent, sounding like light rain. In the which did a good impersonation of almost 12 hours, looked like albino morning the noise was still there, but a stick when it thought it was being prunes and enjoyed their freedom, this time it was drizzle. watched. It became known as the oblivious that they were only on haterpillar, and was treated with parole. We perfected techniques to The journey back was just as hard, the sort of care a seasoned mariner keep sandfl ies out and lazed away with bodies showing a few signs of deserves, photographed in detail, a day in recuperation. The hut book wear but holding up well. We used and set free to frolick among the indicated that it gets a fair bit of walking poles on the planks of death vegetation of Te Anau Downs. use. People mainly arrive by boat this time, which was a great help, and fl oatplane and it is the most particularly now that surfaces were After seven days away, we got back frequented of the huts. It had some wet and even more slippery. We had into Te Anau on the evening of 30 fi shing gear and a library of books. a break at Thompson hut and lit a December and treated ourselves to a Susan gathered mussels which were fi re which warmed the bodies and cabin for the night. a tasty entrée to our evening cook rekindled our spirits. up of home dehydrated beef curry. It One of the fun things had been would have been nice to have stayed In Fiordland terms, it had been so dry reading the entries in the hut books. another day, but we had already had since we’d passed through, that the Many of them were from hunters. a Fiordland record of four successive level of Lake Thompson had dropped The area is home to wapiti – huge elk dry days. Heavy rain would have over two metres, and instead of the so sought after that there is a ballot to made much of the track dangerous or arduous track, we walked through allocate the limited hunting permits. impassable, so we loaded up again, mud and water round the lake’s edge Someone had made it all the way glad of reduced pack weights. Was for a good way. A big brown eel as from George Sound to Thompson knowing what was in store for us fat as a farmer’s forearm thought the hut in one go and had written, ‘10 was a good thing? We weren’t sure. toe of my boot was the head of its hours - not bad for a couple of old long lost cousin and was very keen codgers with artifi cial hips’. Not bad My strategy was to be positive, on making further acquaintance. indeed – it took us half as long again put one foot in front of the other We discovered that eels can swim and we camped part way. One party and imagine that it was easy - and backwards, but not as gracefully as had lost their EPIRB, and left an it worked. We got back to the tent, they would probably like. address for anyone fi nding to send it packed it and the other gear, then to. Remarkably, the next party found carried on. The fi nal sections passed mercifully it and said they’d post it on. Another quickly and at last we spied group had been at George Sound On the way back, we paused at Hankinson hut. Within an hour hut when an earthquake struck and different places; a postcard waterfall of getting there, the rain came on aftershocks continued for three on the Katherine Creek, an ancient properly. And how. With gale force hours. We thought of the tremendous landslip where the only thing that winds, it lashed so hard all evening new slip nearby at Lake Katherine fl ourished was lichen with old cairns we wondered if we’d be able to and wondered what if… so encrusted they looked like weird fi nish the journey the following day. sea creatures, a bog where all the Few people, it seemed, did the track trees had mysteriously died, a stream But we had luck on our side. The both ways – most got transport to of bright orange ooze, whereas all rain and wind eased. We paddled or from George Sound. For non others were clean and weed free. Lake Hankinson, did the portage kayakers it’s possible to omit the At Henry Saddle, a helicopter was more effi ciently and had a tailwind paddling altogether by getting a water exploring the ridgelines and we down Middle Fiord. As we emerged taxi from Te Anau, and a second one waved a cheery greeting. Deadwood into the main lake, we had half metre across Lake Hankinson, and yet Lagoon was named for the ancient waves from astern and now similar even this reasonably accessible hut tree stumps poking out of the water, ones coming from right angles which had only had 12 parties logged over each of which had a decorative had some interesting effects on the the past year. Henry Saddle near the bonnet of colonising plants. Rugged boats. Later we heard that section of midpoint of the journey would not Burn, the stream that runs into the lake is notoriously diffi cult in wind. play host to many visitors. We saw lagoon was crystal clear and the not a soul in seven days away, in water delicious. Over aeons, it has We were almost home when Susan peak season. Someone who’d been deposited masses of dead tree limbs noticed a movement on the edge of holed up for a few days waiting for to one area. They are barkless and her hat. A caterpillar had stowed away a break in the weather wrote that smooth, tumbled and washed by during the portage and for 20 km he’d rather be eating a ‘Miles Better’ the waters, and look like a pile of across the lake, it had been endlessly pie in Te Anau. On the strength of discarded antlers. circling the brim. This was not your this recommendation, we found the everyday caterpillar that crept along shop and sampled their wares. Best We used our previous campsite on its belly, but a handsome brown pie ever. If you’re ever south of once again, and dozed off to the one that progressed by looping itself Blenheim, it’s worth the detour. rustle of a squillion sandfl ies on the into a high and graceful arch, and

11 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013

The tramp from Hankinson hut We were very lucky with weather. equipped group trip, the ﬁ rst two or to George Sound had taken us 18 A couple of days later Fiordland three EPIRBs set off failed entirely hours, and about 20 hours to get got almost half a metre of rain over to function. It makes yer think. back, which we’d done over two three days. I recalled a recent trip days for each direction with a day off report I read in a magazine where, Sandy Winterton between. Either side of the tramping after a serious incident during a well 16 January 2013 was a paddle-portage-paddle of 25 km, ½ km and 5 km. The rating table below reﬂ ects only how Sandy viewed this superb Fiordland wilderness trip, with a mix of paddling, The best thing about the trip? From portaging and tramping. Susan’s perspective, a long held desire assuaged and a week in the Trip assessment. Maximum score = 5 paddles wilderness. From my point of view George Sound kayak and Tramping Track the best points were that I learned a lot about tramping in a short time, rating and I would never have to do this Wilderness experience track again.

This is not a trip to be taken lightly. Physical work out While I am a tramping duffer, Susan is very experienced at this level, and Story telling potential her impressive bushmanship was necessary. Enjoyment

Prestigious Freya Pose Photo Competition

In view of a number of late entries for the Freya pose competition, and a plea from Evan Pugh to extend the deadline for judging the competition at the Raglan Forum, entries for this prestigious competition will be accepted till the end of February. To ensure no gender or bribing allegations, judging will now take place via paddler acclaim at the KASK Fo- rum. Entries will be presented in a ‘brief’ Power point presentation. This will follow serious discussion as to whether the winner should be the paddler posing, or the photographer. See also the colour photo on page 2.

The stunning physique of South- Christchurch paddled Jillian Wilson Dressed for winter conditions in the land paddler Stanley Mulvany - Mr before her regular Wednesday morn- highlands of Scotland, ex-patriate Cardiovascular System on Legs. ing paddle. Kiwi paddler Fiona Dalzell. Photo: Belinda Mulvany Photo: Marie Cooke Photo: no one dobbed in

12 New Zealand Sea Canoeist Overseas Reports

West Island Bits January 2013 by Dave Winkworth

Derek Hutchinson Since my last ‘West Island Bits’ the sea kayaking community lost Derek Hutchinson. I didn’t get to meet him but his infl uence touched me in my paddling and skill development. I have a few of his books on my shelf, which I fl ip through occasionally, Rear (aft) hatch offset for ease of stowing the spare paddle sometimes shaking my head at a crazy rescue technique detailed in Whatever, it’s a great idea that works. have to be the most famous photo in the books. Perhaps the techniques If you’re making a new kayak mold, Australian sea kayaking! (see p.14) weren’t crazy when the books were give consideration to the offset rear written though - I don’t know. hatch. There’s a lesson here for committee members setting timetables for I must say I wasn’t a fan of Derek’s Thank you for being a sea kayaker AGM weekends: All sea kayaking kayak designs – they all seemed to Derek. clubs and groups, that I belong to, weathercock ferociously for me have only one meeting per year - the but he did have some great ideas. Sea Kayaker Gatherings AGM - for members to raise issues. His recessed deck fi ttings are just The Victorian Sea Kayak Club AGM Plenty of time should be set aside for bulletproof. Being molded into the Weekend was held in November at those members to debate and discuss deck during kayak construction, if a function centre on Phillip Island, issues without the catering staff the laminate is good then they just to the east of Melbourne - a lovely calling everyone to dinner. Often the do not break! That’s unlike some of sunny weekend and well attended as standard hour allotted for the AGM the fl imsy bolt-through fi ttings we usual. Something different was that is just not enough time! If members see around today. all the evening presentations were get bored at a long drawn out from club members. Why bring in meeting they can leave for a coffee I confess to copying another of an outsider when club members are but they shouldn’t be pressuring Derek’s kayak innovations – the doing some fantastic trips? We saw other members interested in an issue offset rear hatch. I saw this feature fi rst class presentations of paddling to wind up their discussion. many years ago on one of his in the Whitsunday Islands and boats with a pair of spare paddles remote Pacifi c Islands and a standout This year the VSKC AGM will be on strapped diagonally beside it. What show from a female kayaking novice the Gippsland Lakes in November. a great idea! No need to remove who got stuck in and went with The Victorian Club AGM is slowly spare paddles to access the rear the experienced members. I think moving east away from Melbourne hatch compartment! And don’t get she learnt a lot but she’s ready for and fi ts with my campaign to get it me started on the overseas trend another trip now! to Mallacoota near the VIC/NSW to strapping spare paddles to the border! Members will travel if an foredeck! The actual AGM was a long affair, event is well advertised and well run. running right to dinner-time, with all I molded an offset rear hatch to my founding members of the club being Speaking of events, I’m running Nadgee kayaks with accompanying awarded honorary life membership. my 4th annual ‘Winky’s Weekend’ spare paddles and it works like a for the Victorian club this weekend. dream. I’ve also added individual Founding member Steve Weston Essentially it’s a moveable feast – a quick releases for each half of the recently sent me a heap of slides social weekend with catered camp splits(see photo above). to scan for him. One of them was oven cookery on one or other of our of club founding president Earle nice coastal estuaries. We usually Now, why hasn’t this hatch offset Bloomfi eld leaping off a big wave get around 45 people attending. This idea been copied by any of the big at Flinders Island. Snapped by Steve year we’ll have a GPS Navigation sea kayak manufacturers? Is there Tremont in 1982, it’s a little out of Challenge at the weekend. The aim is something about sea kayakers focus but you can clearly see that the to get members out there on the water abhorring a lack of symmetry? Nordkapp is airborne! That would playing with their GPS units and

13 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013

Andrew McAuley. Now, at this time, Andrew’s trip ideas were a germinating seed! Paul spoke of paddling around Alaska and his around Australia trip. At the end of his talk he called for questions from the ﬂ oor. Quick as a ﬂ ash Andrew’s hand was up: “Paul, what is your view on using sails?” enquired Andrew. There was dead silence. I thought: “Oh oh, wrong question to ask mate!” But Paul responded quickly, “That is a four letter word! Wash your mouth out! Next question.”

Speaking of sails, a number of trip leaders over here, that is, trip leaders leading signiﬁ cant paddles like Bass Strait for example, specify that all paddlers will have sails on their kayaks. I wonder how that sits with Kiwi paddlers. Is that appearing in NZ?

Their reasoning is that the sails can help keep the group together, especially when there is a wide gap in the speed and stamina of all trip participants…. and a body of water like Bass Strait is not a good place to stuck in bad weather!

Another Around Aussie Attempt They’re all having a go at it now! Blue Mountains ski guide and Earle Bloomfi eld leaping off a big wave at Flinders Island, instructor Jason Beachcroft departed in Bass Strait, in 1982. Photo: Steve Tremont Watsons Bay in Sydney Harbour on trying to fi nd multiple checkpoints It’s an impressive publication. They 12 January for an around Australia around Twofold Bay. A few prizes also have Sydney-based kayaking paddling attempt. Paddling a Nadgee and a trophy will hopefully tempt all retailer Expedition Kayaks offering (which pleases me), Jason is going attendees to have a go! Goodness, a nice paddle as a prize for the best unassisted AND without a sail! the Yanks spent billions putting the magazine contribution each issue. What makes his attempt just a little GPS satellites up there – we might as Expect some good stuff to appear different is that he hopes to cross Bass well have some fun with them! Next I’d say! I wonder when the NZ Sea Strait and paddle around Tasmania year, map reading will a big part of Canoeist editor will match that! too. If he makes it, he will be the fi rst the Challenge. I’ll let you know how to do the full circumnavigation of Oz it all goes. Legends of Sea Kayaking (poor little Tassie often misses out!) Back in the mid 90s kayak instructor The NSWSKC AGM for 2013 will and retailer, the late Wayne You can follow Jason’s attempt at: be at Port Stephens (north of Sydney) Langmaid, organized a one-day www.jasonbeachcroft.com on the weekend after the KASK series of talks by Aussie paddler and Forum. Guests are Nigel Foster (who kayak designer Larry Gray and… Further afi eld: Sandy Robson is will be familiar to KASK members) wait for it…Paul Caffyn. The day paddling the coast of India at the and Les Allen from WA. was held at the Ettalong RSL Club moment. ‘Still a very long way for so it wasn’t your average shorts and her to go. She loves getting emails Incidentally, the NSWSKC has fl ip fl ops affair. and notes of encouragement so tap changed the name of its magazine out the occasional note for her. She’d to Salt. The new editor, Mark Anyway, I attended, and sat in love to hear from you all. Schroeder, has set bar pretty high. the audience next to the late

14 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

PFD Development fi t and for taller people that means clips etc., but it keeps me off the Please meet Henry Freeman. Henry that the waist-strap becomes a chest streets! was a lifeboat rower on the English strap. So, I lengthened all the straps, coast in the early 1900s. Remember added ladderlock buckles and it’s Enjoy your paddling, and hope to see that all the lifeboats then were rowed now pretty good – the waist strap you all at Raglan. - no outboards, no radios - and is actually a waist strap - and locks for most lifeboat crew, no PFDs. below my ribs if I infl ate it, instead David Winkworth The bulky cork PFD that Henry of riding over my head. is wearing in the photograph was experimental at that time. I removed the C02 cylinder paraphernalia (now mouth infl ation His crew was often called out to only), which made it really compact rescue boats in distress. With one and light. All this is probably occasion of particularly bad weather, technically illegal so I’m not his crew towed fi ve boats to safety. advising anyone to do likewise! I They returned to sea to attempt the also stitched the back of the collar rescue of another boat. All the rowers shut so that when I infl ate it, the only were issued with the cork PFDs but air chambers are on my chest. sadly, all the crew except Henry took them off because they chafed badly. The big test was in the pool at one The entire lifeboat crew, with the of our rolling nights – it worked! exception Henry, perished at sea on Enough fl otation for me to fl oat that rescue attempt. face-up and not bulky enough to stop me swimming or climbing onto Lessons for us from this? Hmmm, we my kayak deck! (see photo). My Above: Dave with his modifi ed can see how far PFD design has come in conventional foam-fi lled PFD, by infl atable PFD. 100 years but they do have to be worn! comparison fl oated me face-down. Uncomfortable PFDs are bad news, Below: Henry Freeman with his especially for paddlers, as we need So, it’s a work in progress - some to be able to PERFORM (ie. paddle pockets to put on the front, a few cork lifejacket. Reproduced with for long periods) to keep ourselves permission from the RNLI. safe. I’ll cover a few ‘performance’ requirements in the next WIB.

PFD Tinkering Do you like to tinker? I do. There’s always something going on in my shed, that’s for sure. I’ve just made a humungous ice chest for base camps and my new kayak design is progressing well. An ongoing project of mine is making sense of inﬂ atable PFDs! Over here, PFDs are compulsory in all small boats so there are heaps of designs on the market - and cheap too!

I have an infl atable PFD, which I take on tropical trips. It’s too hot to wear a conventional PFD up there so I have an infl atable one, which stows easily in the cockpit. In remote northern Australian waters, if you come out of your kayak and can’t get back in, you’re likely to be eaten before help arrives so a PFD just helps the cavalry fi nd your body.

Anyway, these inﬂ atable PFDs are dead-set the most uncomfortable things to wear. They are all multi-

15 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013 OVERSEAS REPORTS

Murderous Thoughts on a Very Small Island by Malcolm Gunn

At around 3am, just as the ﬁ rst light was seeping into the south-east corner of the Alaskan sky, there was a murder outside our tent. While this came as no surprise to us, it was inconvenient, as it soon became apparent that there would be no more sleep that night.

The previous day we had arrived at The New Eddystone Rock by sea kayaks after a long wet haul from Alava Point, grateful for a tail wind.

The rock is an improbable column of basalt that has somehow defi ed the glaciations that sculpted Alaska’s Misty Fiords National Monument, and now stands alone in the middle of Behm Canal. It had beckoned us for most of the day, in the same way that it beckoned George Vancouver in 1793. He described it as, ‘a rock much resembling a ship under sail’ and named it after the lighthouse that presides over the entrance to The very small island, The New Eddystone Rock. Photo: Malcom Gunn Portsmith Harbour. nervous disposition and would panic are highly social birds, and that Being a little over 70 metres high for no apparent reason, disappearing means a lot of communication, and and about 15 metres in diameter at in a fl urry of spray. Orcas hunt as the number of birds increased, the base, it’s my guess that the crew in packs for these seals, and they that meant they all had to shout, of the lower decks had another name always seem to be anticipating an “caw!” They eventually settled for it, invoking phallic imagery. At attack. around midnight - about an hour high tide the island at the base of the after dark, and the short night was rock is reduced to a small fringe of We hurried to pitch our tent and set punctuated by skirmishes – as if they rough grass and driftwood and it was up a fl y to collect drinking water were all sharing the same, slighlty here we decided to camp, for as well from the rain. With dry clothes and inadequate, duvet. as having plenty of novelty appeal as a hot drink, the place soon felt like a camp site, it was free of bears. home. In the pale blue/grey of the pre-dawn, when decent folk (and birds) are A couple of long gravel spits curve Then the crows started arriving. The asleep, the fi rst task of the day for away from the base of the rock at vertical sides of the rock are cloaked a crow is to be re-establish its social low tide. As we arrived, a few dozen in trees sustained by rainfall rather standing within its community, greet Kittiwakes were hunkered down on than soil. These, evidently are ideal neighours, re-kindle disputes and one of the spits, facing into the rain places for crows to roost. As the day generally wake the entire sleeping squalls that were marching up the drew to a close, more and more world. canal from the south-west. Harbour crows fl ew in across the water and seals watched us from the bay prospects for a good nights sleep Just why a collection of crows should between the gravel spits. They had a started looking bleak. For crows be called a murder had always been

16 New Zealand Sea Canoeist a mystery to me, but at 3am, the We headed across to the shores of association between murder and Revilligigedo Island where we saw OVERSEAS crows could not have been clearer a lone wolf patrolling the shoreline. in my mind. This small epiphany Wet through after the rain and in REPORTS came to me accompanied with a new its summer coat, it looked lean appreciation for sayings like, ‘stone and ragged, but retained an air of the crows’ and a new empathy for confi dence - showing no fear, just the inventor of the scarecrow. measured curiosity. Paddling the Whitsundays by Paul Hayward George Vancouver had breakfast on When the cruise ships departed, our little beach 214 years earlier, the tourist activity would cease and Rats! Don’t go to the Whitsundays almost to the day. His account doesn’t then things would be pretty much without a solution for the little mention crows, which is enough to as they were in Vancouver’s day; darlings… and water. Solve those tell me he didn’t try to sleep there. Admittedly the Tlingit Indians were two and you’ve got a lovely mid- John Sykes, a midshipman turned gone and where Vancouver found the winter kayak destination, just over artist who had joined the Royal navy rock to be ‘standing perpetually on a the horizon in the West Island. at the age of 10, produced a fi ne surface of fi ne, dark coloured sand’, image of the occasion. It shows no we found coarse gravel and boulders. We fl ew over last August – to fewer than 10 birds fl ying around its But across the canal, the crescent celebrate a signifi cant birthday (one summit but it’s hard to tell whether shaped intertidal rock walls of the of those mixed-blessing birthdays, they are crows. Tlingit fi sh traps were still intact and greatly improved by sun & sand) the salmon, bears and eagles went and spent 10 days paddling some Vancouver met three canoes of about their business as ever. beautiful warm waters. Turtles, Tlingit Indians here, and found them whales, coral reef snorkeling, to be of, ‘utmost good humour’. The crows especially seemed to stunning beaches and mountainous We met nobody, but several fl oat be unaffected by the presence or green islands – all the best bits of plane loads of tourists circled the absence of mankind. They have a South Pacifi c idyll – without any rock as they fl ew between the cruise their own routines and are unmoved Dictators, dubious airlines or kava. ship terminal at Ketchikan and the by our own diurnal rhythms. Good massive granite walls of Rudyerd for them. After all, the essence of Campsites abound in the Whitsunday Bay that are the main attraction of wilderness travel is fi tting in to an Island group – an extended Misty Fiords National Monument. unfamiliar and unaccommodating archipelago of about 100 islands environment. stretching some 100 km. While Next day a heavy wet chill had you cou ld free-camp, we thought replaced the windy squalls. Rafts Malcolm Gunn it better to respect the Marine Park of murrelets and auklets drifted past environment by spending the $5 with the tide as the resident bald The New Eddystone Rock is in each a night with the local DoC eagles launched themselves from the middle of Behm Canal, which equivalent – the Qld Marine Parks their nest at the top of the rock and separates Revillagigedo Island from people. They maintain 40-odd small headed across the canal to check the mainland near the southern campsites on about 20 of the islands out progress on the salmon run that extremity of Alaska. The nearest port – Whitsunday Island alone has eight. was poised to start. Dark clouds is Ketchikan which can be reached Most have excellent picnic tables of salmon were milling around at by the ferries of the Alaska Marine and fl at shaded camping areas – the the entrance of every creek and the State Highway system. sun is hot. Reasonably nice dunnies occasional fi sh would skitter through – some even have a roof ! the shallows, dorsal fi ns exposed. The area is protected as Misty Fiords National Monument and kayak Five years ago, when I fi rst looked Tourist planes fl ew confi dently in rentals and water taxis are available at doing this trip, a few of the island and out of the murk that hid a low from Ketchikan. Paddling to Behm campsites had rainwater tanks. No mountain pass connecting Behm Canal from Ketchikan takes a couple more. Never found out why – but Canal with Tongass Narrows and its of days and involves rounding Alava they are all gone and you have three port of Ketchikan. Large catamarans Point which has a reputation for choices for water. Carry it with you, also brought the more budget severe weather and sea conditions get Scamper to bring you some, or beg minded tourists on day trips, and the from the southeast. / buy some from a resort island or a big silver vessels would slow as they yacht. Keep in mind that it also costs passed the New Eddystone Rock a them to get it (or make it) – and you couple of hundred metres off, so the can approach the negotiations politely. tour guide could give a commentary through a PA system. We took the Queen of the seas, our folding Feathercraft K2, because it looks after us. Flew into Brisbane,

17 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013

We took our VHFs and listened eagerly to the daily scheduled weather broadcasts – put out by the yacht-hire companies for all their ducklings. Moorings for yachts are in most of the bays, as nobody wants boats to drop anchor and damage the coral reef zones. There are lots yachts about – but there never seem to be more than a couple in sight – it’s easy to ignore them.

The goannas are seriously large beasts – but pretty gun-shy. The crows are cheeky as hell and will rip into anything going – think keas/ wekas and you’ll be on the right track. Rats were in too many of the campsites. With a hard-shell boat, you’d be OK. With a fabric hull, we had to be careful. We were glad we’d taken our two polycarbonate bear-proof cans from the Alaska trip – they frustrated the little beggars.

Crocs don’t visit the off-shore rented a car and drove north – of a rugged local red – just to stretch islands and we had zero intention exploring Queensland and glad of the water out a bit. of experimenting with the mainland the fl exibility it gave us. Left the campsites. Jellyfi sh are 98% car at Airlie and launched off for the Tides are important here. Some few seasonal and aren’t a major worry if islands just a few km off shore. Good pinch-points are getting toward the you go at the right time of the year. grocer in Airlie and Dave Winkworth French Pass level of excitement and Winds should be 0-15 knots most of had been most helpful with some deserve all your respect. Work with the time and stronger winds seem postal BackCountry. them and you can fl y. Luckily, the well-forecast. Take good hats, lots distances don’t need to be great. We of sunscreen and some insect dope – We launched the K2 with her heaviest had some great days paddling for an you’ll have a fi ne time. load ever – water-heavy. We had two hour or two - to a new campsite - and big MSR bags, one medium Ortlieb then playing in the warm & scenic Lessons learned: and 2 el-cheapo Chinese specials water. We also threw in a couple of (a) Having your own boat is always from FCO (basically solar-showers long days – to reposition up to the good, but you could do worse than without the tube). Note to self - water top of Hook Island, where there is rent from the locals in Shute Har- from the better bags tastes nicer. We some extra fi ne snorkeling. Work the bour: Salty Dog Kayaks. also managed to carry several casks weather and the tides. (b) Scamper runs a water-taxi service that will pick up / drop off Paul and Natasha on the water after a pre-dawn start. kayakers. They also ferry grocer- ies and water out to the campsites. Best to reach them by VHF (yours or a yacht’s) – we didn’t need their services, but it was comforting to know that they were there.

(c) Water is gold. We didn’t count on being able to do this, but we sweet- talked about 10 litres at one of the boat rental wharfs in Hamilton Is- land’s marina. You could probably do the same – or buy some bottled water. Cask wine was also easy to purchase at Hamilton – about 50 m from where we tied up.

18 New Zealand Sea Canoeist BOOKS

New Books and Guides to Paddling in Australian Waters by Paul Caffyn New Books Fiordland and Beyond Max Grant has advised that his book on the South Island circumnavigation, that he and daughter Melz achieved, is very close to being published. Titled Fiordland and Beyond, (d) Just because it’s warm doesn’t Paul Hayward and Natasha Romoff A Circumnavigation of the South mean the days are long. It’s still will ﬂ esh out this rather sketchy Island of New Zealand by Kayak, mid-winter. Sun-up at 6 am and tale in March, at KASK Raglan the book will include 167 full col- sunset (speedily) at 6 pm, saw us – so bring questions or drop Paul our photos and 15 maps. Max kept having the giggles at lights-out by an email if you need further info: newsletter readers well informed re 18:30. Caught up some sleep! [email protected] their progress around the South Is- land, and via his website but it will be rather good to see the narrative fully illustrated with colour photos. No details on price yet, but we may see copies at the KASK forum.

------Title: Encounters From a Kayak Sub Title: Native People, Sacred Places, and Hungry Polar Bears Author: Nigel Foster Published: 2012 Publisher: Falcon Guides Contents: 256 pp, index, sources, colour pics throughout Cover: softcover Size: 152 x 229 mm ISBN: 978-0-7627-8106-5

Nigel Foster has a new title in print, which is a collection of 39 articles previously published in various paddling magazines. The articles are grouped into sections, Creatures,

19 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013

This is as well illustrated handbook to all aspects of touring in Queens- land waters, with chapters on Equip- ment, Getting Started, Staying out of Trouble, Touring and a fi nal 60 page chapter on ‘Classic Queens- land Tours.’ Areas to paddle include Moreton Bay (near Brisbane), Fraser Island, Keppel Bay, Whitsundays, Hinchinbrook Island and The Dain- tree Coast (north of Port Douglas). A central colour plate section has detailed maps for each area, showing campsites and some superb photos. Contact details are listed for national park permits, transport and guides etc. Side bars on the nasty creatures Title: Kayaking Around Australia on shore and at sea, along with ex- Author: Andrew Gregory cellent fi gures and black and white Published: 2011 People, Places and Flotsam and photos, topped up with a full index, Publisher: Explore Australia Jetsam. A two page map shows the make this a superb guide. Website:www.exploreaustralia.net.au location of the areas paddled. One ------Contents: 375 pp, colour photos and or two colour photos per article and Title: The Canoe and Kayak Guide maps, glossary and index occasional side bars on places or his- to Western Australia Cover: softcover tory add to the appeal of this book. Author: Martin Chambers Size: 190 x 230 mm Published: 2012 2nd edition ISBN: 978-1741-173420 Australian Paddling Guides Publisher: author As more and more Kiwi paddlers are Website:www.martinchambers.id.au This beautifully illustrated book is heading across the ditch to experi- Contents: 132 pp, colour plate sec- not a ‘how to paddle around Aussie’ ence paddling in tropical climes, I tion, maps and b/w pics guide, but on a state-by-state basis, have listed some of the most recent Cover: softcover lists places to visit and explore by and up to date paddling guides Size: 145 x 206 mm kayak. A detailed map accompa- ISBN: 978-0-9758388-9-1 nies each area guide, along with a Title: An Introduction to Sea Kayak- ‘Considerations’ listing of tours/ ing in Queensland Over 20 paddling trips are described, hire, camping, seasons, access, fi sh- Author: Gerard Effeney with location maps, for trips on the ing, tips and other things to do. The Published: 2003 2nd Edition ocean, rivers and lakes of WA, from double column text works well and Publisher: Gecko Books, Queensland Esperance in the south, to Exmouth the photos are superb, capturing the Website: www.geckobooks.com.au in the north. Each trip has a brief ta- beauty of the Aussie coast. A tad too Contents: 154 pp, maps, photos, index ble listing trip type, length, features heavy to carry in the kayak, but for Cover: softcover and maps. planning a paddling trip over the Size: 15 x 21 mm ditch, this books is a corker for try- ISBN: 0-9751319-0-7 ing to choose where to visit. ------Book Queries For any queries re sourcing titles or availability, please email me at: [email protected]

Books for Sale In a listing of new and secondhand paddling titles, I have over 40 books available. Email for viewing.

Past KASK Newsletters Available Hard copies of most newsletters are still available - swap for stamps. On the KASK website, PDF copies of newsletters back to the dark ages can be downloaded.

20 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

So I said, “Then I’d like to phone a on the other side of the old pilot and HUMOUR friend.” asked, “Are you a real pilot?” And that’s when the fi ght started… He replied, “I always thought I was, HOW THE FIGHT STARTED but I just found out I’m a lesbian.” 4. Rear End Collision 1. Old Age Pension Application I rear-ended a car this morning . . . Annual Darwin Awards Winner After I retired, I went to the Work the start of a REALLY bad day. [Arkansas Democrat Gazette] and Income offi ce to apply for the When the driver got out of the other Two local black men were injured old age pension. The woman behind car, I saw he was a dwarf. when their pickup truck left the road the counter asked me for my driver’s He looked up at me and said, “I am and struck a tree near Cotton Plant license to verify my age. I looked in NOT Happy!” on State Highway 38 early Monday. my pockets and realized I had left my So I said, “Well, which one ARE you Woodruff County deputy Dovey wallet at home. I told the woman that then?” Snyder reported the accident shortly I was very sorry, but I would have And that’s when the fi ght started… after midnight Monday. Thurston to go home and come back later. The Poole, 33, of Des Arc, and Billy woman said, “Unbutton your shirt.” Breast-feeding Ray Wallis, 38, of Little Rock, were So I opened my shirt, revealing my A man was riding a bus, minding his returning to Des Arc after a frog- curly silver chest hair. own business, when the gorgeous catching trip. On an overcast Sunday She said, “That silver hair on your woman next to him started to breast- night, Poole’s pickup truck head- chest is proof enough for me,” and feed her baby. The baby wouldn’t lights malfunctioned. she processed my pension applica- take it, so she said, “Come on, eat tion. it all up or I’ll have to give it to this The two men concluded that the When I got home, I excitedly told nice man here.” headlight fuse on the older-model my wife about my experience at the Five minutes later, the baby was still truck had burned out. As a replace- WINZ offi ce. not feeding, so she said, “Come on ment fuse was not available, Wallis She said, “You should have dropped honey. Take it or I’ll give it to this noticed that the .22 calibre bullets your pants. You might have gotten nice man here. “A few minutes later, from his pistol fi t perfectly into the disability, too.” the anxious man blurted out, “Come fuse box next to the steering-wheel And that’s when the fi ght started… on, kid. Make up your mind! I was column. Upon inserting the bullet supposed to get off four stops ago!” the headlights again began to oper- 2. Early Morning Fishing ate properly, and the two men pro- Saturday morning I got up before Old Pilot ceeded on eastbound toward the dawn, quietly dressed, made my An old Marine Pilot sat down at White River Bridge. After travelling lunch, and slipped quietly into the the Starbucks, still wearing his old approximately 20 miles, and just be- garage. I hooked the boat up to the USMC fl ight suit and leather jacket fore crossing the river, the bullet ap- van and proceeded to back out into and ordered a cup of coffee. As he parently overheated, discharged and a torrential downpour. The wind was sat sipping his coffee, a young wom- struck Poole in the testicles. blowing 50 mph, so I pulled back an sat down next to him. She turned into the garage, turned on the ra- to the pilot and asked, “Are you a The vehicle swerved sharply right, dio, and discovered that the weather real pilot?” exited the pavement, and struck a would be bad all day. tree. Poole suffered only minor cuts I went back into the house, quietly He replied, “Well, I’ve spent my and abrasions from the accident but undressed, and slipped back into whole life fl ying planes, fi rst Stear- will require extensive surgery to bed. I cuddled up to my wife’s back, mans, then the early Grummans, repair the damage to his testicles, now with a different anticipation, fl ew a Wildcat and Corsair in WWII, which will never operate as intended. and whispered, “The weather out and later in the Korean confl ict, Ban- Wallis sustained a broken clavicle there is terrible.” shees and Cougars. I’ve taught more and was treated and released. “Thank My loving wife of fi ve years replied, than 260 people to fl y and given rides God we weren’t on that bridge when “And can you believe my stupid hus- to hundreds, so I guess I am a pilot, Thurston shot his balls off or we band is out fi shing in that?” and you, what are you? She said, might be dead,” stated Wallis. And that’s when the fi ght started… “I’m a lesbian. I spend my whole day thinking about naked women. Upon being notifi ed of the wreck, 3. Watching TV in Bed As soon as I get up in the morning, Lavonia (Poole’s wife) asked how My wife and I were watching Who I think about naked women. When many frogs the boys had caught and Wants To Be A Millionaire while we I shower, I think about naked wom- did anyone get them from the truck? were in bed. I turned to her and said, en. When I watch TV, I think about Though Poole and Wallis did not die “Do you want to have sex?” naked women. It seems everything as a result of their misadventure as “No,” she answered. makes me think of naked women.” normally required by Darwin Award I then said, “Is that your fi nal answer?” Offi cial Rules, it can be argued that She didn’t even look at me this time, The two sat sipping in silence. A lit- Poole did in fact effectively remove simply saying, “Yes.” tle while later, a young man sat down himself from the gene pool.

21 No. 162 December 2012 - January 2013 4th Ed. KASK HANDBOOK ROTORUA Kayak Club KASK Updated to March 2008 7 Mahana Place, Rotorua KASK, the Kiwi Association of Sea For trade orders of this mother of Ph: 027 292 3138 Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc., a network of all sea kayaking handbooks, contact email: [email protected] New Zealand sea kayakers, has the Paul Caffyn: GISBORNE Sea Kayakers Club objectives of: email: [email protected] John Humphris, 3 Matthews Rd, Gisborne 1. promoting and encouraging the Shop RRP: $34.90 Ph: 06 868 4657 sport of sea kayaking NZ KASK members only, including email: [email protected] 2. promoting safety standards p&p: $22.50 Make cheques out to WELLINGTON Sea Kayak Network 3. developing techniques & Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers Sandy Winterton, 1 Antico St, equipment and mail to KASK Administrator: Melrose, Wellington 4. dealing with issues of coastal PO Box 23, Runanga, 7841 West Coast Ph: 04 977 1862 access and protection email: [email protected] 5. organizing an annual sea kayak The 4th edition of the KASK Hand- www.wskn.wellington.net.nz forum book, is a mammoth compilation on 6. publishing a bimonthly all aspects of sea kayaking in New newsletter. SOUTH ISLAND Zealand, by many of the most ex- MARLBOROUGH The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is perienced paddlers in the Universe. Martyn Smith published bimonthly as the ofﬁ cial Following a brief introduction, the Ph: 03 577 6256 newsletter of the Kiwi Association handbook is divided into six sections: email: [email protected] of Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. - Kayak, Paddle & Equipment NELSON - KASK Contact Articles, trip reports, book reviews, - Techniques & Equipment Chris Hinkley equipment reviews, new techniques, - The Elements Ph: 03 526 6817 letters to the editor, and moments - Trips and Expeditions email: [email protected] when the word ‘Bugger!’ was said - Places to Go - Resources CANTERBURY Sea Kayak Network singularly or often (referred to by Andy & Deirdre Sheppard some as incidents) are sought to en- SEA KAYAKING 53 Kent Lodge Ave, liven the pages of the newsletter. NETWORK ADDRESSES Avonhead, Christchurch 8004 NORTH ISLAND Ph: 03 342 7929 Send via mail or cybermail to: NORTHLAND Canoe Club email: [email protected] Paul Caffyn, PO Box 755, Whangarei www.sportsground.co.nz/canterburyseakayak 1843C, Coast Rd, Catherine Keleher OTAGO RD 1, Runanga 7873, West Coast Ph: 09 436 0341 Josh Sullivan Ph: 03 731 1806 email:[email protected] Ph: 027 362 2122 Email: [email protected] AUCKLAND Canoe Club email: [email protected] KASK Annual Subscription PO Box 9271, SOUTHLAND Sea Kayak Network $35 single membership. Newmarket, Auckland Stan Mulvany $40 family membership. email: [email protected] 03 215 7263 $35 overseas (PDF email newsletter) HAURAKI Kayak Group email: [email protected] For new members, a special price of PO Box 46-146, Herne Bay, Auckland www.sskn.uniformnz.com $15 is offered for the KASK Hand- email: [email protected] SKOANZ book - $50 for the sub. & handbook. www.hkg.org.nz Sea Kayak Operators Assn. NZ WAIKATO KASK Contact email: [email protected] A subscription form can be down- Evan Pugh, RD2, Putaruru 3482 Ph 027 452 9255 loaded from the KASK website. email: [email protected] www.skoanz.org.nz Cheques should be made out to: Ph: 07 883 6898 Kiwi Association Sea Kayakers & www.sportsground.co.nz/bayseakayak YAKITY YAK CLUBS mailed to: RUAHINE Whitewater Club www.canoeandkayak.co.nz KASK Administrator 71 Salisbury St., Ashhurst or freephone: 0508 KAYAKNZ PO Box 23, Runanga 7841 Ph: 06 326 8667 Fax: 06 326 8472 0508 529 2569 West Coast www.q-kayaks.co.nz/pages/club.asp BAY OF PLENTY - KASK Contact Correspondence - Queries Iona Bailey, Tauranga CHANGE OF ADDRESS to: Ph: 07 576 1492 Kay Pidgeon, KASK Administrator email: [email protected] PO Box 23, Runanga 7841 ROTORUA- KASK Contact West Coast John Flemming PO Box 1872, Rotorua KASK Website: or email Kay at: Ph: 07 347 9950 [email protected] email: [email protected] www.kask.org.nz

22 At 404 m long, Pink Cathedral Cave on the Otago coast is now the 2nd longest surveyed sea cave in the world. Geologist and caver Nicolas Barth has been exploring and surveying the caves of Otago. Photo: Dave Bunnell

Where is this superb tropical paradise, sunset photo taken? Could it be Fiordland? Indeed this is Fiordland during a very rare, magic run of settled weather and seas in January 2013. It is Madagascar Beach, about halfway between Yates Point and Kaipo Bay. Photo: Tara Mulvany (who has a summer job guiding at Martins Bay). MAILED TO

If undelivered, please return to: KASK, PO Box 23, Runanga, West Coast 7841

Susan Cade on a gorgeous day in Middle Fiord of Lake Te Anau. Photo: Sandy Winterton

KASK MEMBERSHIP POLICY Current membership fees are: - $35 for ordinary membership - for new members $35 or $50 to include a copy of the KASK Handbook - $40 for family or joint membership ($55 to include a Handbook copy) - $35 for overseas membership (PDF newsletter only); $50 for new o/s members plus cost of overseas postage for a copy of the KASK Handbook - members should endeavour to renew by 1 August - the KASK ﬁ nancial year runs 1 August to 31 July the following year - a subscription due notice and up to two reminders are sent out with the newsletters between June and October - if a membership renewal is not received by 30 September, membership lapses - new members who join between 1 June and 31 July automatically get their membership credited to the following year, receiving a 14 month membership - the KASK committee puts its emphasis on conﬁ rming renewals from existing members from July to October; and promoting new KASK memberships from November to February