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Preferences Among Wool Suits, and Jackets

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Preferences Among Wool Suits, and Jackets Preferences Among Wool Suits, and Jackets AGRICULTURAL INFORMATION BULLETIN No. 64 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE Bureau of Agricultural Economics WASHINGTON, D. C. September 1951 This is one of a series of studies conducted by the Division of Special Surveys, Bureau of Agricultural Economics, under the direction of Forrest E. Clements, Head of the Division. The study directors were : Jane A. Shepherd James A. Bayton Assisted by : Florence K. Nierman The research on which this report is based was made pos- sible by funds provided by the Agricultural Research and Marketing Act of 1946. The Bureau of Agricultural Economics assumed major responsibility for the study with the cooperation and advice from the Bureau of Human Nutrition and Home Economics and the Production and Marketing Administration. Tech- nical analyses of the sample suitings used were made by the Testing and Specifications Sections, U. S. Bureau of Standards and the Wool Standards Laboratory, U. S. De- partment of Agriculture. For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office Washington 25, D. C. - Price 30 cents MEN'S PREFERENCES AMONG WOOL SUITS, COATS, AND JACKETS PREPARED IN THE BUREAU OF AGRICULTURAL ECONOMICS CONTENTS Page I Page Introduction i: Sports jackets 68 Date of interviewing 2 Ownership of sports jackets The sample 2: Characteristics of sports Interpreting the findings 2 jackets owned 70 Survey findings : Plans to buy a sports jacket 72 Year-round suits 5 Consumer reactions to wear- Ownership of year-round ing sports jackets 76 suits -- _ 5 Topcoats and overcoats 86 1^ actors mñuential m pur- chase of year-round suits 11 Appendix Men's preferences for vari- Analysis of values 93 ous types of wool suit- Method of paired compari- ings 53 sons 95 INTRODUCTION In the years just after the war, the world demand for articles of clothing made of fine grades of wool increased tremendously, while surpluses of medium and coarser grades of wool accumu- lated because retailers believed that consumers would not accept clothing made of them. At the same time, certain style shifts in men's clothing—for example, lessening demand for vests and growing demand for sports jackets and topcoats, disrupted estab- lished production patterns. Manufacturers did not know whether they were dealing with price trends, fads, or long-range style changes. Consequently, it was felt that research designed to explore the psychological determinants of consumer buying be- havior would be helpful to wool producers, manufacturers, and retailers in interpreting the significance of trends in wool con- sumption. It would enable them to adapt their production tech- niques, and procedures to the needs, preferences, and habits of consumers—who determine, in the long run, the prosperity of the wool industry as a whole. And, though no surpluses exist at this time, this information can be useful in making most efficient use of the wool which is available. This study supplements a previous survey on men's clothing preferences made by the Bureau of Agricultural Economics.^ The first report dealt with men's preferences for business shirts, sum- mer sport shirts, wool shirts, extra trousers, socks, summer suits, underwear, pajamas, robes, and raincoats. The present report deals only with year-round suits, sports jackets, topcoats and overcoats, and also differs from the former in the design of the questionnaire and the types of analysis. In order to meet the ^ UNITED STATES BUREAU OF AGRICULTURAL ECONOMICS, MEN'S PREFERENCES AMONG SELECTED CLOTHING ITEMS. U. S. Dept. Agr. Misc. Pub. 706, 191 pp. 2 INFORMATION BULLETIN 64, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE objective of a study of motivations the questions in the schedule dealt with actual experiences in suit buying, that is, what men did and had in mind when they bought their newest suits, or, if they owned sports jackets, how they happened to start wearing them. In addition to data on ownership and the conventional coding of preferences and explanations, the goals or values men thought they could attain through suits were explored through the content analysis method. Preferences for suitings of differ- ent grade wools were estabUshed through use of the method of paired comparisons. DATE OF INTERVIEWING Interviewing was done during June 1949. THE SAMPLE The sample used in the survey was designed to represent all men in the United States who were 16 years of age or older, living in households. At the time the survey was made, it was estimated that there were approximately 51.5 million such indi- viduals in this country. The method of area sampling used in the survey was such that each household in the United States had an equal chance of being selected for study. Within each household selected, interviews were taken with all the men 16 years of age and over, except in households having more than three men. In these cases, not more than three interviews were taken. The sample was designed to permit separate analyses for the West Coast States, the South, and the remainder of the country. The West Coast consisted of California, Washington and Oregon. The South was defined as the region comprised of Texas, Okla- homa, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Tennessee, Kentucky, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, and Delaware. The remainder of the States were grouped together. In all, 2,629 interviews were made. In reporting national totals, interviews taken in the West Coast and the South were weighted down to their proper national proportions, producing a weighted total of 1,613 interviews. For the sample as a whole, the chances are approximately 2 in 3 that any errors resulting from construction of the sample alone would not change the results more than 1.8 percentage points in either direction and 95 in 100 that sampling errors have not affected the results more than 3.5 percentage points. For sub- samples of 500 and 1,000 cases, accuracy of the sample at the 95-percent level is about 6.6 and 4.7 percentage points respec- tively. INTERPRETING THE FINDINGS For the most part, interpretations are left to those who wish to apply the findings to specific problems. Differences are not pointed up in the text unless they are statistically significant or MEN'S PREFERENCES AMONG SELECTED WOOL ITEMS 3 are part of a series. Mention has been made of lack of differences in a few cases where they appeared to be of interest. Certain cautions as to use of the results are pointed out here. Some of the data reported deal with men's reports of the number and characteristics of articles of clothing owned at the time of the interview. This information is subject to factual errors related to the adequacy of the men's memories, their wish to conceal or distort information that they thought might lower them in the eyes of the interviewer, and their level of information concerning the subject. By a system of probes, and by phrasing the questions to minimize any suggestion of status, an attempt was made to reduce errors from the first two sources. Little can be done to eliminate errors from the third. In addition to an analysis of the internal consistency of the interviews, reports of interviewers lead to the conclusion that many men are poorly informed as to the fibers, weaves, and finishes of their suits and coats. Those interviewed sometimes confused the names of mate- rials and fibers, and texture and finish were frequently mixed up. Also a number of the respondents were unable to describe the characteristics of materials in their garments, aside from those having to do with color and design. All tables that deal with char- acteristics of materials should be interpreted with this in mind. Similarly, preferences and reasons for preferences reported by some of the men may have been based on misconceptions or lack of knowledge. Nonetheless, they are important determiners of purchasing behavior and as such, they are worthy of study. Certain problems arose when definitions of the articles of clothing included in the study were being drafted. On advice from the industry, year-round and winter suits were treated as the same type of garment. Trade definitions of year-round suits, as opposed to summer suits, and of topcoats as opposed to over- coats, depend upon the weight per yard of the fabric. This defi- nition could not be used effectively in discussing the items with the respondents since so few had this information. With the agreement of representatives of the clothing and wool industries, suits which were worn in spring and fall, in winter, or through- out the year were grouped together and are hereafter referred to as "year-round suits." In some cases, therefore, tropical worsted or gabardine suits which were worn during a large part of the year are classified as year-round suits, even though the trade definitions may differ. No satisfactory criterion could be established which the men could use in distinguishing between a topcoat and an overcoat. For this reason, interviewers were instructed to accept the owners' classifications, which may or may not correspond to trade definitions. In evaluating tables showing break-downs of purchases by year, it should be remembered that the interviewing was done in June of 1949. Consequently, figures for only the first 5 or 6 months of 1949 are included. In most cases, medians were computed on the basis of smaller intervals than those appearing in the tables, as this results in a more accurate figure. 4 INFORMATION BULLETIN 64, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE A few of the variables used in the tables require some explana- tion. In tables showing break-downs by community size, the metropolitan areas include cities with a population of 500,000 or more and smaller incorporated towns within metropolitan areas.
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