Paddy Waddell's Railway

VOICE OF THE MOORS

NYMA – PROTECTING THE NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS FOR PRESENT AND FUTURE GENERATIONS THE MAGAZINE OF ISSUE 137 THE NORTH YORKSHIRE AUTUMN 2019 MOORS ASSOCIATION (NYMA) £2.75 CONTENTS CHAIRMAN’S 3 Chairman’s Foreword FOREWORD 4 Walking THE NORTH YORK MOORS – A WALKER’S REFLECTIONS 5 President's Piece A LITTLE OR A LOT – THE TIMES THEY ARE A CHANGIN’ IT ALL COUNTS The title track of Bob Dylan’s 1964 album was recorded in 6 Botany KEEPING THE SUNSHINE October 1963 shortly after the Washington Civil Rights March 7 Heritage SAFEGUARDING OUR MOORS led by Martin Luther King in August of the same year. Bob CULTURE Dylan’s song became an anthem for the time and is 8 Industrialisation PADDY WADDELL’S RAILWAY appropriate, perhaps in some respects, for our present time. We are facing significant changes on many fronts from 10 The Birds in your Garden WBJ s climate change to political upheaval both international and 11 Technology GOOD NEWS, BAD NEWS: domestic. RURAL BROADBAND 12 –13 History THE MEDIEVAL CLOTHIER / HIGH TEMPERATURES ACROSS EUROPE ORM OF KIRKBYMOORSIDE / HEADLESS MYSTERIES SURROUND THE Climate change tends to be a remote concept until the more OLD TOWN HALL extremes of weather come nearer to home. Recent focus on Greenland and the effects of this year’s European heatwave 14 Books NYMA PUBLICATIONS serve to illustrate this only too well. Information from the 15 Skylarks / Crossword 86 National Snow and Ice Data Centre (NSIDC) in Greenland 16 NYMA News / NYMA Walks show the European heatwave reaching Greenland on July 29 th setting record temperatures and melting 90% of the ice Cover photo: The waterfall at Thomason Foss near Beck Hole © rjbphotographic.co.uk sheet surface. The run-off from this melting ice was 55 billion tons. This is 40 billion tons more than the 1981-2010 average for the same period. Even closer to home, in July we NYMA MEMBERSHIP saw the highest temperature ever recorded in this country, Annual membership: 38.7°C at the Cambridge University Botanic Gardens. This was followed in August by the hottest late Bank Holiday • Individual £18 weekend on record. Extremes of weather are a predicted • Joint £25 (living at same address) feature of global warming which leads to climate change. Annual digital membership: • Individual £10 IPPC REPORT • Joint £14 (living at the same address) The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change released a 10 Year membership: special report on August 8 th “Climate Change and Land”. One • Individual £120 of its principal findings is that managing land resources • Joint £150 (living at same address) sustainably can help address climate change and that this Life membership: comes down to locally appropriate policies and governance • Individual £300 systems. • Joint £400 (living at same address) The Government’s 25 year plan to improve the environment Business membership: which was launched at the beginning of the year also includes a review of National Parks and AONBs. At a national • Small businesses (up to 10 employees): £30 level it is an ambitious attempt to create a green future for • Large businesses (more than 10 employees): £100 the country. Using and managing land sustainably is set out For membership queries or if you wish to join our as a clear objective at the beginning of the plan and is in line e-newsletter list, please contact Membership Secretary: with the findings of the IPPC Report. Hopefully fine words Carolyn Moore on 01287 669648 or e-mail: will be translated into deeds and acted upon as a matter of [email protected] urgency.

REVIEW OF NATIONAL PARKS AND AREAS OF Voice of the Moors Editor OUTSTANDING NATURAL BEAUTY Sharon Artley Please email articles/letters/photos to: The Glover Report issued interim findings of the landscapes [email protected] – 01287 660470 review in July and outlines changes which are seen as Design Basement Press – 01947 897945 necessary to improve protected landscapes. “The underlying www.basementpress.com argument of our review is that our system of designated Printed on paper made from sustainable and traceable raw material sources. landscapes should be a positive force for improvement with big Articles appearing in Voice of the Moors convey the authors’ personal views, ambitions made possible by these 44 areas uniting to become beliefs and opinions and are not necessarily those of the North Yorkshire Moors Association. more than the sum of their parts”. The final report will explore

VOICE OF THE MOORS – AUTUMN 2019 2 the potential for a National Landscape Service to address the rebuilt derelict buildings around the dale. The project is problem that “Our system of landscape protection is funded by the landowner David Ross. Four of these creations fragmented, sometimes marginalised and often misunderstood” . by the artist Andy Goldsworthy have already been completed There is a suggestion that such a service would be an and permission exists for a fifth installation. A planning organisation with overall control of all National Parks application for a further five of these buildings was possibly based on the US model. There is also an indication submitted to the National Park earlier this year. NYMA that the report will recommend the development of a submitted a response which was reached after considerable National Ranger Service calling for a significant increase in lengthy discussion by Council. It was decided to approve the the present number of rangers with a wide remit similar to project in principle but also expressed some reservations US National Park Rangers. Amongst the findings of the about the management of the scheme. At the July planning report are suggestions for changes in farming delivering meeting, the National Park Committee agreed to defer a nature recovery through environmental land management decision until further information was made available, systems as part of subsidy reform. Designated landscapes including ecological evidence which could indicate possible should become leaders in Nature Recovery Networks. The harmful effects on wildlife. current system of governance for National Parks should be reformed . “Time after time we have heard and seen that boards are too big, do not do a good job in setting strategic direction and ambition, and are unrepresentative of both society and, at times of the things parks should be leading on, such as natural beauty, climate change and diversity”. The report recognises that the changes that are being proposed will cost money, “doing more will cost more” and quoting John Dower who wrote in 1945 “If National Parks are provided for the nation they should clearly be provided for by the nation” . The final review will also say that there is a very strong case for increasing funding for Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs). These interim findings point to a radical overhaul of National Parks but the big question that remains is whether, having received the full report later this year, the government will be prepared to act on the report and adequately fund the changes.

DAVID RUBINSTEIN Sadly, at the end of July, we learned of the death of David Rubinstein. David was a leading figure of the Ramblers’ Association and a long-term member of NYMA. He has been a supporter of the North York Moors for many years objecting to the Whitby Potash development proposed in k c

Sirius Minerals i

1978. A full tribute will appear in a future issue of Voice of w d a h

Sirius Minerals share price crashed on 6th of August C the Moors. You can read David’s final article in this issue of m o T Voice. following their decision to withdraw the $500 million junk ©

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bonds which it needs to sell as a prerequisite for borrowing o h $2.5 billion from J.P. Morgan, the American investment bank. P CHANGES AT THE DANBY MOORS CENTRE This is a serious set-back for the company which is A huge improvement has been made to the permanent continuing to develop the three interlinked sites at Wilton on display at the Moors Centre with a complete change to the Teesside, Lockwood Beck and the mine head site at Doves layout and content. It is a welcome change from the rather Nest Farm within the National Park. This funding tired display which has been there unchanged for many arrangement to raise a further $3 billion, referred to as Stage years. The National Park should also be complimented on 2 funding, is necessary for Sirius to continue to develop the the high quality and frequently changing displays of art work polyhalite mine. It was reported that unless Sirius is able to in the gallery, work which is often inspired by the landscape obtain this funding, the company will run out of money and wildlife of the Park. within six months. Engineering work is beginning to reach a period of high risk with shaft sinking and tunnelling and the PLANNING ISSUES possibility of delays caused by geological problems. Hanging Stones Project NYMA has said from the beginning of the project that such a The “Hanging Stones” Project is a scheme which is being high risk venture should never have been allowed to take proposed for Northdale near Rosedale Abbey. It is a sculpture place in the National Park. trail with various installations set inside refurbished and TOM CHADWICK

VOICE OF THE MOORS – SUMMER 2019 3 WALKING THE NORTH YORK MOORS – A WALKER’S REFLECTIONS

HE NORTH YORK MOORS NATIONAL PARK is not Wheeldale but my pleas to stop and examine it fell on deaf the most celebrated of the English national parks but ears as my companions knew the area well and were T it is cherished by all who know it. I was aged 33 concerned only to reach Ravenscar without delay. My second before I set foot on the moors when I moved from London to attempt was made with one friend. We were woefully Hull to take up a new job. I believe as firmly as any native underprepared and bailed out when we had hardly reached that Yorkshire is God’s own country and that the North York the halfway point. The third attempt was better planned and Moors are a veritable paradise. undertaken with a youthful Colin Speakman and Chris Hall, Some who do not know the moors assert that is merely a then the national secretary of the Ramblers’ Association. plateau of high ground. They could hardly be more mistaken. I Starting from Osmotherley, we initially got on well, but by the think of the splendid views in the vicinity of Ampleforth and time we reached the Whitby-Scarborough road, Chris and I Hawnby, the grandeur of the Hole of Horcum, the waterfalls were so exhausted that we stopped there and waited for a bus near Goathland, the many splendid churches or abbey remains to Scarborough, leaving Colin to complete the route alone. at such places as Pickering, Lastingham, Whitby, Byland and The North York Moors have been a haven to me for over fifty Rievaulx. There is the North York Moors steam railway bisecting years, a focus for campaigning, recreation and leisure. Soon the park, the multitude of craft works and bookshops, the five- after the turn of the century I suffered a major stroke which mile long walk thought the daffodil valley in Farndale or the limited my walking to much shorter journeys. The savage cuts August glory of the purple heather moorland. in government financing of national parks which followed I know the North York Moors as a carless walker. Recently brought to an end the national park’s Moorsbus scheme Malcolm Hodgson organised a hugely successful jubilee of the which operated each year from April to October. A voluntary inauguration of the Cleveland Way whose 109 miles are Moorsbus, the NYM Railway and the commercial Coastliner mostly within the national park. The event was abundantly provide lifelines but they are not adequate substitutes for the attended but only two of us were veterans of the original comprehensive national park network. Still, at 87 I look back opening in 1969. One was Colin Speakman and the other was with satisfaction on many life-enhancing days on the moors. n me. In 1969 we attended as newly-appointed secretaries of Heaven itself could offer nothing finer. I never wanted to learn a m k a e the West and East Riding branches of the Ramblers’ to play the harp anyway! p S

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Association. In 2019 we were old fossils, a not entirely DAVID RUBINSTEIN o C

o comfortable incarnation, but a proud moment nonetheless. t o

From the Editor: See the Chair’s Foreword for more about David. h I played a more active role in earlier years in combating the P proposal to build a reservoir in the upper Farndale valley, a scheme which would have badly affected a peaceful part of the moors and the daffodil valley. I recall visiting Low Mill with my three young sons to secure signatures to a petition against the scheme. Nearly everyone who passed us signed and the reservoir was not built. We were less successful in stopping the proposed potash mines near Whitby, most of which were adjacent to, but not actually in the park. Opposition to the mines was mitigated by the enticing prospect of jobs but the operation was delayed due to economic circumstances. The protest movement did its best and was a worthy predecessor of the widespread opposition to fracking in the area. It was not all campaigns. The North York Moors provide wonderful walking country. An example is the Lyke Wake Walk, whose forty miles across the moors from Osmotherley to Ravenscar follow in part an ancient burial route. I have tried to walk the whole path three times but succeeded only once. This was on my first attempt when I joined an organised party which fed and watered the walkers and carried our paraphernalia. The route crosses the Roman road on

VOICE OF THE MOORS – SUMMER 2019 4 PRESIDENT'S PIECE A LITTLE OR A LOT – IT ALL COUNTS

OR THE LAST FIFTY YEARS demands for F environmental action have surged in periodic waves of deep concern, each wave more pressing than the one before. In between, the passion tends to wither and sink back as media interest wanes and the messages sound stale. Today, with ever more urgency, a new tidal wave urges action on climate change, on species and habitat loss, on each of us needing to do whatever we can to help. Will it be different this time I wonder? Will we be prepared to really make the changes needed? There are encouraging signs. The switch from fossil-fuel to electrically-powered vehicles, the phasing out of gas boilers and the dream of carbon-neutrality are on the agenda. But will momentum be maintained? In reality, while we are concerned locally for our wildlife and landscapes, the future of farming and the health of the environment in general, it is what people like us say and do in many places which will dictate what ultimately happens to look after the planet and the natural world. In late August two senior politicians made striking statements. “Our house is burning”, tweeted French president, Emmanuel Macron, literally in the sense of the Amazon going up in smoke taking part of our air supply with it. Metaphorically he also neatly provided a most apposite and succinct expression for environmental challenges as a whole. s

planting alder buckthorn, the caterpillar’s food-plant. Here we r

In parallel, on this side of the Channel, our Prime Minister, i a t s r

Boris Johnson robustly stated his concern for the have a group of people taking that all-important step to make a C

n a I environment, habitats and species. However cynical some a difference by helping the butterfly to adapt to climate ©

s o change. It would be an easy step to follow their example. t might be about whether actual deeds will lie behind the o h P words, at least they have been said. Add to that, Stanley My third highlight is the acclaimed book: Working with Johnson, Boris’s father played a part in drafting the crucial Nature – saving and using the world’s wild places , by Jeremy EU Habitats legislation which underpins protection of our Purseglove. If you are demoralised by what you see Moors and wild places and just maybe, an element of his happening all around, you simply must read this book. It is wisdom might filter down to stick with his son as future wonderful. Purseglove maintains a boyish sense of policies emerge. enthusiasm through his writing, which is engaging, and Obviously, it is what people do, not only what they say that delightfully spangled with very personal anecdotes. counts, whether in Birmingham, Boston or Brasilia. And the As an environmentalist with a major international firm of most important step of all is for each of us to believe that engineering consultants his achievements and ideas are so however small our contribution it can make a collective compellingly refreshing. Purseglove might have re-wilded difference. rivers, made dam projects environmentally beneficial, sought I appreciate that this may all seem rather abstract and déjà solutions in the monoculture of palm groves, and influenced vu, I’d like to share a few tangible things which have places all over the world on a scale few can aspire to, but at the cheered me immensely despite the tangled uncertainties of bottom line, this is an individual who thought the environment present times. mattered and spent a lifetime doing something about it. On ‘Earth Day’ boys and girls from our local primary school My final accolade goes to film-maker Rebecca Hosking for launched Pledges to the Planet . They suggested simple ideas, her contribution to the attack on single use plastic bags. the kind of things we can all do: switch off lights, don’t Some years ago, Rebecca took her acclaimed and moving BBC waste water, drive less, walk more, keep places for wildlife in film on plastic pollution and its impact on albatrosses in the your garden. Now, each month our town magazine runs a Pacific to her local Council in Modbury, Devon. In response Pledge to the Planet Reminder on the young people’s theme the Council promoted a ban on single-use plastic bags in the of ‘The climate is in a muddle, wildlife is in trouble and time town. A one-woman-move encouraged a landslide is running out’. revolution which touches us all. What each of us can do, My second highlight is the award of the grant to Whitby however little or large, is truly relevant to everyone else. Naturalists for the scheme to help the Brimstone butterfly by IAN CARSTAIRS

VOICE OF THE MOORS – SUMMER 2019 5 BOTANY KEEPING THE SUNSHINE

Common Fleabane Mouse-eared Hawkweed Oxford Ragwort Tansy A

UST AS the bright yellow dandelion summons in the These powerful chemicals in the leaves were used in M Y N

early summer sun, so other yellow members of the poultices for joint inflammations, rheumatism and gout, and d n a

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J Asteraceae family prolong it, giving us cheer and insects k for burns and old ulcers, often mixed with honey. It is now y S

n an extended feeding season into October when few other thought it could be antimitotic, inhibiting cell division and a N

plants are in flower. Some have all ray florets like the s

cancer cell proliferation. But it is loved by insects who o t o h dandelion, others have only an outer ring and a few have congregate on its safe heads, especially the cinnabar moth P none at all. and its black and yellow caterpillars. However, in folklore, it Three with no ray florets are pineapple weed Matricaria was fairies and witches that were attracted to it, both said to discoidea , common groundsel Senecio vulgare and tansy ride on its stems or shelter under its heads. Burns mentions Tanacetum vulgare . Pineapple weed is a small common them ‘on ragweed nags’. The larger flowered Oxford ragwort, annual, often overlooked, of path edges and field gateways an escapee from its botanical garden, spread via the railways with finely dissected, feathery leaves smelling of pineapple. and embankments countrywide and brightens up these The conical flowers can be eaten in salads, the slight man-made ‘squalid’ places as do many alien plants. bitterness aiding digestion. Groundsel, another common Fleabane, a creeping, patch forming plant of wetter areas, annual of disturbed ground, has fleshier leaves and more ditches, roadsides and cliffs, has paler florets and entire cylindrical flowers. It flowers, seeds and germinates all year downy leaves. Reputed to keep away flies and midges, it was round which possibly accounts for its name from Old English employed as a strewing herb with its astringent properties meaning ‘ground swallower’, though it could also mean ‘pus for dysentery and wound healing. absorber’ due to its effective use as a poultice to heal Of those with all ray florets the three sow-thistles, smooth wounds, boils and blisters and calm hot inflammations. The Sonchus oleraceus and rough S. asper both annual/biennial, taller tansy is less common, found occasionally on roadsides, and the bright yellow, showier perennial ( S. arvensis ) are all river banks and cliffs, having dissected, aromatic leaves and plants of disturbed, rich soils, field edges and roadsides. With a flat head of button-like flowers. Though very bitter, it was juicier, lobed leaves they were eaten as a vegetable but are eaten at Easter in cakes, puddings or stir fried with orange now relegated to pigs and rabbits, although in folklore, they and for flavouring black puddings and liqueurs. As a strong were connected to hares. Their milky juice was used to aid insecticide it was used as a strewing herb or planted round the flow of milk and to calm inflammations. In the complex animal sheds to deter fleas and lice or taken to rid the body hawk weed/beard/bit group, the autumn hawkbit of worms. Its disinfectant and antimicrobial properties were Scorzoneroides autumnalis , rough hawkbit Leontodon hispidus used to preserve meat and for embalming and it also and the lesser hawkbit L.saxatilis may still be in flower but regulated the menstrual cycle and prevented miscarriages in none have been past recorded as used by man. Only the small doses, larger ones having the opposite effect! earlier flowering mouse eared hawkweed Pilosella officinarum Three with an outer ring of ray florets only are common has been widely used, including as an effective antibiotic for ragwort Senecio jacobaea , Oxford ragwort S.squalidus and many medical conditions. fleabane Pulicaria dysenterica . Ragwort, with its dissected leaves and tall, strong, branched stems supporting large Like the dandelion, most of these plants will be often multiflowered heads, is commonly found in hedgerows, thought of as ‘weeds’, growing where we don’t want them, wastelands and wood edges, though reduced now by man but to insects they can be a saving late food source as the due to its slow poisonous effect when eaten by animals, days get shorter and colder. Let’s leave them to grow! especially when it loses its protective bitterness dried as hay. ANNE PRESS

VOICE OF THE MOORS – AUTUMN 2019 6 HERITAGE SAFEGUARDING OUR MOORS CULTURE

PRIME PURPOSE of the North Yorkshire Moors A Association is safeguarding the landscape and culture of the North York Moors National Park. Landscape is an easy enough concept to understand, but what do we mean by culture? So here is an attempt to define “culture” in the context of the work of the Association. The landscape of the North York Moors is itself a product of human culture – what the Germans would call a “Kulturlandschaft” or cultural landscape, shaped by natural forces, but also by millennia of human activity – clearing forests, draining land, building walls, barns, farms, villages, treading out paths, tracks and roads. This includes moorlands which are not ”natural”, rather a specially managed landscape for a particular leisure activity, as are many areas of parkland. What we are protecting in the National Park is in fact a historic landscape created by economic activity which in many cases no longer exists or turn are a key part of that culture. Equally there are the has changed beyond recognition, but which society has painters, writers, poets who have been drawn to and been agreed to protect as a link to our own personal history and inspired by the North York Moors and its dramatic coastline – sense of identity. Wordsworth, Turner, Herbert Read, not to mention pioneering But it is reflected also in architecture – from the grand geologists, palaeontologists and botanists such as William architecture of the aristocracy, such as Duncombe Park or Smith, John Phillips or Nan Sykes. This tradition continues Hackness Hall, fortified structures such as Hemsley or through contemporary recorders of the landscape and culture Scarborough Castles or monastic such as Rievaulx or Byland, including painters, photographers, poets and musicians . to the vernacular buildings dating from medieval times So how does NYMA best “safeguard” this rich heritage? Its onwards - cottages, farmhouses, barns, walls, bridges, and regular and occasional publications such as Voice of the Moors , moorland crosses but also the barrows, tumuli, tracks and and the brilliant History Tree book are fine examples of how we trods of Roman, Iron or even Bronze Age origin. are already doing so very effectively. But maybe we should Equally important are artefacts of the industrial 18 th , 19 th and also encourage and support younger generations of painters, even 20 th centuries – the railways, the textile mills, the photographers, musicians, poets, broadcasters, film makers ironworks as the Rosedale Land of Iron Project exemplifies. and writers to discover what this unique landscape and Even where a century or more has healed the scars on the seascape offers as inspiration and source of material. landscape, the human stories remain. The North York Moors is a landscape full of stories, many yet to Less tangible perhaps, is the culture of the communities who be told. As a group of people sharing this heritage, we have the live, work and for that matter visit the area, and in particular opportunity through our magazine, our events, talks, walks, what is distinctive and different in these cultures which in some discussions to inspire other individuals and organisations. ways reflect the cultural landscape which we cherish. Britain faces a crisis of identity. Whatever the future holds, This has many aspects. Hill farming, and hill farmers and we need to rediscover who we are. True love of one’s country their families in particular, are living connections with past is not about blinkered flag-waving nationalism, fear and cultures, in terms of their memories, family history, folklore, xenophobia. It is about celebrating and sharing what is music, dialect and language. The Lyke Wake Dirge is one of unique and special about our great Yorkshire landscape and the most remarkable medieval poems in the English cultural heritage, not just with ourselves, but with people language which also happens to be in Cleveland dialect. from other parts of Britain and from overseas. Not only is Words are a direct connection with past lives and experience. this the best way of safeguarding our priceless landscape Writers who have succeeded in recording this rural past but, through the creative industries and the right kinds of include Canon Atkinson and Frank Elgee, Marie Hartley and environmentally sustainable tourism, generating the wealth Joan Ingilby’s classic Life in the Moorlands of North East to create the local jobs, services and businesses to support Yorkshire as well as many later figures who have provided the infrastructure we need and the landscape we love. important sources of knowledge of this rural culture and in COLIN SPEAKMAN

VOICE OF THE MOORS – AUTUMN 2019 7 INDUSTRIALISATION PADDY WADDELL’S RAILWAY

ANY have heard of ‘The Town That Never Was’, between the two locations, transporting the ore to the works M Ravenscar, but do you know of ‘The Railway That at Glaisdale. Parliamentary approval was needed before a Never Was’? Read on… new railway could be initiated and when the new line was proposed there was strong opposition from the Whitby, EARLY IRON WORKING Redcar and Middlesbrough Railway who saw the proposed new line as a competitor to their Whitby - Loftus route. The working of ironstone within the North York Moors goes However, in July 1873, the new route was approved. The back to the Iron Age, although few remains from that period Cleveland Extension Mineral Railway (CEMR), Paddy can be seen today. During the mediaeval period lay brothers Waddell’s Railway, was finally underway! Or was it? attached to the various monasteries were operating numerous small workings particularly in the Rye valley, the On 17 th October 1874 at Moorsholm, a location described in upper dales and the Esk valley. From the late 1700s ironstone the Whitby Gazette as ‘remote, bleak and at this season an nodules were being collected from the shore at Robin almost inaccessible part of the district’, the first turf was cut Hood’s Bay and Staithes and by the early years of the 1800s, by Joseph Dodds. Mr Dodds was an industrial tycoon and drift mines were being opened along the coast, the raw M.P. who first put forward the proposal for the CEMR. In material being loaded onto ships bound for Tyneside where anticipation of the arrival of the new railway a large imposing good supplies of coal were available. Cut channels, postholes two storey hotel was built in Moorsholm. The Station Hotel and rutways along the shore all bear testimony to the early never opened for business. transport of ironstone by sea as do the more obvious, Investment in the proposed new railway was slow and the although rapidly decaying remains of Port Mulgrave harbour. time allowed for the construction of the line ran out. In 1878 and again in 1881 new Acts were passed by Parliament but THE RAILWAYS ARRIVE still the work was not completed. In the twenty-three years The opening of the Whitby Pickering railway in 1836 and the between the passing of the first Act and the deadline for incidental discovery of a rich ironstone seam at Grosmont, completion of work laid down by the 1896 Act, there were no led to the development of ironworking in the Esk valley. The fewer than seven Acts approved by Parliament. ironworks at Glaisdale opened in 1866 and blast furnaces were also built at Beck Hole and at Grosmont. With the FINAL DEMISE expansion of the railway system, sea transport declined. The success of the venture to establish this railway was, Numerous railways were developed to transport ore from perhaps, always in doubt. By the time the first Parliamentary the rich workings to the furnaces and there was often severe Act was approved in 1873, the great boom in railway building competition between the companies involved. By around was in decline. The Glaisdale ironworks closed in 1876 and in 1850 the new town of Middlebrough was taking over from the early 1880s a slump in the price of iron from a top price Tyneside as the place for investment in ironworking and of 120/- per ton to a low of 33/- per ton consequentially led railway development. to a reduction in rail traffic. In August 1884 contractor’s plant The first intimation of a proposed new mineral railway line from the CEMR was put up for sale at several locations in the between Glaisdale and Skelton, a distance of ten and a half area. This was ‘the end of the line’ for Paddy Waddell’s miles, appeared in the Whitby Gazette of November 1871. Railway. In July of the following year the railway between The purpose was to exploit the rich ironstone reserves Scarborough and Whitby opened with due ceremony. Not

VOICE OF THE MOORS – AUTUMN 2019 8 long day of heavy labour! A now modernised cottage on the Lealholm - Stonegate road also served as an inn during the construction period and was known as The Laughing Ass.

WHY PADDY WADDELL’S RAILWAY? John Waddell (1826-1888) was a prominent Scottish railway contractor who founded the company of John Waddell & Sons. His firm was involved in the construction of several of the railways in the North York Moors including the line from Loftus to Whitby and the Scarborough to Whitby route which included the impressive thirteen arch, one hundred and twenty-foot high Whitby viaduct. His firm had a national reputation and was responsible for building the Mersey Railway Tunnel in 1881 and the graceful bridge over the River Bridge abutments at Kilton Thorpe Thames at Putney which opened in 1886. Waddell was also the contractor for Paddy Waddell’s Railway. Without the dependent on ironstone traffic, this line transported mixed labour of Irish navvies it is doubtful if many of our railways goods, including fish, and increasingly over the years, until would have been constructed. Thousands were employed in its closure in 1965, passenger traffic. the pick and shovel work involved in creating the cuttings, embankments and tunnels necessary for the expansion of the railway system. Bridges often containing millions of ON THE GROUND bricks or huge stone blocks were built throughout the Although the CEMR never came to fruition, it nonetheless left country to carry the lines over rivers and deep valleys. John its mark on the ground. When money was available, Waddell employed Irish navvies on many of his projects and construction works commenced at numerous scattered points he also engaged an Irish engineer named Gallaher to along the proposed route. Mainly taking the form of cuttings, supervise work on the Whitby - Loftus railway. The linking of embankments and culverts, many of these works can still be the Irish and the Scots was perhaps inevitable! seen today and are also shown on the Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure maps of the Park. One of the easiest places to see some of the remains of the CEMR is near the junction of FURTHER INFORMATION the A171 and the B1336 Liverton road, still known as Paddy The story of the CEMR was written by R.F.Moore and Waddell’s Corner. The railway would have crossed the main published by Whitby Literary & Philosophical Society in 1973. road at this point and a bridge to carry the road over it was This offers a detailed account of the history of the built. This was later demolished but earthworks can still be undertaking, including information about the finances of the seen on the moor in a south easterly direction. The only project and notes on the locations of extant ground evidence. remaining bridge over the line is still in use near Rake House, The book was republished by the National Park Authority in h t r o f very close to its termination with the present Esk Valley line. 1985, but is now out of print. Interestingly, the Station Hotel i n a t S at Moorsholm which is photographed in the reprinted book

Although Rake House predates the CEMR by many years, it is n a l A was demolished soon after the book was published. probable that it was used as an inn by the navvies working on ©

s o t the line. One may imagine many a riotous night here after a o ALAN STANIFORTH h P

Rake House, showing the cutting of the railway just before it was to join the present Esk Valley line. 9 Photo © John Harding/BTO A i i c D a c t c b u a s c h T P l a u c s d b s t m c Q f w l I w T b d u W

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F YOU WERE to dream up something new to help isolated and electricity: it is more expensive to provide these services people have better access to services or to enable others outside built up areas because of the costs of overcoming Ito reach them more easily, what would it be like? You the distances involved. And if costs and profit, rather than would be able to complete and send forms, order things that the public interest, are your main motives - rural areas in - you cannot buy locally, or communicate with relatives across evitably suffer disproportionately ... the world. This is just the sort of thing that Joseph Banks This presents an opportunity for entrepreneurs. If you can dreamt about as His Majesty’s Bark Endeavour crossed the escape the suffocation of monopolies, restrictive practices, Southern Ocean on Captain James Cook’s first voyage from vested interests, planning, politics and plain bloody minded - Whitby and first landing on the east coast of Australia. Banks ness, then providing broadband connections in rural loca - wrote, on 3 October 1769, somewhat wistfully: “Now do I wish tions may be one of the most liberating and that our freinds [sic] in England could by the assistance of transformational services you can provide. some magical spying glass take a peep at our situation.” And this is just what initiatives such as Moorsweb, have done Come 2019, 250 years later and some of us are still wishing. on the North Yorkshire Moors. Moorsweb, along with others Broadband, and the cluster of technologies that constitute it, such as Beeline Broadband, Quickline, Boundless, Save 9 and is the basis of our modern ‘magical spying glasses’. It’s the Bay Broadband Cooperative, have examined the local condi - means by which we connect computers to each other and to tions that defeat national providers like BT, and turned them the internet. If you are fortunate, you will be able to connect to advantage, creating niches for themselves, each with a dif - whichever type of computer you have - via either a wireless ferent approach depending on local circumstances. Once the or wired link or a combination of both. It is now normal to magic ingredients of funding and local cooperation are in connect first via wireless wi-fi, then a wired link from a place, it is possible to have isolated rural locations with better router into the telephone network, then on to a fibre optic broadband services than the urban norm. network taking you eventually to the internet. The part that Moorsweb, for instance, is a collaboration between the com - most people worry about is how well these first connections munity overseer, Moors Web Link, and the operator Signa work, or, if you live in some remote locations, don’t ... Technologies. Started in 2006, it now serves 300 subscribers In theory, broadband should be the answer to many a rural across a range of moorland locations. The local topography problem. But as someone famously said, “in theory, theory dictates the network setup. A series of relays located strate - and practice are the same, in practice they are not”. The very gically plus relay transmitters on subscribers’ properties, thing that broadband is good at - conquering distance by form a tree-shaped network. Speeds range from 10 megabits s e i transmitting and receiving relatively huge quantities of infor - g

o per second to 100 Mbs, depending on how many subscribers l o n mation very quickly - is also a handicap: who pays for the in - h c are accessing the system and other variables. Funding ini - e T

a frastructure to carry it? n tially came from Yorkshire Forward. Connection improve - g i S

© For rural areas, this also afflicts postal services, buses, rail, ments were funded by North Yorkshire County Council, o t o h refuse collection, road maintenance, water, gas, sewerage P NYNet and Ryedale District Council. Since 2013 funding has come mainly from subscriptions. Such achieved speeds almost completely solve some of the Example of one of Signa Technologies' most irksome problems with rural broadband, especially remote masts powered when users try to connect with essential websites such as by wind and solar energy. banks or pubic bodies which require forms to be completed Courtesy: Signa online and do not work properly on slow lines. This is an issue both with the physical hardware and also web design - ers not considering, for example, low broadband speed for rural users on websites with many unnecessary graphics. The latest ‘solution’ for isolated rural areas is 50 metre high masts for next generation 5G mobile phone networks at twice the height of the current planning maximum. Good news or bad news? I wonder what Joseph Banks might have thought with his magical spying glass?

ADRIAN LEAMAN

Thanks to Bernard Glass and Ann Farmer for additional material.

11 HISTORY THE MEDIEVAL CLOTHIER: MAKING AND MARKETING CLOTH IN YORKSHIRE

T WESTERDALE HISTORY GROUP in June, John Lee competing with them illegally by producing dyed or striped A spoke on the medieval clothier, and his (or occasionally cloths. This enquiry reported that at Coxwold, Thomas Webster her) work in both the making and marketing of cloth. and John Raby, and at Kilburn, William Skurweton and Alexander He explored the different processes involved in making cloth. Webster, all wove blue and ‘plunket’ (grey or light blue) coloured Several of these terms are still mentioned in everyday speech, cloths. Helmsley was a larger centre of production, as no fewer when we talk of being ‘dyed in the wool’ or ‘on tenterhooks’. than 9 weavers producing coloured cloths were recorded in the Clothiers also arranged the sale of the finished cloth. Visiting 1399 survey. town markets and fairs, they negotiated with merchants from By the 1470s though, there had been a significant shift in London and occasionally even from overseas. Consequently, production, with Bradford, Leeds, Wakefield, Halifax, clothiers needed a range of technical knowledge, from buying Huddersfield and surrounding villages in the West Riding wool to dyeing, as well as marketing skills. expanding at the expense of York, Beverley, Ripon and other Yorkshire was a centre of the industry from an early date. In the cloth producing areas in the North and East Ridings. Cloth- late twelfth century, Beverley, Kirkbymoorside, Malton, Thirsk, making was now increasingly in the hands of the clothiers, who Scarborough and York were granted a charter from King Henry II put-out raw and semi-finished materials to outworkers and restricting the manufacture of dyed and striped cloths within then marketed their cloth, selling to merchants, drapers and the county to within these boroughs. Cloth-making was also other traders. Textiles had become England’s leading industry practised in many small towns and rural communities, from and the country’s most valuable export, a major source of Halifax in the western Pennines to Hedon on the east coast, and wealth for individuals and their communities. from Wakefield in the south to Whitby on the north-east coast. JOHN LEE Commercial cloth production could be found within a handful of communities on the North York Moors. An inquisition was John Lee teaches for the Centre for Lifelong Learning at the drawn up in 1399 in response to complaints from the York University of York. He has recently published The Medieval Clothier . Weavers’ Guild that weavers and dyers outside the city and the For further details see: other boroughs which had received Henry II’s charter were https://boydellandbrewer.com/the-medieval-clothier.html

ORM OF KIRKBYMOORSIDE d n a w i k i W

N JULY the Kirkbymoorside History Group held its third Domesday Book is the record of the detailed survey of English annual Heritage Day and focused on people who had landholding conducted on the orders of William the Conqueror I contributed to the history of the town from Orm, who lived in 1086. One of its main purposes was to allow taxes to be almost 1,000 years ago, up to personalities who can be recalled collected efficiently. The Kirkbymoorside entry tells us that Orm from more recent living memory. was the Lord of the Manor and that he held five carucates of Orm has a special place in the heritage of the town as he is the land. A carucate is usually regarded as an area of roughly 120 earliest individual who we can link to Kirkbymoorside by name. acres (50 hectares) and so Orm owned an estate of land of This is because he is listed in Domesday Book in the entry for about 600 acres based on Kirkbymoorside. Kirkbymoorside which records – Orm and his father Gamal both have Scandinavian names and it is likely that the family was descended from Viking settlers in North Yorkshire. They may have originally been aristocratic warriors called This translates as – housecarls who helped King Canute conquer England in 1016 and who “In CHIRCHEBI (KIRKBY) Orm has 5 caracutes of land taxable” were given English landed estates as a reward for their military service.

VOICE OF THE MOORS – AUTUMN 2019 12 HEADLESS MYSTERIES SURROUND THE OLD TOWN HALL

ECENT survey work as a prelude to transforming Guisborough’s old Town Hall R into a top tourist attraction with high quality bunk-house accommodation aimed at walkers and cyclists has shown that earlier thoughts on the time line of the building may not be all that they seem from the date stone at the top of the building. Originally thought to be built as a two-storey building in 1821 on the site of an ancient toll booth, then extended to three floors in 1870, )

0 recent surveys by the project team have found that . 1

C the current building is composed of three very C (

l a

s different ones, with traces of the original toll booth r e v i

n still in situ and forming part of the original two U

0 . 1

storey building, which was followed by a complete 0 C C renovation and additional floor in 1870. s n o

m This suggests that the current building can trace m o C

e parts of it back much earlier than 1821. How far v i t a e

r back in history these stones from the original toll C

. 9

6 booth can be dated is unknown. In 1405 the head 2

. f

I of Sir John Falconberg was said to have been placed I I

5 on the toll booth for rebelling against the King. It is 1

l a y

o speculation but interesting to wonder if those R

, y r stones formed part of the building during such a r b i L macabre times. Were they there when the Priory h s i t

Dyeing cloth i r was destroyed by Henry VIII? Sadly, we may never B be able to answer these questions. But what is clear is that the foundations of the Town Hall go back much further than the date stone on the current building would have us believe…. …Another mystery the project team are keen to solve is the possibility that there is a cellar under A very influential person in Northumbria, Orm had married into the Town Hall. the leading aristocratic family of the region. His wife AEthelthryth was the daughter of Ealdred, the Earl of Readers may remember an earlier report which Northumbria and Orm’s brother-in-law then became Earl, thus suggested that there was a two-room cellar clad in enhancing Orm’s status. white tiles and used to store fish en route from 4 2

8 Whitby to Middlesbrough and beyond. Despite a full 1

Orm is best known in our local area because his name appears d a

e survey of the building, which included ground m on the Anglo-Saxon sundial above the door of St. Gregory’s t s

a penetrating radar, nothing was found. E

Minster, Kirkdale. . W

. v However, a more recent report suggests that there e R

s i

s may be truth in the rumour. It has been claimed that n e l l

a during the Second World War, when troops were v e i R

a stationed in camps on the outskirts of Guisborough, i r o t s

i a communications centre was established in the H

cellars under the Town Hall. More research o t o

h now needs to be carried out to verify this new P information, but if any The inscription reads: reader can help solve “Orm the son of Gamal acquired St. Gregory’s church when it this mystery, or shed was completely ruined and collapsed, and he had it built anew any light on the story, from the ground to Christ and to St. Gregory in the days of King Andy Murray, the Edward and in the days of Earl Tostig”. Project Chairman STEPHEN PEET would love to hear from you. He can be n o s d

r contacted at a

A fuller version of this article was first printed in the regular newsletter h c i Sunnyfield House, R

of the Kirkbymoorside History Group sent out free as an attachment to w e

r Westgate, d

an email three times a year. If you would like to receive your own regular n A Guisborough. © copy of the newsletter, please send a request by email to its editor at o t o [email protected] h KEN HORNER P

VOICE OF THE MOORS – AUTUMN 2019 13 BOOKS NYMA PUBLICATIONS

Many of you will be aware that NYMA is the publisher of various books of local interest. Below are three published most recently. As the festive season approaches, one (or more) would make an ideal Christmas gift for a relative or friend who loves the moors. Or perhaps a membership subscription to NYMA? (See page 2 for details).

WHEEL SHEDS OF THE NORTH YORK MOORS AND ADJACENT AREAS by David Hartley and Joan Hartley, edited by Robin Cook

This new publication is primarily the work of Joan Hartley who was born and lived all her life in and around the North York Moors. She and husband Charles devoted many hours capturing details of wheel sheds in their travels. Wheel sheds were developed as structures built to enclose a horse engine, usually circular but sometimes square or octagonal, attached to a threshing barn and mostly built in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The variety of styles is considerable as can be seen by the many examples shown in the book. Whilst researching the various wheel abundant and varied flora, particularly the Westerdale, Whitby, YO21 2DT, £15 per sheds, it is not hard to imagine the wild flowers. Carol Wilson, a resident of copy (P&P £2.25 extra). They are also couple being viewed with much suspicion Westerdale village, passionate botanist available from Danby Moors Centre shop by owners and farmers when driving up and lover of our native wild flowers, has and from Castleton Tea Rooms, High often muddy farm tracks asking to take over the past few years painstakingly Street, Castleton. photographs of the buildings! searched out and recorded all the species In addition to the wheel sheds, Joan of wild plants to be found growing there. THE HISTORY TREE This colossal piece of work has been a Hartley’s interest extended to observing labour of love and has culminated in the Memories in the Lifetime of a Memorable any proposed developments such as their publication of this comprehensive Tree edited by Janet Cochrane incorporation into existing farm buildings botanical handbook, in which the author and their conversion into dwellings. Until 2007, an iconic and cherished gives detailed information on over 350 However, many were in a poor condition, copper beech tree stood in the grounds of species of wild flowers as well as other gradually falling into disrepair and the Moors Centre, formerly Danby Lodge. plants and trees. without this record of their existence, When it had to be taken down, and also they would be lost forever. The attractive full-colour book has over to mark the 25th anniversary of NYMA, a 150 pages and 650 photos presented in a steel plate etched into the shape of the This albeit specialised subject (which also user-friendly layout using colour-coded bole and main branches of a truncated includes Joan’s own experiences as a sections making for easier identification tree, was placed in the ground where the young girl of “thrashing day”), will be of of the species under examination, tree had grown. Forty local and national interest to those keen on agricultural particularly for the less experienced or events which occurred during the life of history and development as well as the novice botanist. However, full Latin the tree were recorded on this plate. history of their local area. botanical nomenclature and a complete The History Tree book provides forty The book is available from local index of the common names are also carefully researched chapters which bookshops in the area, Amazon Books or included. There is an introductory section recount the topics in more detail and can be purchased directly for £13 (P&P on plant families, a useful glossary and offer opportunities for further research. £2.50 extra): from David Hartley Tel: guidance notes on where and at what Themes include literature, the sea, 01278 671488 Email: time of the year the wild plants can be exploration and endeavour, tragedy and [email protected] found. bravery, craftsmanship and creativity, Although the book is specifically intended nobility and royalty, cultural and THE WILD FLOWERS OF as a guide to the flora of Westerdale industrial heritage, the railway, science, WESTERDALE Parish, the species covereed can also be geology, forestry and much more. found in many other areas and therefore a botanical handbook by Carol M Wilson Copies are £7.50 and available at many the handbook can be used to advantage outlets across north-east Yorkshire. A full The parish of Westerdale is one of the as a practical botanical guide across the list can be found on the NYMA website. most beautiful and unspoilt areas of the whole of the NYMs National Park. They can also be purchased directly (P&P North York Moors National Park. Greatly Copies of the book can be purchased £2.50 extra) by completing the form on adding to the beauty of the area is the direct from Carol M Wilson, at Pinfold, the website.

VOICE OF THE MOORS – AUTUMN 2019 14 SKYLARKS

Now we are in Autumn, what has happened to the trees? What are trees called that lose their leaves? What are trees called that keep their leaves or needles? Use the activity below to learn more:

Find the letters on the trees above to spell out the type trees below (get a grown up to help if you need to).

A tree that loses its leaves is called D _ C _ D U _ U _ .

A tree that keeps its leaves or needles is called an E _ E R _ _ E _ N .

We enjoy including your pictures, stories and news, please keep sending them to [email protected]

CROSSWORD 86 BY AMANUENSIS

12 3 4 56 7 ACROSS 1 Nocturnal mammal goes round field with Mr Piggy (8) 8 5 Came about at the absolute peak (4) 9 Tripped over mountain side (4) 9 10 10 Art lover? (8) 11 Royal lager brew (5) 12 Morning recorder for current measure (7) 13 Political skills when America’s 50 go on male boat (13) 11 12 18 Response to awful creation (8) 19 Storage capacity to get your teeth into one hears? (4) 20 Opportunity novice found inside church (7)

13 14 15 16 17 21 Emblem of musteline mammal having tail docked? (5) 22 Extremely enthusiastic about small fruit (4) 23 Old wind instrument has strange hour amongst crop (8)

18 19 DOWN 2 First lady to take a break on top of the world (7) 3 Frugal lantern sheds light on chivalrous person (7) 20 21 4 Delivery man? (7,6) 6 The best quadrupedal sprinter (7) 7 One used by clear-sighted people perhaps? (3-4)

22 23 8 Holy man has last word on flower part (6) 13 Muslim races north with a combination (7) 14 The first man to join worker is determined (7) Take the letters from the coloured squares on the grid and 15 Attract apprentice at the end (6) rearrange to solve the anagram. 16 The week would not be complete without it (7) Clue: NYMs beauty spot that Wade was said to have had a big 17 A whole unit; not a fraction more or a fraction less! (6) hand in creating. (3, 4, 2, 6)

Answers on back cover

VOICE OF THE MOORS – AUTUMN 2019 15

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A M Y N

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r o t a n i d r o o C s k l a

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y r a t e r c e S n o i t a i c o s s

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r e r u s a e r T n o i t a i c o s s

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s r e b m e M l i c n u o

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n a m a e L n a i r d

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n a m r i a h C e c i

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