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ISBN 88-7062-805-188-7062-805-1 CONTENTS IntroductionIntroduction...................................................................................................................................7 7 Abbreviations A. Abbreviations used used in in thethe descriptiondescription of of textiles textiles .......................................................9 9 B. Bibliography .....................................................................................................................9 9 Textiles IntroductoryIntroductorynote note ..................................................................................................................13 13 TTl-T216 1-T 216 ...............................................................................................................................16 16 Concordance I. I. MuseumMuseum ofof FineFine ArtsArts textilestextiles byby InventoryInventory Number Number ................................88 88 Concordance II. II. MuseumMuseum of of AppliedApplied Arts Arts textiles textiles by by Inventory Inventory Number Number ....................89 89 Concordance III.III. Museum of Applied ArtsArts textilestextiles purchasedpurchased from Robert Forrer, Stras-Stras- bourg......................................................................................................................................91bourg 91 Plates............................................................................................................................................93Plates 93 INTRODUCTION In thisthis secondsecond volumevolume ofof thethe Coptic Coptic Antiquities Antiquities 217217 textilestextiles areare published published from from the the collec- collec- tions ofof twotwo BudapestBudapest museums:museums: thethe MuseumMuseum ofof Fine Fine Arts Arts and and the the Museum Museum of ofApplied Applied Arts. Arts. The 61 itemsitems publishedpublished fromfrom thethe collectioncollection ofof thethe MuseumMuseum ofof Fine Fine Arts Arts representrepresent thethe entire entire Coptic textiletextile materialmaterial ofof this museum. BeyondBeyond the 156156 CopticCoptic piecespieces publishedpublished herehere fromfrom thethe collection ofof the MuseumMuseum ofof AppliedApplied Arts, that museummuseum alsoalso possessespossesses aa numbernumber of of fabrics fabrics of of late Medieval datedate from Egypt.Egypt. TheseThese latterlatter werewere notnot includedincluded intointo this this catalogue. catalogue. Over 70 pices inin thethe CopticCoptic textiletextile collectioncollection ofof thethe Museum Museum of of Applied Applied Arts Arts come come from from the excavationsexcavations of RobertRobert ForrerForrer atat thethe cemeteries cemeteries of of Akhmim-Panopolis. Akhmim-Panopolis. TheThe remainderremainder waswas purchased over the coursecourse ofof thisthis century; century; somesome pieces pieces were were donated donated by by private private collectors, collectors, among them MaximilianMaximilian HerzHerz Bey,Bey, anan Austro-HungarianAustro-Hungarian inin KhedivialKhedivial serviceservice inin thethe early early years years of the century,century, whowho isis alsoalso knownknown asas aa collector collector of of Islamic Islamic ceramics. ceramics. FurtherFurther purchases purchases were were made in thethe mid-mid-1980's 1980's fromfrom the samesame privateprivate collectioncollection fromfrom whichwhich thethe bulkbulk ofof the the textiles textiles in thethe CopticCoptic collectioncollection ofof thethe MuseumMuseum ofof Fine Fine Arts Arts was was also also acquired acquired in in 1975, 1975, 1977 1977 and and 1984. 1984. The student ofof CopticCoptic textilestextiles should certainlycertainly not underestimateunderestimate thethe importanceimportance ofof the the fact fact that therethere areare overover seventyseventy fabricsfabrics publishedpublished herehere fromfrom oneone site,site, Akhmim.Akhmim. WhileWhile theirtheir chron-chron- ological distributiondistribution provides usus with indirect,indirect, butbut perhapsperhaps notnot accidental, accidental, informationinformation about about the chronologicalchronological range ofof thethe cemeteriescemeteries exploredexplored byby Forrer,Forrer, theirtheir stylistic stylistic range range further further strengthens our impressionimpression thatthat <local«local styles>styles» should bebe understoodunderstood lessless dogmaticallydogmatically thanthan isis usual in thethe literature.literature. TheThe artart historicalhistorical consequencesconsequences thatthat areare disperseddispersed inin thethe comments comments onon the individualindividual textiles could not be summarizedsummarized in greatergreater lengthlength here;here; II havehave attempted,attempted, how-how- ever, toto givegive a shortshort discussiondiscussion ofof thethe problemsproblems thatthat havehave emergedemerged inin connection connection withwith thethe fabrics catalogued here inin thethe Introductory Introductory Note Note below. below. I amam indebtedindebted toto Professor Professor János János Gyorgy György Szilagyi, Szilágyi, Keeper Keeper of of Classical Classical Antiquities, Antiquities, Museum Museum of Fine Arts, for countlesscountless adviceadvice during thethe writingwriting ofof thethe catalogue.catalogue. II am am similarly similarly indebted indebted to Mr.Mr. BoldizsárBoldizsár Csornay,Csornay, whose selfless helphelp during my work inin thethe MuseumMuseum ofof Fine Fine Arts Arts isis gratefully acknowledged.acknowledged. Special thanks areare duedue to to Dr. Dr. EmO'ke Emó'ke László,László, KeeperKeeper ofof Textiles Textiles inin the the Museum Museum of of Applied Applied Arts, and to thethe extremelyextremely helpfulhelpful staffstaff ofof thethe TextileTextile Collection in that Museum.Museum. Last,Last, butbut notnot least, I oweowe aa debtdebt toto Dr. Dr. Alice Alice M.M. ChoykeChoyke forfor thethe revision revision of of my my English English manuscript. manuscript. Budapest, DecemberDecember 1988.1988. L. Török 7 ABBREVIATIONS A. Abbreviations used in thethe descriptiondescription ofof textiles textiles Dm = diameter H = height L = length W = width S = S-spinning, i.e., i.e., fibers fibers twisted twisted so so thatthat the angle of the twisttwist inin relationrelation toto the the vertical vertical axis axis of of the the thread thread resembles the central strokestroke ofof thethe letterletter S S zZ = Z-spinning, i.e., i.e., fibers fibers twisted twisted so so that that thethe angle of the twisttwist inin relationrelation toto thethe vertical vertical axisaxis ofof the the thread thread resembles the central strokestroke ofof thethe letterletter Z Z 1I tapestry,tapestry, 2 tapestry,tapestry, 33 tapestrytapestry == anan indicationindication ofof the the number number of of warp warp threads threads around around which which the the wefts wefts are are passed passed in aa passagepassage ofof tapestry tapestry weaves weaves SzM preceding an inventory number == textiletextile inin thethe collection collection ofof the the Museum Museum of of Fine Fine Arts Arts IM preceding an inventoryinventory number == textiletextile inin the the collection collection of of the the Museum Museum of of Applied Applied Arts. Arts. B. BibliographyBibliography Abbreviations of periodicals accordingaccording toto ArchaologischeArchäologische BibliographieBibliographie 1979 by W. Herman (1980) X-XXKVIX-XXXVI. Age of Spirituality 19791979 K. WEITZMANNWeitzmann (ed.), (ed.), Age Age of ofSpirituality. Spirituality. Late Late Antique Antique and and Early Christian Art,Art, ThirdThird to SeventhSeventh Century.Century. Catalogue of thethe ExhibitionExhibition atat the the Metropolitan Metropolitan Museum Museum of of Art, Art, November 19,19, 1977,1977, throughthrough FebruaryFebruary 12, 12, 1978, 1978, New New York York 1979. 1979. Apostolaki 19321932 A. APOSTOLAKI,Apostolaki, Ta TaKoptika Koptika Hyphasmata Hyphasmata toutou enen AthenaisAthenais Mouseiou Mouseiou KosmetikOn Kosmetikòn Technón,TechnOn, Athens 1932.1932. Baginski-Tidhar 19801980 A. BAGINSKI-A.Baginski-A. Tidhar, TIDHAR, Textiles Textiles from from Egypt. Egypt. 4th 4th - -13th 13th CenturiesCenturies CE.,C.E., Jerusa-Jerusa- lem 1980.1980. Beckwith 19631963 J. BECKWITH,Beckwith, Coptic Coptic SculptureSculpture 300-1300,300-1300, LondonLondon 1963. 1963. Beckwith CIBACIBA 19591959 I.J. BECKWITH,Beckwith, Tissus Tissus coptes, coptes, Les Cahiers CIBACIBA 83,83, BaselBasel 1959. 1959. Benaki Guide SommaireSommaire 19811981 L. MARANGOU,Marangou, Koptika Koptika Hyphasmata. Hyphasmata. Coptic Coptic Textiles.Textiles. Guides SommairesSommaires BenakiBenaki