In 1733, James Kay, Invented a Simple Weaving Machine Called the Flying Shuttle. the Flying Shuttle Improved on the Old Hand Loom
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Study on Improving the Production Rate by Rapier Looms in Textile Industry Aby Chummar, Soni Kuriakose, George Mathew
ISSN: 2277-3754 ISO 9001:2008 Certified International Journal of Engineering and Innovative Technology (IJEIT) Volume 2, Issue 7, January 2013 Study on Improving the Production Rate by Rapier Looms in Textile Industry Aby Chummar, Soni Kuriakose, George Mathew the company. It is mainly manufactured by the shuttle looms. Abstract— In India the textile industry is growing very fast. Conventional shuttle looms are mainly used during the Most of the earlier established textile industries are using weaving process in the industry. All these shuttle looms are conventional shuttle looms for the production of the cloth. But the too old. In these present conventional shuttle looms, it is advancement in the technology made the textile industry more competitive. The effective usage of the new methods of the necessary to pass a shuttle weighing around half a kilogram weaving technology, which is more energy efficient, makes the through the warp shed to insert a length of weft yarn which production more economical. It is found out that the usage of the weighs only few grams. The shuttle has to be accelerated conventional looms badly affects the cloth production. This study rapidly at the starting of picking cycle and also to be focuses on identifying the problems associated with the low decelerated, stopped abruptly at the opposite end. This production by the shuttle loom and suggesting suitable methods process creates heavy noise and shock and consumes by which these problems can be reduced. considerable energy. Beat-up is done by slay motion which again weighs a few hundred kilograms. The wear life of the Index Terms—Greige Fabric Picks, Rapier Loom, Shuttle Loom. -
Textile Industry Needs Christopher D
The Journal of Cotton Science 21:210–219 (2017) 210 http://journal.cotton.org, © The Cotton Foundation 2017 ENGINEERING & GINNING Textile Industry Needs Christopher D. Delhom, Vikki B. Martin, and Martin K. Schreiner ABSTRACT lthough the immediate customer of the gin is Athe cotton producer, the end user of the ginned The immediate customers of cotton gins are lint is the textile mill, retailers, and eventually the the producers; however, the ultimate customers consumer. Thus, it is essential for the ginner to are textile mills and consumers. The ginner has satisfy both the producers and the textile industry. the challenging task to satisfy both producers and Consequently, the ginner needs to be aware of the the textile industry. Classing and grading systems needs of the textile industry. are intended to assign an economic value to the The intent of the cotton classing and grading bales that relates to textile mill demands and the system is to assign an economic value to the bale that quality of the end product. International textile documents its properties as it relates to the quality of mills currently are the primary consumers of U.S. the end product. Since the last edition of the Cotton cotton lint where it must compete against foreign Ginners Handbook in 1994, the customers of U.S. origins. International textile mills manufacture cotton have changed radically, shifting from primar- primarily ring-spun yarns, whereas domestic mills ily domestic to international mills. International mills manufacture predominantly rotor spun yarns. Pro- have been accustomed primarily to hand-harvested ducers and ginners must produce cottons to satisfy cotton that has been processed at slow ginning all segments of the industry, i.e., domestic and in- rates. -
Diary of William Owen from November 10, 1824 to April 20, 1825 Ed. by Joel W
Library of Congress Diary of William Owen from November 10, 1824 to April 20, 1825 ed. by Joel W. Hiatt. INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY PUBLICATIONS. VOLUME IV. NUMBER 1. DIARY OF WILLIAM OWEN From November 10, 1824, to April 20, 1825 EDITED BY JOEL W. HIATT LC INDIANAPOLIS: THE BOBBS-MERRILL COMPANY. 1906. 601 25 Pat 14 F521 .I41 114026 08 iii PREFACE. 3 456 Part 2 8 The manuscript of this diary of William Owen has remained in the hands of his only daughter—formerly Mary Francis Owen, now Mrs. Joel W. Hiatt—for many years and its existence, save to a few, has been unknown. It is fragmentary in form. It is possibly the close of a journal which had been kept for years before. Its first sentence in the original is an incomplete one, showing that there was an antecedent portion. The picture of the times is so graphic than the Indiana Historical Society publishes it, on account of its historical value. Mr. Owen was 22 years old at the time of its composition. Diary of William Owen from November 10, 1824 to April 20, 1825 ed. by Joel W. Hiatt. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.14024 Library of Congress William Owen was the second of four sons born to Robert and Ann Caroline Owen, of Scotland. Their names were Robert Dale, William, David Dale, and Richard. Three of them, Robert Dale, David Dale and Richard are known where ever the sun shines on the world of literature or science. William, who, because of habit or for his own amusement, wrote this diary is not known to fame. -
Reflecting Noble Luxury and Refinement, New Lightweight Wool Materials Are of Key Interest to Designers, Retailers and Bespoke Tailors
Reflecting noble luxury and refinement, new lightweight wool materials are of key interest to designers, retailers and bespoke tailors. Beyond demanding perfected fits and wool’s signature aesthetic, discerning consumers expect emotional, sensorial tactility in garments. Responding to luxury market demands, leading Italian and English spinners and weavers are introducing exclusive fine-micron yarns and fabrics, derived from rare Australian merino. Stylesight explores Baruffa Group’s finest wool yarns for first-class sweater knits, cut-and-sew jersey, and wovens. Vogue Australia December 2012 / Elizabeth Debicki in wool, on location at Haddon Rig, a Merino wool farm in New South Wales. With seductive, magnetic charm, lighter weight but often still densely constructed wovens and knits are key on men and women's runways and at textile trade shows. Wool—traditionally a winter fiber—evolves with cutting-edge superfine qualities from 150s and 180s up to 250s. Offering noble refinement and unique trans-seasonal possibilities, wool moves beyond its pastime connotations. Gossamer knits / Posh mesh / Lightweight jerseys / Dense, hefty yet lightweight wools Finest wool Fabrics F/W 13 Dormeuil Limited Edition - finest wool yarns Zegna Baruffa Lane Record Bale - finest wool fabric Loro Piana Borgosesia Finest wool Fabrics Taylor & Lodge Meticulous fiber selection from choice breeds, along with revolutionary spinning and weaving technologies, is core to new noble wool productions. Wools characterized by strength, elasticity, fluidity, low pilling and -
NBER WORKING PAPER SERIES PATH DEPENDENCE and the ORIGINS of COTTON TEXTILE MANUFACTURING in NEW ENGLAND Joshua L. Rosenbloom Wo
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Research Papers in Economics NBER WORKING PAPER SERIES PATH DEPENDENCE AND THE ORIGINS OF COTTON TEXTILE MANUFACTURING IN NEW ENGLAND Joshua L. Rosenbloom Working Paper 9182 http://www.nber.org/papers/w9182 NATIONAL BUREAU OF ECONOMIC RESEARCH 1050 Massachusetts Avenue Cambridge, MA 02138 September 2002 I thank Gavin Wright for his comments on an earlier version of this paper and Peter Temin and Doug Irwin for making available to me their data on cotton textile production and tariffs. The views expressed herein are those of the author and not necessarily those of the National Bureau of Economic Research. © 2002 by Joshua L. Rosenbloom. All rights reserved. Short sections of text, not to exceed two paragraphs, may be quoted without explicit permission provided that full credit, including © notice, is given to the source. Path Dependence and the Origins of Cotton Textile Manufacturing in New England Joshua L. Rosenbloom NBER Working Paper No. 9182 September 2002 JEL No. N6, N4 ABSTRACT During the first half of the nineteenth century the United States emerged as a major producer of cotton textiles. This paper argues that the expansion of domestic textile production is best understood as a path-dependent process that was initiated by the protection provided by the Embargo Act of 1807 and the War of 1812. This initial period of protection ended abruptly in 1815 with the conclusion of the war and the resumption of British imports, but the political climate had been irreversibly changed by the temporary expansion of the industry. -
Belper Mills Site
Belper North Mill Trust Outline masterplan for the renewal of the Belper Mills site February 2017 Belper North Mill Trust Outline masterplan for the renewal of the Belper Mills site Contents Page numbers 1 Introduction 1 2 Heritage significance 1 - 4 3 End uses 4 - 5 4 Development strategy 5 - 9 4.1 Phase 1 6 - 7 4.2 Phase 2 7 4.3 Phase 3 8 4.4 The end result 9 5 Costs of realisation 10 - 11 6 Potential financing – capital and revenue 11 - 15 6.1 Capital/realisation 11 - 12 6.2 Revenue sustainability 12 - 15 7 Delivery 15 - 16 Appendices 1 Purcell's Statement of Significance 2 Purcell's Feasibility Study Belper North Mill Trust Outline masterplan for the renewal of the Belper Mills site 1 Introduction As part of this phase of work for the Belper North Mill Trust we have, with Purcell Architects, carried out an outline masterplanning exercise for the whole Belper Mills site. At the outset, it is important to say that at the moment the site is privately owned and that while Amber Valley Borough Council initiated a Compulsory Purchase Order process in 2015, that process is still at a preliminary stage. This is a preliminary overview, based on the best available, but limited, information. In particular, access to the buildings on site has been limited; while a considerable amount of the North Mill is accessible because it is occupied, access to the East Mill, now empty, was not made available to us. Also, while we have undertaken some stakeholder consultation, we have not at this stage carried out wider consultation or public engagement, nor have we undertaken detailed market research, all of which would be essential to any next stage planning for the future of the site. -
Industrialism, Androids, and the Virtuoso Instrumentalist
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Los Angeles Performing the Mechanical: Industrialism, Androids, and the Virtuoso Instrumentalist A dissertation submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree Doctor of Musical Arts by Leila Mintaha Nassar-Fredell 2013 © Copyright by Leila Mintaha Nassar-Fredell 2013 ABSTRACT OF THE DISSERTATION Performing the Mechanical: Industrialism, Androids, and the Virtuoso Instrumentalist by Leila Nassar-Fredell Doctor of Musical Arts University of California, Los Angeles, 2013 Professor Robert S. Winter, Chair Transactions between musical androids and actual virtuosos occupied a prominent place in the music of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Instrumentalists and composers of instrumental music appropriated the craze for clockwork soloists, placing music in a position of increased social power in a society undergoing rapid technological transformation. The history of musical automata stretches back to antiquity. Androids and automata, vested by audiences with spiritual and magical qualities, populated the churches of the broader populations and the Renaissance grottos of the aristocracy. As ii the Industrial Revolution began, automata increasingly resembled the machines changing the structure of labor; consequently, androids lost their enchanted status. Contemporary writers problematized these humanoid machines while at the same time popularizing their role as representatives of the uncanny at the boundaries of human identity. Both instrumental performers and androids explored the liminal area between human and machine. As androids lost their magic, musical virtuosos assumed the qualities of spectacle and spirituality long embodied by their machine counterparts. In this process virtuosi explored the liminal space of human machines: a human playing a musical instrument (a machine) weds the body to a machine, creating a half-human, half-fabricated voice. -
A Special and Unusual Loom Frame from the First Half of the Nine
FINDING THE THREAD RESTORATION OF A PROFESSIONAL WEAVER'S LOOM Rabbit Goody A special and unusual loom frame from the first half of the nine teenth century now in the collection of the Ontario Agricultural Mu seum, Milton, Ontario,1 has provided an opportunity to examine some of the specialized equipment used by weavers in the nineteenth century to weave cloth with speed, intricate geometric patterns, and/or accommodate longer lengths of cloth. Surviving examples of cloth have made it apparent that trained weavers, weaving fancy cloth during the nineteenth century were using more complex equipment than that commonly associated with home textile produc tion. However, until now surviving examples of the equipment have been scarce. The museum's loom is one of a small number that can be linked to the production of the more complex cloths of this pe riod. At least, it has specialized equipment which professional weavers might choose to place on their looms. It is the most com plete example currently known. In their book, "Keep Me Warm One Night", Dorothy and Harold Burnham have identified this loom as being a professional weaver's loom because of its specialized features.2 It is being restored for the purpose of reproducing some of the more intricate cloth woven by professional weavers in the Niagara Peninsula. The survival of this loom frame, with its special features, has made it possible to set certain criteria for identifying other looms used by professionals and to corroborate the descrip tions of equipment and methods found in publications and manuscripts from the last half of the eighteenth century and early nineteenth century used to weave fancy cloth rapidly by profes sionals. -
Read Threads of Life. Khadi in Oaxaca Here
www.selvedge.org ISSUE 95 UK £12.50 USA $28.95 RTW £20.50 EUROPE €23 THE FABRIC OF YOUR LIFE THE FABRIC OF YOUR LIFE: HERITAGE 95 MAKE OUR STORIES PART OF YOUR STORY THREADS OF LIFE Khadi in Oaxaca The khadi movement is thriving in the Sierra that made a lasting impression on him. ‘When I first textile industry remains a slow educational process Sur Mountains of Oaxaca, Mexico. In the remote came here everybody had sheep and spun wool on and the long-term goal they plan to achieve. Zapotec village of San Sebastian Rio Hondo, their drop spindles; they wove blankets and women spin organic cotton on the Charkha, the ponchos on backstrap looms. This was part of their Marcos, who’s a spinner and weaver, brought the wooden spinning wheel that was the embodiment tradition’. He remained in San Sebastian and shared first spinning wheel from India. Today, they are made of Gandhi’s vision for a new India. Khadi, the fabric the life of the Ramirez family until this village life by the local master carpenters and the 200 spinners of freedom is woven on backstrap and pedal looms experience took him to India, to Gandhi’s Ashram working for Khadi own their charkha. ‘The spinning with white or pre-Hispanic brown cotton grown on the Sabarmati River. Travelling with Gandhian wheel is five times faster than the native drop on the Pacific Coast. Ponchos and huipiles, the old men in Gujarat, he saw empowered villages spindles and it’s very relaxing. With a spinning wheel indigenous sleeveless tunics worn by women in growing their food, weaving and making their own you are using the left and right brain hemispheres, so Mexico and Central America, are hand-stitched clothes. -
Spinning and Weaving of Flax and Wool
The Museum | The Village Hall | The Research Library | The Museum Shop Spinning and Weaving of Flax and Wool 1 – Flax Plant Linen is made from a plant called flax. The plants were usually harvested in August. The plants were laid out to dry in the sun and then the seed pods were pulled off. The stalks were bound into bundles and soaked in a stream or pond for several days. Then the fibers were taken from the plant, combed and spun into thread on a spinning wheel. Then the thread was woven into cloth. 2 – Wool Wool comes from sheep that were usually sheared in the spring. Men and older boys usually did this job. The wool was combed, washed and rubbed with grease then spun into thread on a spinning wheel and then woven into cloth. 3 – Carding Colonial women and children used cards to straighten out the curly wool of the sheep. A card consisted of a piece of wood with a handle and it had nails or needle like objects driven through the back to the front of the card. They would put in a handful of wool on a card and then use another card to comb the wool back and forth until it was as straight and soft as possible. The wool was then ready for the spinning wheel. 4 – Spinning Wheels Spinning wheels were used to turn the flax and wool fibers into thread. The larger of the spinning wheels is for wool and the small one is for flax. 5 – Loom came from the Pike Haven Foster house. -
Current and Future Trends in Yarn Production1
Volume 2, Issue 2, Spring 2002 CURRENT AND FUTURE TRENDS IN YARN PRODUCTION1 William Oxenham, Ph.D. College of Textiles, North Carolina State University ABSTRACT While developments in yarn manufacturing continue to be promoted by machinery makers, spinners are challenged to produce the best quality yarn at an acceptable price. This often results in a compromise, since improved yarn quality can usually only be achieved at a higher processing cost (including raw material selection). An additional difficulty is that the significance of the various attributes of quality change for different yarn’s end uses. While the solution to lowering yarn costs, that has been adopted in recent years has been to create large, almost fully automated spinning mills, this philosophy is presently being questioned, since this significantly reduces flexibility with respect to the fiber and yarn type that can be processed. This is obviously at odds with the current paradigm of customer driven, quick response manufacturing, since this demands inherent flexibility in the successful supplier. This paper reviews the current state of technological innovation in yarn production and examines the relative merits and disadvantages of each system. Some insight will also be given concerning those factors that limit further development of some of these systems. Historical trends in US yarn production have also been surveyed, and the combined information obtained is used as an indicator of the future directions in this key industry. KEYWORDS: Yarn Production, Spinning, Vortex Spinning, Centrifugal Spinning 1. INTRODUCTION shortcomings in certain aspects of yarn and fabric quality (Figure 2). This aspect Research into new technology for yarn cannot be over stressed since while ring formation peaked in the 60’s & 70’s. -
Prices and Profits in Cotton Textiles During the Industrial Revolution C
PRICES AND PROFITS IN COTTON TEXTILES DURING THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION C. Knick Harley PRICES AND PROFITS IN COTTON TEXTILES DURING THE 1 INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION C. Knick Harley Department of Economics and St. Antony’s College University of Oxford Oxford OX2 6JF UK <[email protected]> Abstract Cotton textile firms led the development of machinery-based industrialization in the Industrial Revolution. This paper presents price and profits data extracted from the accounting records of three cotton firms between the 1770s and the 1820s. The course of prices and profits in cotton textiles illumine the nature of the economic processes at work. Some historians have seen the Industrial Revolution as a Schumpeterian process in which discontinuous technological change created large profits for innovators and succeeding decades were characterized by slow diffusion. Technological secrecy and imperfect capital markets limited expansion of use of the new technology and output expanded as profits were reinvested until eventually the new technology dominated. The evidence here supports a more equilibrium view which the industry expanded rapidly and prices fell in response to technological change. Price and profit evidence indicates that expansion of the industry had led to dramatic price declines by the 1780s and there is no evidence of super profits thereafter. Keywords: Industrial Revolution, cotton textiles, prices, profits. JEL Classification Codes: N63, N83 1 I would like to thank Christine Bies provided able research assistance, participants in the session on cotton textiles for the XII Congress of the International Economic Conference in Madrid, seminars at Cambridge and Oxford and Dr Tim Leung for useful comments.