Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei
© Lonely Planet 305 Terengganu Some places evoke a colour. In this case Terengganu is, far and away, blue. The rich robin’s- egg blue of big skies bending under clear, bright sunlight. The deep, royal blue of the ocean running behind ferries to tropical paradise. The turtle-dotted teal of shallow lagoons and horseshoe bays lapping the sugar sands in Pulau Perhentian (the Perhentian Islands). And the organic, vegetative green-blue of Lake Kenyir, vine-shrouded in its jungle womb. Blue is a cooling colour, and the general laid-back vibe of Terengganu makes for a cool- ing escape – something about the slow pace of life makes relaxed sighs some of the most common means of communication here. Most travellers come to the state for an island experience, and they’re in the right spot: some of the best beaches in the country can be found on Pulau Perhentian, Pulau Redang and Pulau Kapas. Divers in particular are well cared for here, but if you’re up for doing nothing at all, Terengganu will indulge your indolence. But don’t completely dismiss mainland Terengganu from your exploration. This is one of the most ethnically Malay states in the country, and you have the opportunity here to engage the Malay people at, simultaneously, their most traditional, their most evolving – note the waves of modernity replacing the traditional stilt houses of Kuala Terengganu, the capital, with air-con condos – and their most Islamic. They’re also, we’d note, at their most friendly when dealing with travellers who’ve wandered off the beach.
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