Need to Know 2

1 Need to Know 2

First Time in Malaysia Dos and Don’ts Need to Know • Passport: Your passport should be valid for six For detailed information, see Travellers’ Helpdesk on p234 months upon arrival in Malaysia and must have at Cover your head, least three blank pages. shoulders, arms and legs when visiting a mosque. • Visa: Indians require a visa to enter Malaysia. Quick Facts Visa applications are handled by VFS Global (www. Serve yourself from the vfsglobal.com/malaysia/india) and need to be communal plate with Languages submitted at any of their offices in India. For more utensils, never your fingers. Malay, English, Chinese dialects, Tamil information see p236 Use only your right hand • Flights: Malaysian Airlines, Air India, Jet Airways, Time Thai Airways and Singapore Airlines are amongst a if eating with your fingers. Malaysia Standard Time is 2½ hours host of carriers flying non-stop from India to Kuala ahead of IST. Lumpur. Check for online deals: it’s possible to get Embrace or kiss in public. return tickets under `30,000 if you book in advance. Currency Point with your forefinger. Malaysian ringgit (RM). Malaysians Health & Safety Instead, use the thumb of may refer to ringgit as ‘dollars’. • Take out health insurance. your right hand with fingers folded under. Mobile Phones • Pack medications in their original, clearly-labelled containers. International roaming is expensive. Try and shake hands with Cheap prepaid SIM cards (RM8.50; • Carry a signed and dated letter from your Malay women; smile and passport required) are widely available. physician describing your medical conditions and nod or bow slightly instead. medications, including their generic names. Offer alcohol or pork to Internet Access • If you have a heart condition bring a copy of your Muslims (and don’t mention Internet cafes are common in tourist ECG taken just prior to travelling. pork to Muslims). centres. Wi-fi access is widespread in hotels and cafes. • Avoid drinking tap water. Stick your chopsticks • Malaysia is generally safe for travellers; follow the upright in a bowl of rice; it Tourist Information precautions you normally would at home. symbolises death to the Tourism Malaysia (+603 9235 Chinese. 4848/4900; www.tourismmalaysia. Advance Planning gov.my; 109 Jalan Ampang, 50450 • One month before: Book your air ticket and Kuala Lumpur). accommodation; start planning your itinerary.

• Three weeks before: Apply for your visa and confirm accommodation. Underwater beauty at the • One week before: Scan or photocopy all important documents (passport, driving When to Go diving hub of Sipadan licence etc). Search local websites for special events or festivals during your stay. • December–February (high season): End-of-year school holidays and Chinese New Year push up prices; advance transport and hotel bookings What to pack are important. It’s monsoon season for the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia and • Light wash-and-wear clothes. Pack light and take advantage of cheap laundry western Sarawak. services. • July–November (mid season): From July to August vie with visitors escaping the heat • A warm top and jacket for over-air-conditioned places and the cool highland regions. of the Gulf countries. The end of Ramadan (Hari Raya) also sees increased travel activity. • Slip-on shoes or sandals for quick removal when entering mosques and temples. • March–June (low season): Avoid the worst of the rains and humidity; plus you can enjoy places without the crush of fellow tourists. • Other handy items: A small torch, waterproof money/passport container, insect repellent, leech socks (if planning jungle hikes), earplugs, SPF30+ sunscreen and a travel umbrella.

purchase. A treasure house of souvenirs is Central 12 Top Experiences Market (p80), based in a lovely art-deco building, where you’ll also find a selection of saris, batiks and traditional handicrafts. Fake-authentic designer wear abounds in Jalan Petaling Street Market (p81); those who’d rather splurge on the real thing can pop into high-end malls such as Pavilion KL (p77) or Suria KLCC (p69). KL’s malls are famous, but I loved the experience of browsing for souvenirs and knick-knacks on the streets of Chinatown. Ankita Verma, physiotherapist, New Delhi

3 Luxuriating in Langkawi 1 Street Food Pulau Langkawi (p118) isn’t called the Jewel of Kedah for nothing. Its In Malaysia the best food is served by the countless mobile carts, stalls and white-sand beaches, isolated resorts, acclaimed diving and pristine jungles shops on the street, many employing age-old recipes and techniques. On a live up to the metaphor. Cheap drinks (Langkawi is duty-free) and a decent single lane you’re likely to encounter Malay, regional Chinese, south Indian restaurant and bar scene provide a hint of party vibe, while a surfeit of kid- and Western cuisines. We reckon the best street food is found in Penang’s friendly activities, such as the famous Panorama Langkawi cable car ride, hawker centres (p111), but Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu are not far make it a great destination for families. behind. For street food in air-con environs, walk into the popular Lot 10 Hutong (p75) in KL; for an authentic Southeast Asian experience, nothing Langkawi can be sleepy or buzzing – it all depends beats the Night Market (p191) food stalls at Kota Kinabalu. on what you seek out. It’s gorgeous, yes, but I also found it to be surprisingly upbeat. Don’t miss the nasi kandar served all across KL and Tina Sharma, broadcast journalist and author, New Delhi most famously in Penang. This is an eclectic mix of Indian-Muslim food served Malaysian style. Ananda Bose, consultant, Singapore

2 Shopping in Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur’s myriad malls, traditional fresh-produce markets and atmospheric night markets mean that you’ll never be far from a must-have © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sample chapter All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. 5 Malaysia at a Glance 6 Malaysia at a Glance Wildlife-rich jungles, idyllic islands, cool hill stations, culinary sensations and 21st-century metropolises beckon for your attention in Malaysia. This section takes you through the must-visit regions, with planned trips, or itineraries. THE PERHENTIANS & THE EAST COAST Some of Southeast Asia’s loveliest and most accessible islands, perfect for diving, snorkelling and relaxing; Malay culture abounds in East Coast towns like Kota Bharu.

BEST OF THE SOUTH PENANG & LANGKAWI Cuisine and P146 History, culture and culture rule in Penang, especially in World P96 architecture in Melaka; Heritage-listed George Town. Langkawi is P128 shopping and Legoland a synonym for ‘tropical paradise’. in Johor; pristine beaches P60 P166 and villages in Pulau P186 Tioman.

TAMAn NEGARA, THE HILL STATIONS & AROUND The primeval jungles of Taman Negara KUALA LUMPUR contrast with the colonial Iconic skyscrapers loom charm of the Cameron over modern malls, Highlands and heritage colourful local markets, MALAYSIAN BORNEO Tropical forests, cities such as Taiping lively hawker stalls, green canopy walks, challenging mountains and Ipoh. spaces and excellent and close encounters with orang-utans, museums. plus exciting cities like Kuching.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sample chapter All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. 7 The Perhentians & the East Coast 8 The Perhentians & the East Coast

Why Go? The main draws of Malaysia’s beautiful east coast are the tantalising islands offshore, including the Perhentian Islands and Pulau Redang. Azure waves, powdery white sands and matchless coral and marine life await in these diving hotspots. Inland are distinctively Malay cities like Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu, as well as bucolic villages, beaches, a sanctuary for fireflies and Southeast Asia’s largest man-made lake.

Getting There & Away Air: Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia and Firefly fly to KL and other destinations from Kota Bharu’s Sultan Ismail Airport. The latter two often offer specials that make flying almost as cheap as taking a bus.Pulau Redang Airport is served by Berjaya Air, which has daily flights to KL, Kuala Terengganu and Singapore. Kuala Terengganu Airport has connections to KL, Pulau Redang and Singapore.

Bus: Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu are well connected to major cities in Malaysia. Both are an eight-hour bus journey (RM40) from KL.

Boat: All the islands are reached by boat from gateway towns (p148).

Top 5 Highlights • Kota Bharu (p149): Stronghold of Malay culture and handicrafts.

• The Perhentian Islands (p148): Two gorgeous getaways with amazingly varied beaches.

• Pulau Redang (p164): Popular resort and diving package destination.

• Taman Tamadu Islam (p160): Theme park near Kuala Terengganu.

• Penarik Firefly Sanctuary (p163): A firefly-lit boat tour at night.

Aerial view of a Malaysian East Coast island

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sample chapter All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. 9 The Perhentians & the East Coast 10

Getting Around the Region The Perhentians & • Air: Berjaya Air has flights between Kuala Terengganu and Pulau Redang. • Boat: Speedboats will take you out to the islands, although less so during the the East Coast rainy season (November to Februrary). See opposite page for details on the Most people fly toK ota Bharu (p149) and head straight to the Perhentians. various gateway towns/villages to the different islands. However, if you stick around, you can explore the excellent museums and • Bus: A good way to get between urban centres along east-coast and inland craft centres in the city. The Perhentian Islands (p154) are a pair of islands destinations. that tick all the boxes marked paradise, and are famous for diving and • Taxi & shared taxi: Faster and with more flexible options than the bus. snorkelling. Those who love this activity should consider other eastern island escapes (p164) – Pulau Redang and Pulau Kapas are best visited as package tours, while Pulau Lang Tengah is a quieter getaway. All three islands are accessible from Kuala Terengganu (p160), a city that also offers nearby Kota Bharu 1 day attractions such as the Penarik FireflyS anctuary and Tasik Kenyir (p163), Southeast Asia’s largest manufactured lake dotted with over 300 islands. A convenient overnight stop en route to the Perhentians, the Muslim city of Kota Bharu is in the northeastern state of Kelantan, a stronghold of Malay #\ Tumpat museums % #Sultan Ismail culture. Tour the ( 09 748 2266; www.kelantan.muzium.net), Petra Airport #\ around the central Padang Merdeka (Independence Field) and you’ll come Kota Bharu SOUTH Pasir 1 CHINA #\ Bachok away a semi-expert in Malay culture and history. Colourful traditional Mas #\ SEA 0 30 km 0 15 miles Peringat #\ #\ Jelawat The Perhentian markets selling food and crafts are another highlight; make sure you join Islands #\ the locals for a Malay feast at the night market (p152). The next morning, Ketereh Pulau 2 Tok Bali Perhentian Pulau Kuala Besut #\ Kecil take a taxi to (p151) for the speedboat to the Perhentians. Pasir # Perhentian Besar Puteh Kuala Pulau Redang 1 Istana Jahar (Museum) #\ Besut #\ # Pulau Airport #\ Tanah #\ Lang # Kota Bharu’s best museum is housed in an extraordinarily Machang Raja Pulau Merah #\ Tengah Redang #\ beautiful chocolate brown building (1887). The exhibits focus Jerteh #\Temangan on Kelatan’s rituals and crafts, from detailed descriptions of Baharu batik-weaving to elaborate traditional ceremonies. Penarik Firefly #\ Sanctuary #\Penarik Royal Ceremonies Museum; Jln Istana; adult/child RM3/1.50; Kuala Krai #\ # #] 8.30am–4.45pm Sat–Thu Buloh #\ Merang #\ keruak Kuala Terengganu 2 Istana Batu (Museum) Airport #\ # The pale-yellow Istana Batu was constructed Highlights S Tong Seberang #\ # #\ 1 #\Lalok Takir Kuala in 1939 and was formerly the crown prince’s Istana Jahar 3 Terengganu TERENGGANU palace. The richly furnished rooms give an 2 Istana Batu #\ Teris #\ Marang intimate insight into royal life, with family 3 Bank Kerapu 4 Itineraries #\ photos and personal belongings (including Muzium Islam Tasik Matang 1 Kota Bharu (1 day) Kenyir Ajil the late sultan’s hat collection) scattered 5 Kampung Kraftangan #\ #\ 2 Kuala Berang 6 The Perhentian Islands (2 days) Merchang #\ among the fine china and chintzy sofas. Muzium Negeri Kalanta 3 Kuala Terengganu (1 day) Royal Museum; Jln Istana; adult/child RM2/1;