2 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008

TABLE OF CONTENTS EDITORIAL MASTHEAD

I think I speak for everyone here when I write this: The Reykjavík Grapevine HOLY FUCK! The last few weeks have wrecked Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík Articles more havoc on this country than anything that’s www.grapevine.is not directly caused by a natural disaster. Our [email protected] Getting more serious economy has been reduced to the standards East- Published by Fröken ehf. 06 Director Óskar Jónasson on his latest offspring Reykjavík-Rotterdam ern Europe at end of the Cold War. As a nation, we are more or less bankrupt. Editorial: Cluture Of Waste Credit crunch. It almost has nice ring to it, +354 540 3600 / [email protected] 06 A New Yorker Gives her point of view doesn’t it? Sounds like it could be a cereal brand Advertising: rather than the end of an era. Currency crisis. It’s +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Blades of Glory a little alarming, but still. Cancel Christmas. Now, Publisher: 08 Iceland is fast becoming an international hockey powerhouse that is a serious statement, but right now, it seems +354 540 3601 / [email protected] to be the only viable option we have. Bomb IT! Thousands of people will be affected by Publisher: 08 A Lesson in Graffiti Culture from Director Jon Reiss this crisis, both in Iceland and abroad. Homes are Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] facing unemployment; unbearable mortgage pay- Editor: More Monsters and Mythical Beings ments, inflation and massive disruption to daily Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] 10 Miklabæjar-Sólveig life caused the uncertainty of the situation. I keep Assistant Editor: hearing that this is not the time to assign blame or Haukur S. Magnússon / [email protected] The Couchsurfing Culture look for culprits, but I don’t agree. I want to… nay Contributing Writers: 10 The ultimate social networking site owes its existence to Iceland – I need to – see someone hang for this. Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] But there is not much we can do at this point. Valur Gunnarsson / www.myspace.com/valurgunnarsson HOw To succeed in Modern business Except try our best to forget about the whole thing Ben H. Murray / [email protected] 11 Lesson from the Icelandic Voyage and party like there is no tomorrow, which at this Editorial Interns: point seems like a possible outcome. Luckily, Ice- Desiree Andrews / [email protected] A 13th Century Rebel land Airwaves is just around the corner. Florian Zühlke / [email protected] 12 Examining the politics of Snorri Sturluson I’ll see you there. I’ll be the guy at the end of James Crugnale / [email protected] the bar, counting his last krona and crying into his Marcus Walsh / [email protected] Desertification way up north beer. Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson / [email protected] 16 Brant Bjork and the Bros. concert review Stevie Ward / [email protected] Art Director: Life Will Never Suck Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] 17 Skátar concert review Design: Jóhannes Kjartansson / www.joi.is Spam Alert! Photographer: 18 Icelandic criminals may try to defraud you Gunnlaugur A. Sigurðsson (GAS) / [email protected] Marketing Director: Icelandic fish in all its forms Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 19 Say hello to your new diet Sales Director: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] 32C Distribution: 20 Airwaves artist to watch Vigdís Jónsdóttir / [email protected] Proofreader: Direct and brutal Macbeth Jim Rice 23 Bring out your dead! THE COVER Press releases: [email protected] Submissions inquiries: Features [email protected] Subscription inquiries: The Skeleton Economy +354 540 3605 / [email protected] 14 During a two week period our ecconomy was reset to the Stone Age General inquiries: . [email protected] The last great depression 15 The Laissez-faire dream is over. Founders: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Destinations Valur Gunnarsson The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year Akureyri by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, 42 A day trip to Iceland´s second city and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part A trip to the south coast without the written permission of the publishers. The 44 Why it should be your next destination cover illustration Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Köddi Hristbjörns Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at British prude to Icelandic Nude ASSISTANCE key locations along road #1, and all major tourist attrac- 45 A visit to Sundhöll Jói Kjartans tions and tourist information centres in the country. Siggi Eggertsson You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).

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LETTERS Sour Grapes

Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected] or text +354 893 9589

I was very interested to read the article DUDE ARE BANKS STILL IN CONTROL? published in the March edition regard- I am reading some crazy stuff :( ing racism in Iceland. I moved to Iceland How are things? from the UK 13 months ago and left after 10 months. During that time I worked in Anthony Johnson a highly professional and well regarded capacity and dutifully payed my taxes. Dear Anthony, I did make an inital effort to learn the To be honest, I don’t really have any idea. language but recieved several dispiriting None of us do. We are all pretty much at a setbacks very early on that has reduced loss here, and in more ways than one. my enthusiasm. I find Icelanders initially very friendly but only to a point and it That said, things are fine – life is good. seems impossible to pass this point. The weather today was beautiful, I just Whenever i have tried to use Icelandic stole the new Jesu EP off some blog and my pronounciation has intentionally or us at the office also figured out that even unintentionally not been understood if everything goes to hell, we still have and several times I have been asked why enough fish, sheep and potatoes around I dont just speak english! I find Iceland to feed the 300.000 of us for a long, long very insular and the views of many of its time. inhabitants discriminatory. I have been especially disappointed with treatment So let’s celebrate and have us some of polish immigrants who seem to be drinks, yeah? blamed for all that is wrong in Icelandic society. In the UK we have a long proud tradition of integrating other nationali- ties and cultures and I feel that Iceland Hey Grapevine! has some learning and growing up to do before it can be included in a modern First, let me thank you for running such Europe. Of course this is not everybody, an excellent publication. I have been as I have met and worked with some fan- visiting your country on and off for the tastic Icelandic people whom I hope to past decade, and I can proudly say I’ve keep in touch with. My views expressed been following you guys since your first here refer to the society as a whole and issue. It’s proven a tremendous resource in no way reflect my opinion of individu- on what’s going on over there and has als. helped me make some great choices when it comes to travel and nightlife Many thanks for allowing me to voice my (thanks for the Greenland tip, BTW). opinion. Your web-site is also looking swell these days. Regards Simon Fayers The reason I write you now is to enquire whether I can submit an article for print Greetings Simon, in the paper. I have been keeping exten- Thank you for your informative letter. It’s sive travelouges of my visits, and some also good to hear you paid your taxes. of them are pretty funny if I say so my- Maybe they will help in subsidizing the self. Do you take reader submissions? Do black hole of debt some of our well-mean- you pay for them? Can I be a part of your ing billionaire playboys have plunged us team? into. Sincerely, Your points on racism are also welcomed. Stephen Lewis It is kind of amusing to read so many grand statements about an entire nation Dear Stephen, of people in a letter denouncing racism. Thank you for your kind and encouraging Reykjavík But I digress. There are some real pricks words. We try our best to make the paper floating around downtown, and I am as good as possible, and sometimes we sorry to hear you had to confront some succeed. It’s good to know you’re paying Welcome Card of them. So, on behalf of my bankrupt na- attention. tion, I apologize. Enjoy the Thermal Pools, Museums, Of course we welcome and encourage It was good to have you. any and all reader submissions. Just Public Transport and discounts. send whatever’s on your mind to editor@ grapevine.is - and that goes for the rest of you as well. We pay as much as we can, which isn’t a lot, but I guess it depends on where you live.

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BSI Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / Phone: +354 562-1011 / [email protected] / www.re.is 6 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 opinion BY Aina Fuller Interview BY Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson — PHOTO BY GAS

Culture of Waste

Before arriving here, my strongest impressions of Iceland came from news panoramas about this geo- thermal-powered, arctic paradise. This is a country that brings the environmentally laced version of the word "green" to a whole new, inspirational level. Yet, upon actually stepping foot into an otherwise lovely Nordic society, I encountered this glaring paradox: a "green" country whose small roads are crowded with almost as many cars as there are Icelandic people (most of them being gas-guzzling SUV's), and whose worldly duty to separate the trash into recyclables Getting More Serious seems sparse, at best. I mean, really, I've never seen so many Styrofoam cups used, without remorse, to Director Óskar Jónasson talks about the flaky storytelling business simply feed a country's caffeine addiction. As a New Yorker, my ability to judge too quickly and his latest offspring, Reykjavík-Rotterdam is simultaneously an instinct, a talent, and an Achil- les heel that I've attempted to shed upon relocation. So, in spite of these offenses, I retract said judgments. I rationalise by highlighting Iceland's knack for car- Rumours had been going around but at the end I realised that it hadn’t been funded I think, in my case at least, you always think af- bon neutralizing, (planting enough trees for every that the roughest Icelandic flick as properly as it should have and when I ended up terwards that you should’ve given yourself more person in multitude). And okay, perhaps the rocky penniless I decided to emphasize more on televi- time in the preparation process. Once you begin to date was being screened in landscape and unpredictable weather necessitate sion for some time. Soon I was able to forge myself rehearsing and shooting you see your script mis- the use of such monster cars. cinemas near you, so Grapevine into the TV business and later I directed series such takes materialise before your eyes. Even sometimes There remains one paradox, however, that I caught up with the man who cre- as “Fóstbræður” and “Svínasúpan” when you’re doing a scene you know already you’re simply cannot overlook because it strikes, what I ated all the fuss, Óskar Jónasson, Comedy has always surrounded your work never going to use it, not in a million years, that’s consider, the most prized parts and processes of my who happily invited us into his but your most recent pieces, i.e. Reykjavík- really an untenable feeling. It’s of course difficult body: my stomach, my taste buds, and my ability to Rotterdam and also “Svartir Englar” is dead to write a good screenplay but it’s just as hard to safe haven. enjoy food to an almost criminal level. I'm not talking serious, what made you switch tracks? read it right, to understand what those replicas re- about traditional Icelandic cuisine, which I've come I think it inevitably happens when you get older, ally stand for and how this will look on the screen. to embrace with my daily helpings of Skyr and Hard- Tell me, how did you end up making movies? when you start taking things more seriously. But to It’s really hard to tell. fisk. I'm talking about food waste. It all started when I studied at the predecessor of tell you the truth it was never a particular aim to And how do you like the final result of Reyk- I can only assume that with slogans like what’s nowadays called the Icelandic Academy be a comedy director, it kind of just happened. Re- javík-Rotterdam? Are you at peace with it? "Choose Icelandic," the people couldn't be prouder of the Arts, but at the time me and a couple of my cently I wanted to change course and start to take I am, really. But you don’t stop meditating your of their ability to grow food in this difficult, temperate friends were in this band called Oxmó. Making mu- on things that actually matter to people in real life, work even though you’ve already premiered and climate. Why, then, oh fabulous land that I now call sic wasn’t our only task though, we’d make gigantic things that are closer and more powerful. Comedy I’m always spotting a few new things that could’ve home, do I encounter so much food waste here? sculptures all over town and several other deeds tends to be a bit transient, all about the moment, worked out better. When I watch old pieces I’ve In a food waste survey of approximately 500 but at last we made a film called “Oxmóplánetan”, then it’s over. Somewhat like fast food. made I honestly squirm around, there are so many families, conducted by Sorpa, 70% of Icelandic house- a sort of a sci-fi flick, extremely raw and barbaric To move over to your new piece “Reykjavík-Rot- scenes that could’ve been better. I try hard to avoid holds admit to regularly throwing away some portion but nevertheless very amusing. This turned out to terdam”, could you tell me how it all began? seeing my old works, it’s intolerable. of their food. Compound this for every household in be such a blast that we decided to keep at it and so The process started about 7 years ago when I heard Iceland, and suddenly that seemingly little bit of trash when we finished shooting we decided to fabricate an interview with an old sailor and a smuggler who accounts for a landfill full of unnecessary waste, and a full-length film which bore the arousing name had for sure ‘been around’ over his years and it im- a hole in your bank account that could have been “Suck me, Nína”. It told the story of a few hippies in mediately aroused my attention. I later called up otherwise spent on your Saturday night beers. the year 1973, but we were, on the contrary, punk- Arnaldur Indriðason, and after I had explained the Of course, there's the added implication that ers in the year 1983, so we basically made a movie idea to him he grew fond of it as well. Subsequently all this wasted food came in some form of plastic, of what was in our opinion the tackiest thing imag- we sat down to write a story. The story was always glass, or paper packaging that most likely didn't get inable. We managed to produce this film with great a subject to change but the journey between Reyk- recycled, and only exacerbates the problem. This is a aggressiveness and the result was surprisingly suc- javík and Rotterdam was always its milestone. The violation that renders the environmental movement cessful. Soon after this adventure I decided to at- time it took to write was exhaustive but I don’t re- in Iceland a shade no richer than "diet green." tain some education in the field. So you could say gret a minute of it. It’s always easy to write about And, how did the food buying culture of mod- that me becoming a director was an aftermath of the first two thirds of a screenplay but when you ern day Iceland come so far from its roots of maximiz- “Suck me, Nína” have to finalise it, things tend to get complicated. ing the utility of food? It's fun for tourists and natives Did you move home as soon as you finished All in all, with intermissions, it took about five years alike to delve into the wonders of slatur and revel your studies in England? to write, which clearly gave us the time to make it in the adventuresome eating of ram testicles and Yeah, I came home and made my final assignment, proper. We considered many times over the pro- sheep's head, but the obvious must be pointed out: a movie called “SSL 25” which deals with a pri- cess that the screenplay was decent enough to start this is a tradition founded upon the very principal of vately operated task force. Subsequently, I started shooting it, but we could never make peace with preventing food waste. Should we not re-embrace making music videos for several artists, such as it being simply decent, we wanted it to be perfect. some of these rituals simply for their practical value? the Sugarcubes, Bubbi etc. but alongside with that To make that happen we had a lot of people read Come now, everyone! Follow up that juicy lamb steak work I was preparing a movie that had been for it and comment on it and we also created a spe- tonight with the sheep's eyes and you not only have some time on my mind: “Sódóma Reykjavík”. I was cial workshop down at the Icelandic Film Centre, “I think the worst mistake of a a soothing palate cleanser, you've prevented a bit extremely eager to start working on it, and the pre- whose sole purpose was to make the script better. I of waste and stretched your kronur that little bit fur- paring process was so successful that I could begin think the worst mistake of a filmmaker is to believe filmmaker is to believe his job is ther. shooting in relatively short time. his job is to make movies, but not to tell stories. to make movies, but not to tell Okay, preaching over and scathing New York What made you so passionate about Sódóma And if you want to tell a story you have to make it attitude put away, I promise. I guess the only thing Reykjavík? credible. Nowadays people don’t give themselves stories.”, “I try hard to avoid see- I can do is to put my own words into practice and In my opinion all the movies that were made here enough time, and just go out and shoot some half ing my old works, it’s intoler- try to see the silver lining here. Maybe this economic at the time were rather dull and I didn’t see any finished pieces, and as soon as they begin shoot- crisis, the ever-escalating price of food, and my per- need for such a vast selection of boring flicks, so ing they realise that they’re in over their heads but able.” sonal effort to prevent food waste can finally help me an amusing film was really called for at the time. there’s nothing they can do at that point. fit into those skinny jeans everyone seems to be so It was gratifying to go through all the professional Have you ever made that mistake? fond of. production process that surrounded the shooting Actually, I always feel I’m making that mistake. Ad Grapevine 245x195 (EE) 20/09/07 17:44 Page 1

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ARTIClE INTERvIEW BY DeSIRee AnDRewS — pHoTo BY gAS

Blades of Glory Despite its lack of “ice,” Ice- land is fast becoming an inter- national hockey powerhouse BoMBiNG ThE CiTY BY JAMeS cRugnALe Director Jon Reiss talks graffiti

Disney movie buffs will cheekily remember that Iceland played the villainous top-ranked team in the Junior Goodwill Games against Emilio Estevez’s The graffiti film Bomb It! pre- think there’s a reason for this? I think so. Very few cities wouldn’t even have a Mighty Ducks. Their slick-moussed coach, Wolf miered in Iceland at the Reykjavik [It’s] probably what we showed. I mean you can [Government official] come out and talk to anyone. “The Dentist” Stansson, and his burly, mini-dynamo find pretty much all forms of graffiti in all cities. Most cities are just against graffiti and “fuck you Icelander youth hockey team were so convincingly film festival. Los Angeles director But, we looked for differences and we tried to find guys.” So, the fact that there was someone there good that many audiences may have been fooled Jon Reiss attended the first screen- what was special to that city. To just find Wild Style trying to do something was a good first step. To be into thinking that hockey is second nature to the ing and took part in a Q&A after- over and over again, it’s kind of boring. To be per- honest the issue with Reykjavik is it’s such a small youth of the nation. wards. He also sat on a panel with fectly honest, I’m a little bored with Wild Style and I town that if you keep the centre clean you’re basi- However, despite the portrayal of Iceland as a few of Reykjavik’s artists, activ- appreciate people who are pushing the boundaries cally keeping everything clean. In large cities you Vikings on Ice, the country’s soggy, windy weather of form and taking it to a different level; they see have areas that are artisan places where if you have conditions over the decades have made for a poor ists and the Central City Director, what’s been done before and go “wow how am I go- places covered in graffiti it’s more tolerated. Here, environment to maintain outdoor ice rinks. The Jakob Frímann Magnússon, to ing to do something different?” If anything, some- it’s doesn’t seem like that exist—that I’ve seen. first successful Icelandic hockey team had to exist discuss the issue of graffiti in the times I think graffiti writers are a little lazy. I know you’ve only been here for three days on another continent during the 1920s: the mostly- city. After the panel, Grapevine Can you define Wild Style? but can you give your impressions of Reykja- Icelandic comprised Winnipeg Falcons, which rep- sat down with Jon to learn a little Wild style is actually a crew that Tracy168 ran in the vik as far as the graffiti scene goes and what resented Canada in its first Olympic hockey games. 70s, and it was for him, how he lived, as he says in you think the future might hold? Since then, climate and lack of proper facilities have more about his film and the graf- [our] film. And, that name got applied to the New I have no idea. It seems pretty varied. I always like made it difficult for Iceland to maintain a strong fiti scene in general. York style of graffiti because of the film called Wild it when people push the boundaries and explore hockey tradition. Fortunately, for Icelandic hockey Style, and because of that, everything in the New different mediums. There is a recent issue of Over- fans, all of that could be changing quickly. Your film focuses on both graffiti tags—the York style became Wild Style—basically big letters spray, an international graffiti magazine, and they Starting their national competitive league in basic writing of an artist’s name—and full on with arrows intertwined where you couldn’t really have so many different kinds of graffiti that you can 1991, Iceland has crosschecked their way to a formi- graffiti art including wall murals and stencils. read it very well. do like there’s knitting graffiti, people who knit on dable position in the global standings. The Interna- During the q&A at the screening of your film You have said that a lot of graffiti writers were street posts, there’s people who do metal sculptures tional Ice Hockey Federation promoted the team up you said that before you started filming you, apprehensive to be in your film because there and illegally place them. There’s so many different to Division II after a solid performance in the 2007 like most people, didn’t like tags and that your are so many “bad graffiti films” and they forms of graffiti besides ink and spray paint espe- Men's World Ice Hockey Championships. The IIHF were more drawn to graffiti art. has that opin- didn’t want to be involved in that. What makes cially when there’s a crackdown. Be creative, do now (as of 2008) ranks Iceland 38th in the world, a ion changed? a graffiti film bad and why do you think there something else—find a way to do work. And, the power play goal of an accomplishment. Now I actually prefer a really good tag to a, quote- are so many of them? other thing that’s interesting is that there’s very little Viðar Garðarsson, president of Ice Hockey Ice- unquote, beautiful piece that people have spent I wouldn’t say they are bad; they just serve a spe- stickering here. I mean maybe those are expensive land, attests to the rise of the sport with the growing days on. It depends, because I think that a tag, cific purpose. People can watch endless amounts to make but I didn’t see any stickers here and they availability of indoor ice venues and noted that sev- when it’s done really well, has immediacy and of graffiti just like pornography; you can watch end- are easy to put up and hard to get off. eral hockey games were televised on Icelandic tele- energy, and also artistry to it. And, it’s not saying less amounts of sex with bad production value but vision last year. “It’s been only a little over 10 years that the wall murals don’t have artistry as well, but there’s no context to the films. And I think people since getting the first indoor rink,” Garðarsson says. I think that sometimes on the legal walls it’s almost are reticent to be in movies because they’re not “Iceland now has three indoor ice rinks.” like they spend too much time and the energy is sure what you are going to do with what they say. Despite this initial success, Garðarsson feels taken away from it. It’s almost too much like mural They are trusting you with their work and what is that hockey can continue to grow in the nation, with art and it isn’t really street art anymore, even though about. A lot of time that has been betrayed by peo- the evidence of enthusiastic youth becoming dedi- it’s on the street. There is a certain energy that is ple. People have taken things out of context. cated rink rats, and is calling for further construction caused by the immediacy of doing something in What is the mission of your movie? of new indoor rinks. “We still need more facilities. At the moment. In any art form, as you delve into it, I think the mission of our movie is several fold, the present time, at many rinks, there’s a lot of compe- you develop a certain taste and the ability to see one to show the richness of the movement—that tition for ice time between open skate (times where things that maybe people who aren’t familiar with it’s not any one thing, that it’s actually a multitude rinks are open to the public) and figure skating.” the art form can’t see. And that’s why I think there’s of things. And, if there is any one point, it’s to get Garðarsson notes that success always starts at an appreciation, and sure there are ugly tags, but to people to look at public space differently than how a junior level and bringing hockey to the youth of Ice- appreciate a really nice tag, you have to have a little they have thought of it. That, to me, is most success- land has helped the growth of the sport. “It’s amaz- bit of experience with that before you can see it. ful when, after seeing the movie, people come up ing to see a player who started practicing young and And you came to that conclusion while mak- to me and say “wow I look at the landscape of the THeRe’S So MAnY DIffeRenT foRMS now are talented when they’re 18, 19 or 20. It seems ing the film? city totally differently after seeing your movie” – that hockey is very suitable for Icelanders,” Garðars- In the beginning of the film we weren’t even going that is the greatest compliment. of gRAffITI BeSIDeS InK AnD SpRAY son says. “You need to be quick and strong, perfect to deal with tags. But, we realised that that was our There is a so-called “war on graffiti” here in pAInT eSpecIALLY wHen THeRe’S sport for Icelandic boys and girls.” ignorance or naivety and that they really can’t be Reykjavik. There is strict enforcement against A cRAcKDown. Be cReATIve, Do separated. tagging and mural writing alike. After at- You film covers several cities around the tending the panel with the Central City Di- SoMeTHIng eLSe—fInD A wAY To world starting in New York. There seemed to rector who came out against graffiti, do you Do woRK. be a lot more tags in New York and lA as op- think Reykjavik can strike a balance between posed to the more vibrant artistic pieces in the people who want it and the people who other cities like Amsterdam and Paris. Do you don’t? ;^gZ^hcZZYZYWni]ZcZlXdbZg L]dhZ`cZZhVgZ[gdoZccjbW0 BZViVcYXaZVca^cZcVbVccZZYh L]d]Vh[VgZYVXgdhhi]Z[Zaah#

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Cappuccino + bagel + joghurt = Kr. 740 Rauðarárstígur 8 10 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 essay By valur gunnarsson ARTICLE By HAUKUR S: MAGNÚSSON — ILLUSTRATION BY HUGLEIKUR DAGSSON The Angry Young Men More Monsters and Mythical Beings of the 2010’s Miklabæjar-Sólveig: Unrequited love breeds unholy hatred

The times ahead will be interesting. Initially, the “We’ve got this database of mon- Soon after being buried outside of the catastrophe will bring out the best in people. We sters and creatures in our past. churchyard Solveig’s ghost started haunting Gís- will all band together as one to pull through. It will lason whenever he was alone, for instance as he be a good time for the arts. Artists will no longer A lot of their stories are fascinat- rode home from performing his services. To en- be vying to get support from a bank. People will ing, it’s a shame that they’re not sure his safety, he received an escort wherever he turn their backs on the froth that has consumed used more in modern culture,” went. the airwaves for so long, and go for a shot of good, remarked comic artist Hugleikur One evening when the minister was expect- strong coffee. Those with something to say will be Dagsson in an interview this sum- ed to return home from his duties, Miklibær’s in- listened to, and those with nothing to say will be- habitants heard a beating on the manor’s doors. come irrelevant. It is perhaps likely that a whole mer. This prompted the Grapevine They felt the knocking had a sinister quality to it, generation of artists will be swept aside, as those to draft Dagsson to illustrate a se- so they didn’t answer. They then heard something who relied on sponsorship from the banks will go ries of articles on these monsters stir by the window, but before they could draw down with them. of yore. For the seventh instalment the curtains the sound of being dragged away The new generation, those who have had came through. in the series, Dagsson chose to their future swept away in front of their eyes Later that night, as the housefolk went out, through no fault of their own, they will be angry. illustrate “Iceland’s most vicious they saw the minister’s horse stood in front of the And it is good for artists to be angry if the situa- ghost”, the über-scary ghost house. This spooked the people, as they realised tion merits it. When we think of the Great Depres- Miklabæjar-Sólveig. that the minister had rode home but was now no- sion, we think of artists such as John Steinbeck where to be found. After undergoing an intensive and Woody Guthrie, or in Iceland Halldór Laxness Along with the previously Dagsson-ified tale of search, they decided that Solveig had finally had and Þórbergur Þórðarson. But the entertainment the Deacon of Dark River (“Djákninn á Myrká” – her revenge. The minister was never seen again, that people actually sought at the time was of a issue 10), the story of Miklabæjar-Solveig is prob- but his escort that fateful night reported that he different ilk, screwball comedies about nothing, ably as close to “Gothic romance” as Icelandic had sent them off when his manor was in clear anything to forget. As the general public will start folklore, with all its farmers and fishermen, gets. sight, believing himself to be in the clear. to tire of hearing of the Depression that permeates It has been re-told countless times over the past After the search had been called off, a work- their lives on a daily basis, they will again look for centuries, and has been used as the base for all er of the minister’s named Þorsteinn declared that lighter materials to distract themselves. sorts of artistic and cultural output. he would not rest until he learned his employer’s The brain drain will be immense. Already, ev- A young woman by the name of Solveig was fate. One night, Þorsteinn gathered a mass of the eryone with skills that can be utilised elsewhere is a resident of minister Oddur Gíslason’s manor minister’s belongings and placed them under his leaving the country, along with many immigrants. Miklibær in Blönduhlíð, Skagafjörður in 1778. pillow, asking a clairvoyant woman he shared a Those who remain will be those who have no- Solveig fell madly in love with the minister and woman with to keep watch as he slept. As soon as where else to go. The population of Iceland will went insane when he spurned her advances. Af- he fell asleep, the woman saw the ghost of Solveig no doubt drop below the 300.000 figure yet again. ter repeated attempts at her own life, Solveig was approach his bed and loom over his sleeping On the other hand, there will, finally, be plenty of promptly placed under suicide watch. One day body, fiddling with his neck. Þorsteinn started cheap housing in Reykjavik. For those who can af- at dusk she managed to slip her captors grip and thrashing in his bed, so the woman jumped and ford it. ran to a bunch of jagged rocks, where she com- woke him, driving the Solveig away in the pro- The gyms will be empty and the bars will menced to slit her throat. As a worker ran to stop cess. Þorsteinn woke up in a sweat, red marks be full. On the upside, people will probably start her, he saw her bleed to death and commented: on his neck, and said that Solveig had screamed to have more sex. No more wining and dining, “Now she’s with the devil.” Solveig didn’t answer, at him that he would never learn the minister’s people will move right on to the only entertain- but begged him to tell the minister to bury her in fate before proceeding to slash his throat with a ment that they can have for free. A lot of people holy ground. mighty machete. will form relationships, something to cling onto The minister sought permission from his su- Solveig was not seen around after that, al- in the dark times ahead. At the same time, a lot periors to bury Solveig in the churchyard. They though the minister’s son, Rev. Gísli Oddsson, of older relationships will disintegrate due to the declined as Solveig had committed the deadly reported that she had ambushed him at his wed- stress caused by financial worries. sin of suicide. After receiving the answer, Gísla- ding night. Thus ends the sad tale of Miklabæjar- Hopefully, the next generation will learn from son dreamt Solveig came up to him with an angry Solveig and her doomed love. Many believe it to the mistakes that have now been committed. grin, saying that since he had declined her last be true; in fact the remains of Solveig were dug up wish, he himself would never rest in hallowed in 1937 and placed in a proper cemetery. ground. article by james crugnale — Photo by GAS

getting many invites, the idea for a website was Couchsurfing born. Couchsurfer Hanna Larsdóttir takes great pride in guiding travellers around her country and meeting people with diverse international back- Culture grounds. “I open my door to almost anyone,” says Larsdottir. “I always try to introduce my guests to Icelandic culture. You need to be an open-minded person and I think that’s the perfect recipe for be- If not for Iceland, the largest online “hospitality ing a couchsurfer.” service” in the world would not be around today. Þórgnýr Thoroddsen has hosted over 50 Couchsurfing.com operates as an international travellers since he began hosting couchsurfers network where people open their doors and trans- with his wife Vala, last July. “We put a lot of ef- form their sofas into replacement hostel beds for fort into our profile,” says Thoroddsen. “We took random world travellers. The site operates in over in some surfers and the experience was amazing. 230 countries with approximately 700,000 mem- We’ve hosted couples from the States, people from bers, providing users with their own customiz- the Nordic countries… Quebecois seem to come able profiles. Today, many backpackers take it in the hundreds, we’ve hosted about 20 of them. for granted, using it as a tool for meeting locals in Also, people from France, Austria, Mexico, Italy, far-off places. and the Philippines. I’ve had grown up filmmak- Couchsurfing.com founder Casey Fenton, ers, 18 year old kids, a professor in ancient Nordic; chronicles how Iceland sparked the inspiration it’s a cool opportunity to mix and get to meet new for the social network: “I'd gotten a cheap web- people and share culture.” special from Boston to Iceland on a Monday and Larsdóttir feels the website offers her other would fly that Friday. I only had one problem opportunities. "I’m saving the world, one person though. What would I do when I got there? Stick at a time,” she says. “At the same time, I’m getting it out in a hotel? A hostel? I thought about the idea to know the world. But I can tell you this, Your par- of contacting someone on the Internet and seeing ents won’t be thrilled if you say, ‘Hey Mom, I met if I could hang out with them and maybe sleep at this guy, he’s staying at my house…but he’s got a their house.” The legend goes that Fenton con- couchsurfing profile!’ tacted hundreds of students at the University of Iceland to ask them for a place to crash and after REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 | 11

A SPEECh BY THe pReSIDenT of IceLAnD ÓLAfuR RAgnAR gRÍMSSon AT THe wALBRooK cLuB, LonDon 3RD MAY 2005 HOW TO SUCCEED IN MODERN BUSINESS: Lessons From the Icelandic Voyage

Distinguished business leaders facilities in Bulgaria, Malta, Serbia, India and else- sponsibility, leading the team, giving the company Representatives of the media where. a visible, personal face. This style of entrepreneur- Ladies and Gentlemen Össur, the largest prosthetics company in the ship breeds leaders who know they are responsi- world, was created by an unknown Icelander who ble, aware that their initiative will make or break Recently, I have often found myself cornered at worked on his innovations in small rooms in the the deal. As an Asian business executive once told various functions, especially here in London, and oldest part of Reykjavik. me: "The reason why I like to do business with Ice- pressured to explain how and why daring Icelan- Kaupthing Bank, which only six years ago landers is that the bosses themselves come to the dic entrepreneurs are succeeding where others opened the first branch of an Icelandic bank table; they don’t hide behind an army of lawyers hesitate or fail, to reveal the secret behind the suc- abroad, is now among the largest financial institu- and accountants like they do in the big European cess they have achieved. tions in the Nordic countries, with operations in and American companies". It is of course tempting to let it remain a Europe and America. Eighth on my list is the heritage of discovery mystery, to allow the British business world to be Bakkavör, which a decade ago started in a and exploration, fostered by the medieval Viking perplexed. This mystery would give my Icelandic garage in my home municipality, is now the largest sagas that have been told and retold to every Ice- friends a clear advantage, a fascinating competitive producer of fast food in Britain. It recently acquired landic child. This is a tradition that gives honour to edge – but when my friend Lord Polumbo asked Geest, so expanding the scope of its operations. those who venture into unknown lands, who dare me to speak on this subject at the distinguished I could go on to mention many other exam- to journey to foreign fields, interpreting modern Walbrook Club, I could not decline the challenge. ples: companies in transport and food processing, business ventures as an extension of the Viking It is indeed an interesting question how our machinery and software production, telecommu- spirit, applauding the successful entrepreneurs as small nation has in recent years been able to win nications and other fields. heirs of this proud tradition. so many victories on the competitive British, Eu- How has it been possible to achieve such Ninth is the importance of personal reputa- ropean and global markets, especially because success in so many different fields and in such a tion. This is partly rooted in the medieval Edda po- for centuries we were literally the poorest nation short time, in areas where we definitely had no ems which emphasise that our wealth might wither in Europe, a community of farmers and fishermen prior competitive advantage, areas such as phar- away but our reputation will stay with us forever. who saw Hull and Grimsby as the main focus of maceuticals and prosthetics, banking and finance, Every Icelandic entrepreneur knows that success their attention, a nation that only a few decades retail and fashion – to name only a few. or failure will reflect not only on his or her own ago desperately needed to extend its fishing limit Of course, many factors have contributed reputation but also on the reputation of the nation. in order to survive, first to 12 miles, then to 50 and to the success of this voyage, but I am convinced They therefore see themselves as representatives of finally to 200 miles. Each time Britain sent the Navy that our business culture, our approach, our way of a proud people and know that their performance to stop us but each time we won - the only nation thinking and our behaviour patterns, rooted in our will determine their reputation for decades or cen- on earth to defeat the British Navy, not once but traditions and national identity, have played a cru- turies to come. three times. With this unique track record, it is no cial role. All of these are elements that challenge Tenth, there is the fact that the Icelandic mar- wonder that young entrepreneurial Vikings have the prevailing theories taught in respected busi- ket, although small, has turned out to be an effec- arrived in London full of confidence and ready to ness schools and observed in practice by many of tive training ground because it is so competitive, take on the world! the big American and British corporations. perhaps more so than many other European mar- Yes, it is indeed a fascinating question, not We are succeeding because we are different, kets; therefore what succeeds in Iceland is likely to just with respect to Iceland, but also because it and our track record should inspire the business succeed everywhere else. throws light on some fundamental trends in mod- establishment in other countries to re-examine Eleventh, because of how small the Icelandic ern business. It touches on the new nature of suc- their previous beliefs and the norms that they think nation is, we do not travel the world with an extra cess, and why some fail where others triumph. will guarantee results. The range of Icelandic suc- baggage of ulterior motives or big power interests Globalisation and information technology have cess cases provides a fertile ground for a produc- rooted in military, financial or political strength. given small states opportunities on a scale never tive dialogue on how the modern business world is No one is afraid to work with us; people even see us witnessed before. Obstacles to their growth have indeed changing. as fascinating eccentrics who can do no harm and largely been abolished and replaced by an open Let me offer you a list of a dozen or so ele- therefore all doors are thrown wide open when we and wide field where talent, imagination and cre- ments that I believe have been crucial to Iceland’s arrive. ativity determine success story. I am not listing them in any particular Twelfth, the strong interaction which charac- what is harvested. order, but taken together, I am convinced that they terizes the Icelanders offers opportunities for peo- Innovations can now emerge from any direc- amount to a significiant framework of business ple from different sectors to launch cooperative tion; individual initiative can lay the foundation for success – a guide to the ground in which achieve- ventures without difficulties or major bureaucratic companies which establish a global presence in a ments are rooted. hindrances. The extensive knowledge that our short time. First comes a strong work ethic. This is a heri- business leaders have of the capabilities of others In recent years Iceland has shown how a tage from the old society of farmers and fishermen, in different fields has made it easy for them to draw small state can make an organised and successful where necessity dictated that the fish catch had people into promising projects. response to globalisation and thus boost its own to be brought ashore and processed immediately And finally, there is creativity, rooted in the business success. Every company in our country when the boats came in to harbour and that hey old Icelandic culture which respected the talents of now has a unique opportunity to profile itself. In- had to be turned and collected when the weather individuals who could compose poetry or tell sto- deed, new companies can now emerge into the was favourable. When Kaupthing Bank beat the ries, who were creative participants in companion- global market regardless of where their home base other bidders for the Danish FIH Erhvervs Bank, ship with others. These attitudes have been passed is and soon have the whole world as their market the disappointed English representative returned onto the business community, as is demonstrated region. to London and informed his boss that the Iceland- by the Icelandic term used to describe a pioneer There is much to suggest that in the new ers had won because, as he put it: “When we go or an entrepreneur, – "athafnaskáld", which means economy, a small state can be a very profitable home these guys are still working.” literally “a poet of enterprise”. Admiration for cre- basis for business innovations because in a small Second, we tend to focus on the results rath- ative people has been transplanted from ancient state it is easy to see how different elements link er than the process: to go straight to the task and do times into the new global age, and originality has up, how to establish cooperation between differ- the job in the shortest time possible; to ask when it turned out to be a decisive resource in the global ent fields, how to gain access to information and can be done rather than how. market. experience and grasp solutions to difficult tasks. Third, Icelanders are risk takers. They are Taken together, these thirteen elements have A small state can serve as a kind of laboratory or daring and aggressive. Perhaps this is because given the Icelandic business community a compet- research station in precisely those sectors that are they know that if they fail, they can always go back itive edge, enabling us to win where others either increasingly coming to dominate the economy of to Iceland where everyone can enjoy a good life failed or did not dare to enter. Our entrepreneurs our times. in an open and secure society; the national fabric have thus been able to move faster and more effec- Many examples can be cited to illustrate how of our country provides a safety-net which enables tively, to be more original and more flexible, more our business leaders have managed to establish our business leaders to take more risks than others reliable but also more daring than many others. themselves on foreign markets. In previous decades tend to do. The track record that Icelandic business we saw the success of our seafood marketing com- Fourth, there is absence of bureaucracy in leaders have established is also an interesting panies through their sales networks in Europe, the Iceland and a lack of tolerance for bureaucratic standpoint from which to examine the validity of U.S.A. and Asia, and the remarkable achievements methods. Perhaps it is because there are so few of traditional business teaching, of the theories and of our airline companies from the 1960s onwards us that we have never really been able to afford ex- practice fostered and followed by big corporations when Loftleiðir – now Icelandair – became the first tensive bureaucratic structures; when we encoun- and business schools on both sides of the Atlantic. low fare airline in the world, enabling the hippy ter them, we prefer other means. It enables us to discuss the emphasis on entrepre- generation to cross the Atlantic cheaply. These ex- Fifth, there is a strong element of personal neurial versus structural training, on process ver- periences provided an important training ground, trust, almost in the classical sense of “my word is sus results, on trust versus career competition, on but no one could have predicted the extraordinary my bond.” This enables people to work together in creativity versus financial strength. success in recent years, a success which does in- an extraordinarily effective way because they are I have mentioned this morning only some of deed raise challenging questions about prevailing fostered in communities where everyone knows the lessons which the Icelandic voyage offers, but business strategies, theories and training in mod- everyone else. This trust also contributes towards: I hope that my analysis has helped to clarify what ern times. Let me mention a few success cases. The sixth element. This is the formation of has been a big mystery to many. Let me leave you Baugur is indeed well known here in Britain, small groups of operators who work closely and with a promise that I gave at the recent opening of playing a major part in the retail sector, not only in strategically together, creating a fast-moving net- the Avion Group headquarters in Crawley. I formu- London but also in Denmark and Sweden. work of key decision makers who can close a deal lated it with a little help from Hollywood movies: Avion Group, the specialised airline, is now the quicker than those who are used to working within largest of its kind in the world. It recently opened larger and more bureaucratic corporate struc- "You ain't seen nothing yet". its European headquarters in Crawley, close to tures. London. Seventh, we have entrepreneurship – old- Actavis has become the fastest growing phar- fashioned entrepreneurship where the boss him- maceutical company in the world, with production self or herself stands in the front line, taking re- 12 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 article INTERVIEW BY Bergur ebbi benediktsson — PHOTO BY GAS Can We Love the US Again?

By Valur gunnarsson

We all secretly love the United States. List your top ten heroes, writers, musicians, actors, anything; chances are most of them will be citizens of the United States. As much as we may dislike its gov- ernment, it’s easier said than done to turn our backs on American Culture. And on what is still sometimes referred to as the American Dream. To their great credit, some of the most vocal op- ponents of President George W. Bush have been American citizens. So what will change if Barack Obama be- comes president? In a word, everything. Secretly or openly, we all want a US president we can re- ally like. Al Gore would have done nicely. Clinton seemed alright, but there was just something fun- damentally sleazy about him. And as for the others, well, the less said the better. So give us our Obama fix, and we’ll probably forget the Iraq War as quick- ly as we forgot Vietnam. Given, of course, that the war can be brought to an end. Then in about ten year’s time, we can expect a slew of great movies about how much of a mess the Iraq War really was, directed by future Oliver Stones and Stanley Ku- bricks. Then again, if we forget too easily, we might wind up with another Rambo. So, will everything be back to normal then? Not quite. Even if we manage to forgive and forget, that doesn’t mean that the colossus will be back on Professor emeritus sigurður líndal - almost as old as snorri sturluson its feet. US dominance is being challenged by other powers. It has lost the firm hold it recently had on many parts of the world. If Obama does win, he will undoubtedly be popular in Europe, and rightly so. But he will also be the first president with a non- A 13th Century Rebel European sounding name. Irrespective of this, in the long run, the US is likely to spend most of its Examining the politics of Snorri Sturluson attention on the Asia Pacific Region and the Middle East. We may be willing to love the US again, but it might no longer be as eager to love us back. The United States was at the peak of its pow- Snorri Sturluson was an Icelandic the contract, he was detached from the law. There- Haakon by leaving,” says Sigurður and adds that ers in 1945. When Europe and Asia lay in ruins, chieftain, historian and poet who fore it was important that everybody could agree to Heimskringla holds many examples of this right. It the US alone accounted for more than 50% of the the law and compromise was an essential theme in was Haakon who gave orders for Snorri’s assassina- died in Reykholt in Borgarfjörður world’s industrial production. The European na- the old Germanic legal system,” says Sigurður and tion at his home in Reykholt in 1241. tions would not rise again as global superpowers, in 1241. For some reason people names the adoption of Christianity in Iceland as but the US predominance was challenged militar- talk about Snorri like he just an example of how a compromise was necessary Harald was Haakon ily by the Soviet Union and financially by Japan. recently passed away. His politics, in order to hold the country under uniformed law. “Snorri was not against kings. He just favoured the However, after the collapse of the Soviet Union and wisdom and poetry stand close Sigurður also notes that the concept of taxation did kings of the past who did not rise above the law Japan‘s economic problems in the early 90‘s, the not really exist in the old Germanic concept of law. but were equal to the chieftains. He was obviously United States enjoyed an Indian Summer as world to the people of Iceland who talk “It was a community of free men and they were not not in favour of taxation but he did not see any- hegemon. Campaigns in the Balkans and in the about his assassination like a hor- bound to give away their earnings as tax but they thing wrong in paying the king respect in the form Middle East seemed to herald a New World Order, rible contemporary event. would often give away money and goods as pres- of a present. King Haakon made Norway a strong where the US could win any war without having to ents,” says Sigurður. kingdom where the king had the power to set law. face casualties on its end. Snorri considered that to be tyranny and it shines But on September 11th 2001,changed that Recently, professor emeritus Sigurður Líndal gave Peace Was Important through Heimskringla,” says Sigurður who also perception. Seven years later, the War on Terror has an interesting lecture on the political views of Snor- “This started to change in the 12th and 13th century has a clever theory. In Heimskringla, Snorri writes managed to do what neither World War II nor the ri Sturluson. People flocked to see what the profes- and the provoker was the Catholic Church with its about Harald the Fairhaired who was a 9th century Cold War could, to make the US seem weak both sor had to say. It is admirable that people have the canon law. Additional factors were that trade in- mythical king of Norway who is said to have united militarily and economically. None of the nations same enthusiasm for politics of the 13th century as creased, the bourgeois class was formed and cities the nation. He is an important figure in Icelandic that are now rising, China, Russia or India, seem for what is going on at the Alþingi (Parliament) right were built and all this was done in cooperation with history because he is said to be one of the reasons likely to supersede it in the near future, but no lon- now. It is easy to understand what draws people to the Church. A good example of the good union be- for the settlement of Iceland. Chieftains and farm- ger can the US lay claim to being the world‘s lone see such a lecture. They are in fact meeting two tween trade and the Church are the rules set about ers supposedly fled Norway because of his tyranny. Superpower. interesting people: the academic Snorri Sturluson certain periods, usually weekends, being times of “I think when Snorri writes about Harald, who is a For many, particularly those in South Ameri- and the academic Sigurður Líndal. Although they peace and certain places, usually the town square border-line mythical character, he is actually writ- ca who have had to bear the brunt of US domina- are about 750 years apart in time they would prob- beside the church, being places of peace. Peace ing about King Haakon,” says Sigurður. tion, this is a time to rejoice. Leftist governments ably understand each other easily if they were to was important and kings were no longer knights It is obvious that Sigurður is charmed by have come to power in Venezuela, Uruguay, Brazil, meet. Sigurður agreed to explain the political ideas of war but those who could secure the peace. The Snorri’s wisdom. He still points out to me that his Paraguay and Chile without bringing US interven- of Snorri Sturluson and why he is interested in the Church became a worldly force with the clergy and ideas did not prevail. In the end of the 13th century tion on themselves. This would have been incon- subject. was active in law-making. The Church could still Icelanders were given a lawbook, Jónsbók, by the ceivable in the 20th Century. And it is no wonder claim that their law stemmed from God. The kings king of Norway. They agreed to follow the book but that many people are tired of a Superpower that as A Community of Free Men responded by building up their own bureaucracy maybe they did not have a choice. Traces of the old often abused its position by supporting numerous Sigurður is a 77-year old professor emeritus of law and found ways to justify setting laws on a worldly Germanic concept of law were still found in discus- dictatorships around the world, as well as with its from the University of Iceland but also holds a de- basis. They dug up old writings like the Roman law sions in the Alþingi during the following centuries wars in South East Asia and the Middle East. gree in history. He knows from years of experience book Corpus Juris Civilis and by these means the but it had mostly vanished by the end of the Middle But the Decline of the United States is not as that the best way to present the political ideas of a old Germanic concept of law faded away.” Ages. much cause for celebration as many who have criti- past figure is to start by a thorough introduction of Sigurður then explains how Snorri’s views, cized it would like to think. The rising powers are its times. I sit back and enjoy as Sigurður, a man of as portrayed in Heimskringla, the history of the even less likely to take human rights into consider- spontaneous story-telling and academic accuracy, Norwegian kings, are basically in favour of the old ation than the US was. Russia supports a dictator opens a window into the Middle Ages. concept of law. He resisted the changes and wrote next door in Belorussia while it invades Georgia, “We must understand that the people of about the fairness of past kings. He lived in the and the Chinese occupy Tibet while they do busi- Iceland lived by the old Germanic concept of law, middle of the changes and obviously contradicted ness with genocidal regimes such as Sudan. The where laws were considered old and fair and there himself to some degree. In 1218 he was invited to American Hydra may be humbled, but other beasts was no bureaucracy or central power to set new Norway by King Haakon IV. He persuaded Haakon King Haakon made Norway a will take its place. And they will be far less tolerant law. If the law did not comply with reality, it was to become king of Iceland, and he became Haa- of criticism, from its own people as well as from considered necessary to direct the law in to its right kon’s vassal. Snorri returned to Iceland in 1220, strong kingdom where the king abroad. course. The thought was that it was no need to set but in the ensuing years his relation with Haakon had the power to set law. Snorri The tragedy of the American Century is not that so new law but rather to seek for the originality of the deteriorated. “In 1240 Snorri was in Norway and much power was concentrated in the US, but how old law and apply it to the case,” says Sigurður and became friends with the earl Skúli Bárðarson who considered that to be tyranny badly that power was abused. It may not yet be explains that this was the way things were in Ice- was Haakon’s competitor. Haakon suspected that and it shines through Heim- time to forgive the United States. But perhaps we land up until the 13th century. “Another important Snorri was planning a rebellion against him and or- will soon start to miss them. thing is that nobody was bound by the law unless dered Snorri to stay in Norway. Snorri left the coun- skringla he agreed to it. The law was more like a contract try anyway and travelled home to Iceland. Snorri between chieftains. 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ARTICLE By Bergur Ebbi Benediktsson and Sveinn Birkir Björnsson

The Icelandic economy has the economic boom of the last few years, this was an crashed. The government has easy cycle to maintain. Encouraged by their rapid growth of the banks, nationalized all three of the major Icelandic investment bankers and companies soon banks in Iceland and most Icelan- started to expand to other countries, acquiring dic financial institutions overseas banks, retail companies, airlines, fashion stores, and are bankrupt. The global credit professional football teams - more or less (mostly more) financed by short-term loans. New acquisition crisis that has left banks in Europe were used as collateral for further loans to bankroll and the US bankrupt has hit Ice- further acquisition. Before the crisis, the Icelandic land like a natural disaster. During banks had accumulated foreign assets worth about a two-week period our economy 10 times the Icelandic gross domestic product (GDP), was wiped out and left in ruins 80% of which was financed by foreign loans. When the credit crunch hit, following the sub-prime mort- gage collapse in the US, and the cash flow to Icelan- Sunday September 21, the CEO of Glitnir Bank, Lárus dic banks dried up, investment companies found it Welding was a guest on the political talk show Silfur increasingly more difficult to re-finance. Due to the Egils, where he was asked to elaborate on the inter- disproportionate size of the banking industry, their national financial crisis that was hitting financial in- collapse would have spelled bankruptcy for the stitutions hard on both sides of the Atlantic, and how whole country as the government was no longer it would affect the Icelandic banking industry, his able to guarantee their operation. Faced with that own bank included. "We can see now that the flex- prospect, Icelandic authorities had little choice but ibility in our structure and the way we have prepared to force the banks into receivership. ourselves has landed us a very secure position," he boasted. Today, it seems obvious that he was lying, or Who’s to Blame? at best being delusional, but at least he looked good The collapse of the Icelandic economy is a highly while doing it. complicated issue that involves many technical eco- A week later, on Monday, September 29, the nomical terms, only a part of which are even intel- Icelandic government announced its decision to ligible to John Q. Public. The collapse will have far- nationalise Glitnir in the face of the bank’s imminent reaching effects for the foreseeable future. Although bankruptcy. Stoðir, the largest shareholder of Glitnir everyone involved, from bankers to government and one of Iceland's biggest investment companies, officials, have tirelessly repeated the mantra that declared insolvency, and the exchange rate of the now is not the time to assign blame, and there will Icelandic Króna continued to plummet. be plenty of time to review the situation and find cul- People were concerned when markets closed prits sometime in the future, someone must be held on Friday October 3. News that trickled out during responsible. the weekend suggested that the crisis was getting Economists in Iceland have gainfully pointed to worse, although Prime Minister, Geir H. Haarde stat- technical errors made by the Icelandic Central Bank ed that he believed there was no cause for further in dealing with inflation and the currency exchange intervention from the Icelandic government at the rate of the Icelandic Króna, which may have encour- time. It was difficult to decipher the situation when aged Icelandic bankers to seek short term loans in markets opened on Monday morning. Despite Prime foreign currency to re-loan in Iceland where the inter- Minister Haarde's optimism, shares of all major Ice- est rates have been much higher than in most of the landic banks were not being traded in the Iceland civilized world, and for failing to maintain the foreign Stock Exchange. currency reserve at a point that would suggest that That afternoon, Prime Minister Geir H. Haarde, the Central Bank could step in to assist the banks in a addressed the nation and cryptically stated that time of need. the Icelandic banks were all on the verge of bank- The government should receive it’s share for ruptcy and emergency legislation would be pushed deregulating the financial sector to the point that they through the parliament, allowing the government to had little or no say in any matters regarding the finan- take full control of their operations. The following cial market, and for failing to keep taps on inflation, days gave us news of a total governmental seizure expansion and maintaining a proper supervision au- of Landsbanki and Glitnir Bank and that Kaupthing thority on the economy. It has also been a political was granted a loan of 500 million Euros to continue decision to stash away old and defunct politicians as its operations, and at the time of print, it looks like it Governors of the Central Bank, a highly suspectible may fall into the hands of the government, too. In a decision, given thte Central Bank's role in Icelandic matter of two weeks, the Icelandic financial system economic policy. went from A-OK to total ruins. The Icelandic people obviously deserve a share of the blame. Their blatant consumerism was What the Hell Happened? fueled by the easy access to cold, hard cash and Only a week passed from the seizure of Glitnir Bank the misconception that the party would last forever. until an emergency legislation was passed in Par- Well, it was fun while it lasted, but now we will need liament, allowing the state to overtake all the. This to clean up and get our house in order. was perhaps the most dramatic week in the history And last, but not least, there are the adventur- of Icelandic economy. But this eventful period had ous investment bankers who were even more delu- a long prologue and it will certainly leave us with a sional than the general public when they joined the bitter aftermath. Although the meltdown was caused party. Greed seems to have been their guiding princi- by a complex interplay of various economic factors, ple and eventually, they bit off more than they could both at home and abroad, the deciding factors can chew. be traced to a relatively simple cause. It may have started with the privatization of the What will Happen Next? state-owned Icelandic banks and the deregulation Despite watching our economy collapse in two of the banking industry that began around 2000 and weeks, the worst may be yet to come. A wave of the simultaneous financial influx from foreign invest- bankruptcies is on the horizon, likely followed by un- ment in the energy and aluminum sectors. Compet- employment, recession and general hardship. ing with the state-run Housing Financing Fund, the It is a damn shame, really. We all thought newly privatized banks offered real estate mortgages we could work in big money-making factories to individuals at lower interest rates and financed and throw stress-balls around and make silly a higher percentage the real estate prices than the jokes about David Duchovny's sex addiction, but Housing Financing Fund offered. This created real now it seems that the Icelandic voyage, as Presi- estate boom, and caused a rapid increase in the dent Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson, called the foreign value of the banks. The 40-year real estate mortgages acquisitions adventure, has stranded. provided by the banks were financed mostly with short-term loans from international banks and finan- cial institutions, leaving the banks dependent on frequent re-financing to keep the ball rolling. During REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 | 15

ARTICLE By VALUR GUNNARSSON — ILLUSTRATION BY KÖDDI HRISTBJÖRNS

The Great Laissez-faire Dream is The Fascist Model? over. To many, it always seemed Nazism never really took root in Iceland during the 30’s. It may simply be because there was no like more of a nightmare. In any significant Jewish community to use as scape- case, we must now wake up and goats. Immigration to Iceland only really started face the facts. It beggars belief in the 90’s. We may well see some political parties how entire nations can blindly be on the far right emerge to take advantage of direc- tionless anger. Hopefully, the anger will be better led towards folly by leaders who directed at those more deserving of it. in retrospect were so obviously In any case, immigrant communities haven’t wrong, and how all those who really set root here, and many people will simply knew better were brushed aside. leave. Still, it is a bad omen that the first weekend And how this can happen again after the collapse saw 13 violent attacks reported to the police in a single night. This may well be a and again, in different forms. record. Thankfully, this will be the last we will hear of The main difference between Fascism now the market as the cure of all ills in our lifetime. and in the 30’s is that at the time, it was a new and Or at least until we start telling our grandchildren unproven idea. We have now seen what it leads to to beware of those who try to convince them that and, hopefully, this will ensure that we don’t have greed is good. Will they listen then? I doubt it. It to go down that road again. Nevertheless, the idea will always be in the interests of the rich to make of a controlled economy allied with nationalist ar- people believe that they should be allowed to do rogance is bound to make some sort of return. In as they want. And those with the money will in the Russia, it already has. end control our minds. Unless something is done to stop them. The Left-Reds My generation will be the one hardest hit by It is not just parties of the far right who will benefit our current predicament. The people in their late at the polls. Parties of the left will tone down their 20’s and 30’s, the ones who have taken out loans feminism and environmentalism and start taking to buy homes at exorbitant prices that are now a greater interest in the economy. The Left-Greens practically worthless. We are the ones who will are the one major party in Iceland that can be never forget, in the same way that everyone who said to be blameless for our current predicament. was around in the 30’s learnt to have a healthy They will now benefit by not being in power, the suspicion of the market. It took 50 years from the same way that Obama benefitted by having had Great Depression until free market policies be- no part in the Iraq War. But if they fail to offer solu- came dominant again. By that time, everyone who tions, those with more radical ideas will become could still remember the hard times was either louder. Instead of the Left-Greens, we may end up dead or had lost influence. The same mistakes with the Far-left-Reds. The era of identity politics were made all over again. is over. We’re back to class struggle now. But history never repeats itself completely. The Return of History In the 30’s, when things seemed to be going well in So much for Libertarian Capitalism. What next? the Soviet Union as seen from the outside, commu- During the 20th Century, two ideologies emerged nism was a better proposition than it is now. And to seriously challenge capitalism. During the yet communists failed to take power in any coun- Great Depression, it seemed one or the other of try during the Great Depression. It will be harder these might win out. It took a World War to defeat to be a communist now, after we know what hap- Nazism. This left communism and capitalism to pened in the Soviet Union. So many people will duke it out for the next half century until there re- want a new ideology for a new Depression. mained, as in Highlander, only one. We who grew up in the 80’s and 90’s were indoctrinated in an The Second Coming? era in which many were talking about the end of But the most vibrant ideology these days goes ideology. It wasn’t the end, but rather that one ide- back a long way. Even during happier times, peo- ology, that of the Free Market, had replaced many. ple were starting to turn to religion when the mar- And even if those who doubted the prevailing ket failed to provide them with purpose. Not only system weren’t thrown into a gulag, they certainly the parties of the left, but also others who have had little stock in the marketplace of ideas. warned against the dangers of excessive greed Here in Iceland, we had the free market poli- will benefit. As people begin to lose their material cies of the conservatives in the daily newspaper wealth, they will turn for comfort to the one party Morgunblaðið competing with the free market that has always been willing to provide it. Now, as policies of the newly rich in daily newspaper Frét- the rich are becoming poor, the first last, there is tablaðið. For a while, libertarian capitalism was much in the Bible that will seem apt. the only game in town. It only took 20 years to History should have taught us that giving po- blow it. History is back with a vengeance. litical power to the clerics has never been a good idea. But history is no guarantee that mistakes will The new Jews not be repeated. If worst comes to worst, religion So, will that mean that other ideologies will make will become the greatest threat to democracy, the a comeback? Probably. Just as we have had to deal Nazism of the 2010’s. with bad ideas from the libertarian spectrum for the past decades, we will now have to listen to bad The Great Depression of the 2070’s ideas of a different kind. People are still reeling None of this is to say that we are witnessing the from the shock of having everything they believed end of capitalism. But we are seeing the end of its in come to an end. But after shock comes anger. most extreme form, laissez-faire. Neither capital- Just as the wealth was unevenly distributed, so ism nor communism functioned very well when will poverty. And when people see that the ones taken to their extremes. The social democracies who deserve it least will be the hardest hit, anger of the Nordic countries became the richest coun- will start to simmer. tries in the world, as well as those that took the During the Great Depression, a scapegoat best care of its citizens. Sadly, Iceland decided had to be found and, as so often before, people to go in a different direction. It must now pay the started blaming the Jews. This time around, they price. In any case, this will probably be last de- might turn on the immigrants. Even with full em- pression caused by Wall Street. The Great Depres- ployment, there is always some resentment to- sion of the 2070’s will start in Shanghai. wards those of different backgrounds. As mass un- Winter has come. We won’t see spring again for a employment spreads, the locals will be vying for long time. the cleaning and service jobs that they wouldn’t touch with a stick during better days. Anyone seen as an outsider is bound to suffer most during hard times, and the same will no doubt be true now. 16 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008

CD REVIEWS CONCERT REVIEW By Florian zühlke— PHOTO BY GAS

THE VERDICT The lights are broken on the 80's disco ball

listen www.myspace.com/ motionboys

Motion Boys Hang On reviewed by MARCUS WALSH

It's very scary when a contemporary band sound like seasoned pro- fessionals from another decade, like when Scissor Sisters wail home about the dear 1980's. It's even more terrifying when a new band are a carbon copy of a carbon copy and the Motion Boys sound a lot like the Scissor Sisters. Of course there are a lot of other acts you can throw into the cauldron like Elton John or Wham and mix it together in one big sickly, cheesy poison. The trouble is you want to slurp up a bit more because you know it's bad for you and it becomes addic- tive. Even if 'Hold Me Closer To Your Heart' and 'Five To Love' have a couple of girly squeals that make you want to stand in front of the mirror singing into a pink glittery hairbrush, it would be much better to do this to Prince who knew the true essence of the 1980's a lot bet- ter than these boys do.

THE VERDICT Very good indie record with a few flaws THIS GUY GREW UP AMONG RATTLE SNAKES IN THE DESERT. TO HIM THE WORD OASIS ACTUALLY HAS A POSITIVE MEANING. listen www.myspace.com/ mammut Desertification Way up North

MammÚt As an avid Kyuss fan, I went to Cafe Amsterdam place was vibrating during their set; I don’t know if Karkari with mixed expectations this evening. On the it was their guitar and bass sound that caused the WHO one hand, I was looking forward to see a parti- window next to me crack, but surely, it could have! Esja cular member of the group playing live; but then As a bow to Brant Bjork, they played Kyuss's “100 Brain Police reviewed by Florian Zühlke again, disappointment is never far away when you Degrees” as the penultimate song, which brought Brant Bjork and the Bros enter a show with such high hopes. Fortunately, the euphoria in the audience to its zenith. With “Karkari,” this young quintet from Reykjavík basically follows everything went fine. Brant Bjork and the Bros. did a rollicking WHERE the same direction they started on their self-titled debut two years Let’s start from at beginning: the opener of good job headlining, as their dusty 70s rock was Amsterdam ago. Their fundamentals – guitar-based indie-rock – have stayed the the night was Krummi (Mínus) and Daníel's (Gus- a gnarly hybrid between hypnotic stoner tunes same but the body of their work seems to be less experimental. It is Gus) new band, Esja. Their bluesy Western sound and harder Jimi Hendrix-style riffs which led one WHEN catchy melodies (like right at the beginning in the refrain of the open- fit very well into this evening's desert rock line-up patron to become the first stage diver I have seen Saturday, September 27 er “Endir”) that set this album's character apart. This does not make that practically forced people to come in with cow- here in Iceland. Okay, it was his third try and he got “Karkari” a superficial pop-record. The songs are still complex, some- boy hats and spurs. Esja's powerful beginning of carried out of the venue after he had fallen off the THE VERDICT times eccentric, and packed with ideas. It just gives you the feeling their driving set started off well for half an hour. stage when he tried for his fourth drunken time; Grand revelry in honour that the band got better and more to the point. The earthy production However, after that the set seemed to lose its way but still, I will remember the third! BBB even came of Wahwah... underlines the strong points of this band – primarily, the outstanding with dreary mid-tempo songs. back for an encore after their one-and-a-half hour singing and excellent guitar work. The album also has a few short- When Brain Police started, the room was set. So in summary, everybody had fun. comings, for example, the quite lame “Dyradóttir” or the subsequent packed. The band was already being celebrated title-track with its somehow half-baked motif. However, apart from before they even began playing. Their show thri- such smaller flaws, “Karkari” is a very, very good indie-rock record. lled the frenetic crowd, sometimes a little too much (did that girl in the first row really lick the singer's sweaty belly?). They served amazing 45 minutes of billowing vapour of sound. The whole Auður, Gljúfrasteinn. Photo: Halldór Laxness, 1955 © Halldór Laxness’ Family Laxness’ © Halldór 1955 Laxness, Halldór Photo: Gljúfrasteinn. Auður,

MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS SURTSEY – GENESIS THE LATE VIEW The ancient vellums on display Multimedia exhibition on a new volcanic island Halldór Laxness’ private photographs

EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANU SCRIPTS CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP Hverfi sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) exhibition Mondays and Fridays at 3:30 pm. Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 | 17

CONCERT REVIEW By Florian zühlke — PHOTO BY GAS CD REVIEWS

THE VERDICT Convincing debut between classic rock and country

listen www.myspace.com/ esja

Esja Esja

reviewed by Florian Zühlke

As plain as the decent black artwork is, the music on this self-titled debut “Esja” contains dusty rock-music that you would expect more in the deserts of southern California than in the northern frostiness of Iceland. This album in its best moments combines the darkness of the Stone Temple Pilots with the nonchalance of old country he- roes like Tom Petty. Unfortunately the quartet cannot keep up the enormous thrill of songs like “Wind Machine”, “Hit it” or the pensive “Sound on Sound” through the whole record. The vocals are often just too simple and unimaginative. This is even more of a pity, be- cause Daniel's voice is actually perfect for Esja's music. The songs “Till the end” or “Don't Know Anything” also disappoint for their dull song writing. However the good moments prevail, which makes this a successful debut in the end.

THE VERDICT Heavy metalcore in the KOLLI ROCKING THE TYPICAL SKÁTAR LOOK vein of Atreyu, Devil Wears Prada or As I lay Dying

listen Life Will Never Suck www.myspace.com/ shogunice

As capitalist society as we know it collapsed, as me people to do so – not to mention refined ways ways of life and modes of thought became ins- of distilling all sorts of juicy alcohol – we will be WHO Shogun tantly outdated, I found myself standing in the able to keep the party going for a long time still. Skátar, Charm City middle of Kaffibarinn, humming along to Skátar. I missed all of closing band Sykur (had to Sudden Weather Change, And what a way to celebrate the end of that life go home to read angry blogs about the economy) Sykur sucking era of caviar-munching lightweights and and most of opening band Sudden Weather Chan- reviewed by MARCUS WALSH their oversized fucking cars. A huge grin on my ge (was home reading angry blogs about eco- WHERE face, I was mesmerised by their skronky delight nomy). I’ve seen SWC a bunch of times by now Kaffibarinn Shogun approaches hardcore from the metal side, as you can tell by and complex rhythms, the blood curdling presen- and have always left impressed by their spirit as the choice of metal band T-Shirts that the fivesome from Reykjavík are ce of frontman Markús and the sheer fucking de- well as their songs (those two don’t always mix). WHEN wearing for the promo photo: Norma Jean, Devil Wears Prada. These light of witnessing all those well-rehearsed spurts Judging by what I heard from the back of Kaffiba- Thursday, October 2 are perfect examples of the direction Shogun is heading. “Charm of creativity. My ears bled, and I was thankful for rinn that night, they are still going strong. I look City” has everything you would connect to a Ferret or Tooth&Nail it. We all bleed. That will never change. forward to listening to their début while reading THE VERDICT band: ultra-heavy mosh-breakdowns, 80s metal guitar-licks, sweet As guitarist Benni stumbled through yet desperate blogs about the economy. Life is good! emo-vocals and growls from the darkest depths. Actually Shogun has another of his non-solos, a thought came to mind: I made my way to the front for Skátar. I sto- done quite a job here, the songs are diversified and crisp, and the even if Iceland devolves back to a semi-Third od there gaping for all of their set, only pausing performance and the production are both very professional. The big World country whose residents feed on boiled briefly to jot down my cool realisation that no catch is that Shogun do not really come up with new ideas. That is haddock and potatoes in-between stints of actual matter where the complete collapse of capitalism why “Charm City” is a good summary of the genre in the end – and physical work for a living, this place will still be takes us, life will never suck as long as we have 1) will therefore definitely find an audience – but lacks it's own memo- pretty awesome. Because we’ve already imported A room, 2) people to fill it, 3) some instruments, rable character. most of everything we need. So many guitars to 4) folks as unabashedly creative, disciplined and bang on, so many drumkits to strum, keyboards, joyful as Skátar to play ‘em, 5) beer. saxophones, tambourines, and all these aweso-

Luxury Surprise from Ásgeir Sandholt

Laugavegi 36 Tel: 551 3524 Open Mon. - Fri 7.30 - 18.15. Saturday 7.30 -17.30. Sunday 8.30-17.00. 18 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 article By JAMES CRUGNALE article By EIRIK SÖRDAL

Iceland’s First World’s Strongest Man Great Moments in Icelandic History

When it comes to feats of strength, Iceland rules the world. With a world-leading eight World’s Strongest Man championships, the country is internationally renowned for its formidable bodybuilding fortitude and virility. Many Icelanders proudly remember when burly Jón Páll Sigmarsson lifted the coun- try up to become an international powerhouse in strength athletics. A master of the dead lift, Sig- marsson won the World’s Strongest Man competi- tion a groundbreaking four times (1984, 1986, 1988 and 1990). Throughout most of the 1980s, Sigmarsson was a larger-than-life figure with an ostentatious Vi- king persona. After bountiful powerlifting sessions, Sigmarsson became well known for busting out in- timidating, heavily Icelandic-accented one-liners. According to legend, during the 1985 WSM compe- tition, a heckler called him an Eskimo; Sigmarsson turned around, confronted the man and bellowed “I am not an Eskimo! I AM A VIKING!” This authori- tative catchphrase, often imitated by WSM fans, would forever be associated with Sigmarsson. He also, to this day, holds the record for dead- lifting at the knees, lifting a gargantuan 523 kg at the 1987 Pure Strength Ultimate Challenge Com- petition. In 1989, Sigmarsson famously crushed a bicycle with his bare hands on Icelandic television; the twisted metal remains are now on prominent display at the Iceland Sports Museum in Akranes. Tragically, Sigmarsson died in 1993 at age 32 from a heart attack while attempting a dead lift in his gym, doing the thing he loved to do best. In the years that have passed since his un- timely death, Sigmarsson has remained a largely influential figure in the pantheon of Icelandic sport. Iceland’s other World’s Strongest Man, Mag- nús Ver Magnússon, fondly reflected back upon his old friend, rival and fellow countryman. He vividly remembered how Sigmarsson motivated him to get involved in the sport. “He’s what you’d call a pioneer; the sport wasn’t so big back then. I was inspired by him,” Spam Alert! said Magnússon. “When I started training out on the east coast, I watched him on TV, I said to my Icelandic criminals may try to defraud you friends, one day, like Jón Páll, I’ll be there.” He remembered competing amicably with Sigmarsson at many events such as the Highland Games and recollected on how he loved to inter- Our attention has been brought to a growing number of scam e-mails of Icelands richest businessmen. We wish to warn against these hoax act with his fans. “I remember that he was lively, he stemming from Iceland following the increasing financial instability on letters, especially since there is such a fine line between truth and lies, loved to play with the crowd,” said Magnússon. the domestic front. The unsolicited e-mails are being sent to foreigners, laughter and tears and belief and naïvety in moments of crisis such as seemingly in order to lure them into giving away enough personal infor- the one we are currently going through in Iceland. mation for the dishonest senders to be able to transfer foreign money to Icelandic accounts. The Grapevine has received one such letter from a watchful Nigerian, where the unscrupulous sender, using a false identity, claims to be a former assistant to Mr. Björgólfur Thor Björgólfsson, one REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 | 19 article By HAUKUR S. MAGNÚSSON LOOK and Free travel bookings Icelandic Fish In All Its Forms for all services Say Hello To Your New Diet BOOK in Iceland Book hotel, guesthouse, ...free travel services whale watching, horse riding, You’ve probably heard all about our little economic col- all around Iceland glacier tours etc. lapse. For us Icelanders, it’s pretty much back to basics now. No more Caviar and Brut, no more imported Kobe Blönduós Akureyri Beef and foie gras – we are once more at the mercy of our rich fishing grounds for grub. To prepare some of you Secure Look and Book kiosks for your future diet, we shed some light on the various credit card are located inside payment fish processing methods. They come in three categories, the Information and printout Centres in these places: of booking dried, salted and rotted. Egilsstaðir confirmation. Stokkfiskur Saltfiskur With more to come soon Borgarnes Hveragerði www.lookandbook.is From the 17th throughout the 19th cen- Around 1850, Icelanders started import- tury, most fish in Iceland was processed ing salt from Spain, and at the same time into the so-called “Stokkfiskur.” That en- processing cod with it, often exporting it tails it being cut open, the spine removed right back to Spain (where it’s known as and it laid out for flat on rocks for drying Bacalao). The cod salting methods were throughout the fishing season. This was a based on those perfected by the Basque preparation for export, as well as domes- nation, and entailed removing the cods’ tic use. Icelanders used to beat the dried spines and intestines, opening them up fish up with a mallet and eat it thusly, and stacking them in a pile of salt for a do not make your whilst foreigners soaked it in oils and flu- month. The cod was then placed on a next pass the last ids and made soups and stews out of it. rocky surface, where it dried in the sun. Then they sold it to Spain, and Brazil, Icelandic roads are narrow Skreið even. Later, they started “wet-working” Icelanders don’t really eat skreið, but it it, a process where they soak the cod in was a vital export of ours throughout the saltwater for ten days or so before pack- 20th century. In English, it is called “dried ing it up and sending it off to Spain. The stockfish” and is made by hanging whole smaller fillets go to Greece. gutted cods to dry in special sheds for a month and a half. It is then packed up in Nætursaltaður fiskur burlap and shipped off to Nigeria, where “Night salted fish” is a processing method they use it in soups and stews. These where you take cod fillets and marinate days, Nigerians can’t afford the skreið so them in saltwater for the night. The day much; they rather import shipments of after, you eat them with butter, sheep-fat dried fish heads that are processed the and potatoes. A true connoisseur’s meal, same way. that is.

Harðfiskur Kæst skata & Kæstur hákarl A more processed version of Stokkfiskur, The skate and shark are chondrichthyes, Harðfiskur is a local delicacy and is even and therefore ferment when allowed to being exported to Norway these days. rot, as their urine is distributed through The fish is filleted, and the fillets are hung their flesh and goes through a chemical on a stick in a so-called “Harðfiskhjallur” change over time. They are in fact poi- (hard fish shed) for ten weeks. It is then sonous if eaten before the fermentation beaten and consumed with butter. This process is complete. The skate is ferment- processing method works for haddock, ed by throwing it in a box and letting it cod and ocean catfish. This method be- lie for three weeks. It is a popular food came popular in the latter part of the 19th in certain regions, and considered vital century and the early 20th, and has been for celebrating Christmas by many Ice- going strong ever since. landers.Shark is fermented in a similar way. First, they cut it to pieces and allow Siginn fiskur/Kúlaður steinbítur it to rot for ten weeks. Then the flesh is The “half-drying” method was a popular cut into loops and hung up for an addi- one throughout the 20th century. It basi- tional six weeks, so as to give it the rough cally entails gutting the fish and letting it texture we know and love. It is often con- hang for two weeks, then boiling it and sumed with Brennivín, as the two make eating with butter and potatoes. When it’s an excellent combo. done to haddock or cod, it’s called “sig- inn fiskur” (“lowered fish”), and when it’s done to catfish it’s called “kúlaður stein- bítur” (“balled catfish”). Both courses are considered a delicacy among Icelanders past the “pizza age”. DAY HOUSING BENEFITS tours RENT BENEFITS Housing benefits are intended for residents of Reykjavik as a financial aid to those who rent in the general market. Spectacular Application service is provided at the city’s 6 service centers and it’s also possible to apply electronically through www.rafraen.reykjavik.is. Applicants shall have reach 18 years of age, hold a legal residence in Reykjavik and be able to show a signed rental contract that has been Breathtaking registered at the district magistrade.

For further information contact you nearest service center, either directly or through Unforgettable tel: 4 11 11 11

• Vesturgarður, service centre for the residents of Vesturbaer district, Hjardarhagi 45-47, tel. 411-1700 • Hlíðar, service centre for the residents of the city centre and the district of Hlidar, Skulagata 21, tel. 411-1600 • Laugardalur and Háaleiti, service centre for the residents of the districts of Laugardalur and Haaleiti, Sidumuli 39, Glacier & Hot tel. 411-1500 • Breidholt, service centre for the residents of Breidholt, Alfabakka 12, tel. 411-1300 • Árbær and Grafarholt, service centre for the residents of the districts of Arbaer and Grafarholt, Baejarhals 1, tel. 411-1200 • Miðgarður, service centre for the residents of Grafarvogur and Kjalarnes, Langarima 21, tel. 411-1400 spring walks

Borgartun 12-14, 105 Reykjavík, Tel: 4 11 11 11, www.velferdarsvid.is [email protected] www.mountainguides.is Phone: +354 587 9999 20 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008

INTERVIEW by Marcus walsh — PHOTO BY GAS

32c

Airwaves artist to watch

Iceland Airwaves has another diverse line-up this year. Here is a look at another promising new acts– local hip-hoppers 32c.

The rap duo 32c have been together for just two months. Eighteen-year-old MCs Gauti and nine- teen-year-old Dabbi T have a distinguished repu- tation as solo rappers despite their youth. The group was formed when Gauti and Dabbi T were drunk one night. As the boys put it, this led to all kinds of complicated feelings toward one another. “We started off by hating each other and then started loving each other. Not like that though,” reassures Dabbi T. The two rappers seem very relaxed in each other’s company as we chat at Prikið. They explain that hanging out together opened up the chance to play live shows: “We started cruising around the hood of Breiðholt. We started going to shows and doing solo sets togeth- er,” explains Gauti. 32c have already been played on a variety of radio stations around Iceland and a debut album is in the works which should help secure their place in Iceland’s small rap scene: When asked about their influences Gauti Jokes, “It’s winter now, so we’re going to be emo,” While the boys owe much of their success to dedication and the natural ability to spin lyr- ics, they’ve also had some help along the way. By enlisting producer Magse, also known as Nagmus, to lay down the electronic foundations for their album they have simultaneously provided them- selves with a solid mentor. “He won an award at the Icelandic Music Awards in1998 when I was 9 years old,” explains Gauti. It seems that with Nag- mus on board, the group are in safe hands. “We are gonna be huge” asserts Dabbi T. When asked what we can expect from 32c's live show at Airwaves, Dabbi responds resolutely: “We have banging beats and fire. Just fire. Stuff you can dance to and nod your head to. The show is going to be legendary,” Gauti reinforces: “It’s go- ing to be fire.” This is the band’s first official live show together and the hype surrounding this per- formance could see something set alight.

Energy for life through forces of nature

www.bluelagoon.com »What to do and when:

Your best source for listings, info and entertainment.

» www.grapevine.is 22 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 destination — Akureyri

A Flying Visit to Akureyri A day trip to Iceland's second city

By marcus walsh - PHOTOS BY GAS

Akureyri provides a mix of natural wonder and takes inspiration in everything from Lego art to a self-portrait by Henri a process in a factory. Mixed in with the rattling of the pins was the Matisse. There was a sinister ambiance to the portrait that added a dark laughter of excited children knocking down the skittles from rebounds small town cosiness. The lofty peaks of Súlur attribute to the nice guy that gave modest interviews during his days at off the bumpers. I broke through the clatter toward the shoe hire and and Hlíðarfjall overlook the pretty port and on Bolton Wanderers and Chelsea in England. A portrait with a dark twist soon started to bowl. It started well with an opening salvo of strikes but a snowy day in early October, a day-visit was a indeed. as standard in this game, everything went pear-shaped. I managed to welcome withdrawal from rickety Reykjavík. Just below the Art Museum was the Jónas Viðar Gallery which score 92. It was only 700 ISK for a game though and was good fun. was showing the Tómt / Empty exhibit, a collection of multi-coloured Next, it was time for a steak. The magnificent view at Brasserie After a sleepy flight I quickly scored a lift into the hub of Akureyri with a stripey frames, displaying a white walled middle. This was an inverted Strikið comes highly recommended. Located on the fifth floor of Ski- girl and her uncle, who happens to makes some of the most expensive take on the way one perceives a text, making the exterior the true sub- pagata 14, overlooking epic, snow-covered mountains, I could see their ice cream in Iceland. I struck it lucky here, for there seemed to be no ject, encouraging the viewer to literally “think outside the box”. Across summits along with the pier in a sensational combination of the aquatic bus from the airport to the centre. The only options are to cab it or to the street in Café Karólína, I grabbed a beer and gazed into the sub- and alpine. I sat at the bar and had a glass of Italian house red and a indeed hitch a ride. I was dropped off at Kaupvangsstræti, reportedly oceanic art. There were purple swirls on the wall that made me feel Sirloin Steak with Béarnaise Sauce. Béarnaise is “an egg yolk, a shallot, the main art street. like the waitress could perhaps be a mermaid herself. Karólína seemed a little tarragon vinegar, and butter, but it takes years of practice for the It was cold. I was jaded. I needed coffee and paintings. The like it could double up as a decent afternoon stop-off and a late night result to be perfect,” said early twentieth century restaurateur Fernand Akureyri Art Museum provided both. Inside, I discovered a curious haunt. Point. The chefs at Strikið were not far away from achieving this. The mix of furniture, jewellery and fashion. It was like a warped-out retail Continuing my gallery crawl, I then checked out Gallery DaLí, a sauce was ambrosial in its taste and the side dish of seasoned chip- space. I bypassed this visual junket as light gave way to sound. I heard a small studio space and workshop that’s normally only available to the cum-wedges was mightily satisfying. The waiter didn´t ask me how I looped vocal refrain reeling me in like a helpless alevin. A tender male public during weekends. The friendly co-owner’s painting of an angry liked my steak, and just served it well-done, but today I didn´t mind voice lamented the line “Sorrow Conquers Happiness,” over and over polar bear holding the Icelandic flag was brilliant. She told me it was because I was in my element. There were Oktoberfest prices for beer so again. I made my way inside the installation, through the portal that painted in response to the controversial June shooting of a polar bear 400 ISK was a bargain for a pint before my surprise birthday chocolate was made of pink velvet curtain. In a small private booth I found artist in Skagafjörður, and that her art made the covers of multiple newspa- cake arrived at the bar. I was certainly happy but felt more stuffed than Ragnar Kjartansson’s video installation. pers in the area. I interpreted her painting as a reputable reaction to the a turkey. I left in great spirits and waddled my way over to Cafe Amour Kjartansson’s work, entitled ‘God,’ sees him fronting a chamber unfortunate shooting and I felt like the painting deserved a permanent whereby more Oktoberfest prices meant a couple more gluttonous orchestra playing progressive, ethereal harmonies that continuously place in a large art museum. beers before catching my flight back to Reykjavik. Miraculously, I didn´t coil the same lyric around the thirty minute entirety of the piece. I Afterwards, I decided to explore the town for myself and took a weigh the plane down. didn´t stay for the whole length; an artist ‘playing God’ in such a man- walk along the seafront to see the polychrome homes. It was zero de- Overall, I found Akureyri to be a beautiful retreat. It’s not like ner tests one’s staying power. However, as I made for the exit, the allure grees celsius and wrapped up warm, heading away from the hub, I felt Reykjavík has the bustle of London or Paris, or that it causes a day- re-emerged. Another fix was needed. I felt strangely hypnotised, look- absolute gratitude towards my location. Earlier on, when I stopped by to-day headache. But such a matchless place is Iceland that you can ing at the artist pour his heart out into the vintage microphone. I longed an outdoor pursuits centre asking what they recommended doing dur- legitimately go from the largest, to the second biggest city to be at one to be in a different decade and this clever synthesis of 1950's attire and ing this early Friday evening, the rep sardonically mentioned a bowl- with nature, to seek manumission from stress and to witness a humble modern video art left a huge impression hanging over my memory of ing alley about a kilometre away from the centre. Because it had been town at the start of autumn, free from summer tourist rumble. the whole trip. a while since I last played, I dutifully obliged. It was surreal, because Another highlight was the portrait of football player and national there was not a soul in sight outdoors but at the alley was the local Air Iceland hero Eiður Smári Guðjohnsen of Barcelona. The artist Siggi Eggertsson bowling contingent. Men with long hair were churning out strikes like www.airiceland.is

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Vg{ghi†\jg&)!cZVg=aZbbjgWjhhiVi^dc!iZa#**&%)%% Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur @g^c\aVcH]dee^c\BVaa!iZa#*+-%)%%Ælll#bncYa^hi#^h REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 | 23

INTERvIEW BY BeRguR eBBI BeneDIKTSSon — pHoTo BY gAS

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Tilveran Restaurant – tel. (+354) 565-5250 – Linnetstíg 1, Hafnar örður We don´t serve foreigners... because to us - nobody is foreign. Only 45 min. drive from Reykjavík is Eyrarbakki, a beautiful village by the south coast, where foreigners have been feeling at home since the 9th century AD. So welcome to Rauða húsið, a restaurant that Macbeth: Brutal and Direct makes you feel at home. Tel: (+354) 483-3330, Eyrarbakki - South coast

The entry hall of the Icelandic National Theatre’s Smíðaverk- supposed to be focused on the story instead of the words,” stæði, is filled with a Shakespearean props; armor, swords says Stefán Hallur and points out that a delivery of the origi- and Elizabethian furniture, are scattered all over the room. nal text can sometimes take more than four hours in perfor- The theatre-hall where the play is delivered has no props at mance but this version will be finished in about an hour and all. It is actually more like a slaughterhouse with varnished a half. “We are not dissembling the play because it is 400 floors and plastic covered seats. The idea behind the prop- years old and somebody had to do it, or because we think we filled entry hall versus the stripped down stage is not a co- are young and hip and Shakespeare is old and boring. On the incidence. contrary our goal was to show respect to the storyline and do “When people walk in they can sit down in the entry our best to deliver that,” he adds. hall and have a beer surrounded by all these props that re- mind them of a typical Macbeth production. But when they STuDIED DICTAToRS go into the stage hall they are supposed to be stripped of So the play is not modernized or put into Icelandic context? everything except the play itself,” explains director Stefán “No it’s not,” says Tobias. “Still we’ve studied certain things Hallur Stefánsson violating a long held believe that uttering that took place long after the play was written, like the re- the word “Macbeth” during production will curse the play. lationships some Eastern-European dictators had with their wifes,” he says and names Ceaucescu and Milosevic as ex- MACBETh: AlSo CRAZY oFFSTAGE amples but their wives, like Macbeth’s, played a big role in “Macbeth, Macbeth, Macbeth,” says Tobias. “I don’t think their abuse of power. “The text is not altered to put a light on there is a curse. I think mishaps that take place when the play contemporary events but it is so brilliantly written by Shake- is set up have more to do with the ego of the actor playing the speare that it does it anyway,” says Stefán Hallur and points main role. The role is very demanding and the actor playing out that the play might put recent developments in Reykjavík it has to become a maniac in some ways and that can create city politics in a new perspective. problems,” he says and grins, perhaps because it is director What about non-Icelandic speaking theatre-goers? Is Stefán Hallur who also takes on the role of the mad Scottish there something in the production for them? “I think this king and murderer. Maybe Tobias has a point though. Dur- play is more accessible to non-Icelandic speakers than many ing our conversation, Stefán Hallur has problems staying still. other shows in Iceland. We use stage-craft in an authentic He walks the floors and instead of answering questions in a way and at least I will enjoy the play very well though I don’t calm manner, he delivers short dramatic monologues about speak the language,” says Tobias and chuckles. the production. “Our goal with this production was to do something INFo more than deliver text. We want to show rather than tell. It Macbeth is shown on the is supposed to be driven by action. Tobias and I examined Smíðaverkstæðið stage of the original English text by Shakespeare carefully and tried the National Theatre in to find the core in the story. The dialogue was then made out November. of three different Icelandic translations and the outcome is

Licensing and registration of travel- EXPECT related services The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents, as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres. HANG Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet OVERS... website. Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the Icelandic Tourist Board.

THE BIGGEST CLUB IN List of licenced Tour DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. Operators and Travel Agencies on: LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. visiticeland.com WWW.NASA.IS 24 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 destination

South Shore Adventure by Florian zühlke — Photo by GAS

Although the Golden Circle tour may include the most popular places of interest with Gulfoss, Þingvellir and the geysers, there are still a lot of things left to see in Iceland's countryside. A great opportunity to see a whole bunch of beautiful places is to travel the south shore. Half an hour drive to the southeast from Reykjavík is the village of Hveragerði. A hot spring provides the heat for various greenhouses, where vegetables and flowers are grown. The town is like an oasis in the harsh landscape that surrounds it. Another 50 kilometres from there you will spot Hekla, amidst the grass-farmland. The active volcano thrones majestically over green hillsides; its top is hidden by greyish clouds. It's an impres- sive view, which makes you understand why peo- ple in the Middle Ages assumed the entrance to hell to be under the mountain. Ascending Hekla in the summer is a popular daytrip that can be done either on foot or even better by super-jeep. Yet be aware that the time span between signal- ling earthquakes and an actual eruption could be less than half an hour. Close by are the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. The 66 meter high Seljalandsfoss is especially popular, because you can walk be- hind it. Skógafoss is not too far from the village of Skógar. It is embedded in a colourful red and green mountainscape. If you take the adventure of following the small path to the top of the waterfall you will be rewarded with an overwhelming view of the crushing water. Iceland's southernmost town, Vík, is located about 30 kilometres from here. The town itself has not much to offer, but its hinterland has all the more. Within a few minutes’ drive, you can take a walk at the black beach with a view of Reynis- drangar – black cliffs that rise sharply from the sea. You can also go trekking on Iceland's fourth biggest glacier, Mýrdalsjokull. Guided hiking tours are available all year. Thus there are good reasons to take a to the south, when leaving the capital.

Reykjavík Excursions BSI Bus Terminal www.re.is The Tour is available daily from 09:00–19:00

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Get your action-packed day tour brochurehure / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS at hotels, airports or any travel agent. REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 | 25

destination

Sundhöll Reykjavíkur

by Stevie Ward — Photo by GAS

Every village in Iceland with more than 100 inhab- itants has a swimming pool, but Sundhöll Reyk- javíkur on Barónsstígur is the most unforgettable. Opened in 1937 and built for 650,000 ISK, it was designed by state architect Guðjón Samúelsson, whose stunning Art Deco creations were once deemed ‘too dramatic’ for the Icelandic skyline. Thankfuly his work has now become the classic ar- chitectural style of the capital and this building had become a muse for the remarkable photographic mural by Roni Horn, Janus and Tinna’s underwater concerts in 2007 and a Gusgus’s movie. Iceland’s swimming culture is vast and the popular- ity of the pastime is prominent in all of the venues, but the true experience at this pool in particular is in the changing room. Inspired by the countryside’s turf houses, the white arched, cavernous changing rooms and 30’s style locker system makes you feel like you’re lost in some kind of Grecian bath or Ital- ian labyrinth. The naturally filtered Icelandic water means low levels of chlorine but high levels of hygiene. Although this makes for a more relaxing swim, one must wash naked before getting in; a true test of confidence for naturally prudish British or Ameri- can tourists. The inside pool is large, cool and inviting with a high diving board where you can show off your athletic prowess by doing barrel-rolls. Out- side in the open-air, the hot tubs are social and fun. You can sit in the water, stewing like a mana- tee at any time of year, making conversation or plotting world domination with the other inhabit- ants whilst the water spills over the entrance way steps like a waterfall. These little pools are even better in the winter and at night, the snow and rain making you feel even more cozy and warm, the steam evaporating like smoke up into the dark Ice- landic sky. It’s an ideal aquatic venue for those in Iceland’s capital.

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Get your action-packed day tour brochurehure / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS at hotels, airports or any travel agent. 26 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 16—2008 the list by Bergur ebbi benediktsson — PHOTOs BY GAS top Airwaves Moments

Egill Tómasson is a 32 year old musi- !!! (chk chk chk) at Airwaves 2007 cian and staff member of the music pro- 1 The concert was at Nasa and it is probably one of the best performances motion company Mr. Destiny which or- I’ve ever seen. ganises the Iceland Airwaves Festival. It is safe to say he is busy these days, Hot Chip on Nasa at Airwaves 2004 as this year’s festival will hold between 2 At that time nobody really knew anything about the band. People had only 150 and 170 artists. Egill says people heard some demos that had been circulating on the internet. Nevertheless, can expect an energetic and upbeat these guys made everybody crazy with joy. festival. “People need energy right now,” says Egill, and it is hard not to The Rapture and Minus at Gaukurinn at Airwaves 2002 link his words to the situation of the Ice- Mínus were performing like an Icelandic rock band had never done before landic economy. When asked to name 3 and the Rapture, which had only released one single at that point, basically the biggest international acts perform- blew the roof away. ing on this year’s festival, Egill names the dance-friendly CSS, the indie-rock Sigur Rós played in Fríkirkjan at Airwaves 2000 group Vampire Weekend, the hip Swed- The church was filled with journalists and record company people and the ish electro act Familien, as well as the 4 band totally charmed them. It was a great moment to witness. Canadian bands Crystal Castles and Ju- nior Boys. He has a harder time picking The first Iceland Airwaves festival out the most interesting Icelandic acts Gus Gus played in Hangar 4 at the Reykjavík Airport. I was just a guest then but he encourages guests to check out 5 but I remember thinking: “These guys at Mr. Destiny sure are clever to organ- as many of them as possible. “We’ve got ise a music festival like this in Iceland” it all. If people want something great Egill Tómasson with an electric beat they’ll find it and if they want something slow and emo it will be there for them too,” says Egill. top Sequences moments

Tinna Guðmundsdóttir is a 29 year old Theresa Himmer, Waterfall, in Sequences 2006 artist and the manager of the art festi- 1 A beautiful sequin wall artwork, in a superb location in Bankastræti. Very val Sequences, which runs in Reykjavík sneaky, the work has been there for two years and people are still noticing it for from October 11 through to October 17. the first time. The festival is independent and puts fo- cus on contemporary and avant-garde Ragnar Kjartansson, God, in Sequences 2007 art. “This year we will have all kinds 2 A very ambitious and well produced solo exhibition at The Living Art Museum. of interesting stuff,” says Tinna. “I rec- Ragnar sang his philosophy in such a hypnotizing way that the artist was nomi- ommend a happening in Hafnarhúsið nated for the Sjónlistaverðlaun, The Icelandic Visual Awards. where the artist Rúrí collaborates with the composer Jóhann Jóhannsson. An Andrew Burges, Another Þing, in Sequences 2006 event in Iðnó where, among others, the 3 Twisted and revolving projection on the Icelandic Parliament. Political or not, French Yroyto and Transforma from very visually pleasing and original piece. Germany will do a cool interactive video-jockey set and a performance in Twisted and revolving projection Grótta Lighthouse where Elín Hansdót- 4 on the Icelandic Parliament tir and her brother Úlfur will conduct Political or not, very visually pleasing and original piece.Such a calm and peace- the choir of Seltjarnarnes and make it ful installation on the front side of the building that Kronkron is located. Wish it sing a scale which is hard to register could have been permanent. whether is moving up or down,” says Tinna, and points out that these ex- Curver Thoroddsen, Junk for sale, in Sequences 2007 amples only represent a small part of 5 The artist had a garage sale in the entrance of the National gallery of Iceland. The all the interesting stuff that the festival performance was very experimental and crossed institutional boundaries. Tinna Guðmundsdóttir has to offer. A full schedule of events on Sequences is included in this issue of Grapevine. top Five garments for the winter

Ásta Kristjánsdóttir is a 36 year old A Darth Vader coat from E-Label photographer and the manager of 1 What is better than a stylish multi-purpose garment which is also warm? the clothing line E-Label. She is also known for being the founder of the A down jacket modelling agency Eskimo Models. 2 It’s basically essential if you live in Iceland to own a big and warm down Ásta’s most recent project is opening a jacket. Instead of complaining about the weather, people should dress well. women’s clothing store along with Só- That way you enjoy the winter a lot more. ley Ástudóttir. The store, which is locat- ed on Laugavegur 33, will sell products Leggings from the clothing line Aftur from E-Label and Sóley’s clothing line 3 They are good products that are made to last. It is good to own a few of them Emm along with other fashion lines. in different colours to spice up your overall style. “We put emphasis on classic design. Everything in the store is black and a hooded sweater with a visor designed by Eygló made out of strong and cosy fabrics. 4 These sweaters come in bright and fresh colours and will make up for the The garments can both be worn in a lack of daylight during the winter. They are sold in Kronkron. casual and dressy manner. They are supposed be multi-purpose,” says Ásta. A Goth shawl with a tie-dye pattern from E-label “The target group is women from the 5 This is a type of warm and soft garment you can easily throw on if it is cold age of 18 to 60. Women who don’t have outside to make you feel better. much time but always want to look styl- ish.” Ásta also points out that people should welcome this store despite the situation in the economy. “The prod- ucts are manufactured in India and Ásta Kristjánsdóttir are the cheapest designer’s clothes in Iceland” The only thing lower than the standard of this ad ...

... the price of a Sixt Rent a Car.

(Book at www.sixt.is, call 540 2222 or contact your Hotel reception.) Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 16 — October 10 - November 6 2008 www.grapevine.is

Stuffed with stuff

You ain't seen nothing yet... President Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson teaches Brits lessons from “the Icelandic Economic Wonder" Page 11

Nazism never really took root in Iceland during the 30s. It may simply be because there was no significant Jewish com- munity to use as scapegoats. Immigration to Iceland only really started in the 90s. Former Grapevine editor Valur Gunnarsson provides an insight Page 14

Even if Iceland devolves back to a semi-Third World coun- try whose residents feed on boiled haddock and potatoes in-between stints of actual physical work for a living, this place will still be pretty awesome. A Grapevine journalist finds faith in life, the universe and everything at a Skátar gig Page 17

People can watch endless amounts of graffiti just like pornography; you can watch endless amounts of sex with bad production value but there’s no context to the films. Bomb It’ director Jon Reiss likes his graffiti contextual Page 8

I turn to you dear friend be- cause as the old Icelandic say- ing goes: Naked is everyone´s back unless he has a brother. If this request appeals to you, please forward to me your telephone number, your fax number and your full name and address to enable my law- yer to send you the relevant documents needed for you to receive the sum of $31 million to your personal or corporate valid bank account in Russian Federation, Africa or Asia. Friðþjófur Már Másson in a NigerIcelandic e-mail scam that’s making the rounds Page 18 Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map + Stand tall with Lay Low · Jóhannes Kjarval: Master Painter · Airwaves: It’s Time Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 16 2008 www.grapevine.is What: Iceland Airwaves 2008 (B2) B2 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008 Listings Music Airwaves... it´s time!

We’ve waited and waited and it’s finally In addition to the music check out the here. Bands from all over the world will special screenings of the film Electronic What be heading to down town Reykjavik Reykjavik and the party at the Blue Music Festival October 15-19 to play their hearts out Lagoon. Where: at the biggest music festival in Iceland. With over 150 bands this year, this Several Venues Keep your eye out for up and coming festival will take endurance (to hit up in Downtown Reykjavik bands that will knock your socks off as act after act and dance, dance, dance,) When: well as old favourites that are ready to concentration (to study the schedule October 15-19 delight you with their killer live shows. and know which acts you want to see,) This year’s line up includes interna- and a high tolerance for alcohol. So Check out: tional band like Vampire Weekend, El start training now. www.icelandairwaves.com Perro Del Mar and These New Puritans for more information and local bands like FM Belfast, Benni Hemm Hemm and Celestine.

Music Art Stand tall with Lay Low Master

Since 2006, Lovísa Elísabet Sigrúnardót- This will be the release show of her new Painter tir, guitarist and keyboarder for the album, “Farewell Good Night’s Sleep”, popular group Benny Crespo’s Gang, which will be released in Iceland on the has performed nationwide by her stage 16 October. Lay Low is also performing Johannes Sveinsson Kjarval who lived name Lay Low. In her short time in the at this year’s Airwaves the same night, so from 1885 to 1972, is know as an Ice- limelight, Lay Low has had quite an im- consider this performance a preview. landic art legend and is Iceland’s most pact on the Icelandic music scene. She famous painter. He is so well respected won two Icelandic Music Awards in 2006 Where: that his portrait is depicted on the 2000 and was voted most popular Icelandic Fríkirkjan Church krona banknote. His work is on display artist shortly after. Laufásvegi 13, 101 Reykjavík now until December 31 at the Reykjavik Her sultry vocals and her confident stage When: Art Museum. presence make her a memorable starlet Thursday, October 16, 21:00 The painter grew up on the East Bor- with a knack for folk rhythms. A prolific garfjord bay and much of his artwork songwriter as well, Lay Low has a poetic features the soft colours and the rich lyricism that recalls an edgier Alison 1 E8 texture of the bucolic countryside. He Krauss. filled his work with a mixture of the rugged landscapes of Iceland and the mythical sprit of the country’s culture and history. His work has been exhib- ited around the world at prestigious art galleries like the Chelsea in New York and the Museum of Modern Art.

Where: Reykjavik Art Museum Tryggvagata 17 When: Now - December 31 Open 10:00 – 17:00 daily

2 E5 B3 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008 Listings

If you would like to be included Hressó B5 Iceland in the Grapevine listings, free of 22:00 Live band Galaxia in DJ Leifur. Airwaves charge, contact the Grapevine by concert. Café Cultura email at [email protected]. Iðno 23:00 DJ Kári Label Night 23:00 Heimilstónar. Q-Bar Upcoming... oct. 15th Kaffibarinn 23:00 DJ Ási. 23:00 DJ Casanova. Rósenberg Laugardalshöll 22:00 Sigga Dis in concert. Music & 20:00 Vilhjálmur Vilhjálmsson. Solón Releases NASA 23:00 DJ Andres and 110. Entertainment 23:00 DJ James Holden and Nathan Fake. Our releases fridaY oct 10 Oliver thursdaY oct 16 23:30 DJ Brynjar Már. Apótek Prikið Around Down Town Reykjavik 21:00 Live Music with various DJs. 22:00 Skratz Showcase. Free Iceland Airwaves Festival. Café Cultura Booze. DJs Gisli Galdur, Benny B B5 23:00 DJs Karius and Bactus. Ruff and Addi Intro. 23:00 DJ Einar. Café Paris Q-Bar Café Cultura DJ Andri Ramirez and Stjáni. 23:00 DJ Shaft ( House / Garage / 21:00 Mau Live (PT) and DJ Árni. Glaumbar Nu Jazz). Frikirkja Church 23:00 Miller Time with DJ Lurkur. Rósenberg 21:00 Lay Low release concert. Hressó 23:00 Andres þor Trio. Glaumbar 21:00 Troubadours Gotti and Eysi live. Sólon 23:00 Beat Box with OjBa Rasta 23:00 DJ Kristján. 23:00 Open until red morning. DJs Dub. Kaffibarinn all night long. The Icelandic Symphony 23:00 DJ Alfons X. The Icelandic Symphony Orchestra Laugardalshöll Orchestra 19:30 Sibelius Symphony Cycle. 20:00 Vilhjálmur Vilhjálmsson. 14:00 Gypsies - A family concert. Oliver Retro stefson - Montaña Nordic House Vegamót 21:00 Live music. 20:00 Celtic and Scottish dance 23:00 Hannes and Benni. Rósenberg Released October 15th night with live band Ceilidh. Cost: 22:00 Jazz: Draumar and 1200 ISK. SpilisSpilis. Oliver sundaY oct 12 Solón 23:30 DJ Brynjar Már. 21:00 Troubadour on second floor. Prikið B5 Vegamót 22:00 Retro Stefson in concert. Live music. 23:00 DJ Gorilla funk. Q-Bar Prikið 23:00 DJ Manny 22:00 Hangover Movie Night. fridaY oct 17 Rósenberg Rósenberg 23:00 Múlinn Jazz Comany 21:00 live band Misery loves Around Down Town Reykjavik presents another three days of Company Iceland Airwaves Festival. live jazz. Apótek Sólon 23:00 Dance music with various DJs 23:00 Party downstairs, dance mondaY oct 13 B5 upstairs. 23:00 DJ Jonas. Tunglið Háskólabíó Café Cultura 23:00 DJ Tweak. 20:00 Ella Dís. 23:00 Tab 22, DJ vasco Fortes, Vegamót GusGus DJ set. DJ Simon. Café Paris Reykjavík! - The Blood tuesdaY oct 14 23:00 DJ Andri Ramirex and Stjáni. Released October 15th saturdaY oct 11 Oliver Glaumbar 22:00 Live Music. 23:00 DJ Valdi. Apótek Q-Bar Hressó Live music with various DJs. 22:00 Open Mic with Elin Ey and 1:00 DJ Maggi. Distribution B5 Myrra. Kaffibarinn 23:00 DJ Jónas. Rósenberg 23:45 Psychedelic / Alternative / Café Cultura 22:00 The Memphis Mafia. Club. 23:00 Party Zone Party. Oliver Cafe Paris 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. 23:00 DJ Andre. wednesdaY oct 15 Rósenberg Glaumbar 21:00 Mike Pollock and Kentucky DJ Stjáni. Around Down Town Reykjavik blues grass. Iceland Airwaves Festival.

Music & Entertainment | Venue finder

22 Good for anyone look- Celtic Cross Highlander ing for a decent band, Rex Laugavegur 22 | G7 ing for a deal, there Hverfisgata 26 | H6 Lækjargata 10 | E7 chances are you’ll find Austurstræti | E5 A popular place are enough tables for Arguably the most If you prefer Scottish it at NASA. Rex is quite fancy among the city´s party everyone and TVs for authentic Irish pub to Irish, this might be Næsti Bar and you may feel out Skakkamanage - scenesters, this three sport | watching. outside Ireland, a very the place for a single Ingólfstræti 1A | F6 of place if you don’t storied bar makes for Bjarni Fel lively space where malt. On nights where dress up a bit. One of a great night out with Austurstræti 20 | E5 you’ll often find live Hressó queues snake down the more posh spots All Over the Face chatting upstairs and Named after the Ice- music, sometimes two Austurstræti 20 | E5 Laugavegur, Næsti Bar in town. dancing downstairs land’s most legendary bands playing at once. With a spacious can be great place to Rósenberg Released November 1st with regular DJs. sports commentator, Dillon neutral interior, pleas- sneak off to and chat Klapparstígur 25 | G7 Amsterdam this is the place for the Laugavegur 30 | H7 ant courtyard and a with friends over a Live music venue that Hafnarstræti 5 | E6 three Bs: ball, burger The quintessential varied lunch menu, beer. Frequented also has something to of- Kaffi Amsterdam and beer. rock pub Dillion serves Hressó attracts no by the literary and act- fer every single night, seems to have been Boston moderately priced specific type of crowd. ing elite. ranging from rock to around forever, though Laugavegur 28b | H6 drinks, and has pretty Tap beer and music Óliver jazz to poetry. You recently it’s been rein- A fresh addition to the good music, too. The makes a fair hangout Laugavegur 20A | H7 name it, they got it. vented as a live venue. Reykjavík bar scene. mix of students and on weekends. This nightclub attracts Sólon Good music, cheap Roomy bar floor, nice tattooed tough guys Hverfisbarinn a crowd of crazy danc- Bankastræti 7A | F5 beer, and colorful sofas and stylish inte- always creates a fun Hverfisgata 20 | G6 ers that may not be Truly a jack of all characters to be found. rior make this a comfy atmosphere. After a long line, you’ll for everyone. In which trades establishment. Apótek café as well as a tavern Dubliner get in and wonder case, air conditioning By night a decent res- Austurstræti 16 | E5 with good, unintrusive Hafnarstræti 4 | E5 what all the fuss was and fine food make taurant, by day a café/ Sporting a chic and music. The city’s main Irish about. You may end Oliver a good lunch bistro and on Friday pristine interior with Café Cultura pub attracts quite a lot up here if you’re still spot. and Saturday nights a a healthy club atmo- Hverfisgata 18 | G6 of foreigners, though going at 4 on a Sunday Ölstofan nightclub. Art exhibi- sphere. Cultura is a café/bar there´s an influx of morning, in which case Vegamótastígur | G6 tions on the walls to B5 with a party feel. The locals on weekends. it’s just as good as any. No tricks here. You’ll top it off. Bankastræti 5 | F6 menu features all sorts Good if you’re looking Kaffi Hljómalind want just simple beer Thorvaldsen By day a chic little of international dishes, for the darker stuff Laugavegur 23 | G6 in this simple pub. Austurstræti 8 | E5 bistro with good food alongside the staple on tap. This organic, free- Also the hangout for Dress formally for this and a prime loca- salad and sandwich. Glaumbar trade café prides itself Reykjavík intellectual fancy spot, and come FM Belfast - tion for Laugavegur Café Paris Tryggvagata 20 | E4 not only on great food circles before 12 to avoid a people watching | Austurstræti 14 | E5 The premier sports bar and coffee but being a Prikið long line. DJs play How to Make Friends by night a stylish bar With an outdoor ter- in town, though after strong cultural center, Bankastræti | F5 Thursdays, Fridays and with a “whiskey room” race, this café gets the final whistle, DJs hosting live music as Part of the Reykjavík Saturdays. Released October 15th and manhattanesque busy on sunny days. take the floor and be- well as lectures and bar scene for decades, Vegamót clientele. With a cosy interior, gin a night of feverish poetry nights. this café/bar has a Vegamótastígur 4 | G6 Bar 11 fine menu and atten- dancing. Kaffibarinn fairly cheap menu and Vegamót´s kitchen is Laugavegur 11 | G6 tive service, it makes a Grand Rokk Bergstraðastræti 1 | F6 attracts a mix of stu- open until 22.00 daily The sweatiest Rock fine spot for evening Smiðjustígur | G6 A popular place to dents and old regulars. and sports an appeal- joint on the northern dining as well. As its Viking theme ac- grab a drink after work, R&B and Hip-Hop ing lunch menu. Come Check out our Webstore... hemisphere. Mötley Café Victor curately displays, this this daytime coffee plays on weekends. for a tasty brunch on Crüe would have Hafnarstræti 1-3| D4 hardcore chess hang- joint roils with night- Q-Bar weekends. If you like played this bar 25 Victor attracts a di- out is no place for the time activity on week- Ingólfstræti 3 | F6 Óliver, try Vegamót years ago and still be verse crowd, both in lily livered. Take the ends with live DJs. A roomy gay/straight and vice versa. The talking about it. age and origin, a rule pub quiz on Fridays at Parties often pound bar. Some of the party goes on late. Belly´s that extends to the 17.30, the winner gets until dawn. best DJs in town play www.kimirecords.net Hafnarstræti 18a | E5 musicians that play a free case of beer! NASA regularly, making it an Belly´s deserves praise there. Þorvaldsenstræti 2| E6 especially lively space for having the cheap- The main live venue in on weekends. kimi records est bar prices around. town. If you are look- B4 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008 Listings

The Icelandic Symphony Q-Bar Café Cultura Orchestra 21:00 Open Mic with Elín Ey and 23:00 DJ Jón Atli. 19:30 Sibelius Symphony Cycle. Myrra. Café Paris Vegamót Rósenberg 23:00 DJ Andri Ramirex and 23:45 DJ Simon. 20:00 Hek band. Stjáni. Glaumbar SATURDAY oct 18 WEDNESDAY oct 22 23:00 DJ Lurkur. Hressó Around Down Town Reykjavik Café Cultura 22:00 Live music by Mama’s Iceland Airwaves Festival. 23:00 DJ Gauti. Handbag. Apótek Kaffibarinn Oliver 21:00 Dance music with various 23:00 Bedroom Community 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. DJs. #4. Ben Frost feat. Borgar Prikið B5 Magnússon. 21:00 HipHop Hip Hop act 32c 23:45 DJ Simon. Kaffitár Café Crew in concert. After that DJ Café Cultura 20:00 Tango Milonga. Danni Deluxe. 21:00 Majiker live, DJ Nuno Lx Prikið Q-Bar and DJ Avanty. 22:00 Milk night with DJ Rósa. 23:00 DJ de la rosa. Glaumbar Q-Bar Rósenberg 23:00 DJ Valdi. 23:00 DJ Ási. 21:00 Hraun concert. Hressó Rósenberg Salurinn 1:00 DJ Maggi 21:00 Árstiðir band. 21:00 Svona eru Menn. Oliver Solón Solón 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. 23:00 DJ Andres & 110. 23:00 Party downstairs, dance Prikið upstairs. 22:00 Hangover cinema. Tunglið Q-Bar THURSDAY oct 23 23:00 DJ Casanova. 23:00 Party Zone Night with Vegamót Multiple DJs. B5 23:00 DJ Jónas. Rósenberg 23:00 DJ Jónas. 22:00 Hraun concert. Café Cultura Sólon 23:00 DJ Örn. Saturday oct 25 23:00 Downstairs: Party. Upstairs: Glaumbar Dance. 23:00 Bít Box Rvk Beat Apótek The Icelandic Symphony Generation. 23:00 Dance DJs. Orchestra Hressó B5 17:00 Sibelius Symphony Cycle. 22:00 Live music by troubadours 23:00 DJ Leifur. Vegamót Jogvan and Vignir. Café Cultura 22:00 DJ Hannes. Oliver 23:00 Alfons X. 21:00 Live music. Café Paris Prikið 23:00 DJ Andri Ramirex SUNDAY oct 19 23:00 Milk night with DJ Gaudi. and Stjáni. Q-Bar Glaumbar B5 23:00 DJ de la rosa. 23:00 DJ Lurkur. 21:00 Live band chillout. Rósenberg Hressó Café Cultura 21:00 Múlinn Jazz Company 22:00 Live music by band Ímynd 21:00 Iberian DJ set, Avanty, present another 3 days of live jazz. followed by DJ Stjáni. Vasco Fortes, and Nuno Lx. Solón Kaffibarinn Hallgrimskirkja 21:00 Troubadour on second floor. 23:00 DJ Kari. 17:00 Concert by the oratorial Salurinn Oliver choir of Nidaros cathedral. from 21:00 Svona eru Menn. 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. Trondheim, Norway. The Icelandic Symphony Prikið Prikið Orchestra 22:00 Band Ultra Mega 21:00 Hang-Over Cinema. 19:30 A Gypsy Gala. Technóbandið Stefán in concert. Popcorn and Coke available. Vegamót After that DJ Anna Brá. Rósenberg 23:00 DJ Hannes. Q-Bar 23:00 Andrea Gylfa. 23:00 Somewhere farewell Living Museum by the Sea concert. Friday oct 24 Rósenberg Tuesday oct 21 21:00 Ljótu fávitarnir. Apótek Solón Oliver 23:00 Dance DJ. 21:00 Party downstairs, dance 21:00 Live music. B5 upstairs. 23:00 DJ Einar. Tunglið Víkin 23:00 DJs AJ and Ghozt. Reykjavik Art | Venue finder 101 Gallery Gallery Dwarf hosts Wed–Sat 12–17 Hitt Húsið The National Gallery Reykjavík Art Maritime Museum Hverfisgata 18A | F6 exhibitions which www.galleriagust.is – Gallery Tukt of Iceland Museum Thu–Sat 14–17 and by speak straight to the Gallerí Ágúst is a Pósthússtræti 3-5 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | E8 Open daily 10–16 appointment hearts of the “cute” contemporary art | E6 Tue–Sun 11–17 www.listasafnreykja- www.101hotel. generation. gallery in the centre www.hitthusid.is www.listasafn.is vikur.is is/101hotel/101gallery/ The Einar Jónsson of Reykjavík. With an Initially thought of Houses the national Ásmundur Sveinsson Located in the 101 Museum ambitious programme as a hobby centre to art collection and is Sculpture Museum of exhibitions, it also Hotel, features a Eiriksgata | G9 keep the youth from the centre of research Sigtún broad selection of Tue–Sun 14–17 presents and sells art- drinking, Hitt húsið is and documentation of Hafnarhús international and local www.skulptur.is work of Icelandic and still operational and Icelandic art. Tryggvagata 17 | E5 Open daily from 11am to 5pm international artists. contemporary art. Features a permanent organises events as The National Kjarvalsstaðir Closed Mondays Artótek exhibition on the Gallery Fold well as hosting art Museum Flókagata | K11 exhibitions in their Gal- Specialising in Tryggvagata 15 | D5 sculptor Einar Jónsson Rauðarástígur 14-16 Suðurgata 41 | C9 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu as well as temporary | J9 lery – Gallery Tukt. Open daily 10–17 contemporary art by Víkin 10–19, Fri 11–19, Sat exhibits. Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat i8 Gallery natmus.is/ local and international artists. Free entrance. Grandagarði 8 - 101 Reykjavík and Sun 13–17 Fótógrafí 11–16 / Sun 14–16 Klapparstígur 33 | G7 Established in 1863, Tel: 517 9400 www.sjominjasafn.is www.sim.is/Index/ Skólavörðustígur 4a www.myndlist.is Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat this museum features Reykjavík City More of an art auction Islenska/Artotek | F7 13–17 and by appoint- exhibits on Icelandic Theatre An Icelandic art www.fotografi.is than just a gallery, Fold ment. www.i8.is cultural heritage. Listabraut 3 also evaluates and exhibition space and Features photographic Represents work by an The Nordic House Presenting Icelandic art dealer. Pieces are exhibits art. eclectic mix of Icelan- music and dance exhibitions by local Sturlugata 5 | C11 available for purchase photographers. Gallery Kling & Bang dic and international Tue–Sun 12–17 performances as well or lease. contemporary artists. as dramatic theatre, Gallery 100° Hverfisgata 42 | G7 www.nordice.is/ ASÍ Art Museum Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Living Art Museum Explores and promotes produces six new Bæjarháls 1 shows each year. Freyugata 41 | G10 www.or.is/Forsida/Gal- this.is/klingogbang/ Vatnsstígur 3 – G7 Scandinavian culture Tue–Sun 13–17 lery100/ Exhibits upcoming Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / with regular lectures, Reykjavík Maritime Run by the ASÍ labour Open weekdays from and established Thu 13–22. www.nylo.is films and exhibitions. Museum contemporary artists union, features mostly 08:30–16:00 A non-profit gallery The Numismatic Grandagarður 8 | C3 as well as hosting contemporary Icelan- An art museum run that organises 8–10 Museum With a fishing trawler- dic art. Free entry. screenings, lectures larger exhibitions every turned-exhibit space, by the Orkuveita Einholt 4 | K9 and performances. Árbæjarsafn Reykjavíkur energy year as well as other Open Mon–Fri educates on the Kistuhylur 4 corporation. Features Gallery Turpentine cultural events. 13:30–15:30. maritime and fishing An open-air museum contemporary art by Ingólfstræti 5 | F7 Lost Horse Gallery Presents a cultural his- traditions of Iceland. featuring arts-and- Icelandic and foreign Tue–Fri 12–18 / Sat Skólastræti 1 | F6 tory of Iceland through Reykjavík Museum crafts fairs and exhibi- artists. 11–16 Weekends from 13–19 analysis of collected of Photography tions in the summer. Gallery Auga fyrir www.turpentine.is and by appointment on coins, medals and Tryggvagata 16 | D5 Houses a collection of The Culture House Auga weekdays. books. Weekdays 12–19 / Icelandic contempo- Located in a renovated Sat–Sun 13–17 Hverfisgata 15 | F6 Hverfisgata 35 | G7 Reykjavík 871+/-2 rary artwork as well stable off Laugavegur, www.ljosmyndasafn- Open daily 11–17 Independently run Aðalstræti 17 | D6 as works from old www.thjodmenning.is art museum featuring features work by local Open daily 10–17 reykjavikur.is Icelandic masters both A Museum of Icelandic Icelandic art. artists. Museum on the Features work by for display and sale. local and international cultural history, with Gallery StartArt The National Film founding of Reykjavík. Gerðuberg Cultural photographers, as well an ongoing exhibition Laugavegur 12B | G7 Archive Located in the oldest of the original manu- Centre Hvaleyrarbraut 13 house in the city. Tours as an archive on the Tue–Sat 1–17 history of photography. scripts of the sagas www.startart.is Gerðuberg 3-5 www.kvikmyndasafn.is in English on Mondays and eddas. Contemporary Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed The National Film and Saturdays at 14.00 Sigurjón Ólafsson 11–21 / Thu–Fri 11–17 Dwarf Gallery Icelandic and foreign Archive of Iceland Reykjavík Art Gallery Museum / Sat–Sun 13–16 screens old movie Laugarnestangi 70 Grundarstígur 21 | H8 art. Admission is free Skúlagata 28 | H6 www.gerduberg.is Opening Hours: Fri and the gallery is run classics and master- Tuesday through Features a permanent Located in Breiðholt, and Sat 18–20 without any govern- pieces twice a week for Sunday 14–18 exhibition of sculptor the Gerðuberg cultural www.this.is/birta ment funding. 500 ISK per ticket. The city’s public art Sigurjón Ólafsson’s centre hosts both exhi- An independently gallery features works works. Gallery Ágúst bitions and events. run basement Gallery, Baldursgata 12 | F9 by Icelandic artists. B5 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008 Listings Event Isn´t it about time that we Gave Peace a Chance?

Last year, Yoko Ono visited Viðey Island 20-metre high beam of white light that Viðey Island from Reykjavik’s Skarfa- on November 9 to light the Imagine can be seen across Reykjavik with the bakki pier, which depart every day at Peace Tower, a project that started in hopes that it will remind us of her late 20:00. 2006 to commemorate John Lennon. husband and his vision of peace. She returned this year to relight the The light is projected from a white stone What: UPCOMING tower and rekindle the sprit for which it well carved with the words “imagine Imagine Peace Tower was created. peace” in twenty-four languages. The beacon of light will shine on Buried beneath the tree are hundreds Where & When: CONCERTS from Lennon´s birthday, October 9th, of thousand of written wishes from all Viðey Island until the anniversary of his death on over the world. Now until December 8 11.10.08 @ 2 pm | GYPSIES – A FAMILY CONCERT December 8th. The tower emits a The light can be reached by ferry to Conductor | Sebastian Tewinkel Soloist | Rachel Barton Pine Host | Barbara the Clown 16.10.08 @ 7.30 pm | SIBELIUS SYMPHONY CYCLE I Conductor | Petri Sakari Jean Sibelius | Violin Concerto Soloist | Sigrún Eðvaldsdóttir Symphony nr. 1 Symphony nr. 3 17.10.08 @ 7.30 pm | SIBELIUS SYMPHONY CYCLE II Conductor | Petri Sakari Jean Sibelius | Symphony nr. 2 Symphony nr. 4 18.10.08 @ 5 pm | SIBELIUS SYMPHONY CYCLE III Conductor | Petri Sakari Jean Sibelius | Symphony nr. 5 Symphony nr. 6 Symphony nr. 7 20/21.11 @ 7.30 PM YOUR FAVORITE BAROQUE* Conductor | Nicholas Kraemer Soloist | Dominique Labelle Georg Friedrich Händel | Gloria Georg Friedrich Händel | Lascia la spina Georg Friedrich Händel | Ti pentirai, crudel Georg Friedrich Händel | Water Music, suite nr. 2 Henry Purcell | Chacony Henry Purcell | Dances from King Artur Henry Purcell | Dido’s Lament Johann Sebastian Bach | Orchestral Suite nr. 3 Johann Pachelbel | Canon and Gigue *At Langholtskirkja Church

Tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is Stoðir is the main sponsor of or tel. 545 2500. the Iceland Symphony Orchestra All concerts take place in Háskólabíó.

10 COMMANDMENTS OF MENTAL HEALTH 1. Think positively; it's easier 2. Cherish the ones you love 3. Continue learning as long as you live 4. Learn from your mistakes 5. Exercise daily; it enhances your well-being 6. Do not complicate your life unnecessarily 7. Try to understand and encourage those around you 8. Do not give up; success in life is a marathon 9. Discover and nurture your talents 10. Set goals for yourself and pursue your dreams GUTENBERG 31215

Art EQUIVOCAL

If you have yet to see Equivocal, the taken part in. Like uninvited guests in a simple yet striking exhibit of Icelandic scenario that refuses to reveal whether photographer Katrín Elvarsdóttir latest it is fact or fiction. The fragments com- work, it’s not too late. The exhibit has bine in multiple ways and force upon us been given an extension and will be incomplete story lines of an ambiguous showing at Gallerí Ágúst until Novem- nature. Whether we like it or not.” ber 11. This the second time the show has been extended since Katrín was What: nominated for the prestigious 2009 Photo Exhibition Deutsche Börse Photographic Prize in Where: September. Gallerí Ágúst Katrín describes her work thusly: “We Baldursgötu 12 are inside looking out. We are outside When: looking in. A woman in a red coat, a Now – November 11 mobile home after midnight, yellow cur- tains – these are all clues in a fragment- ed narrative that raises questions rather 3 F9 than provides answers. In the photogra- phy series ‘Equivocal’ we witness enig- matic events that we inadvertently have Big helpings at lower prices B6 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008 Listings

Vegamót Glaumbar 23:00 DJ Siman. 23:00 DJ Valdi. Hressó 23:00 DJ Maggi. sundaY oct 26 Oliver 21:00 DJ Brynjar Már. B5 Q-Bar 21:00 Live band chillout. 23:00 Helloween with Haffi Haff, Prikið DJ Karius and Baktus. www.victor.is 22:00 Hangover Movie Night. Rósenberg Kaffibarinn 22:00 Krummafótur band. 23:00 DJ Alfons X. Solón 23:00 Party downstairs, upstairs dance. tuesdaY oct 28 Vegamót Hafnarstræti 1-3 23:00 DJ Simon. 101 Reykjavík Oliver tel: 561 9555 21:00 Live music. Q-Bar sundaY nov 2 23:00 Open Mic with Elin Ey and Myrra. B5 Rósenberg 23:00 DJ Leifur. 21:00 The Memphis Mafia. Rósenberg 22:00 Andrea Gylfa / Eddi Lor. wednesdaY oct 29 mondaY nov 3 Kaffitár Café ey survived a night at Paddy’s... 21:00 Tango Milonga. Rósenberg ...Can you? Prikið 22:00 Blues-Band Reykjavík. 22:00 Milk night with DJ Óli Q. Q-Bar 23:00 DJ Ási. tuesdaY nov 4 Rósenberg 21:00 Ferlegheit band. Rósenberg Solón 21:00 Blusakademia. 23:00 DJ Andres & 110. wednesdaY nov 5 thursdaY oct 30 Solón B5 23:00 DJ Andres & 110. 23:00 DJ Leifur. Café Cultura 23:00 DJ Einar Sonic. thursdaY nov 6 Glaumbar 23:00 Beat Box Multiphones. B5 Hressó 23:00 Party with DJ. 22:00 Troubadours Jogvan and Hressó Vignir. 22:00 Troubadours Jogvan and Oliver Vignír are playing live. 21:00 Live Music. Rósenberg Prikið 22:00 Múlinn Jazz Comany. Paddy’s Irish Pub ✳ Hafnargata 38, Reykjanesbær ✳ phone: 421-8900 ✳ www.myspace.com/paddysforever 22:00 Milk night with DJ Solón Moonshine. 22:00 Live music with various Q-Bar bands. 23:00 Sexual Chocolate. Rósenberg 21:00 Múlinn: Gröndal, Johnson fridaY nov 7 new menu every monday - good prices and more. Solón B5 but the traditional icelandic dishes 21:00 Troubadour on second floor. 23:00 Party with DJ meat soup and fish stew Vegamót Café Paris 23:00 DJ Simon. 23:30 Party with DJ. are always on the menu though Kaffibarinn 23:30 Jack Schidt. fridaY oct 31 opening hours: monday to thursday 11.30-15 & 17-01 fridays & saturdays 11.30-15 & 17-03 Apótek Art 23:00 Dance DJs. sundays 18-01 B5 101 Gallery 23:00 DJ Einar. Aug 22 – Oct 10 Café Cultura ZEÐRIK - Instalments by Sigga 23:00 Halloween Party with DJ Björg Sigurðardóttir Kiki Ow. Artótek Café Paris Sept 11 - Oct 19 23:00 DJ Andri Ramirez and Exhibition by Ólöf Björg Stjáni. ASÍ Art Museum RESTAURANT - BAR, LAUGAVEGUR 28b-2nd floor Glaumbar Sept 27- Oct 19 23:00 DJ Atli. Haraldur Jónsson – Myrkurlampi. tel. 517 7816 Hressó An Exhibition that is both “a state 22:00 The Believers (UK) followed of mind and an extension to ones by DJ Maggi. body”. Oliver The Culture House 21:00 DJ Brynjar Már. Permanent exhibitions: Prikið Medieval Manuscripts; 22:00 Coxbuster Party; Double The Library Room. Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, You save at the pink stations release concert: Bands Regnsko Current exhibitions: and sampling. Surtsey – Genesis Hveragerði, Reykjavík, Q-Bar The exhibition traces the 23:00 Sexual Chocolate. emergence and evolution of the Ísafjörður Akranes, Hafnarfjörður, Rósenberg island Surtsey until the present Súðavík 21:00 Krummafótur band. day and predicts its geographical Njarðvík, Sandgerði, Akureyri Solón and ecological development over Egilsstaðir 23:00 Party downstairs, upstairs the next 120 years. dance. From Beyond the Oceans – Kópavogur, Neskaupstaður, Neskaupstaður Stykkishólmur Vegamót Translations and original writings Grundarfjörður 23:00 DJ Simon. by Helgi Hálfdanarson Grundarfjörður, Hreðavatnsskáli The thematic exhibition currently Akranes Hveragerði on view in the Library Room is Stykkishólmur, Súðavík, Reykjavík Sandgerði Selfoss saturdaY nov 1 dedicated to Helgi Hálfdanarson’s Njarðvík Ísafjörður, Vík í Mýrdal Hafnarfjörður translations and original writings. Apótek The Late View – Halldór Laxness’ Photographs and Hreðavatnsskáli have Vík 23:00 Dance DJs. B5 Nobel Laureate and cosmopolitan more than just stunning The Orkan network is growing steadily, offering more savings 23:00 DJ Dance. Halldór Laxness was better known throughout Iceland. Keep an eye out for the Orkan petrol stations and Babalú for his writing but also proved to nature and beautiful take advantage of our lower prices. 21:00 Helloween Party with be a good photographer. This is costumes and food. an exhibition of his works. people in common! Café Paris Exhibition Series www.orkan.is 23:00 DJ Andri Ramirez and Ásta Ólafsdóttir displays her

DYNAMO REYKJAVIK Stjáni. artwork at the Culture Shop. B7 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008 Listings

Dwarf Gallery mentally ill women do not have museum’s collection along Oct 3 - Oct 6 to veil their hair are examples with works on loan from the Art This is a Circle: An exhibition by of her keen eye for curiosities Labour Unions’ Art Gallery and Natalija Ribovic & Toru Fujita in concerning reigning political from the collection of Ingibjörg The bank of joy memory of Úlfur Chaka Karlsson system, which she reproaches for Guðmundsdóttir and Þorvaldur The Einar Jónsson Museum its ambiguous position in terms of Guðmundsson. The summer of 2008 was a rush for doesn’t know what to expect. But if you Permanent exhibition: sexual discrimination. 13 Sept – 16 Nov many, but it would probably appear as want to find out if the rumblings about The work of sculptor Einar Oct 11 - Dec 2 Visual Symphony – The Art of a rather dull season compared to the the crazy summer nightlife in Iceland Jónsson. Love at First Sight: Modern and Bragi Ásgeirsson for 60 Years lunacy that photographer Jói Kjartans are factual, check out the, probably, Fótógrafí temporary art from the Würth Reykjavík Maritime Museum experienced this summer. He has dili- hazy but untamed exhibition called A new exhibition opens collection Current Exhibitions: gently captured his series of fortunate “The Bank of Joy”. monthly with works of various The private collection of the Living Museum by the Sea; photographers German industrialist Reinhold Arterial for Country and City; razzles on film and the whole collection Gallery 100° Würth has grown enormously From Poverty to Abundance; The will be on show on October 25 and 26 What: Oct - Nov during the last decades. It is Shark – Light and Life Energy; in Kolaportið, Reykjavík’s flea market. Photo Exhibition Leonardo Da Vinci. An exhibition now considered one of the Hidden Craftsman. At the time of print, none of the photos When: of Da Vinci’s drawings and largest private collections in Reykjavík Museum intended for the exhibition had been October 25-26 4 E5 machines. Europe in terms of modern and (Árbæjarsafn) developed due to financial difficul- Where: contemporary art. The exhibition Current exhibitions: Gallery Ágústr ties, so even the photographer himself Kolaportið Flea Market Oct 4 - Nov 1 displays the recent acquisitions Building Techniques in Reykjavík Exhibition: IN VISIBLE INK from this important private 1840-1940; Disco and Punk – Gallery Fold collections, where Impressionist Different cultures?; Christmas is Current exhibition: Gallery Fold’s works to contemporary German Coming; History of Reykjavík – summer exhibition. Paintings and international art will be on from farm to city; Memories of a by Ásgrímur Jónsson, Jón display. House; Living and Playing Stefánsson, Jóhannes S. Kjarval, The National Museum The Reykjavík Museum of Finnur Jónsson, Þorvaldur Permanent exhibition: Photography Skúlason, Jóhann Briem and Nína The Making of a Nation Sept 13 - Nov 23 Tryggvadótti June 6 – Jan 21 Home/Away Photography Gallery Kling & Bang Over the Ocean and Home: Exhibition: An exhibition Oct 4 – Oct 24 Icelandic artefacts from Sweden. documenting over 50 years Sequences / Trommusólo / Drum Sept 27 - Nov 30 of asylum seekers in Iceland, solo Trommusólo / Drumsolo The Nation, the Country and charting back to 1956. Gallery StartArt the Republic: Exhibition of the Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Sept 25 – Oct 29 works of photographer Vigfús Permanent exhibition: Six exhibitions by Ragnhildur Sigurgeirsson, both photos and Works of sculptor Sigurjón Stefánsdóttir, Kristín Reynisdóttir, videos from between 1928 and Ólafsson. Björn Birnir, Björn Valdimarsson, 1958. Gréta S. Guðjónsdóttir, Kristveig Sept 28 - Oct 12 OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK Halldórsdóttir, Ása Ólafsdóttir and Prjónaheimur Lúka: Twin sisters Þórdís Alda Sigurðardóttir Gunnhildur and Brynhildur exhibit For more information about art Gallery Turpentine a collection of hand knitted outside Reykjavík visit grapevine.is Now - Nov 4 design clothing. Helgi Þorgils Fridjonsson The Numismatic Museum Gerðasafn Permanent exhibition: Oct 4 - Nov 16 The Central Bank of Iceland and Ecuadorian Cultural Festival the National Museum of Iceland Gerðuberg Cultural Centre jointly operate a numismatic Sept 12 – Nov 2 collection consisting of Icelandic Mola. An exhibition of knitting art notes and coins. by Colombian Indian tribe Cuna. Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Sept 21 – Nov 2 Permanent exhibition: Video Art exhibition. The Settlement Exhibition Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum Reykjavík Art Gallery Gljúfrasteinn was the home and Current exhibition: workplace of Halldór Laxness Magnús Tómasson, Pétur Már (winner of the Nobel Prize for Pétursson and Tolli Listasafn Reykjavíkur Literature in 1955) and his family Reykjavík Art Museum for more than half a century. It – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Reykjavik Art Museum has now been opened to the Museum public as a museum, unchanged Permanent Exhibition from when Laxness lived there. The Shape of Line i8 Gallery A new retrospective of works Sept 12 - Oct 26 by Ásmundur Sveinsson. The Pleinairism: An exhibition of exhibition focuses on abstract works by; Francis Alys, AA works from 1945 onwards. Bronson, Paul Chan, Tacita Dean Reykjavík Art Museum and many many more. – Hafnarhús Living Art Museum Sept 18 – Nov 2 Aug 16 – Sept 29 Everybody is Doing What They Tillit – rúcksicht – regards Can: Exhibition by Hlynur Hallson Libia Castro and Ólafur Ólafsson. Sept 9 - Oct 18 The two artists have worked Grassroot 2008-Björk together since the late 1990s, Viggósdóttir-Guðmundur Vignir building up a strong body of Hafnarhús Karlsson-Halldór Ragnarsson- work which focuses on social Jeanette Castroni-Jóna Hlíf issues and the sharing of life Ingibjörg Jónsdóttir Halldórsdóttir experiences. Their work has a Kjarvalsstaðir Parallel Universes Oct 11 - Oct 22 strong political core and gives Bragi Ásgeirsson 18 September 2008 – 11 January 2009 Bj Nielsen-Darri Lorenzen- voice to people on the margins of Visual Symphony Finnbogi Pétursson-Ingólfur our society, migrants and asylum 13 September – 16 November Arnrasson-Mika Vanio-Bjorn seekers. Quiring Sept 18 – Jan 11 The National Film Archive of Parallel Universes Iceland A private Exhibition by Ingibjörg Reykjavik Art Museum The National Film Archive of Jónsdóttir Iceland screens old movie Sept 27 - Jan 11 classics and masterpieces twice a Imaginary Friends: week for 500 ISK per ticket. Exhibition by Hrafnhildur The National Gallery of Iceland Arnardóttir July 10 – Sept 28 Reykjavík Art Museum Exhibition: Highlight of Icelandic – Kjarvalsstaðir Art 18 May – 31 Aug At the annual summer exhibition Dreams of the Sublime and at the National Gallery of Nowhere in Contemporary Iceland the emphasis is on Icelandic Art: different periods in modern and This exhibition includes many contemporary Icelandic art. Each new works of photography part of the exhibition focuses on a and video art by Iceland’s most Hafnarhús certain period in the short history outstanding artists, building on Ólafur Ólafsson & Libia Castro their disparate ideas about nature of Icelandic art since it was first Everybody is Doing What They Can Ásmundarsafn recognised as a profession, and as a phenomenon. 18 September - 2 November Water Carrier various aspects of development in 18 May – 31 Aug art are explored in light Where Am I?: An exhibition in 22 August – 31 December of social change- Ongoing which children and adults can Watercolours by eleven artists Sept 25 - Oct 5 contemplate their planet, their An Exhibition by Iranian artist country, and the landmarks of Hafnarhús Kjarvalsstaðir Ásmundur Sveinsson Free admission. Shirin Neshat who has for their environment. Tryggvagata 17 daily 10–17 Flókagata, daily 10–17 Sculpture Museum, decades been in the forefront of 18 May – 31 Dec Thursdays to 22 Sigtún, 1.5.–30.9. daily 10–16 artists who use video to express Jóhannes S. Kjarval – Key 1.10.–30.4. daily 13–16 her particular criticism of Iranian Works: The current exhibition society. The prohibition of women in Kjarvalsstaðir’s east gallery singing publically, or the fact that features key works from the www.artmuseum.is [email protected] T +354 590 1200 F +354 590 1201 Useful Numbers A B C D E F Emergency number: 112 Police: 444 1000 Medical help: 1770 Dental emergency: 575 0505 AA: 551 2010 1 Information: 118 Telegrams: 146 Tax Free Refund Iceland Refund, Fiskislóð A›alstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 www.is.eurorefund.com 2 Opening Hours Grandagarður Bars and clubs: According to regula- tions bars may be open until 01:00 on weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun closed. The shopping centres Kringlan The Old Harbour and Smáralind as well as most super- 3 markets and tourist shops have longer Ánanaust opening hours. Mýrargata Swimming pools: weekdays 06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00- Nýlendugata 20:30 although some may be open an hour longer. 4 amnesvegur The State owned ÁTVR liquor stores: Fr Ránargata Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat 11-18. Vesturgata Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Bárugata Geirsgata 09-16. Tourist Information Öldugata Bræðraborgarstígur Icelandic Travel Market Ægisgata Tryggvagata Bankastræti 2, Tel: 522 4979, 5 2 4 Tourist Information Centre A›alstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Garðastræti Túngata Hafnarstræti Skúlagata Sæbraut www.visitreykjavik.is Austurstræti Both tourist infos offer information for Lindargata tourists as well as providing internet access, booking service, a phone centre, Bankastræti Sæbraut money exchange service, tax refund and 6 Hverfisgata selling the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Hofsvallagata Sólvallagata Reykjavík Tourist Card gives admission Lækjargata to city busses, various museums, Reyk- Klapparstígur javík swimming pools, The Family Park Laugavegur tnsstígur Hringbraut and Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House Va ún Ingólfsstræti Borgart and the National and University Library. Þingholtsstræti Suðurgata ðarstræti Hverfisgata arnargata Skólavörðustígur Getting Around 7 Tj Public Transport Bergsta The only public transport system in City Pond Laufásvegur Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run ev- 1 Skúlagata La ery 20 minutes and price per fare is 280 Frakkastígur ugavegur Nóatún Fríkirkjuvegur ISK for adults and 100 ISK for children. Óðinsgata stígurGrettisgata Complete route map at: www.bus.is. Tel: ta 540 2700 Vi 8 Njálsgata Hátún Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends Snorrabraut Birkimelur Bergþórugata Barónsstígur Taxi Baldursgata Laugavegur Hreyfill-Bæjarlei›ir, Sóleyjargata 3 Brautarholt Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Bragagata BSR, Tel: 561 0000 Njarðargata

9 uðarárstígur For disabled travellers: Skipholt Reykjavík Group Travel Service, Ra Skipholt Brunasta›ir 3, Tel: 587 8030, Bergstaðarstræti Eiríksgata www.randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ Hljómskáli Barónsstígur travel_service/ Suðurgata Hringbraut Park Nóatún Airlines Laufásvegur Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, 10 Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Háteigsvegur Snorrabraut Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, www.eyjaflug.is Gunnarsbraut Bus Terminal Flókagata Vatnsmýrarvegur BSÍ, Vatnsm‡rarvegur 10,

Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Gamla Hringbraut uðarárstígur Flybus 11 Ra Busses run daily from the BSÍ Bus Terminal to Keflavík International Njarðargata Miklatún Airport in connection with all departing flights. Departures daily from 04:45 to Bus terminal Hringbraut

15:00/16:30 (every 15 - 60 minutes). For ngahlíð Bólstaðarhlíð Flybus time schedule see: La Miklabraut L]Vi»h[dg www.flybus.is 12 Samferda.net inglumýrarbraut Y^ccZgidc^\]i4 A reasonable choice for the budget Kr traveller. You log on to the website www. samferda.net, choose your destination and hopefully find a travel buddy to share the cost. 13 Domestic Airport AVj\VkZ\jg**WqIZa (*)**&&*&& DeZc&&/%%"''/%% G H I J K L M N

Reykjavík What’s this Ask for a Tax Free Center thing? 1 form & save up to 15% Fiskislóð City Map These things are pretty useful, check it out: Every venue that’s mentioned in our Grandagarður info section gets a little marker like this, which will help you locate it on our map. Say you want to try out “Lystin” after reading our review - no problem, sir, just look up the corresponding icon on the The Old Harbour map!

Ánanaust Mýrargata

Nýlendugata

amnesvegur Fr Ránargata Vesturgata Bárugata Geirsgata

Öldugata

Bræðraborgarstígur Ægisgata Tryggvagata

Garðastræti Túngata Hafnarstræti Skúlagata Sæbraut Austurstræti Lindargata

Bankastræti Sæbraut Hverfisgata Hofsvallagata Sólvallagata

Lækjargata Klapparstígur Laugavegur tnsstígur Hringbraut Va ún Ingólfsstræti Borgart Þingholtsstræti Suðurgata ðarstræti Hverfisgata arnargata Skólavörðustígur Tj

Bergsta

City Pond Laufásvegur Skúlagata XXXGBSNFSTNBSLFUJT La Frakkastígur ugavegur Nóatún Fríkirkjuvegur Óðinsgata stígurGrettisgata ta Vi Njálsgata Hátún

Snorrabraut Birkimelur Bergþórugata Barónsstígur Baldursgata Laugavegur Sóleyjargata Brautarholt

Bragagata Njarðargata

uðarárstígur Skipholt Ra Skipholt Bergstaðarstræti Eiríksgata Barónsstígur Suðurgata Hringbraut Hljómskáli Park Nóatún Laufásvegur

Háteigsvegur Snorrabraut

Gunnarsbraut

Flókagata Vatnsmýrarvegur

Gamla Hringbraut uðarárstígur

Ra

Njarðargata Miklatún Bus terminal Hringbraut

ngahlíð

La Bólstaðarhlíð Miklabraut

inglumýrarbraut

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Domestic Airport

THE ORIGINAL TASTE

INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE AUSTURSTRÆTI - 4 Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is B10 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008 Eating

Food segurmo

Reviewed by Desiree Andrews — Photo by GAS

Boston has been known as a staple of slices, roasted pine nuts and parmesan. Where: Reykjavik nightlife. The bar is kept busy My favourite selection of the evening Boston, on most nights as people pile in from the was a piece of fresh fish on a bed of roast- Laugavegur 28 cold. And while the atmosphere is cosy ed winter vegetables accented with a date 101 Reykjavík and mellow during the early hours of the and parsley-coriander salsa. In this dish, evening making it perfect for dinning, sweet flavours of caramelized onions and 6 H8 this place has been known more as a bar dates mixed with the potent roasted garlic than a restaurant. But all that is about to and coriander to heighten the taste of the How much: change with the opening of Segurmo, fish. Every ingredient worked together so 1000-1500 ISK chef Númi Thomasson’s newest endea- well it was as if they had never been sep- vour, The menu offers five dishes and, arate—a flawless entrée. The final meal What we think: with the exception of the first two start- was a foal steak with couscous, green This comfort food will make ers, it changes weekly. The first starter cabbage and light coconut sauce. Again you feel like you’re back at is plokkfiskur, a traditional Icelandic the accompaniments were thoughtfully grandma’s kitchen table fish stew. Its hearty texture and mild yet and expertly chosen to highlight the pleasant taste of potatoes and fish makes delicate favour of the meat. There is a re- for the ideal winter food. spect that goes into cooking dishes that The second starter, kjötsúpa, another Ice- are this simple. The chef seems to know landic favourite, was a straightforward that if something is cooked well it will be meat soup prepared with the perfect good without a smattering of spices that combination of winter tubers and topped can disguise the natural flavour. Instead, off with green onions that added just he chooses the highest quality of ingre- enough spice. The menu continued its dients to begin with and lets the food do seasonal theme with a mushroom filled the work for him. with quinoa served with warm beat root

we bring the o to sush

Osushi Lækjargata 2a Og Borgartún 29 I Sími : 561 0562

Food & Drink | Venue finder

3 Frakkar gars make an excellent the best hot dog stand both in age and origin, parstígur. Offers an named sandwiches Baldursgata 14 | F9 choice in fine dining. in Europe. Don’t be a rule that extends to ever-changing menu with equally imagina- A seriously Icelandic Austurlanda- intimidated by the the musicians that play of specials and soup tive contents. Good for atmosphere and tradi- hraðlestin perpetual line in front there. du jours, alongside a an adventurous bite. tional Icelandic dishes Hverfisgata 64A | H7 – an absolute must and Domo basic menu Hornið prepared in the good Though a bit expensive worth the wait. Þingholtsstræti 5 | F7 Grái Kötturinn Hafnarstræti 15 | E6 old-fashioned way. for take-away, it is well Café Cultura The elegantly deco- Hverfisgata 16A | G7 Since 1979, this Italian RSVP and keep your worth it for a spicy bite Hverfisgata 18 | G6 rated Domo serves Legendary for its early restaurant has been ears pricked for wild of this Indian cuisine. Cultura is a café/bar delicious French-Asian opening ours, the Gray a longtime Reykjavík whaling tales! A few tables to the with a party feel. The cuisine, excellent sushi Cat serves amazing staple. Famous for its Af lífi og sál side for those who menu features all sorts and has a great wine breakfasts and coffee pizza and stuffed cal- Restaurant choose to dine in. of international dishes, list. A sure choice. that packs a wallop. A zones, it proudly offers Laugavegi 55b | 7H Á Næstu Grösum alongside the staple Eldsmiðjan splendid way to start an affordable menu of A high street backyard Laugavegur 20B | G7 salad and sandwich. Bragagata 38A | G9 you off on your day. high-quality dishes restaurant where the Regarded by many to Café Loki Totally satisfying Grillhúsið Hótel Holt menu changes every be the best vegetarian Lokastígur 28 | G9 oven-baked pizza Tryggvagata 20 | Bergstaðarstræti 37 night, so who knows place in town, “First With a splendid view with a wide choice of E5/E6 | F7 what´s for dinner? But Vegetarian” offers of Hallgrímskirkja, Café toppings–snails an With a menu of rea- Housing Iceland´s serving such dishes as a healthy and tasty Loki is the perfect unusual specialty. Well sonably priced home- most renowned res- grilled dolphin, bac- menu of vegetarian place to take a load worth the cost. Order, style food, Grillhúsið taurant, The Gallery, an calao and kangaroo, and vegan dishes. In- off your feet and enjoy take away or eat has satiated hungry evening here is an un- you can´t go wrong by dian theme on Fridays some solid homemade comfortably among the regulars since 1994 forgettable experience. dropping by for lunch a hit. Icelandic food. paintings. with juicy burgers, Delicious French- or dinner. B5 Café Paris Fiskmarkaðurinn sandwiches, steaks inspired cuisine and Aktu Taktu Bankastræti 5 | F6 Austurstræti 14 | E6 Aðalstræti 12 | D6 and fish dishes. fine wines await. Skúlugata 15 | K8 By day a chic little With an outdoor ter- Run and co-owned by Habibi Humarshúsið This drive-in destina- bistro with good food race, this café gets the national team of Hafnarstræti 20 | D5 Ammtmanstígur 1 tion in 101 Reykjavík and a prime loca- busy on sunny days. chefs, this establish- A reliable source of | E7 is busy day and night tion for Laugavegur With a cosy interior, ment specializing in high quality shawarma One of the oldest res- and the burgers are people watching–by fine menu and atten- Japanese cuisine has and falafel. Important taurants in the country, especially tasty. The night a stylish bar tive service, it makes a everything planned to ingredient for success- the lobster house is caramel shakes are a with a “whiskey room” fine spot for evening the last detail, ensur- ful living. known of course for local favorite. and Manhattanesque dining as well. ing a relaxing evening. Hamborgarabúlla its lobster and also American Style clientele. Café Roma Geysir Bar/Bistro Tómasar (“Bullan”) its impressive cognac Tryggvagata 26 | E5 Babalú Rauðarárstígur 8 | J9 Aðalstræti 2 | D6 Geirsgata 1 | D5 lounge. Fine intimate With a soft bun and Skólavörðustígur 22A Roma, an Italian deli Situated in the digni- Considered by some dining. lots of veggies, you | G8 and café, offers a va- fied Geysir Building at to be the best real Hressó can settle into a booth It’s tough to miss café riety of breads, soups the corner of Vestur- hamburger in Reyk- Austurstræti 20 | E6 and eat for hours. Big Babalú walking up as well as tempting gata and Aðalstræti, javík, “Bullan” does With a spacious portions for authentic Skólavörðustigur. A desserts. For a good this stylish bistro is serve some mysteri- neutral interior and American dining. cozy place for coffee bargain, come at always a good place to ously delicious burgers, a varied lunch menu, Argentína Steak- and cake, the well- lunchtime for the grab a tasty bite for a guaranteed to take the Hressó attracts no house worn, homey ambience specials. reasonable price. edge off any hangover. specific type of crowd. Barónstígur | I8 makes it difficult to Café Victor Garðurinn Hlölla Bátar Tap beer and music leave. makes a fair hangout True to its name with Hafnarstræti 1-3 | Klappastigur 37 | G7 Ingólfstorg | D6 tender steaks and Bæjarins Beztu D6/E6 “Ecstasy’s Heart” is The first sub sandwich on weekends. flamingly vibrant South Tryggvagata | E6 A hangout for older a simple, friendly, shop in Iceland, Hlölla Icelandic American décor. Gen- The oldest fast-food in foreigners, Victor at- family-run vegetarian Bátar has a large Fish & Chips erous portions, fine Iceland, it is feasibly tracts a diverse crowd, restaurant on Klap- selection of creatively Tryggvagata 8 | E5 wine, liqueurs and ci- B11 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008 Eating

Food Thorvaldsen

Reviewed by Marcus Walsh — Photo by GAS

Thorvaldsen has divided its new menu was not able to order a vegetarian dish Where: up into the four points of the compass, from any of the four regions, meaning a Austurstræti 8 which in theory is a nice idea but in real- choice of the ‘Middle Eastern Salad’ with- 101 Reykjavik ity turned out to be a shocker. The north out the meat. They could have used avo- Tel: 511 1413 section includes a Nordic perspective, cado or cheese as a replacement at least including my smoked salmon starter. for some texture, but instead the main 7 H8 This was such a huge portion; it was was just like a huge bowl of side salad. the size of a main dish. It was satisfying Incredible. For dessert we both ordered How much: though and the mustard vinaigrette was American Apple Pie with Ice Cream. 1000-1500 ISK a decent touch. Then from the east was The cinnamon was barely traceable and my guest’s appetizer of Indian Curry they didn’t even peel the fruit leaving What we think: Soup which was medium to spicy and a apple skin that got stuck between the Fake style and no substance bit too heavy on the turmeric. With a lit- teeth. To make matters worse, the Red in a shocker of a meal tle more saffron it would have been less Delicious variety of apples were simply bitter. The heavy inclusion of rice meant not suitable for the dish, especially when too many carbohydrates to start a three they’re not baked through properly. course meal with. Thorvaldsen has a plush décor and at The main bellyache though came first sight seems a cosy venue. Beyond “They put on such a with the main course. From the western the surface, however, our table rocked a beautiful meal for us. region I ordered an Alabama Burger. The little and wasn’t clean in the first place. We had the most bacon was singed and the burger tasted The music was way too loud and the 50 amazing freshest fish I've like it contained barely any pure beef. Cent tracks didn’t help matters an awful ever had in my life. The thickly cut chips lacked any real bite lot. We wouldn’t have wanted to listen It was all so perfectly as if they had been deep fried in oil that to his shit at the best of times, let alone cooked too...Beautiful!” had been reused many times. My guest while we were eating. Jamie Oliver’s Diary

by the sea and a delicios lobster at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri

Not your average all sorts of tough folks. renowned for its Santa Maria Sushibarinn pleasant establishment. fish’n’chips joint, but If you want traditional greasy sandwiches Laugavegur 22A, | F7 Laugavegur 2 | F7 Tívolí a healthy restaurant Icelandic food, a great and its unique Nonni- Authentic Mexican Deceptively ordinary Laugavegur 3 | F7 using only organic place to see another sauce. Open late for a food, directly from the Sushibarinn has re- A stylish bistro with a vegetables and qual- side of Reykjavík. midnight cravings. stove of the owner’s cently become the talk wide variety of selec- ity fish products. The Kebabhúsið O Sushi mother, who is an of the town among tions and positively spiced skyr side a Austurstræti 2 | E6 Lækjargata 2A | E6 authentic Mexican. Reykjavík sushi lovers, charming atmosphere. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir special treat. The name says it all, Also called “The Served with a healthy serving, in our opinion, distaste for anything the very best rolls Tjarnarbakkinn Indian Mango really. Train”, O Sushi’s most Vonarstræti 3 | D7 Frakkarstígur 12 | H8 intriguing feature is texmex. Also the best in city. Kofi Tómasar quality/price ratio in Right above the Iöno Specializing in deli- Frændu a conveyor belt that Svarta Kaffi theater, an ideal place cious dishes from the runs around the entire town with every dish Laugavegur 54 | H8 Laugavegur 2 | F7 under 1000 ISK. to go before shows. Goa region of India, Nestled in a basement restaurant delivering A cosy second floor Nice views of the pond honed to perfection in location, Uncle Tom´s a buffet of authentic Segafredo café, their fame lies and outdoor dining in the owner’s period as Cabin has the feeling sushi straight to your Lækjatorg | E6 partly in their tasty the summertime. The head chef at the Four of a back-alley London table. The Italian coffee chain Súpa í Brauði (Soup lamb comes especially Seasons. Incredible Café. On weekends it Pizza King makes its way to Læk- in Bread) and also in recommended. service as well as food. becomes a happening Hafnarstræti 18 | E6 jatorg Square, bringing their romantic atmo- strong espresso and sphere. Good for a few Vegamót Jómfrúin and diverse bar. This little place serves Vegamótastígur 4 Lækjargata 4 | E6 not only the cheap- Italian lunch snacks early evening drinks. Krua Thai to grab on the way to | G7 These days, good Tryggvagata 14 | D5 est but largest slices Sægreifinn Vegamót´s kitchen is Smörrebröd can be an downtown. A local fa- work or just to enjoy Verbuð 8, Geirsgata We dare you to find on the spot. open until 22.00 daily elusive delicacy. Lucky a better meal for the vorite, and open until 6 | D5 and sports an appeal- for us out in the colo- same price anywhere on Friday and Saturday Shalimar Right next to the ing lunch menu. Come The Forget-Me-Not Burger – Simply Magical! nies, it’s alive and well else. Every dish is nights. Austurstræti 4 | E6 harbor, Sægrefinn fish for a tasty brunch on at Jómfrúin with fresh delicious. Just eat what Pizza Pronto Shalimar sports the shop is like none other weekends. If you like eel imported specially looks best to you on Vallarstræti 4 | D6 conceit of being the in the country. With a Óliver, try Vegamót from Denmark. their colorful menu. With a convenient northernmost Indian diverse fish selection, and vice versa. restaurant in the world exquisite lobster soup Kaffi Hljómalind La Primavera location and late hours, Við Tjörnina Laugavegur 21 | G7 a good place to snack and has fine daily spe- and good service, an Austurstræti 9 | E6 cials. We recommend absolute must-try. Templarasund 3 | E7 This organic, free-trade Though it sounds in between bars. Three A Reykjavík classic café prides itself not sizes of pizza with the quite addictive Tapas strange, La Primavera chicken tikka masala. with menu exclusively only on great lunches serves delicious tra- a good selection of Vesturgata 3B | D5 of traditional cuisine, and food but being a ditional North Italian toppings. A cheap, if Sjávarkjallarinn For those with a bit as frequented by tour- strong cultural center, cuisine using only local unhealthy, choice. Aðalstræti 2 | D6 of money and time to ists as it is by locals. A hosting live music as produce. A startlingly Prikið Elegant Seafood Cellar spare, Tapas serves perfect opportunity to well as lectures and tasty combination and Bankastræti 12 | F6 focuses on gourmet course after course of try Icelandic delicacies. poetry nights. a local favorite. Part of the Reykjavík seafood and tantaliz- delightful miniature ing asian-fusion dishes. dishes. Also serves Vitabar Kaffitár Mokka bar scene for decades, Bergþórugata 21 | H9 Bankastræti 8 | F6 this café/bar has a Share the exotic menu, tasty and unusually af- Skólavörðustígur 3A courses selected by fordable lobster. Really a bar, but best Kaffitár celebrates | F7 fairly cheap menu and known for its ham- good coffee, and attracts a mix of stu- the chef, with a friend Thorvaldsen Operating since 1958, for the most fun. burgers. Burger and serves it in abundance, Mokka is the city dents and old regulars. Austurstræti 8 | E6 fries for 500 one of along with sweet center´s oldest cof- Mostly R&B and Hip- Sólon Dress formally for this the best deals in town, treats and tasty if pricy fee joint and founder Hop on weekends. Bankastræti 7a | F6 fancy spot, and come but Forget-Me-Not special blends. Eat in of Icelandic coffee Raðhúskaffi | D7 Truly a jack-of-all before 12 to avoid a blue cheese and Garlic or to go, a great way culture. Regular art Tjarnargata 11 trades establishment. long line. DJs play Extravaganza are alse to enjoy your morning exhibits are always Located in the City By night a decent res- Thursdays, Fridays and winners. boost. worth a look. Hall with a great view taurant, by day a café/ Saturdays. bistro and on Friday Kaffivagninn Nonnabiti of the pond, this café Tíu Dropar Grandagarður 10 has a good selection and Saturday nights a Laugavegur 27 | G7 Hafnarstræti 9 | E6 nightclub. Art exhibi- | D1 “Nonni” is one of the of pastries and a good An old-fashioned café By the harbor, this place to relax. Regular tions on the walls to with warm atmosphere more popular junk- top it off. lunch and coffee place food places in town, art exhibits add to the and generous coffee Bergþórugata 21 – 101 Reykjavík – Tel.: 5517200 is a gathering place for aesthetic. refills. A thoroughly B12 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008 Shopping SHOPPING Stylist: Erna Bergmann − Hair & Makeup: Elísabet Alma − Models: Eva & Geiri − Photographer: GAS

She wears: Feather collar: Kalda - Einvera Leather dress: Thelon - Trílógía Necklace: Florian - Kronkron Socks: Eley Hishimoto - Kronkron Shoes: Sonia Rykiel - Kronkron Dog bag: Hildur Yeoman - Kronkron

He wears: T-Shirt: Raf Simmons - Belleville Jeans: G-star Raw - G-star Shoes: Raf Simmons - Belleville

Props: Toy: Medicom toys - Belleville Rug: Pinocchio from Hay - Epal Disco bowl: Stylist’s own

Shopping | Venue finder

12 Tónar streetwear designs as you can even book an antique furniture and A flashy vintage cloth- Lækjargata 2A | E6 items of any kind. the colourfully printed Second-hand clothing store to satisfy them. Skólavörðust. 15 | G8 well as funky maga- excursion on the spot. vintage accoutrements ing shop with every- A great source for all Kronkron designer products. for the fairer sex at a Trilogia zines and media. to perk up your apart- thing from necklaces to reasonable price. A record label as well Dead kinds of reading mate- Laugavegi 63B | I8 Mál og Menning Laugavegur 7 | F7 ment. fur coats to kimonos. as a store, all the best Blue Lagoon Store Laugavegur 29 | G7 rial, with restaurants on This hip new shop Laugavegur 18 | G7 Skarthúsið A collection of trendy new Icelandic music on Laugavegur 15 | G7 Artist Jón Sæmun- G-Star Raw Green Apple the second floor. stocks the latest trends A multi-level store with Laugavegur 12 | F7 designer wear fills CDs or live on Fridays All the natural skincare dur Auðarson’s own Laugavegur 86 | I8 Laugavegur 20 | G7 Kisan in everything from games, books, souve- Glittery accessory shop the shop, summery at 5 PM. products from the hand-printed Rock and A store for the Dutch The tiny shop Laugavegur 7 | F7 socks to sweaters. nirs and a bustling café stuffed with cheap dresses, sweaters and 66°¨North famous geothermal spa Roll label, Dead, plus jeans brand, an edgy combines massage An interesting mix of KVK on the top floor. jewellery, bags or other skirts. at their outlet here. others. collection with innova- and other relaxation small items. Bankastræti 5 | F6 items from all around Laugavegur 27 | G7 Nakti Apinn The Viking tive details and washes. products with organic High quality Icelandic Brim Dogma the world you won’t Small yet stuffed Bankastræti 14 | F7 Skífan Hafnarstræti 3 | E5 products. outdoors clothing, Laugurvegur 71 | H7 Laugavegur 32 | H7 Galleri Sautján find anywhere else. designer shop KVK, Offers an amazing Laugavegur 26 | G7 This large tourist shop designed for life at 66° Big surf wear, skate Dogma offers street Laugavegur 91 | I8 Gyllti Kötturinn Kisuberjatréð which stocks a nice array of colourful de- Selection of CDs, DVDs sells all sorts of smart North wear, and snowboard clothing with interest- Stocking many hip Austurstræti 8 | E6 Vesturgata 4 | D5 selection of local signer wear as well as and computer games souvenirs to bring back Aftur shop. ing prints. Hooded labels, a unisex store One of a few second A lovely gallery/gift designs. contemporary media. as well as some Icelan- home. Laugavegur 23 | G7 Börn Náttúrunnar sweaters and T-shirts offering casual busi- hand shops that have shop run by ten artists Liborius Nexus dic films with English Þorsteinn Bergmann made by both Icelandic ness wear to evening popped up in recent subtitles. Aftur’s internation- Skólavörðustígur 17a and designers where Laugavegur 7 | F7 Hverfisgata 103 | I8 Skólavörðustígur 36 and foreign designers dress wear. year, Gyllti Kötturinn ally acclaimed label is | G8 they sell their products. One of a kind, very The biggest comic Spúútnik | G8 can be found. also offers some pieces proudly displayed here The basement Gilbert Kolaportið high-end shop featur- book and gaming store Laugavegur 32 | G7 Since the 1940s this by locals. in their shop/studio. children’s toy store Fígúra Laugavegur 62 | H8 Tryggvagata 19 | E5 ing the latest, crispest in Reykjavík has some- One of the best small store has offered Álafoss sells clothes and toys Skólavörðustígur | G8 Watchmaker Gilbert Handprjóna- Open on weekends, designs for both sexes. thing for everyone. second-hand shops a huge selections of Laugavegur 1 | F7 only made of organic This shop features Guðjónsson has sold sambandið you can get a bargain Marimekko Noland in the country, with household supplies for products as well as Icelandic designer watches and clocks on Sklólavörðustígur 19A recycled clothes at a a laughable low price. The downtown outlet on almost anything at Laugavegur 56 | H8 Laugavegur 32 | H7 for famous makers of books about childcare wear, everything from Laugavegur for over 40 | G7 this indoor flea market. Finnish designer brand A new skate shop range of prices. Anatomie and parenthood. street clothes to party years. Recently, Gilbert All sorts of hand knit traditional Icelandic Kraum Marimekko has found offering fresh tees and Systur Skólavörðustígur | G8 dresses. designed his own line woollen clothing as woolens. Cintamani Aðalstræti 10 | D6 its spot on Laugav- sneakers from Krew, Laugavegur 70 | H7 A great little shop with of wristwatches. well as fine yarns and Belleville Laugavegur 11 | F7 Friða Frænka Featuring the best in egur. The Marimekko Supra and more. For whatever women’s an excellent selection knitting supplies. Laugavegur 25 | G7 Featuring quality Vesturgata 3 | D5 Glamúr contemporary Icelandic concept store stocks Rokk og Rósir lingerie needs you of sportswear. Icelandic outdoor gear, A real treasure chest of Laugavegur 41 | Iða a wide selection of might have, this is the Stuffed with trendy H7 design of everyday Laugavegur 17 | G7 Grab a free copy at your hotel or nearest tourist info www.designdistrict.is B14 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2008

INTERVIEW By ben h. Murray

Absolutely. You could slip them on the plane and they’d never know… Anyway, your new single is called Mountains - why? It’s about going through challenges in life and some of the things you can face. That’s roughly where it comes from, how people in your life can help you get through things and you do it together. It’s really a symbol for a struggle, but also the challenge.I think with challenges, when you conquer them, the results are that much better because things have been difficult. That’s what it’s about, how you get stronger through the difficult times. Does that idea reflect Biffy Clyro’s last year or two? I think Simon always writes lyrics from a fairly personal point of view, it’s more than likely that it’s about that. It also applies to life in general even though it’s quite specific about what we’ve been through. Scotland also has quite a ‘diverse’ (i.e. odd) cuisine, as does Iceland. Will you be trying raw whale, puffin or anything similar? Well we’ve had a few weird things. We were out in Japan and they had some really crazy food but I’ve never had whale before. There’s a lot of pissed-on shark about. That’s a delicacy too. Definitely. We’re not shy, we’ll eat anything. Surely haggis (traditional offal-based Scottish dish) contains most of those ingredients any- way? I think what goes in haggis is a closely-guarded se- cret. It’s a bunch of really not good tasting stuff with a load of spice so you can’t actually taste it. I gather you’re playing a series of really big gigs later this year around the UK? Yeah, that’s right. Should be good. The biffy clyro clan from kilmarnock So what’s your favourite type of gig to play in terms of venue? Actually, it kind of varies. Over the summer we did a lot of big shows at festivals. That’s always fun because you’re not playing to the same crowd Great Scot! Biffy Clyro Invade Iceland and you’re not sure how people are going to react. You’re probably playing to ten or twenty thousand One top Scottish export that won’t be hit by the credit crunch talk dodgy food, people, maybe even more. We really like the big stage and that aspect but when you play a small playing hard and instigating a reverse Viking invasion. club, there’s something about the intensity. You can see the whites of people’s eyes. We wouldn’t like to give up one gig and totally do the other; I think it’s really important to have a good mix. That’s what Biffy Clyro have had one hell of Weezer followed and Puzzles didn’t even need the guess. Some places effect people less than some of keeps it really exciting for us. a year. After coming somewhere artistic talents of Storm Thorgerson (he designed a the other places you go to and it’s so shut off that I Iceland is quite far away but have you had any near the top of many album of the certain Pink Floyd record cover featuring a prism think it’ll just go off and be a lot of fun. fan mail from other far-flung places? year polls in late 2007, the three- and a rainbow…) to attract adulation around the I know a lot of people are looking forward to We had quite a lot of people from Brazil writing to world, although his surreal style is instantly recogn- seeing you play; do you have any special plans us on message boards but I don’t know if they sent piece (consisting of Simon Neil; isable on the album artwork. or surprises in store? us any fan mail. Around Japan we got some really vocals and guitar, James John- Now winding down after a packed summer tour- We’re just going to turn up and play hard, we’re re- crazy stuff given to us. People drew pictures of us, ston; bass and vocals and Ben ing schedule before opening Iceland Airwaves ally not a band with gimmicks, if you like. We just gave us silk scarves and told us all these strange Johnston; drums and vocals) em- and touring the UK, lead guitarist Simon Neil took try to let the music do the talking. We’ll definitely stories. I think in Japan they are particularly crazy barked on a series of festival and time away from a well-earned holiday to tell the turn up with a lot of energy – it should be great. but really nice. Quite fanatical, I guess. Grapevine about how they’re looking forward to Did you know that 80% of the female gene concert appearances that would sampling the local cuisine and reclaiming some pool in Iceland is Celtic? Biffy Clyro play NASA on Wednesday 15th at the have seemed unlikely after spend- long-lost Celtic X chromosomes in-between play- Wow, that gives us a good head start. Kerrang / Iceland Airwaves night. Their new sin- ing several years knocking around ing NASA at the opening night of Iceland Airwaves The Vikings are meant to have come over to gle ‘Mountains’ is out now. www.myspace.com/ the Scottish gig circuit in relative 10th anniversary. Scotland and stolen all the good looking wom- biffyclyro anonymity. en to take home to Iceland… So are you looking forward to it…have you Right, wow. I like that. been to Iceland before? You should reclaim some of the good ones… Their breakthrough record, the bitter-sweet Puzzles, We’ve not been before, we only know a couple of I think we should. We could have some Celtic lov- proved to be a revelation to the rest of the world. people who’ve been to Iceland at all and all I hear ing going on… Combining a melodramatic sound that hovers be- is great things so we’re really, really looking for- Any tactics for getting them on the plane? We could have some Celtic lov- tween a satisfying sub-metal blast and touching ward to it. Some shots are usually a good way. ing going on… acoustic numbers, the band instantly appealed to You’ve been told a bit about the place, what Maybe one of the ballads from Puzzles would a broad demographic and hit the number two slot are you expecting? be a good start? on the UK album list. Comparisons to Nirvana and People partying all the way through the night, I Oh yeah, get all the girls crying. Books, Music, Souvenirs & lots more.

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PROGRAMME 21:00 Ánanaust professionally for almost a decade through his On the corner of Lækjargata and Austurstræti irritation is charged with curiosity about what widely in theaters, performance festivals and SEQUENCES PROGRAMME – Fort. ARTISTS business Casperelectronics. October 11. to October 17. might be occurring behind the scenes, behind our clubs. She also performs in her much celebrated SATURDAY 11. OCTOBER 02:00 Point gray. ALEXANDER ZAKLYNSKY (IS/UKR) He has worked extensively with musicians Moment of Truth is a sound installation by eyes that catch the images, sound and shapes that videoworks, acting out different characters based FESTIVAL 2008 14:00 The Living Art Museum. The Lost Horse Gallery around the world including Mike Patton, Rahzel, visual artist Haraldur Jónsson, situated behind stand before us. on well-known stereotypes. Though many of her LAUNCHED FOR THE THIRD TIME Sequences 2008 reception. October 11. to October 17. BT and Otto Von Schirach. Edwards worked the wooden fence that surrounds the burnt heart www.magnusarnason.com works touch on infl ammable issues and taboos, TH TH OCTOBER 11 -17 MONDAY 13. OCTOBER Alexander Zaklynsky is an Icelandic / Ukrainian at Hampshire College from 2006-2007 where of Reykjavík. Every fi fteen minutes during the such as racism, the Holocaust, U.S. politics, Sequences is a real-time art festival with a focus 14:00 The Living Art Museum. 21:00 Ánanaust artist from Newport, Rhode Island. After moving he taught a circuit bending heavy “creative festival, a verbal presence can be heard through MAGNÚS HELGASON (IS) terrorism and colonialism,they are entertaining on urban and public spaces. Its emphasis is on Dr. Björn Quiring, BJ Nilsen, Darri – Fort. to New York in 2001 Alexander developed his electronics” course and developed a previously this fence. The invisible sounds evoke multiple Stolen Moment and full of humor. time-based work, performance, sound art, video Lorenzen, Finnbogi Pétursson and 02:00 Point gray. work through various shows and independent non-existent electronics department. He has associations in the minds and bodies of the The Nordic House Tamy Ben-Tor’s exhibition at 101 Projects will and music. Ingólfur Arnarsson: Open. projects. Alexander apprenticed a number of taught numerous workshops on circuit bending passersby. October 11. to October 17. include fi ve of her recent videoworks. Sequences 2008 strives to create a platform for TUESDAY 14. OCTOBER highly regarded professional Artists in New York andinterface design at venues across America and http://www.this.is/comet This is a black and white super 8 fi lm, capturing Tamy Ben-Tor’s exhibition at 101 Projects, dialogue and for exploring cross-disciplinary 15:00 Kling & Bang Gallery 14:00 Hverfi sgata 59 but seized the chance to move to Iceland via an performs regularly in New York. a boy on his way home from his guitar lesson. He curated by Birta Guðjónsdóttir, is presented in activity of local and international artists. Lortur: Release Party - Trommusóló – Elvar Már Kjartansson & Hanna Arts residency in December 2005. Alexander www.casperelectronics.com HILDUR I. GUÐNADÓTTIR (IS) has no idea that he is being fi lmed, and therefore collaboration with Zach Feuer Gallery in New We’ll have artwork glowing in the sewer H42 Artist Book. 18:00 Christel Sigurkarlsdóttir. continues to live in Reykjavik and is a co founder ELÍN HANSDÓTTIR (IS) the piece was given the title Stolen Moment. The York. system, in the sky and everywhere in between, Lortadans directed by Gunnlaugur Sequence nr. (7). of The Lost Horse Gallery. Subaqua is the ELÍN HANSDÓTTIR (IS) Runway & Music for Airports 2/2 fi lm is set to the music of Jóhann Jóhannsson, www.zachfeuer.com/tamybentor_2008.html in downtown artist-run galleries and museums, Egilsson under the drum beats of Friðrik pseudonym for Video + Sound work produced by ÚLFUR HANSSON (IS) Héðinshúsið at Mýrargata and has been used alongside Jóhann’s live in the streets, up the cities’ walls, in theatres Sólnes and the dolce tunes of Franz 19:00 Dwarf Gallery Alexander Zaklynsky. Helix October 14, 21:00 performances on a number of occasions. TERESA HIMMER (DK) and warehouses. Sequences looks forward to Lizst, pancakes and an open drum kit. Trong Gia Nguyen. Marcel Duchamp Gróttuviti- lighthouse in Seltjarnarnes Runway – by Hildur I. Guðnadóttir www.myspace.com/magnushelgason Volcano sprinkling some brightness around town with versus Bobby Fischer. A performance AMANDA RIFFO (FR) October 12, 21:30 This piece was composed for the Caput chamber On the facade of Kling & Bang Gallery some of Iceland’s most exciting artists with like- 16:00 Belleville featuring Tómas Lemarquis. The Lost Horse Gallery Vocal installation in Grótta lighthouse in ensemble. It is inspired by and based on MOSS STORIES October 11. minded guests from Canada, France, Germany, Fumiko Imano: Icelandic Tour of Me! October 11. to October 17. collaboration with local choir Selkórinn. airplanes, runways and aviation communication. INGIBJÖRG BIRGISDÓTTIR (IS), Situated on the west-facing gable of Hverfi sgata Spain, USA, Australia, Israel, Sweden and 21:00 Héðinshúsið Amanda Riffo lives and works in Paris, a www.elinhansdottir.net The setup of the piece is designed for a large SINDRI MÁR SIGFÚSSON (IS), JÓN 42, Volcano is the latest addition to the Mountain Denmark. 17:00 The Lost Horse Gallery Hildur I. Guðnadóttir in collaboration graduate from Ecole Nationale Superieure des www.myspace.com/kliveisklive space, moving live acoustic surround sound, ÞÓR BIRGISSON (IS), SCOTT ALA- Series that includes the Waterfall at Bankastræti Casper Electronics, Kippi Kaninus, with Elín Hansdóttir: Music For Airports Beaux Arts de Paris. She has participated to lights and light conducting aviation-based RIO (USA), ALEX SOMERS (USA), 6 made for Sequences 2006, and the Glacier at Sequence: A following of one thing after Alexander Zaklinsky & Amanda Riffo. 2/2 by Brian Eno arranged by Hildur and workshops, residencies and exchange programs ELVAR MÁR KJARTANSSON (IS) systems—designed and built specially for this MARGUERITE KEYES (USA) Klapparstígur 28, revealed in June this year. another; succession. A series of related shots that Runway written and arranged by Hildur. in Tokyo, Beyrouth, Helsinki and recently HANNA C. SIGURKARLSDÓTTIR (IS) occasion. The piece was conceived in close co- Af fjöllum The series constitutes surreal meetings between constitute a complete unit of action. 19:00 Kronkron Performed by Hildur & Caput. Iceland. She creates games from drawings, Sequence nr. (7) operation with artist Elín Hansdóttir. Gallery Turpentine highly urban walls and iconic natural phenomena. Andrew Burgess. Andrewandyou.com. objects, video and installations, playing with the Hverfi sgata 59 Music for Airports 2/2 – by Brian Eno. Arranged Otober 15. to October 17. Loving tributes to Reykjavík and Iceland, they For further information and daily updates visit: WEDNESDAY 15. OCTOBER un-un-un-understandable. October 11, 21:00 for brass sextet by Hildur I. Guðnadóttir “Að koma af fjöllum” or “coming of mountains” also attempt to challenge our perception of public www.sequences.is 20:00 The Nordic House 18:00 Gallery Turpentine www.schirman-debeauce.com October 12, 12:00-17:00 Music for Airports was fi rst released in 1978 and means being totally bewildered, confused or space and the notion of culture vs. nature. Magnús Árnason: Irritation, Magnús Moss Stories: Af fjöllum October 14, 14:00-18:00 therefore celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. uninformed. The Moss Stories artists have tried Like the two earlier pieces, Volcano is made Offi ce: Helgason: Stolen Moment & Björk ANDREW BURGESS (USA) October 17, 14:00-17:00 It was the fi rst of four records on Eno’s record to capture this feeling of being bewildered and from thousands and thousands of sequins. Being Sequences Viggósdóttir: Reverse / Moment / Verse. 20:00 Kling & Bang Gallery Andrewandyou.com Hanna and Elvar have created something special label, Ambient. It was originally designed to be alone and letting your imagination run wild for fi xed very lightly on small pins, they make The Living Art Museum Lortur: Djöfl afúgan: A dance Kronkron, Laugarvegur 63b a promise of a journey. a portal to somewhere, an ongoing looped sound installation to soothe better or worse. the lava shimmer and glow like fi re, refl ecting Laugavegur 26 21:00 Hverfi sgata 59 performance by Gunnlaugur Egilsson. October 11. to October 17. many kinds of love. there is no end to the tunnel. the otherwise tense atmosphere at airports. Ingibjörg and Sindri play music together in every environmental change—be it from light or 101 Reykjavik Elvar Már Kjartansson & The Artist Book in the 21st Century: A Andrewandyou.com is an animation and web plane walkers we are going to elevate you. Hildur’s arrangement is true to the original album Seabear and have created videos and exhibited as weather. Iceland Hanna Christel Sigurkarlsdóttir. panel discussion hosted by Hafsteinn piece by architect and artist Andrew Burgess. astral plane the journey version, although it adds the breath of brass and a team for several years. Jón Þór and Alex have Although highly artifi cial, this constant change www.sequences.is Sequence nr. (7). Gunnar Sigurðsson. Andrewandyou.com begins in space. Stars start Buck Owens the special acoustic surround setup. been an artist duo since 2003 making videos, gives the piece an almost supernatural glow, [email protected] to rearrange themselves to reveal otherwise www.hildurness.com music and pictures under the name of Riceboy which, if viewed with an open mind, transforms 21:30 The Living Art Museum 22:00 Kling & Bang Gallery unseen surfaces fl oating in the void. These FASTWÜRMS www.elinhansdottir.net Sleeps. Marguerite and Scott lived in Reykjavík the house at Hverfi sgata into a geometric – BJ Nilsen, Dr. Björn Quiring, Darri Lortur: Two documentaries premiered: surfaces slowly amount to invisible buildings KIM KOZZI (CA), DAI SKUSE (CA) for a year and during that time teamed up with volcano, and Reykjavík into a magical man-made HONORARY 23:20 Lorenzen, Finnbogi Pétursson & Fríar fantasíur by Guðný Rúnarsdóttir out of thin air. This fl ow shapes a mirage: this Krummi Krúnkar KIPPI KANÍNUS (IS) Jónsi and Alex, exhibiting twice and forming the landscape. Ingólfur Arnarsson: Bílferð nr. II / & Markús Bjarnason and Íslensk alþýða building never lasts in its current state; it is Iðnó Pneumatic Shower publishing group Moss Stories. ARTIST: RÚRÍ Autofahrt nr. II. by Þórunn Hafstað. constantly different and changing. It is present October 17, 20:00–24:00 Lost Horse Gallery www.mossstories.com TRONG GIA NGUYEN (USA) RÚRÍ & JÓHANN JÓHANNSSON and not. Krummi Krúnkar brings together a relational October 11. to October 17. Marcel Duchamp Versus Bobby Fischer COLLABORATE 20:00 Seljavegi 32 THURSDAY 16. OCTOBER And then it disappears. performance, Taro-Tat, and a video presentation, Pneumatic Shower consists of a few dozen small RÓSA SIGRÚN JÓNSDÓTTIR (IS) Dwarf Gallery For Sequences 2008, the festival’s curatorial – SIM. Landhelgisgæslan – Open artist 16:00 Kling & Bang Gallery www.andrewburgess.com Witch vs Ninja. organ pipes, an organ air motor, clear tubes and ICELAND October 14, 19:00 board decided to acknowledge a renowned 22:00 studios Lortur: Orgelkvartettinn Ananas Witch vs Ninja is an original Fastwürms HD a bit of plumbing. The idea is to make a tone Oh when Trong Gia Nguyen is a visual artist, curator, artist for her notable contribution to real-time & guests, featuring: Músíkvatur, BJÖRK VIGGÓSDÓTTIR (IS) video production shot on location in Venice and cluster shower with manually operated timbre Dwarf Gallery writer and art critic. His work pits two indi- art mediums. It is our privilege to present Rúrí 22:00 Ánanaust Aristocrasia, Gason Bra, Ssangyoung Reverse / Moment / Verse Scarlet Hill, Ontario. It is a radical, no-budget faucets. October 17, 18:00 viduals who will channel the spirits of the two as Sequences 2008 honorary artist. Rúrí has – Fort. Musso, Hip Hop Hudson and Krulli The Nordic House artist cinema project, drawing from the low- www.kippikaninus.com At the Dwarf Gallery, Rósa Sigrún presents two masters, Bobby Fisher and Marcel Duchamp, to always worked in various mediums, focusing 02:00 Point gray. Vespa. Iceland Airwaves off venue. Otober 11. to October 17. budget lineage of three legendary kung-fu fi lms. videoworks. The works derive from her day job play a friendly game of chess. The fi rst two duels on performance, video and sound. She has been Performance on October 16, 20:00 Taro-Tat is a performance that combines tarot LORTUR of taking care of elderly people, as well as her took place in New York over the summer, with a dynamic force in the Icelandic art scene for 23:00 Café Cultura 18:00 101 Projects In her art, Björk deals with visual images, emotions, card readings with temporary magic marker tattoo AÐALHEIÐUR HALLDÓRSDÓT- regular jogging sessions through the Fossvogur Duchamp winning one match and the second the last thirty years or so, exhibiting all over – Party at Café Cultura. Tamy Ben-Tor. sounds and sensations in a similar way to what drawings. The intimate and personal interaction TIR, ÁSDÍS SIF GUNNARSDÓTTIR, Cemetary in Reykjavík. ending in a draw. The third and fi nal match the world, representing Iceland at the Venice 01:00 Dj´s: Mr. Silla and Gunni Tynes occurs involuntarily in the mind during certain between performer and public in Taro-Tat is BJARNI MASSI, DAGMAR ATLADÓT- In these videos, Rósa Sigrún asks questions such culminates at Dwarf Gallery on October 14. Biennale 2003. 19:00 Kling & Bang Gallery states of consciousness, whether in dreams or while paired with the mediated spectacle of Witch TIR, DAVÍÐ ÖRN HALLDÓRSSON as how to treat death in our daily lives: with Actor / visual artist Tómas Lemarquis will be For Sequences 2008, Rúrí is presenting WORKS IN PUBLIC SPACE Lortur: Klive. Iceland Airwaves awake. vs Ninja to make Krummi Krúnkar a unique HAMAR, FALLEGA GULRÓTIN, aging, death comes closer, but is distant as well. participating in the performance. Vocal IV in collaboration with musician – Útúrdúr off venue. The videos in Björk’s installation are inspired aesthetic experience. FRIÐ RIK SÓLNES, GUÐNÝ RÚNARS- What roles does it play in the living moment, www.cameandwent.com/tgnprojects.html Jóhann Jóhannsson. Vocal IV is an elaborate Halldór Arnar Úlfarsson . Installation by poems by the artist herself, written during her www.paulpetro.com/fastwurms DÓTTIR, GUNNLAUGUR EGILSSON, which we all strive to experience? performance with diverse elements: video, music, for seven people. 20:00 The Nordic House travels. The images are combined with sounds HAFSTEINN GUNNAR SIGURÐS- Rósa graduated from The Iceland Academy UNNUR MJÖLL LEIFSDÓTTIR (IS) sound, waterfall swish, and texts that Rúrí has Björk Viggósdóttir concert featuring composed by the artist and produced for the FORT SON, HILDIGUNNUR BIRGISDÓT- of the Arts in 2001 and has since held ten Watery pleasure collected about water from international debate – Corner of Lækjargata & Austurstræti Caroline Mallonée, Hákon Aðalsteinsson, performance in collaboration with composers and ALBERTA NIEMANN (GER), ANNA TIR, HUGINN ÞÓR ARA SON, INGI solo exhibitions and participated in various Skólavörðustígur on the subject. This is the fi rst time Rúrí has Haraldur Jónsson. The moment of truth. Borgar Magnason, Kippi Kaninus & musicians Caroline Mallonée, Hákon Aðalsteinsson, JANDT (GER), JENNY KROPP (GER) RAFN STEINARSSON, INGI BJÖRG art projects, including serving as the former October 11. worked with a composer for a performance. Kristín Maríella Friðjónsdóttir. Borgar Magnasson, Guðmundur Vignir Karlsson Point gray MAGNADÓTTIR, JÓN THOR HAN- chairman of The Reykjavík Association of Fairy tales tell us of the rainbow as the bridge to Together Rúri and Jóhann have teamed up with – Laugarvegur 32 and violinist Kristín Mariella Friðjónsdóttir. During Ánanaust, Vesturbær, by the gas-station SEN, KID TWIST, KLIVE, KOLBEINN Sculptors. a pot of gold. The key to its mystery resides in the Nýló choir, percussionist Matthías Hemstock Sara Riel. Underworld. 21:00 Between Laugarvegur 18 and 20a the exhibition, on October 16th there will be a October 11, 2008, 22:00-02:00 HUGI HÖSKULDSSON, KRISTJÁN english.umm.is/UMMenglish/Artists/ the wave properties of light in the properties of and a group of electric guitarists, including Pétur Sara Riel. Godsend. performance featuring those artists. October 12-13, 2008, 21:00-02:00 LOÐMFJÖRÐ, LIBIA CAS TRO & Abouttheartist/249 water and the spherical shape of water droplets. Hallgrímsson, Hilmar Jensson and S. Björn – The west facing gable of Kling & http://bjorkbjork.blogspot.com/ This is a high cube coat for liquids and semi- ÓLAFUR ÓLAFSSON, ORGELK- The basis of this phenomenon needs a sophisti- Blöndal to create a vast, thunderous sound scape. Bang Gallery. 22:00 The Lost Horse Gallery http://www.myspace.com/bjorksound solids. This is the optimum innings for a glance VARTETTINN ANANAS, ÓLAFUR SARA RIEL (IS) cated mathematical description. However, the The performance will take place in the Reykjavík Theresa Himmer. Volcano. FM Belfast & Reykjavík. Concert. of the shore, watching your favorite ravens fly EGILL EGILSSON, PÉT UR MÁR Godsend & Underworld gleaming stream that holds so many sensual Art Museum, Hafnarhús, on October 12th at BJ NILSEN (SWE) and, yes, craving your personal golden gray. This GUNNARSSON, SKAKKA MANAGE, Between Laugavegur 20 and Laugavegur 18, de lights for the urophiliacs of this world needs no 20:00. – Skólavörðustígur FRIDAY 17. OCTOBER DARRI LORENZEN (IS) is Blind Endings In Friendly Fire. STEVE LORENZ, ÞÓRUNN HAFSTAÐ, Laugavegur 32 such elaboration. Artist Unnur Mjöll has created For further information: Unnur Mjöll Leifsdóttir. Watery 14:00 Hverfi sgata 59 DR. BJÖRN QUIRING (GER) We are awaiting your arrival from the 11th to the ÞRÁNDUR ÞÓRARINSSON October 16, 21:00, October 11. to October 21. a tranquil environment for the spectator, to soothe www.ruri.is Pleasure. – Elvar Már Kjartansson & Hanna Christel FINNBOGI PÉTURSSON (IS) 13th of October 2008 in Reykjavik, Iceland. Drumsolo H42 Godsend: On the 16th of October at 22:00, we the body and rest the mind, in the commercial www.johannjohannsson.com 17:00 Sigurkarlsdóttir. INGÓLFUR ARNARSSON (IS) www.fortcollective.com Kling & Bang Gallery will send greetings, wishes and complaints to the byway that Skólavörðustígur offers. An event that SUNDAY 12. OCTOBER Sequence nr. (7). Open October 11. to October 17. sky in a ceremonious way. Women and men are captures the warm glow of exaltation that follows 12:00 Hverfi sgata 59 The Living Art Museum FUMIKO IMANO (JAP) Lortur is an informal and ever-changing group of urged to be there in good time and pronounce the unexpected discovery of a rainbow or feeling AUDIO/VISUAL – Elvar Már Kjartansson & Hanna Christel 16:00 Kling & Bang Gallery Otober 11. to October 17. Icelandic Tour of Me! 2008 artists, fi lmmakers, writers, theater practitioners, what is on their minds. a watery pleasure on the skin. – Hye Joung Park 17:00 Sigurkarlsdóttir. Lortur: Kid Twist. Iceland Airwaves off “A museum has basically always been composed Belleville dancers, musicians and others who share an Underworld: The artwork gives an indication of CONCERT Sequence nr. (7). venue. of an archival collection on the one hand and a October 11. to October 17. inventive sensibility and a need to create. Every the underworld, as we know it from fi ction and IN COLLABORATION WITH ICELAND gallery on the other, that is, an open, accessible Fumiko Imano is a Japanese self-portrait artist two years since 2002, the group has organized fi lms. It is a dangerous and slimy world, fi lled AIRWAVES & BEDROOM COMMUNITY 16:00 The Living Art Museum 17:00 Kling & Bang Gallery area and a closed, interior area. This arrangement based in photography and video. As a 24hour and held the Trommusóló biennial art exhibition. with creatures of the darkness. The viewer and On October 17th, Sequences presents an audio/ Dr. Björn Quiring: Reframing the Open Lortur: Skakkamanage. Iceland has a history translating in oblique ways model, stylist, and a photographer for herself, she This year’s event will take place at Kling & Bang his imagination becomes an active participant in visual concert dedicated to the dynamics between Archive: A Live Show – A lecture by Airwaves off venue. inclusionary and exclusionary power struggles, documents everyday life through her eye as an Gallery on Hverfi sgata. the general idea, because it is out of his fantasy experimental fi lm/video art and alternative music Dr. Quiring with live sounds by BJ which both frame the museum itself and open artist. This time in Icelandic Tour of Me! 2008, The program will be dense, diverse and and experience that the story takes its fi nal shape. in a live setting. Nilsen. 18:00 Dwarf Gallery it to outside forces. Art has to engage with this she shows a selection of photographs and video. lubricated with creative joy. There will www.sarariel.com Transforma –An experimental fi lm collective Rósa Sigrún Jónsdóttir. Oh when. structural tension between gallery and archive Her mini book Fumiko Imano 1974-2004 will be be an art show, video program, a series of from Berlin joins forces with Australian noise 17:00 The National Gallery of Iceland in one way or another. What are the chances of available at the exhibition in Belleville. concerts (organized in conjunction with STILLUPPSTEYPA (IS) wizard Ben Frost and experimental music Stilluppsteypa: Stilluppsteypa Presented 20:00 Iðnó producing art that would situate itself neither on www.fumikoimano.com Iceland Airwaves), dance performances, panel Stilluppsteypa presented by other beings: collective Bedroom Community in an By Other Beings -An Artifi cial – Fastwurms. one side of the barrier nor on the other? What discussions, and an artist book will be published an artifi cial intergalactic alien presentation improvised performance comprised of Ben’s Intergalactic Alien Presentation 24:00 Krummi Krúnkar. strategies would be appropriate for its passage HALLDÓR ARNAR ÚLFARSSON (IS) to coincide with the Biennale. presented by a fantastic wave of other beings. music and Transforma’s visuals. Presented By a Fantastic Wave of Other toward an open space that is located neither Installation for seven people The National Gallery of Iceland French visual artist Yroyoto runs an interesting Beings. 20:00 Iðnó outside nor inside the archival framework?” Útúrdúr, Njálsgata 14 MAGNÚS ÁRNASON (IS) October 12. to October 17. video label in Paris called ExplosiveTV, – Audio/visual concert in collaboration Dr. Björn Quiring October 11. to October 17. Irritation Basically in this whole presentation the dedicated to experimental video works. His 20:00 The Reykjavík Art Museum -Hafnarhús 02:00 with Bedroom Community and Iceland www.bjnilsen.com I’m fi nding it increasingly hard to focus on things The Nordic House Stilluppsteypa members Helgi Þórsson and offering for Sequences is an interactive audio/ Performance by Sequences honorary Airwaves. www.darrilorenzen.net other than people. The most real moments in my October 11. to October 17. Sigtryggur Berg Sigmarsson are admitting that visual performance, celebrating live sound and art ist Rúrí, in collaboration with Jóhann Yroyto userpage.fu-berlin.de/~quirrrrl/INTRO.html days are when I’m drinking coffee or beer with Irritation as a sense is the only universal aliens exist. video manipulation. Jóhannsson. Performed by Rúrí, Jóhann, Ben Frost vs. Transforma www.fi nnbogi.com someone and having a conversation. I’m also sense shared by all species, even single-celled www.helenscarsdale.com/stilluppsteypa Further information: Matthías Hemstock, Pétur Hallgrímsson, Amiina www.nylo.is/index.php?option=content&task= starting to ignore problems that don’t directly creatures. Its concept does not only live as a www.icelandairwaves.com Hilmar Jensson, S. Björn Blöndal Sam Amidon view&id=429&Itemid=237 have to do with socializing. I like the feeling that subjective one, such as beauty or distaste, but TAMY BEN-TOR (ISR) www.bedroomcommunity.net & Nýlókórinn directed by Hörður Nico Muhly I might make a special moment for someone in takes over one’s bodily functions and activating Tamy Ben-Tor www.yroyto.com Bragason. Vocal IV. Valgeir Sigurðsson CASPERELECTRONICS (USA) their day, something they weren’t expecting. our physical impulses. This art project could be 101 Projects www.ethermachines.com Final Fantasy The Lost Horse Gallery www.myspace.com/halldorion seen as rendering visible the force that occurs October 16, 18:00 www.transforma.de 21:30 Gróttuviti October 11. to October 17. when the irritant, a stimulus or agent which Artist Tamy Ben-Tor was born in Israel and The event is supported by The Goethe Institute Elín Hansdóttir & Úlfur Hansson Helix, New York City based artist Peter Edwards HARALDUR JÓNSSON (IS) induces the state of irritation, enters the system. lives in New York City. Ben-Tor mainly works and The French Embassy. performed by Selkórinn. has been building synths and circuit bending Moment of Truth As to wherefrom this work draws its inspirations, with video and performance. She has performed 21:00 Ánanaust professionally for almost a decade through his On the corner of Lækjargata and Austurstræti irritation is charged with curiosity about what widely in theaters, performance festivals and SEQUENCES PROGRAMME – Fort. ARTISTS business Casperelectronics. October 11. to October 17. might be occurring behind the scenes, behind our clubs. She also performs in her much celebrated SATURDAY 11. OCTOBER 02:00 Point gray. ALEXANDER ZAKLYNSKY (IS/UKR) He has worked extensively with musicians Moment of Truth is a sound installation by eyes that catch the images, sound and shapes that videoworks, acting out different characters based FESTIVAL 2008 14:00 The Living Art Museum. The Lost Horse Gallery around the world including Mike Patton, Rahzel, visual artist Haraldur Jónsson, situated behind stand before us. on well-known stereotypes. Though many of her LAUNCHED FOR THE THIRD TIME Sequences 2008 reception. October 11. to October 17. BT and Otto Von Schirach. Edwards worked the wooden fence that surrounds the burnt heart www.magnusarnason.com works touch on infl ammable issues and taboos, TH TH OCTOBER 11 -17 MONDAY 13. OCTOBER Alexander Zaklynsky is an Icelandic / Ukrainian at Hampshire College from 2006-2007 where of Reykjavík. Every fi fteen minutes during the such as racism, the Holocaust, U.S. politics, Sequences is a real-time art festival with a focus 14:00 The Living Art Museum. 21:00 Ánanaust artist from Newport, Rhode Island. After moving he taught a circuit bending heavy “creative festival, a verbal presence can be heard through MAGNÚS HELGASON (IS) terrorism and colonialism,they are entertaining on urban and public spaces. Its emphasis is on Dr. Björn Quiring, BJ Nilsen, Darri – Fort. to New York in 2001 Alexander developed his electronics” course and developed a previously this fence. The invisible sounds evoke multiple Stolen Moment and full of humor. time-based work, performance, sound art, video Lorenzen, Finnbogi Pétursson and 02:00 Point gray. work through various shows and independent non-existent electronics department. He has associations in the minds and bodies of the The Nordic House Tamy Ben-Tor’s exhibition at 101 Projects will and music. Ingólfur Arnarsson: Open. projects. Alexander apprenticed a number of taught numerous workshops on circuit bending passersby. October 11. to October 17. include fi ve of her recent videoworks. Sequences 2008 strives to create a platform for TUESDAY 14. OCTOBER highly regarded professional Artists in New York andinterface design at venues across America and http://www.this.is/comet This is a black and white super 8 fi lm, capturing Tamy Ben-Tor’s exhibition at 101 Projects, dialogue and for exploring cross-disciplinary 15:00 Kling & Bang Gallery 14:00 Hverfi sgata 59 but seized the chance to move to Iceland via an performs regularly in New York. a boy on his way home from his guitar lesson. He curated by Birta Guðjónsdóttir, is presented in activity of local and international artists. Lortur: Release Party - Trommusóló – Elvar Már Kjartansson & Hanna Arts residency in December 2005. Alexander www.casperelectronics.com HILDUR I. GUÐNADÓTTIR (IS) has no idea that he is being fi lmed, and therefore collaboration with Zach Feuer Gallery in New We’ll have artwork glowing in the sewer H42 Artist Book. 18:00 Christel Sigurkarlsdóttir. continues to live in Reykjavik and is a co founder ELÍN HANSDÓTTIR (IS) the piece was given the title Stolen Moment. The York. system, in the sky and everywhere in between, Lortadans directed by Gunnlaugur Sequence nr. (7). of The Lost Horse Gallery. Subaqua is the ELÍN HANSDÓTTIR (IS) Runway & Music for Airports 2/2 fi lm is set to the music of Jóhann Jóhannsson, www.zachfeuer.com/tamybentor_2008.html in downtown artist-run galleries and museums, Egilsson under the drum beats of Friðrik pseudonym for Video + Sound work produced by ÚLFUR HANSSON (IS) Héðinshúsið at Mýrargata and has been used alongside Jóhann’s live in the streets, up the cities’ walls, in theatres Sólnes and the dolce tunes of Franz 19:00 Dwarf Gallery Alexander Zaklynsky. Helix October 14, 21:00 performances on a number of occasions. TERESA HIMMER (DK) and warehouses. Sequences looks forward to Lizst, pancakes and an open drum kit. Trong Gia Nguyen. Marcel Duchamp Gróttuviti- lighthouse in Seltjarnarnes Runway – by Hildur I. Guðnadóttir www.myspace.com/magnushelgason Volcano sprinkling some brightness around town with versus Bobby Fischer. A performance AMANDA RIFFO (FR) October 12, 21:30 This piece was composed for the Caput chamber On the facade of Kling & Bang Gallery some of Iceland’s most exciting artists with like- 16:00 Belleville featuring Tómas Lemarquis. The Lost Horse Gallery Vocal installation in Grótta lighthouse in ensemble. It is inspired by and based on MOSS STORIES October 11. minded guests from Canada, France, Germany, Fumiko Imano: Icelandic Tour of Me! October 11. to October 17. collaboration with local choir Selkórinn. airplanes, runways and aviation communication. INGIBJÖRG BIRGISDÓTTIR (IS), Situated on the west-facing gable of Hverfi sgata Spain, USA, Australia, Israel, Sweden and 21:00 Héðinshúsið Amanda Riffo lives and works in Paris, a www.elinhansdottir.net The setup of the piece is designed for a large SINDRI MÁR SIGFÚSSON (IS), JÓN 42, Volcano is the latest addition to the Mountain Denmark. 17:00 The Lost Horse Gallery Hildur I. Guðnadóttir in collaboration graduate from Ecole Nationale Superieure des www.myspace.com/kliveisklive space, moving live acoustic surround sound, ÞÓR BIRGISSON (IS), SCOTT ALA- Series that includes the Waterfall at Bankastræti Casper Electronics, Kippi Kaninus, with Elín Hansdóttir: Music For Airports Beaux Arts de Paris. She has participated to lights and light conducting aviation-based RIO (USA), ALEX SOMERS (USA), 6 made for Sequences 2006, and the Glacier at Sequence: A following of one thing after Alexander Zaklinsky & Amanda Riffo. 2/2 by Brian Eno arranged by Hildur and workshops, residencies and exchange programs ELVAR MÁR KJARTANSSON (IS) systems—designed and built specially for this MARGUERITE KEYES (USA) Klapparstígur 28, revealed in June this year. another; succession. A series of related shots that Runway written and arranged by Hildur. in Tokyo, Beyrouth, Helsinki and recently HANNA C. SIGURKARLSDÓTTIR (IS) occasion. The piece was conceived in close co- Af fjöllum The series constitutes surreal meetings between constitute a complete unit of action. 19:00 Kronkron Performed by Hildur & Caput. Iceland. She creates games from drawings, Sequence nr. (7) operation with artist Elín Hansdóttir. Gallery Turpentine highly urban walls and iconic natural phenomena. Andrew Burgess. Andrewandyou.com. objects, video and installations, playing with the Hverfi sgata 59 Music for Airports 2/2 – by Brian Eno. Arranged Otober 15. to October 17. Loving tributes to Reykjavík and Iceland, they For further information and daily updates visit: WEDNESDAY 15. OCTOBER un-un-un-understandable. October 11, 21:00 for brass sextet by Hildur I. Guðnadóttir “Að koma af fjöllum” or “coming of mountains” also attempt to challenge our perception of public www.sequences.is 20:00 The Nordic House 18:00 Gallery Turpentine www.schirman-debeauce.com October 12, 12:00-17:00 Music for Airports was fi rst released in 1978 and means being totally bewildered, confused or space and the notion of culture vs. nature. Magnús Árnason: Irritation, Magnús Moss Stories: Af fjöllum October 14, 14:00-18:00 therefore celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. uninformed. The Moss Stories artists have tried Like the two earlier pieces, Volcano is made Offi ce: Helgason: Stolen Moment & Björk ANDREW BURGESS (USA) October 17, 14:00-17:00 It was the fi rst of four records on Eno’s record to capture this feeling of being bewildered and from thousands and thousands of sequins. Being Sequences Viggósdóttir: Reverse / Moment / Verse. 20:00 Kling & Bang Gallery Andrewandyou.com Hanna and Elvar have created something special label, Ambient. It was originally designed to be alone and letting your imagination run wild for fi xed very lightly on small pins, they make The Living Art Museum Lortur: Djöfl afúgan: A dance Kronkron, Laugarvegur 63b a promise of a journey. a portal to somewhere, an ongoing looped sound installation to soothe better or worse. the lava shimmer and glow like fi re, refl ecting Laugavegur 26 21:00 Hverfi sgata 59 performance by Gunnlaugur Egilsson. October 11. to October 17. many kinds of love. there is no end to the tunnel. the otherwise tense atmosphere at airports. Ingibjörg and Sindri play music together in every environmental change—be it from light or 101 Reykjavik Elvar Már Kjartansson & The Artist Book in the 21st Century: A Andrewandyou.com is an animation and web plane walkers we are going to elevate you. Hildur’s arrangement is true to the original album Seabear and have created videos and exhibited as weather. Iceland Hanna Christel Sigurkarlsdóttir. panel discussion hosted by Hafsteinn piece by architect and artist Andrew Burgess. astral plane the journey version, although it adds the breath of brass and a team for several years. Jón Þór and Alex have Although highly artifi cial, this constant change www.sequences.is Sequence nr. (7). Gunnar Sigurðsson. Andrewandyou.com begins in space. Stars start Buck Owens the special acoustic surround setup. been an artist duo since 2003 making videos, gives the piece an almost supernatural glow, [email protected] to rearrange themselves to reveal otherwise www.hildurness.com music and pictures under the name of Riceboy which, if viewed with an open mind, transforms 21:30 The Living Art Museum 22:00 Kling & Bang Gallery unseen surfaces fl oating in the void. These FASTWÜRMS www.elinhansdottir.net Sleeps. Marguerite and Scott lived in Reykjavík the house at Hverfi sgata into a geometric – BJ Nilsen, Dr. Björn Quiring, Darri Lortur: Two documentaries premiered: surfaces slowly amount to invisible buildings KIM KOZZI (CA), DAI SKUSE (CA) for a year and during that time teamed up with volcano, and Reykjavík into a magical man-made HONORARY 23:20 Lorenzen, Finnbogi Pétursson & Fríar fantasíur by Guðný Rúnarsdóttir out of thin air. This fl ow shapes a mirage: this Krummi Krúnkar KIPPI KANÍNUS (IS) Jónsi and Alex, exhibiting twice and forming the landscape. Ingólfur Arnarsson: Bílferð nr. II / & Markús Bjarnason and Íslensk alþýða building never lasts in its current state; it is Iðnó Pneumatic Shower publishing group Moss Stories. ARTIST: RÚRÍ Autofahrt nr. II. by Þórunn Hafstað. constantly different and changing. It is present October 17, 20:00–24:00 Lost Horse Gallery www.mossstories.com TRONG GIA NGUYEN (USA) RÚRÍ & JÓHANN JÓHANNSSON and not. Krummi Krúnkar brings together a relational October 11. to October 17. Marcel Duchamp Versus Bobby Fischer COLLABORATE 20:00 Seljavegi 32 THURSDAY 16. OCTOBER And then it disappears. performance, Taro-Tat, and a video presentation, Pneumatic Shower consists of a few dozen small RÓSA SIGRÚN JÓNSDÓTTIR (IS) Dwarf Gallery For Sequences 2008, the festival’s curatorial – SIM. Landhelgisgæslan – Open artist 16:00 Kling & Bang Gallery www.andrewburgess.com Witch vs Ninja. organ pipes, an organ air motor, clear tubes and ICELAND October 14, 19:00 board decided to acknowledge a renowned 22:00 studios Lortur: Orgelkvartettinn Ananas Witch vs Ninja is an original Fastwürms HD a bit of plumbing. The idea is to make a tone Oh when Trong Gia Nguyen is a visual artist, curator, artist for her notable contribution to real-time & guests, featuring: Músíkvatur, BJÖRK VIGGÓSDÓTTIR (IS) video production shot on location in Venice and cluster shower with manually operated timbre Dwarf Gallery writer and art critic. His work pits two indi- art mediums. It is our privilege to present Rúrí 22:00 Ánanaust Aristocrasia, Gason Bra, Ssangyoung Reverse / Moment / Verse Scarlet Hill, Ontario. It is a radical, no-budget faucets. October 17, 18:00 viduals who will channel the spirits of the two as Sequences 2008 honorary artist. Rúrí has – Fort. Musso, Hip Hop Hudson and Krulli The Nordic House artist cinema project, drawing from the low- www.kippikaninus.com At the Dwarf Gallery, Rósa Sigrún presents two masters, Bobby Fisher and Marcel Duchamp, to always worked in various mediums, focusing 02:00 Point gray. Vespa. Iceland Airwaves off venue. Otober 11. to October 17. budget lineage of three legendary kung-fu fi lms. videoworks. The works derive from her day job play a friendly game of chess. The fi rst two duels on performance, video and sound. She has been Performance on October 16, 20:00 Taro-Tat is a performance that combines tarot LORTUR of taking care of elderly people, as well as her took place in New York over the summer, with a dynamic force in the Icelandic art scene for 23:00 Café Cultura 18:00 101 Projects In her art, Björk deals with visual images, emotions, card readings with temporary magic marker tattoo AÐALHEIÐUR HALLDÓRSDÓT- regular jogging sessions through the Fossvogur Duchamp winning one match and the second the last thirty years or so, exhibiting all over – Party at Café Cultura. Tamy Ben-Tor. sounds and sensations in a similar way to what drawings. The intimate and personal interaction TIR, ÁSDÍS SIF GUNNARSDÓTTIR, Cemetary in Reykjavík. ending in a draw. The third and fi nal match the world, representing Iceland at the Venice 01:00 Dj´s: Mr. Silla and Gunni Tynes occurs involuntarily in the mind during certain between performer and public in Taro-Tat is BJARNI MASSI, DAGMAR ATLADÓT- In these videos, Rósa Sigrún asks questions such culminates at Dwarf Gallery on October 14. Biennale 2003. 19:00 Kling & Bang Gallery states of consciousness, whether in dreams or while paired with the mediated spectacle of Witch TIR, DAVÍÐ ÖRN HALLDÓRSSON as how to treat death in our daily lives: with Actor / visual artist Tómas Lemarquis will be For Sequences 2008, Rúrí is presenting WORKS IN PUBLIC SPACE Lortur: Klive. Iceland Airwaves awake. vs Ninja to make Krummi Krúnkar a unique HAMAR, FALLEGA GULRÓTIN, aging, death comes closer, but is distant as well. participating in the performance. Vocal IV in collaboration with musician – Útúrdúr off venue. The videos in Björk’s installation are inspired aesthetic experience. FRIÐ RIK SÓLNES, GUÐNÝ RÚNARS- What roles does it play in the living moment, www.cameandwent.com/tgnprojects.html Jóhann Jóhannsson. Vocal IV is an elaborate Halldór Arnar Úlfarsson . Installation by poems by the artist herself, written during her www.paulpetro.com/fastwurms DÓTTIR, GUNNLAUGUR EGILSSON, which we all strive to experience? performance with diverse elements: video, music, for seven people. 20:00 The Nordic House travels. The images are combined with sounds HAFSTEINN GUNNAR SIGURÐS- Rósa graduated from The Iceland Academy UNNUR MJÖLL LEIFSDÓTTIR (IS) sound, waterfall swish, and texts that Rúrí has Björk Viggósdóttir concert featuring composed by the artist and produced for the FORT SON, HILDIGUNNUR BIRGISDÓT- of the Arts in 2001 and has since held ten Watery pleasure collected about water from international debate – Corner of Lækjargata & Austurstræti Caroline Mallonée, Hákon Aðalsteinsson, performance in collaboration with composers and ALBERTA NIEMANN (GER), ANNA TIR, HUGINN ÞÓR ARA SON, INGI solo exhibitions and participated in various Skólavörðustígur on the subject. This is the fi rst time Rúrí has Haraldur Jónsson. The moment of truth. Borgar Magnason, Kippi Kaninus & musicians Caroline Mallonée, Hákon Aðalsteinsson, JANDT (GER), JENNY KROPP (GER) RAFN STEINARSSON, INGI BJÖRG art projects, including serving as the former October 11. worked with a composer for a performance. Kristín Maríella Friðjónsdóttir. Borgar Magnasson, Guðmundur Vignir Karlsson Point gray MAGNADÓTTIR, JÓN THOR HAN- chairman of The Reykjavík Association of Fairy tales tell us of the rainbow as the bridge to Together Rúri and Jóhann have teamed up with – Laugarvegur 32 and violinist Kristín Mariella Friðjónsdóttir. During Ánanaust, Vesturbær, by the gas-station SEN, KID TWIST, KLIVE, KOLBEINN Sculptors. a pot of gold. The key to its mystery resides in the Nýló choir, percussionist Matthías Hemstock Sara Riel. Underworld. 21:00 Between Laugarvegur 18 and 20a the exhibition, on October 16th there will be a October 11, 2008, 22:00-02:00 HUGI HÖSKULDSSON, KRISTJÁN english.umm.is/UMMenglish/Artists/ the wave properties of light in the properties of and a group of electric guitarists, including Pétur Sara Riel. Godsend. performance featuring those artists. October 12-13, 2008, 21:00-02:00 LOÐMFJÖRÐ, LIBIA CAS TRO & Abouttheartist/249 water and the spherical shape of water droplets. Hallgrímsson, Hilmar Jensson and S. Björn – The west facing gable of Kling & http://bjorkbjork.blogspot.com/ This is a high cube coat for liquids and semi- ÓLAFUR ÓLAFSSON, ORGELK- The basis of this phenomenon needs a sophisti- Blöndal to create a vast, thunderous sound scape. Bang Gallery. 22:00 The Lost Horse Gallery http://www.myspace.com/bjorksound solids. This is the optimum innings for a glance VARTETTINN ANANAS, ÓLAFUR SARA RIEL (IS) cated mathematical description. However, the The performance will take place in the Reykjavík Theresa Himmer. Volcano. FM Belfast & Reykjavík. Concert. of the shore, watching your favorite ravens fly EGILL EGILSSON, PÉT UR MÁR Godsend & Underworld gleaming stream that holds so many sensual Art Museum, Hafnarhús, on October 12th at BJ NILSEN (SWE) and, yes, craving your personal golden gray. This GUNNARSSON, SKAKKA MANAGE, Between Laugavegur 20 and Laugavegur 18, de lights for the urophiliacs of this world needs no 20:00. – Skólavörðustígur FRIDAY 17. OCTOBER DARRI LORENZEN (IS) is Blind Endings In Friendly Fire. STEVE LORENZ, ÞÓRUNN HAFSTAÐ, Laugavegur 32 such elaboration. Artist Unnur Mjöll has created For further information: Unnur Mjöll Leifsdóttir. Watery 14:00 Hverfi sgata 59 DR. BJÖRN QUIRING (GER) We are awaiting your arrival from the 11th to the ÞRÁNDUR ÞÓRARINSSON October 16, 21:00, October 11. to October 21. a tranquil environment for the spectator, to soothe www.ruri.is Pleasure. – Elvar Már Kjartansson & Hanna Christel FINNBOGI PÉTURSSON (IS) 13th of October 2008 in Reykjavik, Iceland. Drumsolo H42 Godsend: On the 16th of October at 22:00, we the body and rest the mind, in the commercial www.johannjohannsson.com 17:00 Sigurkarlsdóttir. INGÓLFUR ARNARSSON (IS) www.fortcollective.com Kling & Bang Gallery will send greetings, wishes and complaints to the byway that Skólavörðustígur offers. An event that SUNDAY 12. OCTOBER Sequence nr. (7). Open October 11. to October 17. sky in a ceremonious way. Women and men are captures the warm glow of exaltation that follows 12:00 Hverfi sgata 59 The Living Art Museum FUMIKO IMANO (JAP) Lortur is an informal and ever-changing group of urged to be there in good time and pronounce the unexpected discovery of a rainbow or feeling AUDIO/VISUAL – Elvar Már Kjartansson & Hanna Christel 16:00 Kling & Bang Gallery Otober 11. to October 17. Icelandic Tour of Me! 2008 artists, fi lmmakers, writers, theater practitioners, what is on their minds. a watery pleasure on the skin. – Hye Joung Park 17:00 Sigurkarlsdóttir. Lortur: Kid Twist. Iceland Airwaves off “A museum has basically always been composed Belleville dancers, musicians and others who share an Underworld: The artwork gives an indication of CONCERT Sequence nr. (7). venue. of an archival collection on the one hand and a October 11. to October 17. inventive sensibility and a need to create. Every the underworld, as we know it from fi ction and IN COLLABORATION WITH ICELAND gallery on the other, that is, an open, accessible Fumiko Imano is a Japanese self-portrait artist two years since 2002, the group has organized fi lms. It is a dangerous and slimy world, fi lled AIRWAVES & BEDROOM COMMUNITY 16:00 The Living Art Museum 17:00 Kling & Bang Gallery area and a closed, interior area. This arrangement based in photography and video. As a 24hour and held the Trommusóló biennial art exhibition. with creatures of the darkness. The viewer and On October 17th, Sequences presents an audio/ Dr. Björn Quiring: Reframing the Open Lortur: Skakkamanage. Iceland has a history translating in oblique ways model, stylist, and a photographer for herself, she This year’s event will take place at Kling & Bang his imagination becomes an active participant in visual concert dedicated to the dynamics between Archive: A Live Show – A lecture by Airwaves off venue. inclusionary and exclusionary power struggles, documents everyday life through her eye as an Gallery on Hverfi sgata. the general idea, because it is out of his fantasy experimental fi lm/video art and alternative music Dr. Quiring with live sounds by BJ which both frame the museum itself and open artist. This time in Icelandic Tour of Me! 2008, The program will be dense, diverse and and experience that the story takes its fi nal shape. in a live setting. Nilsen. 18:00 Dwarf Gallery it to outside forces. Art has to engage with this she shows a selection of photographs and video. lubricated with creative joy. There will www.sarariel.com Transforma –An experimental fi lm collective Rósa Sigrún Jónsdóttir. Oh when. structural tension between gallery and archive Her mini book Fumiko Imano 1974-2004 will be be an art show, video program, a series of from Berlin joins forces with Australian noise 17:00 The National Gallery of Iceland in one way or another. What are the chances of available at the exhibition in Belleville. concerts (organized in conjunction with STILLUPPSTEYPA (IS) wizard Ben Frost and experimental music Stilluppsteypa: Stilluppsteypa Presented 20:00 Iðnó producing art that would situate itself neither on www.fumikoimano.com Iceland Airwaves), dance performances, panel Stilluppsteypa presented by other beings: collective Bedroom Community in an By Other Beings -An Artifi cial – Fastwurms. one side of the barrier nor on the other? What discussions, and an artist book will be published an artifi cial intergalactic alien presentation improvised performance comprised of Ben’s Intergalactic Alien Presentation 24:00 Krummi Krúnkar. strategies would be appropriate for its passage HALLDÓR ARNAR ÚLFARSSON (IS) to coincide with the Biennale. presented by a fantastic wave of other beings. music and Transforma’s visuals. Presented By a Fantastic Wave of Other toward an open space that is located neither Installation for seven people The National Gallery of Iceland French visual artist Yroyoto runs an interesting Beings. 20:00 Iðnó outside nor inside the archival framework?” Útúrdúr, Njálsgata 14 MAGNÚS ÁRNASON (IS) October 12. to October 17. video label in Paris called ExplosiveTV, – Audio/visual concert in collaboration Dr. Björn Quiring October 11. to October 17. Irritation Basically in this whole presentation the dedicated to experimental video works. His 20:00 The Reykjavík Art Museum -Hafnarhús 02:00 with Bedroom Community and Iceland www.bjnilsen.com I’m fi nding it increasingly hard to focus on things The Nordic House Stilluppsteypa members Helgi Þórsson and offering for Sequences is an interactive audio/ Performance by Sequences honorary Airwaves. www.darrilorenzen.net other than people. The most real moments in my October 11. to October 17. Sigtryggur Berg Sigmarsson are admitting that visual performance, celebrating live sound and art ist Rúrí, in collaboration with Jóhann Yroyto userpage.fu-berlin.de/~quirrrrl/INTRO.html days are when I’m drinking coffee or beer with Irritation as a sense is the only universal aliens exist. video manipulation. Jóhannsson. Performed by Rúrí, Jóhann, Ben Frost vs. Transforma www.fi nnbogi.com someone and having a conversation. I’m also sense shared by all species, even single-celled www.helenscarsdale.com/stilluppsteypa Further information: Matthías Hemstock, Pétur Hallgrímsson, Amiina www.nylo.is/index.php?option=content&task= starting to ignore problems that don’t directly creatures. Its concept does not only live as a www.icelandairwaves.com Hilmar Jensson, S. Björn Blöndal Sam Amidon view&id=429&Itemid=237 have to do with socializing. I like the feeling that subjective one, such as beauty or distaste, but TAMY BEN-TOR (ISR) www.bedroomcommunity.net & Nýlókórinn directed by Hörður Nico Muhly I might make a special moment for someone in takes over one’s bodily functions and activating Tamy Ben-Tor www.yroyto.com Bragason. Vocal IV. Valgeir Sigurðsson CASPERELECTRONICS (USA) their day, something they weren’t expecting. our physical impulses. This art project could be 101 Projects www.ethermachines.com Final Fantasy The Lost Horse Gallery www.myspace.com/halldorion seen as rendering visible the force that occurs October 16, 18:00 www.transforma.de 21:30 Gróttuviti October 11. to October 17. when the irritant, a stimulus or agent which Artist Tamy Ben-Tor was born in Israel and The event is supported by The Goethe Institute Elín Hansdóttir & Úlfur Hansson Helix, New York City based artist Peter Edwards HARALDUR JÓNSSON (IS) induces the state of irritation, enters the system. lives in New York City. Ben-Tor mainly works and The French Embassy. performed by Selkórinn. has been building synths and circuit bending Moment of Truth As to wherefrom this work draws its inspirations, with video and performance. She has performed 6 The National gallery of Iceland 11 Belleville VENUES Fríkirkjuvegi 7 Laugavegi 55 1 The Living Art Museum Opening hours: Opening hours: Laugavegur 26 Tue-Sun: 11:00-17:00 Weekdays: 11:00-18:00 Opening hours: www.listasafn.is Sat: 11:00-17:00 weekdays: 10:00-17:00 saturdays: 12:00-17:00 7 The Reykjavik Art Museum 12 Útúrdúr www.nylo.is Hafnarhús Njálsgata 14 Tryggvagötu 17 Open hours: 2 The Dwarf Gallery Opening hours: Wed-Fri: 14:00-18:00 Grundarstíg 21 Mon-Sun: 10:00-17:00 Sat: 14:00-17:00. Opening hours Thur: 10:00-22.00 www.uturdur.blogspot.com Irregular, please see programme www.listasafnreykjavikur.is for further detail 13 Iðnó www.myspace.com/galleridvergur 8 Gallery Turpentine Vonarstræti 3 Ingólfsstræti 5 Open hours: 3 Kling & Bang Gallery Opening hours: Fri, 17. Oct: 20:00-02:00 Please Hverfisgata 42 Tue-Fri: 12:00-18:00 note this is a one off event Opening hours: Sat: 12:00-17:00 www.idno.is Mon-Sat: 14:00-18:00 www.turpentine.is www.this.is/klingogbang/ 14 Héðinshús 9 The Nordic house Mýrargata 4 101 projects Sturlugata 5 Opening hours: Hverfisgata 18a Opening hours: Tues, 14. Oct: at 21:00.Please note Opening hours: Tue-Sun: 12:00-17:00 this is a one off event Wed-Sat: 14:00-17:00 www.nordice.is www.101hotel. OUTSIDE PROJECTS is/101hotel/101gallery 10 Kronkron 15 Ánanaust Laugavegi 63B 16 Gróttuviti-lighthouse, 5 The Lost Horse Gallery Opening hours: Seltjarnarnes Skólastræti 1 Mon-Thu: 10:00-18:00 17 Laugarvegur 18 and 20a Opening hours: Fri: 10:00-18:30 18 Laugavegur 32 Tue-Fri: 11:00-18:00 Sat: 10:00-17:00 19 Skólavörustígur Sat-Sun: 13:00–18:00 www.kronkron.com 20 Hverfisgata 59 www.losthorse.is