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© Lonely Planet Publications 369 DIRECTORY Directory PRACTICALITIES CONTENTS Electrical current is 220V AC, 50Hz. Wall sockets are the European, two round- Accommodation 369 pin type. Activities 371 Business Hours 374 All English-language daily newspapers Calendars 375 in Iran are government-run and avail- Children 375 able only in Tehran and some other Climate Charts 376 large cities. They include the Iran Daily Courses 377 and Iran News, both of which offer good Customs 377 international coverage; Kayhan Inter- Dangers & Annoyances 377 national, which gives new meaning to Embassies & Consulates 380 ‘hardline’; and the Tehran Times, which Festivals & Events 382 cleaves to the government line. Food 383 All Iranian broadcasters are controlled Gay & Lesbian Travellers 383 by the state. However, many Iranians Holidays 383 have access to satellite TV, including Insurance 385 many stations broadcasting in Farsi Internet Access 386 from North America. Legal Matters 386 On Iranian TV, channels 1 to 4 are na- Maps 386 tional, 5 and 6 province-based. Channel Money 387 4 has 10 minutes of news in English at Photography & Video 390 midnight. Most hotels have the 24-hour Post 390 IRINN news channel, which has a news- Shopping 391 ticker in English. Telephone 391 Time 393 Good frequencies for the BBC World Toilets 393 Service (www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice Tourist Information 393 /schedules) include 11760Hz, 15575Hz Travellers With Disabilities 393 and 1413kHz; and for VOA (www Visas 393 .voanews.com) 11740Hz and 15195kHz. Women Travellers 396 Iran uses the metric system. A conver- sion chart is on the inside front cover. ACCOMMODATION Iran has a reasonable choice of accommo- dation, from tiny cells in noisy mosafer- serve mainly as a guide, see the boxed text, khanehs (basic lodging houses) to luxury p388 for details. rooms in world-class hotels. Camping, Dual-pricing or not, it’s possible to engage however, is almost nonexistent, and don’t in a bit of friendly negotiation, especially expect anything resembling an eco-resort. during the low season between mid-Octo- The Orwellian-sounding Ministry of Cul- ber and early March. Having said that, we ture & Islamic Guidance categorises most found that in most of Iran getting anything hotels and decides what they can charge. more than a nominal discount on an otagh Up until recently, in midrange and top- (room) seemed as difficult as negotiating an end establishments foreign guests have had end to the nuclear crisis. If dual-pricing is to pay more than Iranians for the same still happening, you could try asking for a room. However, this officially mandated discount for longer stays, or learn the Farsi practice of dual-pricing looked like it was numbers so you can point out the difference coming to an end as this book went to press, between local and foreign prices (most hotels which means the prices in this book might have Iranian and foreign prices displayed in © Lonely Planet Publications 369 DIRECTORY Directory PRACTICALITIES CONTENTS Electrical current is 220V AC, 50Hz. Wall sockets are the European, two round- Accommodation 369 pin type. Activities 371 Business Hours 374 All English-language daily newspapers Calendars 375 in Iran are government-run and avail- Children 375 able only in Tehran and some other Climate Charts 376 large cities. They include the Iran Daily Courses 377 and Iran News, both of which offer good Customs 377 international coverage; Kayhan Inter- Dangers & Annoyances 377 national, which gives new meaning to Embassies & Consulates 380 ‘hardline’; and the Tehran Times, which Festivals & Events 382 cleaves to the government line. Food 383 All Iranian broadcasters are controlled Gay & Lesbian Travellers 383 by the state. However, many Iranians Holidays 383 have access to satellite TV, including Insurance 385 many stations broadcasting in Farsi Internet Access 386 from North America. Legal Matters 386 On Iranian TV, channels 1 to 4 are na- Maps 386 tional, 5 and 6 province-based. Channel Money 387 4 has 10 minutes of news in English at Photography & Video 390 midnight. Most hotels have the 24-hour Post 390 IRINN news channel, which has a news- Shopping 391 ticker in English. Telephone 391 Time 393 Good frequencies for the BBC World Toilets 393 Service (www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice Tourist Information 393 /schedules) include 11760Hz, 15575Hz Travellers With Disabilities 393 and 1413kHz; and for VOA (www Visas 393 .voanews.com) 11740Hz and 15195kHz. Women Travellers 396 Iran uses the metric system. A conver- sion chart is on the inside front cover. ACCOMMODATION Iran has a reasonable choice of accommo- dation, from tiny cells in noisy mosafer- serve mainly as a guide, see the boxed text, khanehs (basic lodging houses) to luxury p388 for details. rooms in world-class hotels. Camping, Dual-pricing or not, it’s possible to engage however, is almost nonexistent, and don’t in a bit of friendly negotiation, especially expect anything resembling an eco-resort. during the low season between mid-Octo- The Orwellian-sounding Ministry of Cul- ber and early March. Having said that, we ture & Islamic Guidance categorises most found that in most of Iran getting anything hotels and decides what they can charge. more than a nominal discount on an otagh Up until recently, in midrange and top- (room) seemed as difficult as negotiating an end establishments foreign guests have had end to the nuclear crisis. If dual-pricing is to pay more than Iranians for the same still happening, you could try asking for a room. However, this officially mandated discount for longer stays, or learn the Farsi practice of dual-pricing looked like it was numbers so you can point out the difference coming to an end as this book went to press, between local and foreign prices (most hotels which means the prices in this book might have Iranian and foreign prices displayed in 370 DIRECTORY •• Accommodation lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY •• Activities 371 DIRECTORY breakfast and some places are not as fastidi- Mosaferkhanehs & Mehmanpazirs THE SEASONAL SWING ous as they could be, so watch out for those Iran’s most basic accommodation options There are two clear seasons in Iran, with a couple of other spikes. Low season starts in October telltale hairs on your pillow and don’t be are mosaferkhanehs (literally ‘travellers’ afraid to ask for fresh sheets. houses’), a dorm or basic hotel, and similar DIRECTORY and continues through winter until shortly before No Ruz (Iranian New Year, on 21 March) and the beginning of spring. From a few days before No Ruz, hotels in popular holiday destinations, mehmanpazirs. Both are very much male- such as Kish Island, Esfahan, the Caspian Sea coast and Yazd, are packed, and prices are at their MIDRANGE dominated. Standards vary somewhat but highest. No Ruz also marks the annual government-approved price increase, and after all the Most two-star hotels, and all three- and generally you can not expect private bath- madness of the 13-day holiday period is over you’ll find prices rise by about 20% from the winter four-star places will have a private bath- rooms nor spoken English. Some bottom- (low season) rate, and stay that way until October. There are a few exceptions. In summer prices room with hot shower and toilet, and end places won’t even have a communal along the Caspian Sea coast can skyrocket, while in hot places like Yazd and Bam prices fall with almost certainly a phone, fridge and TV shower. Prices start at around IR30,000 per demand. We quote high-season prices (not No Ruz prices) throughout this book. (sometimes with BBC World and Deut- bed in a noisy, grotty, male-only dorm. sche Welt). There might even be a reason- Simple, private rooms, perhaps with a sink, able restaurant, and breakfast will often be cost IR30,000 (US$3.30 or €2) to IR130,000. reception). Though this tactic was usually preciated. All accommodation in this book included. You’ll find toilet paper in most Useless old TVs are often added just because met with a look of ‘so?’ when we tried it. is presented in budget order, from cheap- places, though bath plugs are a long-shot. it allows the owner to rack up a higher price. The reluctance to bargain is partly be- est up; budget is generally up to IR220,000 Prices start at about US$15/20 for a single/ In a few cities, including Esfahan, some cause most cities don’t have enough ho- (about US$25 or €16); midrange is roughly double and go up to as much as US$60/85. mosaferkhanehs aren’t allowed to accept tels to create effective competition. Bandar between US$26 (IR242,000 or €17) and Like a 40-something boxer, a lot of places foreigners (see the boxed text, p325 ). In Abbas, Esfahan and Kashan are among the $US80 (IR746,000 or €54); top-end listings in this range charge rates that reflect a others, notably Bushehr, Khorramabad and worst, while notable exceptions include hover upwards of US$80. more glorious past than the beaten-around Yasuj, you need written permission from the Yazd, Mashhad and Shiraz. The ‘hundreds’ present; try negotiating. police to stay anywhere cheap. That’s easy of new hotels the government has prom- Camping The most charismatic midrange places, enough to organise through a 10-minute ised will take time to materialise, and will Iranians love tents, and you’ll see them and those worth aiming for, are the son- visit to the local Amaken – an arm of the mostly be in the midrange and top-end scattered through parks during the No Ruz nati (traditional) hotels.