MULLAN cHRoNIcLES VolumeNine,Issue #2 Winter 2002 The Mullan Military Roadfrom Fort WallaWalla to Plante'sFerry an access road along this proposed Stevens before he declared it to be This is l{ay's "cousin-cousin"aho from railroad to bring supplies and materi- the most direct route possibie.Noth- rtasdone a lot of researc/ton t/te Mullan als needed for construction of a raTl- ing really came of this idea of a military Roadbur is a driaingforce in OCTA- road, and to transport military sup- road from the to the Oregon-Caffirnia Trail Association. plies and troops to the northwest for Columbiauntil 1857,when the Yakima by Don Popejoy support of che thousandsof pioneers War and the Mormon War showed the who were flooding the area.In facc,the obviousneed for another military route, he Mullan Military Road Indian trouble that staned in 1853,was ocher than the , through was constructed by Lieu a result of this road being surveyedand and Oregon. tenant JohnMullan berween possibly built through their country. In M"y 1853, Mullan actually 1859 and 1862. Nter the road's WashingtonTeni torial Governor, started his survey,but becauseof the completion in 1862 Lt. John Mullan Issac I. Stevens, came up wirh the impending Indian crisis, the survey waspromoted to Captain.The Mullan original concept as a result of the work was canceled for several years. MiliraryRoad wasthe firsr engineered northern railroad exploration survey Then on May 15, 1858 Mullan was to construction road (done by both civilian and army of 1853-1855. Lieutenant John ordered begin of this work crews) to connect Fort Bencon, Mullan, who did the actual survey, road of nearly 625 miles, of which 125 on the Missouri River to design and construction work, was involved cutting through heavy for- on the Columbia assigned as his assistant. Four pos- ests and another 30 miles of cut and River, thus bringing the Great Plains sible routes rhrough the Bitterroots fill work. Numerous bridgeswere built closer to the . The were suggested; the one chosen by and some of the road had to be purposeof this militaryroad wasthree- Mullan was traveled severaltimes by (co ntinue d o n P ag e Tut o) fold: To surveyapossible railroad route between the two river ports, to build V^it frorn a Mullan! OnNewYears Dayl hadthe pleasure of hostinga visitto the museumin Superiorof CaitlinMullan. Caitlin is the granddaughterof Dr. Hugh Mullanand daughterof Dr. Fitzhugh Mullan.She was in St.Regis for the rededicationof the Mullanstatue withher family in 1989. Caitlinis a graduateof BrownCol- lege in Rhodelsland where she majoredin enviromentalstudies. Shehopes to makeanothertrip this Historian and speafrerextraordinaire Bill Weiheldescribesthe locationand way in a warmer climate and when zperationof the St. RegisFtoy acrzssthe Clarh Forh river to a fascinated she can stay longer. EEI aucintceat the2001 Mullan Day aalfralout. .-I 'zl MULLANcnnoNIcLES Volume Nine, Issue #2 Road - ,owedtlt e old Coluille ' tcUILLLILL'Yt)''";;;;i;"'"i/"n,lconti^le6"fromPageone) n n,--^ -L.-,., cultv,,.,,rt., cncamped,-.z.am,.o.ronnn itsirs northnorrh shore'shore. ,'-,orduroved. Cons creek crossing.From there rhev-L.-.,.-^ rra- virgin country, open timbef 3, 1859Started at 5 a.m.,and luicklv through Washington, onlv versed J,rnr ,omegradingnnaU,.,itairrgbiidg"torr..and gresslands, going in the general followed,for four miles, a good level .1n. .:varercourseswas requi."a. ;ni- direction of the present town of roureon rhe north sideof ReedCreek 'fhere, ,:ial r.ad oun, but in the Plummer, ." vallev. turning to the north, "o*pl"red and .,r.inrerof 1860,Mullan decided that Anorher quore comes from Ermai the road led rhrough a winding a dry :he road rhrough the marshy ereas Denham *ho ,ny, char "The Mullan graduallyascending valley, with ;outh of Coeur d'Alene Lake wasnot Road rvas norhing fancy, just a dirt waterrun(Colvillesprings).Twomiles pracricable.In early 1861Nlullan be- road r,vithdeep rurs... In placesthe fromthemouthofthisvalleywediscov- was built on the road.we eredasmallspringinalittiesideravine, The Mullatn ' Mititary railroad il '- | containlnglittle, but verycool water. :--,- - _ "- --l wouldsrraddie the railroad tracks wirh noaA hetped open upl I ln".'"ro. andsend my brothersborh June4, 1859The Roadrhen turns I this part of the coun'I u.ni"Jand aheadof us to stop any to the norrheastand led througha trainthat might be coming'" ,,arrowand ratherrocky canon (can- I tV b Settlement, I *':"0':*'\c some poin'l |il ;;p;"--'---.-..' iatiy durins tnel ,# i:* :::'i1?;;Iil|,Ji:T:l :'''j:"' I gold rush J"i'."days' I H?:1,*:.-iliT'JEffn"iffi:ofi, fo*owedrhe old I rhewidthorsnake I lanphase rwoof ,n".*,1I11"'??1 aewroure was biazed no,,r, lr coeur.1 $j":l"J,:TililffiJ[?""1",]"8 I :::"r:"'" byi:":::y- c,om' thesea- :ff::T,::1il:"r1tiiil1':i:;:;i';,;; I Ylrd?:'. .a d'NeneLake, thus avoiding zuna-tUOtDocwnmt +qai Gn speiling I binatiOn Of adVef' *onaifloodingandwideriverct:::1,"i: " *,:---- I sifigs wesucceed- along the southem route, as well as "ndquor.rareashe*rot.th"m;. "Y:,',-"11:,1; , -.rrr-,,^ ^- I :repairingparm or the original roure. , l:'j,Yi}- ]i'::-*r-,,^ I ed in getting ev' rhisRoad *", p,i-i,i'ln.b.,, u,,d :P',*Ti,')Hf*:":#J::::, ced'I eerythingr v LIL I I s aacrossv I (,.'r' ililf:":,T#ilff#ff il il: we1::lert on the 1st orJune'" Ir :l:Til:T:;ff::luu,"orherVlulran- ^?:'::*:#"i.:"ffi:"impre ;T:***ji ;:::il:J :,[1:?T: H::1?"tTil:,*t :Jffi:,'l3detour towards'lfifT:'{'ff:tt:th" *:t:::i::::::: ff'fJiti once bv rhe mititary shortly afrer its valleyleadin[towardstheSnakeRiver of a wet place which ;onsrrucrion, the road did pion.", th" :!:,t:"ii affords also a good road. The final almosrimpracrica^bl"^:::::3 -{: ,silroadsthroughthesameieneralarea roure i.r""n. ro is accom- we struck Dry ureek .rssurveyed.TheMullanMTlitaryRoad loadedWagons, ptishedbywindingaroundseveralbluff crossing' of the coun- at the usual points, and by no meansan easyone helped open up rhis part -. ,fry ro setclement,especially during June Z, 1859Following'.' the well ior*ugonr.Thewidth of SnakeRiver ;Lregoltl rush daysin Monrana,Idaho markedroad,we reached theTouchett ar rhe pr"r"nr high water is about350 ,incl\{hshingron. Th" Road was used River, and fording it without diffi- yards... ny combinationof adversi- " getcing every- lLrrmany decadesby rhe settlers and !! | ties we succeededin 'liarmersand in somecases, is sriil used ll *t bv rhe locals.An inreresringquore ll I\UYYf{ow wired!!WnElrc. ll June 5, 1859The ascenrto the "lt wasthis comesfrom Orland Scotr: ll *--u.^-z.imrsinezz:.e afdhtGbl ackf=r-lrf.rn.,- oot . net.ot ll table land exrending towards the roure fiom Walla Walla to Chenev ll ,,,, _^LL^*^ pelouseRiverisexceedinglydifficult, with will*i':EtrLL\rrr'rs'rrsar.-'"",:ll get to me. -;^-^-Please send-^-,ll which mv father and mocher, ll the bluffs being from 900 to 1,100 at cnanges andanoyourll rhcir t-amilv,had trken in 1879, ll address changes Your tt", high,verysreep. and consisring, temporary whichtime theyhad made ll emaii address to me soSo we ll ar thoseplaces where the rockdoes a *erclementacaplacecalledCrescen_rll keep ourOUf filesfileS uPup totoll nor ourcropfrom the surfaces,of can --- -r ^ ,near( lhcney. ln the summerof 1885 ll "ra,;:; ll sandvsoil. date.uaLtr' ll thcv :rqainfirllowed the old Mullan l[ l , rr June 6, lti59 After crossinga littls Road from Cheney to the Hangman ' Volume Nine, Issue #2 MULLANcgnoNIcLES Plartte's Fercy crossedSpoharle Riuer prairieridge we reachedthe top of a mile Rock Creek.This creeiris 15 f-eer The Mullan Road was divide, 700 t'eethigh, which atforded wide,has a rockybed, and is borderedby a very' good road. notwithsranding a luxuriant growth of largetimber. of great military and the deep, sandy portions of it. We June 10, 1859 We wenr to camp commercial impor- struck Corv Creek. Cow Creek con- on the head creeh of Willow creek tance in the early his- tains a small volume of water, which (Author'snote: Latah Creehhnora,n today as tory of the Far West runs in a very irreguiar bed with re- Hangman'sCreeh). Willow Creek flows spect to ics width. (Authors note: into the Spokane River about four and of Montanain par- Here at Cow Creek the road turns miles aboverhe old SpokaneHouse. ticular. lt senred for a northwest towards Colville, becom- TheValley orWillow creek(Hangman ing the ColvilleRoad, and rhe Mullan Vailey) is well marked to the easr by time as a link in East- Roadconcinues in a northeastdirec- disconnectedridges. The moscpromi- West communications. rion rowardsSpokane) nent peak is called Bark Nlountain point where a private company has June 7, 1859 After ascendingthe (Mount Spokane) and constitutes a establisheda ferry (Antoine Planre). easterlvbiuff, which wasonlyeffecred good landmark.I saw plencyof snow We encampedon the left bank of rhe by double teams,and even rhen with yet on its tops,and tojudge from rhat river (nearan Indian village) where prepa- great exertions to the animais, we circumstanceit must have consider- rations were made for the crossing. reacheda iofty plateau.Four and a half able elevation. "In retrospectthe Muilan Roadwas miles beforereaching camp we passed June 1I &. 12, 1859Traversing a of great commercial and milirarv im- a fresh water pond thickly covered gentle prairie ridge (Nloran Prairie) portancelo the eariyhiscorv of rhe Far with weedsand reeds...theonly wa- and which requiresa Corduroyto al- West in general and of lvlontana in tering place on rhis long, bad, tire- low wagonsto pass.The soil, which particular.It servedfor a rime asa link some scretch. I had today rwice an becomes very productive: high and in East-Westcommunications." His- opportuniry to see Pyramid Peak rich grass intermixed with flowers torian OscarO. Winther. (SteptoeButte) and took bearingson it. covers the hills, and grovesof luxuri- June 8, 1859 We saw "Big Lake" ant treesare docted all overthe coun- The Mullan Military Roadis marked try. We struck a sandy ravine, rvhich through the Spokanearea by pyramid We passed a fresh broughr us by gentle grade to the stoneshaped markers, and at Plantes water's edge of the SpokaneRiver at a Ferry there is a larger marker and water pand thickly severalpoints of inte"rest. Erel covered with weeds TlMPmtD'Orielfu Route to Montann and reeds...theonly Originally appearedon the front page areinformed by the representatives watering placeon this of the Monrana Pov (Yirginia Ciry), of parties owning a ferry on the November 25,1865; reprinred in the road.The citizens of Walla Walla Iong, bad, tiresome Mounta'ineer,The Dalles OR, Decem- will be actingwiseiy by "goingslow" stretch. ber 2. 1865). on this matter, unlessthey really wish to be a cat's-pawto rhe owners The machineryfor rhe steamerin- of ferries and roll bridgeson rhe (Sprague with pine tended for the navigarionof Pen Lake) beforeus its governmenrroad. It is pretty plain clad hills.The lake baresrhe name Big D'Orielle Lake is nearly finished, that one goodroad will answerfor Lake in all Indian languages;it has a and the enrerprisewill probablybe all the trade from this side, and if length of six miles and a width varying carried foward to a successful discoveriescontinue co be madeacross from 112to 314of a mile. The water is completion.On rhis poinr,we ob- the heads of FlatheadRiver, che not fresh,and hasa swampytaste. serve that parciesare mobing at MullanRoadcannotbecome rhe rhor- June 9, lU59 Passingover a low Walla Walla ro open the Mullan oughf'areunder any circumsccnces. divide,which is partiallycovered with Road,being instigared to do so,wc ninetimbcr. we struckin oneand a half lvt-l 4 MULLANcnnoNIcLEs Volume Nine, Issue #2 We won't giveup, hopeyou won't giveuP on ust We wifl continueto gearthe Chroniclesout.When you poy for o yearyou will get ofull four issuesno motter how monyyeors it tokes!

Formore information and/or tours We have started' a new ofthe MullanMilitary Road in Wash- The Mullan Chronicles is ington,please feel free to contact system to tell You when published by the Mineral Don Popejoyat (509) 4a3-3L74' youl membership is due.. County museum and llis- Don is on the Boardof Directorsof torical Society,,Post Office Ilote the number below the Oregon/CaliforniaTrail Asso- lUlT your addtess. lf it ls a + ciation. He is currentlYwriting a Box 533, SuPerior, followed by a numbet, it book entitled The ColumbiaRiver 59872, a non-proflt orga. shows the number of ls- Connection;Lewis & Clarkand the nizatlon. SubscriPtions sues you have coming; if OregonTrail,aboutLewis and Clark are $5 per 4 issues to cover in WashingtonSlate and usingthe ifs a i Vou are behind. BE printing and mailing. Com- Riveras a connection PATIEI{T WlT|{. US PTEASE Columbia puterized typ€etting bY the CorPsand the Oregon between Van, Wolverton.. FOR THERE IS HOPE! Trail. Two other books,a historyof Cathrlm (Kay) Stmmbo, &lior the MullanMilitary Road and history Cathryn (Kay) Strombo'&litot of the SpokaneRiver, are in process.

MULLAN CSNONICLES Mineral CountyMuseum Post Office Box 533 Superior, MT 59872