MULLAN Chronicles
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MULLAN cHRoNIcLES VolumeNine,Issue #2 Winter 2002 The Mullan Military Roadfrom Fort WallaWalla to Plante'sFerry an access road along this proposed Stevens before he declared it to be This is l{ay's "cousin-cousin"aho from railroad to bring supplies and materi- the most direct route possibie.Noth- rtasdone a lot of researc/ton t/te Mullan als needed for construction of a raTl- ing really came of this idea of a military Roadbur is a driaingforce in OCTA- road, and to transport military sup- road from the Missouri River to the Oregon-Caffirnia Trail Association. plies and troops to the northwest for Columbiauntil 1857,when the Yakima by Don Popejoy support of che thousandsof pioneers War and the Mormon War showed the who were flooding the area.In facc,the obviousneed for another military route, he Mullan Military Road Indian trouble that staned in 1853,was ocher than the Oregon Trail, through was constructed by Lieu a result of this road being surveyedand Washington and Oregon. tenant JohnMullan berween possibly built through their country. In M"y 1853, Mullan actually 1859 and 1862. Nter the road's WashingtonTeni torial Governor, started his survey,but becauseof the completion in 1862 Lt. John Mullan Issac I. Stevens, came up wirh the impending Indian crisis, the survey waspromoted to Captain.The Mullan original concept as a result of the work was canceled for several years. MiliraryRoad wasthe firsr engineered northern railroad exploration survey Then on May 15, 1858 Mullan was to construction road (done by both civilian and army of 1853-1855. Lieutenant John ordered begin of this work crews) to connect Fort Bencon, Mullan, who did the actual survey, road of nearly 625 miles, of which 125 Montana on the Missouri River to design and construction work, was involved cutting through heavy for- Fort Walla Walla on the Columbia assigned as his assistant. Four pos- ests and another 30 miles of cut and River, thus bringing the Great Plains sible routes rhrough the Bitterroots fill work. Numerous bridgeswere built closer to the Pacific Northwest. The were suggested; the one chosen by and some of the road had to be purposeof this militaryroad wasthree- Mullan was traveled severaltimes by (co ntinue d o n P ag e Tut o) fold: To surveyapossible railroad route between the two river ports, to build V^it frorn a Mullan! OnNewYears Dayl hadthe pleasure of hostinga visitto the museumin Superiorof CaitlinMullan. Caitlin is the granddaughterof Dr. Hugh Mullanand daughterof Dr. Fitzhugh Mullan.She was in St.Regis for the rededicationof the Mullanstatue withher family in 1989. Caitlinis a graduateof BrownCol- lege in Rhodelsland where she majoredin enviromentalstudies. Shehopes to makeanothertrip this Historian and speafrerextraordinaire Bill Weiheldescribesthe locationand way in a warmer climate and when zperationof the St. RegisFtoy acrzssthe Clarh Forh river to a fascinated she can stay longer. EEI aucintceat the2001 Mullan Day aalfralout. .-I 'zl MULLANcnnoNIcLES Volume Nine, Issue #2 Road - ,owedtlt e old Coluille ' tcUILLLILL'Yt)''";;;;i;"'"i/"n,lconti^le6"fromPageone) n n,--^ -L.-,., cultv,,.,,rt., cncamped,-.z.am,.o.ronnn itsirs northnorrh shore'shore. ,'-,orduroved. Cons creek crossing.From there rhev-L.-.,.-^ rra- virgin country, open timbef 3, 1859Started at 5 a.m.,and luicklv through Washington, onlv versed J,rnr ,omegradingnnaU,.,itairrgbiidg"torr..and gresslands, going in the general followed,for four miles, a good level .1n. .:varercourseswas requi."a. ;ni- direction of the present town of roureon rhe north sideof ReedCreek 'fhere, ,:ial r.ad oun, but in the Plummer, Idaho." vallev. turning to the north, "o*pl"red and .,r.inrerof 1860,Mullan decided that Anorher quore comes from Ermai the road led rhrough a winding a dry :he road rhrough the marshy ereas Denham *ho ,ny, char "The Mullan graduallyascending valley, with ;outh of Coeur d'Alene Lake wasnot Road rvas norhing fancy, just a dirt waterrun(Colvillesprings).Twomiles pracricable.In early 1861Nlullan be- road r,vithdeep rurs... In placesthe fromthemouthofthisvalleywediscov- was built on the road.we eredasmallspringinalittiesideravine, The Mullatn ' Mititary railroad il '- | containlnglittle, but verycool water. :--,- - _ "- --l wouldsrraddie the railroad tracks wirh noaA hetped open upl I ln".'"ro. andsend my brothersborh June4, 1859The Roadrhen turns I this part of the coun'I u.ni"Jand aheadof us to stop any to the norrheastand led througha trainthat might be coming'" ,,arrowand ratherrocky canon (can- I tV b Settlement, I *':"0':*'\c some poin'l |il ;;p;"--'---.-..' iatiy durins tnel ,# i:* :::'i1?;;Iil|,Ji:T:l :'''j:"' I gold rush J"i'."days' I H?:1,*:.-iliT'JEffn"iffi:ofi, fo*owedrhe old I rhewidthorsnake I lanphase rwoof ,n".*,1I11"'??1 aewroure was biazed no,,r, lr coeur.1 $j":l"J,:TililffiJ[?""1",]"8 I :::"r:"'" byi:":::y- c,om' thesea- :ff::T,::1il:"r1tiiil1':i:;:;i';,;; I Ylrd?:'. .a d'NeneLake, thus avoiding zuna-tUOtDocwnmt +qai Gn speiling I binatiOn Of adVef' *onaifloodingandwideriverct:::1,"i: " *,:---- I sifigs wesucceed- along the southem route, as well as "ndquor.rareashe*rot.th"m;. "Y:,',-"11:,1; , -.rrr-,,^ ^- I :repairingparm or the original roure. , l:'j,Yi}- ]i'::-*r-,,^ I ed in getting ev' rhisRoad *", p,i-i,i'ln.b.,, u,,d :P',*Ti,')Hf*:":#J::::, ced'I eerythingr v LIL I I s aacrossv I (,.'r' ililf:":,T#ilff#ff il il: we1::lert on the 1st orJune'" Ir :l:Til:T:;ff::luu,"orherVlulran- ^?:'::*:#"i.:"ffi:"impre ;T:***ji ;:::il:J :,[1:?T: H::1?"tTil:,*t :Jffi:,'l3detour towards'lfifT:'{'ff:tt:th" *:t:::i::::::: ff'fJiti once bv rhe mititary shortly afrer its valleyleadin[towardstheSnakeRiver of a wet place which ;onsrrucrion, the road did pion.", th" :!:,t:"ii affords also a good road. The final almosr impracrica^bl"^:::::3-{: ,silroadsthroughthesameieneralarea roure i.r""n. ro snake River is accom- we struck Dry ureek .rssurveyed.TheMullanMTlitaryRoad loadedWagons, ptishedbywindingaroundseveralbluff crossing' of the coun- at the usual points, and by no meansan easyone helped open up rhis part -. ,fry ro setclement,especially during June Z, 1859Following'.' the well ior*ugonr.Thewidth of SnakeRiver ;Lregoltl rush daysin Monrana, Idaho markedroad,we reached theTouchett ar rhe pr"r"nr high water is about350 ,incl\{hshingron. Th" Road was used River, and fording it without diffi- yards... ny combinationof adversi- " getcing every- lLrrmany decadesby rhe settlers and !! | ties we succeededin 'liarmersand in somecases, is sriil used ll *t bv rhe locals.An inreresringquore ll I\UYYf{ow wired!!WnElrc. ll June 5, 1859The ascenrto the "lt wasthis comesfrom Orland Scotr: ll *--u.^-z.imrsinezz:.e afdhtGbl ackf=r-lrf.rn.,- oot . net.ot ll table land exrending towards the roure fiom Walla Walla to Chenev ll ,,,, _^LL^*^ pelouseRiverisexceedinglydifficult, with will*i':EtrLL\rrr'rs'rrsar.-'"",:ll get to me. -;^-^-Please send-^-,ll which mv father and mocher, ll the bluffs being from 900 to 1,100 at cnanges andanoyourll rhcir t-amilv,had trken in 1879, ll address changes Your tt", high,verysreep. and consisring, temporary whichtime theyhad made ll emaii address to me soSo we ll ar thoseplaces where the rockdoes a *erclementacaplacecalledCrescen_rll keep ourOUf filesfileS uPup totoll nor ourcropfrom the surfaces,of can --- -r ^ ,near( lhcney. ln the summerof 1885 ll "ra,;:; ll sandvsoil. date.uaLtr' ll thcv :rqainfirllowed the old Mullan l[ l , rr June 6, lti59 After crossinga littls Road from Cheney to the Hangman ' Volume Nine, Issue #2 MULLANcgnoNIcLES Plartte's Fercy crossedSpoharle Riuer prairieridge we reachedthe top of a mile Rock Creek.This creeiris 15 f-eer The Mullan Road was divide, 700 t'eethigh, which atforded wide,has a rockybed, and is borderedby a very' good road. notwithsranding a luxuriant growth of largetimber. of great military and the deep, sandy portions of it. We June 10, 1859 We wenr to camp commercial impor- struck Corv Creek. Cow Creek con- on the head creeh of Willow creek tance in the early his- tains a small volume of water, which (Author'snote: Latah Creehhnora,n today as tory of the Far West runs in a very irreguiar bed with re- Hangman'sCreeh). Willow Creek flows spect to ics width. (Authors note: into the Spokane River about four and of Montanain par- Here at Cow Creek the road turns miles aboverhe old SpokaneHouse. ticular. lt senred for a northwest towards Colville, becom- TheValley orWillow creek(Hangman ing the ColvilleRoad, and rhe Mullan Vailey) is well marked to the easr by time as a link in East- Roadconcinues in a northeastdirec- disconnectedridges. The moscpromi- West communications. rion rowardsSpokane) nent peak is called Bark Nlountain point where a private company has June 7, 1859 After ascendingthe (Mount Spokane) and constitutes a establisheda ferry (Antoine Planre). easterlvbiuff, which wasonlyeffecred good landmark.I saw plencyof snow We encampedon the left bank of rhe by double teams,and even rhen with yet on its tops,and tojudge from rhat river (nearan Indian village) where prepa- great exertions to the animais, we circumstanceit must have consider- rations were made for the crossing. reacheda iofty plateau.Four and a half able elevation. "In retrospectthe Muilan Roadwas miles beforereaching camp we passed June 1I &. 12, 1859Traversing a of great commercial and milirarv im- a fresh water pond thickly covered gentle prairie ridge (Nloran Prairie) portancelo the eariyhiscorv of rhe Far with weedsand reeds...theonly wa- and which requiresa Corduroyto al- West in general and of lvlontana in tering place on rhis long, bad, tire- low wagonsto pass.The soil, which particular.It servedfor a rime asa link some scretch. I had today rwice an becomes very productive: high and in East-Westcommunications." His- opportuniry to see Pyramid Peak rich grass intermixed with flowers torian OscarO. Winther. (SteptoeButte) and took bearingson it.