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MULLAN Chronicles Volume Six Winter 1995 Number One Thenorthern Overlandroute Ro Oregon

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MULLAN Chronicles Volume Six Winter 1995 Number One Thenorthern Overlandroute Ro Oregon MULLAN cHRoNIcLES Volume Six Winter 1995 Number One TheNorthern overlandRoute ro oregon In Mav this year we receivedsome mate- rials from avid Mullanite Robert Dunsmore.Includedwas an arriclethat originallywaspublishedintheJuly 1950 Pa c ifi cIV o rth w es t Quarterly entitled "The Northern OverlandRoutein 1875:Jour- nal of HenryLueg." This piecewaswrit- ten by C.S.Kingston and concernedthe diarymadebyLueg, aGermanimmigrant, ashe traveled wesr with a group headedfor theMontanamines. Lueg,Kingstonwrites, was37when hemade thetrek duringhis sixthyear of PanoramaofHelm4 Montnra Territary,in 185 5, drawn by G.R.Bechler. living in the United States.He hadput in regardingthe nature of his grief." againsthosdlelndians,thepassengeff were rwo yearsof military serviceand knocked Kingston writes fufther: "The expedi- requiredto provide themselveswith arms. aroundawhilebefore arrivinginSt. Paul, tion wasorganized by a'so-calledCap- Lueghad a repeating Spencer carbine and he writes, adding "He decidedto go on tainDa-,y'(Lueg'swords)who agreedto to the Far \fest, ashe saysin an opening carry passengerswith 50pounds of bag- paragraph,because of 'bad times and gagefromSt.CloudonMay25,butwas I n" also had a dog sorrow' which he had experiencedin St. held up by badweather and did nor leave I whichhe took along Paul, but givesno hint in the narrative untilJune 25.To protect the expedition I I as a companion-a I "medium-sized" Wclgon rutslnfo the pclst I I naf-Newfoundland Rediscweringthe first federally bwilt rodd in the West dog he called Jeff. By Andrew Tarica overthe Continental Divide atotal of I 524miles, and served as an overland y journeyalongthe historic Colt army revolverbut hadno occasion connectionberween Forr'Walla \X/alla, MullanRoadbeganinadusry to usethe weapons.He also had a dog \ilashington,on the ColumbiaRiver cornerofaused bookstore in whichhe took a1<lngas a companion-a and Fort Benton, Montana, on the "medium-sized" Colorado.There, I cameacross an an- half-Newfoundlanddo g MissouriRiver. hecalledJeff. tiquehandmade map from thelate 19th lffeeks lacer,map in hand,drysage "The wagonsinwhich cenruryofthe territorial Nonhwest. Davy's77 crackledunder my bootsas I walked passengers The mapwas intriguing. It hadno rodevrere drawn by teams along a piece of nearly forgotten of four oxen, major roads, and listed only a few and the one to which Americanhistory in easternWashing- Luegwas scatteredtowns andwestern forts. assignedcarried eight men ton. Mt friendScott DeSimone andl andtwowomen." lndian nationsandmaiorrivers were hadjusttaken a four-wheel path over The clearlylaid out, aswas a solitarywagon parry of mostly Americans, asmall,barrenhill that leddeepinside which road-called the Mullan Military but alsoincluded a few Ger- anocean of rolling, bro-n scablands. Road-that exrendedacross the unex- manssuch asLueg, someScandina- At the crestof the hill, we sawan vians ploredland norrh ofthe Oregon Trail. andFrench, were bound along abandonedpioneer home that had Completed in 1862,it stretched thenorthern routethat would eventu- "Wagon (See ruts " on page two) (See"Northern" on page four) MULLANcnnoNrcLEs Volume Six, Number One Wagonruts still show the way been invaded and taken over by nalMullanRoad. So off we srerre.l mv mansv'loua..o*'offfJ"i'"i ""#iTf:till*'*o,rryhi.dden be- ;,.t'.S"*,"1,1[',1"ffiiotlund the eerie-home, behind a rundown hind scrubbyhills". offto tt . r;a" of Desimoneand l alsofound our ex- windmill, was the vintage Mullan the main rtad, behi"d b;;a:;;; pecationsfultyrealizedfollowingMul- Roac-inallitsbeauty,"3{t.ttrtt.v. fences,with wago" *tr ;;.;.il; iltf.;r;dffip*irrr.smafltown "Our firstconfirmed sighting," " said into thedisr"rr..] of Avon, Montana,we rurnedonto scott, who like I, was a *c-hingToran In otherplaces,.'we saw only frag- Ji* ,.o"i t."a;"g ;"., M"llan pass- ad'reffure' ments.ofth'e gtig-T"l ,o"d. F'o, .i- o.igi.r"1*"gonrutsleadingtheway. wehikedalongtheroadforawhile, -^ ampleriustnorch#v"ll"yahgrgi; ?t; p;r'h ;.:;;"d"alty overthe taking note of oid *"gor, *r, urri *^y il crossesthe Touchet'RirTerContinental Difide. At the top overgrownbushesthatcoveredmuchnear the town of Prescott.Under- DeSimoneandlwererewardedwith ofthepath'Itwashotandsunny,andneath-the new, .on.r.r. bridgewe ,p.ou.,rl"rviewslookingdowninto thepungent smell of din permeated found the half-buri.d,*ooJ!r, ,"- ,th. *id.-open valleycarved by rhe thedryair' mainsof the bridgeMullan andhis MissouriRiver. crewhadbuiitnea"rlyl4oyearsago. Thoughthe MullanRoad erse^,"I':l::3_tllllinsoversomeonesprlvateDroDerty'so\1'eeventu- never Itwasthewinterof 1853-5-twhen achieved"thepopularity of the Or- aily headedb".k ,o'-y truc\ and Mullan-who was parr .f I;;; .gor,_r.il (mainly becausespring continued on . through_anumber of stevens'transconrin."la ruro"Jl*- ij?od, *"rhed treesover much of its tiny towns where the Mullan Road vey-first discovereJa wagon roure path),it did b;;;;;r"vel routefor To thedry, 134years later,Desimone and t teft :HlH*'"*::?:';f"tominersand seaff/eto retracetheir route,Armed with our ,."?$:.',:'f;ffiff:i:*":";t: campinggear, maps,and fly rods-ratherthan il.t*:*:::k.,fii*-r,t: wagons,oxen and shovers-wespent a week X:lH,T:iff:":.$:;,1,:::lil On this baCk fAads miSSiOn iq !h. mid-1850sand the mines of Idaho'sSilver Valley in 1880s. passedduringthefrontierera-Benge, overthe ContinentalDivide in what As for the g.og.;phy of the road, Lamont, Spangle, the roadledon.- isnowMontana. MJ;;-;;-";;;?. routein his Construccionoftheroadbeganon Askedbyy\eSwndqOregonianin 1861bookR tpiiii;c"nsywctionof June.25,1859, when." gto.tp-of September1383, ro..fi.o.r?t nr aMiliaryRooap*i"nBentontoFort "p- air- proximately 190Unite-d Stites soi- .o*ry, Mullanexplained he was a bit Valla tflotto.H. *-r., "our road diers-under the command of an .ronhofthep.o."r.iyotmmnp;h."h. involved 120miles of difficult tim- ber-cutting iTbi'i?:128-year-oldcaptainnamed"pproach.dthethrJeforLro?rh.rr&r- . the remainderwas John Mull"t:b.gg1: blazinga trail souri,GallatinandMadisonrivers. either thr6ugh an open,timbered easttroFort \7alla\falla. ."Herewas_an open piain that en- counrry,oroveropen, rollirgriri..;; the dan 134 years later, It took ^ I" ro,rghiy55 daysforthe DeSimoneandileftseatcletoretracetain"bl.d-.toi"f.ri"ifr.nockyMoun- rangefor a distanceof 40 or 50 earlysettle.;##.rp.crorstotravel theirroute.Armedwithourcampingmiles,"liesaid."Lookingal*ortdrr. th.',niir" i;;gth;f the road. gear'maPsandflyrods-rath.rfh"" westwardfrom the pol", whereI DeSimoneandliookfive. wagons'oxenandshovels-wespent c.ro-ssedthelvlissouri,Inoticedmarked A fishable route to the pasr aweek on this backroads mission. differ-encein the range, tho"jhi Although;;i rh.--"i., go"1,fo, on the road thatif I couldgetthrJughth.-."r"1y, ""di building"thetvtutlannoadwas"rot.ans- In the barrenand unforgiving high andstrike 1iy *^trr?o,rrr" t(. po.r f.3.."il;;;;lhe pacific,it Columbiafro,.'th.r."th.;;gh*;ll-"f *:::f -.--"-gtrythatscret.hedbei*ein 1", orrly.rr.doni.f*thirp*G;. Walla\TallaandlakeCoeurd'Alene, definedvalleys or canyons,,["r ti* In M"y of raoo,,r.ra", the direc- wefoundseveralstretches ofthe origi- mightbe the prop...o.rrr.to trrke. t;o" of lr,l'^j.rc."ig. iilake,3oOnew Volume Six, Number One MULLANcnnoNIcLES on partsof CaptainMullan's Road dition, he immediately immonalized Nearthe end of Kautz' 57-dayjourney the fly fo r fut.rr. g.rr.i"tions to revere on the by sticking it in his baseballcap. Mullan Road,he wrote about his final day of The flies we fished with^were mostly Renegades,Grey\Wulffs and a fishing which taok placeon the North Fork of light blue mayfly called a Coeur d'Alene Special.At onepoint of the the Coeur d'Alene River: "Campingin a small lateafternoon, as rhe rainbeat down, the fish becameextremeiy active. I've opening in the timher. Some of the officers heardthis pan of the day iet-erredto as "Magic Time, " when the sunis nearly tried fishing, but the stream at this point setandthe fish comealive in a magi- calfeeding fr enzy.as theyrise throu[h seems nearly destitute of fish." thethresholdthat separates their world of water andour wtrldof air. recruitsleft St. Louis by steameron fishing, but the $ream at this point Hooking into apesky 1 #inch fish, the Missouri. and arrived at Forr seemsnearly destituteof fish." I marveled at its golden color and Bentonabout two months later. Arriving atthe Norrh Fork of the largeevenly-spaced spots. DeSimone At the urging of lvlullan, who was Coeur d'Alene on adri zzlv dav more wasnearby when I reeledthe creature eagerto havehis road testedbefore he than130 years later, DeSimone and I in. "Man, they arejust sobeautiful, " proclaimedit finished,the troops then hopedfor better luck. At a local res- he said. "Even if I wanted to kill movedtoward\flallaWallaonthetrail. taurant calledthe Evaville Resorr (for- them,I don't think I could." August V. Kautz wasa member of merly abrothel namedthe SnakePit), I waspleased to witnessthe birrh that expedition,and he recordedhis wehooked up with ownerJoePeak, of a full-blooded catch-and-release experiencesin adiary. OnJuly 1,2,he the self-proclaimedresident fisher- fisherman. wrote abouta fishingtrip hetook with manof the river. Leavingthe 'We river that night, I re- two fellow soldiersand a member of askedhimabout the bestfish- called something I had read in the the Blackfeettribe. The group trav- ingspots. His advicewas reassuring. Morning Oregonian,dated Aug. 28, eiedby wagon for four hours, from "The thing about fishing the Coeur 1862,which waswrirten bythe first Fort Benton-over
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