MULLAN cHRoNIcLES Volume Six Winter 1995 Number One TheNorthern overlandRoute ro oregon

In Mav this year we receivedsome mate- rials from avid Mullanite Robert Dunsmore.Includedwas an arriclethat originallywaspublishedintheJuly 1950 Pa c ifi cIV o rth w es t Quarterly entitled "The Northern OverlandRoutein 1875:Jour- nal of HenryLueg." This piecewaswrit- ten by C.S.Kingston and concernedthe diarymadebyLueg, aGermanimmigrant, ashe traveled wesr with a group headedfor theMontanamines. Lueg,Kingstonwrites, was37when hemade thetrek duringhis sixthyear of PanoramaofHelm4 Montnra Territary,in 185 5, drawn by G.R.Bechler. living in the United States.He hadput in regardingthe nature of his grief." againsthosdlelndians,thepassengeff were rwo yearsof military serviceand knocked Kingston writes fufther: "The expedi- requiredto provide themselveswith arms. aroundawhilebefore arrivinginSt. Paul, tion wasorganized by a'so-calledCap- Lueghad a repeating Spencer carbine and he writes, adding "He decidedto go on tainDa-,y'(Lueg'swords)who agreedto to the Far \fest, ashe saysin an opening carry passengerswith 50pounds of bag- paragraph,because of 'bad times and gagefromSt.CloudonMay25,butwas I n" also had a dog sorrow' which he had experiencedin St. held up by badweather and did nor leave I whichhe took along Paul, but givesno hint in the narrative untilJune 25.To protect the expedition I I as a companion-a I "medium-sized" Wclgon rutslnfo the pclst I I naf-Newfoundland Rediscweringthe first federally bwilt rodd in the West dog he called Jeff. By Andrew Tarica overthe Continental Divide atotal of I 524miles, and served as an overland y journeyalongthe historic Colt army revolverbut hadno occasion connectionberween Forr'Walla \X/alla, MullanRoadbeganinadusry to usethe weapons.He also had a dog \ilashington,on the ColumbiaRiver cornerofaused bookstore in whichhe took a1

: fr-.' r{h -.G '>i *'.. f. {-- - . ;.3 *t:-{!-L ThisIB65 psnorama of Helena, Montana, was discoveredin family memorabiliaby Mrs. AnnetteBroadbent allylinkupwiththeMullanRoadat the mouth of the Yellowstone, Atthistimetherewasasteamboata ForrBenton. Kingston wrote, the military escort shorrdistancebelovrForrBentonthat Lueg givesa detailedweather and left the train. hadleft St.1 ouisMay 25 with \eavy g"ogr"fliicreportofthegroup'strav- "AccordingtoLueg'slog,"headds,freight and 90 pass€ngersand was els.AtFonALercrombie(tttinn.)the"theycoveredgglmilesfromst.Cloud unabletomakethelastfewmilesto posrcommander ordered 1OO soldiers to Fon Bentonin 85days; they were its destination. io the travelerswho had been 56days onthe roadand spent 19 days "At Fort Benton there was more joinedbysomeotherprivateparties"r.o.t atdifferentplacesalongtheway."He trouble with Captain Davy. The iorsafety. continued: peopleof one wagon had consumed DissatisfacionwithDavyerupted "On August 26 Lueg notes that iheprovisionsallottedtothemforthe duringasojournatForcR*-rrdh"t theyweretrivelingonthe (I',Iorrhern trip, and D^uy wasabout to sellthe th* ar*mywas building a ne$/ post. Overlandroute)tliatCaptain(fames wagonandoxenanddeclaredthathe Kingston writes: Lue{ saysthit he L.) Fisk laid out in t862. . . At this was go_ingto leavethese passengers *'aslrunkenandcare6ssandthatan time the buffalo that had been so behind.ApparentlyDarywasoutof artempt was made to elect a new scarcein Dakota appearedin large money, as Lueg writes that he had leadei.But apparentlythe trouble herds,andmanywerekilled-againa horrowedfromseveralmembersof blew over, for on the 2+ih (ofJuly) the welcomeaddition to the daily rations. the parry.Finally, aftermuch excitied ernigrantscontinued on'their way The train had beentraveling in one talliing, punctu_atedwith threatsof undirDavy'smanagemenr"encoun- longline,butnowitwasdecidedthat violelce,thedifficultywasadjusted, teringtheusualhaidshipsofprairie themorecompactarrangementofa andtheentireparrystartedofftoward t.".'"[. OnAug. StheyariivedatFort doubleline would be safer. . . HelenaCicy. Stevenson on" the t{irso.rri River "On (Sept.)l3they met a detach- "They were now on the Mullan h3r.y where they saw steamboaisrravers- ment of 25 mounted soldiers.They S""4 and met man/,. many ing and had a chanceto speakto wereapproachingFortBenton,and freightwagonsontheirwaytoForr trarrelersfromthewest white peopleweie becomirigmore Benton,wheremerchandiseandma- "One of these,"Lueg writes, "the nrmerous. chinery wouid be.loadedfor Helena Voila,returningfromtlieupperriver "On the tZth of Septemberthe City_andtheminingcamPs.Freight was carryi.rg TOOp"rr"r,g.rr who expeditionreachedFortBenton.lueg haulingwasdonewithoxteams,and brought nevrsthat tim., *".r. badin saysthat the placecontained six large someof thesewagons were drawn by them"iningcounrry,andsomeofthe and many small stores,also half a asmanyast2o\gn.Theycouldtravel mendecid"edtostayatSrevensonanddozen r"ioonr. The fort was at the nowwithafeelingof safety,asthere do government*ork . . . headof navigationon the Missouri, wasno_ longer any dangerfrom Indi At Fort Buford which saron the andwhen*Jt"r*as lowsteamboats ans.Along the way were log cabins north sideof the Missouri opposite haddifficultyingettinguptheriver. andatleastoneblacksmithshop;they Volume Six, Number One MULLANcrlnoNIcLES Mullan Roadto Montana'scapitaL city

*l's-_---...-: r-{lrr- i'-:'*- r..I- lriirl Ei*i:-:*.,:t'o-' .-;-:;;Tq ;4. of Srnsex, England, ntece (and adopted daughter) oJ Bob Stanley, who discovered gold in Last Chance Gulch met familiessetting out on their way displeasurein campby their return, andtroubles.Steps weretaken against east:and asthevcame nearerto Hel- becauseof the uncommonlv sharp thispresumptuous and unjust demand ena,smallirrigatedf.arms were seen; anddeep-seatedsmellwhichthestink-anda delegationfrom the train pre- in many casesthese farms were of- catspraysonwhomevercomesinitssentedthe whole matrerpublicly in fered for sale-an indication of un- proximityofcontact.' Helena.The procedureexcited strong satisfactoryeconomiccondition . . . "The experienceof the pary asit protests among the inhabitants of "At ,a neq/ four-com- approachedHelena aretold graphi- HelenaagainstDavy. parryarmypostbuilt mainlyof adobe callyinLueg's narrativeand may best "The suit of Davy againstthe Ger- bricks, sometwo dozenpassengers be recountedin his own words.The mansefilers was set for \fled.. Oct.Z. leftthetraintotakeconstructionjobs. German families campedat Green- but waspostponed to Thursdayand Carpentersreceived $ LOO amonth in horn Gulch about12 miles from Hel- then to the comingMon., Oct. 7. In greenbacks,and masons,$125. At enaforashortrest,butweredetainedthe meantimevariousrumors circu- thattimeinMontanaadollaringreen- f.or t4 days by more trouble with lated about the notorious Da*ry; backswas w orthT S-centsin gold.Six CaptainDary; amongthem, one that he had disap- othermenfromthetraintookacon- 'Just assoon asthe train was in pearednotwithstanding that afew of cractto cut wood for the fort at $2 a camp, there appearedthe leaderof hisfriends stood bail forhim for $2500. cordingold. the train, P.B.Dary, togetherwith Many peoplefrom whom Dar,yhad "In somepiaces the Mullan Road the sherifffrom Helena,and made a borrowedmoney during the j ourney wasextrem.iyrt..p,andheredetours demand for $512.00levied on the werewaiting for him in HelenaCity. on longer and easiergrades had been train asmoney promisedfor leading FinailyDavy'szuit tookplace onMon., built by private individuals to whom the train overthe plains.This demand Oct.7;it wascontinuedTuesday and the Montana legislaturehad granted wasearnestlyconsideredby ourpeople \ffednesdayevening the verdict was the right to chargetoll. Freighters andrefusedasirregularandunjust...renderedin favor of the Germans. with their heary loads used these Towardeveningofthesameday "October 5, Saturday.During the roads,buttheDar"Tparty, withlightly the sheriffappearedin campwith20 pastweek I havepaid out consider- loadedwagons, kept to the original mounted and armedm.en and drove able money in Helena asI havede- route on which there were no toll ofI +0 oxen as security for Davy's cided to move to Oregon with the charges.Eleven dayswere spent on demandandbroughtthemtoHelena other Germans,and so I purchasedan the wayto HelenaCiuy, and about the the next day andturned them over to ordinaryriding horse, including saddle, onlydisagreeablethingthathappeneda man to keep.This provoked great bridleand spursfor $80 inpaper money centeredaround Lueg'sdog, Jeff. As unrestand fearamong the Germans which passeshere for 75-centsfor a Luegtells it, 'my faithful dog and his who were destinedfor Oregon,and dollarin gold.For abuffalo robe I paid companion found astink-cat (skunk) who now felt themselveshampered in Jrr.611 snlrtsI ' DJ.watcn t reDarr' b/.5u. I ondkill.d it, which causeda furor ani thejourney. They hadvisions of costs (See "Northern" on page set,en) MULLANcgnoNIcLES Volume Six, Number One

"l{orthern... " from page 5 "Wagonruts ..." .fro* pzge 3 cashedacertificate of depositon aSt. seewhy Montana is calledBig Sky someareas of IdahoandMontana, I-90 l'aul bank for $309 foiwhich I re- Country. andthe rail line foliow thesarne moun- ceived$280. As we approachedthe endof our tain passesand couleesthat Mullan "FTclenaCiuy is a closeiybuilt city jor.rrney,a signindicated it wasonly originally choseberwe en1859-62. andlies in aquite narrowvalleywhich 10 miles to Forr Benton. I thought As we pulled into the small.sleepv opens on a vailey bench, 6-8 miies back to an encounterwe had earlier city of dort Benton, the ro-""11.d 'wideand 12-15miles long; itwidens on the road with a man namedSteve birthplace of Montana,traces of the out towardthe eastandnortheast and Mullan, owner ofthe RoseLake Gen- community's rich past-which in- is coursedthrough by severallarge eraiStore in Idaho'sSilver Valiey. cluded a visit by Lewis and Clark streams.This valley hasvery pictur- After telling him our reasonfor during their 1805voy^ge to the Pa- esqueflrrroundings. The principal busi- driving through histown-to retrace cific*could be seenail over town. nessstreet in Helena mns southerly the Mullan Road-he looked at us A hotelbuilt in 1882,which used ilong asmall creekand contains noth- with a puzzled, confused grin, and to boast the finest accomodations ing but storesandsaloons of everysort. asked,"Vhyl" It was a good ques- between Minneapolis and Seattle, "Businessat presentis very poor in tion. I guessthe answeris, well, why stoodvacant along Front Street.Be- 'We Montana, of which Helena Ciry isthe not? had a great time. It was hindthe dilapidatedbuilding, the old- principal trading place.The revenue basicallyatrip with apurpose:A road est bridge in the statespanned the frorn the minesis verysmall. Cloth- trip to find a "road." mighty Missouri. At the far end of inq, cattle,horses and provisionsare And though the Mullan Roadhas town, ruins of the fort recalledthe .rery cheap.There is limie demandfor beenlargely forgotten, somepeople first permanentsettlement in Mon- iabor.Drinks in the saloonare SGcents. still believeit hasan important place tana. And a statueof Caot. Mullan Haircut $L,shaves25

MULLAN CnnoNIcLEs N{ineralCountyMuseum PostOffice Box 533 Superior,MT59872