MARCH 1959 FORTY CENTS

In this issue: NATURE PHOTOGRAPHY In Nature's VOL. XXXV NO. 3 MARCH 1959 RAYMOND CARLSON, Editor GEORGE M. A VEY, Art Editor JAMES E. STEVENS, Business Manager Wonderland LEGEND Willis Peterson is our honored guest this month with a feature we think you'll find interesting and unique. Armed PAUL FANNIN 2 with a truck load of cameras and photographic equipment, ARIZONA CHOOSES REPUBLICAN BUSI­ he conducts us into the very heart of Nature's vVonder­ NESS MAN AS CHIEF EXECUTIVE. land and points out many things of beauty and of unusual BrLL W1LL1Ai\IS MOUNTAIN iVlEN 6 appeal to Nature lovers. His subjects vary from birds and UNIQUE CIVIC GROUP OF WILLIAMS butterflies, lichen and mushrooms, to deer and ring-tailed TAKE ANNUAL RIDE TO PHOENIX RODEO. cats. Pete's nature studies herein in the past have been some NATURE PHOTOGRAPHY 8 of the most popular features we have ever had. Notable V ERSAT!LE PHOTOGRAPHER-NATURALIST contributions to these pages have been his studies of bea­ EXPLORES WONDERLAND OF NATURE. ver, quail, owls and antelope. Now he comes up with a panoramic study of all of Nature's tableau in sparkling FoRT Bowrn 28 color. HISTORIC OUTPOST OF OLD WEST PROPOSED NATIONAL MONUMENT. He makes his living as a news photographer for the ARlZOKA REl'UJlLIC of Phoenix, the state's largest news­ PAUL FANNIN paper. His vacations from the turmoil of a busy news Governor of Arizona room are spent in patient and watchful waiting in some Nature blind far out in the hills, desert and mountains. ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION vVe know of no l10bby so satisfying. If you are interested Wm. P. Copple, Chairman . • Yuma in follmving in his footsteps, what he says of Nature L. F. Quinn, Vice-Chairman . Miami Photography will be very enlightening and educational. Frank L. Christensen, Member Flagstaff This month we have a feature on old Fort BO\vie, Milton L. Reay, Member ...... Safford down in Cochise County. In its days of glory, troops at John J. Bugg, Member . . . . . Florence Fort Bowie subdued the Apaches and made tra,·cl safe for \Vm. E. Willey, State H wy. Engineer Phoenix pioneers on America's southern route to the Pacific Coast. Justin Herman, Secretary . . . . . Phoenix A bill has been introduced in Congress to make Fort Bowie a National Monument, a bill worthy of the serious consideration of our lawmakers. This glorious outpost of ARIZONA HIGHWAYS is published monthly by the Arizona Highway the \Vest should not be forgotten. Department a few miles north of the confluence of the Gila and Our new governor, Paul Fannin, is now in office and Salt in Arizona. Address: AR IZONA HIGHWAYS, Phoenix, Arizona. $,.50 per year in U.S. and possessions; $4.50 elsewhere; 40 cents has been since the first of the year. W c think you would e~~h. Second Class Postage paid at Phoenix and at additional like to mcct ·him personally and so we have a few pages mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Copyrighted, 1959, devoted to him to which ,ve arc pleased to refer you as by the Arizona Highway Depar~ment. a thoughtful and friendly introduction. And, in conclusion, it is a pleasure to have you meet ~ 115 the Bill vVilliarns Mountain i\1cn of vVilliams, Arizona, Allow five weeks for change of address. one of the most unusual civic groups we know of. Each Be sure to send in the old as well as the new address. spring when \Villiams, at the foot of Bill vVilliams Moun­ tain, is shivering in the clutch of winter, a group of citi­ zens of the community, start their annual trek to take part COLOR CLASSICS FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS in the Phoenix J. C. vVorld Championship Rodeo Parade. Tms IssuE It's a long and hard ride but the Bill vVilliams Mountain 35111111. slides in 2" mounts, , to 15 slides, 404, each; 16 to 49 slides, 35¢ each; 50 or 'l/lore, 3 for $1.oo. Catalogue of pre·viom slides issued !'den make it each year regardless of the weather and they available on request. Address: A.RIZONA HIGHWAYS, Phoenix, Ariz. always have a lot of fun. If you join the cro,vd at the WL-15 California Sister Butterfly, cov. 1; WL-16 Striped Skunk, Rodeo Parade in Phoenix this year ( March 1 2 to be exact) cov. 2; WL- 17 Sonoran Raccoon, cov. 3; WL-18 Badger, cov. 4; you'll see the Mountain Men ride by and you'll agree WL-19 Abert Squirrel, p. 13; WL-20 Ringtail Cat, p. 14; WL-2 1 with thousands of others they arc show stoppers ... R.C. American Bison, p. 15; WL-22 Mule Deer, p. 15; WL-23 Prong·­ horn, p. 15 ; \VL-24 Texas Horned Lizard, p. 16; WL-25 Spiny FRONT COVER Swift, p. 16; WL-26 Gila-Monster Lizard, p. 16; WL-27 Leopard c ~uFORNIA S1sTER BvTTERFLY-H eteroc/,;,-oa cnliforuicn-This but­ Lizard, p. 16; WL-28 Gray Fox, p. 17; WL-29 Sweetheart Moth, terfly is found throughout the Somhwest and is noticeable by its p. 18; WL-,o Daritis Moth, p. 18 ; WL-3 1 Hoary Bat, p. 18 ; \VL-32 erratic fl ight. It is often found resting on logs and stones. In t his Porcupine, ·p. 18; WL-33 Red Spotted Purple, p. 19; WL-34 Tiger position it slowly opens and closes its wings as if to sun them. Swallowtail Butterfly, p. 19; WL-35 Coati, p. 19; WL-36 Desert OPPOSITE PAGE Tortoise, p. 19; WL-37 Tree Fungus, p. 20; WL-38 Fly Mushroom, p. 21; WL-39 R ussula Mushroom, p. 21; WL-40 Lichens, p. 21; STRIPED SKt.,;NK - Mepl.1itis 'l!lep/.Jitis - The skunk is probably the best known of all woodland animals. Its den can either be a WL-41 Lichens, p. 2 1; WD-134 Golden Daisy, p. 22; WD-135 burrow in the soft soil or in the rocky ledges of the canyons . Water Hyacinth, p. 22; WD-136 Sandverbena, p. 22; WL-42 For food it \,·ill choose small rodents, bird's eggs, grubs and insects Oregon Grape, p. 23; WL-43 Merriam Turkey, p. 24; B-58 Arizona and also the leftm·ers from a camper's table. In moderate climatic Cardinal, p. 24; B-59 W estern Bluebird, p. 24. regions of the Southwest he does not hibernate. ONA

BY CHARLES FARRINGTON, JR.

"Paul Fannin may not be a politician, but he sure that those decisions and actions are the right ones." knows how to make folks like him!" Such a desire on Fannin's part no doubt harks back That's how a cotton farmer in Pinal County described to the days of his boyhood when, each morning before Arizona's new governor after watching him in action going to school, he hauled milk to the creamery from his during last fall's intensely fought election campaign And family's five-acre dairy ranch - located at what is now the sentiment was obviously shared by thousands of others considered downtown Phoenix, just a few blocks from in the Grand Canyon State because, in winning his first the Westward Ho Hotel. Later, expanding his youthful bid for public office, Fannin not only triumphed over business enterprise with the purchase of an old truck, he formidable political precedent by becoming the fourth spent his summers hauling cantaloupes to the packing Republican governor in Arizona's forty-seven years of sheds on a contract basis. statehood, but also stemmed a tide that was running Following his graduation from Phoenix Union High strongly against his party in other states. School, Paul Fannin attended the University of Arizona Born fifty-two years ago in Ashland, Kentucky, Paul for two years, and then transferred to Stanford Uni­ Fannin is unable to claim the rare distinction of being an versity, where, as an economics major, he was graduated Arizona "native." His parents moved to Phoenix when he in 1930 with a degree in business administration. was only ten months old, however, and his life since then The first Fannin business was a vehicle and harness has been richly flavored with the rugged individualism shop located at the present site of the Adams Hotel and dogged determination to succeed that is so char­ Parking Garage in Phoenix. The "vehicle" part of the acteristic of this frontier state. business, of course, referred to wagons and buggies. The Thomas Fannin, the governor's father, typified the operation was later moved to the west side of to-wn, and thousands of Americans who, in ever-increasing numbers, was subsequently expanded to include farm equipment, have moved their families to Arizona in search of a hardware, and general merchandise. Paul was a working healthier, happier, more bountiful way of life. But the member of the family business during his summer vaca­ hardships which were encountered by the pioneering tions and, upon completing his education, he felt the Fannins of Kentucky no longer beset the new Arizona impact of severe economic crisis as a result of the depres­ citizen. Because such men of vision and faith dared to s1011. meet the challenges of an undeveloped territory, Ari­ With his customary determination and perseverance, zonans now enjoy the blessings of unparalleled oppor­ however, Paul worked along with his brother, Ernest, to tunity and prosperity. surmount the threat of total disaster. By prevailing upon Today, Governor Fannin's most absorbing vocational their customers to keep the equipment they had so ld and avocational interest is the building of Arizona. And, them, making payments as they could, the Fannin brothers in great measure, it was this desire to contribute to the held on to their business. Later, they diversified their fullest possible realization of the state's economic and efforts by taking on bottled gas and appliances; and, when social potential which was responsible for his decision to the expense of shipping the emptied gas bottles to Cali­ seek political office. fornia to be refilled proved unreasonable, Paul and Ernest "As a very young man," Fannin often reflects, "I installed their own butane plant, with the result that costs discovered Arizona's magnificent heritage, and saw for to their customers were reduced by more than fifty myself the first glimmerings of its promised . expansion. per cent. Through the opportunities and incentives provided here, The ultimate success of such ingenuity and skill was I was able to go into business and, by hard work and not achieved without considerable privation and many determination, to make that business succeed. And I've setbacks. Present and former Fannin employees remen~­ watched my children grow proudly in the wholesome ber well that the Fannin brothers often went without atmosphere of this state. their own personal necessities in order to meet their pay­ "So I feel a deep obligation for the chance in life rolls. But the bills were paid and customer service was which Arizona has given me. And because I know that maintained at a high level. the decisions and actions of government will determine Fannin's Gas and Equipment Company grew into an whether or not that same climate of opportunity and operation which served, primarily on a retail basis, all achievement will prevail for my children and my grand­ fourteen counties of Arizona. Still later, Paul and his children, I want to do all that I possibly can to see to it brother expanded into the commercial fertilizer business,

PAGE THREE • ARIZONA HIGH"\VAYS MARCH, 1959 and competent management techniques in the administra­ stationed with his wife and two children in Japan. A third tion of state affairs. And, since he is a businessman by son, Bill, is a freshman at the University of Arizona; and training, he chose to seek elective office on the strength Linda, the Fannins' only daughter, is a sophomore at of that capacity. Scottsdale High School. The Fannin theory of efficient business practice is Despite his undisputed qualification to administer far from an impersonal, dollars and cents approach, how­ Arizona's governmental affairs, and his keen understand­ ever. He advocates the compassionate regard for people ing of state problems, Paul Fannin has no illusions with and their basic human rights in the formulation of every respect to the magnitude of the responsibility that rests administrative decision. Relating this attitude to Arizona, upon his shoulders. Like his father, who passed away in he points out that, while the migration of new citizens is 1945, Governor Fannin has a passionate belief in the of great significance to the state, it is children who consti­ limitless potential of his state. But he knows that the tute Arizona's real future. Statistics seem to lend credence achievement of the objectives of expanded economic de­ to his thinking. In 1957, Arizona's population increased velopment and personal opportunities depends upon the by 50,000. There were 3 1 ,ooo births and only 8,000 talents, the skills, and the energies of many people-hence, deaths, indicating that the "baby crop" constituted about he is not averse to seeking the best possible advice and one half of that increase. "Our obligation," the governor assistance from all sources in carrying forward his pro­ declares, "is to see that jobs and opportunities _are available grams of government. here for those children when they reach adulthood. Only He knows, too, that the world of politics is rampant in this way can we provide a real and enduring answer with problems and considerations which are, even yet, to the challenge of building Arizona's future." somewhat mystifying to him. And, while he has great In both governmental philosophy and physical ap­ respect for this institution by which Americans express pearance, Paul Fannin may be described as a "Lincoln­ their views on the issues and philosophies of government esque" figure. His height and leanness were accentuated offered by opposing parties and candidates, his devotion after seven months of campaigning, during which he lost to the job of helping to build Arizona is such that he over thirty pounds. He neither smokes nor drinks, and his flatly refuses to compromise that objective in order to seemingly boundless energies depend almost entirely upon satisfy the partisan purposes of one group or another. daily "malt breaks" and large quantities of fresh fruit Fannin recalls countless experiences during the cam­ juice for between-meal nourishment. His sharp features paign which demonstrated to him the pointlessness of easily radiate warm good humor or serious contemplation, "politics for politics' sake." Once, in Tucson, where he depending upon his concentration at the moment. People was walking the streets shaking hands, he went up to one who work closely with him find his enthusiasm for any gentleman, extended his hand, and announced, "My name job almost overpowering, so intensely and rapidly does is Paul Fannin. I'm running for governor." And the he think, speak, and act. startled stranger, looking at him with blank indifference, Always an aggressive and thorough worker, Fannin's responded, "Why?" Arizona's first family principal source of relaxation is golf, which he now con­ "I think that's the essential question which must fesses with little concern has been practically forgotten precede all public service," Fannin says. "The glory of since he entered the political arena. Both he and his family politics, if it comes at all, is short-lived. Its real rewards have always been sports-minded, though, and Paul played can come only from the successful accomplishment of a and even extended their operations into Mexico. "I had reached a point in life," he says, "when I could baseball in high school and, later, was one of the pitchers basic purpose designed to benefit the people - all the The understanding of administrative responsibilities have started to take things a little easier. Certainly, my on two state championship softball teams which played people - who, after all, are the ones being served. If a which Fannin brings to the governorship is combined wife urged me to do that very thing. And, after all, I in the national championships in Chicago. man who engages in politics, serves in public office, with his recognition of the competitive nature of industrial had promised her that we would do a little traveling after When not engaged actively in his own business, Paul doesn't seek to advance principles in which he devoutly development, which is fast becoming Arizona's most I passed the fifty-year mark. Of course, what she didn't has found ample time over the years to participate in believes, he has no business imposing upon the people's thriving area of economic strength. And his earlier busi­ suspect - and what I didn't realize then myself - was that practically every worthwhile civic and charitable effort time and trust." ness experience equipped him well to cope with the the traveling we were going to do would be over the in Phoenix and Arizona. He is a past president of In Paul Fannin's case, those principles revolve around demands of such competition, for it was a daily challenge highways and byways of Arizona in a political campaign!" the Maricopa County Better Business Bureau, a former the economic and industrial development of Arizona, the in the hardware, farm equipment, and home appliance Close analysis of Paul Fannin's basic temperament employer member of the Employment Security Com­ state which has given him a lifetime of opportunity, lines which Fannin's sold. The heaviest competition, of and personality clearly refutes any suggested inconsistency mission's Appeal Tribunal, and a past chairman of the crowned by its highest elective office. He respects the course, came when the Fannin brothers began to dis­ between his business background and his present role as Industrial Development Committee of the Phoenix Cham­ traditions of self-reliance and individual resourcefulness tribute bottled gas, in which field they vied with the Arizona's chief executive. In fact, he regards government ber of Commerce. An active church member - he is a upon which Arizona has grown to its present stage of largest oil companies in the world, as well as with a as the biggest and most important business of all, because, Methodist - Fannin is also a Rotarian, and a member of development. And he is pledged to the active pursuit of corporation owned by one of Arizona's wealthiest families. as he describes it, "all citizens have an investment in gov­ the B.P.O. Elks, the Phoenix Executives Club, and the a climate of government in which new economic oppor­ Eventually, because it was a small enterprise com­ ernment, and their interests warrant the same care and Thunderbirds. tunities may be opened to all citizens. peting with ever-growing larger companies, Fannin's Gas protection by sound and skillful management as is given Paul Fannin was married in 1934 to the former Elma His door will always be open - to that Pinal County Service was sold to Suburban Gas Company and Cali­ to the investments of individuals in private businesses." Addington, a Phoenician and member of a pioneer Ari­ cotton farmer, to the Tucson businessman, to the Cochise fornia Spray Chemical Company, with Paul and Ernest So firmly does he adhere to this concept of public zona family. Together with their four children, the County cattleman, to the miner from Globe, to the manu­ retaining ownership of the company's properties, which service that he overruled the emphatic counsel of several Fannins have always been a closely knit family, so when facturer from Phoenix, and to the thousands of just plain they lease to the two firms. of his most astute political advisors by waging his cam­ the head of the household began his campaign for gover­ people who make up the ever-growing population that is It was this transaction which marked a turning-point paign on the promise to give Arizona "A Sound Business nor it became sort of a "team" project. In addition to her rapidly turning this once sparse desert state into a teeming in Paul Fannin's life. Following the sale of the company, Administration." While aware of the constant tendency normal duties as a wife and mother, Mrs. Fannin found oasis of opportunity for people everywhere. he spent a year directing a reorganization program. But of some to misinterpret the concept of American business herself operating something tantamount to a campaign And if, by chance, a citizen who comes to call on then, with his business interests reduced to only the as it relates to the principle of free enterprise, and to headquarters annex in her own home. the governor in his office finds the high-backed leather present Fannin Brothers Industrial Development Enter­ distort the legitimate role of business in a free economy, The governor's oldest son, Tom, a Phoenix real chair temporarily vacant, he can safely assume that Paul prises, Paul's active career seemed destined for a radical Fannin nevertheless argues that Arizona's hopes for con­ estate salesman, is married and has two daughters. Bob Fannin is just out talking to the people-finding out how change of pace. tinued progress depend upon the application of judicious Fannin is a second lieutenant in the Air Force, now they can do the best possible job for Arizona.

PAGE FIVE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH, 1959 ach year in early January there is a in parades and at rodeos in many parts of the state; but which he has made himself. Possible bags of buckskin burgeoning of beards in the town of the one big event each year is the long ride to Phoenix. hold flints, steel, tobacco, castor bait for luring beaver, \Villiams which, more surely than The announced objectives of the Mountain Men are good medicine charms, and other prime necessities of life the appearance of the robins, heralds printed on the title page of their magazine, which is pub­ for the trapper. And of course no Mountain Man is ever the coming of spring. In many Ari­ lished once a year. These obj ectives are as follows: without his skinning knife. The Bill Williams men have zona communities if twenty men "To oromote the traditions and customs of the West­ made their own knives, usually from old files, and they stopped shaving, it would be scarcely ern Pioneers and, more particularly, the Mountain Men are long, heavy, and exceedingly sharp. noticeable; but in Williams it is noteworthy, for the who explored the territory of the \Vest during the period The shaggy ponies which carry the Mountain lVIen twenty faces going to weeds belong to some of the of western expansion and early development of the on the long ride from Williams to Phoenix are not by most prominent citizens of the area, who are preparing United States; to emulate the costumes and appearance any means scrubs or casual acquisitions. Each one is a for the high point of their year-the annual ride of the and to further the general knowledge of accomplishments tough and durable denizen of the high north country Bill Williams Mountain Men from their home base at of the Pioneers of the West and Mountain Men; to per­ around Williams and must be able not only to carry a Williams to Phoenix, where they rendezvous at the petuate the lore, memory, and romance of the Moun­ man or pack over the rough trail to the desert but also Jaycee World's Championship Rodeo. tain lVlen and Pioneers." must be able to eat and thrive on anything from dried Among the members of this group can be found In line with their objectives the Mountain Men wear buffalo grass in the high country to desert forage in the representatives of a diversity of professions and occupa­ uniforms of buckskins which are authentic copies of the southern part of the state. The cold of the northland tions. There are restaurant owners, motel keepers, ranch­ garb of the old trappers of Bill Williams' time. These causes their coats to grow long and shaggy, and the ers, oil distributors, filling station men, and garage men; distinctive fringed garments are made from either deer Mountain l\ilen do .not attempt to curry them. As are their the professions are represented by a physician and a den­ or elk hides obtained from animals ,vhich unwisely ap­ masters, these ponies are rugged individualists, and during tist; other members work for the natural gas company, peared in Mountain Men's gunsights during hunting sea­ the ride there is always a great amount of lively activity the telephone company, the Navajo Ordnance Depot, son in the Bill Williams area. Since there are very few in the early morning before every IVIountain Man succeeds Coconino County, and the town of Williams; there are good tailors of buckskin left in the country, most of the in convincing his trusty mount that it is time to hit the two builders, a bartender, and a welder; one member is a Mountain Men, with some help from their squaws, have trail again. Coconino County Supervisor, and another is the local . made their own suits. One of the reasons for choosing the month of lVlarch Justice of the Peace. The fur hats favored by the group are of coonskin, for making the ride to Phoenix is that for most of the This group of men, organized in the fall of 1953, coyote, fox, wildcat, or mountain lion hide. men March is the best time of the year in which they conducts monthly business meetings throughout the year, Because the old flintlock rifles required that the can afford to take two weeks off without neglecting their sponsors dances and steak fries, and is active in many other iVlountain Men carry black powder instead of cartridges, businesses. Storv bv ways. Their familiar buckskin suits are frequently seen each of the modern 1Vlountain Men carries a powder horn Please turn to page t/.J irty-fmrr Scott Havden

Chow for the hungry riders Mountain 1vlen in the Phoe11ix Rodeo Parade Photographer-Naturalist Willis Peterson in action Part of Arizona's bison herd (>

p' u - r n HY Story and Photographs by WILLIS PETERSON louds of dust billowed skyward as a lacerated sod. A meteoric dust plume streamed after the creativeness which can be expressed with as much feeling. But there is more involved t han just t he mechanical grizzled bull churned the earth with lunging buffalo, then began to settle. T o capture on a piece of film the shyness of a squirrel, recording of an image throug h a lens. T he picture must his hoofs. In the next fit of temper I sat down weakly . Rumbling still echoed in the the indescribable hue of a flower, the devotion of a bird have a vibrant composition so it wi ll live. It has to say he heaved up chunks of sod w hich cany on beside me. Less encumbered by camera equip­ to its offspring, is a fascinating, exhilarating, even a this is spring or t his is .fall , love or youth, the forest c:>r rained down in long dusty streamers. ment, my friend had managed to sprint ahead. Out of t he spiritual experience for n:e. . . the desert. N ature pictures should portray a mood with Our enthusiasm was cooling rapidly, corner of my eye I glimpsed that he had just bounded Living plants and w ild creatures, all lovely 111 their t he subject as its star performer. though we had stalked the animals over the rim. own way, create an infinite world of color, form, and T o present this mood the object must be taken in since early lllorning. Our best photographic strategy had "You can stop now, they've gone," I called hoarsely. design. A patch of fur can become an animated forest context or natural habitat. O nly in this way does the crea­ gone awry as we were now in full view after topping The bison, North America's most unpredictable citizen enhanced by its graceful figure, a blob of feathers ture keep his poise to produce a harmonious portrayal. the canyon's rim. They were only 300 yards away, and animals, were now about a mile away and beginning to can become an avian sprite a rrayed in striking plumage, H ow many times have campground animals and birds to make matters worse, the breeze had swung around, graze placidly . a hit of color can become an exquisite fl ower, bespeaking been pictured on crude picnic benches, disposal cans, or leavi ng the herd downwind. All stared sullenly at us. Passing from the dramatic to the ridiculous, w hile of soli tude in a shady w oodland. car fenders; H ow incongruous with nature. None of the immense, shaggy heads made a. move to attempting to photograph a flock of ducks, I unexpectedly There are delicate patterns of old lace to be derived If it takes ingenuity to produce a photograph, one nuzzle at t he p rairie grass. Flattened by an erratic wind, found myself doing a ponderous water ballet. With one from a leafy branch. A rhy thm ical repetition of fanciful must use ingenuity. If it takes several hours of waiting, the heeled over verdure revealed a snaking line of buffalo, foot in a row boat and with the other searching for a design lllay he fashioned from a common tree fungus. one must wait. It it takes manual la bor to erect a b lind fin ,1 ll y disappearing under a distant ridge. solid hummock, I vainly juggled holders, telephoto lens, Multi-hued and impressionistic modern paintings m ay he or pack equipment into a primitive spot, one must work. Suddenly, in a spectacular, ominous swirl of hoofs, and camera. Such an artless recital ended as you might discovered on rocks splashed by vivid lichens. Replicas If it takes s pecial equipment, one must have it. In short, a cow charged. She rushed toward us head down, tail up. well expect, providing the fish with an orchestra view of of still-life art lllaV be seen in a cluster of succulent berries it is a highly specialized fi eld, and takes one who is per­ At this sinister twist of fate, we frantically began a drenched, unrehearsed finale. clinging to a vine. sistent and devoted to making a pictorial which is artistic disengaging t he Big Bertha from its tripod. More reminiscent of a cartoon character than a nature The forest, the meadow, the pond, the desert are as w ell as meaning·ful. Then the inevitable happened- the herd fo llowed, photographer, these incidents nonetheless happen in this stao-es wherein Nature's daily act of life is dramatized But actually \ ve are getting ahead of our story . Suc­ breaking into a wild stampede. fascinating work of hunting with cameras to record t!H~usands upon t housands of times. Each scene with its cessful nature photography must be an alchemy of in­ More than 200 animated, rumbling tanks, a thousand natural history . particular setting is a potential pictorial study of subtle trinsic art values, camera t echniques and a knowledge of flailing hoofs roared across the plain. Portraying nature has been my interest and avocation c harlll and harmonious beauty . botany, zoology and ornithology. The prairie trembled, shuddered, actually shook, as for a number of years, though by profession I am a press Though never the easiest, it is certainly a self-satis­ W ith A rizona's many cli mates and variances i n alti­ the beasts thundered nearer and nearer, w hile we ran photographer for Arizona's largest daily, the A rizona fying form of photography. You are on Y?ur own to tude, w e have an excellent opportunity to observe nature headlong for t he canyon. R epublic. News photography can be plenty exciting and create y our picture. Move nght, then left, raise the cam­ firsthand. A ctually , it is these very altitude ranges, coupled T he anilllals w ere almost upon us, when the lead nature photography can too, but in an entirely different era or lower it, close the diaphragm or open it. In each w ith climatic conditions, ,,·hich offer the key for s tudy. cow veered aside. T he herd cut back and ground past on lllanner. Each complements the other. act y ou build composition and strengthen it as .an artist The krn·est deserts to the highest mountain peaks have mill\\'heel hoofs, fi lling the air with fl ying stones and Few fields in the graphic arts offer a chance for might do by using his brush. been divided into life zones by students of natural history.

PA GE N l i\ E • AR IZO i\ A HIGHWAY S • i\ l A ll C H , l 9 j 9 Setup for bird study Water holes make excellent locations

In each zone there are certain plants which are usually birds, which have to be stalked or shot from a distance, indicative of a particular altitude. The interdependence I change to a 20 inch f-5.6 Bausch and Lomb telephoto. of temperature, rainfall and such plants-many of which This lens is also mounted on a 3 ¼ x4 ¼ Speed Graphic. offer generous forage-with animals and birds living in As can be imagined, standardization of these three cam­ the same altitude range, broadly constitutes a life zone. Migrating ducks in the Salt River Valley eras to the same film size is imperative. Different size Consequently, we find at given altitudes much the same holders for each camera would confuse matters to the flora and fauna throughout the State. stately Grecian columns. In the fall, their golden leaves Surrounding Phoenix, the deserts of the Lower and extent that one would give up nature photography and Arizona is one of the few states where five distinct make handsome pictorials. Upper Sonoran Zones, extending into the Transition Zone, chuck everything into the nearest canyon. life . zones exist. From the hot deserts they march up­ South from Flagstaff lies the Mogollon Rim, most of present their own peculiar forms of life. Cacti predom­ The fourth camera is a 35mm Exakta, equipped with wards, starting with the Lower Sonoran. The Upper which lies in the Canadian Zone. The Rim is a huge escarp­ inate with a multitude of species challenging the photog­ an f-5 500mm Astro lens. This I find perfect for bird Sonoran, the Transition, the Canadian, and the Hudsoriian ment leading across Central Arizona into New Mexico. rapher to portray their grotesque branches and delicate slides. Of course, different focal length lenses can be follow. Even a hint of the sixth, the highest, the Alpine Aside from scenic grandeur, many photographic subjects blossoms. intetchanged at a moment's notice for any occasion. Zone, embraces the top of the San Francisco Peaks, near are available, particularly fungi. Fallen and decaying Among the desert's fascinating birds is the Gambel's Small wildlife present a considerable problem to the Flagstaff. forest vegetation along with moist conditions make this quail, a bird any camera fan would be happy to shoot. photographer since they are constantly moving about, A survey of these zones and their plant and animal one of the best areas for mushroom hunting. Ranging from The cactus wren is another unique bird. The largest of and most of them prefer shade to bright sun. By attracting associations is of the utmost importance to one endeavor­ red to green, these fungus growths develop into intricat-c the wrens, it prefers to build its nest in low cactus animals with food, it is far easier to bring them to the branches. The jaunty Arizona cardinal, dweller of arid ing to photograph nature. By keeping these ranges in shapes, creating fascinating subject material. Clinging to camera where sunlight is available or where supplemen­ lowlands, is a handsome resident, decked out in vermil­ mind in step-ladder form, it becomes much easier to deter­ rocks and tree trunks are the multi-hued lichens. Thoug·h tary light can be utilized. ion headdress and black mask and bib. mine where such associations may be sought. profuse in almost every climatic zone, they are more pre\­ All wildlife have definite foraging habits. If a squirrel In these hot regions, the night hours are prone to be For example, in a whirlwind tour of Arizona we find alent in these higher altitudes. should pass by your camp in his quest for nuts and other on Mingus Mountain, in the Canadian Zone, an excellent Traveling east from the Mogollon Rim, we enter th ~ more popular for much of the wildlife. Consequently, most desert animals must be observed and photographed food, there are nine chances out of ten that he will pass area for observing and photographing the Abert squirrel. White Mountains, the upper portions of which lie in th ·: by at nearly the same time the following day, by the Rocky Mountain mule deer abound here too, but are Hudsonian Zone. Here, during the month of Augus:· . during their nocturnal sojourns. The Arizona gray fox, skunk, badger, ringtailed cat, and kit fox favor the cover same trees, by the same rocks. Such regular habits are somewhat wary. Arizona's showiest array of mountain wildflowers are 011 also displayed by most wildlife when leaving and return­ Anderson Mesa, a little lower in altitude, and in the display. Particularly colorful are the scarlet penstemom of darkness. All the species of kangaroo rats, pack rats, in fact, most of the rodents, also seek the cooler portions ing to the nest or burrow. Transition Zone, offers an excellent habitat for pronghorn and Indian pinks. Huge areas of lavender asters ming!: After observing these behavior patterns it is a fairly antelope. To the east, under the Anderson Mesa rim, in a of the night to carry on their activities. with fields of white Flea bane daisies. Wet meadows tucked simple matter to "cut the trail" with tasty and aromatic special range controlled by the Arizona Game and Fish Such a gamut of wildlife, from these tiny, nocturnal, away in the spruce forests yield yellow Alpine sunflowers. bait. This I do by laying a string of crumbs at right angles Commission, buffalo continue to find the open prairie as it At Sheep Crossing, on the Little Colorado, clumps of desert creatures to pronghorn antelope, deer, and bison, to the apparent pathway, with a large pile of crumbs used to be. yellow and blue columbines beckon with their photo­ mammoth in comparison, requires a considerable amount heaped against a suitable photographic background. The North Kaibab Plateau, in the Hudsonian and genic petals. of special photographic gear, much of which revolves When the creature crosses this line of bait he beo-ins Canadian Zone, contains the largest herd of Rocky Southern Arizona presents a somewhat different about adaptations of different focal length lenses. In Mountain mule deer in Arizona. Many are quite tame and ecological aspect. In this portion of the State, large unre­ In this respect, I use four cali1eras, three of which are to investigate. a few moments he discovers the la:ger can be readily photographed from the highway. Flocks of lated mountain masses are isolated from each other bv 3 ¼x4¼ Speed Graphics. One Graphic houses a 127111111, cache, and thus stays on to partake of this windfall. iVlerriam turkey also seek the solitude of this forest to rear low, hot deserts. The Chiricahua, Huachuca, and Santa f-4. 7 Ektar lens. This short focal length lens is handy for Though unknown to himself, he cooperates with me to their young. Rita Mountains are good examples. Because of this isoh­ flowers and other closeup still-life. The other camera is the fullest extent. Another fascinating animal is the Kaibab squirrel, tion, and the influence of adjacent semi-tropical Mexico, equipped with a r 35mm, f-4. 7 Elctar lens with a shutter This procedure works equally well for nocturnal found nowhere else in the world. Oak thickets harbor there are a number of plants and creatures which live in synchronized for electronic flas·h. This "Speed" is operated animals as for those active in the daytime. Various species, the dusky grouse, a very elusive game bird. A number of these mountains, but are not distributed farther north. for birds and animals where fast shutter action is needed. of course, require different types of bait. species of wild berries can be discovered as well as wild­ The coati, ocelot and jaguar are strictly tropical animals, When impossible to set the camera in a close position, I . _D~coying wildlife by plac~ng bait for them is intrigu­ flowers. yet they occur within these Southern Arizona mountains. substitute an f-5.5, 240mm Tele Xenar, also sxnchronized mg m itself. In my own experience, I have had to use all The Kaibab supports some of the largest aspen groves The Coppery-tailed Trogon, and a number of other birds, for electronic flash. the wiles of a fur trapper to induce reticent animals to 111 Arizona. The gleaming white trunks remind one of are also restricted to these ranges and Mexico. For antelope, deer, bison, other large animals and my camera, paying out as tribute graham crackers for

PAGE ELEVE N • ARIZO N A HIGHWAYS • .MARCH, 1959 * squirrels, aspen bark for beaver, salt for porcupines, NOTES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS canned dog food for skunks, cantaloupe rinds for coati OPPOSITE PAGE and chicken necks for badgers and foxes. ABERT SQUIRREL - Sciurus aberti - Inhabiting the conifer forests Enticing birds to the camera with food is somewhat of Arizona, the Abert squirrel can be heard barking, but is very more difficult. Some exist on a limited type of diet, par­ difficult to find and much more difficult to photograph. Here he sits on the floor of the forest and drinks a refreshing draught ticularly the insectivorous birds. The best method to of rainwater. * · attract them is by feeding tables where an assortment of FOLLOWING PAGES tidbits may be offered. With convenient photogenic RINGTAIL CAT-Bassariscus astutus-Found in all of the Southwestern perches for the birds to alight on near the table, it is states, the ringtail cats are so shy that not many people know them. possible to make photographs with natural backgrounds. They make their home in cliffs along desert canyons. Their favorite food consists of rodents and large insects. Much of their time is A more rewarding way, however, is locating their spent sleeping in the semi-darkness of their den. nest of young and waiting until the parent birds arrive to * feed their little ones. Instinct or mother love, or call it AMERICAN BISON-Bison bison- The bison once roamed all of the what you will, is strong enough to make the bird recon­ North American continent but were hunted to such an extent that they almost became extinct. Since then the herds have been sider any hazard. Even with the camera inches away from protected and kept in special ranges. Bulls will often weigh more the nest, few birds will willingly abandon their young. than a ton and stand 5 to 6 feet tall. Both male and female have horns. Practically all fauna must drink at some time, and * thus waterholes become extremely effective means to MuLE DEER-Odocoileus hemionus - These deer are called mule because of their large ears which resemble a mule's ears. During the obtain pictures of both animals and birds. The shooting summer months these deer browse on high, rocky ridges and when site should encompass only a small area. The camera fall comes they move down to the open forests. The common angle, then, need not be changed to cover one side or the running gait of the mule deer is to spring from the ground with all four feet at the same time. other, minimizing the chance of losing a picture. * PRONGHORN - Antilocapra americana - Pronghorns are nervous This type of photography indicates the camera must and shy creatures but exceedingly curious. vVhen any new thing is he prefocused, preferably through the groundglass, the spotted on their range they will invariably come to investigate. only absolutely sure method to show what will be con­ If a pronghorn is frightened the two white clumps of hair on his rump stand up like flashing rosettes, then he springs away. This is tained in the picture. The approximate length of the sub­ a signal to other antelope that danger is near. Their fawns, usually ject should be assumed and the camera focused so this twins, are born during May and June. assumed size is centered proportionately. * TEXAS HoRNED LIZARD-Prynosom a cornotzmz - Horned lizards are Animals and birds quickly sense that the camera is found only in the western part of the United States and Mexico. an inanimate object and soon regard it as part of their They feed on insects, especially red ants. These unusual lizards environment. I've often had fledgling birds alight on the may squirt a thin stream of blood from the corners of their eyes when frightened. Some puff up when angered; others flatten camera as they leave their nest, to say nothing of a male themselves. * quail that used the top of my camera for a look-out while SPI NY Sw1FT-Sceloporus jarrori - Swifts make up a large part of his mate drank at a waterhole. the common lizards. They are often seen on trees, on boulders, and Many rodents, including wary squirrels, have taken among rock ledges and true to their name they are hard to catch. Some 30 species and subspecies live in the U.S. The largest have portions of choice bait which I have meticulously placed bodies about 5 inches long with tails slightly longer. for them against a carefully worked out background, * only to clamber on top of the camera's rangefinder and GILA MoNSTER LIZARD-H eloderma suspectum - The Gila Monster is the only poisonous lizard in the United States. They will grow contentedly munch my offerings. Such incidents prove to two feet in length feeding on eggs, small rodents and other amusing, though at the time they may leave a disgruntled lizards. Usually slow and clumsy, this lizard can twist his neck and move his head from side to side in lightning-like movements when photographer. he becomes agitated. * The critical problem, then, is setting off the shutter LEOPARD LIZARD-Crotapbytus wislezeni- The leopard lizard has a at precisely the right moment, for this timing can either long slender body and is more or less spotted. Tt feeds e>n insects make or break the picture. It is difficult at best, since it and other lizards. The female lays from two to four eggs which hatch in a month. Like some of the giant prehistoric lizards, the must be released when the animal assumes the right posi­ leopard lizard is also able to run erect on its hind legs. tion without the photographer being there to frighten the * subject away. GRAY Fox - Urocyon cinereoargenteus - This fox is found in the Tripping the shutter is accomplished by leading a western and southern part of the United States. Its favorite habitat is in rough country and canyons where it can make its den in wire from the camera's solenoid to the flashgun. Push­ rocks and hide in brush. It is rather small, weighing from 10 to 18 ing the flashgun button activates the solenoid, sometimes pounds and is about 40 inches long, including his 18 inch tail. Usually three or four young are born in the early spring. · 200 feet away. Stout extension cords are a must for these * operations. In using long shutter cords, it is also advisable SWEETHEART MoTH-Catocala amatrix - A night-flying moth, the to use an extra set of batteries in parallel with those in Sweetheart resembles a large gray fly when resting. As it flies it the flashgun to provide enough electrical surge for the shows its brightly colored hind wings, and hence, falls into a group of moths known as the underwings. It feeds on sap and nectar. solenoid to do its work. * Lighting, of course, is the primary criterion for tak­ DARITIS MoTH-Daritis tbetis - So rare is this insect that only a few have been discovered. This beautiful moth has so far only been ing any photograph, and in the out-of-doors light must collected in Southern Arizona, but possibly its range extends into be taken when it can be had. However, in many cases, Mexico. * available light may be too weak. The alternative is to HoARY BAT - Lasiurus cinereus - This bat is a solitary type, pre- employ some type of supplementary lighting. ferring to roost alone. Unlike many bats it prefers trees to hang in The flash bulb, though convenient and safe, is not rather than caves or crevices. It inhabits the greater part of the United States. * quite adequate, chiefly because of its inability to stop fast PoRCVPI NE - Erethizon dorsatum - He is the only mammal in the action. One must remember that physical reaction time U.S. which bears quills. Total length is about 30 inches with a nine in birds and animals is much quicker than ours. Even if inch tail. As a youngster, he feeds on tender grass. When mature his diet consists of conifer tree bark and leaves. Few animals will a shutter is set at 1 / 50th or 1 / 1 ooth of a second there still tangle with the porcupine for at the slightest touch on the part of may be movement which will cause the image to blur. the attacker he will have a face full of quills. * PAGE TWELVE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH, 1959 - . QRINGTAIL CAT - Bassariscus astutus AMERICAN BISON - Bison bison MULE DEER - Odocoileus hemionus PRONGHORN - Antilocapra americana SPINY SWIFT - TExAs HoR'- FD LrzARD - Pry11osoma cornotum Sceloporus jarrori GRAY Fox - Urocyon cinereoargenteus [; GILA Mo:-ssTER LIZARD - H elodenna suspectum LEOPARD LIZARD - Crotaphytus wislezeni SWEETHEART MoTH - Catocala amatrix DARITIS MoTH - Daritis thetis RED S POTTED P URPLE - Basilarchia astyanax TIGER SWALLOWTAIL BUTTERFLY - Papilio turnus HoARY BAT - Lasiurus cinereus PORCUPINE - Erethizon dorsatum CoATI - Nasua narica DESERT ToRTOISE - Gopherus agassizii FLY AMANITA MusHROOM - Amanita muscaria RussuLA MusHROOM - Russula heterophylla QTREE FUNGUS - Ganoderma lobatum LICHENS - Caloplaca LICHENS - Parmelia GoLDEN DAISY - Aplopappus gracilis OREGON GRAPE - Berberis repens Q WATER HYACINTH - Eichhornia crassipes SANDVERBENA A bronia villosa N O T E S F O R P H O T O G R A P H E R S • Continued * RED SPOTTED PURPLE - Basilarcbia astyanax - This butterfly is so In overcoming this drawback, the advent of· the named for its red spots on the under side along the wing borders electronic flash, in my opinion, has been one of the great­ and at the base of the hind wings. The larvae feed on wild cherry, est assets to the nature photographer. I cannot praise it willow, and other trees, preferring shaded woods. * highly enough, and the equipment is quite flexible if it TIGER SWALLOWTAIL BuTIERFLY-Papilio turnus - One of the larger is used in the right manner. butterflies, it has a wingspread of 3 ¾ inches. This beautiful butter­ fly has been nominated as our national bntterfly. More than 20 By balancing the electronic flash with daylight, it is species of the swallowtails occur in the United States, and all are possible to get a light or dark background depending predominantly black or yellow. * upon the shutter setting, and still have the foreground CoATi - Nasua narica - A cousin of the raccoon, the coati is a rusty frozen. This is not as difficult as it sounds. brown animal with a long tail and a pig-like snout. His nose is used for rooting among leaves and rocks in search of insects, grubs, and For example, let us make a transparency of a bird's tubers. Coatis are gregarious, often roaming the forests with as nest situated in the shade. A meter reading would require many as 200 in their band. Though a tropical species, they are r / 50th of a second at f-2. But beyond, in the sun, the found in the Chiricahua and Huachuca Mountains of Arizona. * meter reading would be r/ 50th of a second at f-r r. DESERT TORTOISE - Gopberus agassizii - An interesting denizen of The procedure, then, is to set the lights at the re­ the Southwest is the land tortoise. He is also protected by game officials. He may be likened to a knight of old in that he is fully quired distance, which, by their intensity and short du­ equipped with armor and carries his own lance. He is completely ration, will freeze everything at r / 1000th of a second in vegetarian. * the deep shado,v. Yet the shutter speed is set for the day-_ TREE FUNGUS - Ganodenna lobatunz - This fungus frequents the hardwoods, particularly oak. As the fruiting bodies become older light filtering through the branches. Consequently, we they also become browner and less colorful. New fruiting bodies have a well-balanced picture, needle-sharp in the fore­ have just formed near the top. ground, but still leaving the background light. FLY AMANITA MusHROOM - Amanita* 111uscaria - Know n to many The other method is to make sure that all the back­ as the "death cup" this plant is deadly poisonous. The plant erupts ground is w.ithin range of the flash, and is therefore ex­ from an egg-shaped tissue· leaving a cup like membrane about the stem's base, hence its name. They can be found growing in all parts posed equally well as the subject. The distance from the of the country all during the summer and until the first frost. subject to the lights governs the f stops. * I use two lights, standing almost opposite each other. RussULA MusHROOM-Russula beteropbylla - The various Russulas are the brightest mushrooms found in the forest. Their colors range One acts as a key light, which is placed higher, and the from the brightest reds to green, purple, violet, and yellow. Some other acts as a fill-in, pla'ced at a lower plane. This arrange­ are edible and some are not. Because of the great variances within ment simulates more cl.osely natural lighting. The fill-in the species they are quite difficult to identify. * softens the shadows, creating a roundness effect. Model­ LICHENS - Caloplaca - A lichen is a partnership, consisting of two ing is extremely important, and can rarely be achieved kinds of plants. Each specimen is a fungus with a large number of alga cells growing inside it. The alga cells make food that the fungus by the use of a single light. also lives on. The fungus absorbs water and mineral matter and Letting the animal take his own picture is an exciting MERRIAM TuRKEY - Meleagris gallopavo m erriami apparently gives the alga some protection. facet of wildlife photography. This can be done easily * ARIZONA CARDINAL - Richmondena cardinalis superba WESTERN BLUEBIRD - Sialia mexicana occidentalis LICHENS - Parmelia - Lichens are the toughest of all plants in enough by using a mouse trap which acts as a tripping resisting the elements. They grow in places where nothing else switch. The technique is to tie a fine, though stout thread could live, on antarctic mountains where the temperature rarely to a root or trunk with about an inch clearance from the climbs above freezing and on desert rocks at temperatures of 170 degrees F. The "reindeer moss" of northern Canada is a lichen. ground. This thread passes over the bait and is attached to the trap trigger. When disturbed, the thread springs GOLDEN DAISY - Aplopappus gracilis* - The golden daisy is often found making large displays with its vivid color on dry plains, the trap. As th~ arm swings down, it brushes against a mesas and rocky slopes in Southern Arizona. Its tiny, yellow flowers soldered wire Je.ad, completing the circuit, and firing the bloom from early spring until late fall. flash. WATER HYACINTH ...:_ Eicbbornia* crassipes - A native of South But one never knows which way the subject may be America, the water hyacinth has become naturalized in the south­ facing, and hence some of the results may be somewhat ern part of the United States. The violet flowers grow on a spike discouraging. Obviously, one does not want to take a pic­ about 8 to 10 inches above the water. They have floating leaves and spongy stalks filled with air chambers. ture when the animal's eyes are closed, or if he has laid back his ears, or if he has turned his head away, or if he SANDVERBENA - Abronia villosa -* The pink to lavender blooms of this low-growing herb are found in sandy locations throughout all has backed toward the camera and only a portrait of of the Southwest deserts. They bloom from March to April in his tail would result. the desert and during the early summer in higher elevations. The most successful method to overcome these awk­ OREGON GRAPE - Berberis repens* - A very low-growing shrub ward positions is to set off the shutter visually from a with bluish grape-like fruit. It is found on dry, rocky slopes, and is blind, and diligently use a pair of field glasses to determine especially abundant along the Grand Canyon rims. Deer are quite when the animal i~ in the precise plane of focus. Spot­ fond of its leaves and berries. Because of its spiny-edged leaves it is often mistaken for holly. * lights are needed at night. Though the beam may be ex­ MERRIAM TURKEY - i\!leleagris gallopavo nzerriami - This turkey ceptionally high-powered, animals do not seem to be differs from .the eastern wild turkey in having whitish tips on frightened of a stationary light. the tail-feathers instead of chestnut. They live in small flocks the Blinds are not hard to construct. If the animal is par­ year round and can often be seen in the open meadows of the forests as they feed on grass, seeds, and insects. At night they roost ticularly cautious, it may be necessary to make the camera in the tops of trees. ·* setup and build the hideout several days before actually ARIZONA CARDINAL - Ricbmondena cardinalis superba - The cardi­ making any photographs. The more simply made, the nal is an exceedingly colorful bird, mostly red with a black bib more practical. In fact, ordinary brush piles serve the under his bill. With their cheerful and melodious song they are welcome guests at any feeding table. The male is a devoted parent purpose very well. Low bushes and clumps· of weeds are and tirelessly searches for insects to keep his family well fed. just as effective. Strange as it may seem, cars make good W ESTERN BLUEBIRD - Sialia mexicana* occidentalis - Here, a male blinds. For some reason, wildlife exhibit little fear of a bluebird and a juvenile bird drink at a waterhole. The bluebird is man in an automobile. a little larger than a sparrow, with head, wings, and tail blue. It is best to wear dark clothing, which makes one Breast and back are rusty-red. They breed in the higher foothills and pine belts throughout the West. much less conspicuous behind a camouflage. The cardinal * PAGE TWENTY-FIVE • ARIZ ON A HIGHvVAYS • MARCH, 1959 * point to keep in mind is not to make any quick move­ TOOLS OF THE TRADE ments-the one thing that all wildlife associate with dan­ ger. An indiscreet move may take days to rectify . Lenses, cameras, holders, electronic flash equipment, plus an The lure of wildflower beauty is universal, inviting array of small, but significant items, constitute the tools of the the photographer to show his skill in lighting, composi­ trade. Without becoming a gadgeteer, the specialized photographer tion, and camera techniques. But flower photography finds a specific need for all his gear. Displayed here is the equip­ also presents its own set of problems. ment used in making these nature studies. Much wildlife must be shot by telephoto equipment ·to bring The most important point to remember is to keep it close enough to make a recognizable image on the film. This the hackground simple. This can be done in two ways, lens ( 1) , a 20" Bausch and Lomb telephoto, is coupled with a first, choose a background which is plain and uncluttered. viewfinder-rangefinder of my own design. Time is an extremely Second, by se lective focus. In the latter, an examination important element in photographing animals. There are many through the groundglass will reveal the best aperture. occasions when it becomes impossible to focus through the ground­ Large f stops leave the background less sharp than smaller glass, close the diaphragm, wind the shutter and still shoot a pic­ diaphragm openings. Usually the bigger stops make better ture before the subject vanishes. With this arrangement I can focus and frame the image without extracting the holder. The principle flower pictorials. acts in the same manner as a twin lens reflex. Viewing lens and In some cases there may be too bold a delineation telephoto lens are coupled. By turning a single focusing knob both between shadow and light. Then, selective focus may not lenses are focused in the same action. These lenses are mounted to be able to soften the background enough. Portable back­ a 3 ¼ x 4 ¼ Speed Graphic camera (2). ground of stiff (show card) pasteboard may have to be The lens which I am holding (3) is a 500111111 f-5 Astro, also used. These large cards, 28x22 inches, can be had in sev­ used for distant subjects, especially birds. It is· adapted to a eral colors. Kine Exakta (4), a 35mm single lens reflex camera. Item (5) is the But being of solid colors, they do not enhance the main light of a portable Hershey Sun-Lite electronic flash. The extension unit (6) acts as a fill-in light for modeling effects. These subject with that subtle mottling of complimentary hues, Sun-Lites, I find, are superior to flash bulbs, chiefly because of which only natural backgrounds can offer. their speed, about 1000th of a second. This eliminates movement Time of day dictates lighting conditions. Backlight­ and blurred images. ing and sidelighting as a rule make far more interesting The elevator type tripod head ( 7) is ideal for telephoto work pictures than ffatlighting. because the camera can be raised or lowered with a minimum of Wind creates the greatest problem in photographing motion on the part of the photographer. flowers. I have waited many hours for a lull, and that This Graphic (8) I operate mostly for animals and birds. It houses a (9) 135mm Ektar f-4.7 lens with shutter synchronized seems to be about all that can be done. Large cardboards for electronic flash. The tripod (IO) which this camera rests on are helpful to deflect the breeze provided it is not a is an Otto Senior, made of wood. It is practical in that it can be steady wind. set up in water, mud or sand without damage. Fungi, wild berries aiid lichens are quite easily photo­ The handiest of my carrying cases is a 50 caliber ammunition graphed with the wind problem practically eliminated box ( 11). Sand proof and water proof, it can store eighteen because of their more stable stems and growing holders plus light meter and filters. Bigger than the ammo box is conditions. a heavy wooden case (12) which holds all the 35111111 equipment. Here is where closeup techniques are at a premium. Item ( 13) is an important piece of equipment, the Sun-Lite It is far better to shoot "tight" than take in a large area. AC adapter used for the electronic flash . Actually, it is a battery saving device employed when regular 110-volt house current If the exposure contains several centers of interest, which is available. The Sun-Lite battery power pack ( 14) for the flash invariably happens when the camera includes too great a is quite portable and can be packed into any primitive area. field, the original theme has lost its appeal. Item ( 15 ) includes the two aluminum stands needed to hold the In the same vein, insects must be photographed from electronic flash heads. close range lest their configuration be lost. A change from In photographing animals from blinds, long extension cords normal exposure must be made when using long bellows are needed to operate the camera. This ( 16) is a ioo' cord. Occa­ extension for extreme close-ups, complicating matters sionally I employ flash bulbs for supplementary lighting. Again, somewhat. But luckily, photographic stores carry handy the use of an extension ( 17) is imperative to obtain good model­ ing. An extra flashgun ( 18) has the dual purpose of adding elec­ exposure calculators which are designed for on the spot trical power by special connectors for long shutter cords. It can usage. also be used directly to trip the shutter. Many camera fans, I know, have fixed focus or cam­ Many times a longer focal length lens is needed when the eras which have unchangeable lenses. In this case, the camera cannot be set up at close range. In this case a 240111111 Tele addition of a protar lens solves much of the problem in Zenar f-5 .5 ( 19) usually fills the bill. There are, of course, times getting close-up images. They are available in many sizes. when a wide angle lens is needed. On such occasions I interchange a 90111111 Wide Angulon f-6.8 ( 20). Obviously it would be impossible to discuss all facets Item ( 2 1) is another ioo' extension cord. My light meter in the realm of nature photography. And actually, it (22) is a Dejur Professional which I have used since 1948. This wouldn't be a good idea. flashgun ( 2 3) can operate the shutter of either camera. A tape Experimentation and discovery are the tribulations (24) is a necessity for measuring the distance from the lights and fruits of any worthwhile project. Without them life to the subject to calculate exposure. would be indeed dull, and nature photography would Film holders (25) are an integral part of any photographer's merely be a push-button affair. equipment. With the exception of the Exakta, all my cameras use So, borrow the spirit of Columbus or Magellan, arm the same size holders, 29 in all. This third 3 Y-i x 4 ¼ Speed Graphic yourself with your favorite ·camera and discover the fleet­ (26) I use mostly for still life, flowers and forest subject matter. ness of the forest deer, the thrill of spying on a flock of It houses a 12 7111111 f-4-7 Ektar lens (27) . Aside from the wide angle lens this is the shortest focal length used with the cameras. ·wild turkeys, the lovely lavender haze of asters blooming A combination extension cord (28) of 15', 30', and 55' proves in a meadow. very practical. With these lengths, any desired shutter cord foot­ Keep your shutter cocked, your eye ready. There age may be produced. By adding Jhe other two 100' cords, up to should be good hunting ahead. 300' may be obtained.

PAGE TWENTY-SEVEN • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH, 1959 Remains of the Fort today Fort Bowie tn 1886

• • • I, •.V • • ®}:O-. . ~\. '"!!J''. \ • .;JD !(i. ~-. GUARDIAN OF APACHE FASS BY WALTER ALLISON TOMPKINS

hundred years ago-when the seeds transcontinental route was a six-mile stretch of the the Indians been panicked by the thunder of the paleface Volunteer Infantry. of history and legend were being Mesilla-Tucson division, where the road lifted itself over "shooting sticks on wheels" -field artiJlery howitzers­ The post was officiaIIy christened "Camp Bowie" - planted in Arizona for harvesting by a gap separating the Chiricahua and Dos Cabezas moun­ and withdrew posthaste. not in honor of the Alamo martyr of hunting-knife fame, the fictioneers of a softer civilization tain ranges. Stage drivers called this leg "Hell's Gate" The narrow escape of this column, en route from Col. James Bowie, but another Colonel, George W. -the Southern Overland stagecoach or "Suicide Run." Tucson to New Mexico, jolted the vVar Department out Bowie, of the California Column. Outlanders often used offered a tempting travel 'bargain to We know it today as Apache Pass. of its preoccupation with the War Between the States. the long O in Bowie; Arizonans correctly rhyme Bowie any American afflicted with wander­ As an incentive to keep the Concords rolling, Butter­ A month after the remote Battle of Apache Pass, Wash­ with Dewey. lust. For the sum of $150 plus meals, John Butterfield's field-and later on, Torn Jeffords-paid triple wages to ington directed the founding of a fort to guard the east­ For the first six years of its existence, Camp Bowie bullhide-sprung Concords would pick him up in Missouri those hardy jehus lucky enough to complete the Apache ern entrance of the death trap. For the site, engineers was classified as "irregular." After 1868, however, its in­ and transport him 2,535 miles to San Francisco in 585 Pass run. Despite the pass' reputation as the West's surveyed a mile-square reservation at the base of a 6, 1 1o­ creasing importance in defending the Arizona settlers hours. vVhat the ticket vendors neglected to mention, bloodiest death trap, the stage company rarely Jacked for foot mountain ( later named Bowie Peak) w hich was against Indian depredations accorded it the status of a however, was a growing tendency on the part of Mr. Lo's reinsmen or fare-paying clientele. It took the Pony convenient to a water supply and only one hundred miles fort. Arizona cousins to disrupt advertised timetables across Express competition and the dislocation of Civil War from Tumacacori, Tubae or the Old Pueblo of Tucson. The coming of the railroad in r 88 r reduced over­ their tribal hunting grounds in present-day Cochise to halt Butterfield's traffic across Apacheria. Using only the rock and adobe clay at hand, some land wagon traffic through Apache Pass to a trickle, but County. The Apache Pass road was already fenced by the thirty buildings were hastily erected around the four sides Fort Bowie remained on an active basis until it was deac­ The stage traveler entering Arizona had no better grave boards of uncounted massacre victims in July, 1862, of a r 5-acre rectangle. No bastioned stockade, redoubts tivated in 1896. In 191 1 the instaJlation and surrounding than an even chance of not having his journey delayed­ when a combined force of Chiricahua and Warm Spring or posterns were built; this installation was for offense, reservation was auctioned off to cattlemen in the vicinity or terminated-by welcoming committees in breechclouts Apaches, under Cochise and Mangas Coloradas, ambushed not defense. Inasmuch as regular troops had been trans­ for a paltry $4,000, and Fort Bowie began its decline int·o and warpaint, ready to punch his through-ticket with a column of Union infantry, cavalry and artillery seek­ ferred from Arizona at the outset of hostilities in the East, limbo. Its place in history has been neglected; no other musketball or arrowhead. ing a spring east of the summit. These troops, numbering the new post's first garrison comprised the one hundred military establishment in the West did more to advance By far the most dangerous point on the southern fourteen companies, ,vould have been decimated had not men and three officers of Company G, 5th California civilization in its isolated area.

PAGE TWENTY-:.;INE • ARIZONA HIGH,VAYS • i\l ,\RCII, 1959 General Crook (arrow) and scouts en route to Mexico m 1882 4th Cavalry band on parade ground, Fort Bowie, 1886

PHOTOGRAPHS- ·NATIONAL ARCHIVES

Apache Pass lies off the beaten path of today's tour­ difficult to spot, in midday especially, even with the where, ninety-two years ago, Uncle Sam built a bastion At this point it might be well to insert a word of ists who, on their way down Highway 666 to visit the aid of glasses. At dawn or sunset, however, the ruins to protect the California Trail. advice. The serious student of Fort Bowie history should, fabulous Wonderland of Rocks in Chiricahua National stand out like gaunt tombstones in the distance, forming The ruins of Old Fort Bowie are not for the hur­ before visiting the site in Cochise County, devote a few Monument ten miles farther south, see the Pass-if their sepulchral pattern against the sage and greasewood ried sightseer who insists on reaching historic spots with­ hours to poring over the documents and relics from they notice it at all-as an inconspicuous saddle denting which stand in review on the empty parade ground and out leaving asphalt. But for the student of Western Amer­ the post which are kept in the Arizona Pioneers Histori­ low mountains on the eastern skyline. march off and away up the steep flanks of Bowie Peak. icana, for the tourist who thrills to the oft-told tales of cal Society Museum in the University Stadium in Tuc­ By movie standards, Apache Pass may not be photo­ In motoring across Apache Pass today, the tourist cavalry-versus-Indians, a trek to Old Fort Bowie is a son, or the archives of the Capitol Building in Phoenix. genic in the 3-D concept of spectacular scenery. Perhaps should bear in mind that Butterfield's stages kept to the richly rewarding experience. By so doing, he can study contemporary photo­ that is why Hollywood, in producing their perennial bottom of the canyon, being denied the easier gradient The easiest approach to the site is from the east, or graphs showing Fort Bowie as it appeared in its heyday epics about "Apache Pass," choose such super-colossal which modern bulldozers and blasting powder have San Simon Valley side. A straight dirt road leads south during the '70s and 'Sos, whereby individual buildings, gorges as Canyon de Chelly to double for the Butter­ gouged along the Dos Cabezas footslopes. Down there, from Bowie, on US 66, for ten miles. Here the road forks, now in ruins, can be sketched on a ground plan and later field road's dark and bloody ground. where the chaparral grows thickest, may still be seen the left turning being the right-of-way to ranches in identified in si tu. But moviedom's cameras are guilty of needless mis­ the twin ruts of the old Concords, scoring their enduring Emigrant Canyon, in the near foothills of the Chiricahuas. Armed with such advance knowledge, the visitor's representation. Apache Pass, for all its lack of cliff-girt mark in patches of exposed bedrock. Here and there are · The right-hand fork enters Apache Pass proper, an hour's first glimpse of Fort Bowie cannot fail to impres~ him chasms and snow-clad crags, is scenic in a rough and weedy graves, some marked by century-old cairns of driving time to Willcox. with a sense of the locale's historic significance. The visi­ sinister way-as grim a malpais in 1954 as it was to the rock, where unknown emigrants, prospectors and sol­ To reach Fort Bowie, continue another four miles ble remains seem eerie after the decay of half a century's Indian-harassed stagecoach drivers hauling adventurers diers ·were cut down by the Apaches. A few sites are on the ranch road to an unsigned fork veering right neglect; not one of the forty-odd buildings has its roof west in 185 4- But the menace is imaginary rather than marked by signs erected by the Bowie Chamber of Com­ toward the looming rocky height which is Bowie Peak. intact. Every stick of timber has long since been carted actual; the most timid motorist can traverse the modern merce; most of them are invisible from the road. This road follows a barranca for a half mile and brings away, to reappear in Dos Cabezas, Willcox, as fence well-graded dirt road over Apache Pass at any season of At one point, two miles from the eastern entrance the visitor to a barbed wire fence with two gates bracket­ posts skirting cattle ranges, or in ranchmen's barns. the year in a half hour's time. of the Pass, a three foot cone of concreted lava stands ing the creekbed. The first landmark to be encountered is the emi­ Tourists entering Arizona by Highway 86 from the fifty feet south of the road. Imbedded through it are two The owner of jeep or jalopy can enter the right-hand grants' waterhole which was the genesis of the post. It east frequently take the Apache Pass cut-off from Bowie, lengths of chromium-plated brass tubing. By sighting gate and continue on another half-mile over an exceeding­ is easily identified by the lush paloverdes and tamarisks in the San Simon Valley, to Dos Cabezas Junction on through these, the viewer sees framed the panorama of ly rocky, but passable one-way lane, and reach the very hemming its contemporary concrete coaming. Fifty paces the Safford-Douglas highway. It is doubtful if one vis­ old Fort Bowie, otherwise invisible against the drab over­ sallyport of Bowie. Spiny roadside thickets discourage south of the spring is a planked-over tunnel mouth at itor in a hundred sees old Fort Bowie in passing, how­ all camouflage of the landscape. These tubes were care­ the entry of shiny new cars, however, whose owners the foot of the hill. This was Bowie's powder magazine; ever. The modern Apache Pass road is a mile north of fully calibrated by engineers of the Arizona Highway face an easy twenty-minute walk to the Fort with no a signboard dating back to the 'Sos still warns the visitor the post, and the crumbling adobe ruins are so exactly DepartmenJ to bear on p O 40' North Latitude, p O 27' difficulty other than ordinary vigilance against treading DANGER-HIGH EXPLOSIVES! similar in color to the roundabout terrain that they are West Longitude-the mesa 4,826 feet above sea-level on a rattler sunning himself on the road. West of the subterranean powderhouse, across a Bowie's signal station was the busiest message center in ing expedition to Fort Bowie. Arizona Territory. Today the ruins of Old Fort Bowie bask in sun­ From Bowie's crest a sweeping panorama of rugged, drenched solitude, fenced off from grazing livestock but desolate grandeur awaits the climber. Westward, beyond otherwise unprotected; a fast-crumbling monument to Helen's Dome in the near distance, we see the Dragoons Arizona's historic past. The men whose footprints have and the dark cleft of mystery which is Cochise's Strong­ vanished from the dust of Bowie's parade ground include hold, guarding the secret grave of that great Indian chief. the famous and infamous of the past: Cochise and his To the northwest of Apache Pass lifts the twin­ loyal friend Tom Jeffords; outlaw Curly Bill Brocius of peaked heights . of Dos Cabezas Peak, a Spanish name nearby Galeyville; General Nelson A. Miles and his meaning "two heads" said to have been given the moun­ arch-foe Geronimo; the bronco Apache, "Big-Foot" tain by the armored conquistadores of Cabeza de Vaca, Massai; conquistador Alvar Nunez ( de Vaca); sheriff the first white men to visit the region. Northeastward, John Slaughter, General George Crook, scouts Al Sieber the San Simon Valley stretches away to meet the purple and Tom Horn, empire-builder John Butterfield, pros­ Peloncillos and Gilas; to the east is Stein's Pass in New pector Ed Scheffiin-and a host of others. Mexico. Southward in the near distance is Cochise Head, This is hallowed ground. It can be visited without a lithic profile of the chief which guards the fantastic undue difficulty. More the pity, then, that it should be lava formations of Chiricahua National Monument, less overlooked by the cavalcade of motoring Americans, than ten miles away as the buzzard flies. speeding across Apache Pass in search of the better-pub­ Descending to Fort Bowie again, the visitor can fol­ licized wonders of the Old West to be found in such low the dim trace of the Butterfield Stages' wheels north­ profusion along Arizona's highways. Scene at Fort Bowie after Geronimo's surr~nder east into Apache Pass. A half mile along the wash is the site of the old Military Cemetery, where the graves car­ Ruins of historic Fort Bowie sandy-floored ravine where leather-springed Concords hospital steward's cubicle, and to one side a kitchen and ried such macabre epitaphs as "Murdered by Apaches," once jounced in from Stein's Pass on the New Mexican bathhouse. "Tortured by Indians." When the fort was deactivated border, rises the stark shell of a ninety-year-old building, Eastward along the north side of the quadrangle are just before the turn of the century, most of the known thirty by 156 feet, with thick adobe walls rising ten feet the ruins of the commissary stores warehouse, its twenty­ emigrants and soldiers interred there were moved else­ high. This is the largest relic to survive the onslaughts of by-fifty-foot cellar nearly filled with the residue of its where; today only a few grave mounds can be found nature's erosion and the heavy hand of the vandal. It dissolving walls. Closing the squared circle of our tour amid the encroaching mesquite and catclaw. housed the post library, a schoolroom where soldiers' is a barrack, divided into two equal squadrooms, with The outstanding landmark of the Fort Bowie region children learned their 3 R's, and a bakery shop. messhall and kitchen in the rear. is the blunt-knobbed cone directly west, 6,363-foot Consulting our map drawn from descriptions found Here in a room where weary Indian fighters once Helen's Dome. Only experienced mountain climbers in the museum at Tucson, we leave this building by the hung up their sabers, the floor stands open to the brassy should attempt its precipitous scarps. Its inaccessibility south door and, heading along the eastern flank of the sky, with three generations of cactus and mesquite and made it useless for army signal corpsmen. Fort's quadrangle, come to the ruins of the combination sage growing tall. Here, amid the alluvial debris of mud The naming of Helen's Dome is lost in legend. Some tailor and barber shop. Next are two fifty-foot-long walls, the visitor may chance upon a corroded brass but­ historians believe it honors the wife of a Bowie officer; sguadrooms, the adjutant's office where such celebrated ton bearing the army's eagle, dropped from some troop­ but others, such as Ray Kent of the Silver Spur Ranch scouts as Tom Horn and Al Seiber once got their orders, er's uniform long ago. Rarest prize of all to the souvenir in the Chiricahaus, insist on the following version: and beyond that, on the southwestern corner, the mor­ hunter is the copper insignia worn on a cavalryman's hat, In the early '50s, a California-bound wagon train tared rock foundations hard against the foot of Bowie the crossed sabers bearing regimental numeral and com­ outspanned at the waterhole where Fort Bowie was to Peak which mark the remains of the commandant's resi­ pany letter; these have been picked out of the dust within be built a decade later. Apache warriors attacked the dence. Here the ghosts of Generals Crook and Miles await recent months. squared circle of Cohestogas at dawn, firing the canvas to greet us, having made their headquarters there dur­ North of the ruins are the stone walls of the old wagon sheets with arrows soaked in deer grease and ing the climax of the Indian campaigns. stables and corrals. Vandals have long since carted away rolled in. gunpowder before being ignited and dispatched. Officers' Row followed the south boundary toward Fort Bowie's choicest trophies, but today's visitor should Of the beleaguered defenders, one-a girl named the west, each house consisting of two 15x15-foot rooms explore the brushy area northwest of the ruins, which Helen-managed to break through the cordon of howl­ separated by a corridor, with adjoining kitchens and was the old rifle target range. Here, amid the sage and ing redskins. Her trail was picked up by moccasined dining rooms. Midway along the Row we find the best­ rubble, corroded cartridge cases from cavalry carbines braves, who followed -her up the tortuous height of the preserved remains of Fort Bowie-a triple-compartmented and Colt pistols are still plentiful, lying where they fell nameless dome-shaped mountain west of the wagon concrete cistern, six feet deep by fifty feet long, which many yesterdays ago after being ejected from the weap­ camp. There, on its lofty crest, the girl found herself guaranteed a water supply for the Officers' Mess during ons of troopers engaged in target practice here. trapped. Rather than risk capture and torture-or worse, drought periods. The silence that pervades the old Fort is broken a life of slavery in some squaw's lodge-Helen flung her­ One's imagination should be given free rein as we today by few sounds-the drone of an airplane winging self off the peak into the jagged talus 500 feet below, cross the brush-dotted parade toward the northern ruins. high overhead, the yammer of a coyote far back in the and her body was never recovered. Survivors of the Yonder is the wooden stub of the flagstaff where Bowie's hills, the buzz of a diamondback or the scuttle of a whip­ wagon fight named the mountain Helen's Dome. garrison once lined up by companies in regimental re­ tail lizard amid the ruins. But within the memory of per­ Whether this melodramatic story is fact or fiction, view; this is the spot where Geronimo's renegades laid sons still living, this mesa once echoed to the war whoops it is true that in 1904, the splintered skeleton of an adult down their arms in 1886 to end the threat of the Apache of ambushed redskins, the twang of bowstrings, the rum­ female was discovered north of Helen's Dome by a pros­ for all time. From Bowie the die-hard chief and his band ble of emigrants' wagonwheels. The ghosts of Apache pector. Nearby was an 1848 model Dragoon percus­ were taken to the railroad for shipment en masse to Fort Pass die hard. . sion revolver. Four of its six chambers held powder and Pickens in far-off Florida. In order to gain an idea of Fort Bowie's geographical ball; the hammer was rusted open at full cock. Coming to the northwestern corner of the parade environs, the visitor should climb Bowie Peak-1 ,248 The revolver and arrowheads wound up in the pi­ we find the dissolving adobe walls of the guardhouse and feet to the summit where the old heliograph station stood. oneer historical collection of author Charles M. Martin hospital. The visitor can define the outlines of a store­ During the period of the Indian wars which the military of Oceanside, California, who in April, 1953, presented room next to a nine-bed ward, followed by a dispensary, might of Fort Bowie did so much to terminate, Fort them to the writer, freshly returned from a story-hunt-

PAGE THIRTY-THREE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH, 1959 Bill Williams Mountain Men Continued from Page Seven

A group of portraits showing Moztlltain Men in everyday life

SCOTT HAYDEN PHOTOGRAPHS

Although March is the month that brings the first of life can be found in the modern counterparts' sleep­ On reaching Phoenix the men bed down at various Grand Entry parade at the Jaycee Rodeo each day of the day of spring, the Bill Williams country is not exactly ing equipment. There are no buffalo robes to be found motels near the fairgrounds, where the horses are kept, performance. The Mountain Men never fail to receive synchronized with the rest of the state in the matter of in camps. Som@ of the men favor the warmest of modern so that they can care for their mounts each day and pre­ the most applause of any group in the Grand Entry. the seasons. Almost every year that the ride has been sleeping bags and air mattresses, but most of them rely pare for the opening parade of the J. C. Rodeo, getting Practically the whole state has taken the Bill Wil­ made the weather has been brisk to say the least. In 1954 on the standard cowboy-style bedroll with a tarpaulin signs, furs, and other trappings ready for the big event. liams Mountain Men as a symbol of Arizona. Persons the bewhiskered buckos hit the trail with the morning cover under which a man can tuck his head to keep off The Mountain Men have won first prize in their from any town in the state will introduce the Mountain thermometer standing at six below zero, and the ride was the frost and snow. division each of the four years in which they have entered Men to visitors as "our" Mountain Men. Also, since the begun in snow and sleet storms the next two years. The first day's ride takes the men from their home the Phoenix Jaycee Rodeo. ( Another parade first was news pictures and film coverage fail to specify the Moun­ Despite unreconstructed horses, snow and ice, hang­ at the foot of their namesake's mountain to camp on the won at the Wickenburg Rodeo in February, 1957.) Proof tain Men's home as being in the northern part of the overs, and the many other hazards of the Mountain Men's Perkins ranch at Perkinsville on the Verde River. Five .of the attention-commanding appearance and antics of the state, Arizona as a whole is publicized. To further this, way of life, there have been only three minor casualties o'clock the next morning finds them combing the frost Mountain Men is in the amount of news space and TV Ralph Painter was taken along on the 1957 ride to film during the history of the group. Ray Stewart broke a out of their beards in preparation for riding the long haul coverage that is devoted to them. the entire trip for TV and to make a record film of the finger while mounting for the first ride in 1954, Bill Lilly to Dewey. The third camp is at Sunset Point on the Black After the opening parade of the rodeo the festivities ride. This film has been placed in a film library for the did the same thing on the next ride, and Hurley Wright Canyon Highway, where the Phoenix J. C.'s and their begin for the group-and only rugged constitutions en­ use of any club or organization which wishes to use it. received a horseshoe imprint on his leg in 1957. wives are entertained with a steak dinner. The fourth able the men to survive them. Numerous TV and radio Although the membership of the Bill Williams Moun­ The Mountain Men do well by themselves in the culi­ camp is made eleven miles from the Curve on the Black appearances, press parties, parties and dinners given by tain Men is limited to twenty-four, there are usually three nary department. Typical cow camp grub-which means Canyon Highway. On that night the men customarily organizations and friends each afternoon and evening, or four openings for members, the reason for which being such things as steak, beans, and biscuits cooked in Dutch eat dinner at the Curve and dance all night in celebration visits to the Crippled Children's Hospital, and similar ac­ that today even as one hundred and fifty years ago a man ovens-sustains them during the ride. of the impending arrival at the rendezvous in Phoenix tivities make the rendezvous time a strenuous one. These must have a certain ruggedness and stamina to be a Moun­ One departure from the true Mountain Men's w:iy the following day. activities are in addition to the main one of riding in the tain Man.

Crossi11g the Verde Full dressed before ride Heading for Dewey Farewell parade in lVilliams * AROUND THE WORLD Yours sinceref v IN EIGHTY MINUTES ssssssss . .. WWWWIIIIIIII . . . S:E--:1 ! SSSSSSSS . IN l;\'D0;\'15 1.A: P ARIS FASH IO~S: .. wwww1111111, ... sH, ... You r iss ue concerned w ith "Indians of . .. I wrote you a h,ng letter some tw o -AK AKVIK A rizona" (August 1958 ) in terested and months al[o and left it unfinished as I was plc,1sc d srudcnrs at the Fakultas Pcrtanian, off on a ~long trip around Europe for the N IGHT FLIGHT U ni ,·crsirns Indonesia. In donesians w ere sur­ development of a patent. Trust an im·entor Dcm·cr, A lbuq uerque, P hoenix, p ri se d to d isco1·e r t hat t here arc so many to he t he most abse nt m in ded guy t hat c\·cn and t he little tow ns between them, kinds of Indians in one state. A ll copies of a l[icld\' ~-oat could not hc,1t, so now the arc gl itter ing jc\1-c ls against t he black of night, you r ,nagaz.inc arc ,·cry popular. A,uzo:--1 ,1 !ct~cr is i'ost and I must start w here I left red, green, yell ow, c rystal w hite. I J 1c 111 v,1vs must be one of the best ambassa­ \1·hi ch \1 ·as to than k you for the splend id A lo ng the /\'la in Streets of the li ttle towns dors our counrrv has, because your magazine copies you were kin d enough to send me arc ropes and c hain s of neon li ghts. is k111J11 ·11 and ·admired c,·crywhcrc in the and wh ich were fu ll y appreciated 1 can tell A II the jewels of the Indi an Princes, world. you. J\,l y wife and self pored m-cr every de­ t he d iamonds Frances Ldncy tail. Sh e was delighted as an artist weaver to from South African mines, Bogor, Indonesia disc01-cr t he method of the Navajos for a year's product from the gem cutters of \1'c:11· ing their blankets. W it h a professio nal A mstcrdam, • Ari~m1a /.,as a large lndia'l7 JJ01mlatiun . 011r eve she im111cd iarcly spotted t he trick by t he hidden treasures of song and story! tribes arc bcco'llling 'l//ore and 'l//ore i'lll­ s~cing the picture of t he Indian woman i n Bor ne o n a magic carpet, fJurtrmt in tbe li/e and ecu'l70'l//Y of ti.le state. front of her ,·e rtica l l oom. She immediately I look down on all the rrcasure of t he world, started puttin g it in practice and made suc h under t he sea, un der the land, RLUT', !ON 11\' CLNLVA: a beautiful model t hat it was taken by in t he forgotten caves of dreams. C hr isti an D ior, one of the most important . .. I thought you m ig ht like to hear about I-I ail Ediso n ,111cl the in candescent' bulb Maison de couture in Paris and c,-cn the a rather unique scn·icc pe rformed b y and a ll the electricians that fo ll owed him! world oYer, w ho w ill show it in hi s next A ,uzoNA l---11r:111v .1v s la st summer. Sc,·eral Main Street stretches farther and farther, coll ection . .. A ll this t hrough AR IZONA yea rs ago 111 y parents made friends w it h a and t he cluster ed li g hts of t he crossroads l-l1 c1-1WAYs ? Isn't life a huge joke? young French girl named Jacqueli ne Ber­ are ea rr ings hung on the black rrecs of night. J ean Guic hard du Plessis thelot, who w as srn cl y ing law in t he States, Denver, A lbuq uerque, Phoenix, Lpcrnon w hen she and t11 ·n fr iends stopped at their you arc queens wc,iring your jewels proudly E ure ct Loir, France motel in Holbrook, on their way t hrough against the IJ! ackness of thi s nig ht. A rizona. She came from t he region of • TV e tliank our friends in France for their - FLO RIDA WATTS SMYTH ·1 faurc Sanlic, ne,ir Gcncrn. T hen, last interest in our 'l//agazine. spring, a young playwri g ht 11:111 1cd Michel Vin:11·cr, and his w ife, C:1the ri nc, w ho arc DESERT M A GIC D[SERT TUNNEL: fr iends of ,nine ,·is itcd us at our ranch How still so uthwest of Holb rook. (They spent their . .. Than k you for puiJli shing· t he inter­ The desert n ight. short 1·acation in l\cw York C ity, i\lexico esting account of T ucson's Desert Museum A coolness rests t he earth; City, and Holbrook, Arizona, insisting that Tunnel Lxposition in your splendid January Peace reigns. .--\rizon:1 11 ·:1s the best p:1rt of the trip.) 1\ ly iss ue. We h:11"c long awaircd an arricle on How vast its canopy of stars, pa renrs told t hem :1lrn ut J ackie, w ho li,·cd t his subject written by Wi ll iam H. Carr, in the s:rnic region in Fr:rncc. List su ,rn ncr \1 ·ho was entire ly responsible for the con­ -LALU S. MONROE they all mer in Gene, a, Switzerland in thi s ception, design and foll ow-through of th is ma nner, quoting from Jackie's letter: " . . . I unique underground structure. /\ Ir. Carr was BONANZA D AYS ha, c been ,·err pl eased to hear of yo u w hen the Founder and first D irector of the Desert Once t he town was r oaring wild. meeting our fri ends of A nnccy in Cencrn. 1\l use um. ln far Bonanza days It was fu n. \ ,Ve 11·e1-c ho ld ing the magazin e In one of your picture caprio ns you have From scope and tunnel Fortune smiled, A RI ZO NA l-1 IGI f \V_.\ YS in our hands so WC demoted a pa ir of ferrets to gophers. T here Barin g t he shini ng maze cou ld identify e,1ch other' ... T he \' in a- should he goph'ers in t he tunn el an yway. Of treasure w here the m iner's drill 1·c rs told me about the ,·cry pleasa nt time Perhaps t he 1\luscu111 people w ill ta ke your Probed the mountain 's t hews., they spent in r\rizona. If only we could h:ll" C hint! And J erry L y nch rode clo w n the hill seen 111orc of it ..." A rthur N . P ack, President On a horse w ith sih·er shoes. /\ 'lrs. J . C. Jeffers Arizona-Sonora Dese rt Muse um H o lbrook, A rizona Tucson, A ri zo na A nd now from ruined winze and raise The town, deserted, hears • A little maga:::,ine gets arunnd in ct small • O ur l.m711bl e apologies tu the ferret fmnily No echo of Bonanza days world. in t/.Je D esert Tunnel. Or the lords of rough frontiers. For, where t he Lode di ed, all is still Sa,·c the g hostli est of "Wahoos 1" OPPOSITE PAGE As Jerry Lynch rides dow n rhc hi ll One hi s horse w ith sil ver shoes. SoN01111N RAccoo1s - Procyrm lotor 'l//exicmms- The raccoon is easi ly identified 1, y his black 111a sk and r in ged ta il. I le is found in all the Southwestern states, making his home in rough -ETHLL JACOBSON canyons and brushy bottoms near running water. T he coon's track is di stinctive and is sa id to rese mble a c hild's footprint. T he coon is omni, orous, probablv preferring fi sh but h is diet w ill also include acorns, berries, cactus fruits, ,111d mesquite beans, w hi ch he relishes. Rodents MINE and smal l game make up a s ma ll percent of his di et. The nig ht and the stars arc mine, A nd t he sigh of t he w in d. T he carpet of g rass BAC K COVER That cushions rn y tread B11ncrn- T axidea tax11s- round throughout the Southwest, his main d iet consists of rodenrs And the rustle of lea vcs and occasiona ll )· a bird or bird eggs. H e nrakcs his home in butT011 ·s dug in all111·ial so il s. T hat shelter m y head The badger is 11 ·ell k11011 ·11 for his dcfensi,·c 11 ·c:1pons, w hich include long, rakin g claws, Are m ine, and t he night's, and the w ind's. sharp teeth, and loose ski n. I-l e is usual ly avoided by all other predators in his territory . - En-rnL E. M rrcHELL * P AG E THl'llTY-SI :X • J\ Ill Z O N A FI I G l-1'\ ' A Y S • MJ\ltCII, I 959