Grand Alaska Part Ii: Anchorage, Denali, and the Kenai Peninsula
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GRAND ALASKA PART II: ANCHORAGE, DENALI, AND THE KENAI PENINSULA JUNE 16–24, 2021 Varied Thrush, Seward, Alaska, June 21, 2021 ©Barry Zimmer LEADERS: BARRY ZIMMER & ERIK BRUHNKE LIST COMPILED BY: BARRY ZIMMER VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM Grand Alaska Part II: Anchorage, Denali, and the Kenai Peninsula June 16–24, 2021 By Barry Zimmer Once again, our Grand Alaska Part II tour was a huge success. From boreal forest birds in the Denali region to spruce forest dwellers around Seward to wonderful seabirds in Kenai Fjords National Park, our avian list was superb. Additionally, we had wonderful mammal viewing throughout the trip and Denali in full view on two days! What more could you ask for? Arctic Tern, Anchorage, Alaska, June 17, 2021 ©Barry Zimmer Our tour began with a full day of birding in and around Anchorage. Our first stop was at Westchester Lagoon, where we tallied many nesting Red-necked Grebes (in gorgeous breeding plumage), four Bald Eagles, abundant Arctic Terns, and an Orange-crowned Warbler nearly in our laps, among many others. From there we headed to Potter Marsh just south of town. A majestic pair of Trumpeter Swans topped the list, but we also added Ring-necked Duck, a few Red-necked Phalaropes, and very close Alder Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Grand Alaska Part II, 2021 Flycatcher and Lincoln’s Sparrow. A quick stop at Kincaid Park before lunch yielded a nice Swainson’s Thrush and a Moose so close to our van that we could almost scratch it! After lunch, we headed down towards Girdwood. Along Turnagain Arm, we found the expected Dall’s Sheep on the high cliffs, as well as some very unexpected Beluga Whales right next to the highway (thanks Sarah!). Stunning Varied Thrushes and a brilliant Townsend’s Warbler at eye level at Crow Creek, and some after dinner Hudsonian Godwits back at Westchester rounded out the day. Denali (Mount McKinley), Alaska, June 20, 2021 ©Barry Zimmer The next day, we headed north towards the Denali region. En route we birded an area known as the Sockeye Burn. Even before we reached the burn proper, we were fortunate to have a rare Black-backed Woodpecker make three passes across the highway as we watched. A short while later, we found a responsive pair of American Three-toed Woodpeckers and a Boreal Chickadee that almost landed on my speaker! Overshadowing the great birds, though, was the view of Denali as we headed north. From the moment we passed the town of Willow, we had full views of the mountain with no obstructing clouds all the way to lunch! In June, these conditions are present only 10% of the time! A few roadside stops en route to Denali Village yielded a lovely pair of Red-throated Loons, a few Buffleheads, a flyby Bohemian Waxwing, and a very cooperative Blackpoll Warbler. A successful “travel day” indeed! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Grand Alaska Part II, 2021 The following day was spent inside Denali National Park on the park sponsored Tundra Wilderness Tour. This trip is primarily for mammal viewing and scenery, and it did not disappoint. Four Grizzly Bears, four Moose, over 150 Caribou, and 40+ Dall’s Sheep were the main attractions. We did manage several birds of interest as well, including a male Willow Ptarmigan right next to the bus, five or more Golden Eagles, and an unexpected Northern Wheatear among others. After some time off followed by an early dinner, we ventured out on the Denali Highway for the first time. A tip from Jake led us to scope views of a distant Northern Hawk Owl (a difficult and irregular species) and another flyby Bohemian Waxwing to finish off our wonderful day! Willow Ptarmigan, Denali NP, Alaska, June 19, 2021 ©Barry Zimmer We returned to the Denali Highway the next morning and were able to re-find the Hawk Owl for those who were not with us the previous evening. Other highlights included another pair of Trumpeter Swans, two male Barrow’s Goldeneyes, a White-winged Scoter, a pair of Solitary Sandpipers in spruce trees, a tenacious Least Sandpiper that valiantly defended its territory, a family group of Canada Jays, and a male Rusty Blackbird. Also, Denali was, once again, in full view from the moment we got on the highway! The remainder of the afternoon was spent uneventfully cruising back to Anchorage. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Grand Alaska Part II, 2021 Northern Hawk Owl, Denali Highway, Alaska, June 19, 2021 ©Barry Zimmer The final leg of our journey was a visit to the Kenai Peninsula. Heading southward, we hit the Girdwood area again, adding Hermit Thrush, “Northwestern” Crow, and, most important, fresh blueberry fritters! A roadside stop, as we entered the Kenai, yielded “Harlan’s” Red-tailed Hawk, Varied Thrush, and “Sooty” Fox Sparrow. At Granite Creek, we had a very close Golden-crowned Sparrow. We stopped along the highway for scope views of Mountain Goats before we headed to Seward for lunch. After lunch, we enjoyed a wonderful family group of American Dippers at Bear Creek, not to mention the numerous Sockeye Salmon jumping up the waterfall at the weir. We finished off our day at a private residence, where we tallied Rufous Hummingbird, Hairy and Downy woodpeckers, the kenaiensis Song Sparrow, many Pine Siskins, and fleeting views of a Pine Grosbeak. A brief post-dinner option to Lowell Point proved highly successful with a Sea Otter no more than 30 feet away, and Pigeon Guillemot, Marbled Murrelet, and a very close Varied Thrush as avian highlights. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Grand Alaska Part II, 2021 “Sooty” Fox Sparrow, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska, June 21, 2021 ©Barry Zimmer A nine-hour boat trip into Kenai Fjords National Park and the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge was on tap for the next day. Despite some drizzly, cold conditions, we had spectacular success! We saw virtually all of the hoped-for seabirds, including hundreds of Horned and Tufted puffins; Common and Thick-billed murres; Red-faced Cormorant; Marbled, Kittlitz’s (great views), and Ancient murrelets; and Parakeet and Rhinoceros (unusually scarce this year) auklets. The mammals were also amazing with Humpback (one individual breaching eight times right next to the boat) and Killer (pod of eight) whales, Steller’s Sea Lions, and numerous Harbor Seals and Sea Otters. Additionally, Northwestern Glacier was calving very actively, so we had spectacular viewing of large chunks of ice crashing into the water. This was an all-around incredible day! Our final day was largely devoted to travel and packing, but we did some early morning birding around Seward. A family group of nine Chestnut-backed Chickadees stole the show, but we also saw Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned kinglets (with crests raised and at eye level), Steller’s Jay in the Wells Fargo parking lot, and several White-winged Crossbills; and we had slam dunk views of six Pine Grosbeaks. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Grand Alaska Part II, 2021 Pine Grosbeak, Seward, Alaska, June 23, 2021 ©Barry Zimmer In all, we tallied 111 species of birds for the tour, 15 species of mammals, and countless breathtaking scenic vistas. Our time in the Last Frontier was simply epic! ITINERARY June 16 – arrival in Anchorage June 17 – hotel grounds, Westchester Lagoon, Potter Marsh, Kincaid Park, drive to Girdwood along Turnagain Arm, Crow Creek Mine Road (42 species) June 18 – drive to Denali National Park via the Parks Highway with stops at the Sockeye Burn and the MP 206 pond (36 species; 58 total) June 19 – Denali National Park shuttle bus ride to Stony Pass (MP 62); evening excursion on Denali Highway to MP 122 (22 species; 70 total) June 20 – Denali Highway to MP 108, drive to Anchorage along Parks Highway (45 species; 77 total) Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Grand Alaska Part II, 2021 June 21 – Anchorage to Seward with stops at Girdwood (Crow Creek Mine Road), Granite Creek Campground, Bear Creek, and Ava’s house off Nash Road; post-dinner trip to Lowell Point Road (47 species; 89 total) June 22 – all-day boat trip from Resurrection Bay to Kenai Fjords National Park, Northwestern Fjord and the Chiswell Islands (part of the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge) (33 species; 108 total) June 23 – Nash Woods, Two Lakes Trail (Ravina Road), Ava’s house, Trail River Campground, Upper Summit Lake, drive to Anchorage (43 species; 111 total) June 24 - departures for home (111 total species) Denali (Mount McKinley), Alaska, June 20, 2021 ©Barry Zimmer KEY Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Grand Alaska Part II, 2021 A = Anchorage and surrounding areas (Potter Marsh, Turnagain Arm, Girdwood, etc.) D = Denali National Park, Denali Hwy, and Parks Hwy north of Wasilla S = Seward, Kenai Fjords National Park, Summit Lakes, Granite Creek Campground, Bear Creek, Nash Road, Trail River Campground (Kenai Peninsula) bold-faced species indicate birds of rare, casual or accidental occurrence underlined species indicate birds of very uncommon occurrence or species which occur regularly but in such low densities as to be easily missed # - indicates birds seen with babies or on nests Bald Eagle, Bear Creek, Alaska, June 21, 2021 ©Barry Zimmer BIRDS Waterfowl: Brant (Branta bernicla) S----a flock of twelve at Seward were noteworthy for this tour Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Grand Alaska Part II, 2021 Canada Goose (Branta canadensis) A---presumed to be of the small “Lesser Canada Goose” group parvipes ; # Trumpeter Swan (Cygnus buccinator) A,D,S---best at Potter Marsh & along the Denali Highway; 17 total; # Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata) A,D---several at