bike path 3,000 miles long! founding to be the perfect husband Bob as we discussed Canada to ! No moment to begin my per- this venture last December, “ way!” Only minutes into sonal pilgrimage. It would relaxing before a fire in our our two-week journey from be a chance to assess what southern home. East Coast Wilmington, Delaware, to had been accomplished over “Let’s do it a bit at a time. We’re City, we paused on a pedes- the past two decades to put not aiming to click off the miles Story and photos by Karen Votava Atrian bridge over the Brandywine River to this route in place. And it – we want a gentle, unhurried admire the historic Bancroft Mill complex, could inspire less adventur- ride, consistent with our sta- and met our first fellow users. A pair ous cyclists by showing that tus as seniors!” Our plan was of seniors (like ourselves) were out for a public transportation could to take 12 days to travel from day of cycling on the Northern Delaware enable them to cover a lon- Wilmington, Delaware, to New Greenway, a paved trail winding through ger distance, skipping over York City, folding in three days a series of parks carved from former pri- more challenging terrain. of downtime to see vate estates. Their eyes lit up to learn that We wanted to test how well and two days exploring a spur their hometown bike path was part of the public transportation would trail, the Trail. (ECG), a 3,000-mile work as an adjunct to bicycle Riding the rails to our start- traffic-free trail being established along the travel, especially with heavily ing point, we got our first Eastern Seaboard. loaded bikes. Bike-accessible chance to test the public trans- Some background: In the fall of 1991, commuter rail allowed us to portation–bicycle fit. A mile I was among a group of nine who met in reach our departure point in from our start in Park Slope, to found the East Coast Wilmington without using Brooklyn, we used a street- Greenway Alliance (ECGA). Our goal was our car, starting from our side elevator on Pacific Street to spearhead implementation of this bold small apartment in Park Slope, to take us and our bikes to the vision for a -to- bike path. I Brooklyn. subway platform below. There, had a personal stake in seeing this vision For accommodations we we boarded the #2 subway to realized in that it could expand cycling were not going to rough it with camp- reach Penn Station in where possibilities right in our backyard. But I ing and hostels. We’d use low-cost hotels we caught a Transit commuter also had a professional interest. As direc- and bed down with friends. And we also train to Trenton. “No one even seemed tor of open space planning for the New wanted to try out airbnb.com, a new B&B to notice us” said Bob. “You would think York City Planning Department, I served service we’d read about that seemed like loaded bike tourists were an everyday sight as chief author of the 1993 Greenway Plan a good way to find friendly accommoda- in the city.” for New York City, a blueprint for 350 miles tions close to biking routes (most franchise After a change of trains in Trenton, from of bicycle crisscrossing America’s hotels tend to be on busy highways, away New Jersey Transit to Philadelphia’s Septa largest city (now largely implemented). It from the ECG route.) With the ECG more line, we were on our way to 30th Street was a short leap to envision linking New Station in Philadelphia. There we changed York City’s greenway system to a route that yet again to the Septa train that would take would connect people from New York to us to Wilmington. Elevators existed for all destinations as far north as Maine or south level changes except one on the route from all the way to Florida. Penn Station to Wilmington, and thanks Our vision was to link local trails to to excellent connections, it took only three form a largely off-road pathway, slicing and a half hours! (Sadly, Amtrak does not through cities and towns and stretching yet accommodate bikes on their Northeast from Canada to Key West. It should go Corridor route.) directly through downtowns, linking pop- ulation centers with popular destinations. The Northern Delaware Greenway It would serve users of all abilities, travel- On a day that began with rain but ing by many modes — recreational cyclists, soon brightened, we headed out on our families with kids, walkers, folks in wheel- loaded bikes from the Doubletree Hotel on

chairs, on horseback, or on skates. It would King Street and followed it a few blocks casey greene offer a unique opportunity to discover, at a north along the on-street ECG route to the leisurely pace, a part of America full of his- complete in the Mid-Atlantic region, there Brandywine River. Just after crossing a tory, culture, architecture spanning several would be more miles of trail to experience. bridge we passed our first ECG trail marker, centuries, industrial ruins, and stunning And there was the richness of the built directing us to turn left into Brandywine natural landscapes. environment along this most urbanized Park, one of a number of parks designed by Serving for 15 years as the execu- stretch of the greenway, its detail lost to Frederick Law Olmsted that we would visit tive director of the East Coast Greenway people speeding along I-95. Hidden to them along our route. Here in the Brandywine Alliance, I have long dreamed of cycling is the wealth of history, culture, and ethnic Gorge, begins the nine-mile-long Northern the entire route of the ECG. Now retired, I dining options just off the highway. Delaware Greenway, which would take us found the 20th anniversary of the ECGA’s “3,000 miles is a lot of cycling,” said my close to the border. The trail followed the river past the Brandywine followed the Governor Printz Boulevard a Zoo. Above towered a forest of stately few miles to the Claymont Septa train sta- trees, and the stone and steel arches of a tion. With an early-evening appointment in series of venerable highway and rail bridges Philadelphia, we chose to skip cycling the soared overhead. Only blocks from down- (currently) largely on-road route into the town Wilmington, the landscape verged on city. This was the only time we had to carry wildness, but it was also studded with the our bikes down and up — through a tunnel remnants of its industrial past, including a — to the northbound track. A short, raised series of mill buildings now converted to platform at the front of the train accom- upscale condos. After crossing a delicate modated wheelchair users (the American’s pedestrian suspension bridge, the route with Disabilities Act legislation aimed at soon moved on to the street. It climbed past serving the disabled has been a boon to a series of handsome early 20th-century cyclists). This platform enabled us to enter homes once belonging to magnates of an the train with our bikes easily, although it earlier era and the Delaware Museum of meant we entered through the engineer’s Art, before dropping down to the river and road can involve hills, but as new sections with white tail tips. We continued along cabin. “Not a problem,” the courteous engi- re-entering the off-road trail. “I thought of trail are added, it will make for an ever the asphalt pathway, a curvy, hilly route neer said as he helped us maneuver our the ECG was flat,” mumbled Bob as we gentler ride. through stands of mature trees, and passed loaded bikes through the handicapped area puffed up one of the few hills of the entire “We could be in northern New several old mansions now part of this state of the passenger compartment. historic Bartram’s Garden, the 1728 home collide with a toddler in a stroller. trip along the trail as it climbed the north- Hampshire,” commented Bob from our park, including Rockford and Bellevue “How nice, another elevator to the of America’s first botanist). Hugging the Passing under the Benjamin Franklin ern bank of the Brandywine. The ECG is perch on a large rock outcropping along Houses. Arriving at Cauffield House at the street!” Bob murmured as we exited at river, this paved trail, virtually all off-road, Parkway Bridge, a feast of architectural actually a remarkably flat route, consisting the rushing water of the creek. We were end of the trail, the woods opened to reveal the University City Septa stop near the is heavily used by a mix of cyclists, skaters, styles stretched before us. Rising on our largely of former rail corridors, riverfront enjoying a picnic lunch, amused by the the in the distance below. University of Pennsylvania. There, we walkers, runners, and other more passive right was the massive Beaux-Arts style paths, and canal towpaths. Sections still on cavorting of several strange gray squirrels Coasting down to the river level, we joined students and commuters head- users such as artists with their easels. It Philadelphia Museum of Fine Arts. Shortly, ing home from downtown Philadelphia serves commuters, is a recreational venue for on the left along the river, came the historic along a well-marked bike lane, cycling families, and is Philadelphia’s most popular mid-19th-century Nuts & Bolts: Delaware to New York City about two miles to spend the night in route for racing cyclists. This mix of users complex, a notable collection of neoclassi- West Philadelphia with an old ECGA col- presents challenges, demonstrating the need cal style structures. Soon Boat House Row Our Trip Statistics: Eight total sun screen. Prepare for heat and league and friend, Alice Wells. Alice had to enforce speed limits on bike paths nation- appeared, a series of buildings belonging to cycling days, 23.5 average miles humidity in summer and traffic been among the movers and shakers who wide. We witnessed a speeding cyclist almost college and private crew clubs and offering per day, 188 total miles cycled on some of the longer unfinished launched the ECG in its early days and is (99 miles on paved trail, 45 miles road sections (we cut them out part of Philadelphia’s active and effective on unpaved trail, 44 on road). by using trains.) bicycle advocacy community. Philadelphia has faced many obstacles to Getting there & away: We Expenses: Total cost for two moving the ECG route off-road. Although began in Wilmington. Our route was $1,700, including an extra the city had a number of excellent bike closely follows the Amtrak (not three days spent in Philadelphia, paths in place when the idea of an ECG was bike accessible) and Southeast for a total of 12 days. Trains born, only a short section of the Schuylkill Pennsylvania Transportation were half-fare for seniors, free River Trail has worked into the routing for Authority and New Jersey in Philadelphia. Airbnb aver- the ECG. But, with the leadership of Bob Transit lines (bike accessible). age cost: $60/night. The chief Thomas, an architect and bike-path planner Philadelphia Airport serves expense for us was food. based in Philadelphia, and the assistance Wilmington. The New York air- of many other organizations, agencies, and ports serve to access the north Maps & wayfinding tools: volunteers, a largely off-road route is grad- end. Spiral bound maps with cue ually developing. In five years, much of it tions are advised. We used Intermodal transportation sheets for the entire route (two will be in place. Equipment/gear: To ride Airbnb (airbnb.com) for three used: Two ferry crossings, one separate volumes, one for unpaved trails, a bike with 28 to nights, a home exchange, a stay subway, six commuter train seg- Pennsylvania and Delaware and The 38 millimeter smooth-tread tires with a friend in Philadelphia, ments for the round trip journey. one for New Jersey) are available The ECG links to many spur trails is recommended, although stan- hotels on three nights, hostels in at ECGA online: greenway.org. that expand bicycle touring opportuni- dard road bike tires can suffice. Philadelphia and New York City. When to go: Spring and fall are The route is also mapped on ties. Because I’ve long wanted to cycle the Camping may be possible but a the best times to ride. Summer Google Maps and cue sheets Schuylkill River Trail (SRT), we set off early Accommodations & ser- challenge to locate near the trail. can be hot and humid. Fall means posted on ECGA’s website. in the morning on a two-day journey, plan- vices: As an urban route, it’s shorter days but less chance of New Jersey is very well signed ning a stop overnight in Valley Forge, a replete with food, bike shops, Bike rental: Bike and Roll rent- rain. with ECG markers. We used our modest 20.5 miles each way, leaving plenty and accommodations, although als in New York City can be iPhone GPS program frequently of time to enjoy the sights en route. We Wilmington had no B&Bs and taken on the train to Wilmington Advice & precautions: to clarify routing. Developing departed from downtown, across from the only pricier hotels close to the and returned at the end (bike Services are ample but carry an app for mobile devices is 30th Street Amtrak station on a newly com- start point. Advance reserva- newyorkcity.com). water, and take bug spray and ECGA’s goal for 2013. pleted southerly extension of the SRT (it will soon bring the ECG farther south to

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 a playful mix of diverse architectural styles. between Philadelphia and New York City, it evening near the campus when we stayed Scores of high-school crew teams from was an inspiration for the ECG vision. in a comfortable room in university hous- A BAG FOR around the country were setting up for We entered the canal towpath soon after ing built in the late 1940s for returning the colorful, annual Stotesbury Cup high- crossing the . At first, GIs. Our hostess was a graduate student in school rowing regatta weekend. The trail the path was narrow, rough, and glass- molecular biology, and we got acquainted EVERY BIKE AND continued through a series of historic mill strewn, a reflection of the city itself, still that evening in her kitchen over Chinese towns. Among the many dining options, struggling with poverty and abandonment, a take-out. EVERY USE. we chose to lunch at a funky taquería, then far cry from its heyday as a capital of indus- We set off the next morning to com- continued on to Valley Forge, which we try. That industry is mostly gone, although a plete our journey on the D&R towpath. reached in late afternoon. sign on its Lower Trenton Bridge still claims, It appeared to have relatively low usage With a night of rest at a local motel, we “Trenton Makes, the World Takes.” except when it ran close to population cen- began exploring Valley Forge Historic Park. Following the towpath as it snaked ters like Princeton and New Brunswick. Under the management of the National Park through Trenton, we paused to gaze up at a Because the unpaved surface eliminates Service, this expansive landscape with its statue of George Washington on a tall col- fast cyclists who favor paved trails, we saw sweeping meadows is reminiscent of an umn adjacent to the route. A short detour mostly walkers, many out with their dogs. English country garden. Our bikes enabled took us to the nearby historic Trenton We came upon a group of elderly walk- us to cover it all in a few hours. We paid a Barracks where guides dressed in period ers, members of a club that meets every symbolic visit to George Washington at the costume shared the story of Washington’s Wednesday, dressed in serious hiking garb house where he spent the winter of 1777-78, historic crossing of the Delaware River and with walking sticks, and pants tucked into Cycling through parks to Newark the state, which takes the ECG through this a year after his crossing of the Delaware the Battle of Trenton, where Washington socks to deter ticks. The trail improved New Jersey has been the most aggressive densely developed older urban/suburban River, and picnicked at Varnum Hill, where defeated Cornwallis, a turning point in the considerably after a few miles with a new state in promoting the development of the part of northern New Jersey. It is an inge- our Rhode Island troops wintered. Then Revolutionary War. stone dust surface stretching all the way ECG under the remarkable leadership of the nious route, taking a series of existing path- we retraced our route back to Philadelphia. The rough route through Trenton soon to the trail’s terminus in New Brunswick. New Jersey Department of Transportation ways through county parks that were the After several days prowling turned into a smooth new asphalt path. Crossing the Raritan River to Highland and its bicycle program manager, Sheree vision of Olmsted in the early 20th century. Philadelphia’s historic streets on foot and Then it turned again to stone dust for Park we arrived at our second Airbnb Davis, with strong advocacy by volunteers New trails are still being added. We tra- feasting on its cultural riches (the new the remainder of the 34.3 miles into New overnight, the upper floors of a large frame like Mike and Anne Kruimer. The entire versed Roosevelt Park, passed the Thomas Barnes Collection building was just open- Brunswick, the route’s condition varying house. Our hosts were two welcoming ECG route across the state is completely A. Edison Memorial Tower, cycled through ing on Benjamin Franklin Parkway), we according to the effects of recent weather. young women, and a range of tempting res- signed and is, therefore, easy to follow. We Nomahegan Park, and then entered the put our bikes on New Jersey’s new River To Princeton and for a number of miles taurants was only a few blocks away. followed a route designed with the help of recently completed lush, green Line light rail in Camden to reach the beyond, there were a lot of soft, muddy, Trenton area. puddled areas. Although the state tries to After overnighting in Morrisville, resurface this pathway, storms sometimes Pennsylvania, we set off the next morn- cause serious washouts. It is an ongoing Hand crafted in Lancashire, Join us for a western route from Glacier England, providing quality cycle ing, following a canal towpath toward the struggle. For those wanting a hard surface, Calhoun Street Bridge, which suddenly there is a nearby on-road route shown on National Park to Yellowstone National Park luggage for over 80 years. loomed before us. This historic iron truss the ECGA New Jersey map, but you would Carradice is the choice for bridge, a fragile-looking structure that miss the bucolic experience of coasting worldwide cycling expeditions, crosses the Delaware River to New Jersey, under the leafy green tree canopy of the Sept. 9-13, 2013 was constructed by the Phoenix Bridge towpath. This was a special treat in early Info: www.park2parkmontana.org commuting and touring. Company in 1884. Listed on the National summer with the fragrant aromas of roses Register of Historic Places, it was com- and honeysuckle that line the trail. Wildlife Call: 1-866-863-2272 or (406) 443-2448 pletely restored in 2010, including a fresh abounded. Occasionally, muskrats skittered E-mail: infopark2park@gmail Experience the difference coat of soft green paint and re-decking of into the bushes, families of ducks floated at a dealer near you. the narrow wooden pedestrian walkway. by, flocks of Canada geese encroached on Facebook: Park-2-Park Montana Dismounting, we paused to survey the the trail, dozens of turtles perched on logs, broad and slow-moving Delaware River and in one spot, three snakes wound them- flowing under us from the north. To the selves in a ball on a tree branch, catching specialist for bike tours in Central Europe south rose the golden dome of the New the early-morning sun. Jersey State House. We rolled into Princeton around noon Visit Central Europe – a paradise for cycling and indulged ourselves with generous- Surprising density of ancient castles Vienna to Prague Greenways New Jersey’s D&R Canal Towpath sized hamburgers and mugs of draft beer & fairy–tale chateaux Salzburg to Prague The Delaware & Raritan Canal, now at the Witherspoon Grill. The afternoon www.carradice.co.uk Beautiful and varied countryside Vienna to Krakow Amber Trail part of a New Jersey state park, is a system was consumed with exploring the main Excellent network of paved backroads Budapest to Krakow Amber Trail of canals built in the early 1800s to trans- Princeton University campus, inspecting Quality accommodation Passau to Vienna Danube Trail port coal from the Pennsylvania fields to some of the newer architecture that has led Easy and convenient self-guided tours Vienna to Budapest Danube Trail North American Distribution by Philadelphia and New York City. The D&R to college campuses recently racking up Guided tours with local guides

Belmont Distribution Canal Trail, stretching from Trenton to large debts, and taking a brief peek into the 8-day to 10-day tours Prague to Dresden

www.belmontdistribution.com New Brunswick, is one of the few links in excellent (and free) Princeton University Visit www.topbicycle.com for trip descriptions, dates and prices. For a free brochure, email us [email protected] the ECG that existed back in 1991. By con- Art Museum. stituting more than half of the connection We had our first Airbnb experience that Czech Republic Slovakia Austria Hungary Germany Poland

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG inzerat_Top_bicycle.indd 1 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG15.2.2008 16:51:31 39 Trail, opened in October 2011. Although we toward downtown, we made a Dunkin’ 1&9, an elevated truck route. It’s four lanes reminds me of the Eiffel Tower.” Dating to did experience some on-road sections with Donuts breakfast stop. A pair of older men, of constant, fast-moving, heavy truck traf- the 1920s, and needing major investment, heavy traffic (but with decent shoulders), truck drivers grabbing morning coffee, fic, and a gritty and grimy artery. Thanks sadly it is now threatened with demolition. for the most part the route wound its way were amused. “Really, you cycled all the to her perseverance, a road-separated bike Touching down in Jersey City’s historic through quiet residential neighborhoods. way from Wilmington?!” one said. path of about four miles had just been com- Lincoln Park, a pathway system took us Much of it took a scenic course following Newark’s streets were in surprisingly pleted. It’s a concrete pathway edged by back to city streets, and we headed upland the Rahway River, using park trails com- good condition. But, as we pedaled along, guard rails to protect cyclists from passing through neighborhoods of brick town- bined with local low-traffic streets to reach we passed evidence of both decay and traffic. Using pre-existing walkways on houses and brownstones. Some areas were Newark. renewal, shuttered housing projects next the two bridges that cross the Passaic and struggling and others had been gentrified, Our overnight Airbnb stop in Newark to shiny new high schools. Deferred to a Hackensack rivers, it passes though South reflecting the resurgence that Jersey City, was located on a side street adjacent to future trip were stops at the many notable Kearny in between. We were eager to be like so many American cities, is experi- Olmsted’s historic Weequahic Park. The institutions in downtown Newark: The among the first persons to cycle it! encing. After lunching across from City street was alive with residents of all ages. New Jersey Institute of Technology, the Leaving Newark’s Penn Station, we fol- Hall at The Merchant, a quiet pub, we Our B&B hostess, a young South African Newark Museum, Newark Public Library, lowed the well-signed route along Ferry coasted down to the water- woman named Eliane, emerged from her and the New Jersey Performing Arts Street for several miles through the leg- front where a public access walkway allows townhouse and helped us park our bikes in Center, as we pushed on to Newark’s Penn endary Iron Bound District, home to you to travel north to Hoboken or south to the rear. We lugged our bags upstairs into Station with our goal of reaching Brooklyn Portuguese immigrants and now a huge , with phenomenal views her charming renovated apartment. Eliane by day’s end. Latino population. This lively street is lined of Lower Manhattan. Instead we chose to is engaged in a project to develop a new The separates with food markets and excellent ethnic catch the ferry across the Hudson River to green hotel near Weequahic Park, part of Newark from Jersey City. Until now, only restaurants. Suddenly, we found ourselves in 1991 when we first advocated for an the adjacent residential neighborhoods. The Lower Manhattan’s World Financial Center the rejuvenation of Newark. a few roads, none open to cyclists, offered in a spaghetti tangle of elevated highways, urban greenway system. Meadowlands is slowly being reclaimed in Battery Park City where we made a a crossing aligned with the ECG route, so as trucks entered and exited the Route Once up on Route 1&9, spread before for its natural qualities, but the built envi- short stop at the Winter Garden. Climbing Crossing the New Jersey Meadowlands cyclists were required to take (bike-acces- 1&9 viaduct that also now serves cyclists us was a spectacular view over the Jersey ronment is what grabs your attention. the marble interior steps, we surveyed the Traveling from Newark to New York sible) public transit from Newark’s Penn and walkers. Excellent signage led us up a Meadowlands, a huge wetland fed by Paralleling us on the north and dominating always sobering view of the Ground Zero City, the final day of our journey, proved Station to Jersey City (or New York City). ramp, and we were surprised at how safe the Passaic and Hackensack rivers, For the scene was the Pulaski Skyway, a giant site. Crowds flooded the 911 Memorial. to be the highlight of our trip. We were But New Jersey’s state bicycle program this route felt despite the heavy truck traf- decades, it has been home to a fascinat- aging “erector set” viaduct that carries Cranes were busily adding steel and glass to among the first to cycle a new piece of the manager, Sheree Davis, was undaunted. fic just at our elbows. Being part of such a ing mix of industrial and warehousing the car traffic for Route 1&9 across the the 1,776-foot-tall Freedom Tower, now the ECG that I had thought I would not see She found more than a million dollars to gritty industrial environment on a bicycle uses, truck depots, storage yards, jails, Meadowlands. Bob’s fascination with this in my lifetime. Pedaling through Newark upgrade the best option for cyclists: Route is part of what we all had envisioned back and myriad other activities excluded from feat of engineering elicited from me: “It continued on page 62

VAYA TRAVEL NOTO PENINSULA, JAPAN Cherry blossoms celebrate the return of spring in glorious, but fleeting, beauty. Photo by KID

40 ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST APRIL 2013 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 41 continued from page 41 Brooklyn asphalt. In was only a short ride classified ads on local streets back to our start in Park continued tallest building in New York City. Rising Slope, to the little garage tucked behind a Open Road Gallery skyward from its base at Ground Zero, row of brownstones where we had parked the steely grayness of the Freedom Tower our car. In three hours, we were home in Bike the Katy Trail — The longest Rails-to-Trails in the country. September is an impressive sight. Its very existence Rhode Island. 1-7, 2013. All-inclusive luxurious seven is a tribute to the determination of New Our trip demonstrated the excellent high potential day/six night tour staying at quaint B&Bs Yorkers to put the tragedy of 911 behind nexus between bikes and public transpor- by Madeline McKiddy Photograph by Greg Siple and Historic Hotels. Complete details from BubbasPamperedPedalers.com. them. tation in this region and confirmed for me We soon set off along the Route 9A the enormous progress made over the past September Escapade™ TRIRI® – bike path, a first-class dual bike/pedestrian 20 years to move this audacious vision for- September 15-20, 2013. Scenic, historic tour pathway built 20 years ago as part of an ward. With 27.5 percent of its 3,000 miles You can learn more at of south central Indiana with inn or camping at-grade boulevard replacing the old West now off road, and an additional 18 percent www.spokenrevolutions.org overnights at Indiana State Parks, two layover days, and ten catered meals. Contact: 812-333- Side Highway. It is part of the nearly com- at some level of development, this treasure 8176; [email protected]; or www.triri.org. plete water’s edge pathway that allows you demands to be discovered by bicycle trav- to cycle around Manhattan Island almost elers of all stripes. With 3,000 miles of fun AMERICA BY BICYCLE, INC. — Your full entirely on traffic-free paths. This is part of to choose from, you might want to experi- service bicycle touring leader. Chose from 38 tours ranging from 5 to 52 days. Let us take the grand commitment by the Bloomberg ence it yourself! you on your dream ride — Coast to Coast! administration to bolster cycling in the city. abbike.com. 888-797-7057 FREE CATALOG. It brought us to the Battery where we strug- Karen Votava was a co-founder and the first gled through crowds of tourists past Battery Executive Director of the East Coast Greenway MASS BIKEPIKE TOUR — August 1-4, 2013. Alliance (ECGA) which spearheads establishment THE FRIENDLIEST RIDE IN THE EAST. Visit Park, the entrances to the , of the 3,000-mile trail linking cities from Maine to wonderful New England towns, quaint villages, Staten Island, and Governor’s Island ferries, Florida. With a BA from Douglass College and a beautiful farmland, and an option for the chal- and picked up the Esplanade to Master of City Planning from Yale University, her lenging climb up Mount Wachusett. Most meals, career was chiefly with the New York City Planning SAG, refreshment stops. www.MassBikePike. continue northward. At Pier 11, south of the South Street Seaport, we caught the Ikea Department where she authored “A Greenway Plan org or 617 710-1832. for New York City,” a blueprint for 350 miles of New York Waterways Ferry to Red Hook, greenways, now largely implemented. She is an Great Freedom Adventures — Three to Brooklyn. For five dollars, we got to view enthusiastic bicycle tourist and advocate for bicycle six day bike and multisport tours exploring Brooklyn from this water vantage point. 15 transportation. She currently lives in Rhode Island mountains, valleys, coastline and islands of and is married with three grown daughters and three New England and NY. Unsurpassed cycling minutes later, we stepped off the ferry, and through diverse regions of natural beauty, our wheels touched down once again on granddaughters. historical significance and cultural richness. www.greatfreedomadventures.com.

THE AND C&O CANAL — 334.5 continuous trail miles from to DC; custom or group tours; includes B&Bs, inns, excellent meals, luggage shuttle, full SAG support, vehicle or people and RIDE EAST gear shuttle; attractions including Frank Lloyd With 8 unique trips and 3 levels of support, there’s never been a better Wright’s , Antietam battlefield plus time to grab your bike and head east! so much more... Call Trail Gail at 301-722-4887 In 2011, Suepinda Keith and her husband, Kevin Hicks, brought together a group of high- 240-727-7039 or www.mountainsidebiketours.net Self-Contained: • Cape Cod Pilgrimage - Plymouth, . Loop I: June 15-22, potential, lower-resourced teens and struck off along Adventure Cycling’s Underground Railroad “You Pedal, We Pamper.” Loop II: September 7-14 Florida Keys - Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, November 9-19. • Bicycle Route from Mobile, Alabama, to Niagara Falls, New York. Kevin remembers, “We only 22nd Annual OATBRAN — One Awesome Inn-to-Inn: • Bar Harbor - Bangor, Maine, June 8-15 • Lake Champlain - Burlington, camped out about three days in total. We stayed with station masters, people who put us up for the , August 3-10 Vermont - Burlington, Vermont, October 5-11. Tour Bike Ride Across Nevada, Sept. 22-28. • night.” 2013. “America’s Loneliest Bike Tour” is a fully Fully-Supported: Blue Ridge Bliss - Front Royal, Virgina, June 1-7 Freedom Flyer - supported motel-style tour across US Hwy 50, • • “The tour was such a success we decided to try again in 2012 on a new route — Adventure Washington, DC, 420 miles, border to border, from Lake Tahoe June 26-July 4. Cycling’s Lewis and Clark Bicycle Trail — but this time we included more camping and became a to the Great Basin National Park. Limited to 50 nonprofit. Our focus was to get low-income minority youth on bikes, exploring the great outdoors riders. For more info: BiketheWest.com. adventurecycling.org/toursmag and national parks,” Suepinda said. The group was challenged both mentally and physically, learn- ing leadership skills Suepinda and Kevin believe will help the kids excel in college and throughout Escapades Bike Tours — Have Fun — Get Pampered! All Levels — Fully Supported. life, and both tours focused heavily on the history of the selected route. Arizona Sonoran Desert, GA/SC Low Country, “I learned that there were over 200 treaties between the Native American nations and the U.S. Cape Cod, VT/NY Yankee Doddle Toodle, goverment; not one was honored,” 17-year-old Jeimy remembers. “I got the chance to experience the Maine Islands, Hudson Valley, Lake Champlain Roundabout, Texas Hill Country, Natchez Trace. effects of how the Native American identity has been transformed over the years.” Book early to save! 877-880-2453, escapadesbike “While there were a few instances of racism on both tours, they were minuscule in comparison to the tours.com/adventure. overwhelming expressions of hospitality from whole towns to individuals,” Kevin said. So what does the future hold? The group is already planning their 2013 tour which will use C H

K H ANEY UC Adventure Cycling’s Great Rivers South maps as they ride along the Mississippi River from New Orleans to St. Louis, in conjunction with the National Network to Freedom.

From Adventure Cycling’s National Bicycle Touring Portrait Collection. © 2013 Adventure Cycling Association.

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