CA MBRIDGE CO UNTY GEO GRAPH IES

S CO TLA ND

MU iU S N M A G : . O eneral Editor W , . .

D UMFRIE S S H IR E CAMB R I DGE U N IVE R S ITY P RE S S

flouhun F E E LAN E E . C . : TT R ,

F . LAY MAN AGE R C . C ,

Ioo PR IN CE S STR ET QEDinburgb: , E

B lin : . S H E R AN D CO er A A . F B R K H flz ipyig: . A . O C AU S P P T ’ 4mmEorh: G. . U N AM S S O N S

’ Irutta: M CMILL N AN D mant QLa CO . LTD 38 0m ); A A , .

reserv ed ’ ’ Camérzage County Geograph er

D U MF RIES S H IRE

A M KI . D . D . A E N G H EWIO N M . J S S , ,

Fellow ofthe Society ofAntiquari es ofS cotlan d

With M llustrations aps, D iagrams and I

Cambridge

at the U niv ersity Press

CO NTE NTS

an S r ofm County d hire . The O igin Du fries

G eneral Characteristics

S . S i z e . hape Boundaries

S urface and General Features

n Watershed. Rivers ad Lakes

G eology an d Soil Natural H istory Round the Coast

Coastal Gains and Losses

Climate an d Rainfall

P — L P eople Race , Type , anguage , opulation Agriculture

Industries and Manufactures

Mines and M inerals Fisheries

Shipping and Trade

History ofthe County fi CONTENTS

— P m - S o Antiquities rehistoric , Ro an , Celtic , Anglo ax n — Architecture (a) Ecclesiastical — Architecture (b) Castellated IIO — Architecture (c) M unicipal and Domestic — mm an and P d P . 2 2 . Co unications ast resent Roads Railways — Administration and Divisions Ancient and M odern

The Roll ofHonour

The ChiefTowns and Villages ofDumfriesshire ILLU STRATIO N S

Lo Loc m The Castle ch , h aben The Devil ’s BeefTub Dalveen Pass Mennock Pass Moffat : the Well Burn of and E sk L o m Meeting the Ewes , angh l Lo S ch kene A ’ off Grey Mare s Tail , M at Sanquhar Coalfield C richope Linn D rumlan rigCastle — Hoddom: The kind beech rows Lochwood O aks The Whiskered Tern Solway Viaduct Clochmaben stane

’ Craigenputtock : Carlyle s H ouse L ckerbie fr m ai n s Hill o o mMf Cattle Fair , Du ries S of f Birrens tatuette Brigantia , ound at Caerlav erock Castle

f Birr ns of e Altar Minerva , ound at ILLUSTRATIONS

Torque and Bowl found at Lochar Moss Ruthwell Cross Boatford Cross and Nith Bridge Thornhill Cross (meensberr m y Monu ent , Durisdeer Church c m mf Cri hton Me orial Church , Du ries Morton Castle Bonshaw Tower ’ — Johnie Armstrong s House H ollows Tower H oddomCastle Stapleton Towers

S and S mfe The M id teeple High treet , Du ri s Ar man Town Hall Castle Milk 1 2 2

Friars Carse , Dunscore and mf Old New Bridges , Du ries mm S Old Gra ar chool , Annan L k Town Hall , oc erbie

S ir . mG . C . B j ohn Malcol , Robert Flint Edward Irving Patrick M iller ’s Steamboat Joseph Thomson Thomas Carlyle ’ r mf Bu n s s m Monu ent , Du ries Jardine Hall Dunscore Church ’ f c c Carlyle s Birthplace , E cle e han Gretna Green H oddomChurch LangholmParish Church Mofiat

’ Renwick s Monument and Maxwelton Braes ILLUSTRATIONS ix

o S T wn Hall , anquhar S o and S o Morton ch ol choolhouse , Th rnhill Wanl ockhead Diagrams

MA PS

Orographical Map ofDumfriesshire Geological Map ofDumfriesshire Map ofthe Solway Rainfall map ofScotland

2 1 2 6 68 on . 1 1 2 2 The illustrations pp 5 , 9, 3 , 7 , , 5 , 5 , 5 , 4 , ,

1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 62 1 6 74 , 0 8 , 7 , 8 , , 3 , 7 , 3 , 34 , 5 , 5 4 , , 5 ,

1 1 an 1 1 fom o o . 68 0 d , 7 , 7 are r ph t graphs by Messrs J Valentine

S on 1 1 10 2 1 0 1 0 s ; th se pp . 5 , 7 , 4 0 , 4 , 94 , , 4 , 5 , on o 9, 3 3 fm 1 10 1 1 1 1 6 1 2 0 1 2 1 1 6 1 8 1 60 and 1 66 , 3 , , , , 5 , 5 , , are ro and on . 1 1 2 ph otographs by the auth r the p rtraits pp 3 7 , 4 , m o ; o 1 fo o o . 4 8 are r ph t graphs by Messrs T . R Annan ; the portrait

n 1 fman m ofSir o p . 3 9 is ro etching by kind per ission George

1 m the Reid ; that on p . 4 6 is fro a photograph by Mr John Fergus ;

1 m o Mont omé rie on . fo illustration p 5 9 is r a ph tograph by Miss g , m n and c Dal ore ; the illustrati ons o pp . 8 7 98 are reprodu ed by

of 1 courtesy the Society ofAntiquaries ofScotland ; that on p . 44 fom o k Son is r a bl ck indly lent by Messrs J . Maxwell ,

mf on 2 and m Du ries ; those pp . 3 4 5 are reproduced fro Mr Hugh ’ ' B r h S . Gladstone s i ds ofDumfriessbz re by kind permission oft e o th f e m fom L auth r , or er being r a photograph by Mr egard ;

’ n 1 d that o p . 3 is reproduced fromGeikie s S cenery ofScotlan by m of s m ofh S t e per i sion Messrs Mac illan Co. The Map olway

on . 8 p 4 is reproduced by courtesy ofDr George Neilson .

1 Th C S . of . ounty and h i re e O rigi n

Dumfries . The creation of a county and the establishment of a ' herifid m ffi s o in Dumfriessh ire were fraught with di culties . The ancient county of Dumfries included part of Gal lowa t y as far west as the river Cree , in affddition to he 1 present area wh ich was constituted a sheri dom in 748 . When in 1 10 7 Ki ng Edgar bequeathed to his youngest P brother , rince David , Scottish Cumbria , of which the present shire of Dumfries was then a part , he granted

- a very disputable possession . It was a little buffer state between two warring kingdoms . David , being both a

comes petty king and earl ( ), had the opportunity for imposing

- upon h is territory the feudal system , of the Anglo Norman h n To type, to whic he had been accustomed in E gland . his court he attracted Anglo - Norman and southern i chivalry to support h im in h s rule . His regal admin is tration was probably conducted by feudal dign itaries

C chancellor , constable , justiciar , hamberlain , steward , and ’ n marshal . O David s accession to the throne of Scotland 1 12 G m in 4, according to aelic custo and feudal law, h is personal property became an appanage of the crown .

H . D . 2 DUMFRIESSHIRE But at least one of the three great divisions of the border

m S trathn ith land , na ely , was still ruled by a Celtic

- D un e al l over lord g ; and , in ike manner , probably Annan

v dale and Eskdale were go erned by hereditary chiefs . David found it impolitic at once to discard the old code G of law and customs, which , as in the case of alloway , prevailed in some measure for centuries . The eastern boundary of Gaway or Galloway is not easily determined

- Strathnit now . Consequently th e Celtic over lord of h G (N ithsdale , and probably part of alloway) was left —a undisturbed . Annandale , however tract stretching to

Selkirkm — R the Forest of was granted to obert de B rus , M wh ile the constable , orville , got Cunningham , and the

itz Alan R F . steward , , got enfrew and part of Kyle To prevent jealousies among the local chiefs the Brus was

D un e al i not created an earl . If g held the offce of a Maar (who corresponded to the Gerefaor sheriffof the

v ice- cames Saxons) on h is own land , he might act as a .

The early kings themselves, in thei r progresses with their justiciars, presided over the courts of law . It is natural

- to expect , therefore , that the castle guard of the county

D une al was connected with the territory governed by g.

’ The county (camz tatus) for seven centuries has been associated with the to wn of Dumfries— aplace where D un egaland Radnulfhis son held and disponed heritage ’ Radnul about the middle of the twelfth century . fs “ ” fr D ron es G charter was given at , which in the ael ic tongue signifies “ the ridge of the bushes ” Th is corresponds with th e persistent local pronunciation “ ” h D un rcs D rumfrees . The next form of the word is f COUNTY AND SHIRE 3

fi dun D un rez 1 18 and f( 3 a signi cant change after the , D une al m or fort of g, on the bushy ridge , beca e of para “ f” m D un r s mount i portance . This form of the word , y , “ ” r mf 12 6 D u res appears in 9 , and holds on in charters

1 after 32 9. What i n the way of establish ing feudalism David and Malcolm left undone William the Lyon com

leted 1 18 6 be p . About the year erected a strong castle

r un fr (cast um) at D es to overawe the rebell ious Galwegians . In that military centre the officers of the king h eld their

courts , and received the service and fees of the knights and barons of the district as well as customs due to the

- Crown . Annandale was exempted from castle ward . G t e r D r uarded by the cas l , the new oyal fbfurgh of umf ies thus early rose , and from it the sheri made the lieges ’ keep the king s peace . The boundaries of this sheriffdom

‘ wice- comitazus ( ) in course of time were curtailed . The ff’ n ot sheri s jurisdiction , however , was , in all matters, commensurate with the boundaries of the county . Annan dale had the separate j urisdiction of a stewartry , Eskdale

that of a regality . Till the middle of the eighteenth r r ff e r t er h centuffy, she i dom , st wa try, and regali y w e ereditary in di erent noble families in succession . When the S cotts of Buccleuch held the regality , they got their ff R Eskdale lands transferred to the sheri dom of oxburgh , 1 8 e from whmich they were separated in 74 and j oin d again to Du fries . The burgh of Dumfries was in the ’ fifteenth century excluded from the sheriffs jurisdiction in respect of “ actions of blood ” — apri vilege con firmed 1 to the town by James IV i n 50 9. The county became adjusted to its modern conditions

I—2 4 DUMFRIESSHIRE

“ H eretable when parliament , by the Jurisdictions Act ,

1 r . 747, abolished he itable jurfifsdictions The Duke of Queensberry , hereditary sheri of Dumfries and coroner d m r 6 1 8 s. . fo 62 . of Nithsdale , received £ 5 in co pensation ffi M 0 0 0 h is loss of o ces ; the arquis of Annandale , J£3 for the loss of the stewardship of Annandale , and the regality

fr ff 1 0 0 of Mo at ; and the Duke of Buccleuch £ 4 o the regal ity of Eskdale .

C 2 . General haracteristics .

In the southern uplands of Scotland , stretching between sea and sea , where the two kingdoms meet in the Solway h Strat , and almost encompassed with an oval girdle of green h ills, lies the pastoral territory of Dumfries . The

' t pic uresque aspect of the country made Fergusson , the “ ’ poet , declare that the gods there ha e shown their power

’ '

f . in airy dream Its characteristics are varied , no one having a striking predominance , since the verdant land S scape , from its maritime margin on the olway Firth , stretches evenly over holm and undulating ground , ridges and little h ills, up to a high transverse watershed , ranging in height from Corsin cone H ill (1547 feet) to Wh ite Coomb

- 2 6 . ( 95 feet) above sea level Nothing appears exaggerated , and a fascinating harmony everywhere prevails, partly created by landscape artists who hav e blended woodland and tilled field to add beauty to h ill , dal e , and river .

Three great vales, parallel to each other , and having a — — southerly trend Nithsdale , Annandale and Eskdale each GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS 5

drained by a river from wh ich it is named , give the shire

In its ch ief natural distinction . combination with these — are lesser dales the greatest being the Vale of Cairn . These again slope down on either side of the three great

- — water arteries, in two directions, south west and south east respectively ; and thus nature provides for moderating the fo wind , rain , and g, and for obtaining an even distribution

The st e L o h L o hm e C a l c , c ab n

u . of s nsh ine , heat , and moisture The valleys , watered by

- a hundred trouting streams, wh ich drain much arable and pastoral land , form suitable tracts for the agriculturist

- and sheep farmer . I n early autumn , when the harvest crowns the year, the prospect from one of the great hills is a vast pano rama of green and gold cut with a streak of w silver river in each of the valleys belo . 6 DUMFRIESSHIRE

O n the uplands there are w ide tracts of moorland and bill pasture , lone , yet vocal with the bleat of sheep and cry of wild birds . Lakes are l ittle in evidence except — “ M ’ around Lochmaben arjory o the mony lochs, A carlin auld and teuch , where formerly seven sheets of water were clustered together . Worthy of note is an extensi ve tract of peat moss and moor lying east of and parallel to the ri ver Nith , below the town of Dumfries .

R . Along its eastern margin the G . S . W . ailway is built M Known as Lochar oss, it has the divisional names of ’ M R M M Ironhirst M Craig s oss, acks oss, Lochar oss, oss , M M Holmhead oss, and Longbridge oor . In extent it is six miles long and above two miles broad at the Wath R Burn . ecently extensive plant has been built on the moss for the utilisation of the peat . The maritime position of the sh ire is also of con siderable m i portance still , notwithstanding the greater convenience of the railways for the carriage of imports and exports . Nith and Annan are deep tidal rivers with water to bring vessels of considerable tonnage to near m Du fries and to Annan . Nature has provided an easy u S o tlet , by the rivers Nith and Annan and by the olway

the Firth , for exportation of the local minerals, products, manufactures, and netted fish . Unfortunately it is still the upper surface of the land wh ich is the source of wealth and power . The soil being utilised to the fullest extent affords work and homes for a busy population which now has little chance to increase much in country areas . O n e noticeable feature of the landscape for which man is wholly responsible is the regular d ivision of arable

8 DUMFRIESSHIRE

Lanarkshire removed . Six lowland Scottish Shires

P Rox Ki rkcudbright, Ayr, Lanark , eebles , Selkirk and — — burgh , and one English county Cumberland gird th e sh ire . Queensberry Hill (2 2 8 5) stands near the centre of the northern boundary . From it to either side springs a great arc of h igh h ills, thereby forming two almost semicircular o r e e . bounda i s al ng thmnorthern frontier Beginning the circuit on the extre e west side , where Dumfries touches

fi Lor Kirkcudbright and Ayr , one nds the grange , with

Blacklor 2 2 1 three summits, rising i n gto 3 feet , and form ing a watershed for Afton on the north and the many feeders of the N ith i n the west . A lofty ridge curves ’ around Kirkconnel by Mc C ririck s Cairn (18 2 4) beneath Corsin con e on to the limits of Ayr and Lanark at Threeshire Stone near Mount Stuart H ill. then eastward by Spango (1391) to Wanlock Dod

between Wanlockhead and Leadhills . Thence — the watershed sweeps south to Lowther H ill (2 377) the highest altitude there . The range still keeps h igh wh ile 1 8 bound ing Durisdeer , in the Waal Hill reaching 9 7 feet ,

Wedd r and in e law 2 18 5 feet .

B eginningagain slightly north of Queensberry , the course of the second arc tends northward with a decl ivity of a few hundred feet till it touches Peeblesshire and

r V Lanarkshi re , beneath Flecke H ill in the icinity ’ of A nnanhead H ill and the Devil s Beef Tub .

Agai n ascending to the north - west with increasing altitude — — at Hartfell(2 65 1) it comes to the boundary of Selkirk sh ire at Loch Craig Head 70 feet lower than

10 DUMFRIESSHIRE Wh ite Coomb The boundary curves round Loch Skene ; and taking a southerly course at a height of over 2 0 0 0 M ff feet , it reaches Capel Fell east of o at

Water . A northern sweep by Ettrick Pen (2 2 70 ) - the — h ighest hill in that quarter brings it with varying decl ivity round Eskdalemuir, south of Ettrick , past the boundary R fi Moodlaw of oxburghshire , xed above Loch , to Cause way Grain Head It then descends southward by

Hart arth Liddel g Fell east of Ewes, till it meets

Water , the boundary with England .

Liddel Water , till it j oins the Esk near The Scots

Dyke , for five miles in straight li ne from point to point , forms the boundary between Canonbie and Cumberland .

The Scots Dyke runs till it almost touches the river Sark , wh ichfnow becomes the boundary between the countries as it lows south to join the Esk . In the channel of the

Esk , as it flows west , the boundary is fixed for a few miles , till Esk reaches the Eden opposite TorduffPoint . Eden falls into Solway ; and Solway Firth , below N ewbie , becomes the extreme boundary on the south . — To complete the environment going north from this point the boundary l ies between Dumfries and Kirkcud bright till Ayrshi re is reached at Meikledodd Hill At first it divides Blackshaw Bank and does not touch the

Nith till well up its channel , which it crosses and rejoins beneath Kelton Bank . In the Nith , flowing between M fi Dumfries and axwelltown , the boundary is xed till it

Lincluden reaches the Water of Cluden at , whence it goes

- te fo d i n a north westerly direction till Lower S p r is reached .

Barbuie Here the Burn separates the sh ires, and the SIZE SHAP E BOUNDARIES II boundary runs south of D unscore parish between h ills

10 0 0 C rai en uttock 0 0 rising over feet , on past g p (7 ) and

G Benbrack 1 0 0 Loch Urr, round lencairn , across ( 9 ) and — Black Hill (18 0 8) the western limit of T ynron parish . P T ouching enpont , the boundary next reaches to Sanqu har — at Blacklorg(2 2 3 1) the western l imit as stated at the outset . In the thirteenth century and onwards the boundary

nd between England a Scotland was the river Esk . In

1552 the frontier was shifted to the Sark . T he district between the old and new limits was debateable . T h is “ h Debateable Land , known as the lands Batable or T repe ” Lands, lay partly in England and partly in Scotland . Its south boundary was the Esk from its j unction with the idd l th L e to the spot where the Esk and e Sark met . I t comprehended the baronies of Kirkandrews and Morton

Brettalac h Br ntalone in Cumberland , and or y , now

Canonbie , in Dumfriesshire .

. S f 4 ur ace and General F eatu res .

- The surface of the county , risi ng from sea level to an 2 0 0 altitude of nearly 7 feet , is varied with holm and ridge , dell and h ill , with here and there a sheet of water breaking the monotony of a green landscape . Its pastoral aspect is

O ne- noteworthy . half of the whole area is covered with

— - fif th h hill grass and heath , more than one wit permanent —fif th pasture, and more than one is arable land . Thus there is little left for woodland , water, and waste in a DUMFRIESSHIRE te rritory agreeably parcelled Out into 2 70 0 agricultural holdings .“ s n o The urface , generally Speaking, presents abrupt but features , meadow land slopes up to ridge, ridges reach to uplands , and these rise to the h igh Spurs which emerge from the barriers on the northern limits . The systematic disposition of the great valleys and minor dales, al ready e r ref rred to , with their elative streams, forms a certain regularity of surface in every district . This lie of the land permits nature to display every charm from the beauty and riches of lo n g and well - tilled alluvial fields of ‘ u e a red hue , the p ict resque aspect of cops and wood , self

' sown or planted by river and bank up to the hills clad

e a w . ith h ath or mount in grass The upper valley of N ith ,

basin 'round e e the middle Thornhill , and the ev r wid ning Strath extending from Dumfries to Solway Firth are in t turn scenes of pastoral and sylvan beauty . Similarly he w M ff triple vales of Annan , narro at o at , widening in to “ ” The Howe of Annandale, and debouching into the

Solway Strath , have characteristics almost i dentical with those of Nithsdale . Eskdale , with its three vales of Ewmes, Esk , and Wauchope , united at the town of Langhol , 'o less extensive and more rural , still beautiful , so ner descends into the Lowlands . O fthe lofty h ills piled in concentric circles along the northern frontiers enough has been written to suggest the

v - grandeur of many serene ales at thei r base , and many

C ric ho e noisy torrents in rocky beds, such as p Linn , and

Wamhra the Cauldron at p y in the hills . Travel lers have P M felt the charm of the pensive asses of ennock , Dalveen , SURFACE AN D GENERAL FEATURES 13

Waalath and p , and the glamour of Scaur Water and Shin n el in N ithsdale : have realised the grandeur invest ’ n ef L i Be Tub gThe Dev il s in Annandale , and lonely och Skene i n the wilds of Moffatdale : and have lingered on Whita Langholm Bridge , Hill , Hollows Tower, and other fascinating spots in Eskdale . O fprominent h ills in the west is Cairnkin na(18 19)

D alv een P as s

P G n in enpont pariash , overlooking Nithsdale , lencair , and the Solway Str th as far as Cumberland . Queensberry

in the very centre , commands N ithsdale , Annan

d Be dale , the seaboard and the silvery Firth beyon . w D rumlanri t een these points, eminent stands gCastle (30 0 ) surmounti n g the landscape garden of Middle Nithsdale made by D ouglases and Scotts

H rtfll a e 2 6 1 M ff 66 From ( 5 ) in o at parish , nearly 3 14 DUMFRIESSHIRE

G m feet higher than Queensberry , the Firth and the er an

O cean can be seen . Eskdale and the Border land for many miles is domi mated by WhitaH ill on which is erected an M R obelisk in memory of Sir John alcolm . T he oman strategists proved thei r knowledge of surveying when they

Birrenswark Hoddom established Camp in parish , as a frontier post from which beacon signals could be communicated far on every side . P erhaps the beautiful holm landsmin all the vales, when i n pasture or crop , impress a visitor ost ; but the happy distribution of waters runfning in romantic courses shaded with luxuriant trees is a eature of the sh i re oft recalled .

T he rounded bosses of the hills too are impressive features . Extensive mosses also suggest the age when the primal forests stood in maj esty, as now the last of the ancient oak woods stands i n decadence, great but dying, round

Lochwood ruined T ower, beside a vast peat moss .

W . v L k . 5 . atershed Ri ers and a es

T he lakes are mere fountain - heads of inconsiderable streams . The true watershed is the chain of lofty h ills running from west to east on the northern frontier . From th is elevated plateau t he water is shed into three out of the four cardinal directions of the compass . At

1 1 , two poi nts , only miles apart , rise the important rivers T weed and Clyde ; the former emerging west of Annan head Hill (1566) from Flecket H ill from wh ich

I6 DUMFRIESSHIRE M of Eliock , on the left swollen by the ennock Nith finds restraint within a grey picturesque defile th rough

which it winds past th e hamlet below historic E nterkin .

n D rumlanri It ext plunges into the red ravi nes above g,

th rough its woods , passing half a mile east of the Castle ,

M . beneath wh ich it is j oined by arr Burn A l ittle lower ,

near Carronbridge , the Carron draining th e dale of

Durisdeer , broadens the river speeding on in serpentine M track th rough a vast garden . iddle Nithsdale , or The

Thornhill Basin , as geologists term it , is an emerald oval ,

n eleven miles lo g and seven miles broad , bisected by the

river Nith .

- of At a d istance of one mile and a half south west m Thornh ill , the Cample increased by streamlets fro ’

the heathery h ills on the east , falls into Nith . A mile 2 0 farther south , the brown waters of the Scaur ( ) increased near Penpont by its tributary the Shimmel (12 ) P having drained enpont , Tynron , and part of Keir, roll

- over the bluish grey gravel at Keir into Nith . Flowing

on down the valley, straitened at Blackwood , through the

red bridge of Auldgirth , i nto the Dumfries basin circled

Terre les M by the hills of Kirkmahoe , Dunscore, g , abie and Tinwald , N ith , deeper and broader, continues its h obl ique course th rough t is arable tract . It obtains

Lin cluden additional volume at Abbey, where the waters of Cluden gathered by many streamlets in Dunscore

G — O ld Glenesslin and lencairn parishes namely Cluden , ,

tlfrn l h t Cas e e Daw a Cairn , , C raigdarroch , and , all from — the west fall into N ith . Flowing through Dumfries and Maxwelltown in a stream 94 yards broad it meets

18 DUMFRIESSHIRE

the tide and with it rushes to the Solway Fi rth , passing G n on the Dumfries side Kingholm , Kelton , and le caple , the local ports . Running nearly parallel with the Nith from a source

m P 16 i n Ki rk ahoe , east of H igh Auldgirth , ark Burn ( ) then Lochar Water—flows south through the parishes of K irkmahoe , Tinwald , and Torthorwald into Lochar M M oss, touching D umfries and ouswald , where it is

Caerlaveroc k joined by the Wath Burn , then on through R into uthwell , where its sluggish stream falls into the

Solway . Two miles below Moffat three mountain streams unite in the holms and form the river Annan North

An n an head 1 66 of that point at Hill ( 5 ) the middle stream , least of the th ree , the Annan is supposed to rise ; but a — — longer feeder the Lochan (7) descends from Barry Ri Grain g.

- The second head stream , Evan , on the west descends m fro the highlands of Lanarkshi re th rough romantic , wooded defiles traversed from B eattock by the h ighway R f to Edinburgh and by the Caledonian ailway . O its m Gar ol any tributaries p Water is the greatest . The M ff third and longest branch , o at Water supposed to rise at Birkhill really rises at the extreme boundary at Loch Craig Head (2 62 5) whose southern slopes drain into Loch Skene . Its sustaining rivulets descend through “ ” “ ” “ ” 1 u 9 cleuchs, grains or gills , stretching p to the ’ boundaries on both sides . The coach road to St Mary s

Loch is parallel to the stream .

South of the meeting of these three streams , where fft the W e B n Mo a : ll ur 20 DUMFRIESSHIRE

the vale is three miles and a half broad , the river flows sout h between Wamphray and Johnstone into the w iden Mid ing valley of Annandale , wah ich surrounds Lochmaben and Lockerbie . Here th e ov l basin contains a smaller — cup seven miles across from Q uhy tewoollen Hass (733) — to Hightown H ill (8 18) in wh ich lie the Lochs of

Lochmaben . Before reach ing this depression the river

Wamhra 8 has been j oined , first by the p y ( ) from Croft Head and below Applegarth by the united streams 1 of Kinnel an d AZ. Kinnel ( 7) takes its rise in the uplands of Ki rkpatrick Juxta beyond Queensberry , and , of having passed through the woods Johnstone, it descends E to meet the , rising on the other side of Queensberry and draini ng Kirkmichael parish . South of a line drawn

r f D e between Lockerbie and Lochmaben , the y from 2 2 6 the east , running from Loch Fell ( 5 ) and draining the

r f D e narrow dale of y , falls into Annan . Now bending

- M 1 south west Annan , j oined by the ilk ( 7) from the M east , in its un ited stream of ilk and Corrie , reaches H oddom the lovely woods of . Another tributary from

M T un der arth the east is the ein from g , wh ich mingles with Afnnan at a point one mile and a hal f south - south o . west Ecclefechan In an expansive Strath , Annan passes B rydekirk village, at Annan meets the tidal waters,

the and two miles lower down reaches Waterfoot .

v With de ious , almost semicircular course, the K irtle rising from the hills between Middlebie and Lang M holm , after draining iddlebie and Kirkpatrick Fleming, S O ld G an d falls into the ark south of retna , near the con fluence of th e river Esk . K WATERS HED . RIVERS AND LA ES 2 1 T he thi rd great valley in the county is watered by the Esk Th e Wh ite Esk (6) rises to the north of Th Ettrick Pen (2 2 70 ) i n Eskdalemuir . e Garvald (5) from the western Fells j oins the White Esk at th e 70 0 feet level ; and th e united streams swelled by the Mood

Rae m fl law , , and other streamlets fro the east , ow

W esterkirk southward beyond till , on th e west , they are

1 joi ned by the B lack Esk . The Black Esk ( 2 ) takes its ’ rise at Jock s Shoulder Now styled the Esk , the ri ver takes several abrupt turns in a northerly direction and is joi ned by Meggat Water with Sten nies Water

from the north of Westerkirk. Shut within a n arrow fl vale , less than two miles broad , Esk ows ci rcuitously and

n rapidly to Langholm tow , where it is j oined on the east

by Ewes Water, and on the west by the Wauchope

The Ewes (10 ) fromthe north - east boundary flows through lovely defiles side by side with the highway from

. - Carl isle to Edinburgh Tending to the south west , Esk

descends through Canonbie, being swelled on the left bank

Harts arth by the impetuous Tarras which rises at g . After passing through the wooded glen south of Lang

holm , past Canonbie v illage , Esk enters England , being

Liddel joined below Nether Woodhouselee by the Water , and turns away westward to join the Eden and fall into

Liddel the Solway . Water , after a long course through

R Liddelban k oxburghshire, touches Dumfriesshire beneath and becomes the boundary between Canonbie and

Cumberland for over five miles . 1 fl T he historic Sark ( 3) rises i n the Collin Hags, ows

M M k- by iddlebie , between Half orton , Ki rkpatric Fleming,

2 4 DUMFRIESSHIRE m Around Loch aben several lochs remain , namely the

2 0 0 M 0 Castle Loch , acres, ill Loch , 7 acres , Kirk Loch , 60 M 2 acres , High tae Loch and arr Loch , 5 acres, and “ ” : G rummell two blind lochs Loch and B rummel , or

H lleah a t s . , Loch are now drained

62 - Loch U rr , 3 feet above sea level , lies in Dunscore

G . and lencai rn parishes , and partly in Balmaclellan It r re e measu es ac s , of which 33 acr fs are in Bal m G . O ut aclellan , and 33 i n lencairn of it lows the U rr ut Town foot A . O Water . few smaller lochs exist of e r fw t e Loch , Clos bu n , lo s a s reaml t which desmcends th rough the wild ravin e of C ric hope into the Ca ple .

6 . Geology and S oil . The earth itself partly tells the story of its origin and

growth below the surface and upon it , and of various forms of vegetabl e and animal l ife wh ich have in succession

existed in ages long gone by . In the crust of the earth — — our only accessible book we can read this ancient

record from the minerals and rocks composing it . The term“ rock denotes either a material mass formed of

n m onse one mi eral or co posed of more than one . C quently it has been found necessary to classify the various d ff r t e r t t e . ocks according o th i mcharac eris ics and i rences These fall into t hree ain d ivisions, with many sub

in m 1 un stratified divisions each , na ely ( ) , massive , igneous, 2 fi m or eruptive ; ( ) strati ed , sedi entary , or aqueous ; (3) metamorphic or al tered rocks . For convenience the GEOLOGY AND SOIL 2 5

terms igneous , aqueous, and metamorph ic are generally used .

’ ffat re Mae s Mo G y r T ail ,

The igneous rocks are the earliest variety , l ie at the very base of the crust , and have been pushed among and

fl . through t he other rocks, somewhat l ike lava in its ow 2 6 DUMFRIESSHIRE

There they cooled slowly, solidified under pressure , and settled . Their composi tion and texture are very varied . Active volcanoes indicate what place and function this unseen basal foundation of the whole earth has . The aqueous , or sedimentary rocks , are found in layers stratified; and because of this feature they are of the greatest importance to the inqui rer , since they have been deposited at different times and withi n thei r composition preserve memorials of the various epochs they have ffpassed through . Within thei r substance fragments of di erent minerals and rocks , of chemical precipitates, such as salts , and , still more instructive , of fossils of plants , fishes and

- fi de n ed . animals, are found in well groups For example , an d i n l imestone caverns stalactites falling from the roof,

n m f m stalagmites risi g fro the loor , are for ed by the de position ofcarbonate of lime in solution ; and the masses formed often have encrusted i n themmany foreign m materials . S imilarly crustacea , ollusca , zoophytes, and foraminifera ever eliminate carbonate of lime from water , and this on deposition makes solid rock . Th e ooze of the ocean bed filled with the skeletons of foraminifera

n becomes a kind of chalk . Coral , resembling limesto e , is built up in similar manner . Nearly all the land surface

- and much of the sea bed are of the sedimentary class . The winds too have been important factors i n gathering sand and loose material together into situations favourable to stratification .

The third class of rocks is the metamorphic , consisting of the above two classes after they have undergone altera tion . The action of i rresistible subterranean forces, wh ich , GEOLOGY AND SOIL 2 7

re interacting with heat and water , pressed , crushed , and arranged the composition ofthe mineral elements giving

them crystalline structure and properties, is seen in the

resultant products . These are called schists and range

- from silky slates, or phyllites, up to coarse granite like

gneisses .

Thus the earth , upon examination , tells how it has

fire been acted upon by , water , air, and life under law .

Taking all these facts into consideration , geologists have laid down the order of succession of the stratified formation ’ of the earth s crust as follows :

Sy stems General C/zaracteristics R O c o der a an ds stoc n B u rae s. Pl ei e e l Cl y , G v l , Y S R Z an ds d P li ocen e helly an Grav el s. A O S S I N as ar s an ds ms M e ones. ‘ O ocen e I I li Cl y , l , i t g , ' S L R A as E ocen e ands oam. E C S , Cl y , L

a s n ds on s as h k a e . C l , S t , Cl y

haes an ds on es mes on es. S l , S t , Li t

an dston es mes on es G sum at. S , Li t , yp , S l

P erman Red an ds on es Man es an mes ones. i S t , g i Li t a ferous an ds on es haes meston es o . arbon i C S t , S l , Li , C l

O ld Red an ds on e an d D e on an Red an dston es aes meston es. S t v i S , Sl t , Li L udl ow Beds mes on es ur an Wen ock Beds ands on es haes . Sil i l S t , S l , Li t Llandovery Beds Caradoc Beds ad d ds ones meston es n e o Be s haes ates an . Ll il S l , Sl , S t , Li A ren igBeds a es on es an dston es es m . S , Sl t , Li t Dumfriesshi re forms a part of a h igh S ilurian table land which stretches fromPort Patrick across country to ’ St Abb s head . This extensive bel t consists almost wholly 28 DUMFRIES S HIRE f of massive grits , greywackes (wh instone) , lags and shales , except in certain ci rcumscri bed areas where the carboni

- ferous system is in evidence . T his table land is hilly, con formable to the system . The Silurian strata, however, having been subj ected to great lateral pressure , bent , squeezed , inverted , and often times cleft, are found

an v somewhat complicated , without remarkable meta morph ism . The h ills, i rregularly set , have taken shape h and position , th rough no upheaval , but throug the erosion of the valleys . They resisted the scooping forces which bared the hollows and scul ptured the romantic P craigs and dales . T h is Silurian area was i n alaeozoic

l O ld Red times over aid by a thick bed of Sandstone ,

denudation althou h which has totally disappeared through , g it appears over the county boundary i n Ayrshi re and stretches away in a nort h -e asterly direction to the Braid h . w H ills, near Edinburgh In the ollo s worn out of th is

- O ldRedS h igh table land , first andstone , followed in order by the strata of the Carboniferous system , then rocks of the Permian and Triassic period were deposited to be in turn borne away except from some depressions in the

an o . S vales of Nith , Annan and Esk In p g basin , on the O ld northern boundary , granite , older than the Upper

Red Sandstone, invades the Silurian system ; and dykes

the of felsite , diorite and other igneous rocks appear in

Silurian area of the same age . Before the O ld Red Sandstone period passed away an d as a result of volcanic action , igneous rocks appeared and in the form of slaggy, amygdaloidal andesites inter d vene between the sandstone and carboniferous strata . GEOLOGY AND SOIL 29

The lava flow is traceable between Tarras and Birrens wark , and sites of volcanic orifices are seen i n Tarras ,

Birren wark m Liddel . s , and Ewes dales H ill is si ply a mass of lava standing up through a bed of Upper O ld

Red Sandstone . There is a visible outcrop of lavas and agglomerates (with dolerite and gabbro) on the northern Bailhill boundary near Wanlockhead , , Sanquhar, and

an P Euch Water ; and volcanic vents of the ermiaffn age can be traced in that district . O nly volcanic tu s are M ff found in the o at area .

- The Lower Silurian system , i n its two fold d ivision of Llandeilo and Caradoc beds , is represented in seven groups of varying character and thickness . Examples

Raehills of Llandeilo formation are seen near , of Caradoc ’ Har fl t el at Spa , and of Llandovery at D obb s Linn , all M ff M ff near o at . Around o at there is a large zone of

- black shale accompanied with true deep sea deposits, with grey shales and yellow shattery clayey bands . Between M ff o at and Sanquhar lies the Dal veen group of hills , where a series of fine blue and grey greywackes and shales similar to those of the Llandeilo bed is found . The Hartfellblack shales disappear to the west of San uhar q , their place being taken by grey sandy shales with dark seams through them ; and in the district south of

Eskdalemuir they pass into Wenlock beds . A l ine drawn from Ewes Water Head by Langholm to Mouswald forms

An the boundary between Llandovery and Wenlock . other line drawn from Langholm to Ruthwell ind icates where the U pper Silurian is covered by the Upper O ld

RedS andstone and by Carboni ferous rock . An interesting 30 DUMFRIES S HIRE portion of the Caradoc area—greywackes and grits with coarse conglomerates exposed - is found in the upper part P of enpont and T ynron , extending westward from Scaur,

C hanlock hinn e and S lWaters . These conglomerates

- contain pebbles of quartz , quartz rock , lydian stone , blue w h and grey grey ackes , grey s ales and pieces of black shale . Graptolites were found among the fragments of black shale . The Queensberry Group is a great series of massive

Tarannon Barlae grits of Age , systematically jointed , with h s ales on top , and grey and blue shales at base resting on e the low r black shale bed , and spreading over the south western quarter of the shire into Ki rkcudbright . In the Cluden Valley the black shale is thickly covered with

lenesslin 0 G . drift , and j ust cr ps out nort h of In the “ ” Scaur Valley there is a considerable area of the Grieston

the series, and in blue shales of the vicinity the trilobite ha s been unearthed . O fmetamorphism in the Lower Silurian area there fin is a e example at Bail H ill , Kirkconnel , where the transition from ordinary greywacke and shale into crys tallin e amorphous rocks is seen . The resultant mass is fi a curious, varied , unde nable blend . In the area around Wanlockh ead the Lower Silurian rocks are traversed by

- - two veins, one running north west and south east , the other

- - - - west north west and east south east . These contain lead ,

- e . i ron , barytes, sul phuret of zinc, copper pyrites, and silv r

Gold is found i n the alluvia of the streams . Both lead fi and sil ver are worked to pro t . The lie of the strata in the lead - producing region is as follows : greywacke ; Black

3 2 DUMFRIES S HIRE

The Kirkconnel and Sanquhar coal - beds l ie in an area measuring nine miles longwith a breadth averaging from of coalfield two to four miles , and is an extension the Ayr . 12 0 0 The strata descend feet , and the coal measures l ie above the depressed surface of that paffrt of the Silurian area wh ich a fault has lowered . In di erent seams , with “ n c interve ingstrata , are found creepie coals , almstone ,

- dau h - twenty inch , g, spl int and swallow craig coals . In

- - one half of the field , lying to the south west , th ree doleritic dykes, th rowing out intrusive sheets, disturb the measures and render the working of coal unprofitable

the there . In Upper Nithsdale Silurian barrier did not sink beneath the sea- level till the latter part of the Car

oniferous b . period At Sanquhar red marls and clays , lying in the upper part of the coal measure , are avail

- able for the manufacturing of bricks, terra cotta, pottery , tiles, etc . Canonbie coalfield is said to represent the true coal measures of the central valley of Scotland . In the valleys of the Liddeland the Esk the nine following zones are represented in their ascend ing order : the Whita sandstone ; the cement - stone group ; Fell sandstones Glencartholmvolcanic group ; marine l imestone group with coal seams ; millstone grit ; Rowanburn coal group ;

B reburn y coal group ; red sandstones of Canonbie . I n

Glen cartholm the volcanic zone , a number of new fishes,

, decapod crustaceans , phyllopods and scorpions have been found i n the calcareous shale associated with th e tuffs . As Nith courses south to D rumlan rigthe Carboniferous system , through wh ich it has cut its channel , appears lying GEOLOGY AND S OIL 33

P on the Lower Silurian rocks . ermian rocks appear above them both . The Carron Valley presents both Carboni f P erous and ermian rocks in varying positions , the latter

sometimes overlapping the former . In the Thornh ill

Basin , that is from Blackwood north to the Lowther

- foot h ills , Carboniferous rocks of the earl iest type appear , having fossiliferous red l imestone bands lying above or

below older and later sandstone , coloured red and reddish

grey . The limestone is confined to the lower part of the

basin , and is worked at Closeburn and across the N ith at

Bar ar j gin Keir , where the Carboniferous rocks are best

displayed . At Closeburn the strata are thus disposed red shaly sandstone and purple and red mottled shales ;

red M 1 agnesian l imestone , 4 feet ; red sandstones and 18 18 clays , feet ; t hick red almost pure limestone , feet .

Fossils common to the formation are found here . The P other series of marine l imestone found in Esk, enton ,

Kelhead Ecclefechan , and have been wrought to commer

ial elh ad v K e . c advantage . is still an extensi e work From Cumberland to Ayrshi re the Permian rocks lie

on the top of the Carboniferous system . They exist in two series—rocks of a lower volcanic character and a

- brick red sandstone of considerable thickness . In the Permian age lava streams flowed over some parts of this a area , then cooled into band upon the Silurian or Car bon iferous surface ; and upon th is porphyritic bed the P stratified rocks of the ermian order rest . In places the porphyritic bed is in terstratified with tuffand red sand — stone : in others the brick red sandstones are full of volcanic '’ ' dczzrzs C richo e and bands of red volcanic tuff. Above p

H D . . 3 C richope L inn GEOLOGY AND S OIL 3 5

Linn , Thornhill , the Carboni ferous rocks d isappear , and porphyritic rock and sandstone ofthe Permian series take

Locherben thei r place . At , between the systems, lies a

bed of breccia made up of Silurian fragments , and blocks

- of porphyrite imbedded in a brick red ashy paste . In the

Dumfries Basin , where the Carboniferous rocks and vol

can ic P - series of ermian rocks are absent , the brick red sandstones rest on a coarse breccia above the Silurian rock .

This breccia is composed of pink felstone with hornblende, grey and purplish greywacke , grey shale , quartz rock and grey schist . There is a great demand for building pur poses for the easily hewn Permian sandstones got in the

Gatelawbrid e quarries at g, Closeburn , Locharbriggs, Corse

An nanlea . h ill , , Cove , and Corncockle In Corncockle D r Duncan of Ruthwell d iscovered the footprints of ’ extinct reptilia . The grey calcareous sandstone of King s h n n i ff Auc e a ht Quarry and g , Nithsdale , a ords massive material for edifices such as Morton and D rumlan rig

Castles . The Triassic rocks rest unconformably on all w the older formations ithin Dumfriessh i re .

- The great ice sea , in moving from th e west in an

- easterly and south easterly direction over this area , rounded offthe hills and left their rock - faces in many parts scarred with the striae wh ich tell of this passage . The ultimate result was the deposition of the boulder clays, beds and

vallevs banks of gravels and sand in the , the dropping of such a grand landmark as the historic “ trysting ” stone

Clochmaben G of in retna, and other transported boulders G ff taken from ri el across country over the Borders, the laying down of the fine glacial clay at Ry edale and — 3 2 3 6 DUMFRIES S HIRE

Han nahfield , Dumfries, and the formation of the vast moraines which are a striking feature at Loch Skene , and of the raised beach es seen near Queensberry . fThe richest soils are to be found on the higher alluvial lats by the banks of t he rivers and streams ; but by Nith ,

Cluden , and Cairn , where there is a wide distri bution of gravelly d rift , the soils are generally light . As a general rule , the arable soil rests upon a subsoil of clay , especially in the more level tracts of country , in the valleys, or in the uplands . Nearly all broken land is tinged with a ruddy hue arising from the presence of oxide of iron .

The Corncockle sandstone exhi bits a light terra - cotta red colour and this hue is very prevalent in the sandstone belts upon the ploughed fields . The analysis of th e stone shows

— ° silica alumina oxide of iron 8 5 ; lime

' “ ° 3 1 ; potash magnesia 10 ; soda 2 0 ; titanic oxide

‘ ' 13 ; combined water 90 . The weight of the stone is

12 6 lbs . for every cubic foot .

H N . 7 . atu ral istory m— — In recent ti es recent , that is , geologically no sea separated B ritain from the Continent . The present bed of the German O cean was a low plain intersected by the R waters of the present hine, wh ich had among its tribu

- taries the various eastward flowingstreams of Britain . At that period , th en , the plants and the animals of our country were identical with those of Western Europe . But the

ic ae . e gcame and crushed out life in this region In time , NATURAL HIS TORY 37 f as the ice melted , the lora and fauna gradually returned ,

- d . for the land bri ge still existed Had it continued to exist , our plants and animals would have been the same as i n

N orthern France and the N etherlands . But the sea drowned the land and cut offBritain fromthe Continent

D rumlan rigCa stl e

before all the species found a home here . Consequently ,

m an d on the east of the North Sea all our ma mals reptiles , for example , are found alongwith many which are not indigenous to Britain . In Scotland , however, we are proud to possess in the red grouse a bird not belonging to the fauna of the Continent . 38 DUMFRIES S HIRE

D umfriesshire is a profitable resort for naturalists .

N early all the trees and shrubs indigenous to B ritain , 6 f 0 . in number , are found lourishing within this area

There is no trace of the ancient Caledonian Forest , save — what is preserved in the name of part of it Holywood ;

- but in remote glens there are patches of old self sown , h free growing copses of hazel and birc , with willow and alder in moist situations . Th e mosses sometimes give up bulky trunks of oak and Scots fir indicating how widespread

1 6 rumlanri the natural forest was . In 75 the woods of D g were felled by a storm and converted into rudimentary fi peat , a kind of transformation within historic times testi ed to by many peat hags . Some grand trees have survived storm and axe for centuries , and remain models for those landholders who have enriched the landscape with orna mental and commercial plantations , which have ripened and given place to oth er profitable woods . Nevertheless

- only one twenty third part of the soil is thus occupied . There yet survives round D rumlan rigCastle a small remnant of that

noble horde , o o of A br therho d venerable trees , whose destruction by a Duke of Queensberry in the end of the eighteenth centur y stirred the poets B urns and

Wordsworth into mournful verse . Some were so large as to produce the impression of an antiqui ty antecedent to the advent of the Douglases into Nithsdale in the four teen th D rumlan ri century . The policies of gcontain a sycamore 10 0 feet high and 18 feet 3 inches in girth at 8 5 feet above ground , as well as an oak 9 feet h igh

40 DUMFRIES S HIRE

10 60 8 0 feet girth and feet h igh , and 9 feet girth and fir 1 10 0 feet h igh ; silver , 7 feet 5 inches girth and feet 1 2 6 high ; oak , 3 feet inches girth and 9feet high ; beech ,

1 0 1 3 feet 9inches girth and 7 feet high ; sycamore , 4 feet 60 1 9 inches girth and feet h igh ; Spanish chestnut , 4 feet 1 6 girth and 55 feet h igh ; l ime, 3 feet inches girth and

“ H oddom: Th e k ind b eec h - rows

0 10 0 7 feet h igh ; ash , feet 9inches girth and 7 feet high ; 1 60 Huntingdon willow , 3 feet 9 inches gi rth and feet high . The trees around Closeburn Castle exhi bit large pro an 16 8 portions, oak measuring feet inches in circum 18 1 P ference , a beech feet inch , an ash in the Town ark

2 6 8 Shawsholm1 feet inches , an ash at 9 feet 4 inches, NAT URAL HIS TORY 41

Shawsholm and a Scots fir at , these measurements being

taken at 2 feet above ground .

fir 10 A silver , straight as an arrow , 5 feet h igh adorns

the woods of Bonshaw, and stands beside a gigantic poplar

rooted by the Kirtle . Similar fine examples stand on the w banks of the Esk bet een Langholm and Canonbie .

L ochw ood Oaks

T he remnant of the old oak forest around Lochwood

Tower, where gnarled , rugged , hoary specimens, many m 1 illf 8 st of the over feet in ci rcumference , l ourish , are

n probably the most interesting trees in the county . O either side of the ruined tower stand an equall y massive ash and elm in vigorous life . These giants, the two great R willows on the Cundy oad , T hornhill , the yews of 42 DUMFRIES S HIRE

D rumlanri Snade gand , Dunscore , and many others equally t nfofble , indicate how very sui able Dumfriesshire is for a orestation . There is a wonderful variety of flowering plants and of grasses in th is region , four hundred of the better known genera being represented between the sea - shore and the h ill tops . The distribution of plant l ife is interesting . Ca/m ' l moularzs The ling ( g ) , blaeberry , daisy , thyme ,

s lwaticum crowberry , thistle, geranium (y ), bugle , clover '

Tri alzumre ens - v iolet wood- ( f p ), watercress , dog , sage, male

- fern and other well known plants reach high altitudes .

Foxglove and wild hyacinth are common up to 1 10 0 feet . — Ranunculus and Primula up to 60 0 feet the peat - hag

. O f 2 l imit Carex there are 35 varieties, of ferns 4, of

16 1 in 1 Salix ( 3 being Nithsdale , 4 in Annandale , and P 16 10 5 in Eskdale), of otamogeton , of rush , of Poa 10 6 , of Lycopodium 5, of Equisetum , and of M yosotis 5 . The following rare Flora flourishes

1 O n : Man ( ) the seashore horned poppy , Isle of cab

- - bage , sea rocket , sea holly, parsley dropwort , sawwort , ’

- sea cat s tail grass .

- fl 2 m : ( ) In hol pastures and shady places globe ower , ’

- - monkshood , narrow leaved bitter cress , dusky crane s bill , dwarf whi n , viscid Bartsia .

: An (3) In mosses and bogs Engl ish sundew, marsh dromeda , pale butterwort , prickly fen sedge, whorled caraway .

n : (4) O river sides and in water great watercress ,

- allwort w . , upright vetch , cowbane , quill ort , water pepper NATURAL HIS TORY 43

(5) O n hilly pastures and rocky places : vernal sand ’ wort , alpine chickweed , alpine enchanter s nightshade,

laved W c ut e saxifrage , baldmoney , intergreen (two varieties) , interrupted clubmoss .

6 n : P ( ) O high lands alpine meadow rue , spring oten tilla , alpine saxifrage , alpi ne Saussurea . Th e following ferns are found —Tunbridge filmy fern

H mcno b illum ( y p j parsley fern , sea spleenwort , green maidenhai r, alpine woodsia , holly fern . f m O the vertebrates a goodly nu ber survi ve . The

- - horns of a rei ndeer , with the bones of roe deer , red deer , ' Bos rimz enius Ursus p g , and the skull of the brown bear ( arctos - t r ) , found under a peamt bog on he Shaw prope ty, indicate some of the ani als formerly existing here . The horns of a wild ox were found in Glencairn parish

1 0 6 : in 9 the skull of another, found in a Nithsdale moss,

M Pen G . is preserved in the rierson useum , Thornhill

1 2 D rumlan ri nant , in 77 , saw a herd of the wild cattle in g

Park . They were driven away about the end of the

- eighteenth centu ry . The red deer became extinct locally

18 1 also - in 5, as d id the roe deer . The latter , however, half has been reintroduced for a century and is increasing .

The fallow deer , where existing, is a domesticated animal . 18 1 The wild cat was last seen about . The squirrel , m 3 after beco ing scarce , has begun to increase again . The foumart , badger , and black rat are extinct . The weasel , ermine , and vole still survive . The brown rat and mouse are on the increase . The fox gives sport in Annandale wild and Eskdale . The wolf was a beast of chase in wild Eskdale in the thirteenth century . A small herd of 44 DUMFRIES S HIRE goats browses on Saddley oke and Brandlaw i n the wilds ff il M st l of o at . The otter hunts and is occasionally hunted in the rivers . A seal occasionally comes up the Firth , where the porpoise and several species of whale are seen

- m at times . T he hedge hog is co mon . The rabbi t and m European hare are subj ects of com erce , and the moun tain , or wh ite hare , long confined to the h igh h ills on the watershed , is now i ncreasing on i nland moorlands . The adder is less plentiful ; the lizard is not uncommon . The

w- M ff glo worm is common in T ynron , o at , and some other places . O f the Avifauna a good report can be made , there

0 1 being no fewer than 7 residential species, 3 summer 1 0 6 v isitants, 3 winter visitants, 3 occasional visitors, 5 species captured in the district , and 39 specimens not completely authenticated . To begin with the larger — bi rds it is about forty years since the last golden eagle 18 2 was noticed in Nithsdale . About 5 a very fine Speci men was shot in Morton parish and longpreserved in Burn farm . An osprey was supposed to build in Loch Skene ,

18 8 1 w an and a specimen was again seen there in , hile i at D rumlan r 18 0 . other was marked gin 4 The buzzard , “ ” or gled , wh ich formerly nested in the shire , increased 18 1— there during the time of the vole plague, 9 3, and P now appears only i n spring and winter . eregrine falcons 1 2 16 t . have from to nests ravens he samme number Th e lesser hawks are common . Th e ptar igan is extinct locally . T he capercaill ie is rare . Fourteen heronries

1 in R and 45 rookeries still exist the county . ooks and jackdaws , despite the annual slaughter of them , are not NATURAL HIS TORY 45

decreasing . The chough is only an accidental visitor . O fbirds which have been rarely seen in the shire are the great skua gull , little auk , red necked grebe , storm

W H drochelidon b brida petrel , and the hiskered tern ( y y ) .

- The bittern bleats but rarely now . The black headed 12 gull nests i n places and is on the increase . Since the

The W h i sker ed T e rn

' ‘ ’ S /zoz n ear F rz ar s Carse H o /wood in 18 an d n ow in , b , 94,

t/ze Ro al cams/z Museum y S ,

“ W P 18 8 0 —1 0 passing of The ild B i rds rotection Acts, 9 4, P O 6 and the County rotection rders under section 7 , “ ” G 18 8 Local overnment (Scotland) Act , 9, there has been a stoppage of the cruel practice of destroying rare

birds , and a consequent i ncrease of such beautiful birds

ldfmch o as the B ritish jay , kingfisher , g , tufted duck, 46 DUMFRIES S HIRE

“ nightjar, cuckoo , owl , lapwing, and the smaller minstrels ” of the grove . In summer the warbling of bi rds in the woodlands is a characteristic of the county . The intelligent occupation of shootings has helped the increase of the more harmless members of the winged t ribe , and the necessary preservation of the stock of the

1 edible order . The shootings in Dumfriessh ire , 44 in n umbe r are , now the basis of an important industry l t hat of game rearing and preserving . The pheasant , 1 introduced some years before 794, together with the increasing woodcock and snipe , have a p rominent place

Lao us Scoticus in the woodlands . T he red grouse ( gp ),

Tetrao tetrix the black grouse and his grey hen ( ), and the partridge, notwithstanding thei r annual disasters , are

18 6 2 plentiful . In 9 no fewer than 47 blackcock fell in one royal shoot at Kirkconnel .

The lochs and sea - margins are v ocalwith the sharp screams of dotterel , sandpiper , goose, duck , gull , tern , and other waders , swimmers, and divers , of wh ich there is a delighftful variety . O the freshwater fishes of t he Solway area , that is,

Lochr an 2 0 . from the Esk to y , there are varieties

Nearly every stream contains trout ; rivers have trout ,

- sea trout , grayling, and salmon . N early every loch has “ ” R pike or gedd . oach is got in Annan and Lochar ; chub in Annan ; bream in Lochmaben lochs and Annan ; smelt in N ith and Annan ; and tench in U pper Nithsdale .

T here are also little goby, stickleback, flounder , minnow ,

. loach , and Allis shad . Eels and lamprey are common

The sea lamprey comes up the rivers to spawn . The

ROUND THE COAS T 49

than six miles from Dumfries . Here there are 14 feet

of water at h igh tide .

After this point the bank , cut by the river , begins to widen out and is known as Blackshaw Bank—six miles long from Nith to th e channel of the Lochar and three

Priestside miles broad . Thereafter the bank is called P f Bank and stretches other four miles to ow oot . A

good road runs parallel to the Nith , and passingthe base 2 P of Banks H ill ( 97) and lantation , leads to the mag — “ ” n ificen t ruined castle of Caerlaverock the Ellangowan ’ annerin Gu M . of Sir Walter Scott s novel , y g Th is moated stronghold of the Maxwells stands less than 50 feet above

sea - level and is partly sheltered by a wood th rashed with ' o - eat ofe s th sea winds and Spindrift . South castle lies a small merse on the upper edge of which are found th e

Saltcot h ills, remin iscent of the manufacture of salt here

612 M n i . 1 o en n ie in the olden time Writing in , John p “ Sulwa says, Upon the banks of y i n June and July the fl country people gather up the sand within the ood marke ,

bringing it to land , and laying it in great heaps , thereafter they take the salt spring water and cast it upon the sand , with a certai n device causing the water to run through the sand into a hollow purposely made to receive the

bo led water , wh ich water being y in a little vessel of lead there is made thereof good whyte salt after the temperance 7 ) — of the weather . Between the B row well , with its sad P memories of dying Burns, and owfoot many of these al t pits are visible . Further east from S tco s the dark stream of Lochar, after many a bend , touches the Solway just opposite the fine woods around the old castle and modern 4 5 0 DUMFRIES S HIRE — mansion of Gomlongon aseat of the Earl of Mansfield — G R . and near to the olf links , one m ile south of uthwell O n this southern coast the territory does not rise 10 0 feet

- above sea level until the parish of Cummertrees is reached , when a bank of that height is found j ust above Queens P berry Bay and t he village of owfoot . Here the small Pow P stream called the burn falls into the Solway . owfoot

- is a growing fashionable watering place of recent creation .

- A few years ago, an insignificant hamlet of white washed

- houses , occupied by fishermen , less than a mile south west of Cummertrees village , it has been transformed into a l ively summer resort , where amid ornamental grounds, or on greens for tennis and bowling , the bracing breezes offthe Firth may be enj oyed . T hence for two miles inland the ground lies low and f P lat, and at three miles from owfoot the Waterfoot of

- Annan is reached , after the traveller half way has passed , M near the shore , N ewbie Cottages, and thereafter the ains and ruined fortalice of Newbie . Newbie T ower was formerly a seat ofthe Johnstones . A little distance west of Newbie Cottages the boundary line between the Solway

IS ‘ laC The Firth and the channel of the river Eden p C d. 1 e tide , however , goes 4 mil s beyond th is point up to Al ison ’s Bank Farm a mile distant from Gretna Green village .

Barn kirk P At oint , Annan Waterfoot , a l ighthouse stands, and from th is point the river Annan takes almost a semicircular course for nearly two miles up to Annan town and quay . Steam vessels of over 5 0 0 tons can sail up to this quay . ROUND THE COAS T 5 1 A magnificent railway viaduct spans the channel of

Seafield the river Eden , and stretches from to a spot near

O n e B owness on the English shore . mile and a half east

orno kbrow fl D c of the viaduct the Eden , near , ows into — two channels - Eden and B owness Wath and thei r waters meet again beneath the viaduct . The Dornock

fishin s m n fi gwere for erly very rich . O the green elds of

S ol way V iaduct

2 th M 1 Dornock, on 5 arch , 333, was fought a battle between Sir Antony Luc and the Knight of Liddesdale , y m in which the latter was defeated and captured , any Scots also being killed . The vast mud flats between the two kingdoms open

Torduff out , and at a point south of the rivers Esk and

Eden unite . Here the Esk becomes the national boundary , — 4 2 5 2 DUMFRIESS HIRE and its circuitous channel reaches to a point east of Red

Rain atrick kirk point , where formerly stood p Church .

Here the waters of the Kirtle and the Sark , just united

C loc hmab en stan e

ld fl O G . to the south of retna, ow i nto the Esk Above th is point Sark becomes the boundary . O n S the flat land between the Kirtle and the ark , at O ld G their junction , on the farm of retna, a few yards ROUND THE COAS T 5 3 — above h ighwater mark , stands a historic stone , called

Cloc hmabenstane , the last of a circle of stones wh ich stood there . It is a granite boulder over 7 feet in height, 1 m and 7 feet in circu ference . At it the wardens of a the m rches held their Courts i n the olden time . Here — was the termination of the Scottish ford at Sulwath the ford by wh ich the opposing armies often crossed ; and

- b - opposite to it , on the English shore , is Burgh y Sands ,

Cloc hmabenstan e where King Edward I died . Around , 2 rd O 1 8 in t he battle of Sark , on 3 ctober , 44 , Hugh P Douglas defeated ercy with great slaughter . The velocity with which the tide careers up Solway

Fi rth with a h igh breast of waters is remarkable , and th is characteristic inspired S i r Walter Scott to compare with “ it impulsive human affection : Love flows like the ” “ ” Solway and ebbs like its tide . In the winter season ,

writes Neilson , the historian of the Solway , the scene , fi impressive under any conditions, is much i ntensi ed , especially if the tide is high and there is a southerly

gale behind . Then the sea approaches with great speed , gaining as it goes : the wave is white with tumbling foam ; a great curve of broken surf follows in its wake and the white horses of the Solway ride in to the end of their long ” gallop from the Irish sea with a deep and angry roar . 5 4 DUMFRIES S HIRE

. C G 9 oastal ains and Losses . The present configuration of t he lowland portions of the shire , which have records for centuries of tillage on the same areas without perceptible change , leads to the conclusion that ‘ i t is only under the surface on the one u hand , or h igh p on the ridges on the other , we can find proof either of the loss or gain of land by the action

. hill of the sea In the locality of Queensberry, on a

Locherben beh ind , are observable three parallel lines of

8 0 10 0 0 1 10 0 res ec terraces at the height of 9 , , and feet p iv l arroch t e . G y T he lower ledge, running from to fCfapel Burn , is broken at Capel and exhibits a base of sti red boulder clay , overlai d with a stratum of fine sand , in turn covered with well water - worn grav el i ntermingled with sand . When the sea laved these high margins few eminences between Hutton and Corrie and the confines of Kirkcudbright emerged out of the waters covering

G . Annandale , N ithsdale and lencairn The sea on the west side has a barrier in Griffel and its spurs ; but on the east side of the Nith a long ridge rising up from Dumfries to Trohoughton an old fort and beacon , runs south and tapers out at the sea P shore . arallel to this ridge , another ridge four miles

- Barn kirk away descends to sea level at Point . Between M 0 these parallels lies Lochar oss, a little over 4 feet above

- sea level . T radition has preserved its suggestive h istory

O nce a wood an d syne a sea w and No a moss aye will be .

5 6 DUMFRIES S HIRE

1 . th rough 4 feet of clay, gravel was struck Into the clay , where marine shells were found , the roots of a fir tree had penetrated . B eside it were remains of charred wood , bundles of moss , and traces of phosphate of i ron , as if i ndicating the work . of man . The recession of th e sea had thus permitted the growth of vegetation , and the woodland had been again submerged and covered 0 with the later deposits . A 5 feet beach stretches from

P M Car en holm ark near axwelltown southwards to g , and in the flats of Cargen a later beach of 2 5 feet i n heigh t indicates the recession of the sea . These have their corresponding levels on the banks of Mouswald and

merselan d Ruthwell . But utilitarian gains of have been small . At its lower part the Lochar Water was confined within constructed embankments which on giving way permitted the river to overflow lands al ready reclaimed and to make a new channel through the sand and silt . At the head of the estuary important changes have taken place in h istorical times . A carefully prepared map dating

1 2 from 5 5 shows what these changes have been , and how S the olway has been receding, leaving inland many broad acres now under the plough . The high contour l ines around G retna indicate how strong have been the efforts of the tide to wash away that solid barrier under which the rivers have laid thei r ever increasing deposits forming a larger delta . Th is map shows with great precision above Redkirk Point (2 5 feet) a sketch of the handsome structure of a church , with tower and steeple , called

Rain atrick p , then existing, wh ich has been entirely washed COAS TAL GAINS AN D LOS S ES

away together with the foreland by the sea . At th is place the monks of Holme C ultrambeyond Solway possessed saltworks wh ich were ultimately acquired by the monks

1 of Melrose in 2 94. I n living memory the Eden and the Solway tide have encroached on land between Seafield and Dornockbrow the latter name indicating a sligh t elevation—and removed a merse from 60 to 8 0 feet broad . Barricades erected to stop these encroachments were swept away by high tides and the sea remained conqueror . A contemporary 162 chronicler records in November, 7, the excessive rise “ of the Solway tide , which surrounded the house of

O ld- - of Cock pool , carried seventeen of the salt makers

R . on uthwell Sands, and destroyed many cattle

10 . C m f l i ate and Rai n al l .

T he position of Dumfriessh ire , surrounded on three sides by high h ills, and on the fourth side lapped by the warm western seas , tends to the creation of a climate on the whole mild and productive of fertility and longevity .

The force of wind and saline rain , driven from the ocean e t into th valleys , is moffderated by the interposi ion of many h igh barriers which a ect atmospheric conditions, so that sunshine , shower , mist , and drying winds have a relative m distribution , i n consequence of which the cli ate is temperate as to heat and rain . Within the county there

- are twenty four meteorological stations , including the national one at Eskdalemuir . The names and positions of the th ree affording statistics given here are D rumlanrig 5 8 DUMFRIES S HIRE

G M 1 1 - ardens i n iddle N ithsdale , 9 feet above sea level ; 1 C omlon on R Dumfries , 5 5 feet ; g in uthwell , 74 feet .

Car en 8 Kirkcud To these may be added g , 5 feet , on the of w bright side the Nith belo Dumfries . Thus every variation can be appraised . The average barometer for the year 190 9 taken at the Crichton Institution , D umfries , above the tidal l imit , G was but there was a h igher reading at argen ,

D rumlan ri and a lower at wooded g. For the past fifty years the average barometer recorded at Cargen indicated

and that is the mean of all the records , between th the h ighest , which occurred on 9 January , 18 6 8 th 9 , and the lowest , which was read on 6 18 8 . December , T he temperature recorded for 190 9was on the general G average Fah r . ; but at argen a l ittle h igher , 0 and on an average of 5 years there or h igher . ° The last highest records are 8 2 at D rumlan rigon 13th ° 1 0 8 ardin ton July, 9 9, and 7 at J g on the preceding day ; th u and the lowest at Eskdalemui r on 2 7 Jan ary . The highest temperature for 50 years was taken

Car en 18 6 at g in August , 7 , and the lowest taken there 18 60 in December , , was The h ighest annual average temperature was in 18 68 with the barometer at 18 2 and the lowest , in 9 with the barometer

1 1 at Snow fell on 9 days duri ng 90 9. The w temperature of the Sol ay Firth , having th e benefit of “ ” the Atlantic D rift of heated surface water, is higher of than that the rivers falling into it , and its water has

t e ai a h igher temperature than h r. t‘reoo Cumbn dge Un w. R ainfall map ofS c otland A t M. B A n drew lVat . ( y , ) 60 DUMFRIES S HIRE

The last general average rainfall was inches ,

r en 1 with slightly over 50 inches at Cag . Here in 90 9 the fall was nearly 3 inches over that average , and nearly 8 3 0 5 i nches over the average of 5 years , which was 18 2 The wettest year, 7 , showed i nches , and the

ar en 1 0 18 8 0 C . driest , , only inches at g In 9 9 the

arbruc k G wettest areas in the county were around J , len

Kinn elhead cairn , , B eattock , Langholm

ff rai i ln s M C e ad (Westwater), o at ( g ), Ewes ,

Car en D rumlan ri g , Eskdalemui r , g,

m — o ban k There are d ry spots around Du fries J y , C omlon on g , Crichton Institution , S tations at Canonbie , Lochmaben and Lockerbie showed over 45 inches ; but two other stations at Lochmaben indicated or an excess of 3 2 upon an average of

18 years . The average rainfall at 73 stations i n Scotland was so that , except in Dumfries itself, the average is for the county above th e general average of the kingdom .

Dumfriesshire enj oys about one - third of th e possible 1 10 sunshine . During 9 the sunshine recorded at Com

R 1 m 1 68 longon , uthwell , was 444 hours, at Du fries, 3 ,

12 . 2 2 and at Eskdalemui r, 75 The h ighest record was 3 Ma C omlon on 1 in y at g , and the lowest 3 in December 12 0 at D umfries . The average per month was at Com 1 1 m 10 6 m longon , 4 at Du fries , and at Eskdale ui r . From M 1 2 arch to September , the average was above 5 , computed from t he th ree registers .

8 6 . c The humidity of the shire is p . Wh ile at some stations the weather is not registered as calm or variable , at others it is proved to be very variable . Few CLIMATE AND RAINFALL 61

- - five . thunder storms occur . Twenty per cent of days are overcast . the The prevailing winds are out of the west quarter ,

- t north west wind however blowing, a one station , one

- third more days than the south west wind , wh ich shows a considerable shifting towards due west , where the lofty

Galloway ranges cause dev iations . According to observa

Car en tions made at g , which has its own peculiar wind 1 0 10 8 1 0 8 record , in 9 9 the west wind blew days , in 9 ,

12 1 0 12 1 1 0 6 6 . 9 days, and in 9 7, days, but in 9 only 9 days

D rumlan ri G The variations noted at g, Dumfries, and argen m are re arkable . Easterly wind is not prominent . Take for example the differences of direction of wind shown at 1 0 three places contemporaneously in January , 9 9, reckon ing from north round by east and south to north again

- Drumlanri 0 0 0 2 0 2 2 o . g, north , , , , , , 4 west , , 34 n rth west — mf 1 2 n . o 6 1 2 0 8 Du ries , n rth , , , 3 , 7 , 3 , , orth west

- Car en 1 0 0 0 0 1 6 2 8 1 o . g , north , , , , , , , 7 n rth west

fl ff This proves how surroundings in uence climatic e ects . D rumlan righas an immunity from thunderstorms and

in m m ar en gales co parison with Du fries and C g . At the

- latter station the mean wind force is sometimes higher, r u sometimes lowe than at D mfries, although it is in no place excessive , being seldom scaled above 3 . The gales which devastated Scotland in 18 79 and 18 8 3 spent their full force on the woods of the county and levelled hundreds of thousands of splendid trees .

The conjoint interaction of sunshine , rain , mist and breeze makes the climate agreeable and invigorating, while 62 DUMFRIES S H IRE the facility for artificial drainage is another factor in the increasing immunity of the inhabitants from diseases wh ich were formerly a sore scourge . Everywhere there is a conspicuous absence of dust in the atmosphere , there being few public works to pollute it with smoke and less l than usual road dust swir ed up from the tough h ighways, — which are made aof the best kind of macadam felstone dolerite and the h rdest greywacke .

— ll. P T L eople Race , y pe , anguage , P opulation . Many races have contri buted their blood to form the e D u native population on th soil mof mfries ; and , i n con sequence , although many fa ilies bear ancient names, t and trace their origin to a remote an fiquity , there is no . O distinctive type of individuals left the aborigines , of G G P an Iberian type, of wh ich the away or alwegian icts were probabl y the expi ring remnant , there are so few traces that conjecture takes th e place of record . In that part of Northern Britain to wh ich early geographers assigned the honourable place - name of Valentia in which R Dumfriesshire was included , the omans found the

Selovae folk called g , probably hunters, keeping to the

N ovantae east side of N ovios or Nith , and the also

N iduari P known as and icts, upon the N ith and westward

n from it . O the south side of the Solway th ey located M m B rigantes, who occupied part of the province of axi a

ariensis Caes . T he B rigantes, evidently a B rythonic

64 DUMFRIES S HIRE

and named Karrs or Kerrs, Carsons, Carruthers , Carlyles

C rechtons ' Kirk atricks or Carls, , p , locally known as Caer patrifcks, may be the descendants of the early holders of the orts . In turn the B riton or Welshman was overrun by two streams of Celts , one coming di rect from Ireland and

’ C raigen puttoc k : Carly l e s H ou se

another circuitously descending out of north - west Strath clyde . It may be suspected that they found traces of a primitive people l ike themselves , with a similar if not an identical tongue . Their teachers brought the cult of P M atrick , Bridget and ichael to churches named after G these patron saints . I f the conquest of the ael was not — 5 P OP R P G G . 6 E LE ACE , TY E, LAN UA E , ETC

- complete their fixture of place names was , so that th is find area might still a place in th e Highlands , so prevalent

aucloens bens lens clans drums bracts minn s are the , , g , , , , y and

ie m corr s. Families too are proud of old , not i ported , clan names— for the clan system survived to the fifteenth

Mac Ror Mac Math Mac C ubbin Mac century . y , , , G MacC riric k Mac Douall Mac D ou al owan , , , g (Dubhgall),

Mac Lac hlan Lochlan Mac C ulloc h Mac Murdo Ma ( ), , ,

‘ Mac Ewan C eallac h Mac Michael gachan , , Kellock ( ), ,

h i Mac re or illan M le r e . G Mac M ac t e . , g y ( g) are local

m C names of people , some of who had hieftains, or feudal lords to own and protect .

Radnulf A charter of the twelfth century , given by , ” n e al D ron fr D u es il son of g, at , was witnessed by G

Glen don rut Bretnac h Gilcomal christ , son of B run , , g Mac ilblaan Udard i g , , son of Uttu , Walder son of G l

” ’ N ith C hrist . Here we see the vassals or friends of sdale s

- great over lord drawn from all the races, from the ab m il original to the Teuton and Nor an . G comgalMac — ’ — gil blaan , that is, the servant of the monastery the son of the servant of (Saint) Blaan , is a most interesting reminiscence of the Celtic monastic cell of Saint Blaan

C aerlaveroc k in parish , and a reminder of an ecclesiastical

. G descent B run , Blain , and ilchrist are still family names in the sh ire .

. f D umriesians Thus the fusions went on For a time , like the Swiss of some cantons , may have been trilingual .

T he mixed population next met invading English , Danish , and Viking Northmen . A notable instance of the heroic S racial pirit is recorded regarding a B ritish leader , named

H . D . 5 66 DUMFRIES S HIRE

8 Constantine, who fell at Lochmaben , in 79, in a gallant attempt to lead his countrymen to the aid of the Mother land in Wales . The earl ier Scandinavian emigrants , who crossed the seas to settle in eastern England , in course of t ime found their way across Northumbria to the C eltic t region of Dumfries, where they left races in numerous

- R place names, and , probably later , in the runes on uth well Cross . Everywhere one finds localities distinguished by Anglo - Danish words bearing on their composition ’ ’ — aale - artb - wala mre J oau l) - cleucb - sly aw - ourn , g , , y , g, , , ,

- lo l water o nz . , and many others w The coming of the Northmen round the est coasts, fi in viking exped itions, nally to settle in Cumberland , G Dumfries and alloway as farmers , had a modifying effect upon the tongue of the earlier Scandinavian and

Danish conquerors, of wh ich there are manifest traces on both sides of the B orders . T he residence of the North

er o Har fl t e l man is remembered in Arkland ( g, a sheiling),

ell W beck G P (f , a hill), aterbeck ( , a stream), South rain ike

rain M oie (g , a tributary brook), iddlebie and Lockerbie ( ,

Murrathwaite thwaite a farm), y ( , a clearing, or ol d pasture ’ Burnhead sce tr loe a land), Burnside and ( , a pasture, an d j , R Riddin s a head), The igg, The g, and many another place . Indeed when the modern farmers in these places

u - bris speak of the elding (f el), rice fence ( ), the sile or siler sill ( , a sieve), the handsel a bargain), a gowpen

au a év la full (g p , both hands full), a quey ( g, a young

ho es sites ills cow) and when the poachers of the p , and g “ “ ” lostr of Eskdale refer to the leister (j ) or waster , — — “ with its witters barbs and the rough ies , or dry — P OP R P G G . 6 E LE ACE , TY E , LAN UA E , ETC 7

branches which light the burned water, they are using the nomenclature of their predefcessors there—the North . O men , farmers and hunters a Frisian settlement i n

Dumfries, wh ich by some is supposed to mean the fort of the Frisians , there is no trace , and no record . To what extent the residence of the Northmen and the infusion of Norse blood changed the native population

v . O n e and the vernacular we ha e l ittle evidence church , m ’ at least, bears a North an s name, Closeburn (Kil ,

sbiorn fl O ) . The in uence of the Angl ian may be trace

in G able that similarity to modern erman pronunciation , both consonantal and vocalic , which distinguishes the ’ D umfriesian s expressions , and also in the longer persist ence in the vernacular of words which come with greater fl ird nowt an ate uency from Border lips, such as, y , , g g, g ,

muck scat s oot fi b re r c . y , , , and others equally de nitive

T he introduction of Anglo - N orman settlers in Cum

ffe bria by Prince David for a timfe a cted local blood and speech to a slight degree . O the old family names

Mun dells Mounce s M — , y , enzies, B runs, Herries few survive . A century ago , in the old English tongue , w umfri i D es an h ich the rural Spoke , there were survivals

the - from Anglo N ormans in terms in common use, such ’ aule abbe ole aoche taclJ e almie sort as , g , p , p , , p , , and the like , which were just as likely to have survived from feudal times as to have been imported in the era of the later

Stewart monarchs .

The development of railway travell ing, by which the people can so easily sh ift their habitations , has markedly affected the stratification of the languages preserved in the — 5 2

— P OP P NG G ETC. 69 E LE RACE , TY E , LA UA E , local vernacular , and even the broader accent is on the wane . Still on the Borders there is a dialect somewhat different from those observed in Cumberland and North

l d cc ea umber an . In Annandale, words ending in or are

ei e e- ee : oo ow : no cw pronounced , or y is pronounced or

é—u tre- li becomes ; true being pronounced y . The personal y m ffm I aw Iam oin p ronoun is pronounced . g gbeco es ’ ’ lmak sure ffs mat° sure awn Il e g . , becomes , as anciently ’ ’ z f 1 s mat siccar 0 s . it was , or , Short is generally pro ’ f a noun cedlon roa road v ice oers . g, so that a becomes a , and The letter ais often shortened to permit a more l iquid

a l ci- ll 1 w . sound to follow the letter , thus becomes A n H oddom curious iteration is oticeable in , where the

i e it to m ae me t t v e i . words , g , become g In Lockerbie a couplet runs

’ ’ Y ow an me ee an the dor k e ee y , bern y , ’ ” s w h w The o an t e threy ee ey ee pigs .

I n Canonbie the pronoun tbou is pronounced ta; is is “ ” art are used for both and . Is ta gawn tae Kerle " ffi “ ” (Carl isle) is answered a rmatively I is . The peculiarities in the dialect of Nithsdale are fast

n e dying out . O still hears the following exchanges ’ ’ ’ z lm ee r bo s ly e e ees (I am), (you are , thou art), y , y (he is), ’ ’ ’ ’ oo r ir ee r tbd r was (we are), y and (you are) , (they are),

war Ives mic/J t cc l (was), (were) , (has), (might), (could), wild wad sad wall man or (would), (should), (will), (must),

"

- - - / ia an 12 z baaden idden h . and ing), for ( for ) A good “ specimen of the Nithsdale patois is the following : Can ’ ’ ’ ’ ’ ye gie s a wee puckle o 0 0 to stap i the nebs 0 ma ’ ’ shoon , for they re unco shauchly and they ll coup me 70 DUMFRIES S HIRE owre i ’ the glauffr Can you give me a small particle of wool to stu in the points of my shoes, because they are very capsiz eable and they will turn me over in the mud In 190 1 the population of Scotland was

- of whom or one sixty seventh part , resided in

Dumfriesshire , there being males and

6 . females , or 7 persons to every square mile Dumfries shire was thus fourteenth ofthe counties for numbers 1 1 1 S of inhabitants . In 9 the population of cotland had

i ncreased to persons, and t hat of this county

to persons . The inhabitants of the county now

- fifh t form one sixty part of the entire population , and in regard to their other relations stand precisely the same as

18 8 1 before . In the population of t he county was 18 1 18 0 1 in 5 , and in ,

12 A . gricu ltu re .

After the cessation of the wars with England , the Scottish Borderers devoted themselves assiduously to

tillage and the rearing of cattle and sheep . Great impetus was given to agriculture i n the end of the eighteenth century th rough new methods introduced by

Sir James Ki rkpatrick of Closeburn , and his successors

S - Men teiths K elhead the tuart , by Douglas of , and P M atrick iller of Dalswinton and others, who converted poor lands i nto show estates by improved drainage and fli o me M the advantageous use . In iddle Nithsdale farmers

72 DUMFRIESS HIRE

Large tracts are required for turnips and swedes , acres yielding tons of these roots ; 3450 acres produce tons of potatoes ; and 30 5 acres 8 2 produce 4 4 tons of mangold .

1 Among other products are beans 4 acres, peas 4, 6 1 2 2 0 . carrots 34, onions , cabbage , and rape 3 4 acres fl No ax is grown . There are many sheltered and sunny

n patches suitable for fruit growi g, but this industry has

2 1 not become popular . Apples grow on 27 acres, pears m 2 8 1 on cherries on plu s on 4, and there are 3 2, of 2 8 mixed orchards . Strawberries are grown on acres , 2 0 raspberries on currants and gooseberries on 5, and 2 there are 34acres of mixed small fruit . Th e work of this vast region employs 58 78 horses 1 8 68 t including brood fmares , and young horses awai . O breaking in cattle upon the fields, are cows and heifers, and are calves and older fl fl cattle . is the grand total of the eecy ock, of r t which are ewes kept fo s ock , and f f8 6 10 6 . O . O lambs 54 pigs, 9 are breeding sows the 65 17 men and 1393 women employed in agriculture in

1 0 1 6 . 9 , 3 44 were farm servants The latter number was a decrease of 12 1 1 men since 18 8 1 . The distribution of the various breeds of sheep in the county is interesting, cheviots being kept for breeding on the green hills of the districts round Lang

m M ff . hol , Lockerbie , o at , Closeburn , and Sanquhar Blackfaced sheep to the number of are kept on the h igh uplands and heathery h ills of the north and west . fl n m Small ocks of Leicesters and Yorkshi res, u bering AGRICULTURE 73

2 0 0 0 about , graze on farms around Dumfries, Lockerbie O ff Shro M ff. and o at Crossbreds, x fords, Su olks and p

2 0 0 0 n shires, in all , are seen on good farms ear th e

Solway . The South Down , Dorset and Spanish breeds m are also represented in s all numbers . In all ewes form the breeding stock of the sheep—masters in

Dumfries . The cattle trade is to the farmer a matter of first

- . importance , and sales of live stock are periodically held in

Dumfries, Annan , Langholm , Lockerbie , Thornhill and

Carl isle . The following are the numbers annually dis posed ofin the auction marts of one firm : Langholm 60 0 (fat and store stock), cattle , sheep Dumfries 2 0 0 (fat stock) , cattle 5 , sheep Lockerbie (fat and 2 0 0 store stock), cattle 7 , sheep In addition

1 10 0 1 0 0 . pigs and 5 calves are sold At Annan , the numbers of l ive stock sold are increasing year by year .

- 0 0 A speciality is the sale of short horn bulls , 9 being M disposed of at special spring auctions . any store cattle Ma are sold in y and June , and lambs after

Lammas .

At the mart , Thornhill station , duringthe past five 12 8 years, the average sales have been 7 cattle , 6 1 sheep , 4 calves, and 9 pigs, of the value of

1 0 - annually . In 9 7 nearly worth of live stock h was sold ere . The White Sands of Dumfries have for generations

- been famous for the sales of horses and other l ive stock . t r r Seedmmarke s a e also held in Locke bie , Annan and Du fries in the spring .

AGRICULTURE 75 The acres devoted to timber growing prod uce a considerable tonnage of both soft and hard wood , wh ich — is required for props in pits, fences , cart building, and various other industries .

1 . I f 3 ndustries and Manu actu res .

and The volume and value of the industries, trades , manufactures of the county may be calculated from the number of persons employed in the various branches of 1 1 10 activity . In 90 agriculture employed 79 workers and domestic service required 4935 persons of whom 0 2 1 8 4 53 were women . Building requi red 5 hands ,

1 12 2 1 besides workers in quarries 4 , 3 men preparing

0 . wood , and 9 brick makers The latter number includes 1 18 2 . M tile makers etal workers numbered , and workers in precious metals 1 15 . The textile industries employed 8 8 5 men and 10 65 women : 8 92 men and 148 8 women were engaged i n making into dress these as well as imported goods, while 2 39 drapers sold them . Commerce connected with this and other industries was carried on by 58 5 persons who required 2 12 8 carriers and transport agents . Skinners and tanners numbered 1 16 stationers and other workers with paper were 192 ; workers in chemicals numbered 16 75 , and there were 37 general dealers . No fewer than 1990 men and women were engaged catering for the 12 2 0 — others ; and professional men and women teachers, doctors , lawyers etc . , and 359 public servants looked after 76 DUMFRIES S HIRE

. O the education , health , and peace of the community ver 50 0 0 malems and females of working age had no specified e ployment .

The great sales of sheep and cattle at Dumfries,

Annan , Lockerbie , Langholm and Thornh ill , and the disposal of the various cereals, are productive of work and fl wealth . Nurseries for trees, shrubs , and owers around ffl Dumfries and Annan a ord abour for many hands . Th e al shi re is not an industrial and manufacturing centre , though certain industries continue to thrive i n it . The

n Gatelawbrid e extensive sa dstone quarries of g, Closeburn ,

A n nan lea C orsehill Locharbriggs, , Cove, Corncockle , and others, which formerly had a large export trade, have recently decreased their output ; and the limestone

Bar ar K elhead quarries at Closeburn , j gand have not n bee so active as formerly . The mining industry in

Kirkconnel is increasing . Lead working in Wanlockhead fl still ourishes . A new ind ustry has been recently started on Iron hirst M M oss, part of the great Lochar oss belt , for the utilisation of the peat, wh ich is converted into compressed peat blocks m and into sul phate of am onia , under new processes . Large numbers of the inhabitants of Dumfries town are engaged in various mills and works on both sides of the river , wherein cereals are ground , and yarns spun and woven into tweeds, gloves, hosiery and other articles for wearing . D umfries tweeds , gloves , and silk underclothing have a h igh reputation in the market , and demand for them is on the increase . Tan works still exist . Forges for the production of agricultural implements and engineering INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 77

m ' shops employ considerable nu bers of mechanics . To carriage building, for which the town was well known , motor - building has been added ; while the making of

laun dr in jams and confectionery, dyeing and y ggive employment to many hands . Beinmg the chief emporium for a large agricultural area , Du fries is busy in the a transaction of all kinds of commerce , and is bundantly supplied with merchants in places of business supplying the needs of a practical community . Th e sh ipping industry i n the Nith has become attenuated .

Annan , near the centre of a large agricultural district , is similarly busy , having engineering works, the famous “ P O 3 7 mills for making rovost ats , some shipping trade , distilling “ Johnie Walker wh iskey in the Annandale distillery , brickworks, nurseries, fisheries, and cattle markets . In Eaglesfield village 70 persons find employment in

- tailoring . Langholm is noted for its six tweed mills , w 660 herein male and female workers are engaged . A 0 tannery employs 3 hands . Glen Tarras Distillefrfy and Langholm D istillery , at present not working , a orded labour for others in Langholm .

At Sanquhar , in place of the thriving weaving i ndustry — which has disappeared , there are terra cotta brick working,

- brick and tile making, coal mining, a little sandstone

— in con quarrying and laundry work all , however , on an siderable scale . A most important industry has sprung up in recent — " f years in Thornh ill the bacon actory , giving employ ment to 50 hands . The latest modern plant has been set 78 DUMFRIES S HIRE down to overtake the conversion of above pigs per annum into bacon , sausages, cooked hams , and all kinds

- of table delicacies such as glass meats, braised tongues,

- - pork pies and other tid bits . Under steam pressure the bones are made to yiel d edible fat , and the residuum is used for manure . There is also a bacon curing establish ment in Sanquhar . The amount of pri nting done with in the shire is very considerable in th e production of books, the local news

u . papers , and i n the exec tion of contracts from without Large numbers of men and boys are employed in the extensive woodlands of the county, both planting and

- cutting down the ripened trees . Several estate saw mills are employed for local requirements, but large quantities of hard and soft timber are exported to mining centres and to districts manufacturing articles out of wood . In 18 97 the Charity O rganisation Society of Glasgow

Mid Locharwoods 0 0 leased , a farm of nearly 5 acres in R uthwell parish , as a labour colony for providing work for the destitute unemployed , and for the reclaiming of

M . Lochar oss The number of employees fluctuates .

T he d irectors have recently purchased the farm .

1 . 4 Mi nes and Mi nerals .

Coal , lead ore, zinc ore , silver , l imestone , igneous rocks and clay are mined and quarried in the county .

T he output , however , is limited . Coal is worked in — two areas only in Upper Nithsdale at Sanquhar and

8 0 DUMFRIES S HIRE

Westerkirk 1 8 10 0 , and before 79 had produced tons of the 8 regulus of antimony worth £ 40 0 . Working stopped ao about 2 0 years g. T here are 2 2 quarries employing 2 2 4 i n side and 62 3 outside , and thei r output is as follows igneous rock ,

8 1 6 - 8 1 5 ; clay, marl , brick earth , shale , 77 ; granite , 2 6 2 9 ; limestone , sandstone , in all

tons . The values of these products were

12 1 igneous rock , including granite , £ 74 ; clay , £34 ; 1 10 limestone , £ 9 ; sandstone , Th is shows a considerable decrease from the output of former years .

The new - red - sandstone quarries of the county are famous for stone suitable and easily wrought for build ing purposes and monuments locally , and i n request in cities on account of weathering qualities when in contact with smoke and other deleterious elements in the atmosphere . The most

Gatelawbrid e notable of these quarries are Closeburn , g, hill Corse . Locharbriggs , , Cove and Corncockle

Th e extensive new - red - sandstone quarries i n Closeburn

1 0 parish , wh ich in 9 3 produced tons of excellent building stone , suitable for sculpture with a fine finish , 2 0 1 10 and employed 5 men, in 9 put out tons at 6 the hands of 0 men . The extensive l ime quarries at

K elhead 1 , C ummertrees, at present employ 9 men with an output of about 40 0 0 tons of lime .

No coal is exported by shi p from Dumfriessh i re , but 60 40 98 tons of coke are imported coastwise . 94 tons of coke of the value of £32 53 are manufactured in the shire . FIS HERIES 8 1

1 F . 5 . isheries The Solway Firth fromtime immemorial has been

fish famous for its , wh ich remunerated the monks of

M C ultram elrose and of Holme , and graced the royal

table from the time of the Bruce onward . The Solway fisheries have often occupied the attention of the legislature R and High Courts , while several oyal Commissions have

investigated the area , statutes , fish , nets, and other matters

relative to the Solway . There are two distinct classes of fish ing in Solway

fish the white and the red (or salmon) . The white taken fl are cod , ounders , herring ; the red are salmon , trout ,

herl ing, sparling , and shrimps . The interests of the two classes of fishers often conflict on account of the ancient

peculiar privilege of the fishers of wh ite fish , who, by an M m Act of Queen ary, were per itted to use fixed engi nes —acustom illegal elsewhere and on the English side of

the Firth .

The nets used locally are of peculiar construction . P aidle nets, used for catch ing white fish , are fixed

- engines similar to salmon stake and bag nets, but on a smaller scale . In the Annan fishery district there are “ 10 2 : wh ite fish nets , having 4 pockets in the Firth

6 - district 6 with 66 pockets . Halve or haaf nets are a

- 1 kind of bag net , 4 feet long, with three perpendicular

rods under them , one at each end , and one in the middle ,

to keep down the net . These nets are held by men in f ” the current of the ebbing or lowing tide . The hal vers , or fishers of Annan , claim the right to use these under a

H D . . 6 8 2 DUMFRIES S HIRE

“ 1 P - charter granted in 538 . oke nets are about a yard square at the mouth in form of an open bag, and are 6 suspended between stakes from to feet long, which — 7 are fixed about half way i nto the sand - at a d istance of “ “ ” - 4 feet from each other . Stake or trap nets , invented by Jmohn Little of Newbie , are nets of one or more compart ents, enclosed with netting , supported by 1 h stakes, from 5 to 5 feet igh or upwards , driven into the sand or beach , and with netting for thei r roof. They fl hfafve doors wh ich open with the in owing tide and are e ectually closed by the returning current . Two long

fish leaders guide the into these traps . T he Special Commissioners of the Solway in 18 8 1 granted to four maritime proprietors an d to the Burgh of A r man the privilege of using stake fly and bag- nets to the number

1 6 P - of 34 engines and 2 pockets . oke nets to the number of 60 0 clouts and 2 2 0 0 pockets were allowed to three h maritime proprietors and to the Burg of Annan . “ ” Whammellin g is a method of fishing on the Solway introduced in 18 55 by two fishermen named

fish lon 60 0 Woodman , whereby are caught in a gnet , to

8 0 0 . O n e yards long en d of the net , weighted on the under side and attached to a loaded pole which remains upright , is thrown from the stern of a boat mov ing across the tide and paying out all the net till it extends across fl the channel . The upper part of the net oats free with fi d in sh . the ti e , and the meshes of the net the are caught 50 Seafield About mmboats leave , Annan , and other places to wha le for salmon , draw for trout , trawl — fi h fl s . for shrimps, and beam trawl for at FIS HERIES 8 3 Another method of fishing practised at Lochmaben on “ ” - —fi hin the Annan is called cross l ine s g. The line is fi stretched between two shers , one on each bank ; from “ ” the line drop several smaller baited lines called eeks .

18 0 t In 4 , in the Dumfries and Stranraer distric , 8 4 boats and 430 fishers were employed ; and 1665

1 1 1 barrels of herring were cured . In 90 only 69 men

- and 1 woman were registered deep sea fishers . The Fishery Return (1910 ) shows that at present there exists 1 0 18 at Carsethorn boat under 3 feet and over feet , employing 18 fishermen and boys ; at Caerlav erock 2 0 fishermen and boys ; at Powfoot 13 ; at Annan 6 18 10 1 18 t boats over feet and tons, and under fee

1 of ton . No new boat was constructed in the district

in 190 9. fl The quantity of fish , especially ounders , taken

P was 10 8 between Kirkcudbright and owfoot , 4 cwts . ,

60 18 . 2 10 8 . valued at £ 4 ; and mussels £ 7 At Annan cwts , 2 1 2 0 d valued at £ 7 7, were taken ; and £ 7 4 were obtaine

- fish 10 0 0 fi for shell , being an increase of £ on this sh ing .

. t There was a decrease of shrimps, however The weigh m 2 6 of fish borne by rail was from Ar an 5 tons, Dumfries 1 1 6 —ln 2 8 5 . , Dornock , Cummertrees 3 all m tons Forty tons left Kirkcudbright . Half the inco e of the Annan fishermen was from shrimps : there was a short catch of

lobsters . Crabs and oysters increase , and half the value

- fish of shell is from oysters . The salmon fisheries for the Solway district are valued

: r m 2 1 S 12 1 as follows A an £ 9 7, Dee ( olway) £ 3 , N ith

0 6. £5 These sums show a decrease on former years .

6—2 8 4 DUMFRIES S HIRE

For the salmon , which ascends to the extreme l imits of the loth county , the close time for netting is from September

2 th The is to 4 February . close time for angling from 1 2 th Hoddom 3th November to 4 February . In Waters

- - salmon are caught w ith stake nets and poke nets . In

- Annan there are fixed engines, but no sweep nets , while

fishin s rod and l ine are i n use . In the Newbie gthe stake

- net is used . In the N ith fixed engines , sweep net, rod

- M and line are used . Sea trout appears in arch , and grilse

r m early in June in the A an and the N ith . The heaviest

1 10 8 . salmon taken in Annan i n 9 was 3 lbs , and in Nith

30 lbs . Few counties possess such facil ities as Dumfriessh ire

r m for angling, and at small cost . A an river contains

- salmon , trout , pike , perch , roach , chub , eel , sea trout ,

- grilse , and herling ; Nith , salmon , sea trout , grayling, and

n - trout ; Esk , salmon , grilse , herl i g, sea trout , and trout ;

- the Cairn , salmon , sea trout , and yellow trout . T he

- - streams all have river trout , some have sea trout and salmon . Keen fishers abound , and their interests are looked after by the following associations : Dumfries and Max G welltown Angling Association , Dumfries and alloway

P P Liddel Angling romotion and rotection Club , Esk and Mid Fisheries Association , Nithsdale Angl ing Association ,

Upper Nithsdale Angl ing Association . S HIPPING AND TRADE 8 5

S T . 16. hi ppingand rade At the beginning of the nineteenth century Dumfries

- and Annan were important sea ports, doing a large home

- and foreign trade . To day that commerce is at a mini

- 18 mum as far as water ways are concerned . In 0 9 ships P G registered at the ort of Dumfries , that is from retna to

Kirkcudbright , numbered i nward bound 493, with tonnage 18 1 and men 8 0 2 . In 35 there were 92 ships 18 with tonnage and 779 men . In 94 there was a temporary revival of import and export trade ; but in 190 9 the sh ips recorded are six B ritish inward with 6 1 0 6 4 tons, and three foreign of 5 , together with

1 - 8 - h 5 sailing ships with 37 tons , and two steam s ips of

58 tons registered . The total outwards was nil . B oth Dumfries and Annan formerly had a large foreign trade with America and the Continent . A writer in 18 1 1 states that the imports of A r man were coal , lime , slate , timber , herrings, salt , West India 2 0 0 produce and English goods discharged from vessels, 0 while 4 vessels exported grain , malt, potatoes, bacon , freestone and wood . Sixteen vessels averaging 40 tons

r each belonged to Annan . Formerly A man had a large

- - - import wine trade , while ship building and rope making were successful industries . R elying on this large and i ncreasing trade , the P authorities at much expense , under Act of arliament , had the navigation of the Nith improved and three good quays provided with in six miles of Dumfries, where 8 6 DUMFRIES S HIRE

8 0 vessels belonging to the local port loaded and d ischarged 18 1 — in 4 . A steam boat also pl ied regularly from Glencaple to Li verpool with passengers , bestial , and goods . Glencaple in 18 40 boasted of a sh ip - buildi n g yard where two vessels 60 of over tons burden were built annually . B ut the advent of the railroad destroyed all this local business, timber , goods and cattle being t ransferred to the railway ; wh ile a new wet dock at Silloth was taken ad vantage of

- by ship masters .

1 H 7 . istory ofthe County .

h The istory of this region is a narrative of strife, battery and bloodshed . The marvel is that any residue e of lif remained in that gory arena . H istorical memorials

— Birrens Birrenswark the camps at , , and other places , the inscribed stones found in these camps - remai n to

n prove the Roman conquest . O the withdrawal of the R omans a mist falls upon the doings of the warring tribes ,

Selovae N ovantae g and north of the Solway, and the u B rigantes so th of it . The district again emerges into

R dderch recorded fame when , in 573, y Hael , Christian

King of Strathclyde , defeated the pagan Welshman ,

Gwenddoleu Arder dd , at y on the English bank of the

Esk .

Dawston e 60 At , in 3, Ki ng Aidan was defeated by

helfrid E t . Successive religious waves passed over this region . In the fifth century N inian and h is British school planted the cross here . In the sixth century

8 8 DUMFRIES S HIRE

O f S the intrusion of the English into trathclyde ,

- S among the Iro cottish conquerors there , of the descent

- of Norse vikings , Iro Northmen (Dubhgalls), and the

ff - ultimate su usion of Anglo Saxons , Danes and N orth G men among the blended British and aelic population , with the result i n th e rise of the English speaking com fi munity , we have little de nite information . Halfdan , the 8 w Dane , overran this territory i n 75, hich the Northmen f made into a pleasant colony with Tinwald (Tbingv ellir)

for thei r local cap ital . The English King , Athelstan , in fl Anlaf 937 in icted a terrible defeat upon , King of Ireland ,

and a strong combination of Scots , Welsh , and Irish ,

at B runanburh . Five Kings, seven Jarls, a son of

Constantine , and two brothers of Athelstan bit the dust

there . According to one competent authority, this

r w k victory was won near Bir ens ar . The magnificent

- R rune inscribed H igh Cross at uthwell , if not a witness —fl of that battle and sea ight , may have been its piously

founded memorial . In 945 King Edmund granted

M . Cumbria to alcolm , K ing of Scotland William th e Conqueror ’s sequestration and displace ment of the Saxon lords by Norman soldiers brought the

famil ies of B rus, Jardin e, Comyn , Herries, Johnston , and

others into contiguity with the Borders . Th e sons of R the soil , if local traditions are trustworthy , were orys,

MacMaths M C rechtons Welshes, , orras, Karls, , Cruthers,

raems G F er uses G , riers , g , Eggers, I rvines, and others ’ 1 10 with Celtic names . In 7 King Edgar gave Edmund s P troublesome gift to the gallant rince David , who , with

- m the help of his Anglo Nor an associates, ruled it till his HIS TORY OF THE COUNTY 8 9

P death . For him the Scottish Borderers under rince Henry

1 1 8 fought at Northallerton in 3 . David gave th e See of Glasgow j urisdiction over the shire and over part of M m M Galloway . When alcol the aiden ceded Carlisle to Henry II , the national boundary was sh ifted to the

lewath sul sol . Su Esk The great ford was at , that is or — - acl . v the mud ford Hence arose the name Solway Firth , f Scotiswath Scotwade vaclumScoticum or or ( ), wh ich was

Traclot Komra also known as , or the Shore of the Strong

The Tide . land between the Esk and the Sark became

Sollome debateable , and Solway (more properly or Solane) Moss was made English when the boundary was fixed at S 1 the ark in 552 . The thirteenth century was noted for the munificent

D ervor illa works of g , widow of John Baliol , who founded a monastery for G rey Friars in Dumfries . In the

w 8 —1 mfri sians 12 6 1 D u e struggle it h England , 37 , the had a share , their leaders oscillatingin their allegiance between the Kings , and the people bleeding for both sides . Traditions of Wallace are still vividly narrated in folk story , which tells how he took the castles of Enoch and ’ “ Tibbers M , and spilled oreland s blood at The Sax ” ’ Corses in Kirkmichael . So is the story of Bruce s dispatch of Comyn when Kirkpatrick did “ mak siccar ” his bloody work before the altar of the Grey Friars in

aerlav e D umfries . King Edward I besieged and took C in 1 0 0 rock Castle 3 , returned to England , and d ied near Burgh - by - Sands as he was on h is way to desolate M Dumfriessh ire again . any other Kings, down to the K time of ing James V I , visited Dumfries bringing peace . 90 DUMFRIESS HIRE

But the part and lot of the Borderer was war, and was blood ever in his wine cup . B order h istory largely turns round the names of three influential families—the

M D ou laes f s . O axwells, the g , and the Johnstones the

D une al supersession of the g family of N ithsdale , and of M the Edgars, their descendants , in favour of the arch

D ou lases M D rumlan ri family and of t he g of orton and g, we have charter ev idence back to the fourteenth century . When the chief of the B rus family ascended the S r cottish throne, another very masterful Bo der chief,

M h m Caerlav erock axwell , had long established i self at , and h is family and vassals played an important part till

D ou lases they were overshadowed by the g , Lords of

G D rumlan ri alloway, the Knights of g, and the Dukes of Queensberry , and ousted from places of honour and

ffi 12 6 o ce by Johnstones and Crichtons . About 3 we find M ff 1 0 S ir Aymer de axwell Sheri of Dumfries, and in 4 9 M a axwell becomes Steward of Annandale , and their descendants Wardens of the West Marches . There is not a l ittle in the boast of the Johnstones

of Within the bounds Annandale , the gentle Johnstones ride , and They have been there a thousand years , a thousand years

’ they ll bide .

Sir The gallant William Douglas, who married Egidia , R 1 8 daughter of obert II , in 3 7, with her obtained territory in Nithsdale . Whenever

The doughty Douglas boun ’ himride ” to mk Into England a e a prey , we find the men of Dumfries and Galloway at his

92 DUMFRIES S HIRE M axwell fell after this fight , called the battle of Kirk

the connel and battle of Lochmaben . Th is last Earl was M sentenced to seclusion in Lindores Abbey . The axwells of Caerlaverock were advanced and became Wardens of

the Marches and Stewards of Annandale . During the wars with England in the sixteenth M century the shire was frequently devastated . any

umfie i D r s ans fell at Flodden . Lord Dacre thereafter R made Eskdale and Annandale into a waste . ecrimina tions with fi re and sword followed on both sides of the u 1 2 R . Border . ival families were at fe d as well In 5 9 James V marched into the county with 8 0 0 0 men to A curb the Border chiefs, and hanged Johnie rmstrong

Carlen ri 1 2 and h is freebooters at g. In 54 , i n revenge for

a foray of the English , repelled by the Johnstones and

others, James V led a force of men to the Borders .

Birrenswark From H ill , it is said , he saw his army march across the frontier to meet a d isgraceful defeat at Solway M 2 th 1 2 oss , on 4 N ovember , 54 . The King went home

lv k from Caer aeroc Castle to die of a broken heart .

D rumlanri Douglas of g, and the Carlyles of Brydekirk , S h alone of the southern cots, would not submit to Englis

r l i n domination and D umanr gwas appointed the Warde . 1 In 547 Wharton , th e English Warden , laid low the “ castle , steeple , and town of Annan as a very noisome

neighbourhood to England . R The eformation principles, preached in the south

in west by Knox , were welcomed by the maj ority the h M M s ire , but not by the axwells . Queen ary visited the shire several times and gathered a strong party for her HIS TORY OF THE COUNTY 93

R cause ; but the egent , in turn , came and coerced them i nto submission to the protestant government . Various political parties united to oppose the English forces under 1 0 S , 5 Scrope and ussex wmhen in 7 , they crossed the Borders and laid waste Ar an , Dumfries, and the country around with fire and sword . T he feud between the Maxwells and the Johnstones M had a pitiful ending when Lord axwell , Warden of the

M D r fe S arches, was defeated and killed at y ands on 6th 1 December , 593, by the Laird of Johnstone and his

f . ollowers , whom he had been authorised to apprehend

160 8 Sir In James Johnstone , now the Warden , met M axwell , the son of the slain Warden , at T i nwald in a conference for the purpose of ending the feud peaceably . ff h M It ended di erently . Jo nstone was shot by axwell , n who fled to the C ontinent . O his return he was captured and executed in Edinburgh in 1613 for h igh l M treason and for s aying the Warden of the arches .

James V I several times visited Dumfries , and on the

161 occasion of h is last visit , in August , 7, presented a shooting trophy to the Seven Incorporated Trades, called

un 1 0 1. T he Siller G . It was last competed for in 9 In the troubles consequent upon the autocratic conduct of Charles I , and the intrusion of Episcopacy , the Low lands were much concerned . The Covenant was generally

a v in 16 8 . C erlaerock subscribed 3 , held for the King, 1 n was taken by the Covenanters in 640 . O the accession of C harles I I the south - west counties were so cruelly treated by the mil itary that in 1666 the men of the

Glenkens rose in Dal ry , marched to Dumfries, seized 94 DUMFRIES S HIRE m Si r James Turner , the Com ander , and marched away with h im as a hostage to Edinburgh to appemal for justice . Dalell R The royal forces, under y , met the at ullion G reen , defeated them , and captured many for execution

. G and banishment Colonel John raham , of Claverhouse , was appointed depute sheriffof the county in 1679 and

C aerlav eroc k Ca s tl e

later a j usticiary judge , and hunted the Covenanters down . M any natives of the shire were shot , executed after trial , and exiled on account of adherence to the Covenants . At the Cross of Sanquhar the Cameronians publicly dis

168 0 168 . owned Charles II in , and James VII in 5 T he Union of the Parliaments was not acceptabl e to

96 DUMFRIES S HI RE which tell of the pagans who used wooden and bone implements, then rough and polished stone tools , and last of all metall ic weapons, instruments, and ornaments , fi are found in elds, mosses , and cairns . The constant turning over of the soil has made them less numerous M than in other districts . any sites of primitive villages ,

- earth forts, camps , crannogs , burial cists, and other remains still unexplored may prove fruitful to the antiquarian .

v Canoes, dug out of single trees, ha e been found in M Closeburn Castle Loch , Lochar oss, and Friars Carse Loch ; and in 191 1 two small canoes were found at “ ” Lochmaben . A group of houses, called weems , ex ’ cavated by primitive folk , is seen above The Deil s Dyke , on Town head farm in Closeburn ; and in them burnt

- hearth stones , calcined iron , and a whorl were found . Nearly every prominent eminence in t he county has traces of defensive works, some having concentric rings

6 . of ditches , as at Tynron Dun (94 feet) With in the 2 shi re there are remains of 49 such forts, more than one O f 1 half being in Annandale . these 4 are rectangular, 2 0 6 2 1 eigh t probably rectangular , and curvil inear ; and regular motes are preserved . Remains of a vitrified fort

ie n Pin z ar . O were found near , Tynron account of the scarcity of lakes, crannogs are few ; but those on two islands i n Loch U rr, although of a later type , show two defensive submerged gangways . In Lochmaben Castle S Loch submerged structures exist , and in Loch kene a small islet has the appearance of a crannog .

Cairns are very numerous . Those on the farm of

Auchencairn , Closeburn , of immense size , and associated ANTIQ UITIES 97

with the names of Wallace and Bruce , are of early con 10 0 r . st uction A congeries of cairns , ovefr in number , irharrow G . O remains at G , lencairn stone circles, the most perfect are the Twelve Apostles of Holywood and the Girdlestan es of Eskdalemuir . The last of another

C loc hmabenstan e G circle is the historic , in retna , already — —off — referred to . Two rocking stones the balance are

Belstan e D rumlan ri Glen whar en . seen at , g, and at g The Romans left permanent monuments of their occupation in the Roman Road and i n the Camps at

Birrenswark Birrens and i n Annandale , as well as at

O verbie and i n smaller outposts, of wh ich a Splendid W aalath . example is found on the p , Durisdeer The numerous inscribed stones found in Birrens threw a great l ight on the Roman occupation and recorded that

Tun rian G the Second g Cohort , the First erman Cohort , “ N ervan a called the , and part of the Sixth Legion , P were stationed here in the second century . ortions of — the Roman Road - the magnav ia wh ich en tered Scot land G Birrens Birrenswark at retna, made for and , and passed up Annandale into Lanarksh ire , are still visible . A secondary branch turned offwest at Gallaberry and Waalath wala’ traversed Nithsdale, emerging by the p ( or

- - wood path) into Crawford . A side road passed into the

Cairn Valley . Another branch went through Eskdale

— ild n n e m on to Trimontium the E o s. O of the ost in ’ explicable obj ects of antiqui ty is The Deil s Dyke , a deep ditch with the earth thrown up to form a breastwork fronting south and west . In places it is faced with Stone . I t was traced by Josep h Train from Lochry an through

H . D . 98 DUMFRIES S HIRE

P Galloway into Ayrshire . ortions of it are visible at

M , Cairn H ill , in Sanquhar , west of ennock , in Dal veen

A ltar ofMin erva found at B irren s

O n Bellbucht and on the hills east of Morton Castle . y H M Townhead ill , orton , and on farm , a fine stretch like

100 DUMFRIES S HIRE

objects in great variety , belonging to a primitive age , have “ ” M - been found . any querns , barley stones or knockers,

and pounders still lie near old habitations . The Bronze Age is also well illustrated by the many

weapons and ornaments found in this area . Socketed

spearheads, daggers, sword blades of all Sizes, socketed

- axe heads , and other articles in bronze , in excellent

condition are preserved i n museums . B ronze paterae of

R 1 0 a oman type were unearthed near Friars Carse in 79 . A magnificent bfrfonze pot fofund i n East Morton was per onall o s y carried to Abbots ord by Sir Walter Scott . A G neat bronze tripod ewer was found in lencai rn , another

in Keir, and another near Bonshaw Tower . A lovely

example of bronze metal and enamel work is a bridle - bit

irrenswark found near B . A rare specimen of a beaded

- 6 collar , or neck ring , in bronze , 4; inches in diameter , of

late Celtic type , beautiful in design and fin ish , was found M in Lochar oss, lying with in a gracefully shaped bronze

bowl . A fillet of thi n bronze , ornamented in delicate ' re ousse p work , and five bosses of bronze were found in the M sh ire . A golden collar was found in iddle N ithsdale . Evide nces of Celtic and later culture are preserved in

- th e few fragments of cross shafts still remaining . The pedestal of the baptismal font in Kirkconnel Church ,

- P Nithsdale , is part of a Celtic cross shaft . ortions of the G sculptured stone crosses of Closeburn , Durisdeer , lencairn , P G M u and en pont are preserved in the D r rierson use m , Hoddom T hornhill . A fragment of the cross of , display

. O n e ing a saint with a nimbus, is preserved of the most R important rel ics of antiquity is the uthwell Cross, dashed ANTIQ UITIES 10 1

i nto pieces in the seventeenth century, but now, Since 18 8 h R w 7, safely guarded within the paris church of uth ell M under the Ancient onuments Preservation Act . It is

one of the few sculptured high - crosses remaining in Scot land . It was erected for a devotional purpose . I t is a

T orqu e an d B owl fou n d at L och ar Mos s

1 . free standing cross, 7 feet high T he shaft measures

10 feet 6 inches high and 3 feet 1 inch across the arms . The shaft tapers from 2 1 inches to 13 inches in breadth and from 18 i nches to 9 inches in thickness . The stone R u thw ell Cros s

104 DUMFRIES S HIRE

in Sanquhar . The Cross of T horn hill , comparatively

m - mode , is admitted to be the handsomest market cross 1 1 in the country , and was erected about 7 4 by the Duke fl m of Queensberry . Its high , massive , uted colu n , erected upon a massive octagonal base, approached by a series of

B oatford Cross an d N ith B ridg e

steps , and all cut out of the local red sandstone , sur fl mounted by abronze ying Pegasus . In Kirkpatrick—Fleming parish are preserved two — crosses one at K i rkconnel , besides the ancient church , formed from one grey stone in the form of a Latin cross, and standing 7 feet 4 inches high ; and another at ANTIQ UITIES 105

d 1 1 Merklan . halfhi h The latter stands about feet and a g, the shaft being 9 feet h igh and surmounted by a pierced

eu - - cross formed by the union of four fl r cle lis. It is said to mark the spot where the Master of Maxwell fell after

1 8 . the defeat of Albany, i n the neigh bourhood , in 4 4

T hornhill Cross

“ The tombstones , once sculptured , of Fai r Helen and

Adam Fleming are to be seen i n Kirkconnel churchyard , beside the Kirtle . R oman coins of the age of N ero , Vespasian , and

Domitian were found at Broomholm in Langholm . 106 DUMFRIES S HIRE

R Birrens oman coins were got in the excavation of camp .

Hoards of coins , especially of the mints of the Edwards of England , have been found in Durisdeer , Closeburn , ’ and i n oth er parishes . Few of the Borderers blades which fought for C rown and Covenant escaped the search made for them under the disarming statutes of the later

Stewart kings .

— 1 . A a 9 rch itectu re () Ecclesiastical . Dumfriessh ire is unique i n this respect that there is not preserved with i n it a single example of a Celtic , S M B ritish , axon , Norman or ed ieval church , or eccle siastical fi edi ce . This is one unhappy result of warfare

Lin luden on the Borders . T he much admired abbeys of c and Sweetheart are just over the boundaries : no similar — — ecclesiastical edifices churches or religious houses of such beauty and distinction existed in the county, as far

- defin ed as is known . T here remain well sites and foun dations of p rimitive churches indicating their smallness . G The rey Friars monastery, Dumfries , was totally razed ’ and its stones utilised in local edifices and in St lVlichaels a church . Similarly the abbey of the Wh ite Fri rs at Holy

SacrumN emus D ercon al 1 1 1 wood ( , g) , built in 4 , as well as a later Hospital , has disappeared save a few fragments . A precious hellwith i ts Lati n inscription bearing that “ John Welsh , Abbot of Holywood , caused me to be 1 0 r made i n 5 5, stfill hangs i n a modern belf y of the . O parish church Lochmaben church , an ancient bell

ee s e Mo me t D s ee h h Q u n b rry nu n , uri d r C urc — ARCHITECTURE ECCLES IAS TICAL 109

“ arialdus name of G b . The present parish church of w Durisdeer has a d istinctive to er , church , school , and

- ducal waitingrooms , all formed out of the dark red ashlar

masonry of the obliterated castle of Durisdeer , famous in

the Wars of Independence . A similar fate befell the “ ” dun of Tynron , now transferred to Tynron parish

church . The church of Durisdeer was built in the end of the seventeenth century by the artificers who com

r m pleted D u lan rigCastle . In a mausoleum annexed to the church an elaborate marble monument is erected to m comme orate the Duke and Duchess of Queensberry ,

who died respectively in 17 1 1 and 170 9. It is reckoned

Roubiliac the a masterpiece of , and exquisite carving,

especially of lace , upon the white Carrara marble is much

admired .

T he churches, built in the eighteenth century , when

there was a revival of ecclesiastical activity , are of a most

uninteresting domestic type , with the exception of St ’ M the ichael s church , Dumfries . It stands upon site of

u 1 a very early church . The steeple was b ilt in 744 . A R graveyard , in wh ich obert Burns and many distinguished

mfrie n D u sias are buried , surrounds the church . In the nineteenth century many beauti ful churches have been

built both in the larger towns and v illages, the most beautiful of all being the Gothic Memorial Church 18 8 —18 8 m erected in 9 9 near Du fries , in memory of

Mrs Dr Crichton and of Crichton , founders of The

R - Crichton oyal Institution for the weak minded . A striking feature in the landscape of Moffat are the parish

church and manse , built of red Corncockle sandstone in 110 DUMFRIES S HIRE

G Early English oth ic style, and finished with great chaste 1 8 M ff ness i n 8 7 . Another handsome edifice in o at is the

United Free C hurch in French Gothic . Among other M P fine parish churches are orton , enpont , Closeburn ,

G . and reyfriars, Dumfries

fes c hto Memo h h m Cri n rial C urc , Du ri

— 2 0 A o C . . rch itectu re () astel lated T he demficiency of Dumfriessh ire in old ecclesiastical edifices is ade up for by the number of its historicf . O castles and towers, i n ruins or in habitable use n oble piles upreared to dominate the rural scene are

112 DUMFRIES S HIRE

n d fifteenth a sixteenth centuries . The castle also stood

12 16 sieges i n 13 and in 40 (see p . It was the seat M ff of the axwells , knights , lords, earls , sheri s , stewards, M and wardens of the arches, and is now the property of their descendant , the Duchess of Norfolk . The first castle of Lochmaben stood on the site now known as the Castlehill . The second , and existing strong

on hold , is built a peninsula covering sixteen acres running into the Castle loch , and defended by d itches and a deep ashlar lined moat . Access to it was got by boat rowed into a defended ditch . In some parts it dates frombefore

130 0 . This important place stood many sieges . Edward I f ' took it in 12 98 ; Bruce led to it in 130 6 ; De Boune held it in 1346 ; Douglas took it in 1384 ; and James VI n ffi stormed it in 15 8 8 . O th is last occasion the o ce of constable was transferred from Lord Maxwell to Johnstone

M 61 . 1 2 of Annandale It was granted to John urray in ,

M fi 1 0 — and is now held by the Earl of ans eld . In 5 3 4

the JamesfIV repaired the castle and built great hall . O simple vaulted towers, dating from the fourteenth century , there are two good examples, in Closeburn and

T orthorwald . Closeburn Castle , formerly the seat of the u Kirkpatricks, is a massive rectangular tower , fo nded on a mound in a lake now drained , and consisting of th ree

. 6 vaulted stories It measures 45 feet by 34 feet inches, and rises 50 feet to the parapet . The old curiously wrought iron “ yett ” (gate) still hangs opposite the old fi f entrance high in the wall on the rst loor . The castle is still inhabited .

Torthorwald Castle, the ancient seat of the Carlyles, — ARCHITECTURE CAS TELLATED 113

now in ruins, also stood on a mound in a marsh , defended u 6 with a ditch . It is also an oblong va lted hold , 5 feet 6 2 inches by 39 feet inches, and rising 45 feet to the apex of the h ighest vault . O fkeeps to wh ich domiciliary additions were added 1 0 0 1 2 in the period between 4 and 54 , mention may be

Mort on Cas tl e — M S h G . made of three orton , anqu ar , and omlongon M orton , three miles north of T hornhill , stands on the site of an older castle , on a steep eminence overlooking a natural loch . Its plan is remarkable . Between two lofty towers access was got to an irregular oblong build 2 ing, whose high ashlar walls extended 9 feet till they

- P ended in another tower at the south east angle . arallel

H . 8 D . 114 DUMFRIES S HIRE

to this build ing was another of similar character and size . 1 The great hall measure d 93 feet by 3 feet . Th is massive pile had an imposing appearance . The Celtic overlord

D un e al g and h is powerful descendants had a castle here . R From them i t passed through andolph , to the crown u l and to the D o gases of Ni thsdale . From Sir William

Cosho le M 161 Douglas of g and orton , in 9, it passed to the Dukes of Queensberry and from them to the Scotts of Buccleuch , who hold it still . Sanquhar keep still stands in the corner of a fort defending a courtyard into which entry is obtained from another defended yard . The domiciliary buildings attached to the keep occupy an eminence overlooking the Nith 16 12 the area of the site being 7 feet by 8 feet . T he keep is a vaulted edifice measuring 2 3 feet square inside u and with walls 10 feet thick . The D negalfamily had R an interest in the place , and after them osses and

Crichtons became the barons . In 12 96 William le “ ” Sen ewar Tailleur was the Warden of the new place of . In the fifteenth century a Crichton built the keep and h is descendants enlarged it into a fortified residence . T he Earl of Dumfries disposed of the barony of Sanquhar to

16 the Earl of Queensberry in 39; and h is descendant , the Duke of Buccleuch , sold the castle to the late

M 1 6 arquess of Bute in 8 9 . A very fine example ofa fifteenth century vaulted u C omlon on R ho se is the oblong keep of g , near uthwell . It measures 48 feet 10 inches by 42 feet 7 inches and rises

49 feet to the top of the battlements . The gabled rooms above the battlements and the turret afford a picturesque

116 DUMFRIES S HIRE

f w room on each loor , to wh ich a good heel stai r leads .

fin e 2 A hall , l it by four windows , measures 7 feet by 1 8 10 7 feet inches and by feet 3 i nches to the ceiling . O n t he lintel of this hoary tower is inscribed the motto “ ” t Soli Deo Honor E Gloria . It is one of the few local castles possessed and occupied by a descendant of the

’ B on s h aw T ow e r J ohni e A rmstron g s H ou se H oll ow s T ow er

original holder , and chief of a Border clan . It is the seat of Colonel Irving . R 1 62 epentance Tower is a beacon tower , built about 5 M by Lord Herries , Warden of the West arch , on the site

Trevertrold Trailtrow of the old chapel of or , on an eminence in a graveyard above H oddomCastle and — ARCHITECTURE CAS TELLATED 117 overlooking the Solway Strath The founder had “ a greit

fir bell and the y pan put on it . Above the doorway is “ ” Re en ten ce H oddom inscribed the word p . Castle , another keep built by Lord Herries and altered in the R seventeenth century , when it was sold to Si r ichard M urray , with i ts extensive domiciliary additions, is situated

r in a fine demesne and is the residence of M E . J . B rook .

H oddomCa stl e

All these fortified residences are put in the shade by

D rumlan ri the magnificent pile of g, in whose foundations “ ” are encased part of The House of the Hassock, of “ ’ ” “ ” e g H e , , t t , which th Whi s ol or vault wi hmhe iron yett remains as a nucleus for the vast superi posed domicile . 1 6 12 0 It consists of a rectangular building 4 feet by feet , 118 DUMFRIES S HIRE built round an open courtyard measuring 77 feet by 57 feet . The basement , which is the kitchen department , ’

- is vaulted . By a double ram s horn staircase access is gained to a platform , resting on an arcade , and to the doorway an d porch under a central tower with its great

2 2 0 . hall , 5 feet by feet Within there was formerly a 1 magnificent gallery 45 feet long, which is now curtailed .

S tapl eton T ow er s

At each corner of the courtyard a circular stair gives fl access to the various oors and roofs . The building was

16 begun in 75 by William , third Earl of Queensberry ,

16 and finished by him when Duke in 8 9. Among other fortalices in the county the following were

tenan tedz— A uchin cass of note, few being still Auchen , ,

Bar ar Blacket Bo rie Cornal Cowhill j g, , g , , , Dalswinton ,

120 DUMFRIES S HIRE

u The county b ildings, in Buccleuch Street, consist of a very imposing edifice , in the Scottish baronial style .

The town hall of Annan is a capacious building, of baronial style, surmounted by a clock tower, from which curfew is rung every night . It stands on the site of the old castle , a short distance from th e river , at the western

The Mid S tee e an d h S t ee mfes pl H ig r t , Du ri

end of High Street . Before it stands the statue of

Edward Irving . w Lockerbie has an imposing to n hall , with a lofty clock tower fin ished with a small spire rising above four turrets at the angles of the parapet . It was founded i n

18 8 7 to commemorate the Jubilee of Queen Victoria . ARCHITECTURE—MUNICIPAL 12 1

The assembly hall is very handsome . Contiguously placed is the Carnegie L i brary , with its supplementary suite of rooms for amusements .

l - The town ha l of Langholm , i n the market place , was the gift of the Duke of Buccleuch . B eside it stands a

A r man T own H all

' (S /z owz ngstatue of[rt/ing) handsome edifice built of the white sandstone of Whita

H ill , as a publ ic library to house the books purchased with a bequest left by Telford the engineer . The Thomas

0 m H pe Hospital , Langholm , is a large building, a pro inent feature of which is a central castellated tower, erected out 12 2 DUMFRIES S HIRE

Mr H e W esterkirk of a mbequest of ope , a nativ of , for the treat ent of the sick and the succour of the indigent . Lochmaben town hall at the one end of the main street and the church at the other are th e two features of the royal burgh . In a nich e above the door of the town

Rev . G hall is a statue to the William raham , looking

C astlemilk down on a white sandstone statue of K ing Robert the

Mr G Bruce , placed there mainly by the exertions of raham . m of The beautiful ansions the county , many set in charming surroundings, are a distinctive feature , and are the residences of many landlords who take a personal interest ff whill . C o in all local a airs Among the many are ,

12 4 DUMFRIES S HIRE road out of Caesarien sis Maxima into Valentia passed through Carlisle on to Longtown , i n Cumberland . Here one branch went by Netherby to LiddelMoat up Eskdale ’ to Castle O e r and Raeburn foot onward to Trimontium

ildon or The E s. Another branch crossed the Sark at

Bur hslacks G g near retna , passed into Ki rkpatrick Fleming,

Birrens H oddom G on by , through by Lockerbie to allow berry above Lochmaben . Here the road branched to the west towards N ithsdale , past Lochmaben , Tinwald ,

Duncow , Closeburn , Thornhill , Durisdeer village to m Crawford . Smaller branches traversed Kirk ichael ,

Glencairn and Tyn ron . Th e mai n road followed the ’ Annan by The Devil s Beef Tub to Crawford , where it R m j oined the Nithsdale branch again . e ains of this built road are traceable and have been laid bare in many places .

1 After the passing of the Turnpike Act in 77, by m 7 which rates were leviable , great i petus was given to

- - O ld road making and bridge building . thorough fares, wh ich under the Act of 168 6 were badly kept up by the tenantry , were widened , drained , and fenced in , so that in the beginning of the nineteenth century Dumfriesshi re was intersected by good mail and coach roads . Among those then interested in road - building and navigation were

- D iromMr M S rin kellP Maj or General , axwell of p g , atrick

Miller of Dalswinton and Telford , the engineer . A new G turnpike road from lasgow , leading down Evandale to

Beattock B ridge, was continued by Lochmaben and Annan to Carlisle . Another was made through th e vale of

Carron to Elvanfoot . Later still another was laid from

r n el lh ad ff S i k l K e e . Mo at into Nithsdale , and one from p g to COMMUNICATIONS 12 5 m m The mai n road ran fro Carlisle to Du fries, then G P through alloway to ortpatrick , so that there was every facility for the transference of goods, transport of passengers,

ld - and driving of cattle . O drove roads traversed hill and — dale in all directions , and these such as that still visible

E n terkin P in ass, by which the soldiers of Claverhouse took the Covenanters to Edinburgh—were suitable for

- foot passengers, pack horses , horses with Sledges, and

- M droves . Sir Charles Stuart enteith introduced stone causeways for steep gradients on h is Closeburn estate , and early in the nineteenth century plans were prepared for an iron railway between Dumfries and the coalfield i n

n m an d Carlisle Sanquhar , for a canal betwee Du fries , and P for other canals from owfoot to Lochmaben , Dalswinton

K irk ank C aerlav erock b . to , and from Annan to There are many passable fords on the rivers and 18 12 16 streams . But in there were good bridges in the

— five m county six over Ni th , over Ar an , and five over

Esk . All that can be said of the hoary bridge , wh ich , m without docu entary proof or ancient tradition , is associated with the name of D ervorgillaas its supposed foundress, is, that for centuries at least th is historic bridge has spanned the Nith at Dumfries , and is a memorial of the value of the ancient h ighway i nto Galloway . The

D rumlan ri lovely old bridge at g, ingeniously improved by

Charles Howitt , half a century ago , is a structure whose

in history is lost antiquity . Another substantial bridge

B afr o t o d crosses the Nith at , near Thornh ill , and , as the n “ i scription on its parapet bears , was built by William

M M l\/lason 1 60 orton , aster , So early as 5 a 126 DUMFRIES S HIRE M bridge existed in oniaive , and in the seventeenth century Fergusson of Craigdarroch built a bridge of one Dalwhat arch over the , and to this anothe r arch has been

added . Th rough Moniaive ran the route of the Craigen

gillan coach , which d id the j ourney between Dumfries G of and lasgow, by way Carsphairn , in thirteen hours and “ ” . O three quarters ther roaring dillies, as they were G called , plied between Carlisle and Edinburgh and lasgow

through N ithsdale and Annandale . 1 1 A new bridge at Dumfries , founded in 79 , was completed in 1794 ; another handsome bridge over the 18 2 6 Annan in that burgh was opened i n . Th e bridge

at Dumfries has, with in recent years, been wi dened and

beautified at the private expense of a lady citizen , and is

now an elegant and broad viaduct . B ut all these roads and bridges are insignificant compared with the massive

stone embankments, and the vast viaducts of stone and b iron required y the railways for crossing the Nith , m man ifi Ar an , Carron and Cample , and especially the g cent iron viaduct for the railroad across the Solway at

Annan .

Before the introduction of steam - traction the N ith S and the Annan , with th e olway estuary, formed a

natural waterway of first commercial importance . Large sums of money have been expended on making these

waters navigable . There are no canals and no tramways

in the county . By the introduction of the locomotive the system of “ ” transport was revolutionised , and droving was super seded. The Caledonian Railway from Glasgow and

128 DUMFRIES S HIRE

ffi 18 Edinburgh to Carlisle was opened for tra c in 47. Its route is through rocky Evandale and down Annandale, and i t serves all the vales converging on Moffat at Beat

G G . tock , Lockerbie , Ecclefechan , Annan , and retna reen

A short branch line connects Beattock to Moffat . At

Annan the line crosses the Solway into England . A keen parliamentary fight occurred over the question of route th rough Annandale or N ithsdale, one l ine at first being considered ample from a paying standpoint . Th is undertaking was soon followed by the Glasgow and

S - R 18 0 . outh Western ailway, which was completed i n 5 Its tract is through Ayrsh i re i nto Dumfriesshi re at Kirk connel , through Sanquhar and t he grand pass below it , — a through Carronbridge tunnel thousand yards long, and an early triumph of engineering— past the lovely woods

D rumlanri of g, down Nithsdale , past Dumfries and

Annan into Carlisle station , where the Caledonian and

N orth B ri tish Railways also meet . The next district tapped was Kirkcudbright , by a branch from Dumfries to 18 — Kirkcudbright , in 59 later extended to Stranraer and

Portpatrick . Another useful branch on the Caledonian system is that connecting Dumfries and Lockerbie and

Amisfield serving the districts round Locharbriggs , , Shield h ill , Lochmaben , and Lockerbie stations . The North B ritish system fromEdinburgh to Carlisle — ski rts the county on the south east frontier, where , at

Riddin s gjunction , a branch l ine runs north by Canonbie and Gilnockie (for Claygate) to Langholm . Further south from the main l ine at Longtown , a short branch leads to Gretna . COMMUNICATIONS 12 9

A light railway from Elvanfoot to Leadhills, built in

1 0 1 . 9 , has been extended to Wanlockhead Another light — — railway O pened in 190 5 part of the Glasgow and

- South Western system , runs up the vales of Cluden and M Cairn through D unscore to oniaive , and opens up these beautiful pastoral vales .

A 2 3 . d mi nistration and Di v isions A c M n ient and odern .

The distinction which some Border land - owners claim of still being heads of ancient families, on the tribal land in their possession , is a relic of the primitive epoch when ch iefs ruled tribes and were a law unto themselves , and a “ ” kind of Jeddart Justice prevailed . There were many baronies in this shire in the olden time , and , indeed , the present Queensberry Estate is composed of parts of 14 which have been purchased . In these chieftainries , or 160 baronies , during the troublous days before 3, justice was at times maintained with l ittle deference to the feudal law that a representative of the Crown should sit in courts awarding the penalty of death . A clan system survived into the fifteenth century , for we find David II appointing

Mac Gowin R a captain to the clan , and obert III con firming another officer in the office of Toshachdarrac h “ Coroner of some part of N ithsdale . The separate law of Galloway ” was another survival which held on to the ’ fourteenth century . Will iam the Lyon s Judges of Galloway sat in Dumfries

H . D . 130 DUMFRIES S HIRE

As already stated , Cumbria had princely government 1 l for 7 years, together with ocal government by Celtic — . F chieffsfeudal government by steward , vice comes or sheri , and bailie succeeded ; and the royal justiciar per

1 18 U dard H oddom ambulated on circuit . In 9 of acted — as steward of Annandale for the B ruce ; in 12 64 6 “ — Ey meric de Maccuswellacted as Vice comes de Dum freis ” and collected the fiscal revenues of Dumfries and

maormr G . o s alloway When the Celtic , or hereditary provincial rulers , disappeared can only be surmised . From the time of DavidIonward t he feudal system of admin is i ’ trat on . , generally speaking, prevailed In Edward I s occupation of southern Scotland his vice - comes had j urisdiction both in Dumfriessh i re , as far as Eskdale, and S in Kirkcudbright . Under the cottish kings , as Shown in ffi 1 Chapter , there were three o cers of the Crown having jurisdiction in the shi re of Dumfries , and this arrange ment continued till 1748 . Burghal law was dispensed in D umfries from the time of William the Lyon ; in Lochmaben and Annan from the time of King Robert t he Bruce ; and in S 1 8 w anquhar , the other royal burgh , from 59 , hen

James V I gave the barony its charter . Burghal law met all cases save those reserved in the four pleas of th e Crown . T he magistrates had jurisdiction over all ’ except the King s servants in h is castle , for whom a separate court was erected . T here was also a written code of laws applicable to

the 12 8— residents on Borders, drawn up in 4 9, and repeatedly revised by commissioners from both kingdoms .

132 DUMFRIES S HIRE

T he management of the poor and of certain cemeteries and churchyards is i n th e hands of 42 parish councils . T hese councils superseded the paroch ial boards wh ich were 18 instituted in 45 . The commissioners of supply , whose duties are somewhat curtailed since the creation of county

G mm S hoo Old ra ar c l , Annan

councils , meet to appoint their representatives on the standing joint committee , to which the police management is entrusted . A joint committee of the county council and of the burghs admin ister the acts relative to weights ,

e . xplosives, drugs ADMINIS TRATION AND DIVIS IONS 13 3 Among other administrative boards are the County R r r r t oad Boa d , the D ist ict Lunacy mBoa d , the D istric Fishery Board , Nith Navigation Com issioners, Dumfries

M r m and axwelltown Waterwork Commissioners , A an schoolboard Harbour Trust . There is a in every parish . Dumfries has a b urgh schoolboardand a landward school board . There are academies for higher education in

r m M ff Dumfries, A an , Langholm , Lockerbie , o at, and

W llaehall a c (Closeburn) .

Dumfriessh ire sends one member to parliament . Its four burghs combined with Kirkcudbright also send one . ff— The law is d ispensed by a sheri principal , who is

ff- S now an appellate j udge , by a heri substitute , and by

h rifil u ti ute ff s several honorary s e s b t s. The sheri holds

r m court in Dumfries and also in A an . The constabulary consists of 45 men and seven watchers employed for

fishery protection .

The burgh of Dumfries is divided i nto eight wards, w three councillors sitting for each of seven ards, and four for the eighth ward . There is a Burgh Licensing Court

r m and an Appeal Court . The Town Councils of A an 1 and Lockerbie consist each of a provost and 1 councillors . M ff Sanquhar , Lochmaben , and o at have each a provost and eight councillors . In early Ch ristian times D umfriessh ire formed a part

M Ken ti ern of the extensive see of St ungo ( g ), which extended far into England— to the Rere Cross of Stane more . I n medievffal days it remained in the see of Glasgow ; and its a airs were administered in the deaneries — N ithsdale , Annandale , and , later , of Eskdale Nithsdale 13 4 DUMFRIES S HIRE

2 1 with churches, n ine being beyond the sh ire , and

1 Annandale with 0 churches . Some of these churches m w were attached to houses in Les ahago , Holyrood , Fail , M Holywood , K ilwinning, Kelso , elrose , Jedburgh , and

o l L o k e e T wn H al , c rbi

Lin cluden . O thers were prebends and mensal churches of Glasgow . At the Reformation the churches were referred to as those of Nithsdale and Annandale . The Synod of

136 DUMFRIES S HIRE the D ouglases of D rumlan rigattained to great eminence m as soldiers and statesmen , and a ong these James, second Duke of Queensberry (1662 played a most im portant part in that critical period which ended i n the union of the parl iaments . Bonshaw Tower is owned by b an Irving, chief of a redoubta le Border clan , from whom m u u sprang any famo s men , incl ding Edward Irving and e Washington Irving . Hector Bo th ius, Scottish h istorian fi P ’ and rst rincipal of King s College , Aberdeen , was of

Annandale descent , being related to the family of Boys “ ” “ ” D r fe al R sd e Baro de y . are Ben Jonson was of the R stock of Annandale Johnstones . obert Jonston , author

H istoriarerumB ritannicarum of the , published in Amster

16 . dam i n 55, hailed from Annandale Ballad literature has invested with a kind of glamour “ Johnie Armstrong (15 2 9) sum ryme callit Laird of ” b f Gilnockie . O , and h is fearless free ooting tribe nobler “ ” stamp were the four knights of Eskdale , born at B urn

W r i Pu M foot in este k rk . They were Sir lteney alcolm

1 68 ( 7 admiral , who fought under Nelson , and at “ who I St Helena guarded Napoleon , said of him , Ah ” M P 1 6 M . . there is a man l ; Sir John alcolm , ( 7 9

1 di lomatist who t he Indian administrator and p , no less distinguished in the East by h is sword than known in the

The P oliticalH istor o lnelia West by his pen , gave us y f ,

The H istor o P ersia The Li e o R obert Lord Cliv e y f , and f f , ; — Si r Charles Malcolm (178 2 18 5 1) who saw much service in the East and West Indies ; and Sir George Malcolm

18 18 n ( who fought in Sci de, the Sikh War , Indian

M . utiny , and Abyssinia Born also in Eskdale were THE ROLL OF HONOUR 137 — Admiral T homas Pasley (1734 18 0 4) who assisted Howe fl 1 P to defeat the French eet in 794, and Sir Charles asley ,

i h S r o M o mG . C . B J n alc l , . W E . i R . ar ston 161 1 Archibald Johnston , Lord ( one of the Covenanters who opposed C harles Iand helped 138 DUMFRIES S HIRE

Alexander Henderson to frame the National Covenant , m was born in Edinburgh , but his father was Ja es Johnston

Beerholm of , Kirkpatrick Juxta . To another Lord G Advocate and Lord of Session , eorge Young, a native of Dumfries , Scotland is indebted for the Education Act 18 2 of 7 . O n e of the remarkable results of the cessation from the tumult of Border war was the devotion with wh ich the once bellicose inhabitants turned to peaceful avocations “ and to letters . They beat their swords into ploughshares , ” books ff and their spears i nto pruning , so e ectually that it is not easy to obtain a genuine blade wh ich has drawn blood . Innumerable scholars have emerged from t he country schools of the county . According to some John Duns Scotus took his oath and habit of St Francis i n

Dumfries ; and John de Sacro Bosco , a scientific writer ,

ofliterar hailed from Holywood . H igh on the long roll y “ men is The Admirable Crichton , James, the son of

R - obert Crichton of El iock and Cluny , Lord Advocate 1 60 of Scotland and Lord of Session . He was born in 5 e in Eliock Hous , Sanquhar . The attainments of th is prodigy—the most l earned graduate of St Andrews fi U niversity , master of many languages, equally pro cient — in every branch of learning, arms, and culture are almost incredible for a youth who was unhappily slai n at Mantua

- in his twenty second year . But they have been equalled D umfriesian by the marvellous attainments of another , 8 1 Dr Will iam Hastie (1 4 born in Wanlockhead ,

Professor of D ivinity in the U niversity of Glasgow .

G ifted with an extraordinary memory, he not only

140 DUMFRIES S HIRE

R all respects a greater thinker and author , was D r obert l 18 8 F int ( 3 of Annandale extraction , a native of

m Pro Du fries, minister in Aberdeen and Kilconquhar, fessor of Moral Philosophy and Political E ctonomy in P St Andrews, and rofessor of D ivinity in Edinburgh .

P hilo o o H istor . s h H is mind was encyclopaedic H is p y f y ,

Theismfind - theistic Theories A nosticism Socialism , , g , and are likely to remain standard works . O f W other ministers of religion , hose names are worthy

1 0 of honour , John Welch or Welsh ( 57 a reputed

- ih - naftfive of Coll ieston , Dunscore , son law of John Knox , su ered ex ile in France rather than subfmfit to the inter ference of James VI in Scottish Church a airs . A worthy successor of this defender of the faith was James Renwick 1662 M ( a native of oniaive , educated in Ed in G burgh and roningen , who was the last of the H illmen j ud icially executed for “ Christ ’s Crown and Covenants ”

16 8 R E n terkin in 8 . For being concerned in the escue at the following Covenanters from Dumfriesshi re were

168 — executed in 4 Thomas Harkness , Andrew Clark ,

Mc Ewen . O Samuel , and Thomas Wood ther local — martyrs , buried in the shi re , were William Smith i n G R m Ben n och Tyn ron , Joh n ibson , obert Edgar, and Ja es G G n Kirko in lencairn , William rierso and James in M an d Dumfries, Daniel acmichael in Durisdeer , Andrew

H islop in Eskdalemuir . The gravestones of the Cove “ ” nan ters O ld M were long kept in repair by ortality , R P 1 16—18 0 0 obert aterson ( 7 ) who, after learning h is — G trade , stone cutting , in Corncockle Quarry , leased ate

law Caerlaverock. brid e . gQuarry He died at Bankend , THE ROLL OF HONOUR 141 T he most gifted preacher born in the shire was

1 2 Edward Irving ( 79 a native of Annan , and educated there and in Edinburgh . He became assistant

. G to Dr C halmers . He befriended Carlyle enius , oratory , and a maj estic figure made h im the most arresting person ality of h is age . H is herculean labours d isturbed h is mental equilibrium and led to the expression of doctrines h incompatible wit his position in the National Church , from whose ministry he was deposed by h is co- presbyters 1 M in Ar man in 8 33 . Dr Andrew itchell Thomson

1 S M ( 779 born in anquhar anse , became minister G ’ of St eorge s , Edinburgh , where he shone as a preacher , as in the assembly he excelled as a debater and evangel ical

the n leader . Another doctor of same ame became minister P of B roughton United resbyterian Church , Edinburgh , 1 0 1 and died there in 9 . T wo other contemporary men of mark were D r Robert Gordon (178 6 G a native of lencairn , minister of the H igh Church ,

Edinburgh , and a writer of merit ; and David Welsh

1 E ricstan e P ( 793 born at , rofessor of Church

The N orth H istory in Edinburgh , one of the founders of

ev iew fi R B ritish R and its rst editor . obert Johnston M ff 18 0 fi ( 7 born in o at , found a mission eld in

M . G . P adras Dr Joh n aton , a native of Torthorwald , spent a l ife of unwearied devotion amid perils as a

1 missionary i n the New Hebrides till his death in 90 7 . O fphysicians not a few eminent men were born in the county . D r John Hutton became first physician to

King Will iam and Queen Anne , and left handsome

aerlaver k bequests to his native parish of C oc . Dr James E dward Irv in g

THE ROLL OF HONOUR 145

m —1 afterwards Lord Chancellor . George Graha (18 2 2 a R chief engineer of the Caledoni n ailway, is worthy of remembrance for his enduring work in connection with ’ T ur t u de o is s G i . that system . He wrote the to the system He drove the first passenger engine from Beattock to h lot 18 . Mac Carlisle on September , 47 Kirkpatrick

M 1 rfli 18 Ba tt illan ( 3 a native of , Kei r, i nvented “ - a dandy horse and the first gear driven bicycle . H is smithy is at Courth ill , and his burial place i n the old P 16 8 churchyard of Keir . William aterson ( 5 a

Ski mre native of p y , T inwald , was the founder of the

Bank of England , and promoter of the Darien Expedition .

R 18 10 Dr Henry Duncan , parish minister of uthwell , in founded the Savings Bank . He is also entitled to remem brance as the protector of the Ruthwell Cross and t he discoverer of reptilian footprints in Corncockle sandstone .

His statue adorns the Savings Bank in Dumfries . Many travellers have gone to arctic and tropical R 1 n M D . 8 regions . Sir Joh ichardson , . ( 7 7 a native of Dumfries , as surgeon and naturalist , accompanied

Franklin to the polar regions , and also went in search of hi Cla erton 1 8 8 s lost leader . Hugh pp ( 7 a native n G of An an , was sent to Nigeria by the B ritish overnment , M but succumbed in the tropics . ore daring and more successful were the explorations of Joseph Thomson

18 8 n P ( 5 a ative of enpont , who learned stone

Gatelawbrid e hewing in g Quarry , and science in

1 Edinburgh Un iversity . At 9 years of age he went as geologist and naturalist wi th the Geographical Society ’s

Expedition to Central Africa . The death of h is leader

H . D . 10 146 DUMFRIESS HIRE

left the youth in charge of the expedition , which he took h and brought back wit out mishap . He explored Masai

J ose p h Thoms on M Land , Congo Land , West Africa , and orocco, an d wrote delightful narratives of h is travels . The hardsh ips of travel cut h im offin early manhood . H is monument

148 DUMFRIES S HIRE

P R rincipal Joh n Hunter, Closeburn , Dr A . . Carson , R M G Holywood , Dr Alexander eid , orton , Dr eorge

Thoma s C arlyl e

Ferguson , Tynron , an d h is brother Alexander . David Irving (1778 librarian of the Faculty of Advocates THE ROLL OF HONOUR 149

Lines o the Scottish P oets H istor o and author of the f , and y f

S cottish P oetr . y , was born in Langholm James Hannay ,

R Mac D iarmid D r obert Carruthers , Thomas Aird , John , mMc Dowall t e and Willia all mmaintained h h igh traditions literar ournalism . of y j in Du fries Joseph Train , author and antiquary , gathered up the traditions of the south for transmission to Sir Walter Scott , who gave them immortal

Gu Mannerin Old M ortalit settings in such novels as y g, y , ’

The B ride o Lammermoor The dbbot. O n e f , and of Train s

The B uchanites Mrs works was , a biography of Elspeth

B uchan and her fanatical following, who settled at New

Cample, Closeburn , as a prelude to her intended apotheosis

T emlelan d at p . T his incident suggests the observation that few Border M women have been placed upon the roll of fame . instrels only remind us that the t raveller

May in Kirkconnel churchyard view ofo The grave l vely Helen ,

M G “ and that on axwelton Braes, in lencairn , bonnie ” “ ” 168 2 —1 6 m Annie Laurie ( 7 4) gave her pro ise true . Too numerous for mention even are all the native poets who have sung the praises of the h ills and dales of

18 8 the south , down to Alexander Anderson ( 4 “ Surfaceman , a native of K irkconnel . The same parish

m H slo 1 8 is the birth place of Ja es y p ( 79 teacher , ’ The Cameronian s and author of the beautiful poem ,

r am M D e . The use in Kirkconnel also touched William

Ben n och Laing, as in Durisdeer it found Francis , and in

Moniaive William Bennet . Thomas Blacklock (172 1 150 DUMFRIES S HIRE

- d the bl ind poet preacher , frien of Hume , B eattie ,

r m and Burns , was born in A an , educated at Edinburgh

Kirkcud U niversity , and became for a time minister of M bright . Will iam Jul ius ickle (1735 son of the P minister of Langholm , corrector of the Clarendon ress, ’ O Lusiaa xford , is best known as the chaste translator of the , ’ Cumnor H all author of , and reputed author of There s ” M 1 nae luck aboot the hoose . John ayne ( 759

v ersifier born in Dumfries , learned printing, and became a .

In h is youth he wrote an interesting poem , with local

T e Siller un h G . colour , entitled , He settled i n London , and became j oint - editor and proprietor of The Star news

. of paper A man genius in London , contemporary with M 1 8 ayne , was Allan Cunningham ( 7 4 a native of ’

- Blackwood Estate , Keir , who laid aside h is stone mason s tools for the pen of a l iterary man in the Capital . He e H enjoy d the friendsh ip of Scott , ogg, and fCarlyle , and . O the patronage of Chantrey , the sculptor his volumi

R emains o N ithsda/e and nous writings the best known are , f

Gallowa Son Liv es o the most eminent B ritish P ainters y g, f , ’ The Son s o cotlana S . h is edition of Burns , and gf H is own “ fl fine lyric , A wet sheet and a owing sea, i ndicates the musical genius of this able writer . Nor must another

Rev . contemporary lyrist be forgotten , the Henry Scott R 1 8 iddell ( 79 son of a shepherd in Sorbie , Lang

Scotland et holm , who wrote the charming song y . M The Corrie , the Ki rtle , and the ilk had each a — G — bard Johnstone , raham , and Thom whose har mon ious v erse gives evidence of taste and poetic in

Spi ration .

15 2 DUMFRIES S HIRE It is worthy of notice that many descendants of Borderers who gallantly bore the sword in defence of

—D ou lases thei r fatherland g , Johnstones , Carlyles , Irvings and Bells—have successfully wielded the author ’s pen i n praise of the charms of the shire . A noticeable feature of their minstrelsy is the glamour with which the streams have held these singers, as well as such poetic visitants as

Fergusson , Wordsworth , Hogg, and Walter C . Smith . e t — Every dale has had its d vo ee Crfawick its Laing, R P D r e G Wanlock its eid , Esk its ark , y its ard iner “ r m happy in declaring with Bell , the minstrel of A an

Water , sweet and fair ,

’ S in o m teeped b yhood s golden drea , and Magic lights shadows ,

S for m c ing aye , en hanted strea ,

Through enchanted meadows .

’ Miller s P oets ofD umfriesshire is an anthology for the shire . But all these men of letters pale their ineffectual fires S before that of the King of cottish Song, who has made M m Dumfries the ecca of all true poets, since the ti e when Wordsworth , with h is pen dipped in tears, told the

Ellisland educated world that , in Dunscore , enshrines the M ’ memory of the farmer , and St ichael s ch urchyard , — the . Dumfries , guards ashes of the poet B urns F 2 5 . THE CHIEF T O WNS AND VILLA GES O M R DU F IESSHI RE .

(The figures in brackets after each name give the population in

1 1 1 and en d of f to 9 , those at the each section are re erences h t e pages in the text . )

2 1 of A nn an 2 1 6 6 (4 9) is a royal burgh , within a parish ( )

the m m on . sa e na e , the river Annan Its original charter , de

and 1 1 2 o m and in 1 8 6 . str yed by fire , was confir ed renewed 5 3

mo an d f in Its te , castle , ortified steeple played a great part Border m f the m o o o to war . Carlyle was educated at gra ar scho l be re g ing U fl the niversity ofE dinburgh (see p . There are ourishing

n in to and — i dustries the wn vicinity agriculture , fisheries , grain m - m o —o and k illing , saw illing, wo d w rking , engineering , tile bric m o - — and , , q , aking distilling b at building , sandstone uarrying cattle m m sales . There is also a s all shipping trade . The ansion houses of Wam i an h in th r b e and Nort field e . Mount Annan , , are parish

6 1 2 1 1 8 2 1 8 2 8 8 (pp 4 , , . 5 , . 0 , 4 6. 4 7 , so. 7 3 , 7 6. 7 7 , 8 , , 3 , 4 ,

8 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 0 1 2 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 5 , 9 , 9 , 93 , , , , 5 , 6, 3 , 3 , 3 3 ,

Appl e garth and S ibbaldbie is a parish in Mid

n . Halland o Lo in An andale Jardine Dinw odie dge are the parish .

(p .

B ake d m in n n is a ha let with quaint , thatched houses , the

ofarlaero k C e v c . pp . parish ( 94 , 15 4 DUMFRIES S HIRE

B ry dekirk ( 5 1) is a quoad sacraparish with a village of 9 f the m m m om rm ol chael sa e na e three iles r A an . The d p is

the the In situated near Annan above village . the red sandstone fr h quarry o Co se ill1 0 men are empl oyed pr duci g over f 3 o n o . pp . 2 0 tons stone annually ( ,

an on i 1 in k C b e ( 8 3 8 ) is a parish Es dale . Coal is worked — — near R owanburn the Old Colliery and Blinkbonny and

n 10 men and m to s are banked by 5 boys . The li estone

J a rdin e H all

ofm Glen z ier quarry in the parish produces 2 0 0 0 tons li e . The sandstone quarry is now little worked . There are five villages — R owanburn Bowholm and E vertown and , , Claygate , Hollows ,

old in the . pp . 10 2 1 2 1 60 several towers exist district ( , , 3 , 4 , ,

1 0 1 2 8 69. 7 9. 7 , J

rr brid e 2 in Ca on g ( 0 0 ) is a village Morton parish , whose

n m mo e o on the Q eat ho es are stly occupi d by w rkers \ ueensberry

E . pp . 1 1 6 state ( 5 , ,

15 6 DUMFRIES S HIRE and f o an n on m the statue Burns is arresti g obj ect the sa e street . ’ In St the of Michael s churchyard , a befitting shrine holds ashes “ ” who fn P ofmf the great poet o te walked The lainstanes Du ries . m o m m ofm m Beside his aus leu , a id a thicket onu ents , lie three

- ommmo o and Kirko m grave slabs c e rating Welsh , Griers n , , artyred

In th Covenanters . e Council Chamber is exhibited the S iller G un o to of , a shooting tr phy presented the Incorporated Trades

D u n s c ore C hu rch

mf m i n o m m Du ries by Ja es VI 1 6 1 7 . The l cal useu at the in m observatory , across the river Maxwelltown , contains any

or f lo al . f o c c curious relics There are clubs gol , b wling , ho key ,

k - - foo l and cric et , carpet bowling , lawn tennis , rowing , tba l , curling .

astlb n f m a. a o 0 0 c (m C e k Vessels 3 tons dis harge at Kinghol y

o m o mf 2 pp . o f . overl oking Kingh l is the site Du ries Castle ( , 3 ,

1 2 I6 I8 6 8 60 6 1 6 66 6 4 . . . . 3 5 . 3 . 4 7 . 54 . 5 5 . 5 . . . 5 . . 7 . CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 15 7

6 8 8 8 8 0 1 IO 6 I 1 7 3 . 74 . 7 . 7 7 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 9. 9 . 9 . 93 . 94 . 95 . . O 7 . 0 9,

1 10 1 1 1 2 0 1 2 1 2 6 1 2 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 8 1 1 7 97 7 5 7 ) 97 3 7 3 , 3 3 7 35 7 3 7 4 0 7 4 5 7

D un sc r 1 2 f m o e ( 0 7) is a parish , with a village o the sa e

m in the and na e , the western valley watered by Cairn Cluden , o in whose inhabitants are wh lly engaged agriculture . At Craigen

o on and o Ellisland putt ck , its uplands , Carlyle lived wr te ; at

fm and L S ir o a o Burns was a ar er ; at gCastle R bert Griers n , the

. of n ad Crai en uttock persecutor , dwelt The Welshes Dunscore g p

in the ofLa n i old are buried parish churchyard , Grierson g the

. in an o o churchyard Friars Carse , the parish , was earl y p ssessi n of o of m ft of o he the M nks Melrose . It was the ho e Riddells

G len riddellin mof who the fmo the ti e Burns , there witnessed a us o fr 1 1 1 2 2 1 o . . 6 6 2 1 2 8 c ntest the whistle (PP , , 4 , 4 , 3 , 3 , ,

D urisde e r 8 in ( 4 9) is a large inland parish Nithsdale ,

nd - m m occupied mostly by agriculturists a sheep asters . A s all

- In kirk town stands beside the parish church . the churchyard

m the o n . Daniel Mac ichael , C ve anter , shot at Dalveen , is buried of and DrumlanrigCastle is in the parish . The sites Durisdeer

kin m om . P E nter P Enoch Castles re ain pr inent Dalveen ass , ass ,

fr 1 and fo o . pp . 6 Kirkbride Church are av urite spots visitors ( ,

E agle sfield (5 0 0 ) is a flourishing village in Middlebie

m m o in o . parish , where any hands are e pl yed tail ring Eagles mLo the field has a good library . Here Willia ckhart painter — (1 8 4 6 1 90 0 ) was born . (p .

E cc l efe chan (75 0 ) is a village in the parish ofH oddom of w M n the m and no o ce seat a gingha industry , the ecca m f o ofdevotees ofTho as Carlyle . Eccle echan stati n (Caledonian Railway) is convenient for travellers to the Roman Camps of w n Birren ark i . 2 1 2 Birrens and s pp . 0 8 the vicinity ( , 3 3 , , 15 8 DUMFRIES S HIRE

E n terkin foot is a hamlet half- way between Th ornhill and

S n i . of the foo anquhar , Durisdeer parish It lies at t the wild

E n terkin h fm P t e offmo of ass , fscene a a us rescue Covenanters ro the dragoons o Claverh ouse on 2 9th July 1 68 4 . The nearest

8: S . . . 1 o . pp 6 railway station is Carr nbridge (G W Railway) ( ,

’ B th f e s e E e e h n Carl yl ir plac , ccl c a

E skdalemuir (392 ) is the parish with the largest acreage in the m 1 m n and shire , na ely acres , a district 3 iles lo g

- defined m m Raeburn oo nine miles broad . A well Ro an ca p at ft

In 1 an o (O verbie) and many circular forts remain . 90 8 bserva m m o m and tory co pletely equipped with agnet graphs , seis ographs , m for m mo m other instru ents easuring at spheric pheno ena , was erected here because ofthe absolute sere nity ofthe station . (pp

160 DUMFRIES S HIRE

t ofS o o to he this kind is still legal acc rding law c tland , being of o o styled an irregular marriage . Registrati n granted by rder ff o fm the Court ofSessi on or ofthe sheri puts it int or al legal S o order for civil purposes ; an d the Marriage Notice ( c tland) Act only requires that one ofthe parties has his or her usual residence

fo the m . for 2 1 in S o or c tland , has resided there days be re arriage “ ’ Lo E In The (b een s Head Inn at Springfield rd rskine was

H oddomC hu rc h

old married by David La n g in this old irregular way . The “ ” o now t Gretna Hall h stelry , a priva e residence , The Maxwell ” ofm . Arms and the T llh use were sce es arriage These , o o n f o in an o irregular marriages could be c ntracted y h use , the sel “ ” m constituted priest being locally styled the blacks ith , because f in he welded the contracting parties : Battles were ought Gretna fm and m , parish . Here stands the a ous treaty stone land ark CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 161

Clochmabenstane and on the - b - S , opposite shore at Burgh y ands t mm to on is erec ed a e orial Edward I the spot where he died .

' 2 0 2 0 2 6 8 1 2 1 2 (PP ) 3 7 35 7 4 7 ; 5 ) 5 7 5 9 5 7 97 7 4 7 8 )

H oddom(1 2 5 8 ) is a beautiful parish in Lower Annandale

St and c where M ungo planted his see Fe han had his church . The old castle ofHoddomis incorporated in a S plendid mansion k of . . . . 2 c (pp 9 6 3 the residen e M r E J Broo 9, 3 9, 4 , 9, 4 ,

H ollows m m in m , a s all ha let Canonbie parish , takes its na e m fo f ofo m o now not ro the rtalice J hnie Ar str ng , repaired but

the E sk fo m o of inhabitable , which stands above , ur iles s uth L fi m. o G lno kie o . 1 c . pp anghol The site T wer is near by ( 3 ,

l r w f H wood aish ith m o m o y (8 65) is a p , a ha let (69) the sa e “ f o S m o the o m in . f na e , Nithsdale o e identi y it with the head w d “ Th in Caledon . Here stands the great circle ofstones called e ” o old Dercon al Twelve Ap stles . The abbey , g , has disappeared o o m together with a h spital built by Archibald D uglas , the Gri . Tw in f o ancient church bells hang the bel ry ofthe parish church .

Morrin ton . . 8 10 6 There is a quarry at g (PP 4 5 , 7 , 97 , ,

ohn ston e 1 in ofA J (7 5 ) is a parish the Howe nnandale , R ll of aehi s wherein is situated , the splendid residence M r Hope of Lo oo o . J hnstone , proprietor nearly all the parish chw d Tower , fm o w ofthe no in ruins , the ancient a ily seat Johnst nes , is built

m n L on a ridge overlooking a great orass o the west . The och

of n . pp . 1 2 wood Oaks are great a tiquity ( ,

Keir 8 m ofthe m m (5 3 ) is a parish , with a ha let sa e na e ,

the m beside parish church , wh se i habita ts are stly e gaged o n n o m n in t o m Bar ar . agriculture , except h se e ployed at j gli e quarry llan of o MacMi Here Kirkpatrick , inventor the bicycle , was b rn , aenoch and Bar ar and . C lived , was buried p House j gTower are

in . pp . 1 6 10 0 1 the parish ( , 3 3 , , 4 5 ,

H . D . 162 DUMFRIES S HIRE

Kirkconn el 2 1 in ( 44) is a parish , with increasing village , f oalfi l U and o c e d pper Nithsdale , includes part the extensive ,

m 8 0 men and and o which at present e ploys 5 boys , pr duces about

f . 1 1 2 6 o 0 6 tons coal annually 5 , 3 , 3 , 3 , 4 , 7 , 7 9,

I 1 1 0 0 . 4 7 . 49

Kirkmahoe (10 8 0 ) is a well cultivated parish to the north mf c S and of . Du ries Its villages are Kirkton , Dun ow , unnybrae ,

L an gholmP arish Church

m and Dalswinton ; its ansions , Duncow , Dalswinton , Newlands ,

Isle .

Kirkpatrick - F lemin g(13 54) is a parish in the s outh - east

of on district the county , with a station the Caledonian Railway . It lies within the red sandstone belt whi ch was extensively quarried at rai shaws Branteth Sa h C rk s ields and . s g , , , New Cove The la t

164 DUMFRIES S HIRE

mallh lm. and S o pp . 6 2 0 2 Greenhill , Heck , Hightae , ( 4 , 5 , , , 4 ,

2 6 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 4 6, 66, 8 3 , 9 , 9 , 0 6, , , , 4 , 8 , 3 0 ,

L ockerbie 2 m fl ( 4 5 5) is a s all ourishing burgh town , beauti f in ofD r fesdale in - ully situated , the parish y Mid Annan It m . u A rman D r fe and dale is al ost surro nded by the rivers , y ,

and ff for S Milk , o ers a pleasant resort anglers . ince the intro

of in 1 8 out of duction the railway 4 7 , it has been converted of a m a quiet rural village into a hive industry . Its sheep nd la b m sales are ofgreat importance . Its odern buildings are hand

m and — and and its so e well built ; its streets broad clean , water and . f pure It possesses a ree library higher grade school , besides f ofm Fox gol links and other attra ctions odern pleasure resorts .

n - In ad . fands D r es hounds otter hounds hunt here the vicinity is y , the scene ofa bloody confli ct between Maxwells and Johnstones

n atlmilk Elshieshi l n i 1 . C s e e ds i 5 93 , Jardine Hall , Tower are the eighb urh d t gether with the r ma tic rui s ofSpedlins n o oo , o o n n m . L its mfmthe Lo ards f c Tower ockerbie takes na e ro , a a ily — “ ” who Lo ar - anciently held land there hence c de bi. The highest

in the or ( ih te ro hill district , White Woollen L y Woollen , is p L m n ounced . or White Ween The ockerbie Tryst , great la b f fm an ofm m and c air , was or erly annual event u h i portance , was m or held on Lockerbie Hill . Over la bs were brought f m al m . pp . 2 . so 0 sale A local carnival was held at the sa e ti e ( ,

2 6 1 1 1 2 0 1 2 1 2 8 1 1 1 I " 60 1 66a68 7 697 7 7 7 3 7 7 7 5 ) 7 4 1 7 3 7 3 3 7 34 )

Midd ebie 1 2 2 in two l ( 7 ) is a rural parish Annandale , with

E alesfield and Two old Penersax villages , g Waterbeck . parishes , an n ow to In Birren s d . Carruthers , are united Middlebie it are ’ a m m an d S otsbri w m c f f . Ro an ca p , g, here Carlyle s ather ar ed

. pp . 2 0 66 8 6 The Carlyles anciently held lands here ( , , , 97 , M ff o at c m in U a poli e burgh , char ingly situated pper

f - a 0 0 Ann ndale , 5 eet above sea level , is approached by splendid

166 DUMFRIES S HIRE

and n o F or n . roads , has a statio the Caledonian Railway centuries off M at has been famous for its mineral waters . The well affords

and and m ro waters , sulphurous saline having other edicinal p

erties f o m m in m or m p , which are uch de and curing g ut , rheu atis , H art ellS a skin diseases and stomachic complaints . The fp is also a chalybeate well ofsimilar character and popular for dyspeptic

and m . in disorders A large agnificent Hydropathic , situated

‘ R enwi ck s Monumen t an d Max we lton B ra es

on mm to lovely grounds a co anding situation , adds distinction the neighbourhood . The town with its broad , clean streets is a m for f odel a health resort . A gol course , tennis courts , cricket and m grounds , bowling greens , pleasure grounds , char ing walks

ffer delightful re de z v us for t urists an d visit rs . The drives o m n o o o around are ost attractive . O ff m offf ff of the ain street Mo at stands Mo at House , a seat

- L to . . ofthe . Mr J J Hope Johnstone , ord Manor It is said be a

168 DUMF RIES S HIRE

n of n O e i lands here . the finest standing crosses Europe is

n th flar n fi l o e ce e d preserved i e parish church . The village C

1 IS in ariS h 2 1 ( 0 0 ) the p (FR 97 3 7 3 5 7 4 7 7 5 0 7 5 67 5 7 7 5 8 7 60 7

10 1 10 2 10 1 1 7 8 , 8 8 , , , 3 , 4 ,

melk of S t Mun o or Aber g, is a parish south L m of m ockerbie which keeps alive the na e the great issionary ,

of Mun hu Ken ti ern 1 who and patron saint Glasgow , g g (5 4

ow S h T n H all , anqu ar

fm ofCastlemilk om. fixed his see in Hodd The beauti ul a si , — n on th ofSir c in the . pp . 6 e seat Robert Bu hanan Jardine , is parish ( 3 ,

S an uhar in of q a royal burgh , is situated the valley

to an and Upper Nithsdale . Its history goes back early period ; “ ” so 1 2 6 find new or o early as 9 we a place , strongh ld , built at “ ” of S enewar c S , as it is then alled . anquhar was a burgh barony CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 169

till 1 5 98 when James VI erected it into a royal burgh . The “ ” om m o P in the present keep , s eti es called Cricht n eel , was built o m fm fifteenth century by a Cricht n . The arket cross or erly w stood on the street where an obelisk n ow commemorates t o fthe c m the o events whi h occurred there , na ely publishing

O n 2 2 nd 1 68 0 m S o . anquhar Declarati ns June , , Richard Ca eron o o to published the first declarati , which dis w ed allegia ce n m n n O n 2 th 1 68 Charles I I . 9 May , 5 , Ja es Renwick repudiated m James VII an d his government . There are s all villages at coalwork s Crawick ill and e ck Bridge . Agriculture , , M M nno m f m c o and bri kw rks , tileworks , hosiery anu acturing give e ploy m In mm S ent to the people . su er anquhar is popular as a health o and fw e resort , angling being easily btained , restrictions existing S to prevent visitors enj oying the hill scenery . anquhar has a

o f 1 2 1 2 2 1 0 . pp . 8 8 g l course ( 5 . 9. 3 . 3 . 7 . 7 7 . 7 . 79. 94 . 9 . 99. 7 .

Thornhill(1 1 69) is a lovely village in the parish ofMorton in on o M iddle Nithsdale , built a high ridge , with br ad m of fm o m th of . e streets , so e which or b ulevards li e trees At

o ofthe m m intersecti n streets stands a talfl i posing arket cross , under which fairs and markets were ormerly held . It was a

ofo an w d o no . burgh bar ny , had a tolbo th , a stable Thornhill is the n f m and ce tre ofa historic district . Three iles a hal north is

mlanri ofo . D ru the strong castle M rton gCastle , Closeburn Castle ,

Tibbers and o in th e . , En ch are also vale The parochial buildings of m and fof are a very handso e character , were gi ts the late

of . on of P S e Walter , Duke Buccleuch Morton ublic chool , the old oo m men parish sch ls , has produced any distinguished , notably

m mo m . Joseph Tho son , whose nu ent stands outside the building of Angling facilities in the district are great . Regular series drives to om and now o r antic places are attractive , Th rnhill is a health

In o the resort . the vicinity fThornhill are great sandstone

w n 1 2 ofa a rid e ad . pp . G tel b quarries g, Newton , Closeburn ( , 170 DUMFRIESS HIRE

1 6 1 1 1 ) 3 3 7 3 5 ) 4 ) 4 3 , 7 3 ) 7 6, 7 7 ) 0 0 ) 0 7 )

Tin wald an d Trailflat 2 an (7 8 ) is agricultural parish , five m o — ofmf in A misfield iles n rth east Du ries , which stands Tower , f m oft fm o mSir he the ancient seat Charteris a ily , who Tho as was

ofS pp . 1 in . 8 8 8 Chancellor cotland the thirteenth century ( , , 93 ,

I 1 4 5 . 4 7)

Mo ton S hoo an d S hoo ho se ho h r c l c l u , T rn ill

T rthorwald 8 8 and ofmf o (7 ) is a parish village , west Du ries , of and fm the whose ruined tower was or erly seat Kirkpatricks ,

pp 1 1 f of . . 8 0 a terward s Carlyles ( , 7 ,

Tun der arth ofL in g (3 99) is a parish east ockerbie , which “ ” of is a circle ofstones known as The Seven Brethren . Traces the paved Roman road are seen here . (p .

T nron m om y (3 0 9) is a s all but r antic hilly parish , watered

the Shin nel and m mm - by , do inated by the co anding triple ditched

172 DUMFRIES S HIRE

Wanlockhead (62 4) is a quoad sacraparish and village on

f o fo m in S I o h. t the confines the c unty , r erly anquhar paris is

- mo 2 o m fmo for m . 0 a us its lead ines , e pl ying 5 w rk en A light railway connects this village among the hills with Leadhills and

n 1 f o f i L . 8 Elvan oot , anarkshire The station stands 3 4 eet ab ve

- In o m sea level . the churchyard is interred Pr fessor Willia

a m o 2 1 2 . pp . 8 0 6 Hastie , re arkable sch lar ( , 9, 3 , 7 , 7 9, 9,

Westerkirk (3 93) is a pastoral parish to the north - west of

A n mo m o k Langholm. anti ny ine at Glendinning was w r ed up

- to ao. o about twenty years g Westerhall , a well w oded estate , an old of m fishin s 0 0 seat the Johnstones , with sal on gworth £3 a

in in 1 1 1 . pp . 2 1 8 0 year , was sold portions 9 ( , , DIAGRAMS l 3

fr h e om e th fm ess c F i 1 A e o g. . r a Du i ir par d wi that ofS c otla n d

F i . 2 Th g . e p opulati on ofDumfri ess hir e c ompared w i th that ofS c otland in 1911 174 DUMFRIES S HIRE

an ark L shi re 1633 D umfri es 67 S utherlan d 10

S cotlan d 157 F i m g. 3 . Co para tiv e d en s i ty ofP opula ti on to the s quar e mil e (1911)

(Each dot represents ten persons)

a F i . P o o t o e e e o g 4. r p r i nat r a und r C rn Crop s in Dumfri esshir e in 1910

UN IVER ITY O F CA IFO RN IA LO S AN GE E S L , L S TH E UN IV ERS ITY LIBRARY This book is D U E on the last date stamped b elow

F ormL - fi

— F ormL9 S eries 444

R ut hwell

’ The Carn b mlge LCu v e rs i gIi e s c TH E LIBRARY I UNIVERS ITY or CA LIFORN A