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23_584391 bindex.qxd 5/17/05 6:24 PM Page 487 Index Andina del Sud, 212, 358, Automóvil Club de Chile, 211 A bercrombie & Kent, 364, 366, 368, 372, 397 Auto Museum Moncopulli 31, 214, 485 Angastaco (Argentina), 116 (near Puyehue), 351 Above and Beyond Tours, 27 Anglican Church of St. Paul Avenida Bernardo O’Higgins Access Adventures, 25 (Valparaíso), 276 (la Alameda; Santiago), Accessible Journeys, 25 Antarctica, 480–486 245–246 Accommodations history of, 480–482 Avenida Corrientes (Buenos best, 13–15 planning a trip to, 482–483 Aires), 68 Chile, 212–213 Antarctic Circle, 484 Avenida Santa Fe (Buenos Achao (Chile), 390 Antares, 443 Aires), shopping on, 73 Aconcagua Provincial Park Anticuarios Mapocho Aventour, 450 (Argentina), 11, 151–152 (Santiago), 253–254 Ayelan (Argentina), 150 Addresses, finding, 31 Apumanque market Aymara Adventures & Aduana (Customs House; (Santiago), 254 Expeditions, 139 Valparaíso), 276 Aquamotion Expediciones, Azimut 360, 306, 310 Adventure Expeditions 354, 364, 365 Azimut Expediciones, 215–216 Patagonia, 415 Araucaria trees, 320, 321, Adventure Network 325, 337 International, 486 Argentina Rafting B ackroads Active Aerovías DAP, 486 Expediciones, 139, 140, 149 Vacations, 32, 214 Agua (Santiago), 257 Artequín Museum Baños de Puritama (Chile), Aguaventura, 326 (Santiago), 250 308–309 Airfares, getting the best, 28 Artesanías de Chile Baños Morales (Chile), 282 Airlines (Santiago), 254 Bar Berri (Santiago), 256 Antarctica, 485–486 Art galleries, Buenos Aires, 74 Bariloche (Argentina), Argentina, 1, 27–29 Arts and crafts 3, 154–171 Chile, 4–5, 208–210 Argentina accommodations, 162–167 Airpass Visit Argentina, 29 Cachi, 117 banks and currency Aldea de Tulor (Chile), 309 La Falda, 134 exchange, 158 Alerce Andino National Park, Mendoza, 140 boat excursions, 160–161 396–397 San Martín de los nightlife, 171 Alerce trees, 320, 396, 397 Andes, 177 outdoor activities, 161–162 All Patagonia Viajes y Turismo, Chile pharmacies, 158 475, 486 Ancud, 382 restaurants, 168–170 Alta Montaña, 467 Castro, 387 shopping, 158–159 Alta Montaña driving circuit Chillán, 296 sights and attractions, (Argentina), 148–152 Dalcahue, 389 158–159 Altitude sickness, 24 Pucón, 326 traveling to, 154, 156–157, Alto Las Condes (Santiago), Puerto Montt, 372 368 252 Puerto Varas, 357 visitor information, 157–158 Alto Palermo Shopping Punta Arenas, 433 Bar Liguria (Santiago), 256 CenterCOPYRIGHTED (Buenos Aires), 73 San Pedro, 306 MATERIALBarrio Bellavista (Santiago), Altué Expeditions (Chile), Santiago, 247, 248, 248–250 12, 215, 283, 391 253–254 Barrio Norte (Buenos Aires), American Express Ascensor Artillería accommodations, 43–44 Argentina, 22, 32, 41 (Valparaíso), 276 Barrio París-Londres Santiago (Chile), 223 Ascensor Espíritu Santo (Santiago), 245 Amerika (Buenos Aires), 79 (Valparaíso), 277 Basílica de la Merced Ancud (Chile), 380–385 Atacama Indians, 304–306 (Santiago), 244 Andean Archaeological Atacama Salt Flat (Chile), 307 Basílica del Santísimo Museum (Salta), 3, 110–111 Aurora Expeditions, 485 Sacramento (Santiago), 246 Andes Patagónicos, 415 Austral Adventures, Basílica y Convento de San Andes railway (Chile- 391–392, 399 Francisco (Buenos Aires), 70 Argentina), 150 Automóvil Club Argentino (ACA), 30 23_584391 bindex.qxd 5/17/05 6:24 PM Page 488 488 INDEX Beaches Boomerang (Santiago), 257 Cabildo/Museo Histórico del Argentina, 67, 80, 81 Bosque Arrayanes Norte (Salta), 109 Uruguay, 91, 92 (Argentina), 161, 171–172 Cachi, 116–117 Chile, 265–266 Botanical Garden Mapulemu Cafayate (Argentina), Bellavista (Santiago), 253 (Santiago), 250 116, 117–120 Biblioteca Nacional (Buenos Botanical Gardens (Buenos Café del Patio (Santiago), 256 Aires), 70 Aires), 64 Café Misterio (Montevideo), Biblioteca Nacional Brannigan’s (Santiago), 257 90 (Santiago), 246 British Arts Centre (Buenos Café Tortoni (Buenos Aires), Bigfoot Expeditions, 6, 443, Aires), 75 78 450, 457 British Clock Tower (Buenos Cahuelmó Hot Springs Biking and mountain biking Aires), 68 (Buenos Aires), 399 Argentina, 134, 140, 161, Bucket shops, 28 Cajón de Maipo (Chile), 172, 177, 192 Buenos Aires (Argentina), 11–12, 279–283 Chile. 309, 326 18, 35–79 Calama (Chile), 300 Bío Bío Expeditions, 405 accommodations, 2, 43–54 Calchaquíe Indians, 119 Bird-watching. See also American Express, 41 Calchaquíes valley, 116, 117 Penguins area code, 41 Calendar of events, Chile, 206 Antarctica, 484 bars, 79 Caleta Valdes (Argentina), 191 Argentina, 67, 91, 111, business hours, 41–42 Calle Defensa (Buenos 113, 459 car rentals, 40–41 Aires), 63 Chile, 338, 399, 408, 421, currency exchange, 42 Calle Dieciocho (Santiago), 443, 454, 455 emergencies, 42 246 Blondie (Santiago), 256 language, 42 Calle Florida (Buenos Boating. See also Kayaking layout of, 38–39 Aires), 68 Chile, 365, 391, 399 nightlife, 75–79 Calle Lavalle (Buenos Boat trips and cruises. performing arts, 75–77 Aires), 68 See also Ferries post offices, 42 Calle Peru (Buenos Aires), 68 Argentina restaurants, 2, 54–62 Caminito (Buenos Aires), Bariloche, 156, safety, 42 7, 62–63 160–161 shopping, 72–75 Camino Real (Santiago), Iguazú National Park, side trips from, 80–96 249–250 100–102 sights and attractions, Camping, Chile, 322, 339, Puerto Piramides, 196 2, 62–71 440, 454, 467, 476 San Martín de los spectator sports, 71–72 Canal Fun & Nature, 475 Andes, 177–178 street maps, 39 Cañi Reserve (Chile), 325, 335 Ushuaia, 472, 474 taxes, 42 Canopy, Chile, 326 Villa La Angostura, 172 taxis, 40 Carlos Anwandter Nature Chile, 211–212 telephone, 43 Sanctuary (Chile), 344 Coyhaique, 412 tipping, 43 Carnaval, Argentina, 23 cruise ships, 209 transportation, 39–40 Carnaval (Mardi Gras), fjords of southern traveling to, 38 Salta, 108 Chile, 9 visitor information, 41 Carpet factory (Puerto Lago Pehoé, 450 walking in, 41 Puyuhuapi), 408 Parque Nacional what’s new in, 1–2 Carrasco International Bernardo O’Higgins, Buenos Aires News (Buenos Airport (Montevideo), 84 441–443 Aires), 78 Car rentals Patagonia, 375–376 Business hours Argentina, 30, 40–41 Puerto Varas, 365 Argentina, 32–33 Chile, 210–211 Puerto Williams, 470 Chile, 216 Carretera Austral (Chile), Pumalín Park, 399 Bus travel 9, 202, 393–396 Torres del Paine, Argentina, 29–30 Car travel 450, 457 Chile, 210 Argentina, 30 Valdivia, 344 Butterfield and Robinson, Chile, 156, 210–211 between Chile and 31–32, 214 Casa Colorada Santiago Argentina, 8, 368 Museum, 244 Boca Juniors, Estadio de Casa de Brown (Colonia (Buenos Aires), 63 C abaña de Cabras, La del Sacramento), 96 Bodegas. See Wines Flor del Pago (Argentina), Casa Hoffman (Valdivia), 345 and wineries 116 Casa Horn (Puerto Varas), 364 Bodegas Etchart Cabildo (Buenos Aires), 66 Casa Kuschel (Puerto (near Cafayate), 118 Cabildo (Córdoba), 128, 131 Varas), 364 Bolsa de Comercio Cabildo (Montevideo), 87 Casa López (Buenos Aires), 74 (Santiago), 245 23_584391 bindex.qxd 5/17/05 6:24 PM Page 489 INDEX 489 Casa Mirador de Lukas Cerro Chapelco (Argentina), Conguillio National Park (Valparaíso), 276 178 (Chile), 321 Casa Museo Pablo Neruda Cerro de los Siete Colores Conrad Resort & Casino (Isla Negra), 278 (Argentina), 123 (Punta del Este), 95 Casa Rosada (Buenos Cerro Ñielol (Chile), 318 Consolidators, 28 Aires), 66 Cerro Otto (Argentina), 160 Córdoba (city, Argentina), Casa Yunge (Puerto Cerro Santa Lucía 124–131 Varas), 364 (Santiago), 247 Córdoba (province, Cascada Expediciones, Chaitén (Chile), 376, 399–402 Argentina), 3, 124–134 12, 215, 443 Chaltén (Argentina), Corral (Chile), 344, 346 Casinos 4, 466–469 Correo Central (Santiago), 243 Argentina, 133, 145, 171 Chandon Bar (Buenos Cousiño Jewels (Buenos Chile, 266, 335, 364 Aires), 79 Aires), 74 Uruguay, 90, 95 Changing of the guard Cousiño-Macul (near Caspana (Chile), 304 (Santiago), 245 Santiago), 286 Castillo de la Pura y Limpia Cherquenco (Chile), 321 Coyhaique (Chile), 411–421 Concepción de Monfort de Chicharron Disco Bar Credit cards, 23, 204–205 Lemus (Niebla), 346 (Buenos Aires), 78 Cruise ships and lines, 209. Castillo de San Pedro de Chile Discover, 216 See also Boat tours and Alcántara (Isla Mancera), Chile Nativo Expeditions, cruises 346 443, 456 Cuareim (Montevideo), 90–91 Castillo San Sebastián de la Chile Típico (Santiago), 254 Cucao (Chile), 390–391 Cruz (Corral), 346 Chillán (Chile), 296–297 Cueva de Milodon (Chile), 441 Castro (Chile), 385–389 Chiloé (Chile), 202, 377–392 Cuevas Volcánicas (Chile), 338 Catamaranes del Sur, 422 Chiloé National Park (Chile), Curacautín (Chile), 321 Cataratas do Iguaçu 390–391 Curaco de Vélez (Chile), (Brazil), 104 Chiu Chiu (Chile), 304 389–390 Catedral (Cathedral) Chuquicamata Copper Mine Currency and exchange Córdoba (Argentina), 127 (Chile), 303 Argentina, 22 Jujuy (Argentina), 121 The Circuit (Torres del Paine, Chile, 4, 204 Metropolitana (Santiago), Chile), 454–455 Uruguay, 83, 86 243 Circuito Chico (Argentina), Customs House (Aduana; Montevideo (Uruguay), 160 Valparaíso), 276 86–87 Circuito Inferior Customs regulations Salta (Argentina), 108–109 (Iguazú Falls), 100 Argentina, 21–22 Central Valley (Chile), 5–6, Circuito Superior Uruguay, 82 283–292 (Iguazú Falls), 100 Centro Artesanal (Cachi), 117 City Cemetery (Punta Centro Artesanal de Santa Arenas), 431 D alcahue (Chile), 389 Lucía (Santiago), 247 City Legislature Building De la Abundancia/Artesanos Centro Cultural El Austral (Buenos Aires), 66–67 (Montevideo), 88 (Valdivia), 345 Civic Center (Bariloche), 158 De los Padres Lake and Hills Centro Cultural Recoleta Climate (near Mar del Plata), 81 (Buenos Aires), 65, 77 Argentina, 23 Devil’s Throat Centro de Esquí Cerro Chile, 205 Foz do