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Choosing a Beer to Complement Any Dish From Pilsner to porter, beer’s vast range of flavor makes it an easy match for food Beer with dessert? It’s not a mistake. A slice BY MARTIN NACHEL of rich chocolate cake tastes great with the full-bodied, malty flavors of a sweet stout. Photos except where noted: Eleanor Thompson Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press eing a homebrewer and a certified making. Dark malt is produced by high dozens of beer styles. Each style has B beer judge has taught me a very drying temperatures; crystal malt by varying degrees of three characteristics: important secret: beer has as many com- roasting still-moist grains until caramel- maltiness, body, and hoppiness. plex and varied flavors as wine. And ized; and pale malt by gentle roasting. Maltiness comes from the grain, when it comes to choosing what to drink Hops. These are the flowers of a twin- which contains malt sugar that converts with a fine meal, a bottle of beer can be ing vine (Humulus lupulus), and they into alcohol during fermentation of the just as enjoyable as any wine. release a bitter oil when boiled. The beer. Any sugar that doesn’t make the Recently, I’ve noticed the secret is out. longer the hops are in the brew, the more conversion is left behind as a residual The brewpub industry is booming, and “hoppy” the beer becomes. Well-hopped sweetness and becomes what’s described many fine restaurants and bars are creating beers have a distinctive herbal taste. as “maltiness.” Some grains, however, are beer lists that rival those for their wines. Water. The quality of the water has a highly roasted or don’t contain much Unfortunately, there’s no popular wisdom great effect on the quality of the beer. sugar. In these beers, the maltiness on how to pair beer with food. Even novice Yeast. Just as in breadmaking, there doesn’t express itself as sweetness but as wine drinkers have a simple “red-meat- are many different varieties or strains of the intense flavor of the grain itself. gets-red-wine” rule to follow, but no guide- yeast, each with its own character. The There are many more malty-sweet beers lines are commonly known for beer type of yeast determines if the beer is than ones that are malty-dry. drinkers. Still, I can explain why beer is as considered an ale or lager. Body. How heavy or light the beer worthy a choice as wine for matching with These four ingredients add up to feels in the mouth is described as the meals. Once you know the basics, you can choose the right beer for the right food. It’s hoppy and full-bodied. What is it? “WHITE” BEERS ARE LAGERS, “RED” BEERS ARE ALES that deliciously illustrate like Coors and “dry” beers It helps to think of beer not as the con- each one. such as Sapporo and Bud tents of an aluminum can, but as any fer- Malty. Imported German Dry are among the lightest- mented beverage brewed with a cereal Oktoberfest beers and bocks bodied beers in the world. grain. This technical definition includes are among the most widely Full-bodied. When you sake, which we don’t commonly think of available malty-sweet beers. pour these beers, you can as a beer. Just as wines can be classified as There are relatively few malty- see the heavy viscosity that “red” or “white,” so can beer. dry beers, but Guinness Stout translates to a creamy feeling Lagers. The lager category is the white- would be a good example. in the mouth. Unfortunately, wine equivalent. It’s generally lighter in Hop flower Hoppy. The Sierra Nevada not many examples of these body and color, with a narrower flavor and Pyramid ales have a styles are widely distributed. profile and a wider audience. Lager in- Hoppy, malty, full-bodied… strong “grassy” or herbal Look for microbreweries cludes bock and Pilsner styles. what does it all mean? To flavor from the hops. Both the that produce barley wine, Ales. Darker, rounder, more robust and discover what these flavor herbal and bitter hop qualities Scotch ale, Russian imperial expressive, the ale category is the red- qualities mean to your mouth, can be found in Anchor’s stout, doppelbock, and old wine equivalent. It usually appeals to pop open a few beers in the Liberty Ale and Samuel Adams ale beer styles. Imports in- those with an experienced palate. Ale in- name of scientific experimen- Boston Lager. clude MacAndrew’s Scotch cludes stouts and wheat beers. tation. Here’s a list of the basic Light-bodied. These thin Ale (Scotland) and Samuel flavor elements, with a selec- beers pour very much like Smith’s Russian Imperial DOZENS OF BEER STYLES tion of readily available beers water. American light lagers Stout (England). FROM A FEW INGREDIENTS Whether ale, lager, or sake, beer has four ingredients: Grain. Beer is usually made from bar- ley, but it can also be made from wheat or, in the case of sake, from rice. When the grain is soaked, fermented, and dried, it Photos this page: Sloan Howard becomes a malt and is used in beer- Dark Malt Crystal Malt Pale Malt AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 1995 55 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press A guide to matching beer and food Beer expresses its flavors with as when the brand contains words The first 90 days are the best of a a large number of taste elements: like “lager” or “stout.” The label or beer’s life, but most remain quite malty-sweet, malty-dry, and hoppy, carton’s advertising copy is also help- drinkable for a year. A few beers which can be bitter, herbal, or both. ful. Look for descriptive adjectives like behave like wine and improve with These flavors can be found in beer “sweet,” “fruity,” or even “chocolate- age. These include Thomas Hardy’s of light, medium, or full body. roasted coffee finish.” Ale, Traquair House Ale, Belgian These variants are expressed in FRESH IS USUALLY BEST. Good Trappist triple ales, and Belgian dozens of beer styles, each with its beer is not often a matter of vintage. fruit lambics. own unique characteristics. The beer styles in the chart Type of beer Flavor Body Great partner below are listed from sweetest to driest, with a description of body ALES and suggested food pairings. Barley wine very malty full fine chocolates HOW TO TRACK DOWN Scotch ale very malty full glazed ham A GREAT BEER Sweet stout malty/mocha full chocolate, baked goods If you know of a liquor store that Old ale malty/hoppy full steak, organ meats takes pride in its wine selection, Bière de garde malty medium herbed and spiced cheeses you’ll probably find that it carries a wide variety of high-quality beers, Brown ale caramelly sweet medium poultry, rich meats too. But even a small-town package Bitter mildly sweet light poultry store can carry a surprisingly good Altbier malty/hoppy medium aged cheeses selection that ranges from barley- Wheat beer tangy/mildly malty light delicate seafood wine ale to a honey-fermented Cream ale mildly sweet light vegetable dishes porter. While some of these beers may be found near the aluminum Belgian witbier fruity/spicy light fruits, light pastries 12-packs, fine beers are sometimes Pale ale fruity/malty medium pork, lamb, assertive fish displayed unrefrigerated. Beers sold Fruit lambic fruity/acidic light desserts in oversized bottles may even be India Pale Ale toasty/malty/hoppy medium duck, rich meats found next to the wine. Porter chocolatey/coffee medium oysters, cheese sauces BEER IN YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD. Most food-worthy beers are im- Dry stout burnt malt/astringent medium oysters, rich chocolates ported, but the microbrewery boom is a boon to the trailblazing beer en- LAGERS thusiast. Microbreweries are small, Doppelbock chocolatey/malty full weisswurst locally operated, and produce Vienna malty full spicy food, sausages unique products, some of which Oktoberfest malty medium sausages, cured meats are made in beer styles virtually un- Bock malty medium wursts, spicy food known in America ten years ago. If there’s a microbrewery in your area, Munich lager malty/hoppy medium pasta, lamb, pork that may be the best place for you to Rauchbier smoky medium smoked ham, sausages start your search for great beer. Steam beer toasty malt/hoppy medium beef, mild cheeses READ THE LABEL. Most beer labels Black beer lightly burnt malt medium sharp cheese, coarse bread or cartons have all the information Pilsner subtle malt/hoppy light fish, chicken you need about the beer. Sometimes the key is in the product’s name, Light & dry beers very mild malt light rice, sushi and sashimi 56 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press beer’s body; it’s the result of how much malt sugar converted into alcohol. Full- bodied beers have more residual sugar; lighter beers have less. Hoppiness is the result of how long the hops were boiled in the brew. Hops give the beer a dimension of pleasant, gentle bitterness, as well as flavor and aromatics. BEER, BEER EVERYWHERE— WHICH ONE SHOULD I DRINK? When it comes to choosing the best beer for a meal, I’ve devised a chart (shown at left) that describes beers by their styles and flavors and suggests potential din- ing partners. Once you understand the difference between, say, brown ale (sweet, malty, almost caramelly) and cream ale (very light in color and flavor), you can begin to understand the wisdom behind specific beer-food matchings.

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