BY MARTINNACHEL makes itaneasymatchforfood From Pilsnertoporter, vast range offlavor ’s Dish Complement Any to aBeer Choosing oyih 95-20 TheTaunton Press Copyright © 1995 - 2007 flavors ofasweetstout. full-bodied, malty tastes greatwiththe of richchocolatecake not amistake.Aslice Beer withdessert? It’s

Photos except where noted: Eleanor Thompson eing a homebrewer and a certified making. Dark is produced by high dozens of beer styles. Each style has B beer judge has taught me a very drying temperatures; crystal malt by varying degrees of three characteristics: important secret: beer has as many com- roasting still-moist grains until caramel- maltiness, body, and hoppiness. plex and varied flavors as wine. And ized; and pale malt by gentle roasting. Maltiness comes from the grain, when it comes to choosing what to drink Hops. These are the flowers of a twin- which contains malt sugar that converts with a fine meal, a bottle of beer can be ing vine (Humulus lupulus), and they into alcohol during fermentation of the just as enjoyable as any wine. release a oil when boiled. The beer. Any sugar that doesn’t make the Recently, I’ve noticed the secret is out. longer the hops are in the brew, the more conversion is left behind as a residual The brewpub industry is booming, and “hoppy” the beer becomes. Well-hopped sweetness and becomes what’s described many fine restaurants and bars are creating have a distinctive herbal taste. as “maltiness.” Some grains, however, are beer lists that rival those for their wines. Water. The quality of the water has a highly roasted or don’t contain much Unfortunately, there’s no popular wisdom great effect on the quality of the beer. sugar. In these beers, the maltiness on how to pair beer with food. Even novice Yeast. Just as in breadmaking, there doesn’t express itself as sweetness but as wine drinkers have a simple “red-meat- are many different varieties or strains of the intense flavor of the grain itself. gets-red-wine” rule to follow, but no guide- yeast, each with its own character. The There are many more malty-sweet beers lines are commonly known for beer type of yeast determines if the beer is than ones that are malty-dry. drinkers. Still, I can explain why beer is as considered an or . Body. How heavy or light the beer worthy a choice as wine for matching with These four ingredients add up to feels in the mouth is described as the meals. Once you know the basics, you can choose the right beer for the right food. It’s hoppy and full-bodied. What is it? “WHITE” BEERS ARE , “RED” BEERS ARE that deliciously illustrate like Coors and “dry” beers It helps to think of beer not as the con- each one. such as Sapporo and Bud tents of an aluminum can, but as any fer- Malty. Imported German Dry are among the lightest- mented beverage brewed with a cereal Oktoberfest beers and bodied beers in the world. grain. This technical definition includes are among the most widely Full-bodied. When you sake, which we don’t commonly think of available malty-sweet beers. pour these beers, you can as a beer. Just as wines can be classified as There are relatively few malty- see the heavy viscosity that “red” or “white,” so can beer. dry beers, but Guinness translates to a creamy feeling Lagers. The lager category is the white- would be a good example. in the mouth. Unfortunately, wine equivalent. It’s generally lighter in Hop flower Hoppy. The Sierra Nevada not many examples of these body and color, with a narrower flavor and Pyramid ales have a styles are widely distributed. profile and a wider audience. Lager in- Hoppy, malty, full-bodied… strong “grassy” or herbal Look for microbreweries cludes and styles. what does it all mean? To flavor from the hops. Both the that produce wine, Ales. Darker, rounder, more robust and discover what these flavor herbal and bitter hop qualities Scotch ale, Russian imperial expressive, the ale category is the red- qualities mean to your mouth, can be found in Anchor’s stout, doppelbock, and old wine equivalent. It usually appeals to pop open a few beers in the Liberty Ale and ale beer styles. Imports in- those with an experienced palate. Ale in- name of scientific experimen- Boston Lager. clude MacAndrew’s Scotch cludes and wheat beers. tation. Here’s a list of the basic Light-bodied. These thin Ale (Scotland) and Samuel flavor elements, with a selec- beers pour very much like Smith’s Russian Imperial DOZENS OF BEER STYLES tion of readily available beers water. American light lagers Stout (England). FROM A FEW INGREDIENTS Whether ale, lager, or sake, beer has four ingredients: Grain. Beer is usually made from bar- ley, but it can also be made from wheat or, in the case of sake, from rice. When the grain is soaked, fermented, and dried, it

Photos this page: Sloan Howard becomes a malt and is used in beer- Dark Malt Crystal Malt Pale Malt

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 1995 55 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press A guide to matching beer and food

Beer expresses its flavors with as when the brand contains words The first 90 days are the best of a a large number of taste elements: like “lager” or “stout.” The label or beer’s life, but most remain quite malty-sweet, malty-dry, and hoppy, carton’s advertising copy is also help- drinkable for a year. A few beers which can be bitter, herbal, or both. ful. Look for descriptive adjectives like behave like wine and improve with These flavors can be found in beer “sweet,” “fruity,” or even “chocolate- age. These include Thomas Hardy’s of light, medium, or full body. roasted coffee finish.” Ale, Traquair House Ale, Belgian These variants are expressed in FRESH IS USUALLY BEST. Good Trappist triple ales, and Belgian dozens of beer styles, each with its beer is not often a matter of vintage. fruit . own unique characteristics. The beer styles in the chart Type of beer Flavor Body Great partner below are listed from sweetest to driest, with a description of body ALES and suggested food pairings. very malty full fine chocolates HOW TO TRACK DOWN Scotch ale very malty full glazed ham A GREAT BEER Sweet stout malty/mocha full chocolate, baked goods If you know of a liquor store that malty/hoppy full steak, organ meats takes pride in its wine selection, Bière de garde malty medium herbed and spiced cheeses you’ll probably find that it carries a wide variety of high-quality beers, caramelly sweet medium poultry, rich meats too. But even a small-town package Bitter mildly sweet light poultry store can carry a surprisingly good malty/hoppy medium aged cheeses selection that ranges from barley- tangy/mildly malty light delicate seafood wine ale to a honey-fermented mildly sweet light vegetable dishes . While some of these beers may be found near the aluminum Belgian witbier fruity/spicy light fruits, light pastries 12-packs, fine beers are sometimes fruity/malty medium pork, lamb, assertive fish displayed unrefrigerated. Beers sold Fruit fruity/acidic light desserts in oversized bottles may even be toasty/malty/hoppy medium duck, rich meats found next to the wine. Porter chocolatey/coffee medium oysters, cheese sauces BEER IN YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD. Most food-worthy beers are im- Dry stout burnt malt/astringent medium oysters, rich chocolates ported, but the microbrewery boom is a boon to the trailblazing beer en- LAGERS thusiast. Microbreweries are small, Doppelbock chocolatey/malty full weisswurst locally operated, and produce Vienna malty full spicy food, sausages unique products, some of which Oktoberfest malty medium sausages, cured meats are made in beer styles virtually un- Bock malty medium wursts, spicy food known in America ten years ago. If there’s a microbrewery in your area, Munich lager malty/hoppy medium pasta, lamb, pork that may be the best place for you to Rauchbier smoky medium smoked ham, sausages start your search for great beer. toasty malt/hoppy medium beef, mild cheeses READ THE LABEL. Most beer labels Black beer lightly burnt malt medium sharp cheese, coarse bread or cartons have all the information Pilsner subtle malt/hoppy light fish, chicken you need about the beer. Sometimes the key is in the product’s name, Light & dry beers very mild malt light rice, sushi and sashimi

56 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press beer’s body; it’s the result of how much malt sugar converted into alcohol. Full- bodied beers have more residual sugar; lighter beers have less. Hoppiness is the result of how long the hops were boiled in the brew. Hops give the beer a dimension of pleasant, gentle bitterness, as well as flavor and aromatics.

BEER, BEER EVERYWHERE— WHICH ONE SHOULD I DRINK? When it comes to choosing the best beer for a meal, I’ve devised a chart (shown at left) that describes beers by their styles and flavors and suggests potential din- ing partners. Once you understand the difference between, say, brown ale (sweet, malty, almost caramelly) and cream ale (very light in color and flavor), you can begin to understand the wisdom behind specific beer-food matchings. Any food that wine can match, beer can match as well or better. With the enormous range of flavors that can be found in beer, it’s easy to make a satisfy- ing beer partner for almost any dish. Spicy food. Serve a medium-bodied lager, such as a bock beer, a Märzenbier,

A crisp wheat beer is ideal for fresh seafood. Every beer has its glass. Simple, When you squeeze a straight-sided glasses are good for lemon wedge over the simple beers. Beers with more com- crab legs, save some plex flavors, however, deserve tulip- juice for the beer: it shaped glasses, which help release accents wheat beer’s the beer’s aromas. refreshing flavor.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 1995 57 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press or a Vienna-style beer. All are substan- bodied premium lagers that won’t over- some residual sweetness, like a Dort- tially malty and feel creamy. They’re power the food’s finesse. munder Export, also pair nicely. rather sweet and have good tongue- Asian. The Chinese and Japanese French. The home of haute cuisine is coating capabilities, which helps them drink vast quantities of beer. For the no place for timid beers. Bière de garde, to extinguish any culinary flames. Japanese, it’s a welcome alternative to a malty the French invented, Mediterranean. Cuisine defined by the potent sake that’s regularly served at is a natural for the country’s aged and olives and olive oil, garlic, herbs, citrus, mealtime. Japan’s principal beer style, herbed cheeses. Rich, earthy Belgian and tangy cheeses needs the malty lager, is very lightly hopped and closely Trappist beers complement most red sweetness of a Munich lager. Pasta is resembles America’s national brands. meats. For rich sauces, a mildly malty easily paired with a well-balanced Mu- These beers are excellent for pairing with but sharply refreshing is a per- nich . A slightly bitter, hoppy the delicate fresh (and often uncooked) fect match. pale ale contrasts well with sweet, rich seafood consumed throughout Japan. Continental cuisine. In the “beer lamb. Crisp Pilsner beer is famous for The Chinese have also adopted a belt” of the north—Germany, Austria, pairing with fresh fish, and the intense, Western style of beer, the Pilsner, as their Switzerland, Luxembourg, Liechten- dry flavors of a porter stand up well to own. Tsingtao (pronounced JING-DOW) is stein, , Slovakia, and the Czech oysters, shellfish, and salt-cured fish. one of the few brews from the People’s Republic—the national cuisines were Indian. While this cuisine is occa- Republic available in the United States. designed for beer. Strong, aged cheeses, sionally spicy, it should receive greater Tsingtao complements Chinese food, pork, chicken, coarse breads, and the notice for its complex blends of herbs whether Cantonese, Sichuan, or Man- best of the wursts don’t need any coax- and spices. Indian curries demand light- darin. Beers with mild hop bitterness and ing to find a liquid partner. Great pair- ings include the venerable Altbier with cheese, a malty-hoppy Maibock with The art of pouring beer barbecued white meats, Munich (dark) with pumpernickel and As an appreciative beer beer’s fragrance reach your beer. Well-made beers have rye, and a malty Oktoberfest or Mär- drinker, you’ll want to pour nose. A proper head is about small, champagne-like zenbier with most sausages. For a real beer properly in order to an inch, or “two fingers,” in bubbles and heads that can treat, try a Bamberger Rauchbier bring out its best character- depth above the liquid. be described as dense, rocky, (smoked beer) with smoked ham or istics. To do it well, you need The quality of the head and tightly knit. The beer’s smoked sausage. to pour vigorously; this builds tells you about the quality proteins hold the head Dessert. The idea of having beer a desirable head of foam and of the beer. If the bubbles are together and leave what’s with dessert may seem radical, but if releases the beer’s carbon- large, look “soapy,” and dis- called “Belgian lace” on you enjoy wine with dessert, the transi- dioxide gases, which lets the sipate quickly, it’s an inferior the sides of the glass. tion to beer should be easy. Rather than trying to match sweet with sweet, try contrasting tastes. A double chocolate cake would match a dry Irish-style stout or a robust porter. A Belgian witbier spices any fruit-laced sweet. Strawberry shortcake pairs well with a pale bock, and a box of chocolates will disappear quickly with a bottle of (rasp- berry lambic beer). Perhaps best of all, a pint of malty Scotch ale can be a dessert unto itself.

Martin Nachel is an award-winning home- brewer and a freelance writer on beer and brewing topics. Cofounder of the Brewers Start pouring straight down the middle of the Once the head begins forming, either slow the of South Suburbia, he makes and drinks glass. Be sure to let the beer flow strongly. pour or tilt the glass slightly to slow the buildup. beer in Orland Park, Illinois. •

58 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press