The Best of Sweden
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52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 3 1 The Best of Sweden Sweden presents visitors with an embarrassment of riches, everything from sophisticated cities to medieval towns to Europe’s last untamed wilderness. To help you decide how best to spend your time in Sweden, we’ve compiled a list of our favorite experiences and discoveries. In the following pages you’ll find the kind of candid advice we’d give our close friends. 1 The Best Travel Experiences • Shopping in the “Kingdom of and encounter dramatic coastal Crystal”: Many visitors come to scenery in every direction. In Sweden just to shop for glass. In America, only the coasts of Maine the “Kingdom of Crystal,” which and northern California compete stretches some 112km (70 miles) in general magnificence. See sec- between the port city of Kalmar tion 5, “Härnösand,” in chapter 11. and the town of Växjö in Småland • Viewing the Awe-Inspiring province, some of the world’s most Northern Lights: In the darkest prestigious glassmakers, including of winter in the north of Sweden Kosta Boda and Orrefors, show- (called Lapland or Norrbotten), case their wares. At least 16 major you can view the shimmering phe- glassworks welcome visitors to this nomenon of the northern lights area, and offer cut-rate discounts on many clear nights, usually in the form of “seconds”—goods from early evening until around containing flaws hardly notice- midnight. The sun and solar able except to the most carefully winds create this amazing light trained eye. Visitors can see glass show when electrons from the sun being blown and crystal being collide with atmospheric atoms etched by the land’s most skilled and molecules. See chapter 12. craftspeople. See section 2, • Touring the Land of the Mid- “Växjö,” in chapter 7. night Sun: Above the Arctic Cir- • Exploring the High Coast: The cle, where the summer sun never Höga Kusten is the most dips below the horizon, you have panoramic stretch of the Bothnian endless hours to enjoy the beauty Coast along the northern regions of the region and the activities of eastern Sweden. It stretches that go with it—from hiking to between the towns of Härnösand white-water rafting. After shop- and Örnsköldsvik, a land of ping for distinctive wooden and rolling mountains and forested silver handicrafts, you can dine on valleys that at times seem to filet of reindeer served with cloud- plunge into the Gulf of Bothnia berries. You can even pan for gold itself. Along the coast you can with real-life pioneers in Lan- cross Höga Kusten Bridge, the navaara, or climb rocks and gla- seventh longest in the world, ciers in Sarek’s National Park. See spanning the Ångermanalv River, chapter 12. 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 4 4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SWEDEN 2 The Best Active Vacations • Fishing: Sweden offers some of northern Värmland, 5km (3 miles) the world’s best fishing—its pris- south of Höljes, you can take easy tine lakes and streams are crystal white-water trips in paddle boats. clear, and many of them are See chapter 10. extremely well stocked. Many • Hiking: The Kungsleden (Royal varieties of fresh- and saltwater Trail) may provide the hike of a fish are available in Sweden’s lifetime, as it takes you through waters. See especially chapters 5, the mountains of Lapland, includ- 9, 11, and 12. ing Kebnekaise, which, at 2,090m • Golfing: Many Swedes are (6,855 ft.), is the highest moun- obsessed with golf. Most courses, tain in Sweden. This 500km (310- from the periphery of Stockholm mile) trail cuts through the to Björkliden (above the Arctic mountains of Abisko National Circle), are open to the public, Park to Riksgränsen on the Nor- and enthusiasts can play under the wegian frontier. See section 4, midnight sun. Halland, south of “Tärnaby & Hemavan,” in chap- Gothenburg, is called the Swedish ter 12. Riviera, and it’s the golf capital of • Skiing: In Lapland, you can enjoy the country. Båstad is the most both downhill and cross-country fashionable resort in Halland, and skiing year-round. In Kiruna, seri- you can play a game of golf here at ous skiers head for the Kebnekaise two prestigious courses: the Bås- mountain station, where skiing tad Golf Club at Boarp (& 0431/ can be combined with dog- 731-36) and the Bjåre Golf Club sledding and other winter sports. at Solomonhög (& 0431/36-10- South of the city of Gällivare, you 53), both located right outside the arrive at Dundret, or “Thunder center of Båstad. See section 8, Mountain,” for some of the finest “Easy Excursions to the Bohuslän skiing in the north. The hotel to Coast & Halland,” in chapter 5. stay at here also is called Dundret • White-Water Rafting: Sweden (& 0970/145-60), and its staff has some of Europe’s best white- possesses all the expertise needed water rafting. Trips run the gamut to link you up with both cross- from short and comfortable rides country skiing and skiing on the through peaceful landscapes to downhill slopes. Inaugurated in heart-stopping races on fast- 1955, its chairlift to the top of running rivers. In Dalarna, the the slopes was the first of its kind best white-water rafting is on the in Sweden. For Dundret, see sec- Västerdalälven River rapids, which tion 7, “Gällivare,” in chapter 12. are rated moderately difficult. In 3 The Best Ways to Spend Time on the Water • Exploring the “Garden of Sker- dotted with colorful yachts. You ries” Around Stockholm: Few can easily explore the archipelago cities enjoy a marinescape as dra- in summer, using the car ferries matic as Stockholm’s. The city is and bridges that connect it. The surrounded by some 24,000 highlight of the journey is taking islands and islets (some no more a boat trip from the center of than skerries or rocks jutting out Stockholm to the town of Sand- of the water), and the water is hamn, a ride that will introduce 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 5 THE MOST SCENIC TOWNS & VILLAGES 5 you to the scenic highlights of a • Sailing the Gustaf Wasa: The place many Stockholmers call best way to go between the lake- home in summer. See section 7, side resorts of Mora and Leksand “Side Trips from Stockholm,” in in Dalarna—the province most chapter 4. steeped in Swedish folklore—is by • Riding Along the Göta Canal: boat. This way you can see and This canal, known as Sweden’s experience this most traditional of “blue ribbon,” links Stockholm in Swedish provinces from a seascape, the east with Gothenburg in the as the scenery along the shoreline west, and is one of Scandinavia’s unfolds before you. Leksand itself major tourist attractions. As boats is the doorway to the province’s travel along the canal, some of the most scenic lake, Siljan. No less an most beautiful panoramas in Swe- authority than Hans Christian den unfold. The canal dates from Andersen pronounced this trip 1810 and covers 565km (350 idyllic. After a panoramic trip you miles) of beautiful scenery. Artifi- arrive in Mora, a provincial town cial canals, lakes, and rivers are in Upper Dalarna, where passen- linked by a series of 65 locks, gers disembark to see the Santa some of them rising 90m (300 ft.) complex (Santa’s house and fac- above sea level. Any travel agent tory). See section 5, “Leksand,” in can book you on this trip. See sec- chapter 10. tion 1, “The Göta Canal,” in • Viewing the Hudiksvall Archi- chapter 9. pelago: The islands around the • Angling on the Göta Älv: The small town of Hudiksvall on the southwestern sector of Lake Vän- Bothnian Coast are the most ern, which is part of the Göta beautiful in the north of Sweden. Canal (see above), has been called At one time there were 50 fishing an angler’s El Dorado, especially villages and harbors in this archi- in the valley of the River Göta. pelago, but today what formerly The Göta Älv’s well-stocked trout were fishers’ homes serve as sum- waters make for some of Scandi- mer cottages for vacationers, and navia’s finest spinning and fly- you can wander and explore at fishing. There are more than 30 your leisure in this naturalist’s par- different species of fish in Lake adise. It has such unique species of Vänern, especially perch, pike, flora and fauna that it was made a and different types of carp. Some nature reserve and is protected by 35,000 young salmon and trout the government. See section 3, are released annually to keep the “Hudiksvall,” in chapter 11. waters well stocked. See section 5, “Skara,” in chapter 9. 4 The Most Scenic Towns & Villages • Sigtuna: Sweden’s oldest town, seen throughout the town. See founded at the beginning of the section 7, “Side Trips from Stock- 11th century, stands on the shores holm,” in chapter 4. of Lake Mälaren, northwest of • Uppsala: Located northwest of Stockholm. High Street, with its Stockholm, Uppsala is Sweden’s low-timbered buildings, is believed major university city and boasts a to be the oldest street in Sweden. celebrated 15th-century cathedral. Traces of Sigtuna’s Viking and Nearby Gamla Uppsala (see early Christian heritage can be below) also is intriguing, built on 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SWEDEN the site of Viking burial grounds churches and memories of a more where both humans and animals prosperous period are intriguing were sacrificed.