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1 The Best of Sweden

Sweden presents visitors with an embarrassment of riches, everything from sophisticated cities to medieval towns to Europe’s last untamed wilderness. To help you decide how best to spend your time in Sweden, we’ve compiled a list of our favorite experiences and discoveries. In the following pages you’ll find the kind of candid advice we’d give our close friends.

1 The Best Travel Experiences • Shopping in the “Kingdom of and encounter dramatic coastal Crystal”: Many visitors come to scenery in every direction. In Sweden just to shop for glass. In America, only the coasts of Maine the “Kingdom of Crystal,” which and northern California compete stretches some 112km (70 miles) in general magnificence. See sec- between the port city of Kalmar tion 5, “Härnösand,” in chapter 11. and the town of Växjö in Småland • Viewing the Awe-Inspiring province, some of the world’s most Northern Lights: In the darkest prestigious glassmakers, including of winter in the north of Sweden Kosta Boda and Orrefors, show- (called Lapland or Norrbotten), case their wares. At least 16 major you can view the shimmering phe- glassworks welcome visitors to this nomenon of the northern lights area, and offer cut-rate discounts on many clear nights, usually in the form of “seconds”—goods from early evening until around containing flaws hardly notice- midnight. The sun and solar able except to the most carefully winds create this amazing light trained eye. Visitors can see glass show when electrons from the sun being blown and crystal being collide with atmospheric atoms etched by the land’s most skilled and molecules. See chapter 12. craftspeople. See section 2, • Touring the Land of the Mid- “Växjö,” in chapter 7. night Sun: Above the Arctic Cir- • Exploring the High Coast: The cle, where the summer sun never Höga Kusten is the most dips below the horizon, you have panoramic stretch of the Bothnian endless hours to enjoy the beauty Coast along the northern regions of the region and the activities of eastern Sweden. It stretches that go with it—from hiking to between the towns of Härnösand white-water rafting. After shop- and Örnsköldsvik, a land of ping for distinctive wooden and rolling mountains and forested silver handicrafts, you can dine on valleys that at times seem to filet of reindeer served with cloud- plunge into the Gulf of Bothnia berries. You can even pan for gold itself. Along the coast you can with real-life pioneers in Lan- cross Höga Kusten Bridge, the navaara, or climb rocks and gla- seventh longest in the world, ciers in Sarek’s National Park. See spanning the Ångermanalv River, chapter 12. 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 4

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2 The Best Active Vacations • Fishing: Sweden offers some of northern Värmland, 5km (3 miles) the world’s best fishing—its pris- south of Höljes, you can take easy tine lakes and streams are crystal white-water trips in paddle boats. clear, and many of them are See chapter 10. extremely well stocked. Many • Hiking: The Kungsleden (Royal varieties of fresh- and saltwater Trail) may provide the hike of a fish are available in Sweden’s lifetime, as it takes you through waters. See especially chapters 5, the mountains of Lapland, includ- 9, 11, and 12. ing Kebnekaise, which, at 2,090m • Golfing: Many Swedes are (6,855 ft.), is the highest moun- obsessed with golf. Most courses, tain in Sweden. This 500km (310- from the periphery of Stockholm mile) trail cuts through the to Björkliden (above the Arctic mountains of Abisko National Circle), are open to the public, Park to Riksgränsen on the Nor- and enthusiasts can play under the wegian frontier. See section 4, midnight sun. Halland, south of “Tärnaby & Hemavan,” in chap- Gothenburg, is called the Swedish ter 12. Riviera, and it’s the golf capital of • Skiing: In Lapland, you can enjoy the country. Båstad is the most both downhill and cross-country fashionable resort in Halland, and skiing year-round. In Kiruna, seri- you can play a game of golf here at ous skiers head for the Kebnekaise two prestigious courses: the Bås- mountain station, where skiing tad Golf Club at Boarp (& 0431/ can be combined with dog- 731-36) and the Bjåre Golf Club sledding and other winter sports. at Solomonhög (& 0431/36-10- South of the city of Gällivare, you 53), both located right outside the arrive at Dundret, or “Thunder center of Båstad. See section 8, Mountain,” for some of the finest “Easy Excursions to the Bohuslän skiing in the north. The hotel to Coast & Halland,” in chapter 5. stay at here also is called Dundret • White-Water Rafting: Sweden (& 0970/145-60), and its staff has some of Europe’s best white- possesses all the expertise needed water rafting. Trips run the gamut to link you up with both cross- from short and comfortable rides country skiing and skiing on the through peaceful landscapes to downhill slopes. Inaugurated in heart-stopping races on fast- 1955, its chairlift to the top of running rivers. In Dalarna, the the slopes was the first of its kind best white-water rafting is on the in Sweden. For Dundret, see sec- Västerdalälven River rapids, which tion 7, “Gällivare,” in chapter 12. are rated moderately difficult. In

3 The Best Ways to Spend Time on the Water • Exploring the “Garden of Sker- dotted with colorful yachts. You ries” Around Stockholm: Few can easily explore the archipelago cities enjoy a marinescape as dra- in summer, using the car ferries matic as Stockholm’s. The city is and bridges that connect it. The surrounded by some 24,000 highlight of the journey is taking islands and islets (some no more a boat trip from the center of than skerries or rocks jutting out Stockholm to the town of Sand- of the water), and the water is hamn, a ride that will introduce 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 5

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you to the scenic highlights of a • Sailing the Gustaf Wasa: The place many Stockholmers call best way to go between the lake- home in summer. See section 7, side resorts of Mora and Leksand “Side Trips from Stockholm,” in in Dalarna—the province most chapter 4. steeped in Swedish folklore—is by • Riding Along the Göta Canal: boat. This way you can see and This canal, known as Sweden’s experience this most traditional of “blue ribbon,” links Stockholm in Swedish provinces from a seascape, the east with Gothenburg in the as the scenery along the shoreline west, and is one of Scandinavia’s unfolds before you. Leksand itself major tourist attractions. As boats is the doorway to the province’s travel along the canal, some of the most scenic lake, Siljan. No less an most beautiful panoramas in Swe- authority than Hans Christian den unfold. The canal dates from Andersen pronounced this trip 1810 and covers 565km (350 idyllic. After a panoramic trip you miles) of beautiful scenery. Artifi- arrive in Mora, a provincial town cial canals, lakes, and rivers are in Upper Dalarna, where passen- linked by a series of 65 locks, gers disembark to see the Santa some of them rising 90m (300 ft.) complex (Santa’s house and fac- above sea level. Any travel agent tory). See section 5, “Leksand,” in can book you on this trip. See sec- chapter 10. tion 1, “The Göta Canal,” in • Viewing the Hudiksvall Archi- chapter 9. pelago: The islands around the • Angling on the Göta Älv: The small town of Hudiksvall on the southwestern sector of Lake Vän- Bothnian Coast are the most ern, which is part of the Göta beautiful in the north of Sweden. Canal (see above), has been called At one time there were 50 fishing an angler’s El Dorado, especially villages and harbors in this archi- in the valley of the River Göta. pelago, but today what formerly The Göta Älv’s well-stocked trout were fishers’ homes serve as sum- waters make for some of Scandi- mer cottages for vacationers, and navia’s finest spinning and fly- you can wander and explore at fishing. There are more than 30 your leisure in this naturalist’s par- different species of fish in Lake adise. It has such unique species of Vänern, especially perch, pike, flora and fauna that it was made a and different types of carp. Some nature reserve and is protected by 35,000 young salmon and trout the government. See section 3, are released annually to keep the “Hudiksvall,” in chapter 11. waters well stocked. See section 5, “Skara,” in chapter 9.

4 The Most Scenic Towns & Villages • Sigtuna: Sweden’s oldest town, seen throughout the town. See founded at the beginning of the section 7, “Side Trips from Stock- 11th century, stands on the shores holm,” in chapter 4. of Lake Mälaren, northwest of • Uppsala: Located northwest of Stockholm. High Street, with its Stockholm, Uppsala is Sweden’s low-timbered buildings, is believed major university city and boasts a to be the oldest street in Sweden. celebrated 15th-century cathedral. Traces of Sigtuna’s Viking and Nearby Gamla Uppsala (see early Christian heritage can be below) also is intriguing, built on 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 6

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the site of Viking burial grounds churches and memories of a more where both humans and animals prosperous period are intriguing were sacrificed. See section 7, in any season. See section 2, “Got- “Side Trips from Stockholm,” in land & Visby,” in chapter 8. chapter 4. • Rättvik: This is a great resort bor- • Lund: This town, situated 18km dering Lake Siljan in the heart (11 miles) northeast of Malmö, of Dalarna, a province known for rivals Uppsala as a university its regional painting, handicrafts, town. It, too, is ancient, having and folk dancing. Timbered been founded by Canute the houses reflect Dalarna’s old-style Great in 1020. The town is filled architecture, and on summer nights with centuries-old buildings, fiddle music evokes the long-ago winding passages, and cobble- past. See section 7, “Rättvik,” in stone streets; a major attraction is chapter 10. its ancient cathedral, one of the • Jokkmokk: Located just north finest expressions of Romanesque of the Arctic Circle, this is the architecture in northern Europe. best center for absorbing Lapp See section 3, “Lund,” in chapter 6. (or Sami) culture. The Lapps • Visby: On the island of Gotland, hold their famous “Great Winter this once was a great medieval Market” here in early February, a European city and former Viking tradition that is centuries old. You stronghold. For 8 days in August, can visit a museum devoted to this sleepy Hanseatic town awak- Sami culture in the center of town ens for the annual Medieval Week, and then go salmon fishing in the which features fire-eaters, belly town’s central lake. See section 5, dancers, and tournaments. Visby’s “Jokkmokk,” in chapter 12. ruins of 13th- and 14th-century

5 The Best Places to Go Back in Time • Gamla Uppsala (Uppsala): of numbers of dwellings and Gamla Uppsala, 5km (3 miles) authenticity. Some 150 structures north of the center of the univer- were moved from places ranging sity city, is one of the most revered from the château country in historic spots in Sweden. Some southwest Sweden to as far north 1,500 years ago, the Kingdom of as Lapland. From manor houses to the Svea (Swedes) was ruled from windmills, they’re all here, giving a spot outside the modern univer- visitors an idea of how Sweden sity city of Uppsala, north of used to look. This is an especially Stockholm. Here Viking life dom- valuable stop for visitors who see inated, and both animals and only Stockholm and don’t have humans were sacrificed to pagan time to visit the rest of the country. gods. It is suspected, although not Folk dancing and concerts enliven authenticated, that three Swedish the atmosphere, and young kings dating from the 6th century Swedes demonstrate the creation were entombed here. See section of handicrafts from the 17th and 7, “Side Trips from Stockholm,” 18th centuries. See p. 92. in chapter 4. • Kivik Tomb (Bredaror): In the • Skansen (Djurgården, Stock- château country of Sweden, the holm): Called “Old Sweden in a Kivik Tomb was discovered in Nutshell,” this is the best open-air 1748 north of the coastal town museum in all of Sweden in terms of Simrishamn. It immediately 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 7

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became the most important Bronze is believed to be an authentic Age discovery in the country. One replica of what the ring fort and of the former members of the dis- village once looked like, giving an covery team compared it to being amazing insight into life in the “invited into the living room of a Sweden of ages ago, when prehis- Bronze Age family.” Not only toric people fought to survive in were the usual bronze fragments an inhospitable terrain. See p. 248. uncovered, but also some grave • A Visit to Gamlia (Umeå): Along carvings and, most notably, tomb the Bothnian Coast, Umeå is furniture. A total of eight runic called “the city of birch trees,” slabs depict scenes from everyday because hundreds of these trees life, including horses and a sleigh, grow here. In this leafy setting lies plus a bit of prehistoric humor in a museum complex called Gamlia, 1 what appears to be a troupe of less than a kilometer ( ⁄2 mile) dancing seals. See p. 206. northeast of the city center, but • Eketorp Ring-Fort (Öland): centuries into the past. At the This fortified village, built inside original museum, Friluftsmuseet, of a ring-shaped enclosure for you can view 20 old-fashioned defensive purposes, is the most buildings, many of them dating important of more than a dozen from the 17th century. Guides pre-historic forts known to have dressed up in clothing like that existed on Öland in prerecorded worn 200 or 300 years ago will times. It appears that the heavily show you around while answering protected village was inhabited by questions about how the people various settlers from A.D. 300 to lived and worked. On the same 1300. Swedish archaeologists have site is the Västerbottens Museum, filled the settlement with the Iron with a repository of artifacts— Age-style houses that once existed some prehistoric—discovered in here, and they have reconstructed the area. See section 8, “Umeå,” in a massive wall along its edges. chapter 11. Although it is a reconstruction, it

6 The Best Museums • Millesgården (Lidingö, outside and from Bellini to van Gogh, a Stockholm): Sweden’s foremost panoply of European art unfolds sculptor, Carl Milles (1875–1955), before your eyes. In addition to lived here and created a sculpture paintings, you’ll find antique garden by the sea that now has porcelain, furniture, and clocks. been turned into a museum. See p. 92. Milles relied heavily on mytholog- • Vasamuseet (Royal Warship ical themes in his work, and many Vasa) (Stockholm): In the of his best-known pieces are dis- Djurgården, this 17th-century played here. See p. 94. man-of-war, which is now a • Nationalmuseum (National museum, is a popular tourist Museum of Art) (Stockholm): attraction. The Vasa is the world’s One of the oldest museums in the oldest known complete ship. It world (it celebrated its 200th capsized and sank on its maiden birthday in 1992), the National voyage in 1628 before horrified Museum houses Sweden’s treasure onlookers. The ship was salvaged trove of rare paintings and sculp- in 1961 and has been carefully ture. From Rembrandt to Rubens, restored; 97% of its 700 original 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 8

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sculptured decorative motifs were • Åjtte (Jokkmokk): In true Lapp retrieved. See p. 93. country, this is the best repository • Göteborgs Konstmuseum (Goth- of artifacts of the Sami culture. enburg): This is the city’s leading Integrating nature with culture, art museum, a repository of mod- the museum is the largest of its ern paintings that’s strong on kind in the world. It depicts how French Impressionists, including the Lapps lived and struggled for van Gogh and Bonnard. Modern survival in a harsh terrain; the artists such as Picasso and Edvard houses they lived in and the ani- Munch also are represented, as are mals and weapons needed for sculptures by Milles. See p. 146. their livelihood are featured. See p. 351.

7 The Best Castles & Palaces • Drottningholm Palace and The- today the castle is surrounded by a ater (Drottningholm): Lying 11km recreation area with beautiful gar- (7 miles) from Stockholm on an dens. The great courtyard here is island in Lake Mälaren, Drott- high drama, with thousands of ningholm, or “Queen’s Island,” flowers and exotic shrubs. You can has been dubbed the Versailles of bring along a picnic lunch to Sweden. It is a magnificent royal enjoy on the grounds. See p. 201. residence, a gem of baroque archi- • Kalmar Slott (Kalmar): Once tecture with a palace, gardens, a called “the key to Sweden,” this Chinese pavilion, and one of the historic castle was the setting for most remarkable court theaters in the Kalmar Union that temporarily Europe. Since 1981, Sweden’s united the thrones of Denmark, royal family has occupied the Norway, and Sweden in 1397. south wing. See p. 94. The original keep dates from the • Kungliga Slottet (Stockholm): 12th century, but in the 16th cen- One of the few official residences tury King Gustav Vasa rebuilt the of the royal family that is open to castle, and his sons eventually the public, this palace in Gamla transformed it into a Renaissance Stan (Stockholm’s Old Town) palace. The castle is the major site dates back 700 years. Encompass- in this port city in southern Swe- ing 608 rooms, today it is used by den, which also makes a good base the Swedish king and his family for exploring the “kingdom of mainly for ceremonial occasions. crystal,” the bargainfilled concen- The 18th-century Royal Apart- tration of glassworks. See p. 220. ments with their painted ceilings, • Läckö Slott (Lidköping): Lying in glittering chandeliers, and heir- the vicinity of the pleasant little loom tapestries are the highlight town of Lidköping, this castle on of any visit. See p. 88. the waters of Lake Vänern often • Castle of Bosjökloster (Lund): has been likened to a fairy-tale set- The origins of this former Bene- ting. Between 1298 and 1681, dictine convent date from 1080. 250 rooms were built, many quite Closed in the 1500s, at the time of large; only the royal palace in the Reformation, it fell into disre- Stockholm is larger than Läckö. pair but has since been restored to As you approach from a distance, some of its former glory. Situated its distinctive white walls, towers, on the shores of Lake Ringsjö, and turrets seem to rise out of the 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 9

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water. The palace furnishings A visit here and a walk through eventually were carted off and the the once royal grounds is a high- rooms left bare, but over the years light of any trip to the waters of many of the original furnishings Lake Vänern. See p. 276. have been reclaimed and returned.

8 The Best Cathedrals & Abbeys • Riddarholm Church (Stock- ancient in Sweden. It was conse- holm): Evoking pre-Reformation crated in 1145, although actually Sweden, this is one of the best- launched sometime in the 1080s preserved Franciscan churches left by King Canute II. Some of the in northern Europe. After being sculptural details of its architec- consecrated at the dawn of the ture evoke Lombardy or other 14th century, it served for cen- parts of Italy. This is especially evi- turies as the mausoleum for dent in its apse, which dates from Swedish royalty. The church’s cast- the 1130s. See p. 196. iron steeple, which dates from • Vadstena Abbey (Vadstena): Swe- 1841, remains one of the most den’s greatest abbey is dedicated to distinctive landmarks on the its patron saint, St. Birgitta, who Stockholm skyline. The interior is has brought lasting fame to this especially impressive; coats of charming little town on the shores arms of knights of the Order of of Lake Vättern. In the Middle Seraphim, founded in 1336, cover Ages, the abbey was at the center the walls. The floor is paved with of a pilgrimage, which earned it gravestones. After you visit the the appellation of “Rome of the church, you can walk through North.” One of the most impor- Stockholm’s Gamla Stan, or Old tant stopovers for those taking the Town. See p. 95. Göta Canal trip, Vadstena is dom- • Uppsala Domkyrka (Uppsala): inated by its Klosterkyrkan, or This twin-spired Gothic structure, Abbey Church, built between the nearly 120m (400 ft.) tall, was mid-14th and 15th centuries to constructed in the 13th century. the specifications of its founder, Today, the silhouette of this St. Birgitta herself. This Gothic largest cathedral in Scandinavia church is rich in art and relics dominates the landscape, afford- from the Middle Ages. See p. 239. ing Uppsala the status of ecclesias- • Kiruna Kyrka (Kiruna): This tical capital of Sweden. With a church in the far north of Sweden remarkably simple layout com- in the midst of Lapland would pared to other major European hardly make it in the grand cathe- cathedrals, its high Gothic aura is dral circuit of northern Europe. nevertheless impressive. In one of However, it is one of the most the chapels on the south aisle, you unusual churches in the world and can visit the tomb of the philoso- causes a lot of raised eyebrows at pher Emanuel Swedenborg (1688– first sight. It was constructed in 1772). See p. 122. 1912 like a stylized Sami tent, • Domkyrkan (Cathedral of Lund) with an origami design of rafters (Lund): The apex of Romanesque and wood beams. In Lapland it is architecture in Sweden, this hailed as “the Shrine of the imposing twin-towered gray sand- Nomadic people.” A free-standing stone cathedral is one of the most bell tower in front is supported by 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 10

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props and the tombstone of the Paradise as a Tuscan, not Lap- founder of Kiruna. The only pish, landscape. See section 8, incongruous note is that the altar- “Kiruna,” in chapter 12. piece has a scene representing

9 The Best Hotels • Grand Hotel (Stockholm; & 800/ Gothenburg’s premier hotel has 223-5652 in the U.S., or 08/679- hosted everybody from the Beatles 35-00): Opposite the Royal Palace, to David Rockefeller. Located on this is the most prestigious hotel Gothenburg’s attractive main in Sweden; many well-known boulevard, near the cultural center, people have stayed here, from it’s a cosmopolitan hotel with a actress Sarah Bernhardt to Nobel fresh and contemporary ambi- Prize winners. Set on the water- ence. The best double rooms are front, it dates from 1874 but is quite spacious and decorated in continuously renovated to keep it a semi-modern, sleek style; about in state-of-the-art condition. The a quarter of the guest rooms rooms have been luxuriously are equipped with balconies. See redecorated, and the bathrooms p. 138. are made of Italian marble with • Elite Plaza (Gothenburg; & 031/ under-floor heating. See p. 62. 720-40-00): This is not only the • Nordic Hotel (Stockholm; newest but one of the very best & 800/337-4685): Unique for hotels to open in Gothenburg in the Swedish capital, this two-in- recent years. A 19th-century one hotel is as modern and dra- insurance company was gutted matic as the 21st century itself. and recycled into a superior first- Turning to the cold Arctic waters class hotel with many of its origi- of the north and the northern nal architectural features intact. lights for its architectural inspira- The building not only got a new tion, the hotel creates an “only-in- lease on life, but visitors to Sweden” aura that definitely makes Gothenburg today have a place to you feel you’re in the far north of stay that’s as good as some of the Europe. See p. 63. most superior hotels in Stock- • Victory Hotel (Stockholm; & 08/ holm. See p. 136. 506-400-00): In the Old Town, • Marina Plaza (Helsingborg; this small but stylish hotel ranks & 800/528-1234 in the U.S., or among the top in Sweden. Famous 042/19-21-00): This is the most for the treasure once buried here innovative hotel in this port city, (part of which can be seen at the which faces the eastern coast of Stockholm City Museum), the Denmark across from “Hamlet’s hotel originally was built in 1642. Castle.” A nautical decor prevails, The well-furnished bedrooms and large glass windows are typical with modern beds typically have of the sleek, contemporary archi- exposed beams and pine floors. tecture of Sweden. With its rock On a small rooftop terrace, tables gardens, abundant flowers, and are arranged around a fountain. fountains, it is a lovely place to See p. 71. spend the night in grand comfort • Radisson SAS Park Avenue and style. See p. 179. Hotel (Gothenburg; & 800/333- • Calmar Stadhotell (Kalmar; 3333 in the U.S., or 031/758-40- & 0480/496-900): With very 00): Since its opening in 1950, reasonably priced rooms, at times 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 11

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less than 900SEK ($100) a night 18th-century manor house with in a double, this is an exceptional yellow clapboards and a red roof, choice for lodgings in this historic standing in its own park-like port city in southeastern Sweden. grounds. Surrounded by 19th- A landmark hotel constructed in century antiques, you can enjoy 1906, but completely modernized life as it was lived in old Sweden, in 1999, it still retains its look of all at a very reasonable price. See romanticized architecture, with p. 274. gables and a bell tower. Many Art • Best Western Elite Stadshotellet Nouveau embellishments remain, Karlstad (Karlstad; & 054/293- including cut-glass chandeliers 000): In the heart of the folkloric and an Edwardian-style library. Its province of Värmland, this hotel, bedrooms are the largest and most behind its neo-baroque facade, is comfortable in town. See p. 222. one of the most impressive of the • Halltorps Gästgiveri (Borgholm; 19th-century hotels remaining in & 0485/850-00): On the Baltic Sweden. If you like old-fashioned Island of Öland, you can stay in style but modern comfort, this is an inn that dates from 1850. It for you. From its British-inspired has been a restaurant longer than pub to its gourmet restaurant, it’s it has been a hotel, but it is an a winner. See p. 289. ideal place to stay on this historic • The Ice Hotel (Jukkasjärvi; island. Bedrooms are light and & 980/668-00): Surely there is airy and are frequently renovated, no hotel in all of Europe as curi- ensuring a good night’s sleep ous as this one deep in the heart of in comfort and style. Its restau- Swedish Lapland. Every winter rant, Bakfickan, or “hip pocket” the hotel is carved out of the ice at in English, is one of Öland’s best. a point 200km (125 miles) north See p. 254. of the Arctic Circle. Come spring, • Ronnums Herrgård (Vargön; this igloo-shaped hotel literally & 0521/223270): One of the melts away. In its glacial setting, most idyllic stopovers along the guests can check in for an icy Göta Canal is in Vargön, which a night—hopefully with a good bed poet once labeled “Little Paris.” In partner. If you’ve ever dreamed of this setting of charm and grace, living like an Eskimo, here is your you can enjoy life in a restored wintry chance. See p. 360.

10 The Best Restaurants • Ben Lloc (Stockholm; & 08/660- tables on the fashionable Strand- 6060): The culinary rage of Stock- vägen, this exclusive restaurant is holm is the domain of the capital’s set in a patrician residence dating finest chef, Mathias Dahlgren, from 1873. The most innovative who turns out a Mediterranean restaurant in Stockholm, it’s the cuisine. In the kitchen the chef creation of German owners Paul marches to his own drummer, cre- Beck and Norbert Lang. In winter, ating original, imaginative dishes the Swedish game served here is that are influenced by other without equal in the country— recipes but given a distinctly orig- just try the pigeon with Calvados inal touch at this temple of gas- sauce. And you can always count tronomy. See p. 73. on something tempting and • Paul & Norbert (Stockholm; unusual; sautéed sweetbreads in & 08/663-81-83): With only eight nettle sauce, anyone? See p. 76. 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 12

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• Gripsholms Värdshus Restau- with lingonberry sauce or breast of rant (Mariefred; & 0159/34750): wild duck with rhubarb chutney. If you’re seeking traditional See p. 180. Swedish food with French over- • Kalmar Hamn Krog (Kalmar; tones, this is the best dining & 0480/411-020): Since it was choice on the periphery of the established in 1988 in this historic capital. Local game dishes, includ- port city in southeastern Sweden, ing wild grouse, are featured in this international restaurant has autumn, and marinated salmon quickly moved to the front of the with a mild mustard sauce is a line. Hailed as the best in town, it year-round favorite. Tastings also prepares reasonably priced food can be arranged in the wine cellar. with flair, using only market-fresh See p. 125. ingredients deftly handled by a • Sjömagasinet (Gothenburg; trained kitchen staff. The chefs & 031/775-59-20): By far the borrow freely from the world’s most intriguing and interesting larders, using spices or ingredients restaurant in town, this is one of from any country where their the finest places to go for seafood culinary imaginations wander. See on the west coast of Sweden. p. 224. Lying in the western suburb of • Halltorps Gästgiveri (Borgholm; Klippan, this converted 1775 & 0485/850-00): On the historic warehouse serves an array of fresh Baltic island of Öland, this din- fish whose flavor never diminishes ing room serving Swedish food regardless of the sauce or prep- takes you back to the good old aration. The fish and shellfish days. Here you can feast on pot-au-feu with a chive-flavored the dishes beloved by your crème fraîche is worth the trek. great-grandparents—provided See p. 142. they came from Sweden. Herbs • Hipp (Malmö; & 040/94-70- and vegetables come from suppli- 30): Even the Danes are flocking ers who grow them right on the across the new Øresund Bridge to island, and the local fishers bring dine at Malmö’s “hip” new Hipp in their catch of the day. The place Restaurant. Its blend of Swedish is charming, a bit stylish, and and French cuisines is so success- occupies one of the oldest manor ful that so far it’s attracted every- houses on the island. See p. 255. body from Scandinavian prime • Stek Huset (Karlstad; & 054/56- ministers to Hollywood actors. In 00-80): Deep in the heart of the a Belle Epoque setting, menu province of Värmland, made items are the freshest in town, famous by the great international each platter a “creation” from the writer Selma Lagerlöf, you can kitchen. See p. 191. dine on refined Swedish and inter- • Anna Kock (Helsingborg; & 042/ national cuisine, some of the best 18-13-00): “Anna the Cook” was in the area. Patrons arrive from known all over this port city across miles around to enjoy the fare, all the eastern coast from Denmark. for a reasonable price. Fresh fish She’s gone now, but her relatives and steaks often are flambéed at carry on, offering inexpensive the table with high drama. See Swedish food with style and flair. p. 292. In this cozy enclave, feast on • Restaurant Kriti (Skellefteå; such dishes as filet of reindeer & 0910/77-95-35): Along the 52464x Ch01.qxd 3/26/03 8:55 AM Page 13

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Bothnian coast of eastern Sweden, of snow and ice. Dig into their across from Finland, this restau- stuffed grape leaves, souvlaki, or rant in a port city of the far north moussaka, and you’ll think you’re is acclaimed for its Greek food. A looking at the Acropolis instead of taste of the Mediterranean cheers a wintry landscape. Their pizzas devoted local diners during the also are known as the best along long, dark, Swedish winter nights the coast. See p. 337.