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The Gambia in Style The Gambia in Style Naturetrek Tour Report 6 - 13 December 2019 Four-banded Sandgrouse - John Young Black Heron - Dave Levy Splendid Sunbird - Dave Levy Guinea Baboon - Dave Levy Report compiled by Andy Smith Images courtesy of Dave Levy & John Young Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Gambia in Style Tour participants: Andy Smith (Leader) with nine Naturetrek clients Plus local guides Lamin Jarju, Lamin Sanneh, Alajie Bojang and Amadou Day 1 Friday 6th December We arrived at Yundum international airport pretty much on time in the late afternoon and after meeting up with our bus and driver we headed off towards Mandina Lodge. We passed through Yundum town and then Brikama and had our first taste of Gambian street scenes, rich with people and activity. Just past Brikama we turned off on to a sand track through fields and scrub towards the Makasutu Forest and Mandina itself. Birds along the way included lots of Hooded Vultures, Yellow-billed Kites and Pied Crows, a range of doves, some Long-tailed Glossy Starlings and a few Grey Plantain-eaters. A neat little Gambian Sun Squirrel in a trackside tree was a nice bonus and a group of colourful Senegal Parrots provided a nice welcome as we arrived at Mandina itself. Our hostess Linda gave us a brief introduction to the lodge and then, as night swiftly fell, we went off to our rooms to settle in prior to dinner. Day 2 Saturday 7th December We met on the terrace by the swimming pool at dawn, drank coffee, soaked up the morning dove chorus, watched Senegal Parrots and Plantain-eaters in the trees around us and enjoyed the sunrise. Then at 7.30 we set off in a couple of canoes with local guides AJ, Lamin and Amadou. We paddled slowly along the creek past mangrove-lined shores and absorbed more of the morning unfolding around us. Interesting sightings came thick and fast: Pied Kingfishers and Broad-billed Rollers, some Rose-ringed Parakeets, two Grey Hornbills, several Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters, a pair of Grey Woodpeckers and a sizeable troop of Guinea Baboons, sitting around in the morning sun and oblivious to our passing. We disembarked at a beach by the village of Bufaloto with Senegal Thick-knees and a Green-backed Heron lurking amongst the mangrove roots and took a short stroll along a track through patches of scrub and small fields. The action continued and in a short space of time we saw some Red-billed Hornbills, a gang of Piapiacs, a couple of Spur-winged Lapwings, a troop of engaging Green Wood-hoopoes and a mixed flock of small things that included Village Indigobirds, Pin-tailed Whydahs, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus, Red-billed Firefinches and a pair of Orange-cheeked Waxbills! There frequently seemed to be too much to look at all at once and the whole scene was topped off by close-up views of Scarlet-chested, Beautiful and Variable Sunbirds feeding amongst a bank of flowers – dazzling colours indeed! Breakfast beckoned and so we headed back to the beach and the canoes. The short paddle back to Mandina brought views of a perched Osprey and a range of waders on the newly exposed mud and then it was brunch and a break. Siesta time strolls for some to the water tanks just outside the entrance were productive and sightings between us included Splendid and Green-headed Sunbirds, Spotted Honeyguide and Lavender Waxbill. Meanwhile, out on the areas of exposed tidal mud around the lodge the local Green Vervet Monkeys, a daily feature at Mandina, were out digging up and eating crabs, a significant part of their diet. © Naturetrek January 20 1 The Gambia in Style Tour Report In the mid-afternoon we reconvened. Some of the group went out on the Sunset Cruise that took us out to the wide Gambia River itself and to an impressive mixed egret and cormorant roost on a small island. Other goodies seen along the way included a couple of superb Goliath Herons, several African Darters, dozens of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, a neat Baudouin’s Snake Eagle and a sizeable Nile Crocodile. The rest of the group enjoyed a walk to the so-called Mudflat and came back reporting Bearded Barbets, Grey-headed Bristlebills and a Klaas’s Cuckoo. All in all a very satisfying first day! Day 3 Sunday 8th December After an early breakfast we headed off from Mandina on one of our “break-out” days. Our main destination was Kartong, an area of coastal wetlands near the Senegalese border. Our route took us through Gunjur and on the way we made a series of roadside stops. The first was for a superb Grey Kestrel, smart and robust, perched up on a roadside wire. The second, for a similarly perched Shikra, led to a wonderful twenty minutes or so during which a riotous pageant of birds appeared before us in the roadside gardens. Highlights included White-crowned Robin-Chat, Yellow-crowned Gonolek, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Grey Woodpecker, Northern Black Flycatcher and Yellow-billed Shrike. A third and last stop by a big fruiting fig tree just before Kartong produced excellent views of a stunning pair of Bearded Barbets, seven smart African Green Pigeons and a dazzling male African Golden Oriole! At Kartong itself we took a lengthy stroll through scrubby fields and past various reed-fringed ponds. Once again there was a lot to look at and we were treated to a feast of birds. On the pools we found Squacco Herons, Purple Swamphens, African Jacanas, White-faced Whistling Ducks and a series of Malachite Kingfishers, whilst out in the fields and scrub we enjoyed great views of Piapiacs, Wood-hoopoes, Long-tailed, Purple and Bronze- tailed Glossy Starlings, Brown Babblers and a superb Grey-headed Kingfisher. A Pink-backed Pelican and a Yellow-billed Stork passed overhead, two Yellow-billed Oxpeckers attended a cow and a large Nile Monitor basked on a distant sandbank. We finished the morning at Kartong beach watching a nice range of waders and terns and then headed off lunchwards noting an Abyssinian Roller by the track on the way out. Lunch was taken at a busy beachside restaurant a little up the coast then we continued on towards the fishing port of Tanji. An impromptu stop en- route for a roadside Lizard Buzzard also led to some nice views of two superb Blue-bellied Rollers. At Tanji itself we walked a little along the beach and took in the bustling and colourful human scene of people, nets and boats and enjoyed some very close views of Bar-tailed Godwits, Turnstones and Grey-headed Gulls along the strand- line and both Caspian and Royal Terns in the air overhead. After a brief walk through the fish-smoking sheds above the beach which provided an interesting spectacle, we re-joined our bus and made our way back to Mandina. It had been another full and enjoyable day. Day 4 Monday 9th December After early morning coffee, and some nice views of a Giant Kingfisher and a neat little Brown Sunbird from the riverside deck, we set off in the canoes along the creek. A short, serene little journey took us to a landing beach and a track into an area of palm scrub and fields. 2 © Naturetrek January 20 The Gambia in Style Tour Report Things seemed a little slow at first but soon livened up. The first action was a sizeable flock of Black-winged Red Bishops skulking in some scrub. A few of the males were just coming into their breeding plumage and gave a good suggestion of the bright colours to come. Next up were a series of Senegal Coucals, a gang of White-billed Buffalo Weavers, a dazzling Gonolek, a distant Yellow-throated Leaflove and a brief Cardinal Woodpecker. A little further on a pair of Blue-billed Rollers posed beautifully, a Hammerkop flew over, and a pair of Grey Hornbills squeaked their way through the trees. A smart Harrier-hawk and a couple of Lanners added further quality but top of the bill was a dazzling Violet Turaco that allowed us some pretty good views as it skulked its way through the foliage of a fruiting tree in loose company with a Bearded Barbet. Phew! What a morning! Back at Mandina a siesta-time walk along the entrance track produced some excellent views of a pair of Common Wattle-eyes and a lovely Snowy-crowned Robin Chat, whilst flocks of Little and White-throated Bee- eaters spent some time dip-bathing in the swimming pool. In the late afternoon some of us took a walk from the lodge to the so-called “Big Forest” where highlights included a Fine-spotted Woodpecker, some Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters, a Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher and a group of Black-capped Babblers. The remainder of the group went off on the second Sunset Cruise and reported encounters with Goliath Herons, Pink-backed Pelicans a Palm-nut Vulture and a couple of large Crocodiles. Day 5 Tuesday 10th December After our early morning coffee on the terrace and the regular dawn Parrot assembly in the big poolside tree we set off for a walk along the trails to an area of open ground-nut and millet fields. It was a beautiful morning again and our expectations were high. The first really notable sighting was a Pied Hornbill which perched out in the open for some time and allowed us all good views.
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