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Namibia and Botswana Namibia and Botswana 8 – 23 September 2012 Guide: Steve Braine INTRODUCTION A very successful trip was undertaken before the annual migrants had arrived through Namibia and a portion of Botswana incorporating a section of the Okavango pan handle, (the area which widens out to form the impressive Okavango swamps). The trip entailed driving a total distance of 3503 km starting in the capital of Namibia, Windhoek and ending at this same destination. During the trip a total of 345 species were seen, a further five species were heard and not seen, 42 various mammals and 9 species of reptiles were also recorded. Arlan and Linda arrived at Hosea Kutako airport outside Windhoek at 12h00 on the 8 September and we then transferred to our overnight accommodation in Windhoek, the Onganga Guesthouse. The rest of the afternoon we spent around the Avis dam on the outskirts of Windhoek and thereafter we visited the Gammams sewerage works. We recorded a total of 60 species for the first day and around Avis Dam we had good views of Burnt-necked Eremomela, a soaring African White-backed Vulture, perched views of Black-winged (Black-shouldered) Kite, Rock Kestrel, Black-faced (cheeked) Waxbill, Pririt Batis, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Chestnut-vented Tit Babbler (Warbler), and along the shore line African Pipit, Black-winged Stilt, Blacksmith’s Plover (Lapwing), Little Egret and Three-banded and Kittlitz’s Plover. We also had very brief views of a pair of Orange-river Francolins and African Quail Finch; the former flushed from near the pathway by ourselves the latter flushed by some folks walking their dogs! When reaching our parked vehicle after our walk we had our first pair of Monteiro’s Hornbills fly by. At the Gammams sewerage works we added, to our now growing list, a few hundred Great White Pelicans, many Egyptian geese, White-breasted and Reed Cormorants, South African Shelduck, Cape Shoveler, Southern Pochard, Red-billed Teal, Maccoa Duck and two African Black Duck, also stunning views of Purple Gallinule (African Swamphen),Red-knobbed Coot, Common Moorhen, Little Grebe (Dabchick), Darter, Grey Heron, Cattle and Little Egret, also African (Marsh) Reed-Warbler, White-throated Swallow, White-backed Mousebird and the first of many Rock Martin. After booking out of our overnight accommodation on our second day we purchased some picnic lunch and travelled via Rehoboth and Nauchas to our next overnight at Namibgrens situated on the escarpment a few kilometres before the spectacular Spreetshoogte pass. Just as we were leaving Windhoek we had views of Grey Hornbill and Bradfield’s Swifts soaring overhead, then along the road to Rehoboth we had very good views of a pair of Secretary birds, soaring Tawny Eagle, the first of many Cape Glossy and Burchell’s Starlings, Southern Yellow-billed Hornbills and on entering Rehoboth we had Alpine and Little Swifts circling overhead. From Rehoboth to Nauchas we saw the first of many Pale Chanting Goshawks as well as a few Buffy Pipits, Sociable Weavers with their enormous nest structures in the trees as well as Telegraph poles, good views of Rufous-eared Warbler, Spike-heeled larks, Brubru, Dusky Sunbirds, Fiscal Shrikes (the western race with a prominent white supercilium), Chat and Marico Flycatchers, Scaly-feathered (Finch) Weaver, and Booted Eagles. On arrival at Namibgrens Guestfarm we had good sightings of Scarlet- chested Sunbird, Layard’s and Chestnut-vented (Warbler) Tit-Babbler, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Crimson-breasted Shrike (Boubou), and the stunning White-tailed Shrike. Late afternoon we took a walk around the farm dam and had hundreds of Red-billed Teal, about fifty Maccoa Ducks, four Cape Shoveler,South African Shelduck, Egyptian Geese, Little Stints, Common Greenshanks, Wood Sandpiper, Pied Avocets, Blacksmith’s Plover (Lapwing), Three-banded Plover, Cape Wagtail, Little Grebe (Dabchick) and on the walk back Pied Barbet and Cardinal Woodpecker. The following morning after breakfast we headed to the Spreetshoogte area to search for the elusive Herero Chat and Cinnamon-breasted Warbler but unfortunately a strong icy wind kept all the birds at bay and none of these were encountered, however near the bottom of the pass we had good views of White-throated Canary and Lark-like Bunting. Three majestic Kudu bulls made up for the loss of birds in the strong winds and later on we saw many Chat Flycatchers, Rock Martins, Mountain Wheatears, Ostrich, Greater Kestrels, and splendid close up views of Rüppell’s Korhaan. Just before stopping for lunch at the Rostock Ritz, we stopped at the red dunes on the border of the Namib Park and called in a pair of the only true Namibian endemic, the Dune Lark,a little further on we had fine views of Cape (Black) Crows and another Greater Kestrel and near the lodge a pair of Namaqua Sandgrouse. After lunch we travelled via the Gaub and Kuiseb passes, through the Namib Park to Swakopmund. Highlights along the route were Karroo Lark, Karroo Chat, several more Rüppell’s Korhaan,Ostrich as well as good herds of Springbok, Oryx, a few distant Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra, Giraffe and a family of distant Suricates (Meercats). Further along the road we stopped at the amazing Welwitchia mirabilis plants often referred to as the living fossils of the Namib, this is the only related conifer in Southern Africa. Just before entering Swakopmund we stopped at a small wetland in the Swakop River and recorded Tractrac Chat, Chestnut-banded Plover more Kittlitz’s Plovers, and at the Swakop salt works Curlew Sandpipers, Common Greenshanks, Pied Avocets, Kelp and Hartlaub’s Gulls, a few Greater and Lesser Flamingos and then we proceeded to Hotel Pension Rapmund where we spent the next two nights. The following morning after breakfast we headed for the Walvis Bay lagoon, a proclaimed Ramsar site where we had spectacular views of thousands of both Greater and Lesser Flamingos, hundreds of various Sandpipers including Curlew Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper (the only one on the trip), Little Stints, Common Greenshanks, White-fronted and Chestnut- banded Plovers, Pied Avocets, Black-winged Stilts, Ruddy Turnstones, Ringed Plovers, and various Terns including Caspian, Swift (Greater crested), Sandwich and Common. Black- necked Grebes were plentiful and we found a small group of six Red-necked Phalaropes before heading back to the desert to look for the desert adapted Gray’s Lark. At the Guano platform between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay we saw thousands of Cape Cormorants and also had good scope views of Crowned Cormorant. We then searched the plains north of Swakopmund town where we found several Red-capped Larks, very good close up views of Tractrac Chat and eventually the Gray’s Lark. On returning we were lucky to see a single African Black Oystercatcher and near the Hotel good views of Orange River White-eye. The following morning after breakfast saw us leaving in dense fog which continued for about 70 km before clearing, we were now travelling via the Spitzkoppe commonly referred to the Matterhorn of Namibia! And then we moved on to Omaruru for the next two nights. Here we were to search once again for the elusive Herero Chat amongst others. Just before the Spitzkoppe we had a huge Cape Cobra sunning itself on the road and shortly afterwards were rewarded with good views of Karoo Long-billed Lark. At the Spitzkoppe we added Cape Bunting, Green-winged Pytilia, Mountain Wheatear, Pale-winged Starling, and we heard Bokmakierie calling in the distance but were unable to call it out or see it. We however kept on searching for the Herero Chat and eventually found a fairly confiding bird which we followed as it was foraging and Linda was able to get some good pictures of the bird. While following this bird we also flushed a male Double-banded Sandgrouse which we had brief views of. We then had lunch and set off to our next destination in Omaruru, as we were leaving Linda spotted a big bird in the shade of a small tree which turned out to be the only Ludwig’s Bustard of the trip! After booking in at our accommodation in Omaruru we set out on a short drive where we managed to get views of African Barred (Wren) Warbler, Violet-eared Waxbill,distant Hartlaub’s Francolin(Spurfowl), Pearl-spotted Owl and a Black Mongoose (Shadow Hunter) before returning where we called up a very obliging African Scops Owl. The following morning we devoted our time to the Francolin and Rockrunner and were rewarded with superb sightings of both species. We also managed to see a perched but distant Verreaux’s Eagle, Damara Red-billed Hornbill, Carp’s Tits, Southern Yellow-billed Hornbills, Violet-eared Waxbills, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Red-crested Korhaan and Double-banded Sandgrouse on the road. On returning to our hotel we had superb views of Violet Woodhoopoe, Southern Pied Babbler, Red-faced Mousebird, and Common Scimitarbill. Later on a short walk we found Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Golden-breasted Bunting, a close up Lilac-breasted Roller and on arrival back at our hotel a brief glimpse of a pair of Rüppell’s Parrots. The next morning we added White-browed Coucal to the list as it worked its way through the reed beds behind the lodge, possibly a vagrant to the area. We then headed northbound for the Etosha National Park where we were to spend one night at Okaukuejo and two nights in Halali within the Park. We travelled via Kalkveld and Outjo and en route had spectacular views of Lappet-faced and African White-backed Vultures perched in trees near the road, we also got good views of Tawny Eagle, Crowned Lapwing (Plover),Fawn-coloured Lark and several Southern Yellow-billed and Damara Red-billed Hornbills before entering the park.
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