C A R I B B E A N FREE C MPASS JANUARY 2010 NO. 172 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

The Young-at-Heart ARC!

See story on page 14 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Cover photo: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Plumbelly ofBequia Sailing aLegend Caribbean EventsCalendar2010 It’s AllHappening! 22 Up Guyana’sEssequibo ...... River Ramble 12 Updates andtips ...... Security Scene The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore Mini Maxi JANUARY 2010•NUMBER172 www.caribbeancompass.com

...... 33 ...... , winnerofARC2009BestFamilyPerformancePhoto:TimWright/www.photoaction.com . 27 ..

Click GoogleMaplinkbelowto fi

DILALLA BERNFELD e ute iei oar . 36 Sea turtlesdineinBonaire ... They LoveLacBay Marie Galante ‘Our FavoriteIsland’ choosesGrenada

.34 ..

nd the ROBERT VAN DAM VAN ROBERT [email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,Tel:(767)448-2705, Dominica: Tel: (5999)4627733 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel/Fax: (246)423-4600 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410 Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissionstosally@caribbeancompass.com. Caribbean Compass ol’ epSces...... 40 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... Cruising Kids’Corner 40 ...... Fun Pages...... 38,39 32 Cruiser Profile ...... Meridian Passage 32 ...... 26 Sailors’ Hikes ...... 21 Destinations ...... 12 Regatta News...... 8 Business Briefs ...... Caribbean Compass can use.We’re theCaribbean’smonthlylookatseaandshore. Panama toBarbuda,we’vegotthenewsandviewsthatsailors AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution-BudgetMarineCuraçao Compass Distribution - Doyle Sails Distribution-DoyleSails Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwrittenpermissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2010 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsnoliabilityfordelayeddistributionorprintingqualityastheseservicesare responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissionsmaybeeditedlengthclarity. responsibility oftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompassPublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! coverstheCaribbean!FromCubatoTrinidad, from it there,wewouldallbe‘inirons’! community intheregionaswindistosailing:without read forcasualandprofessionalsailorsalike.” Customs rules,conditionsandevents—makeitamust- in theislands—suchasculture,Immigrationand The “The Compass’s Caribbean Compass DEPARTMENTS nearyou! ISSN 1605-1998 Tobago CarnivalRegatta Regatta PromotersLtd. — NikiBorde,Manager extensivecoverageofallthatgoeson But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandletterstoeditoraresole Advertisers’ Index 54 ...... 54 Classified Ads ...... 51 Caribbean Marketplace...... 50 Monthly Calendar ...... What’s onMyMind Readers’ Forum 48 ...... Cooking withCruisers....44-46 Book Reviews 42 ...... The CaribbeanSky 41 ...... [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448 Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: (868)621-0575,Cell:620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (599)5533850,[email protected] Distribution -EricBendahan [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed magazineistothesailing Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre St. Maarten/St.Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Tel: (758)484-0555, St. Lucia: [email protected] (0596) 596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Cell: (473)457-2151Office:444-3222 Ad Sales&Distribution-KarenMaaroufi Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Distribution-GladysJones Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Distribution -LisaKessell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Tel: AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePradoTel: ...... 49 ...... Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales-DebraDavis, JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 outbound and PM inbound, 4:30 AM outbound, 11:30 AM inbound, 11:00 AM inbound. This schedule will run until May 2010. The PAYS patrol boat, a boost to yacht security in Portsmouth, Dominica The PAYS patrol boat, a boost to yacht security in Portsmouth, PM For more information contact Jeff Frank at (767) 245-0125 or Helen Clarke For more information contact Jeff Frank at (767) 245-0125 St. Maarten Bridge Openings Bay Lagoon, St. As is customary every “high” season, the bridge into Simpson Users of small craft are requested not to transit the bridge channel during bridge Users of small craft are requested not to transit the bridge Dominica. Please help support our program by using PAYS members for your yacht Dominica. Please help support our program by using events. services when coming to Dominica and joining in our fun at (767) 275-3020. the vessels that make Maarten, opens six times during the day in order to handle openings are: 9:00AM out- use of several marinas in the lagoon. The daily seasonal bound, 9:30 service companies, restaurants and dive centres in the community. Funding for the centres in the community. restaurants and dive service companies, yacht moorings fees, donations, fees from is provided by membership night security All ser- barbecues and other fun activities. Bay, fund-raising beach in Prince Rupert are dedicat- basis and all proceeds by members on a voluntary vices are provided in develop the yachting sector your security and to helping ed to ensuring opening hours. Boats docking at the BBW dock should not be maneuvering in the opening hours. Boats docking at the BBW dock should craft must make use of the channel during the bridge operational hours. Small sea port channel when passing under the bridge. page —Continued on next 5:30 ] Cruising has a large aerial photo on page 262 that clear- has a large aerial photo on Editor’s note: Nancy and Simon Scott’s Editor’s note: Nancy and Simon

Security Patrols in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica Services and Security (PAYS) Helen Clarke reports: Portsmouth Association of Yacht regular basis but we could Please note that we tried to patrol the south end on a in 2007, and includes 17 PAYS is a registered non-profit association, established Round Reef is situated right in the middle of what one would think is the channel. ToRound Reef is situated right (DPNR) has installed Also, St. Croix’s Department of Planning and Natural Resources St. Croix Warning and Update has been a major problem with yachts enteringMarilyn Cook reports: There

& Updates Info would like to remind all yachts visiting Dominica to moor or anchor in the north end would like to remind all yachts visiting Dominica to moor the Purple Turtle) where of Prince Rupert Bay (between Blue Bay Restaurant and that some visitors security patrols are conducted nightly. Although we recognize conditions do not permit prefer the seclusion of the south end, current economic is one of the safest coun- our group to patrol the whole bay and although Dominica anchor outside the tries in the Caribbean, we cannot recommend that you patrolled area. stream. We will monitor the not afford the additional fuel given the current revenue is actively visiting all situation through the season but PAYS President, Jeff Frank, north. boats at the end of the day and asking them to move including tour guides, yacht members from the yacht tourism sector in Portsmouth, be on the safe side, I recommend entering the harbor on the left, following the greenbe on the safe side, I recommend in. There is a red-over-green buoy that marks thebuoys along the peninsula straight It is a dual channel marker. Apparently, some sailorsnortheast corner of Round Reef. of it. DON’T! It is marking the straight-in channel (leftassume you can go either side channel that actually is a 90-degree right turn downchannel) and also the WAPA for many years and I stillalong the reef going west. I have been using the channel are buoys everywhere. get the willies coming in. It can be very confusing, as there US$2.00 per foot per 20 moorings in Gallows Bay for transient yachts. They cost 244-9066. month and are well made. You can call DPNR at (340) ly shows the location of Round Reef. Space does not permit its reproduction here. ly shows the location of Round Guide to the Virgin Islands 2009-2011 Guide to the Virgin Islands 2009-2011 Christiansted Harbor, St. Croix. On average, one cruising yacht a month has beenChristiansted Harbor, St. Croix. Several have been lost, and all suffered damage. Justdriving up onto Round Reef. sailboats have gone hard aground. Please study thesince Thanksgiving 2009, two [ chart before entering the harbor! JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Canouan at6:20 Barbados toCanouanoperatingfourflightsperweek. flight 383leavesSanJuanonFridaysandSaturdaysat4:00 started operatingtwonon-stopflightsperweekfromSanJuan,PuertoRico.LIAT company, isnowmoreaccessiblethanever.OnNovember20,regionalairlineLIAT have madeanoceanpassageofatleast1,000milespoint-to-point. bers ofmorethan600nauticalservices,suppliers,provisioningcompanies,doctors, sailors’ needsinMartinique.Itincludesthenames,addressesandtelephonenum- bridge andharborfeesdues.[ Immigration toclearintheirvessel,crewandpassengerspaythenecessary immediately cometothewindowofSimpsonBayLagoonAuthority& structure ofthebridge. waterspouts offwhenpassingunderthebridge.Thispreventscorrosionofiron Jet skiownersandrentalsarerequestedtoinformusersthattheymustputtheir — 10:50 Canouan Island,homeoftheGrenadinesbaseTheMooringsyachtcharter LIAT FliestotheGrenadines For moreinfoontheOCCvisitwww.oceancruisingclub.org Ti’Ponton 6th EditionofSailor’sGuidetoMartiniqueNowAvailable Captains andownersofvessels,afterdockingtheirvesselsinthelagoon,should Continued frompreviouspage AM andarrivesSanJuanat1:10 isbilingual,FrenchandEnglish,offersthemostextensivedirectoryfor PM . LIATflight384departsCanouanonSaturdaysandSundaysat See relatedstoryonpage9. PM . InMarch2009,LIATbeganservicefrom tive applicantmustdocumentthey membership intheOCC,aprospec- er theymaycruise.Toqualifyfor afforded first-classassistancewherev- to ensurethatOCCmembersare at keymarinasworldwideinaneffort England, designatestheportofficers tional cruisingorganization,basedin the OceanCruisingClub.Theinterna- appointed HonoraryPortOfficerby Manager, DaleB.Westin,hasbeen Antonio, Jamaica Pajari [email protected] www.tiponton.com marine newslogonto island allyearround.Forthelatest can bepickedupallaroundthe coastal citiesinMartinique. provides tidalinformationformajor and muchmore. local restaurants,sightseeingspots Errol FlynnMarina’sGeneral OCC OfficerAppointedforPort For moreinformationcontactCarola Ti’Ponton isaFREEpublicationand PM andarriveson ] Ti’Ponton also they evolve colonizes theartworks, ers. Asmarinegrowth for snorkelersanddiv- provide newattractions Underwater sculptures —Continuedonnextpage water sculptureparkatMoliniereBay. when completewillformpartoftheworld’slargestunderwaterartmuseum. ond phaseisalsounderway.Thisincludesmorethan400life-sizefigurativeworks,which Dreams, ManonFireandTheGardenerofHope.Constructionthemonumentalsec- first threesculpturesweresubmergedinNovember,entitledTheArchiveofLost Works bythesameartist,JasondeCairesTaylor,formGrenada’spopularunder- The firstphaseofanewunderwaterprojectinCancun,Mexicoisnowcomplete. New UnderwaterSculpturesinMexico JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 of Bequia, Beyond the Islands we welcome new advertisers Compass The community-based project is part of a Tourism Development Project funded by Tourism Development Project project is part of a The community-based at (784) 495-0791. contact Ernst De Freitas For more information Good Cause School’s Good Fun for a Bequia Sunshine for School is a non-profit organization reports: The Bequia Sunshine Lisa Hunnicutt in 2010: “Walking on Sunshine” fun walk, January 3rd; Look for the following events donate items and volunteer your time. Monetary Please support these events, Camille Jacobs at (784) 457-3794 For more information contact Contributions Welcomed for Carriacou Education Fund to move north from their sum- Melodye Pompa reports: As cruising boats are starting For more information contact [email protected] Errata Bluewater Sailing In last month’s issue we referred readers to an ad for Grenada’s Welcome Aboard! In this issue of the European Union. Consultations with area residents had determined that improved residents had determined Union. Consultations with area the European buildingslivelihoods. The dock and park would be an asset to their yacht services the Cumberland the facility will be run by local construction team, and were built by a Authority. of the National Parks Organization with the assistance Valley Eco-Tourism and those solely on funds donated needs. The school operates children with special events, including one of Bequia’s most fun and inter- raised by various annual charity & Landlubbers’ Auction. The event will be held this active fundraisers: The Sailors’ Elizabeth on Sunday February 14th. Not only do we solicit year at The Salty Dog, Port gift certificates and items of interest before the donations of gently used items, participation on the day of the event, bidding on event, but we also encourage the items. These items and others are sorted throughout unique, funky and functional the auction and a jumble sale, while some remaining year for use in the book sales, donated to charity organizations in St. Vincent. clothes and shoes are further Tree (two or three per year); Sailors’ & Landlubbers’ Book Sales under the Almond Sale (including school crafts, book sale and bake Auction, February 14th; Jumble sale), March 20th. Sunshine School, Box 90BQ, Bequia, VC0400, St. donations can be sent to The or, as with material items, can be dropped off at the Vincent & the Grenadines, hours. Look for our Sunshine School cans at various school during regular school spare change, too! local businesses to drop your or visit www.bequiasunshineschool.org Children’s Education Fund will mer hideaways, please remember that the Carriacou clothing for adults and chil- gratefully accept any and all contributions: clean, used craft items; and, of course, dren; household goods; treasures of the bilge; handmade in July, directly pre- CASH. These items will be auctioned at our annual fundraising local needy children with ceding Carriacou Regatta Festival. Proceeds go to provide TA Marryshow Community school uniforms, textbooks, lunches, and scholarships to Club in Tyrrel Bay. College. Contributions can be left at the Carriacou Yacht the principals in the busi- School, but the ad did not appear in that issue. Apparently ness were busy welcoming a new baby — congratulations! section; Marigot Beach page 43; Jolly Harbour Marina of Antigua, Market Place page 16; and Woodstock Club of St. Lucia, page 24; Ocean Experts of St. Maarten, us! Boatbuilders of Antigua, page 9. Good to have you with It’s easier now to step ashore at scenic Cumberland Bay. The new dinghy dock and Recreational Park are at lower left in the inset photo SALLY ERDLE

KAY WILSON / INDIGO DIVE Continued from previous page Continued from EC Funds Shipping Study EC Funds Shipping Caribbean ever get a viable Eastern reports: Can we in the islands Norman Faria the completion of a 200,000-Euro could well be answered on That question the export materializes, it would enhance in part: “If it (the service) Said the release three months. The study is expected to take Bay, St. Vincent New Dinghy Dock at Cumberland they want is more and better dinghy docks, and the One of the things cruisers say development of tourism and recreational facilities at Cumberland Bay on the west development of tourism and recreational facilities at Cumberland the construction of a sturdy coast of St. Vincent was enhanced in November with access to the shore, where new one. This will allow yachting visitors in the bay easier It will also facilitate visits by before dinghies had to be hauled up onto the beach. Park which, when sailors to the newly developed Cumberland Beach Recreational and small shops. fully operational, will include a restaurant, laundry, showers sea transport system carrying both freight and passengers? system carrying both freight sea transport European (OECS) study funded by the Eastern Caribbean States Organisation of two main Bridgetown, Barbados office, to a release from the EU’s Union. According demand and good estimate of passenger study would be to get a outcomes of the a long period. would be sustainable over whether the shipping aspect to determine output and provide alternative passenger capabilities of the islands’ agricultural between OECS member countries, as well as explore routes which satisfy demand can satisfy adequate return to operators.” It added, possible pricing structures that concerns about regional food security, “Whereas cer- against the backdrop of rising of agricultural products, lack of shipping freight lines tain islands may have a surplus of produce.” does not facilitate the movement — JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 year wearebuildingajettyespeciallyfor ouryachtingfriends! welcome tocomevisitandenjoythefabulous viewsofPrinceRupertBay.Andthis right atthewater’sedge.Evenifyouare notwaterbabies,youarestillmorethan kel reservations,snorkelequipmentsalesandrentals,aEuropeancoffeeshop Prince RupertBayrightnexttoBigPapa’s,CabritsCafé&Diveoffersdiveandsnor- Portsmouth, DominicaasofNovember14th,2009.Situatedinthenorthend anti-corrosive productswithintheterritorialareasofTrinidad&Tobago. International Ltd.MGDuffisthemanufacturerandsupplierofZINGArange became theauthorizedagentsanddistributorforZINGAUK Houston, Texas. General MembershipwiththeAssociationofDivingContractorsInternationalInc Company bytheUSA-basedAmericanBureauofShipping(ABS),andholds marine engineeringcompanies. access servicestothelocalandCaribbean-basedoil,gas,petrochemicals surveys andinspections;remote-operatedvehicles;corrosionprevention;rope ing andunderwaterinspectionsrepair;surveyspositioning;in-watermarine Tobago toprovideunderwaterengineeringservices,whichincludecommercialdiv- now hasane-mailaddressdedicatedtoreceivingyournauticalquestions. [email protected], orseeadonpage21. to thosethatbookearly. of MaythroughJune,2010.Theyareofferingattractivepricesandspecialdiscounts BUSINESS BRIEFS and Marmaris,Turkeyaboardmotorvessel Newport, RhodeIslandandcrossingthepondtoSouthampton,UK;Toulon,France; transport service,isfeaturingaveryspecialvoyagefromSt.Thomas,USVIto ready foodproducts.” ucts inStockholm.Bequiawillnowbenefitfromawidechoiceofhighquality,chef- Grenadines. ItcomplimentsourSwedishoperationbecausewesellthesameprod- commented, “WeareveryhappytoexpandourbusinessinSt.Vincentandthe face”. FredrikSvanberg,owneroftheGourmetfoodgroup,wasatopeningand visiting yachtchefsgreateraccesstoprofessionalsalesrepresentatives“face cation fortheirwholesalebusiness,givingBequia’shotel/restaurant/barownersand baguettes, garlicsandwiches,Danishpastries,croissantsandmore. Burgers, frenchfries,potatocroquettes,calamari/onionrings,fresh-baked choose fromalightcafémenuincludingshrimp/vegetablespringrolls,Gourmet offers aniceplacetodrinkglassofwine,beer,fruitjuice,teaorcoffeeand vegetables, meat,fishandshrimpaswellcannedfood.Andacafé,italso Calliaqua, St.Vincent. deli caféatKingstown,St.Vincent’scruiseshipberthlastApril.Theflagshipstoreisin ner ofAdmiraltyBay.Thisistheirthirdoutlet,followingtheopeningasupermarket ed rightnexttotheGYEchandleryandneardinghydocksinnortheastcor- —Continuedonnextpage For [email protected] Helen Clarkereports:Wehavere-openedCabritsCafé&DiveinLagoon, Cabrits Café&DiveRe-OpensinDominica For moreinformationseeadonpage10. In thefieldofcorrosionprotectionservices,in2008RedsCaribbeanLimited Since 2007,RedsCaribbeanLimitedhasbeencertifiedasanIn-WaterSurvey Reds CaribbeanLimitedwasincorporatedin2006theRepublicofTrinidad& Underwater Engineering,CorrosionProtectionServices For moreinformationseeadonpage17. Contact [email protected]! Ciarla Deckerreports:SeaServicesShipchandleratFortdeFranceinMartinique Now: CyberHelp-DeskatSeaServices,Martinique For moreinformationcontactNadineMassalyinMartiniqueat+596596741507or Catalina Bujorreports:DockwiseYachtTransport,theonlyfloat-on/float-offyacht Early-Bird DiscountsatDockwiseYachtTransport For moreinformationseeadonpage44. Gourmet FoodLtdSVGalsoseestheoutletasanenhancedsourceofcommuni- The Bequiawholesalefoodoutletisalsoasupermarket,offeringhighqualityfrozen Gourmet FoodLtdSVGhasopenedanewlocationinBequia,convenientlylocat- New GourmetFoodOutletinBequia Super Servant4 , whichsailsfromtheend ,adivisionofMGDuff DECEMBER 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Daily on December 1st, the Simpson Bay on December 1st, the Simpson Daily Herald newspaper, Boyd said, “I think what we might see is a full-blown show rather newspaper, Boyd said, “I think Continued from previous page Continued from The Marina at Christophe Harbour will be located in what is presently the Great Salt “St. Kitts is on the yachting ‘flight path’ geographically, so once the marina is up The Marina at Christophe Harbour is located at 17° 14’ N and 62° 39’ W. Upon its For more information visit www.christopheharbour.com News from Antigua’s Woodstock Boatbuilders part of a group of Andrew Robinson reports: Woodstock Boatbuilders were that is growing rapidly. Marine Engineering is our newest department, but one now find it easier to navi- We also completely refreshed our website last year. You’ll For more information see ad on this page. New Marina: Christophe Harbour, St. Kitts marina and luxury residen- St. Kitts will soon be home to Christophe Harbour, a new For more information on the SMMTA visit www.smmta.com For more information on the by IGY Marinas in St. Maarten Dockside Management ‘Preferred’ of the leading ships‘ agents in the Caribbean, has Dockside Management, one [email protected] For more information contact Fees to Drop Simpson Bay Under New Authority, As reported in the St. Maarten been at loggerheads The island’s marine industry and megayacht owners have mandatory one-week “dou- It was announced in December that the controversial — Yacht Show Faces Changes St. Maarten Charter Jeff Boyd has (SMMTA) President Marine Trades Association Outgoing St. Maarten up to the in 2010, but it would be hoped there would be a show Boyd said he Pond, a 300-acre parcel that serves as the centerpiece of the 2,500-acre Christophe Harbour resort. Whitehouse Bay, located just outside the Great Salt Pond, is a well- protected yacht anchorage. and running, there will be no need to divert to Antigua on the way down from St. Maarten to Barbados,” believes Kate Spencer, who has resided in St. Kitts since 1978. Her husband, Philip, is a classic-yacht designer. Some sample cruising distanc- es from other popular destinations are: Antigua, 55 miles; St. Maarten, 65 miles; St. Barths, 55 miles; St. Thomas, 175 miles. completion, the marina will provide spacious berthing capacity and advantages including a protected entrance and safe inner harbour; 300 slips (with 50 to 60 slips accommodating vessels 85 feet to 400 feet); and a designated port-of-entry offer- ing streamlined Customs and Immigration services. Antiguan businesses that participated in the Monaco Boat Show last September. Antiguan businesses that participated in the Monaco and very positive feedback. The show was a great success with a good attendance of visitors. Woodstock The Antigua & Barbuda stand also received a large number Authority, Charter Yacht would like to thank the Ministry of Tourism, National Parks Meeting and those businesses that supported the stand. Westerbeke, suppliers of Recently we have become agents for Fischer Panda and head engineer recently world-class marine generators and engines. Woodstock’s completed a Fischer Panda training program. useful sites. Have a look at gate, jam-packed with information and with links to other woodstockboats.com and let us know what you think! Christophe Harbour’s debut tial community on the island’s southeastern peninsula. a horseshoe bay with two residential property offering, Sandy Bank Bay, is set along the bay will remain reefs and a natural sand bank. Existing as a marine sanctuary, views of the free of boat moorings so that sealife can flourish and panoramic Atlantic are protected. Herald be may be more of a trade show, which we feel would than just a charter show… It it brings trades and more activity to St. Maarten.” better for our members because like to see the date changed for the St. Maarten He added that he would also have conflicted with the Antigua Charter Yacht show; in recent years the dates show page 10). Show (see story on Antigua Island Global Yachting (IGY) to be a “preferred provider” signed an agreement with The Yacht Club at Isle de Sol and Simpson Bay at IGY’s marinas in St. Maarten: Dockside Management provides vessels with services Marina. Based on St. Maarten, visa assistance, courier/freight, provisioning, parts and including banking, clearance, repair and VIP services. (SLAC) is now officially part of St. Maarten Harbour Lagoon Authority Corporation rights along the shore and in Group of Companies. As a result, control of the water which paves the way for uni- the lagoon has been combined under one authority, form fees. especially the bridge fees with SLAC for more than a year now over various issues, with industry stake- that went into effect on January 1st, 2008 without consultation Trades Association, had holders. Industry insiders, including the St. Maarten Marine were causing the island warned that the fees and the way they were being applied a notable shift of yachts to lose yachting business to other islands. There also was investments made from the Dutch to the French side of St. Maarten, endangering on the Dutch side over the years. Lagoon would be dropped ble” fee for vessels entering and departing Simpson Bay effective this month. announced that as of this year, the Mediterranean Yacht Brokers Association (MYBA) Yacht Brokers Association as of this year, the Mediterranean announced that the show now Yacht Show. Ownership of own the St. Maarten Charter will no longer three years. involved in the show for St. Maarten. The MYBA was comes back to decide the degree the membership, to of directors, and to some SMMTA board new format for Discussion of a possible to them and to the island. value of the show island’s According to reports in the begin next month. the show will reportedly JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 ShowtheBestYet Antigua’s CharterYacht Congratulations toyouall.Whatagoodstarttheseason! ibly dedicatedmanagementteamofSarahSebastianandAfsanehFranklin. and co-boardmembersAnneMarieMartinJanettaMiller,alongwiththeincred- quite likealittleDragon! making thedwarfedJ-boatRanger(LOA136feet)puttinguphermainnearbylook mous space waslimitedthisweek,ledtooneofthefunniestsightsweek:enor- Follies VarietyShowforsomelighteveningentertainment. were crewparties,bands,doorprizesandfinallythe25thAnniversaryFincham’s held bythepoolatluxuriousboutiquehotelTheInnEnglishHarbour.There evening yachtviewing,therewasthemore-popular-than-everChef’sCompetition ous WelcomeDinnerParty,therewerewinetastingsandbrunches,wasan the historicCopper&LimberStoreinNelson’sDockyard.Therewasalsoaglamor- Evening Affairthereweredailyinformativemorningseminarswithfreshbreakfastin Charters andInternationalYachtCollection. of CamperandNicholsons,Edmiston,FraserYachts,Burgess,Nicholson’sYacht 250 feetlong.BannersandbuntingflewintheChristmastradewindsfromlikes es, andnotsmallyachtseither—55werebetween90200feeteightover all overtheworld.Themostexcitingthingthisyearwasnumberofnewlaunch- ter brokers,93exceptionalyachtsandnumeroussponsorsexhibitorscamefrom worked overcappuccinosandsmoothies.Two-hundred-and-fiftyprofessionalchar- tional buzzinthebarsandcafésasindustryinsiderscaughtuponnewsnet- up thechannel. the entranceofFalmouthandEnglishHarboursmadetheirgracefulprocession but thedocksseemedeerilyempty... Large numbersofyachtswereregisteredinthe48thAntiguaCharterYachtShow Eastern Caribbean–Internet: S/V Aspen affect theirlives,notleastofwhichistheinescapableweather.SteveSiguaw “Where arealltheboats?” The BoatShowisrunbytheAntiguaCharterYachtMeeting,chairedPaulDeeth Somelargeyachtsnotintheshow,anchoredoffFalmouthHarbourasberth Following asumptuousopeningonDecember7thattheAntiguaYachtClub It istheoldestboatshowinCaribbean,andyoucouldfeelitinterna- Until, ashappenseveryyear,asteadystreamofmagnificentyachtsappearedat http://hadar.cira.colostate.edu/ramsdis/online/RMTC_BAR_1km_vis.html Another radarweathersitetheCompass Crewlikesis http://manati.orbit.nesdis.noaa.gov/dataimages21/cur/zooms/WMBas20.png • RadarImageoftheEasternCaribbean • WindForecastsfromQuikScatforthe Caribbean • VolcanicAshAdvisory–MontserratActivity • WindandWaveForecaststhroughouttheCaribbean • NOAABuoyfortheEasternCaribbean • SailingWeatherForecastsfortheCaribbean • AtlanticGraphicTropicalWeatherOutlook • AtlanticTropicalWeatherDiscussion–WavesandITCZ theEasternCaribbean • CaribbeanOffshoreWatersForecast–WindandWavesfor Cruisers havetheirfavoritewebsitesforresearchinganumberoffactorsthat www.meteo.fr/temps/domtom/antilles/pack-public/animation/animMOSAIC2.html WWEATHER ONTHEWEB Mirabella V http://manati.orbit.nesdis.noaa.gov/quikscat/ www.ssd.noaa.gov/VAAC/messages.html www.windguru.cz/ www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=41040 www.passageweather.com www.nhc.noaa.gov/gtwo_atl.shtml www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIATWDAT.shtml www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml E sentthisusefullistofSelectedCaribbeanWeatherForecastsforthe A (thelargestsloopintheworld,witha292-footmast)atanchor, T H E

was thequestiononeveryone’slipsinearlyDecember. R by LucyTulloch

O N

T H E

W E B JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

GUY DEAN Steve , Dave Richardson of FREE Second Millennium, , Teri Rothbauer of ,the Pompas of Toucan I Alcheringa II WEATHER REPORTS and Nick Wardle of The Bahamas for information, which was correct Aspen , Bill Campbell of An in-depth voice report followed by faxes and SSTV, except Sundays. Unless severe weather threatens, this net is not conducted on Sundays. When there are George comes on approximately 0710 with a weather synopsis, then moves to 7086 and Thanks to William Mills of Since November 3, 2008 several radiofax charts produced by the National Hurricane Center which are broadcast from New Since November 3, 2008 several radiofax charts produced by * Frequencies (in kHz): A) NMN, Chesapeake, 4426, 6501, 8764, 13089, 17314. Sea B) NMG, New Orleans, 4316, 8502,12788. C) 4316, 8502, 12788, 17144.5 4369, 8788, 13110, 17362, 22804. Gulf of Mexico, Southwest North Atlantic, then Caribbean later. Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes Note 1: 25 minutes later. Caribbean Sea approximately Note 2: Note 3: Monday-Sunday Monday-Saturday • WWV has World Marine Storm Warnings (Voice) at 8 minutes after each hour, Monday-Saturday 68 • During hurricane activity, information can be found continuously on the 68 and Solar Flux information at 18 minutes after each hour on 2500, 5000, • Anyone, licensed or not, may legally operate on HAM frequencies in the event 10000, 15000, and 20000 AM. 72 VHF Hurricane Watch Net on 14325 USB/ham. VHF SELECTED CRUISERS’ VHF NETS 0800 of a life-threatening emergency. VHF 0730 Grenada Chaguaramas 0800 St. Martin/Maarten Porlamar English Harbour 0730 VHF 14 0900 Puerto La Cruz VHF 68/06 Monday-Saturday Daily 0745 VHF 72 Monday-Saturday 0600 0200 NMG Broadcast B Wefax* USB USB Wefax* B USB Voice Broadcast A Forecast USB USB NMG Wefax* Offshore B Voice 0200 0530 USB UTC 4060 Broadcast AST USB 0600 Telegraph 0930 Wefax* STATION & REPORT DESCRIPTION 1030 B 0630 Voice 1030 0630 NMG USB A Trinidad Emergency Net 9Z4CP (Eric) FREQ 1100 0700 Forecast Coconut Carib. Emergency & Weather Net TYPE USB 1100 3855 0700 Caribbean Weather (Chris) 1100 MODE 0800 0700 Broadcast Voice Caribbean Maritime Mobile Net 1110 0800 Wefax* 0710 LSB/ham Bahamas Weather Net Voice 1120 B 0720 3815 Offshore A Puerto Rico/VI Weather Net USB 1130 0730 Forecast C6AGG Carolyn Wardle Weather Net Voice 1200 NMG KP2G Caribbean Weather Net (George) 7250 LSB/ham 1200 3696 1130 7086 Voice 1230 Voice 0830 Broadcast Voice A 8137 Voice 1300 LSB/ham (Note 3) 1400 0900 Forecast Offshore LSB/ham Caribbean Weather (Chris) 1330 Voice LSB/ham (Note 1) 0930 Caribbean Sea (WLO) 1530 3930 USB (Note 2) Caribbean Weather (Chris) 1800 1730 Voice 1400 NMG 4003 1800 Offshore LSB/ham Caribbean Sea (WLO) Voice 2000 1600 2030 LSB/ham 2000 1630 Southbound II (Herb) 2130 2330 8104 Carib. Cocktail & Weather Net (George) 2235 7086 1835 0000 Voice 2000 Voice 12350 Caribbean Emergency & Weather Net 0000 USB (Note 2) Voice LSB/ham Caribbean Sea (WLO) 0330 3815 C USB (Note 2) Voice LSB/ham C Voice USB 12359 Voice Voice USB USB C Voice USB Siguaw of to the best of our knowledge as this issue of Compass went to press. Overstreet www.caribwx.com/ssb.html active Tropical systems in the Atlantic, Caribbean Weather (Chris) runs a Net at 2300 UTC / 1900 AST, on 8137, Voice, USB. For complete schedule and changes visit at 0730 gives the complete Caribbean forecast including rebroadcasting WEFX. Orleans are based on information from different model run times. A 36-hour wind/wave chart has been added to the New Orleans Orleans are based on information from different model run times. broadcast. For full details visit www.nhc.noaa.gov/radiofax_transmission_changes.shtml SELECTED CARIBBEAN SHORTWAVE SELECTED CARIBBEAN JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Soundings the yacht. potentially dangerousanchorages,curtailingtheirnight-timeactivitiesawayfrom ing theyachtandlockingdinghy,usingbarsinhatchescompanionways the potentialofcrime.Cruisersaretakingmeasurestoinsuretheirownsafety:lock- reports. Iattributethedecreaseintotalreportstoanumberoffactors: and physicalassault,haveincreaseddramaticallyasapercentageofthetotal years, alongwiththeso-calledpettycrimes,violentinvolvingweapons is ontheincrease,asapercentageoftotalcrimereported. does tellusthough,likethecanaryinmine,isthat ises oftheOECSSecretariatthreeyearsagotocreatesuchathing.Whatdata island). Atthistime,thereisnootherdatabaseofincidentreports,despitetheprom- from thisdataistohavewhatIcallyacht-days(howmanyyachtseachdayper anyone takethistobeascientificstudy:theonlywaywecanderiveusefulstatistics e-mails frommanyindividuals,andmypersonalobservations.Innowayshould Safety andSecurityNet(allarepostedonwww.safetyandsecuritynet.com),various be aware. tips andtoremindtheoldtimersofanysignificantchangeswhichweallshould we enteranothersailingseason,thepurposeistogivenewClassof2010some the currentsituationregardingcrimesagainstyachtsinEasternCaribbean.As for morethan12years,theeditorof Most reportstotheSecurityNetcomebye-mailfromawidevarietyofyachtsmen: incidents, butintelligentsailorstakethataspartofthedecisionwheretosail. naïve. Someofthatpublicityhasexaggeratedandsensationalizedthenumber are nowawareoftheissues,especiallycharterguests,whopreviouslywere,atbest, and allthosenewspaperswhopickedupthatstory,theCompass),morepeople THE CURRENTYACHT hre orWay Your Charter oa eot 2 1 79 65 20 43 91 31.7% 31 60 34.1% 77 21 56 27.3% 119 20 99 16.8% 121 105 16 13.2% % oftotal–seriouscrime assaults &robberies thefts &burglaries total reports SECURITY SITUATION • Becauseofconsiderableprintpublicityoverthepastthreeyears(e.g.in • YachtspeopleintheEasternCaribbeanare,formostpart,moreattunedto While thetotalnumberofreportshasdecreasedalmostannuallyinpastfive These commentsarebasedonthereportsthathavecomeintoCaribbean Because IhaveservedasNetControlleroftheCaribbeanSafetyandSecurity First thenumbers: * yeartodatethroughDecember14 eunhm,dtrie ocm akaanadagain... and again back come to determined home, Return hotels. great and volcano tropical spectacular with a Caribbean landscapes, the in Grenadines. scenery the pristine and Enjoy St.Vincent of habitat unspoiled the Sail S T .V , INCENT Cruising World ,Y OUNG , Yachting World I SLAND by MelodyePompa ,B ii w.icvrv.o,cl -8-5-22o mi [email protected] email or 1-784-456-6222 call www.discoversvg.com, Visit 0520 0720 2009ytd* 2008 2007 2006 2005 EQUIA Caribbean Compass , Yachting Monthly ,M USTIQUE otefns aln nteCaribbean. the in sailing finest the to serious , the ,C askedmetoaddress crimeagainstyachts ANOUAN Los AngelesTimes ,M AYREAU

,T The insurancefraudresponse,ontheotherhand,isjusttoobizarreforcomment! banker oraBritishconstructionworker—theincidenthadlittletodowithyachting. back tohisvillafollowingdinner.ThevictimcouldjustaseasilyhavebeenaSwiss last year,when,infact,hewasshotwhilechasingapursesnatcherduringwalk tices amongthemegayachtstoexplaindeathofanAustralianmegayachtcaptain drug habit.ThespindoctorsinAntiguawerequicktopointthefingeratprac- is moreapttobeontheperpetrator’sside:attemptgeteasycashsupporthis against yachtsareattemptstodefraudtheirinsurancecompanies.Thedrugscenario himself becauseofhisdealingswithandusedrugs,thatmostreportscrimes arrange theirplanstoattendsuchtrialsgivetestimony. victims arecharterguests,itisnottrueforcruisers,whomaybeverywillingtore- available foranytrials,iftheperpetratorsarearrested.Whilethismaybetrue that theireffortsarewastedbecausetheyachtvictimsleaveislandandnot solving crimesagainstyachts.Unfortunately,theattitudeofmanypoliceofficersis against theirowncitizens,andtheyarestretchedtoothintoputmucheffortinto law enforcementauthoritiesarehard-pressedtocontaintheincreaseincrime reputation oftheirfavoriteanchorage. is littlechanceoftheirpropertybeingrecovered,andtheydon’twanttodamagethe (e.g. theftsofdinghiesandoutboards);theybelieveit’snotworththeeffortthere down bysome30to40percentinthe2008-9seasonoverpreviousseason. Austrian, andlocalfolkshereintheislands. Americans, Canadians,British,Dutch,German,French,Swiss,Italian,Venezuelan, —Continuedonnextpage in service. obtaining andstaffingapatrolboatfortheRodneyBayarea;thatisnolonger the yachtsthemselves.MIASLinSt.Luciawasinstrumentalseveralyearsago as afunctionoftheirrevenuestream,notforaltruisticmotiveshavingtodowith their websitesandinbrochures,seemconcernedwithyachtingsecurityonly very good. goes. Fourincidentsclosedof63reportedisaclosurerateonlysixpercent—not guard officialsarepromptandcourteousintakingreportsbutthatisasfarit having beenmadeinconnectionwiththosecrimes.Inmostcases,policeandcoast over thepastfouryears,andyachtingcommunityisunawareofevenanyarrests responsible forthestringofassaultsandrobberiestakingplaceinChateaubelair jail. TheflipsideisthattheSt.Vincentauthoritieshavestillnotconvictedanyone trators inseveralcrimesonthoseislands,andthedefendantsareservingtime OBAGO The other two responses heard all too often are that the yachting victim brings it on The othertworesponsesheardalltoooftenarethattheyachtingvictimbringsiton The obviouspointhereisthatwemusttakestepstoprotectourselvesbecausethe • Moreandmorecruisersarejustnotreportingwhattheythinkofaspettycrimes • BasedonobservationsthroughouttheEasternCaribbean,yachtingtourismwas The variousmarinetradesassociations,whiletalkingaboutsecurityissueson On thepositiveside,policeinDominica,CarriacouandGrenadadidarrestperpe- C AYS h 2ilnsadcy fS.VnetadteGrenadines the and Vincent St. of cays and islands 32 The ,U NION I SLAND ,P ALM I LN AND SLAND P ETIT ht:www.insandoutsofsvg.com Photo: S T .V INCENT JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 Mustique Basil’s Bar DE REEF Bequia local fishing and speed boats, water water local fishing and speed boats, , (admission free) Publishing Ltd. Steel Pan Orchestra

:

PM : - Country & Western ELITE PM (admission free)

PM enter C YSATT, in response to an alleged list of six incidents within a year on the rhumb six incidents within a year to an alleged list of YSATT, in response and burglary, from incidents of theft boatyards are not exempt Marinas and associations nor the law enforcement agencies have Neither the marine trades Lastly, prior to visiting an anchorage, yachts should check the Security Net website yachts should check the Security Net website Lastly, prior to visiting an anchorage, The downside of having Be wary of believing every blog you read on the Internet. long list of safety tips accu- The websitewww.safetyandsecuritynet.com includes a use of the gun; concurrently, their press release describing the trial of two of the release describing the trial concurrently, their press use of the gun; given. the sentences perpetrators exaggerated than pointing gas drilling platform, rather Trinidad and the Hibiscus line between six was earlier rhumb line and one of the of the six were NOT on the out that four Coast Guard with the Trinidad & Tobago in question, called a meeting than the year listed. from the rash of incidents asking for protection and other individuals, several reports of these facilities. There are of the management despite the promises walk away, even so lock the boat when you so-called secure facilities, every year from rail have been reports of outboards locked to the stern to the showers. In fact, there no break-ins to locked boats in slips, so locking up is taken by thieves, as well as for a sneaky quiet thief to approach a marina slip from guarantee. It is fairly easy the water. speeding through various anchorages, such been able to curtail the watercraft party boats watercraft including jet skis, taxis, and resort launches. The Security Net is receiving an increasing number of of The Security Net is receiving an increasing number taxis, and resort launches. as to do with damage to yachts and dinghies, as well reports each year having and even several deaths. Yachtsmen should be very severe injuries to people they anchor and not take unnecessary risks, which aware of conditions where far dinghy, no matter how cool it looks, swimming too include standing up in the the and snorkeling except very close to shore out of from the yacht, and kayaking traffic lanes. the for the latest information. In many anchorages, www.safetyandsecuritynet.com type: for example, in Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, it is nearly crimes are consistently of a a with the dinghy left to drift away, tucked away on always theft of an outboard, the sunk. Anyone who does not lock their dinghy to remote beach, or deflated and a while in Tyrrel Bay is setting themselves up to be yacht, a dock or a tree on shore taxis. These outboards are target, and that includes the fishermen and the water the change in police jurisdic- said to be headed to the St. Vincent Grenadines, where incidents in Dominica are tion prevents follow-up. On the other hand, those few computers, watches, cell boardings to steal articles that can easily be sold: cameras, phones, but never outboards. his brother can post, claim- such an extensive information tool is that everyone and information, various press ing to have the final word on the facts. Without specific of cruising, including in media have published wild speculations about the dangers ago. There are now MORE their dire warnings incidents that occurred ten or 20 years than prior to the birth of the rumors among the cruising community about crime Security Net — change is not always progress! existence. It is not difficult to mulated throughout the nearly 14 years of the Net’s of a crime against yachts. take the necessary steps to avoid becoming the victim in the life we choose There are, of course, no guarantees, but there are no guarantees prevent petty to serious prob- to lead. There are, however, smart practices which can a habit, so too should LOCK lems. Like brushing your teeth in the morning becomes IT OR LOSE IT! [email protected] COUNTRY RELATIVES : - world-famous 13-piece • echnology ADMIRALTY TRANSPORT ADMIRALTY AFTERNOON BEACH JAM PM T

PM equia MUSTIQUE BLUES FESTIVAL B January 28 - January 31, 2010 January 28 - January www.bequiatourism.com/bequiamusicfest www.bequiatourism.com/bequiamusicfest MOUNT GAY SURPRISE PARTY - CLASH OF THE BANDS! STEEL PAN CELEBRATION : TRADITIONAL STRINGBAND

Phone: (784) 458 3286 BEQUIA EXPRESS For more info on events see our last-minute flyer! For From Barbados Sun 31st January - De Reef, Lower Bay from 1 Caribbean Blues, Blues, Rock & Jazz Jam From Bequia: Thurs 28th January - Frangipani Hotel from 8.30 Thurs 28th January - Frangipani Hotel Bay at 8.00 Fri 29th January - De Reef, Lower Blues Night with artistes from the DANA GILLESPIE AND THE LONDON BLUES BAND Saturday 30th January - - Bequia Beach Hotel, from 1 - De Reef, Lower Bay at 8.00 Barbados’ hottest new band - NEXCYX! TOBY ARMSTRONG • MOUNT GAY BLUES BAND PAPA WINNIE • TRN BAND & GUESTS AMANDA GOODING, KYRON BAPTISTE From St. Vincent: MAC’S HOTEL PIZZERIA KEEGAN’S UIA MUSIC FEST UIA An invaluable itinerary-planning resource for sailors in An invaluable itinerary-planning resource for sailors in the Caribbean is the Security Net’s regularly updated website, www.safetyandsecuritynet.com BEACH RESORT GINGERBREAD COUNTRY

BEQ RADIO

TH The Bequia Tourism Association presents: The Bequia Tourism Association CROSS (Friday & Saturday, Tickets available at: available at: Tickets (De Reef, EC$25 door) JULIE'S De Reef, Lower Bay) Phone: (784) 456 2217 Bequia Tourism Office Bequia Tourism Phone: (784) 458 3286 Quik-Print, St. Vincent GRENADINES

SINGLE TICKET EC$60 7 SUNDAY TICKET EC$20 SUNDAY (Fri or Sat, EC$70 at the door) 2-NIGHT TICKET EC$99 Continued from previous page Continued from The Dominica Marine Association, as all the others, is interested in preserving the The Dominica Marine Association, as all the others, is Dominica, via PAYS (Portsmouth Area Yacht Security), provides a patrol boat for Security), provides a PAYS (Portsmouth Area Yacht Dominica, via Their HELP billboard provides a phone number and a VHF channel for yachts to number and a VHF channel provides a phone Their HELP billboard KINGSVILLE OUTHOUSE GRAPHICS INC GUESTHOUSE THE SALTY DOG L’AUBERGE DES reputation of Dominica, and asked me last spring to delete all the old crime reports reputation of Dominica, and asked me last spring to delete Dominica a bad name”. This from the Security Net website because “they are giving Rupert Bay, I was asked past summer, following the two boarding/assaults in Prince one person and downplay the to change the descriptions to minimize the injuries to avoid: the bad guys just hide in the shadows until the patrol passes and then go on avoid: the bad guys just hide in the shadows until the is equipped with communica- with their nefarious business. Only if the patrol boat those potential incidents be tions gear and can respond quickly to calls for help can short-circuited. the north end of Prince Rupert Bay, if you don’t mind the loud music two nights a don’t mind the loud music of Prince Rupert Bay, if you the north end are in the good all the moorings (which find room to anchor among week and can patrol boat, as rock). Unfortunately, this rather than in grass or anchoring spots, is easy to others which are implemented, St. Lucia boat and any well as the late call for help: the phone number does not work from a Digicel cell phone (we tried it work from a Digicel cell phone phone number does not call for help: the responds to the law enforcement agency we needed help) and no ourselves when VHF call. — JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 —Continuedonnextpage exact boatandfoundoutitwasforsale. chartered inCroatia,andrecentlyPeterthis year off.JohnandIgrewupsailingdinghies.Wehad various circumstanceswehadtheopportunityfora Dean, andhissiblingsZoë,age6,Tyler,4. Helen andJohn,hisgrandfatherPeter,Uncle Jesse thencrossedtheAtlanticwithhisparents, alent of“HappyBirthday”intheirownlanguages. start; alltheotherARCkidscameandsangequiv- birthday inLasPalmasthreedaysbeforetheARC

Bavaria 46 children’s clubeachmorning,supervisedbyARCstaff. kids wentferal,”oneparentnoted)andtherewasa the start,therewasadedicatedfamilypontoon(“The and inthewater.InmarinaatLasPalmasbefore members enjoyfunandgamestogetheronthebeach Day wheretheARCyoungstersandSLYCjunior Bay, theSt.LuciaYachtClubhostsanannualKids’ the eventtobefamilyfriendly.AfterarrivalinRodney “family” boats.Theycarriedatotalof34children. ocean races,abouttenpercentof2009’sfleetwere the crew.AsistypicalforARC,andunlikemost declares “cruiser!”isthepresenceofsmallchildrenin their racingcounterparts,oneundeniabletraitthat selves continuetoevolveintosomethingmoreakin Rally forCruisers.Andwhilecruisingboatsthem- tion grabbing,theARCisstillemphaticallyAtlantic Volvo 60 rated thefirsttwoyachtstocrossfinishline: days atsea,only16minutesandfivesecondssepa- course distanceof2,700nauticalmilesandalmost12 course, exciting.InthiseditionoftheARC,aftera ciation with Lucia TouristBoardandRolnautic,isruninasso- Canaria, thePortAuthorityofLasPalmas,St. ARC2009 wassponsoredbytheTouristBoardofGran the ARCisnoworganizedbyWorldCruisingClub. week ofDecember7th. boat fleetarrivedatRodneyBay,St.Luciaduringthe on November22nd,2009,andthebulkof212- spirit offriendlyfunremainsstrong. Ocean RacingClub,buttheARC’soriginalamateur Divisions racingundertheauspicesofRoyal Speed soonenteredthepicture,withIRCRacing — ratherthanspeedasitsmainconsiderations. ny forliveaboardcruisers,withenjoymentandsafety began 24yearsagoasanAtlanticcrossing-in-compa- hundreds ofyachtsvoyagetotheCaribbean.TheARC Adam adds,“Weneverconsiderednottakingthem.” for suchalongtimeinsmallspace,”saysLeonie. for Cruisers2009.“It’sspecialbeingwiththechildren Lucia afewhoursbefore,aspartoftheAtlanticRally crewmembers RosaandMartin,hadarrivedinSt. also includingtheboys’mother,Leonie,andadult cockpit. Thealuminum-hulledVeliger477,withacrew three, andPieter,one-and-a-half,clamberaroundthe Marina andAdamKoklaughsashissonsMees,age Dutch yacht leave theminthebackyardwithabigbowloffood!”The were goingtodowiththekids—asifmaybewewould people askedthestrangestquestionsaboutwhatwe Rodney Bay,St.Lucia Helen remarks,“Ithappenedsuddenly—thanksto “When For youngAustraliansailorJesseDransfieldofthe The ARCorganizershavemadeaconsistenteffortfor But whiletheracingdivisionsarepopularandatten- The OpenandRacingDivisions’competitionsare,of Originated bycruisingyachtsmanJimmyCornell, ARC2009 departedLasPalmasintheCanaryIslands Every yearasthecruisingseasoninEuropeends, Big One Nika Yachting World Elena , ahighlightwascelebratinghisninth wesaidwerejoiningtheARC, andtheWally80 issterntothedockatRodneyBay magazine.

Bagheera

Tel: (758)4520299 . ATLANTIC RALLYFORCRUISERS2009 Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope

Fruit Man Bay’s famous meet Rodney were thrilledto yacht the Australian and Tylerfrom sea, Zoë,Jesse of weeksat After acouple in ARC2009 Inset: RodneyBayMarinarolledouttheredcarpetonitsnewdocksforcrewsfrom32nationswhosailed family fromNorwayontheX-452 Main photo:LikeeachnewARCarrival,withinmomentsofcompletingtheirtransatlanticpassage,theBjonness Johnson Hardware Ltd. FFAMILY AFFAIR! Nika FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE

A Fax:(758)4520311 IT’S (STILL) A IIT’S (STILL)A M T I ’ Odin S L iswelcomedbySt.LuciaTouristBoardandWorldCruisingstaff

Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners Y (

e-mail:[email protected] S A T F by SallyErdle I F L A L I ) Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint R

A !

ALL PHOTOS: SALLY ERDLE SALLY PHOTOS: ALL JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 . Lani research

. MiniMaxi for a hilarious log Compass’s , from Germany, was next , the Sigma 41 skippered by A Small Nest Diamonds are Forever Linocat 46

Nightlife from Sweden was presented with the Jimmy The younger ARC crews were recognized, too. Best Of the ARC2009’s camaraderie, World Cruising’s Of the ARC2009’s camaraderie, 25th edition next year,“We’re looking forward to the At the gala Awards Ceremony on December 19th, For full results visit WorldARC, a circumnavigation in company, departs Thanks to the St. Lucia Tourist Board, Palm Haven trip to St. Lucia so enjoyable. And special thanks to all the interviewed ARC crews for their warm hospitality. Family Performance on corrected time went to the Family Performance on corrected time went to the Chapdelaine family from France on Waldbrenner aboard on stage as the youngest participant — at just 18 months. Many of the ARC boats submitted blogs to the ARC website during the crossing, and a prize was awarded to the Stellamans family of Belgium on the Beneteau Oceanis the season cruising the islands with various friends the islands with various the season cruising then out in Grenada for the summer, aboard, haul January. A Canal the following transit the Panama a boat from helped a friend deliver decade ago, Anders has chartered since then he Trinidad to Guadeloupe; and St. and Sunsail out of Grenada with The Moorings says he is a bit of paradise.” Anders Maarten: “This 30 years Annette, to circumnavigate asked his wife, true it was the dream began to come ago, and when A big part is the ARC. “Don’t hesitate! her idea to join the people you meet.” a good bunch of partici- Andrew Bishop says, “It was that they gelled very well. pants this year in the sense in the two-week There was a very good atmosphere then there were steady build-up to the start. And crossing, and breakages winds for the majority of the sort of thing you’d expect were generally small and the so most people were on a long passage, like chafing, in St. Lucia — with rum happy.” The warm welcome to each arriving boat, punch and fresh fruit presented serenade — followed by accompanied by a steel-pan the good vibes. Everybody yet more parties, added to for ARC2009 on December likes a fast passage, and in for the “early arrivals” 9th, there were 130 boats last year’s 29. Welcome Party, compared to Lucia,” says Andrew. “Forwhich will be our 21st in St more than 200 boats perthe last ten years, we’ve had achievement. Because it’syear — quite a remarkable an international event, it continues to grow interna- tionally. Although there has been a drop in entries from the UK, others have filled the fleet. There is a continued trend in growth from entries from former Eastern Bloc countries such as Croatia, Russia and Poland.” Overall Winner of the Cruising Division, the crew of Amoress 2 Cornell Trophy, as well as the Gran Canaria Trophy for winning Class E. submitted as through the eyes of Ed the Iguana; for submitted as through the eyes of Ed the Iguana; for the past ten years Ed the plastic toy iguana has sailed the ARC aboard a boat with children in the crew. Underscoring the tradition of the importance of the family boats in the ARC, every child in ARC2009 was invited on stage to receive a prize. www.worldcruising.com/arc/results.aspx St. Lucia on January 6th. Crossing the Atlantic from west to east at the end of the Caribbean season, ARC Europe starts from both Tortola (BVI) and from Florida, calling at Bermuda and then cruising the Azores, before finishing in Portugal and northern Europe. The start date is May 6th. The transatlantic ARC2010 will depart on November 21st. Hotel, IGY Rodney Bay Marina and the World Cruising Club staff in St. Lucia for making Tom Sperry, won the RORC Racing Division. The Arch Tom Sperry, won the RORC Racing Division. The Arch Marez Trophy for the crew that had best embraced the shoreside activities of ARC2009 went to the all-female Girls for Sail crew on , by ting from Ithaka Les Elena A Small Nest , celebrating a happy crossing: ‘the key was , a Swedish-built Farr 56, intends to spend As Keith noted, not all of the fellow feeling saturating Jan Sigtsema, crew on the Jongert 2700M Anders Lagerberg, who has owned boats since 1959 “In busy lives back in the UK we don’t have enough back in the UK we don’t have “In busy lives ARC provides real companionship, Keith adds, “The As Keith noted not all of the fellow feeling satura the ARC has to do with children. grew up in Curaçao from age two to 16, “so coming to the Caribbean is like coming home.” After returning to Europe for the holidays, he’ll rejoin the boat to do the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. and sees the ARC as “a little bit organized and a lot of fun!” says one of the main reasons he joined was the opportunity to meet fellow sailors. Anders, sailing Victory II ing. You see that real things matter.” Arthur agrees: that real things matter.” Arthur ing. You see things in life young folks away from bad “Sailing moves good things.” and toward natural, two solid observes. “We’ve all just had time,” Steve do it. But not If you can do the ARC, weeks together. are highs any sailing adventure. There just the ARC, never meet an ocean, but you’ll and lows in crossing regrets it.” anybody who like a family. There are so a real brotherhood, almost with so many different lev- many nationalities, people find at the end of the day els of experience, but you we’re all the same.” Sepke, Ward and Flor Stellamans of Belgium Below: Keith, Jack, Matt, Steve and Arthur on Papillons it’s all family’ Above: Boat buddies. The Dutch Kok family — Leonie, Pieter, Adam and Mees — are visited aboard the crew Les Papillons’ Les Papillons — cabins is a playroom, and there are a cabins is a playroom, and Elena’s ARC crewmembers Rosa and Martin departed back home to Australia. back home to Continued from previous page Continued from Although sailing in Cruising Division, Matt grins at his bother and says, “Sailing across the Jack interjects, “Except for… what do you call Jack interjects, “Except for… what do you call One of Elena’s Another notable family participating in ARC2009 The previously mentioned Kok family is on a planned mentioned Kok family is on The previously provided by the boys’ Leonie stowed lots of goodies “I was encouraged when I started reading blogs of when I started reading “I was encouraged consisted of males from three generations of an consisted of males from three generations of an English family. Steve Bennett, 42, was skipper, cook and navigator, and his crew comprised his father, Arthur; his father-in-law, Keith; his sister’s husband, Shane; and his sons Matt, 17, and Jack, 8. Jack was a pier-head jumper. When his mother brought him to Las Palmas to say good-bye, he asked if he could go along, “to take time off school and prove to myself that I I could do without TV. Now it seems strange how lived.” Jack says he wants to continue sailing. Atlantic is a big achievement. It’s definitely life chang- them? Squalls.” them? Squalls.” was aboard the Beneteau 57 crew was competitive. To stay in the best winds they sailed 3,352 miles – 500 miles more than a similar boat that came in behind them — and went for boat speed, sailing more than 1,000 miles total under spinnaker. “The boat really looked after us,” Steve said. Why this boat? “The value for money was fantastic. I looked at five or six other boats over 50 feet. The little things that go wrong you can live with, but it behaves like an adult.” Most problems were the result of chafe: the main hal- yard snapped and “lots” of sheets broke. Steve says, “The key was it’s all family, although very few of us had sailed together before. It was fun; it was very relaxed…” three-year circumnavigation. The toddlers already had The toddlers three-year circumnavigation. the adults are back home and when sailing experience boys,” Adam ship, “they are different busy working know to stay out of the says; they seem to instinctively the Atlantic crossing, they way. A day and a half into says, “They had no got over being seasick. Leonie amazing how they devel- problem sleeping, and it was says, “Pieter could walk oped their sea legs.” Adam boat was heeled at 30 around onboard when the he had to relearn how to degrees, but after we arrived walk on the dock.” out every couple of days grandparents, and doled them They also enjoyed fishing to keep the fun factor high. 5th, the family cel- and saw two whales. On December ebrated the Dutch tradition of Sinterklaas; the kids set out their shoes in the evening, hoping that in the morning they would contain gifts. To their delight, Sinterklaas (Martin in costume) actually appeared in the companionway. Sinterklaas is believed to visit Holland by steamboat, from Spain, and five minutes after he “came aboard” the boys spotted their first freighter — which Mees promptly identified as Sinterklaas’s boat! the boat in St. Lucia and the Koks will continue west- ward. Leonie says that other families wondering about bluewater sailing with kids “should do it. The time togeth- er as a family is so important; the children have their parents around all the time. And for us an important part of the ARC was to meet other boats with kids.” boats with children aboard. The stars aligned: we aboard. The stars boats with children took the kids packed up the house, bought the boat, will sail and here we are!” The family out of school… Nika pool for the cockpit, beanbag and an inflatable wading restricted when not below- to which the children are activities with them decks. Underway, Rosa organized “They basically do the such as baking. Adam says, play, fight, enjoy life. The same things as at home: on land, never on the scariest moments have been really strict.” boat. Rules on the boat are — JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 es. IntheRallyClassI, ing anopenoceanpassageof1,500miles. that recognizedtheirachievementofsafelycomplet- Cruising ClassboatswerepresentedawardsinTortola safety, weatherandcommunicationbenefits.All to participateinthefunrace.Allreceivedsame way toenjoyacruiseincompany,ortheRallyClass and ketchesinthisyear’sfleet. and aschoonerjoinedthefleetofmonohullsloops The boatsaveraged47.5feetinlength.Fourmultihulls percent oftheboatswereownedbyveteranRalliers. Germany, theUK,andNewZealand.Morethan40 from 23USstates,threeCanadianprovinces, ed inthisyear’srally. were oneofeightboatswithchildrenthatparticipat- Mitchell (age11)andtwinsGillianClare9) NEWS REGATTA sage times. many veteranskippersrecording“personalbest”pas- Nanny CayResort&Marinasixtotendayslaterwith tions, andgalasocialevents,arrivedatthe after aweekofpreparatorybriefings,safetyinspec- Rally Association,leftHamptononNovember2nd in sixdays,ninehoursand15minutes. Middletown, Maryland,whocompletedthepassage Sundeer 60ownedbyBillandRosemaryThomasof Handicap Honors.Firsttofinishwas Kilgour familyfromToronto,Canada,tookOverall sailed onasingleporttackfortheentirepassage. Tortola, BVI.Theboatshuggedtherhumblineand Caribbean 1500fleetfromHampton,Virginiato 2009 propelledthe54sailboatsin20thAnniversary then he’dlightlytouchdown…’ Bojangles: ‘Hecouldjumpsohigh,and Tel: 8095235858Visit:marinazarpar.com ContactMARINAZARPARVHFChannel 5email:[email protected] The RallyFleetwasdividedintofourhandicapclass- The fleetsailedintwodivisions:theCruisingClass,a The 2009Caribbean1500fleetincludedparticipants Colin andKathleenKilgouron The Caribbean1500Rally,managedbytheCruising Bojangles IV A weekofstrongnortheastwindsinearlyNovember 20th Caribbean1500 Bojangles IV Zar-Par Marina , aGulfstar50ketchownedbythe TakesTopHonorsin Ma FREEDominicanRepublic CruisingGuideat: Za Clover III , aSwan56,skippered Bojangles IV Crazy Horse with , a Endless Summer’slargecat.Courseswere20-minute great viewingforthoseonthebeachoraboard The LandingsmarinawiththesixJstiedalongside. Friday night’sbriefingandcocktailpartywasheldat BMWs onshow,thisregattawasafive-starevent. teams stayinginluxuryapartmentsandtwobeautiful Lucia, sixteamssailed18racesovertheweekend. teams fromBarbados,Grenada,TrinidadandSt. November 6ththrough8th,2009 the thirdBMWJ/24InvitationalChampionshipfrom Switlik, OCENS,ICOM,andWorldCruisingClub. Marina, LLC,WestMarine, ing Davenport&Company,NannyCayResortand supported byanumberofleadingcompanies,includ- sailor andsailingeventorganizerSteveBlack,iswidely nightly parties. BVI TouristBoardandRoadTownWholesalehosted Nanny CayResortandMarinainTortola,wherethe received coldchampagneandawarmwelcomeat broadcast viasatellitesixtimeseachday.AllRalliers wireless transpondersoneachyacht,positionswere monitored theprogressofboatsinrally.With who participatedintheCaribbean15001999. Trophy, usinghand-madeluresloanedtothembykids Discovery Elizabeth, with11-year-oldtwinsWesleyandClare)on Germany on Christoph andDagmarHartungfromWeinheim, Best PerformancebyaDouble-HandedCrewwentto with theirchildrenHannahandHayden.Theawardfor his wife,Christine,willcruisetheCaribbeanthiswinter two VanAlstinessailedwithrolesreversed.Peterand 1500 withhisfather,PeterSr.,asskipper.Thisyear,the Skipper PeterVanAlstinesailedinthe1990Caribbean emblematic ofthe“SpiritCaribbean1500.” World, owned byLennyStatile,andBrianKimDuff’s Rally ClassIV,followedby Class III.OverallHandicapWinner McNamara, ontheirCatalina470, Diana Quinlan,placedfirst.CharlieandJenny Delivery by DavidFraizer,ledthepack.InRallyClassII, St. Lucia Regional J/24teamsracedoffTheLandingsin • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24 hoursecurity • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings Racing startedSaturdaymorningjustoffshore— Hosted intheTheLandings’privatemarinawith Michael Greenreports:St.LuciaYachtClubhosted Trinis DominateSt.Lucia’sBMWJ/24Championship For moreinformationvisitwww.carib1500.com The Cruising Rally Association, founded by veteran solo The CruisingRallyAssociation,foundedbyveteransolo More than15,000websitevisitorsfrom59countries Stolen Hour thesoleschoonerinfleet. , aTaswell58ownedbyveteransBilland , aBowman57,earnedtheevent’sFishing receivedtheevent’sTempestAward, Flomaida II . TheBrousefamily(Kirkand Blue WaterSailingMagazine Amarone

in RodneyBay.With Bojangles IV Lady www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com , aStevens50 , toppedRally led Special One , knots setthesceneforfinaltwomatchesof championship, losingjustonematch. Tunnicliffe haddominatedthefirstthreedaysof Vandemoer arebothmembersofUSSTAG.Team (Charleston, SouthCarolina)inthefinals.Manardand Bower (Rochester,NewYork),andAliceManard O’Bryan Vandemoer(RedwoodCity,California),Liz Tunnicliffe (Plantation,Florida),andhercrewofMolly Elizabeth Kratzig(MiamiBeach,Florida). Island), ElizabethHall(ChevyChase,Maryland)and joined bycrewChafeeEmory(ofNewport,Rhode San Francisco,California)onthefinalday.Tullochwas AlphaGraphics (USSTAG)memberGennyTulloch(of held outsidethe50states. Cowpet Bay.Itisthefirsttimenationaleventwas Yacht ClubandsailedNovember12ththrough15thin St. Thomas,USVIthisyear,hostedbytheThomas Match RacingChampionship(USWMRC)washeldin there, andwe’llhaveafullreportinnextmonth’sissue! Beneteau 45F5, resenting theSt.MaartenYachtClubandracinghis ance intheevent,SirRobert“Bobby”Velasquez,rep- to Statia,andStatiaSt.Maarten.Inhisfirstappear- Maarten toAnguilla,AnguillaSt.Martin,Martin November 11ththrough17th,includedracesfromSt. information visithttp://stluciayachtclub.com Association forinformationinthisreport.Formore the St.LuciaYachtClub’syouthsailingprogram. boat, Peter &Companyforprizes,andtothecommittee Motors, alongwithTheLandings,St.LuciaDistillersand ing 2010CACGamesinPuertoRico. all inSt.Lucia,showinggreatpromisefortheupcom- places intheBarbadosNationalsandnowafirstover- two clashesintheJ/24class,achievingfirstandthird place overall. Fosberg’s St.Luciateamwasthreepointsbackinthird teams, finishingsecondwith35points,andNick Yearwood’s GrenadateamfoughtofftheSt.Lucia ond placesawT&Tfinishwith21pointsoverall.Robbie clinch victoriesinfiveofthesixraces;addingasec- Team Trinidad&Tobagosailedclearofthefieldto and Grenada. team, Barbados,thetwoSt.Lucianteams points separatingStephenBushe’sTrinidad&Tobago Results werecloseamongthetopfive,withonlythree more races,withclearskiesandtenknotsofbreeze. windward-leewards. Afterlunchthesailorssailedsix Governor’s Trophy —Continuedonnextpage robin matches. gone 3-0againstTeamTullochintheirfirstthreeround Tulloch faceoffinthefinals.TeamTunnicliffehad Louisinana), inthreematchestoforceaTunnicliffe- USSTAG member,KatiePilley-Lovell(NewOrleans, Diego, California)inthreematches.Tullochbested nals, TunnicliffedefeatedAnnieGardner-Nelson(San semifinals andforthefourmatchfinals.Insemifi- EastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingoand 7miles • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinaforclearance Shifty conditionsandabreezebarelyreachingsix Tulloch upsetfellowUSSTAGteammate,Anna Light windsworkedtothebenefitofUSSailingTeam Carol Bareutherreports:TheUSSailingWomen’s Match Championship Team TullochThrillsatUSWomen’s Compass The FifthAnnualGoldenRockRegatta,held in 5thGoldenRockRegatta Bobby VelasquezOverallWinner Thanks alsototheTrinidad&TobagoSailing Thanks gotothemainsponsor,BMWPrestige Trinidad &Tobagoteamshavenowwonthelast Sunday dawnedwithmoreperfectsailingbreezes. II Restless correspondent Stéphane Legendre was correspondentStéphaneLegendrewas The DominicanRepublic's . Allmoneyraisedbythiseventgoesto newest marinacatering L’esperance, 18.25.50N 69.36.67W

cruising yachtsmen by StatiaGovernorHydenGittens. to theneedsof was awardedthe JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

Diva won Cruising Class, with won Cruising Class, second and Robin Tattersall’s second and Robin Shamrock V Rascal TTSA’s Budget Marine Dinghy Ranking Race TTSA’s Budget Sailing Association in Trinidad & Tobago A gutsy performance in the Optimist Beginner Class On the following day, the first safety-boat operator The TTSA Sailing School Administrator thanked the For more information contact Hedge Shuter at (868) Tom Mullen on Tom Mullen on A new National Sailing Scheme supports training for the T&T sailors of tomorrow Chaguaramas, Trinidad saw exciting dinghy racing on Chaguaramas, Trinidad saw Marine Dinghy Ranking November 21st at the Budget Class competed in four Race. The Optimist Dinghy afternoon races in good winds and choppy seas. Abigail Affoo showed good speed downwind to take the first race with this term’s ranking leader, Myles Kaufmann, coming a close second. Three competitors succumbed to the conditions and did not finish the race. Race Two saw some close battles as the sailors became accustomed to the chop; Derek Poon Tip took the honours with Myles Kaufmann again in sec- ond place. In Race Three, Kaufmann took first with Kellyann Arrindell second. The fourth and final race proved an exciting contest between Helena Coombs and Derek Poon Tip. Coombs led the race up until the final mark, but Poon Tip managed to catch up and take the honours over the finish line. by Geovannie Peters, of the sailing programme in the town of Vessigny, saw him win all four races. Vessigny’s Caribbean Champions in the 420 Class, Daniel Briggs and Dekife Charles, won all four races without contest. Wesley Scott took the honours from Mark Peters in the Laser Radial class and Andrew Affoo came home uncontested in the Laser Standard class. course in a series started, under the new National Sailing Scheme training programme. Twelve potential dinghy instructors (eight from Chaguaramas and four from Vessigny) learned rescue techniques for sailing dinghies, using the sailing school safety boat fleet. Steve Jackson and Sebastian Godsmark, experienced sailing instructors from the UK, will be assisting with training and coaching local students for two months. Sport Company of Trinidad & Tobago (SPORTT) for help with funding and continuing support of efforts to gain international success through the new National Sailing Scheme. 634-1216 or [email protected] —Continued on next page third. A raucous prizegiving was held at Peg Legs’ prizegiving was held at Peg third. A raucous Legs’ Dick Schoonover as MC. Peg Restaurant with the event. Nanny Cay Marina sponsored Restaurant and being over early; it’s never a good sign when you have it’s never a good sign when being over early; to restart. to get back to the line to use a spinnaker Adrian Sinton’s

DEAN BARNES

Triple , a Luxury Girl missed sec- Jurakan on corrected time. , a Kelsal 47, was Jurakan, was second in Racing — she “rattled through” Triple Jack Triple Jack Pipe Dream Triple Jack’s finally claimed overall victory on the 40th anni- In conditions seemingly made for this trimaran, she At Last: Triple Jack Wins Round Tortola Race After copping numerous line honours in the Round The 2009 US Women’s Match Racing Championship Match Racing Championship The 2009 US Women’s Because of the light winds and wind direction, the Peter Haycraft’s Jack versary of the Peg Legs’ Round Tortola Race held November 21st, 2009. circumnavigated Tortola in three hours, 33 minutes and 27 seconds, beating closest rival Tortola Race since her arrival in the BVI in 1997, Melges 32, by 42 minutes across the line. With the wind blowing from the south-southeast (unheard of in the event’s 40-year history, according to race veteran Peter Haycraft) the fleet was predominantly able to sail directly to Beef Island and, once on the north side, reach directly to Soper’s Hole. Once there, however, fickle winds played havoc with some competitors’ fin- ish times but not second place, while fellow Crucian sailors, Challis Diaz while fellow Crucian sailors, second place, Twenty- “Genna” Keller finished third. and Genevieve in the regatta. eight sailors competed by St. Thomas Radiology is sponsored locally Annual St. also sponsored the 4th Associates, which Women’s Regatta & Tennis Thomas Radiology Creek by Rolex Watch USA, Dry Tournament, and Wind and Sail Proud. Vineyard, Predict in three painless tacks. Nanny Cay-sponsored able to carry full main, spinnaker and half-furled genoa almost the entire length of her northern run along Tortola, allowing her to put time between her and the rest of the fleet. Class, 14 minutes behind Last year’s winner, Dave West’s ond place by one second. Guy Eldridge’s lost a whopping 22 minutes after missing her recall for Continued from previous page Continued from St. Croix’s Sydney Jones and Krista Siino finished in The 4th annual St. Thomas Radiology Women’s “This is the first time the USWMRC has been sailed The win for Tulloch is especially sweet after losing to In the finals, Tulloch won the first and third match. won the first and third In the finals, Tulloch Run concurrently with the US Women’s Match Championships in St. Thomas was the Radiology Women’s Regatta, in which young local sailors Agustina Barbuto and Nikki Barnes, above, trounced the competition Regatta and Tennis Tournament was held concurrent- ly with the USWMRC. St. Thomas’ Nikki Barnes and St. John’s Agustina Barbuto won the regatta portion of the event with a flawless string of first place finishes over eight races. “After every race we went over what we did wrong, figured out how to do it right and put this into practice for the next race,” says Barnes, a 10th grade student at Antilles School. “Even though we won each race, we were always on the move and forming new strategies to account for the ever changing conditions.” outside of the US,” says regatta director, Ruth Miller, “and we’re excited to have hosted this event and this level of sailors.” Tunnicliffe in the finals of last year’s USWMRC. “It feels great to win this championship,” Tulloch says. “We enjoy racing in St. Thomas. The conditions are great.” lot of fun,” says Tulloch. “We’re about 30 pounds light- er than Anna’s team and I think that helped us in the light winds today.” Tunnicliffe won the second match, leaving her no the second match, leaving Tunnicliffe won to stay in win the fourth match in order choice but to from the were only three boat lengths the game. They for the teams were on a beam reach finish and both came teams both jibed, and Tulloch finish. The two held it with better boat speed and out of the gybe time and a finish line. “We had a good straight to the — JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 designed 38-metresloop least twooftheirfleettakingpart.TheBriand- Superyacht CupAntiguaandareplanningtohaveat tem willbeused,withtworacesplannedforthe29th. on the28th,29thand30th.The“BucketRating”sys- four dayswithregistrationonJanuary27thandracing Whetter, EventOrganizer.Theeventwillbeheldover strong fleetandexcellentracing,”saysPatrick pate andweareconfidentthattherewillbeareally the endofJanuary. pants formakingthisyear’sFlotillaasuccess. boat), Concept andBlueWaters—aswellto — Digicel,Heineken,ColumbianEmeralds,Travel Bay Marina.Specialthanksgotothisyear’ssponsors assistance fromtheSt.LuciaTouristBoardandRodney tion werepresented. the DigicelSteelPanBand.Certificatesofparticipa- Heineken, snackssponsoredbyH2O,andmusic mentary drinksfromtheSaintLuciaTouristBoardand pants proceededtoH2ORestaurantenjoycompli- Industries AssociationofSt.Lucia(MIASL). Prowse; andBobHathawayrepresentingtheMarine General ManagerAdamFosterandhisfiancéeAlex (SLYC) CommodoreStephenKing;RodneyBayMarina Director ofTourismLewisLouis;St.LuciaYachtClub Lucia’s MinisterofTourism,HonorableAllenChastanet; Bernard Johnson’sBertram54, the Flotilla’ssponsors.Themotheryacht, and twomoreboatsjoinedtheeventonday. A totalof46power-andsailboatsregisteredinadvance Lucia, andisdesignedtoraisetheevent’sprofilelocally. Cruisers (ARC)startsintheCanaryIslands,boundforSt. start theevent. Brig November 22nd,boundforRodneyBayMarina.The Flotilla sailedofffromCastriesHarbour,St.Luciaon — flotilla’s mothership, private sectorsshowedtheirARCspiritaboardthe Say ‘ARC!’KeyplayersfromSt.Lucia’spublicand Perini Naviwillbereturningtosponsorthe “More than15yachtshavesaidtheyplantopartici- The SuperyachtCupinAntiguahasnewdatesat The SuperyachtCupAntiguaisThisMonth For moreinformationvisithttp://stluciayachtclub.com The FlotillaisorganizedbySLYCandMIASL,with After arrivalintheRodneyBayMarina,allpartici- Aboard manyoftheyachtswererepresentatives The FlotillaisheldonthedayAtlanticRallyfor Danielle DeRouckreports:ThefourthannualARC 48 TurnOutforARCFlotilla2009 Continued frompreviouspage Unicorn Merlin Too joined thefleetandfiredcannonsto (photoboat)andtoallthepartici- GreyGhost P2 , builtbyPerini,hascon- Grey Ghost , hostedSt. KIKA (press days (afterthecompany’sstandardfivefreedays)for percent discountonhaul/launch,chockingandlay- check: SpiceIslandMarineServicesisofferingaten- ning tohaveapre-Festivalcleanormaintenance Independence Celebrations. spectacular weekendofracingwiththeisland’s with traditionaldishesonoffer.Newplanspairthis for thechildren,artsandcraftsonsale,foodstalls Woburn, plusliveentertainment,gamesandactivities Gouyave, GrandMal,PetiteMartinique,Sauteursand between thesailingcommunitiesofCarriacou, Beach. Therewillbecompetitiononthewater Digicel WorkBoatRegattacomestoGrandAnse when thecrowd-pullingGrenadaSailingFestival Festival venuehoststheMondaynight’sparty. Dodgy Dockisstillonthecalendartoo:popular Presentation GalaDinner.TrueBlueBayResort’s Gay RedCapPartyandFestivalFarewellPrize selection ofafter-raceparties,includingtheMount be” forFinishLineLimes,happyhours,andanew & NicholsonsPortLouisMarinawillbe“theplaceto Grenadian style.ThenewlookVictoryBaratCamper Ocean Triangle.Therewillalsobefourdaysofparties longer courses,includinganextendedSouthCoast Festival afurther30percentdiscountondockspace. the marinaisofferingallyachtstakingpartin reduced by20percentonpreviousrates,andthen Louis RacingSeries.Overall,priceshavebeen count ondockingtoallparticipantsinthe2010Port sizes. Camper&NicholsonsMarinasisofferingadis- which hassome160slipsavailableforyachtsofall “home port”,Camper&NicholsonsPortLouisMarina, the PortLouisRacingSerieswillbeabletodockata pating sailors. more interestingandchallengingracingforallpartici- the sailingovertwoweekends,Festivalwillprovide but twoweekendsofgreatsailingaction.Bystaging Festival PhotoGalleryalsointhestore. ture ofthepresentationfeaturedinaGrenadaSailing engraved plaqueunderthechronometer,andapic- each yearthewinner’snamewillbeaddedtoan the BudgetMarineGrenadaStoreinTrueBlue,and chronometer, whichwillbepermanentlydisplayedin essarily gototheonewhoisoverfinishlinefirst.” ambition inourmanyfemalesailors,andwillnotnec- acknowledge andencouragesailingtalent,spirit The aimoftheBudgetMarinePerpetualTrophyisto pleased tobringthistheGrenadaSailingFestival. recognition oftalentedfemalesailors,andwearevery has longbeenagreatsupporterofthepromotionand Budget MarineGrenada,explained,“Thecompany tional yachtracing.NicholasGeorge,Managerof event’s PortLouisRacingSeries,fourdaysofinterna- most outstandingfemalesailorparticipatinginthe which runsfromJanuary29thtoFebruary2nd. Perpetual Trophyatthe2010GrenadaSailingFestival, the GrenadaSailingFestival,willpresentanew silver sponsorshipofTheSuperyachtCupAntigua. event. WayfarerMarinefromMaineUSAistakingup Cup, willalsocontinuetheirsponsorshipoftheAntigua Pantaenius, along-termsupportofTheSuperyacht firmed participation.Leadingyachtinsurancebroker There ismoregoodnewsforownersorskippersplan- Sailing actioncontinuesonFebruary6thand7th, Racing willstartandfinishfromthisbase,withnew, For thesecondyearrunning,yachtstakingpartin The 2010GrenadaSailingFestivalwilloffernotone, The Trophyisabeautifullycraftedwall-mounted The BudgetMarineTrophywillbeawardedtothe Budget MarineGrenada,along-standingsponsorof Grenada SailingFestival-andmore! New TrophyforFemaleSailorsat For moreinformationvisitwww.thesuperyachtcup.com J-Walker, Cayennita left: Last year’sCSASpinnaker2startinSt.Croix.From —Continuedonnextpage their livesregardlessofabilitytopay. of St.Croixresidents,ensuringadignifiedclosureto raised willgotosupporttheend-of-lifemedicalneeds coverage atall.Onehundredpercentofthefunds population isunder-insuredorhasnohealthinsurance pice careonSt.Croix.Overone-thirdoftheCroix volunteer efforttoraisefundsandawarenessforhos- ashore attheyachtclub. in theprotectedwatersofTeagueBay,withlunch One-design IC-24sandRhodes19sareinvitedtorace including thechallengingChristianstedtownrace. promises atleastonedayofpoint-to-pointracing, and multihullstoraceintheBuckIslandChannel, invites alllocalandvisitingliveaboards,cruisingboats the overallwinnergetshisorherweightinsportsdrink. breakfast andlunches,includedintheentryfee, ular demand,toimprovetheirskills.Thekidsalsoget divisions afterattendingtheOptiClinic,backbypop- 30 eight-to15-year-oldswillcompeteinfourOptimist the USandCanada. include upto30otherHospiceRegattawinnersfrom Rochester, NewYorknextJune.Thecompetitionwill Regattas NationalChampionshiptobeheldin weight inCruzanRumandaninvitationtotheHospice services forallwhoneeditonSt.Croix(compassion).” are sailingforaworthwhilecause,supportinghospice warm-up forboatsandtheircrews(competition),we Martin, regattadirector.“Inadditiontobeingagreat Compassion’ istheregatta’smotto,”saysJulieSan ing, February20thand21st. rum partyfortheadults,followedbylotsofgreatrac- with anOptiClinicfortheyoungstersandafabulous Hospice RegattaissettostartoffonFebruary19th see adonpage5. week.com andwww.sailingcarriacou.com websites www.grenadasailingfestival.com,www.sail- come southandsailwithus!Formoredetailscheck is partoftheSouthernCaribbeanRegattaCircuit— spiceisland marine.com Contact JustinEvansatSpiceIslandMarinejustin@ for themonthofJanuaryandisnon-transferable. yachts participatingintheFestival.Theofferisgood The St.CroixYachtClubHospiceRegattaisanall- In additiontoOptiandCSAracers,theregatta In St.Croix,racingisfortheentirefamily.Asmanyas The winningCSASpinnaker-1skipperwillgethis/her “‘Inspired byCompetition~Enhancedwith Ellen Sanperereports:TheSt.CroixYachtClub Competition andCompassioninSt.CroixEvent For moreinformationontheGrenadaSailingFestival The GrenadaSailingFestivalPortLouisRacingSeries AtlanticRaider,Rushin’Rowlette,GloryDaze, and

Magnificent7 ROB JONES ROB JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 Horizon Horizon Region .com will be back in 2010 to defend shattered the course record by more Peil embarked on his sports career as a swimmer on his sports career as a swimmer Peil embarked St. Thomas sailing at age seven at the Barnes began has sent a team to every The VIOC, founded in 1966, For more information Yacht Regatta Third Annual Grenada Classic Grenada Classic Fred Thomas reports: The 2010 All courses will be off Grenada’s southeastern coast; After each day’s racing, there will be time to enjoy Register early and get a break on fees. For more information visit Challenge the Grenada Round-The-Island Record! Roger Spronk reports: At the 2009 Grenada Round- Chartered by John Burnie for Claude Thelier, In addition to top-quality sailing competition, the with the St. Croix Dolphins Swim Team at age eight. He Dolphins Swim Team at with the St. Croix in his first tri- in 2007, competing became a triathlete first in his on St. Croix and finishing athlon, the Try-A-Tri out of a recently, Peil placed first age division. Most 2009 St. Croix triathletes in the pack of 73 international Sprint Triathlon. dinghy until competed in the Optimist Yacht Club. She second- her accomplishments included age 15, where National best Girl at the 2006 US Optimist North American Girl at Championships in Florida, Top Championships in the 2007 Optimist North American out of 255 competitors Mexico, and a placing of 35th in Turkey. at the 2008 Optimist World Championships the two-man International Barnes is currently skippering Barbuto from St. John. 420 dinghy with crew Agustina Pan American and Central American and Caribbean 1966, with the exception of Olympic competition since in Moscow, winning its the boycotted 1980 Olympics Seoul Olympics. The first Olympic medal at the 1988 VIOC represents 22 sports federations. visit www.virginislandsolympics.com been moved forward to tie Yacht Regatta dates have to Grenada Challenge in with plans for a Virgin Islands Grenada to race. The Race for yachts coming to main event will start on March 4th with the skippers’ briefing, yacht registration and cocktail party held at Bel Air Plantation, St. David’s Harbour, followed by three days of racing. the first race will start and finish from St David’s Harbour. On the Saturday the race will start off St. David’s Harbour and end at Le Phare Bleu Marina & Resort, where boats can dock for the night. The final race will be to True Blue Bay Resort, where boats can also dock. Water taxis will be available for those at anchor. the famous Grenadian hospitality, with great parties, food and drink, along with local and international bands performing each night. The awards dinner and party will be at True Blue Bay Resort. www.grenadaclassicregatta.gd the-Island Race (GRIR), the trimaran Guadeloupe than an hour, crossing the finish line with an elapsed time of three hours, 54 minutes and two seconds. This record poses an exciting challenge and the Grenada South Coast Yacht Club has responded by creating a prestigious prize for any vessel that breaks it, upping the stakes for the 2010 GRIR! Region Guadeloupe her title and attempt to improve their 2009 time. At present, the yacht holds several other records, includ- ing fastest times around St. Martin, St. Bart’s, Guadeloupe and Martinique. 2010 GRIR weekend from March 12th through 14th will bring a wide range of entertainment to Grenada’s Grand Anse Beach. High points of the weekend will include A Taste of Grenada food festival, the youth sailing exhibition, and the ever-popular Crazy Craft Bathtub Derby. —Continued on next page The Camp took place from December 8th to 12, If you missed the South Grenada Sailing Regatta last If you missed the South Grenada on page 20. For more information see ad for Singapore USVI’s Peil and Barnes Selected (VIOC) select- The Virgin Islands Olympic Committee Accomplished dinghy sailor Nikki Barnes of St. Thomas was chosen by the Virgin Islands Olympic Committee to attend a special event of the Singapore 2010 Youth Olympic Games 2009 and was organized by Singapore’s Ministry of Education in partnership with the Singapore Sports School and the Singapore Youth Olympic Games Organizing Committee. It is a special event of the Singapore 2010 Youth Olympic Games. The 15- to 17-year-old athletes from around the world who par- ticipated in the Camp had the opportunity to partici- pate in a wide variety of cultural and educational activities in anticipation of the inaugural Youth Olympic Games (YOG). The YOG will be held in Singapore from August 14th to 26th. co-founder of the SGR, explained that the Regatta the SGR, explained that the co-founder of experi- how to enhance the Committee discussed decided to and spectators, and ence for participants The Junior courses and add a third race. shorten some and will be held on the Saturday, Dinghy Sailing family and for prize giving, relaxation, Sunday will be fun Pirates’ attraction for families is the fun. The main and Sunday. place on the Saturday Trail, which takes fee — only change is the registration One significant US$50 per vessel. find out what all the buzz year, take the opportunity to is about! and 11th grader at ed William “Will” Peil, a triathlete and Nikole “Nikki” Country Day School on St. Croix, at Antilles School on Barnes, a sailor and 10th grader Singapore 2010 St. Thomas, to attend the first Friendship Camp. Richard

Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS Since 1984 Since

Continued from previous page Continued from Jana Caniga, owner of Le Phare Bleu Marina and Damon Du Bois, Marketing & Sales Manager for A special reception was held on November 27th, For more information see ad on page 15. For more information see ad Launched South Grenada Regatta 2010 brings revenue to The thriving yachting industry Some might say, the most compassionate part of the Some might say, the most compassionate Acknowledging the challenges of US entry require- the challenges of US entry Acknowledging As of November 2009, Hospice Regattas netted 2009, Hospice Regattas As of November

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

Westerhall Estate Ltd, is pleased Westerhall will be sup- porting the event for a second year, using the oppor- tunity to promote Westerhall Plantation Rum. The SGR Committee would like to thank all their sponsors and supporters, especially Westerhall Estate Limited, Netherlands Insurance, Real Value Supermarket and Le Phare Bleu Marina & Boutique Hotel. Strachan, Chairman of the Grenada Board of Tourism, Strachan, Chairman of the Grenada Board of Tourism, said he is encouraged by so many sponsors from the last Regatta who are still on board; some new and sig- nificant sponsors have also been secured. Grenada’s Tourism Board Chairman, Richard Strachan, is encouraged by strong sponsorship for the second South Grenada Regatta, coming next month 2009, to announce the dates of the second edition: February 26th through 28th. At the launch, Grenada. Wanting to celebrate the yachting commu- Grenada. Wanting to celebrate from other islands to nity and also attract more yachts & Boutique Hotel held Grenada, Le Phare Bleu Marina the first South Grenada Regatta in February 2009. It was a huge success. regatta is the “enter now, pay later” provision! Food regatta is the “enter now, pay all weekend, and and entertainment will be available party and regatta, San to better plan a memorable a class and to register Martin asks skippers to pick she says, “No payment is online. “Please enter early,” there are no penalties if due until February 19th, and for any reason.” That said, you are unable to show up in February, competing for St. Croix offers great sailing Crucian hospitality: a worthy cause, and its famous their plans now! racers are encouraged to make ments, Customs and Border Patrol officers will be at and Border Patrol officers ments, Customs arriving on Friday to welcome visitors the yacht club in Teague is plenty of anchoring room by boat. There registration, clearance Bay, making for a one-stop and party experience. more than US$1million for hospice care in their com- for hospice care in more than US$1million by the non-profit sponsorship, provided munities. Fiscal (3) tax- offers donors 501(c) St. Croix Foundation, levels. options at several deductible sponsorship — JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, - HurricaneMoorings - Minimarket,CarRental,Laundry - Fuel&Gasoline - Showers,Lounge,Pool,Restaurants,Bar Webcam, Wi-Fi - 230/110V (50/60Hz), Water, - Customs&Immigration and15draft - 60slipsforboatsupto120feet Marina & Yachtclub Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 races a JOIN ANEXCITING WEEKENDWITHThree WWW.SOUTHGRENADAREGATTA.COM E-mail: [email protected] (FREE BERTHING FOR RACING BOATS) WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL WITHOUT IT LEAVE PORT long West Indies. Le Phare Bleu Marina SOUTH GRENADA (range limitedbythehills) VHFCh16&68 AND that‘s not all! the southcoast ofgrenada DON’T REGATTa 2010 26. -28.Feb ... CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY Petite CalivignyBay, St.George‘s, Grenada W.I., POS12°00‘11N /61°43‘29W — parties ateachport,withZoukmusicand Les SaintesbeforereturningtoGosier.TheRoundGuadelouperaceoffersnightly includes legstoSaint-LouisinMarieGalante,St.FrançoisorPortLouis,Deshaiesand ing sailingeventsof2010! events thatcelebrateGrenadianculture. continue theGRIR’straditionofpromotingsailingexcellencewhilealsoproviding and 2008.ButBarbadosboat Lucians havebeenthedominantforceatthisregatta,winningin2005,2006,2007 be thehomeofitsBigEventeveryyear. Caribbean J/24Counciljustonemeetingtodecidethatitwantedthisregatta well-organized event,socompetitiveandmuchfun,thatittooktheSouthern Kudos totheBequiaSailingClub’sRegattaOrganizingCommitteeforrunninga Caribbean J/24Champion”inadditiontobeingBequia’soverallwinner. potential 20teamsvyingforthehonorofbeingcrownedfirst-ever“Southern significant measure.Lastyear’sturnoutof13J/24smightbeexceededbya to beanotherrecord-breakingeventandtheJ/24Classhopescontributein yachts racedaroundtheislandlastyear,andorganizersforeseeanincreasein2010. dates areexpectedtoattractmoreboatsthantheformerMaydid.Forty Guadeloupe archipelagoanditspeopleculture. results anddetailsofupcomingevents. than wecanpublishthismonth!Seenextmonth’s regatta thatisdefinitelynottobemissed. fleets, willbecrewedbysomeexperiencedsailorsaswell. not least,darkhorsesSt.VincentandDominica,whohavejuststartedtheirown legendary MikeGreentoreturnBequiain2010,willbeoutforrevenge.Lastbut Lucians, whovirtuallyownedthisclassforsolong,andwho,itisrumored,expect spot inBequia2009,willbelookingfortheirfirstbigoverseasvictory,whilethe boat Championships —haveeveryintentionoftakinghomethegoodies.Grenadian and arecenttasteofthehighestlevelcompetitionfrom2009World Bajans too—asdefendingBequiachampions,withthelargestfleetinregion Grenada SailingFestival,willhavetheireyesonthisprestigiousaccolade.The Championship crown. see aline-upofeagercontendersforthisnewlymintedSouthernCaribbean The multi-legged2010RoundGuadeloupeRacestartsatthetownofGosierand Get AroundGuadeloupe For moreinformationseeadonpage6. With braggingrightsonthetable,GRIRpromisestobeoneofmostexcit- TheGrenadaSouthCoastYachtCluband2010RaceCommitteeareworkingto Since BequiafirstofferedtheJ/24stheirownclassateventin2005,St. Russell Corriereports: Bequia Regatta2010:BigJ/24ClassNews For moreinformationseeadonpage7. This year’seditionwillbeheldfromthe1stto5thofApril.Thenew“highseason” Sailboat racingintheCaribbeanisboomingandwe’vegotmoreRegattaNews Too MuchFun! For moreinformationvisitwww.begos.com/easterregatta With theJ/24sjoiningfourotherhighlycompetitiveclassesinBequia,thisisone The Trinidadians,whoin2009wontheBarbadosOpen,St.LuciaOpenand Continued frompreviouspage dayatthePool-BarRestaurant - breakfast,lunchanddinnerservedall lighthouseship - finediningonaunique,historical Restaurants Die Hard, whichtookhonorsattheSouthGrenadaRegattaandthirdoverall

The BequiaEasterRegatta,April1stthrough5th,promises

Esperanza upsettheapplecartin2009,and2010will ti punch Compass — agreatwaytodiscoverthe [email protected] www.lepharebleu.com phone 4734442400 forlotsmoreregatta VHF CH16 JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 MARMARIS TOULON TOULON parrots. Heading east you parrots. Heading east you ) MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] • • E-mail: [email protected] • SOUTHAMPTON Amazona arausiaca ( ST. THOMAS ST. COMPETITIVE RATES

SAFEST WAY TO SHIP SAFEST WAY UNIQUE DESTINATIONS • MAY/JUNE, 2010 VOYAGES MAY/JUNE, •

NEWPORT NEWPORT • FEBRUARY/MARCH, 2010 VOYAGES FEBRUARY/MARCH, : Tel. +1 401 439 6377 +1 401 439 : Tel. : Tel. +596 596 741 507 +596 596 : Tel. RELIABLE, FREQUENT SCHEDULES

PREMIER SERVICE FOR ANY YACHT PREMIER SERVICE

• ) and Jacquot : Tel. +1 954 525 8707 +1 954 525 : Tel. • FREEPORT FREEPORT DYT USA PORT EVERGLADES PORT DYT Newport WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM • 1 888 SHIP DYT WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM DYT Martinique Portsmouth’s southern border is the Indian River. Locals offer boat rides up the River. Locals offer boat southern border is the Indian Portsmouth’s days, you get bored, you can always rent a car and If, after those several packed Portsmouth, often unjustly overlooked, offers a mix of an authentic Caribbean overlooked, offers a mix of an authentic Caribbean Portsmouth, often unjustly to access by boat than by air and Portsmouth offers Dominica is probably easier ST. THOMAS ST. Amazona imperalis are Toucarie Bay, which has little-known reefs for diving, and Capuchin, another reefs for diving, and Capuchin, Bay, which has little-known are Toucarie hiking trail. The Capuchin- Penville and the start of the picturesque historical site with sweep- agricultural Caribbean village from Penville, an road back to Portsmouth crater with you through an active volcano Marie-Galante, takes ing views towards in this part of are never far from view springs. The French islands bubbling sulphur the island. Kubuli, the local bar at the end serving river to the jungle beautiful mangrove-framed home to Ross further south is Picard, version of rum punch. A little beer, and its fare, you can find after some Western school. For those hankering University medical a smoothies to pizza, several fast-food chains, as well as everything from bagels and several supermarkets. The area’s hotels are also most- wider selection of food in the the beach. ly located in this area, along the the south is the Syndicate Trail where you can see venture farther afield. To to catch a glimpse of the indigenous and rare Sisserrou Syndicate waterfall and hope ( can cross the Kalinago territory, owned by the “Carib Indians”, the Kalinago people. owned by the “Carib Indians”, the Kalinago people. can cross the Kalinago territory, their history and lifestyle. They have a model village showcasing pleasure and comforts one wants to find on vacation. experience along with all the nightlife mid-week and on weekends as well as some There are several clubs offering ice And did I mention the best “cookies and cream” authentic dining experiences. at Burrough Square? cream I’ve ever had, to be found the refuel, restock and enjoy the best of what a perfect place to drop anchor, to that the uniqueness of Dominica’s natural wonders Caribbean has to offer. Add unmissable stop on your Caribbean excursion. and culture and you have an Top left: Purple Turtle Beach Above: The Cabrits, seen from Michael Douglas Boulevard Right: The mouth of the Indian River at Portsmouth’s southern edge ase E ,

at

d

in M by Ella Rychlewski Yacht at Rest Yacht

Portsmouth, a Portsmouth,

PHotos by Onne van der Wal der van Onne by PHotos DESTINATIONS of activities within close Portsmouth has the advantage of offering a wide variety In town, you can find most necessities in Joe’s and Best Buy supermarkets as well In town, you can find most necessities in Joe’s and Best Planned on a grid system, the town of Portsmouth is centered on Bay Street and Planned on a grid system, the town of Portsmouth is Most tourists and some cruisers head straight for Roseau and overlook the north Most tourists and some cruisers head straight for Roseau Portsmouth was briefly the capital of Dominica before the capital was relocated to Portsmouth was briefly the capital of Dominica before Most people will tell you that Portsmouth’s claim to fame is being the island of fame is being the island of Most people will tell you that Portsmouth’s claim to Caribbean Jewel Caribbean

range. To the north, the beautiful Purple Turtle Beach is just outside Portsmouth, range. To the north, the beautiful Purple Turtle Beach beach or pick up a mooring as are several other beaches. Most yachts anchor off this National Park, which has there. The cruise ship berth is located in nearby Cabrits 18th century British garrison many short trails to explore as well as Fort Shirley, an island, still heading north, that is being reconstructed. Further up that side of the as in a few smaller food shops. On market days (Fridays and Saturdays), the market as in a few smaller food shops. On market days (Fridays as meat and fish. Along the provides a variety of fresh fruit and vegetables, as well a couple of internet cafés and main street you will also find a few clothing stores, you can purchase snack food most of the snackettes. These are small shacks where as well as Creole plates throughout the day: fried chicken, bakes and sandwiches, and includes meat or at lunchtime. The Creole plate is the staple diet of Dominica (e.g. rice, spaghetti, “fig” pie, fish, vegetables, beans and at least two types of carbs places to rest, have lunch macaroni-and-cheese or potato salad). These are ideal will stop in for lunch. Don’t and to watch and listen to Dominicans, many of whom all, than fresh juice (orange, forget your local juice; there is nothing better, after with fruit picked from a tree grapefruit, tamarind, guava and the list goes on) made that same morning. Burrough Square. Its charm lies in the fact that it is not touristy; it is a working town Burrough Square. Its charm lies in the fact that it is not and shop. The area’s only where Dominicans from the area come to do to business come to town to run their hospital and fire station are also in Portsmouth. Locals other, exchanging greetings. errands and walk down the street hailing each — the people make Exuberant laughing, expansive gestures, animated arguments this place come alive. — rich in history, culture, food and natural beauty. Portsmouth is an ideal base to — rich in history, culture, food and natural beauty. Portsmouth discover a different part of Dominica. Roseau. The topography of the area, marshes and volcanic elevations, did not allow Roseau. The topography of the area, marshes and volcanic District, Portsmouth town is for expansion. Now the bustling center of the Northern Bay, which was a port of call located on the shore of a natural harbor, Prince Rupert and cruise ships. for Columbus in 1504 and today attracts yachts, ferries Dominica’s second largest city. So start most of the travel descriptions… only to travel descriptions… only to Dominica’s second largest city. So start most of the melting pot and natural jewel end a few lines later. However, this is to do this social an injustice.

JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22

Doyle’s guidethathadfirstintroducedmetoKit. where CustomsandImmigrationawaitedus.Itwas tinue uptheEssequiboRivertotownofBartica another boat, hard inTrinidad,nottomentioncrewmateCadey,and couple aboard,PamandJim,whoseboatwasonthe that theremightbe.So,hereIwaswithanAustralian tive tofourandahalfmonthsinTrinidad.Itappeared Guyana Guide toTrinidadandTobago,plusBarbados retirement home.I’dpurchasedChrisDoyle’s island ofGuernseyin ter of2008,beforeIretiredandlefttheEnglishChannel for CustomsandImmigrationtocomeoutyou.” when youare15minutesoutofBarticaandI’llarrange on ourwayuptoplaceatHurakabra.Givemeacall of KitNascimentogrinningupfromhisspeedboat.“We’re 2nd, 2009.Venturingondeck,Ifoundthecheerfulface Charlotteville, Tobago,thepreviousafternoon,October Roeden Rust,flyingtheyellowflag,havingarrivedfrom Guyanese Coastguardhailing.Wewereanchoredoff 22% more (sea)horses 22% more The planningforthistriphadstartedduringthewin- I becamemoreawakeandthoughtthatitmustbethe I horsepower inthesamepackage. available M200 andM235provides than22%additional more thePerkins M225Ti isdesignedtoreplace Sabre Perkins The everything haseasyaccessforstress-freemaintenance. With Perkins’ outstandingmarinization,excesshosesandbeltshavebeen engineeredawayand with longerlifeandbetterefficiency. charger givesbetterperformanceatlowerrpms. An integralplate-typeoilcoolercombinesfewerhoses The gear-drivenfreshwaterpumphasalongerlifeandlesstogowrongwhilethewaste gateturbo TBO) andquieteroperation. versus thecompetition’s 3300rpmorhigher, theM225Ti willhavealongerlife(minimum12,000hour By comparison,ournearestcompetitiontakesthatoutofa4literengine.Runningatlow 2500rpm This largecapacity6literenginecomesinacompactpackageandonlytakesout225hp.

DESTINATIONS Hello, Troutbridge!” became awareofavoiceshouting,“Troutbridge! and startedwonderingiftherewasanalterna- Moonshiner Troutbridge byPeterBernfeld , waitingforthetidetocon- www.partsandpower.com EESSEQUIBO Call Parts&Powerforyournearestdealer: (284)4942830 , my Broadblue 385 , myBroadblue385 S UUP THE Cruising Cruising S P E Kaieteur Falls side tripto Jim (right)ona and Pam Cadey (above)

Q T H U E I B

Sabre M225Ti Sabre O M92B M135 M225Ti chart system(Navionics)andon up tothetownofBartica,howeveronmyelectronic than adequatetoentertheEssequiboandcontinue jump-up ordominoesafternoontobeseen! not actuallydeserted,andtherewasn’tapotluck, Essequibo River.Theanchorageswereuncrowded,if mine wasonlythefourthboatthisyeartogoup Chaguaramas, you’llhateGuyana.Imean,think quite apleasanttrip.Maybewewerejustlucky. more thanaknotorsoagainstus.Allinallitwas an occasionalappearance,butneverseemedtobe The muchtalked-aboutnorthwesterlycurrentputin with onlytheoccasional“bounce”todisturbthings. backed asitset.Theseawasslightallthewaydown as thoughthewindveeredsuncameupand of darknessandmotorsailduringdaylight;itseemed and sixhours.Wewereabletosailduringthehours completing thepassagetoRoedenRustinthreedays making afewrepairs,andthenwesetoffforGuyana, Tobago. Aweekdisappearedinswimming,walksand Bay andGrandeRivierebeforecrossingtoCharlotteville, Chaguaramas, stoppingoffinScotlandBay,LaVache had spentapleasanttimegettingtherefrom the tripfromTrinidaddowntoGuyana,twoboats —Continuedonnextpage was done. of timestakingtheflooduptoBartica,butnoharm ter draughtof2.3metrestouchedthebottomacouple metres andhadnotrouble; stay outoftrouble. with anounceofcommonsenseshouldbeableto amount ofinterpretationwasrequired,butanybody would besensibleto“stickthewetstuff”,acertain as crossingtheland.Workingonprinciplethatit and thetracksbetweensomewaypointswereshown the boatsweresometimesshownasbeingonshore The waypointsshowninDoyle’sguidearemore For thosewhojustlovethemadsocialwhirlof Despite aslightlynegativewrite-upinDoyle’sabout Troutbridge hasasaltwaterdraughtofabout1.2 Moonshiner Moonshiner’s withasaltwa- system JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 wouldn’t be a great idea, but AM Organized tours are not particularly cheap and the Guyana is a beautiful, fascinating country, well worth The locals all drink bottled water, but my watermaker bottled water, but my The locals all drink a couple of off Baganara Resort for We anchored some care and down the river requires Navigating up was easier than we To summarize, the trip down The Guyanese are a friendly people and although that’s true of a lot of places. We were warned that that’s true of a lot of places. We were warned that Georgetown wasn’t safe at night; indeed a group walk- ing back from a restaurant to their hotel was told by a local lady that it would be better to hail a taxi, but nobody had a bad experience. local produce, while of reasonable quality, is not cheap either. Petrol (gas, for the Cousins) is around US$1 per litre. Diesel prices I’m not sure of, but it is available for visiting yachts. There are local mechanics willing to work on boats. They are able to improvise, but if spare parts are not available “in country” it may take up to ten days to import them. Kit was willing to help with this process and may or may not charge for this. making the effort to visit. Anybody used to one-day inter-island passages followed by tying up in a marina may feel a little daunted by the prospect of the trip, but the reality (at least on this trip) was that with a little care, planning and provisioning the trip can be unevent- ful. I would definitely recommend going across to Tobago from Trinidad and spending some time there before heading south. seem to stay in swamp areas and have never been in swamp areas and have seem to stay problem to swimmers. known to be a least twice itsfresh water and delivered at just loved the drinking the had any problems rated flow. Nobody were there. during the 19 days we watermaker product virtually very welcoming, although days. They were the week. closed during and flood, but most of theand judicious use of the ebb charted. Those with shal- rocks seem to be accurately a lot of fun gunk-holing. low-draught boats could have trip back to Trinidad was were led to believe, and the least one knot of favour- an off-wind pleasure with at It’s worth noting that able current most of the time. the current closer to the coast is much stronger than further off shore. The difference in tracks down and up was about ten nautical miles, but there was a marked difference in the strength of the current. The return trip took two and a half days. there is some crime on the river, we never felt threat- ened. Bartica has a frontier town feel to it, but again feels safe, certainly in the early evening. Maybe stag- gering around at 3:00 . , a New Zealand Orchid Gem will undertake Gem will undertake boat, and the followingboat, and the day came across another boat, organizing tours for vis- iting cruisers and, with hindsight, it might have been better to have used her services. There appear to be no adver- tising regulations in Guyana and tour com- panies seem to be in the habit of offering tours at attractive rates — then, when you book, these Erasmus Left: A riverside scene at Bartica Right: We had a visitor, en route to Trinidad , but please remember that, but please Mood Indigo River transport is well organized on the Essequibo. A The river itself is a chocolate brown colour and when in Trinidad. They built a house on the Essequibo a few built a house on the Essequibo in Trinidad. They for boats to Joyce seems to be happy years ago and anchor near invited us to home, not a resort. She hers is a private we did, and and drop anchor, which come to her place The out to the boats for sundowners. we invited her us around she reciprocated, showing following evening encountered her home. While there, we the grounds of in the river, the third yacht rates are not available. Fairly typical (actual) rates seem to be around US$250 for a return flight and guided tour at the Kaieteur Falls and around US$600 for a five-day/four night overland trip into the interior. Again, a word of caution: the people are very friendly and willing to please but don’t expect the level of equipment or comfort that you would expect “back home”. As a retired airline pilot I was content with the local airline we used to fly to the Falls; others who went on the overland tour were not so lucky and had a road accident. The driver had no first-aid training and there was no first-aid kit in the four-wheel drive vehicle and medical help was a few hours’ drive away. So, if taking a land tour, have a look over the vehicle first and con- sider taking your own first-aid kit. That said, appar- ently the trip was very worthwhile. I would regard any river or road trip as an expedition rather than a tour and equip accordingly. one-way trip from Bartica to Parika (the nearest port on the Essequibo to Georgetown, the capital) costs approximately US$10 per person. Although the boats appear fairly crude, they are subject to regular govern- ment inspection and all passengers are required to wear flotation vests (supplied). The ride takes just over an hour and can be great fun, if a little wet at times. swimming, visibility is close to zero. The current can run at up to three knots, so a safety line off the back of the boat is highly recommended. There appear to be no “nasties” in the river, although in some places pira- nhas are present (but the locals claim are never a problem), as is the occasional anaconda. The latter . She and her late husband, Mood Indigo Continued from previous page Continued from While at anchor off Bartica (incidentally, I suggest On the Sunday, we visited Hurakabra resort for lunch Approaching Bartica, I called Kit (592 455-3200) and I called Kit (592 455-3200) Approaching Bartica, It’s worth noting that there are virtually no buoys in that there are virtually It’s worth noting you anchor a little further off the town than shown in Doyle’s, to remain clear of the barge traffic), we were visited by the irrepressible Joyce Davis, the lady who owns the yacht and a chat with Kit. The standard charge at resorts on the river seems to be US$15 per head for either lunch or dinner and there was a reasonable charge for Dom to pick us up and take us back to Bartica in a speedboat. In any case, Kit had been very helpful in his e-mails and had made no charge for sending Dom to assist with officialdom, so we felt the least we could do was to patronize his resort. Other boats might have to pay for this service, or Kit may continue to send Dom to help with clearing in; either way, he and Gem (his charming wife) are running a business. David, had been famous among cruisers as musicians the manager of his resort, to meet us in Bartica. Dom the manager of his resort, to meet us in Bartica. Dom waited until we were safely anchored and then ferried the officials out to us. They were both very pleasant and the fee was US$12.50. Everybody on the yachts was given one month in country, but I suspected that we could have had longer if we’d asked for it. This took place on a Saturday afternoon, at about 1700 hours, and there was no extra charge for working those hours or for coming out to the boat. The Immigration depart- ment is located in the police station at Bartica and the Immigration officer will walk you round to Customs. The fee for checking out is also US$12.50 and I’m pretty certain this is the only place I’ve visited so far where the officers shook hands and hoped that you’ve had a pleasant stay! he was as good as his word, sending Dominic (Dom), as his word, sending Dominic he was as good the Essequibo river, a local source of information tell- river, a local source of information the Essequibo kitty to main- was no money in the ing us that there ships or there weren’t many visiting tain them and to maintain making any provision boats to warrant still in place. those that were — JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Successfully servingyoufor45yearswithCaribe, MARIGOT BAY [email protected] /www.marigotdiveresort.com Call usonChannel(16)toreserveyourtable, French andInternationalcuisineatthemost Feel freetoanchorup, Doolittle’s Restaurant Beautiful BayintheCaribbean. and returnyoutoyouryacht. we willthenpickyouup (Ask Mr. Michener)

NO CHARGE!

St. Lucia —Continuedonnextpage eroded thesidesofislandtoformsheer cliffs. approximately two-and-a-halfhours.Along thewaywesawhowwaveaction and MelodywhooperateTheGreenMonkey DiveShopatLittleBay.Thetourtook looked intotakingaboattouraroundthe island.WeturnedtotheservicesofTroy is nowinnerthejackpotrollsover. ticipate inthejackpotgameplayedonpaper ticketsforaboutEC$10each.Ifthere first tospell“H”.Attheendofthisyou return theplasticbingocardsandcanpar- “Hurricane Hugo”wonagame.Forexample, forthefirstgamewinnerwas Night” andthefirstpersontogetnumbersinshapeofeachletters of Bingo Nighthasatheme;forinstance,thefirsttimewewentitwas“HurricaneHugo can bepurchasedforEC$5eachandreusedthedurationofnight.Sometimes from 10:15 tion andthestagesofvolcano’sevolution.Itisshownatquarterpasteveryhour Here forafeeofEC$10(US$3.75)youcanviewdocumentaryonlifebeforetheerup- inhabitants ofpotentialdanger.ThisfacilityisopentothepublicMondayThursday. Observatory (MVO).Thesolepurposeofthisfacilityistomonitorthevolcanoandwarn the volcano. a cleardayyoucanmakeouttheoutlineofspikyplugsthatcapopeningto a telescope,whichoffersbetterviewoftheareaandSoufriereHillsvolcano.On the destroyedW.H.BrambleAirportandsomeofsurroundingvillages.Thereis maintained gardens,apicnicareaandviewingplatformfromwhichyoucansee and amapoftheisland,headedoffexploring. listed inthetouristguide,andwethoughtthatwouldtry.Sogotguide a greatthingaboutMontserratisthatitsmallenoughtodopracticallyeverything assisted byoneofmyfriendswhohadvisitedtheislandbefore.Whatstruckusas Caribbean, whichwasmyhomefortwoweeksasIconductedresearch. many wonderfulanddiverseislands.TheseincludedtheEmeraldIsleof Day isapublicholiday. colony). ItisalsotheonlyplaceinworldoutsideofIrelandwhereSt.Patrick’s figure ofErinwithaharpalongsidetheUnionJack(asMontserratisstillBritish the shamrockstampintheirpassport.ThenationalflagalsohaslegendaryIrish because oftheirreligion.ThefirstevidenceIrishinfluencethatgreetsvisitorsis were broughtfromSt.Kitts,astheynotwelcomeintheotherBritishcolonies Originally inhabitedbytheAmerindians,in1632EnglishandIrishCatholicsettlers areas thatexperiencedvolcanicactivity,butalsoreferstoitsstrongIrishheritage. only referstothelushgreenvegetationpresentonisland,eveninsomeof new culturalcentreandpublicmarketwerealreadycompleted. Little Bayinthenorthofislandproceeds.WhenIvisitedMontserratrecently town andhousesthegovernmentofficeswhileconstructionofnewcapitalcityat re-emerging islandculture.Currently,thesettlementofBradesservesasmain this shouldnotbeseenasadrawbackbutrathertheopportunitytoexperience exclusion zone,the4,000remaininginhabitantshavebasicallyhadtostartover.But with pyroclasticflowsandash.Alargepartofthepopulationleftisland. Montserrat isnowtotallydifferent.VolcaniceruptionsinthatyearcoveredPlymouth mercial centreoftheEasternCaribbean.Tothosewholastvisitedpriorto1995, (Thursdays from8:00 Montserrat OrioleandtheRockIguana. many stampsfeaturepicturesofthelocalandendemicwildlifesuchas the Philatelic Bureau,whichhassomethingforboththenatureandstamplover,since garden. ThesamebuildingthathousestheNationalTrustalso medicinal plants.Plansareintheworkstoturnthisgardenintoanationalbotanical items. Theyalsohaveabeautifulgardenwithcollectionofornamental,fruiting and Trust inSalemwhereyoucanpurchasebooks,T-shirtsandothernature-inspired up JackBoyHillleadingtoBaker’sandthenonKatyHill. Trail. Moreexperiencedhikerswouldwanttotrymorechallengingtrailslikethose see thewiderangeoffloraandfaunaonisland.Ifyouareanovice,tryOriole a networkoftrails.Thetrailsarevaryingdegreesdifficultybutallallowyou to untouched bythevolcano.Thisislandhasalottooffernaturelover,including land. Butthetruthisthatlush,undevelopednorthernpartofisland was servatory.info) information onthehistoryofvolcaniceruptionsvisitwww.montserratvolcanoob- down theashtoformathickmudthatburiedcapitalcityevendeeper.(Formore extended outtoseafromtheTarRiverValley.Theheavyrainsthatfollowedwashed November 1995.InAugust1997,pyroclasticflowsdestroyedcentralPlymouthand been dormantforrecordedhistory,wasactiveagain.Magmafirstappearedin quakes continuinguntilJuly1995wasthefirstsignthatvolcano,whichhad of theislandwasdamagedbyHurricaneHugoin1989.In1992aseriesearth- with theoperationsofMVOandwasdiscontinued. work areaandseetheseismicrecordingequipment.However,thisstartedtointerfere activity. Intherecentpast,visitorswereallowedtotalkscientistsandgointheir After thefirstweekwedecidedthathad seenalmosteverythingonlandsowe But you can get an even better view of the volcano from the Montserrat Volcano But youcangetanevenbetterviewofthevolcanofromMontserratVolcano Our firststopwasatJackBoyHillonthenortheastsideofisland.Ithaswell- My researchonthespiderbiodiversityinEasternCaribbeanhastakenmeto This islandiscommonlycalledthe“EmeraldIsleofCaribbean”.namenot With approximatelytwo-thirdsoftheislanddeclaredunsafeandplacedinan Montserrat wasonceabustlingislandanditscapitalcity,Plymouth,thecom- There aremanynightspotsandrestaurants.MyfavouritewasBingoNight If youwanttopassivelysupportthebiodiversityofisland,visitNational Many peoplemayhavetheideathataftereruptionMontserratbecameawaste- Here welearnedthatMontserratisnostrangertonaturaldisasters—95percent Treasure ABuried Montserrat — AM to3:15 PM PM . There are also many informative posters illustrating volcanic . Therearealsomanyinformativepostersillustratingvolcanic foraboutanhour)atTheLimeSportsBarinBrades.Cards by Jo-AnneNinaSewlal ALL ASHORE… JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 SAIL DESIGN GROUP Largest loft in the BVI Full sales and service loft location Convenient repair and canvas canvas New off Pick up and drop Clean, renewable fuel renewable Clean, sail with every free e. [email protected] e. l t. 284 494 1124 t. l www.quantumsails.com Located near the entrance of Nanny Cay Located near the entrance of Nanny Nanny Cay, Tortola, BVI Tortola, Cay, Nanny , but during the day it is quiet and it’s great for an early morning swim. It is , but during the day it is quiet and it’s great for an early PM Continued from previous page Continued from If you are new to snorkelling as I was and you want to go to a more populated If you are new to snorkelling as I was and you want We were lucky that day as it was quite clear so we had a great view of the volcano it was quite clear so we had a great view of the volcano We were lucky that day as The large petroleum tanks near the coast enter the water as they come loose from near the coast enter the water as they come loose from The large petroleum tanks Then we came to Plymouth, or “Modern Day Pompeii” as it is commonly referred Day Pompeii” as it is commonly to Plymouth, or “Modern Then we came Right now the best way to reach the island is either by yacht (yachts can currently Before we left we took a drink of the pure spring water from Runaway Ghaut (pro- We were also lucky to meet one of Montserrat’s famous citizens, Alphonsus Another colourful resident we had the great fortune to meet was Kevin West. He is During our visit we were fortunate to meet some interesting residents of the island If you want to get a safer “up close and personal” view of the destruction caused by Some more adventurous persons might want to walk around in the old capital and Some more adventurous persons might want to walk around beach, Woodlands beach is a good place to start. The crowd really gathers at around beach, Woodlands beach is a good place to start. The crowd 3:00 just below the plug. Troy said it was the clearest they had seen in months. But you it was the clearest they had seen in months. But just below the plug. Troy said long because of the constant presence of sulphuric gas, cannot stay in the area too bay to Rendezvous Bay. This relatively small, isolated so we turned back and headed head north. Its calm waters make it great for snorkel- is just past Little Bay as you The bay is accessible by land but it is a long hike that ling, which is what we did. to We returned to Rendezvous Bay later in the week becomes steep in some parts. to Again we enlisted the services of The Green Monkey try our hand at kayaking. rent kayaking equipment. the mud. This poses a hazard for boat propellers, so that the area has to be navi- the mud. This poses a hazard gated with caution. to. There was not much to see, as heavy rains washed ash downhill after the erup- rains washed ash downhill not much to see, as heavy to. There was buildings, but as hard as cement. We saw it hardened it became tions, and when buildings more just the top floors of any that what we were seeing was kept in mind is below this level is buried in rock-hard ash. It than two storeys tall — everything the looks frozen in time, standing in silent testimony to an eerie sight: the entire city once was. And although from a distance it looks pristine bustling commercial hub it deteriorating. and untouched, it is slowly — as you head before you reach Plymouth Bay, which is the bay We passed Foxes saw many large Plymouth we off limits to the public. Approaching south and is and Plymouth, hillsides between Foxes Bay occupying the homes and condominiums of present-day landscape reminded me now stand abandoned. The all of which in Trinidad. Chaguaramas anchor only at Little Bay), or by flying from Antigua on WinAir (www.fly-winair.com) or Fly Montserrat (www.flymontserrrat.com). The ferry service between Antigua and Montserrat is undergoing changes; for updates visit www.visitmontserrat.com nounced gut). Contrary to its name, it is said that if you drink from this you will visit Montserrat again. So, see you again, Emerald Isle! Cassell, better known as the calypsonian “Arrow”, at his store, Arrow’s Manshop. His song “Hot Hot Hot” is known worldwide. an avid photographer and the owner of Paradise Photo and Art Studio. He took many of the photos of the eruption that are now featured on postcards from the island. He told us how he set up his camera for hours, shooting rolls of film late into the night. He also told us of a time he had to take his equipment and literally run out of the path of the volcanic flow after he had waited until the very last minute to get the perfect shot. who decided to stay after the eruptions, including Shirley and Lou Spycalla. Along with all the physical destruction, some of the country’s rich folklore was also destroyed. Shirley told us of the legend of the mermaid of the pool at Chance’s Peak. If you were able to take her golden comb, she would grant your wishes. This pond is now buried under many feet of rock-hard ash. the eruption of the Soufriere Hills volcano, visit Belham Valley on the safe side of the border of the exclusion zone. This was one of the small valleys where the pyroclastic flows came through, claiming 19 lives. Evidence that it was once a thriving commu- nity is seen by the abandoned homes and businesses including a hotel, hair salon and nightclub. Some electricity poles still stick up through the mud as silent indica- tors of the location of streets and the buildings that once lined them. We went into one of the abandoned condominiums during one of our explorations of the area. passes can be obtained from the local police — only when they deem it safe to enter the area. This is for your safety since heavy rains, especially during the wet season, can bring down mudslides. one of the beaches where leatherback turtles nest. The island is also quite safe, so one of the beaches where leatherback turtles nest. The to visit. you could camp on the beach and wait for the turtles Top: Much of Montserrat’s former capital, Plymouth, has been buried in volcanic debris at Brades Above: Out of the ashes: the island’s new cultural centre JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26

● ● ● ● ● ● e-mail: [email protected]/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT

New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft S B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email:[email protected] Easily approachedfromCarriacou,UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV BIMINI &DODGER FUEL •OILWATERICE A including Contact: GlennClementorReynoldBelmar forallyour GRE I The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: G LLS &CANVAS Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts R CUSTOM-MADE 16-18 feetofwateralongside S Petite Martinique Come inandseeus E BBEQUIA

SAILS &CANVAS & framesatcompetitiveprices N E Q AADINES

U C VHF:[email protected] D Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 I stainless steel A A I CARRIACOU N needs REPRESENTATIVE N E

V S

A S between CarriacouandGrenada,to theeast. Sandy Island,Unionthetown of Hillsborough,theislandstosouth ture likeabrightlycoloredchildren’sbook illustration.Youalsogetgreatviewsof The viewofTyrrelBayisoutstanding:the wholebayislaidoutbeforeyouinminia- you begintogetagoodview.Youemerge outofthetreesatverytophill. or findyourwayaroundfallentrees. straight andnarrow.Thereisnotrail-maintenance crew;youmayhavetoscramble to thetop.Ifyoufindyourselfoneither side oftheridge,youarestrayingfrom the paththatleadsupalongridgethrough thetrees.Followthispathallway It willbringyoutoanopenridge.Thepartisquicklyoverandneed find through oneofthesmallopeningsthatleadintonextfield. to thetopleftoffieldandget can seeyourdestinationwayabove.Go field thatgoesuptoaridgeandyou hand sideyouwillcomeintoasmall side ofthepond.Ifyoutakeright- hole. Plus,intheshadeitiscool. wading birds,grackles,pigeonsandotherbirdsthatusethisasthelocalwatering into adensethicketwithsmallpond.Thisisgoodrestingspot;thereareoften cows inthepath,untilyougettofield’stopleft-handcorner,whereapathgoes gap inthehedge.)Enterintofield. version: turnleftatthejunction,walkacoupleoffeetandrightthrough see agapinthehedgeintofieldalmostoppositewhereyouarestanding.(Long divides intwo.Ifyoustandatthisjunctionandlookthelefthandroad,will a hillonyourright.Theroadfollowsupwardsaroundthishill. starts offpavedandturnstodirt.Forthemostpartyouhaveaviewonyourleft the firstleft-handturn.Thisroadbendsaroundandclimbsslowlyintohills.It side road,whichisgoodandstraight,withseveralhousesoneitherside.Thentake mud whenwetandonfallenleavesdry. is anunmarkedpathofsorts,whichsteeptowardsthetop.Itcanbeslippery—on The hiketakesabouttwotothreehoursroundtripfromtheTyrrelBaydock.There for comfortandgoodlighttheviewoverTyrrelBay(don’tforgetyourcamera). with youonthishike. to feelyouhavebeenashighcangetonCarriacou,carryasmallstepladder Carriacou. Thehighesthill(HighNorth)isonlyametretaller,soifyoureallywant Tyrrel Bay.Standing290metresabovesealevel,itisthesecondhighesthillon on top.LooktotheeastandyouwillseeChapeauCarée,tallesthillvisiblefrom to thenorthabovemangroves,nowbrokenbyabignewItalianhouseperched ChapeauCarée Carriacou’s A rewardingviewofTyrrelBay,Carriacou,fromthepeakChapeauCarée Right: Trailmap on dryislands essential forlivestockandwildlife Above: Wateringholeslikethisare The pathismainlyinthewoods,which give shade,exceptforoneclearingwhere If yougototheleftofpondwillalreadybehere.Followthisfieldupwards. You cancontinuewalkingoneither Now theadventurebegins.Walkupthroughfield,makingfriendswithany Continue tillyoucometoasmalljunctionstraightaheadwherethedirtroad From themaindock,turnleftindirectionofL’Esterre.Turnrightonfirst Hiking toChapeauCaréeislovely,butitcanbehot,soearlymorningbestboth If youlookaroundwhileanchoredinTyrrelBaywillseetheveryprettyhillline SSAILORS’ HIKESBYCHRISDOYLE A I L O R S ’

H I K E S

B Y

C H R I S

D O Y L E JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 January - March 2010 Please download our Calendar of Events 2010 Please download our Calendar JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Please downloadourCalendarofEvents2010 April -December2010 JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 April - December 2010 Please download our Calendar of Events 2010 Please download our Calendar JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Please downloadourCalendarofEvents2010 January -March2010 JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 ” Penn Reels Penn Parts Penn Service & Repair Snorkeling & Diving Gear Wir sprechen Deutsch Courtesy Flags i h C ibb

. Collectable Knives hhhhh i SINCE 1950 BEQUIA YACHTSPEOPLE WEST INDIES FRONT STREET ous parlons Français SERVING FISHERMEN AND snorkeling and fishing gear. N Big Blue Building Leaders Fresh Bait Rigged & Unrigged Foul Weather Gear DUTY FREE The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in Bequia SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, hoses, complete diving,SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, Phone: 784 458 3360 [email protected] Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights, Electronics, marine electronics, Visit us for all your needs Some people call us the “most interesting shop in the Caribbean.”Some people call us the “most interestingSlllh“i spring, or a ladder? Come to us andLooking for a table hinge, a hatch line with a lure just right for theWant to catch fish? Get a simple hand all: suits, tanks, belts, masks, fins andDiving or snorkeling? We have it We moved to former Salty Dog - next to Porthole We moved to former Salty sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hardware, blocks, cleats,sockets, navigation, charts, guides, Hablamos Español Wander around. You will find things you have been seeking for ages. WeWander around. You will find things well as necessary accessories and spares. offer a wide range of hardware as get the right screws with it one time. and reel to help you win the next fish- speed of your boat, or go for a rod our expertise with you becauseing tournament. We take pride in sharing we want YOU to succeed. lenses for the masks. snorkels. We even have prescription Look for the EMAIL: [email protected] St. Vincent & The Grenadines Wire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes LULLEY‘S VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361 TEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 TACKLE SHOP TACKLE Icom VHF Garmin GPS Accessories Leatherman Rods & Reels Anglers Lures Penn & Diawa FISHING & DIVING GEAR Mustad Hooks Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. YOUR #1 CHOICE IN FISHING GEAR Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage Our stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience is unsurpassed The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia Marina e nic ther ano is nada Gre rof orne st c thea nor the on . Head across Bequia Channel with the first of the weather- land that’s one of my favorites yIs Compass Sand

ted of the bow pulpit. A few will require someone on the lower spreaders. (On of the bow pulpit. A few will Frigate Island is a seldom-used anchorage Frigate Island is a seldom-used anchorage OFF THE BEATEN TRACK WITH DON STREET BEATEN TRACK OFF THE

habi on top In Dominica there are few anchorages; none are off the beaten track. Next month: The Saints and northward. There are so many anchorages on the east coast of Martinique that I will not try to In Martinique, check in at Le Marin, then leave the crowded harbor and anchor off Heading west, try Laborie. Unfortunately there are moorings, but I am told that Once checked in at Vieux Fort, sail around the corner and anchor in Anse de Sable. Out to windward is Baliceaux, an uninhabited island visited by fishermen and the On to the windward side of Mayreau: just like the outer anchorage in the Tobago On to the windward side of Mayreau: just like the outer Sail on north and west to anchor behind Frigate Island, a seldom-used anchorage Sail on north and west to anchor behind Frigate Island, A short beat brings you to Kendeance Point, the entrance to Grand Bay where you A short beat brings you to Kendeance Point, the entrance Instead of crowded Tyrrel Bay, head for the southeast corner of Carriacou. In the Instead of crowded Tyrrel Bay, head for the southeast Enroute to Carriacou, in summer months when it is not blowing hard, a daytime Enroute to Carriacou, in summer months when it is Uninhabited Sandy Island, on the northeast corner of Grenada, is another nice Uninhabited Sandy Island, on the northeast corner Unin Grenville’s anchorage is not that hard to enter, sheltered from the sea but not the Grenville’s anchorage is not that hard to enter, sheltered Grenada’s south coast has numerous anchorages; one can almost always find an Grenada’s south coast has numerous anchorages; one Grenada has an abundance of under-used anchorages. On the southwest coast, of under-used anchorages. On the southwest coast, Grenada has an abundance Let’s start from the south. anchorages. Those on the north coast should not Tobago has a dozen uncrowded All the anchorages mentioned are well described in various guides, so I won’t give are well described in various guides, so I won’t give All the anchorages mentioned As I’ve often mentioned, articles and letters in yachting magazines frequently com- As I’ve often mentioned, articles Tobago to Dominica Dominica to Tobago list them. Since the harbors lay on an east-west axis it means you cannot leave till the sun is high and you should be anchoring by 1500 at the latest. At the head of some of these harbors the rise and fall of tide at springs can reach three feet, so check depth and state of tide before anchoring. Ste. Anne in clear water and plenty of room. It is a good jumping-off spot for the east coast of Martinique, a wonderful cruising ground where you will see few if any other cruising yachts. In this area my guide is adequate, but if you really want to gunk hole, especially if you have a shoal-draft boat, purchase the guide by Philipe Lacheneze Huede and Jerome Nouel. Philip is descended from Martinique’s first white settlers and has sailed the east coast all his life, while Jerome arrived in Martinique 30 years ago, has cruised into every gunk hole in Martinique and has produced superb sketch charts. there is still space to anchor and the boat boys are not too pushy. Tuck up really tight behind Maria Island, as in the main bay it tends to be rolly as the swell hooks around both sides of Maria Island. occasional yacht. Another easily reached, quiet anchorage is Anse Chemin on Bequia, which is great as long as the wind is east or south of east. From Anse Chemin or Baliceaux heading north, forget about sailing up the west lee side of St Vincent. Check the “meridian passage of the moon” table on the back of the Imray Iolaire chart or in going tide, go to windward of St. Vincent and stand north to Vieux Fort, St. Lucia. It should be a close reach, a fetch during the winter, or come spring, when the wind tends to be south of east, a good fast reach. Cays, but no other boats. The windward side of Canouan is also an excellent anchor- Cays, but no other boats. The windward side of Canouan age and big enough that you will never be crowded. If it is not blowing too hard, and if you are a good eyeball navigator and can put a crewmember ON THE SPREADERS, you will find another anchorage where you will be alone and have good diving within easy swimming distance of the boat. that’s one of my favorites. (Frigate Island is attached to Union Island by a causeway that’s one of my favorites. (Frigate Island is attached to wind is south of east, Bloody constructed for a failed marina project.) Then, if the or north of east forget it. Bay on Union Island is wonderful, but if the wind is east find five miles of sheltered water and good anchorage tight behind the reef. Continue find five miles of sheltered water and good anchorage or more should proceed dead north past St. Hilaire Point. Boats drawing seven feet off the boatbuilders’ village of slow or send the dinghy ahead to check depth. Anchor Windward or tight up behind Carib Island. summer when it is not blowing too hard try the anchorage behind One Tree Rock. summer when it is not blowing too hard try the anchorage reef to windward. To the east There is room for one boat only and good diving on the Island and northwest of of One Tree Rock, anchorage can be found west of Sandy Saline Island. anchorage might be found in the lee of Les Tantes, where fishermen sometimes anchorage might be found in the lee of Les Tantes, de Ronde is a good anchorage camp. Corn Store Bay on the northwest corner of Isle as long as the groundswell is not running. anchorage seldom visited by yachts. wind, and a wonderful base from which to do shoreside explorations of the northeast wind, and a wonderful base from which to do shoreside It’s possible to sail out but corner of Grenada. When leaving, mind your p’s and q’s. advisable to motor-sail. uncrowded one. If heading north up the east coast, see sailing directions on the back uncrowded one. If heading north up the east coast, see Petit Trou offer good anchor- of Imray Iolaire chart B32; Lascar Cove, Requin and Le ages where you will find no habitation and no other boats. boats that draw six feet or less can work their way well into Morne Rouge Bay. less can work their way well into Morne Rouge Bay. boats that draw six feet or of the shelf and back off. Deeper draft boats can drop their anchors on the edge be used in the winter due to the prevalence of the northwest groundswell, but come the prevalence of the northwest groundswell, but come be used in the winter due to to hurricane approaches, head south to Trinidad or west summer they are fine. (If a Golfo de Cariaco.) sailing directions. Admittedly, many require eyeball navigation with someone stand- sailing directions. Admittedly, ing halyards, climbing aloft is much more difficult than the modern yacht with internal a were external. Fixing steps on the mast to enable in the old days when halyards the lower spreaders is a worthwhile alteration.) crewmember to easily reach plain that the harbors in the Eastern Caribbean are so full of mooring balls and other Eastern Caribbean are so full of mooring balls and other plain that the harbors in the to anchor. But I’d like to let newly arrived sailors know yachts that there is no room off the beaten track and forgo bars and restaurants, that if you are willing to get can anchorages where you and a buddy boat or two there are probably a hundred enjoy anchoring in solitude. Part One: JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 charts. Fairtides! nadir tosoonafteritsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. moon’s settingtojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfrom moon reachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthe to theeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutanhour calculate thetides. of themeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyou author ofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetime your passagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet, 0 1547 1507 1427 20 1346 19 1303 18 1219(new) 17 1131 16 1042 15 0950 14 0858 13 0806 12 0715 11 0626 10 0537 9 0449 8 0400 7 0310 6 0216 5 0118 4 0016 3 2 1 DATE TIME January For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmake MERIDIAN PASSAGE JANUARY &FEBRUARY2010 OF THEMOON 0746 0654 0607 8 0510 7 0419 6 0329 5 0239 4 0148 3 2 1 DATE TIME February 2454(full) 2356 31 0054 2256 30 2153 29 2050 28 1949 27 1852 26 1800 25 1713 24 1629 23 22 21 Grenada 8 0000(full) 2330 2234 28 2136 27 2036 26 1936 25 1836 24 1739 23 1646 22 1557 21 1511 20 1428 19 1347 18 1307 17 1226(new) 16 1145 15 1101 14 1016 13 0928 12 0838 11 10 9 tures andmisadventuresof South AfricaandacrosstheAtlantic,backtoBrazil,some25yearslater.Theadven- Australia andNewZealand.Thenitwas3,000milesacrosstoMadagascar,around around theCapeanduptoChile,thenEasterIsland,acrossPacificPolynesia, to theCanaryIslands,thenacrossAtlanticBrazil,southArgentinaand Cora’s extensivetravels. worthy boat. changes havebeenmade,herstout,40-foot,16-tonhullstillprovidesatrulysea- a cutterandherwheelhousehasbeencutdowntocoachroofcountlessother 1991. Eventhoughshehasatallermastinstalledandforesailaddedtomakeher tinued astheytraveleduntil to refithersufficientlybegintheircruisinglife.Theworkofrefitting it tookStanandCorauntil1981 Purchased inGuernsey1977, off thecoastofUKuntil1949. service intheoften-hostilewaters sailer lifeboatandremainedin built in1927asanRNLImotor- Germany in1981.Theboatwas Stan andCorasincetheyleft ries them,makingfriendsandmusicalongtheway. everywhere butIalwayshavemyownbed,books,home,whereverweare.” friendly tous.” Mozambique. Buttheyadd,“Everywherewehavebeen,we’vefoundthepeopletobe including theCrownPrince,afellowmusician.OtherfavoritesareMadagascarand is Tonga.TheyspentfiveyearsinTonga‘sVava’uislandgroup,makingmanyfriends, outlook andpassionforlivingclearlycomethroughintheirmusic. on theotherhand,hasacquiredhermusicalskillsduringtheirtravels.Theirupbeat keyboard andvocalwhileCoraplaysthesax.Stanhasplayedsincechildhood.Cora, jazz orbluespiecesinsomelocalclub,oftenjoinedbymusicians.Standoes sion formusic.Wherevertheyare,youwillprobablyfindthemplayingtheirfavorite involved inhandlingtheboat.Whateverneedstobedone,togethertheycanhandleit. tain. Navigationhasbecomesecondnaturetobothofthem,ashavemostthetasks Underway, thecrewroleson tom scraping,epoxyandcanvaswork,generallykeepstheboatshipshape. need ratherthanhavingtomakeityourself.”Coradoesthepainting,varnishing,bot- the CaribbeanthatIrealizedyoucouldwalkintoachandleryandbuysomething able. Heiscarpenter,welder,mechanicandrigger.Corasaid,“Itwasn’tuntilwegotto of-the-way places,requiringStantocreateneededpartsanditemsfrommaterialsavail- the Caribbeantwoyearsago. From Brazil,StanandCoraworkedtheirwayuptheSouthAmericancoastinto They startedtheircruisingadventureintheMediterranean.Fromtheretheywent S/V Ambler For thefuture,asfartheycanseeit,StanandCorawillgowherewindcar- When Iaskedwhattheylikebestaboutthiscruisinglife,Coraspokeup.“Wego When askedwhattheirfavoriteplaceshavebeen,theyagreeall-time In theirtravelsacrosstheplanet,StanandCorahavesharedtalentpas- Stan isthecookandengineer.Muchofrefitboathasbeendoneinout- CRUISER PROFILESBYJOHNROWLAND Ambler hasbeenhometo hasprovenherselftobeareliablevesselthroughoutStanand Ambler Ambler’s Ambler arequiteblurred.Whoeverisonwatchthecap- voyagesduringthoseyearswouldfillabook. wasbroughttohercurrentconfigurationin oon aand Cora SStan n n t a d

AAmbler n

C

m o b r l a Ambler e

r con- JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 , Plumbelly TOHATSU has carried safely across oceans. has carried safely as “a grand love affair”. In the case as “a grand love affair”. In Plumbelly Plumbelly crosses oceans, turns heads, FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water Scaffolding Guadeloupe F.W.I.

Plumbelly of Bequia

is the princess of every harbor she visits; she always gets the best she always gets the best of every harbor she visits; is the princess One previous owner and friend of mine told me before I left for the first time, told me before I left for the owner and friend of mine One previous of humans’ love of labor, and people have I read once that art is an expression Plumbelly Klaus created a working monument to this fading tradition, a swan song that to this fading tradition, a swan song that Klaus created a working monument and love of the sea. She is a vessel that has turned fused his love of construction that she plies, always popping up to the delight of into a legend in the waters of just getting a boat and going. everyone who ever dreamed “ fishing harbor true — from the grimiest be darned if it hasn’t been spot!” And I’ll spots in the Caribbean, she always gets the royal in Morocco to the most chi-chi but so proud. She just charms the socks off of every- treatment. She’s so small, of adventure and tradition she embodies that makes body! I think it’s the spirit they take a moment to admire her. peoples’ eyes twinkle when with described Klaus’ relationship it was a love born out of necessity, for nothing less of the Bequian shipwrights a vessel seaworthy enough for whaling. In than a sort of love can create day sailing and coastal cruising until an adventurous young man from Maine adventurous young man coastal cruising until an day sailing and lands. Now in the direction of faraway once again pointed her bow bought her and but I bought (actually I’m from Ohio in a line of owners from Maine I am the third living in Maine) whom the boat while Small but mighty, and keeps tradition and dreams alive [email protected] (filters, impellers, belts) Marina Pointe-à-Pitre 97110 , is it?” “Bet ended up in E-mail: D GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants

comes back home, Plumbelly Plumbelly MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) - HAUL OUT always N Phone: +590 590 907 137 Fax: +590 590 908 651 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE • SALES • REPAIRS • MAINTENANCE FRED MARINE

E

G

arrived in the Pacific

E Plumbelly

LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED L had no engine, no electricity and no self- came to life on the beach in Admiralty Bay and Klaus returned to Bequia to a hero’s sails and she knew where we were. I smiled

, there is a gleam of pride in their eyes when

SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop

Plumbelly Plumbelly She was launched in 1965, and a few years later set She was launched in 1965, and a few years later set But later, as I guided my beloved little boat back to herBut later, as I guided my beloved Plumbelly While Klaus was resting in Tahiti, a big red double- When I bought my boat in Maine six years ago, people told me she was built in When I bought my boat in When Klaus finally stopped after 20-odd years of sailing, and let myself believe in the magic carpet that carried me so many miles and reveled in her amazing history. out to cross the Pacific Ocean. Klaus’ motivation for leaving on such an ambitious passage is unknown to me. birthplace after a 28th transatlantic passage, a little puffbirthplace after a 28th transatlantic of Bequia swept acrossof wind sweetened by the trees Plumbelly’s under the shade of the palm trees, near the place where the Porthole Restaurant is now. An eccentric German architect and ship’s captain named Klaus Alverman wanted a small yacht to cruise the islands in, and he set out to build it with the help of, among others, Bequian shipwright Lauren Dewar, better known as Lauren Joe. They built the 25-foot boat in the local tradition, hewing carefully selected timber from around the island into the shape of a modified two-bow fishing boat. Her full body inspired the name as a passerby commented, “Look like she got a big plum in de belly!” and that she knew the way to Bermuda on her own. But and that she knew the way and myself ready for a solo in the drive to get the boat allowed myself to think of passage to Bermuda, I never way. I preferred to call her my vessel in such a romantic and focused on all of her “tried and true” if anything, possible weaknesses. steering device. After four weeks of sailing sheet-to-tiller with the bow down, the hands of an American science professor in Massachusetts. She was used for ender came gliding into the harbor with a wild-eyed ender came gliding into the harbor with a wild-eyed Frenchman at the helm. The man had just sailed two times around the world, non-stop. It was the messiah of French yachting, Bernard Moitessier. The two men became friends and Klaus obtained a design for a sim- ple wind vane from him. He built the wind vane in New Zealand and it is working its magic as I write this. islands sporting a beard of algae on her bowsprit! the Caribbean and was famous. They told me that she the Caribbean and was famous. by Patrick DiLalla SAILING SAILING AA LEGEND welcome — the first Bequia boat to be sailed around the welcome — the first Bequia boat to be sailed around the of world. For those in Bequia that know the story Plumbelly they speak about it. This is my second time “back home” with the old girl and I’ve yet to meet someone over 30 who doesn’t know the name. Many remember Klaus and called him a friend. Bequians will be pleased to know that the boat’s fame extends far beyond Bequia, the as Windward Islands and even the Caribbean. In places far afield as Senegal I’ve had people ask me: “That’s not THE your boots it is, the one and only!” People just smile and shake their heads. JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 —Continuedonnextpage the IntracoastaldowntoFlorida. the DelawareRiver,ChesapeakeBay,Norfolk,and and downtheHudsonRivertoNewYork,CapeMay, with noideaforhowlong—WOW. clock-watching, justlivingonedayatatimeand September 6th,2007.Nomoreschedules,no cially startedthisnewlifestyleandadventureon and thenewequipmentweputonboard,offi- south ofMontréal,gettingfamiliarwithourboat additional sailingqualifications. mechanics, meteorologyandfirstaid,gotsome courses insubjectssuchasshortwaveradio,diesel courses. Beforeweleft,alsotookspecialized taken basicnavigationandcoastal 1992 JenneauSunOdyssey44.Wehadpreviously name it),findtheboatandgo! owned (thehouse,motorboat,car,furniture,you tion thatwasthebestforus:selleverythingwe After studyingafewscenarios,wecametoonesolu- we couldmanagetomakethisprojectcomealive. resounding “YES!” already hadagoodideaofheranswer—itwas could imaginecruisingtheCaribbeanfulltime.I for. JustbeforeleavingMartiniqueIaskedherifshe with thetakeoverofcompanythatIwasworking coming yearandIwasn’treallysureofmyfuture water. Mywifewasentitledtoherretirementthe past tenyearsandlovedtotravelbeonthe Guadeloupe andback.Wehadbeensailingforthe charter ona40-footcatamaran,fromMartiniqueto fifties. Ournewhomeiscalled both fromMontréal,Canada,retiredandinourmid- give youabitofourbackground. with Grenada Falling inLove Our firstlegwasthroughtheChamplainCanal After sailingfortwomonthsonLakeChamplain, So, afterayearandhalf,weleftMontréalon Upon ourreturnIstartedrightawaytoseehow It allstartedin2006attheendofatwo-week My nameisRichardandmywifeLucie;weare Hello toyouall.Beforetellingourstory,letme Port LouisMarina–anothergreatreasontovisitGrenada Port As a Port of Entry, it’s easy to clear in and out through Port Louis, and our 24-hour security, ofEntry,As aPort it’s Louis,andour24-hour easytoclearinandoutthroughPort ITALY |MALTA |TURKEY in theCaribbean. www.cnportlouismarina.com Grenada remainsoneofthemostunspoiltandwelcomingcruisingdestinations Grenada’s locationallows foryear-roundcruising,includingthesummermonths, southern Now, Louis,visitingyachtscanenjoythesecurityandconvenience withPort to theisland’s capital,StGeorge’s. dockside facilitiesandmarina-widewi-fiallcontribute tomakingyourstaysafeandrelaxed. islandsoftheGrenadines. exploring thewonderful justfivemilesaway, airport and withaninternational Louisistheideal basefor Port marina–locatedinthelagoonadjacent of abeautifullyappointed,fullyserviced by RichardRolland Marie GalanteII WEST INDIES . Port LouisMarina–justonemorereasontovisitthe‘SpiceIsland’. Port Danny Donelanon+1(473)[email protected] Louis,includingtheopportunity atPort aboutsecuringaberth For moreinformation LouisisownedandoperatedbyCamper&NicholsonsMarinas,ourfriendly Port to purchase on a 30-year licence,pleasecontactourSalesandMarketingCo-ordinator, to purchaseona30-year from 20ftto300ft. and knowledgeable staff areonhand24hoursadaytowelcomeyachtsofallsizes and knowledgeablestaff Inset: RichardandLucie favorite islandsofar the capitalofour Picturesque St.George’s, JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 — they are looking for you. We have traveled a lot and for you. We have traveled — they are looking We were still not sure if we would remain here for hurricane sea- not sure if we would remain We were still different about this place but were not Already we felt something the marina to see the ongoing Every day I took a walk around to continue to Venezuela, Lucie By the time our friends arrived every- I had to go back home for two weeks, and upon my return please, To the people of Grenada who read this, please, please, here yet, For those cruisers who have not had the chance to come adventure, To all the friends we made since the beginning of this the dock master of Port Louis Marina, and the reunion with cruising the reunion with cruising of Port Louis Marina, and the dock master anchored close by. friends who were boats going to Venezuela had friends from two other son because we We still had three weeks us to go with them. and they wanted the marina for that time. and decided to stay at before their arrival by foot or dinghy, and close to everything, whether There you are the buses, well, you don’t right here. Talking about the buses are wait for them cheap — EC$2.50 (about bus system is unique and find Grenada’s most places you want to go. one US dollar) will take you tour with friends we discovered thesure what it was. On an island naturally, the rum distillery. I believespice factories, plantations and, our love story. Raymond (Maboat), ourthat was the beginning of a very good personal friend. The thingdriver and guide, came to be are so welcoming: without prejudice,about Grenadians is that they Even the street vendors do not harasssimple, honest and helpful. they smile and wish you a good day. Nowyou; if you say “no, thanks”, other situations elsewhere!that is special, after living with It’s quite interesting if you like to see expansion and renovation. beginning, the workers thought I was how things are built. At the out that I was more curious than any- an inspector but soon found thing else and we became friendly. here for hurricane season and to learn and I had decided to stay since Carnival was around the cor- more about Grenada, especially one. Talk about having fun — dancing, ner and it would be our first We and some fellow cruisers joined singing and drinking — yes! us feel so hundreds and hundreds of local people, and they made Spice Mas much at ease and they were so happy that we celebrated what you with them. It was like being a part of the family, and that’s see and feel every day, everywhere on this island. so much one whom I had met since our arrival greeted me with it came from warmness, saying, “welcome back!” — and I felt that on relating the heart. It felt like we belong here. I could go on and are just all sorts of daily situations, but to put it simply, Grenadians now that we loving and warm people. It has been over five months that we are in are here, and the feeling is still the same, so much so the process of exploring how to prolong our stay. so fine and don’t change; keep that mentality that makes you unique. We love you. it. don’t wait — put up the sail and come. You won’t regret at Port Louis we salute you wherever you are. We will be stationed Marina and hope to see you here. Safe and happy sailing! because she needed a good clean-up, antifoul- because she needed a good Marie Galante We arrived in Florida in mid-December. Now that we have all the Florida in mid-December. We arrived in End in the Bahamas and we sailed to West From Fort Lauderdale fast and we were only beginning. We Six months had gone by so Vieques, Culebra, St. Thomas, and Let’s move on — Puerto Rico, and hurricane season had start- Lucie has family in Guadeloupe for We had a charter booked on our boat that was scheduled that every- This time we stopped at Saba, which we recommend be new to From then on, every island south of Martinique would Grenada. Okay, back to the title of this story: falling in love with of the city The first things that we noticed were the beautiful view …continued from previous page …continued from we take time to we only sail in good conditions, time in the world, and we are meeting new that may be of interest, visit everything can you ask for? the same dream. What more sailors living islands. The fun part so and all of the following the Abacos, Nassau, and it was always summer. were always going south far was that we Discovering so many won- fall or especially winter. No more spring, take wa-a-a-y too long and spectacular places would derful people for a good weather window we sailed to describe here. After waiting the Dominican Republic at Luperon. from the Turks & Caicos to seeing family and friends, all wonder- flew back home for two weeks, It is funny to see how people perceive, ing how we were managing. new style of life. I’m sure that all of and can’t really relate to, our I mean. you boaters understand what for three months. Then St. Martin to the BVI, where we stayed of the islands in between. Mind you, Guadeloupe, stopping at most island right now because we will pass we don’t have to stop at every back eventually. was going back to Canada for seven ed. Luckily for us her cousin care of her house in the meantime. weeks and wanted us to take say? We left the boat at Marina Bas- Hard to refuse, wouldn’t you life again: pool, car, big wash- du-Fort and enjoyed the earthling water or showers. We took this oppor- room and no restrictions on of Guadeloupe. It was also time to take tunity to visit, in depth, all care of ing, waxing, etcetera — you know the drill. at Antigua, January, so we sailed back up to the BVI. We stopped Christmas in which we had not visited in the past, and celebrated it was St. Martin where my daughter was. By the end of February, time to head south again. Galante; we body should visit. And of course we stopped at Marie Dominica could not pass the island for which our boat is named. weeks at was next and then Martinique, where we stayed for three to go around Grande Anse D’Arlet. We rented a car for three days a small bed- the island. We slept one night at the foot of Mt. Pelée in and-breakfast — a real treat. the names of us, with the goal being Grenada. I will spare you all of June, we the islands from Martinique to Grenada. By the end were at St. George’s Lagoon. and help from and the Carenage from the lagoon, the warm welcome JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Thalassia testudinum spend timeatLac’sseagrasssmorgasborddiningon Between tripsbacktotheiroriginsbreed,many Caribbean, butcometoLacBayspecificallyeat. use Laconadailybasis.” Because ofthis,threehundredtofiveturtles out frequentlysothebayisverysuitableforsealife. bays intheCaribbean.Nutrientsarebroughtand degree ofcirculationisunlikeothermangrove-fringed pushed inandflowsoutadeeperchannel.Thishigh action ofwatergoingon.Thewind-drivengets throughout theCaribbean. the past20years,hasconductedresearchonturtles says Dr.RobertVanDam,amarinebiologistwho,for young andtenderjusteatthatmoveon.”So grazing fieldshere.Theyliketheseagrasswhenit’s and butterareseagrassalgae.Theymaintain nutritious seagrass. unless youareaturtle.Thebayholdsbountyof high-performance windsurfing.Lessthrilling,thatis, Lac Bayisalsoknownforsomethinglessthrillingthan competitors likePatunSaragozaandTatyFrans.But windsurfers fromaroundtheglobeandhomegrown an internationaleventattendedbyOlympic-class to theannualDutchAntillesWindsurfingChallenge, take onthewindinsmoothseas.Infact,thisishome surfing, andtouristsflockherebythethousandsto six feetdeep. Depths runshallowwithmuchofthebayonlythreeto green. Violent,churningwavesgivewaytoflatwater. es fromarich,indigobluetoaniridescent,dreamsicle tradewinds. Withinthebay,however,waterchang- blocking aturbulentseafueledbyconstantCaribbean for greenturtles.” tunity forfeedingissogreatatLac.It’sjustamagnet They areevensocializingoutsidethereef.Theoppor- and bunchuptogether.They’reallfathappy. hour ortwoinsidethebaythattheyjustswimout habitat. They’vebeensosuccessfulinfeedingan turtles hangingout.Thisistheirrestinganddigesting snorkeling rightoutsideofLac,you’llseeallthese filiforme Many ofthoseturtleshailfromotherislandsinthe “LacBayisaspecialplace.There’srealpumping “Greenturtlesaremostlyherbivores.Theirbread These conditionsmakeLacaperfectplaceforwind- A “Youcanseethat,”claimsVanDam.“Ifyougo mile-long reefrunsalongmostofitsentrance, is amagnificentlagoonknownasLacBay.A long , manateegrass. the‘WildSide’,Bonaire’srockyeastcoast, , turtlegrass,and Syringodium

below. Andthenthereweretheturtles—layersof incoming swellsmakingforadreamlike,aquaticdance height. Theymovedtotheundulatingrhythmof of purpleandgreenseafansapproachingtenfeetin ily reach100feet.Thebottomwasdottedwithaforest the wavestempered.Visibilityinthesewaterscaneas- the bay’sreefonadaywhenwindswerelowand conservation projectsinBonaire:‘Itopensupawholenewworld’ Inset: STCB’sFunchiEgbreghtswithRedBerger.isamongthecruiservolunteerswhohelpseaturtle Main photo:Ahawksbillturtle.Thenutrient-ladenseagrassofLacBayservestheseturtleswell FAVREAU KEVIN

I tookVanDam’sadviceandsnorkeledjustbeyond by Patrick Holian IN PARADISE TURTLES PATRICK HOLIAN PATRICK —Continuedonnextpage these turtleswell. The nutrient-ladenseagrassofLacBayhadserved with theirdistinctivebeaksanddark-coloredshells. well over100pounds.Hawksbillswerealsopresent snorkel. Therewerebrawny,greenturtlesweighing them. Ispottedmorethan50duringmyhour-long JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 , sail- Kontentu , Patrick Holian is Caribbean Travel & Life, Sailing Earth Island Journal or

“It’s like being part of The Discovery Channel,” part of The Discovery Channel,” “It’s like being collection in “One year we did the netting-data sandy shore with Back at Lac Bay, I walk the adds Berger. “For me, working with the turtles is “For me, working with the adds Berger. benefits. You sail really cool, but there are other lets you meet the to a place and the volunteering know Funchi local people. Otherwise I wouldn’t and hung out with and have gone out to his farm thing to do. You’ve his father. It’s just the right they’ve given you. If given back a little of what not taking advantage you’re a cruiser and you’re you’re missing.” of this, you don’t know what as volunteers,” addsLac entirely with visiting sailors cruisers are here twomanager Nava. “Normally the We even have cruis- to three months, so it’s perfect. again and again.ers who return to volunteer time to contact usJanuary through April is a good surveys aroundsince we are busy doing in-water with the nesting sea- Bonaire. After that, we start for sailors to plan theirson. These are perfect times volunteer.” visit here if they would like to numbers. “Today, Robert Van Dam who is talking PATRICK HOLIAN As I look out over the vast lagoon, I try to imagine For more information on Sea Turtle Conservation When not writing for “If conditions aren’t perfect, we give the hatchlings a aren’t perfect, we give the “If conditions often at the helm of his 14-foot catboat, ing the leeward coast of Bonaire. we only have about 100,000 adult sea turtles in the we only have about 100,000 adult sea turtles in the entire Caribbean Sea, whereas there were probably at least 10 million before Columbus arrived. Can you imagine what places like Lac must have been like? These waters were just teeming with turtles. I expect there could have been 3,000 to 5,000 turtles in the bay here back then.” that time long ago. The water is sparkling gold in the afternoon sun. Suddenly, I spot the silhouetted head of a sea turtle breaking the surface for a quick breath of air. That timely glimpse gives me hope that the turtles will always return to feast at Lac Bay as long as it is well preserved. I know I will always return, simply to see them. Bonaire visit www.bonairenature.com/turtles Magazine order to get an accurate count of the hatchlings. These accurate count of the hatchlings. order to get an the team, at added to the database, but numbers are what is the hatchlings reach the sea to times, helps beginning. start of a perilous says moving obstructions, etcetera,” little help by the beginning face a lot of predators in Egbreghts. “They crabs.” shore birds, fish and of their lives including , which they call home. I found this to be true when I met “Red” Berger who “They are majestic when you swim with them,” Red usually accompanies STCB’s Funchi Egbreghts Volunteers are vital for a grass-roots organization vital for a grass-roots Volunteers are Funchi two paid staff, field specialist “We have only working with the visiting sailors and cruisers who vol- unteer. They are people who are familiar with the sea. They’re usually good swimmers or drive boats or do things that are really helpful for us. And they love turtles because they love the sea.” is in Year Five of a Caribbean cruise with her husband Tom. They own a steel-hulled Endurance 44 ketch, Katana declares Berger. “I would never been able been able to pick out a sea turtle so easily before. Now when I swim from our mooring, I can easily spot a turtle. I know what to look for, so that’s pretty cool. It opens up a whole new world.” to survey the nesting turtles three times per week. They search the beaches of Bonaire’s west coast and those of offshore island, Klein Bonaire, for signs of nesting activity. It takes about 60 days for sea turtle eggs to hatch. When they do, STCB tries to be there in juvenile green turtles in the world.” juvenile green at Lac Bay, In addition to the activities such as STCB. surveys, sea on beach cleanups, water helpers work tracking, and nest monitoring. turtle satellite Nava, “so myself as manager,” explains Egbreghts and like essential for us. But I especially volunteers are Local boys inspect a green turtle during data collection Continued from previous page Continued from STCB is also involved in data collection of sea tur- “In the near future, we’re placing ‘turn around’ “Those beds are too shallow and too busy for “Those beds are too shallow To that end, STCB spearheaded an effort with To that end, STCB spearheaded “The importance of sea grass goes beyond “The importance of sea But there is trouble in paradise. The constant use of in paradise. The constant But there is trouble “They came for the buffet,” says Van Dam smiling, the buffet,” says Van Dam “They came for tles. Twice a year the group captures turtles in Lac tles. Twice a year the group captures turtles in Lac Bay. Before releasing them, the turtles are measured, weighed, photographed, given ID tags and inspected for general health. All this information goes into a database and individual turtles can be tracked over time. Van Dam, who works as a scientific advisor for STCB, has been impressed by some of the results. “The big ‘wow’ factor is the growth rates of these ani- mals. During our data collection we’ve discovered that they’re growing six to eight centimeters (four to five inches) per year. That’s the highest growth rate for buoys to protect other sea grass beds where turtles do buoys to protect other sea grass beds where turtles do feed,” continues Nava. “Currently, windsurfers often turn around in this area as they cruise Lac and step on the grasses in the process. The buoys will warn the windsurfers before they reach this area.” sea turtles to visit,” adds Robert Van Dam. “But sea turtles to visit,” adds Robert it is a great beginning to let people know that these are special places. Sea grass is a nursery for a whole bunch of organisms important to Lac.” Bonaire’s national park organization, STINAPA, Bonaire’s national park organization, Environmental the not-for-profit Progressive beach businesses to Solutions and local Lac Bay “no-go zones” protect the grass. They installed that encircle sea with floating buoys and ropes frequently by swim- grass beds in waters used The boundar- mers, kayakers and windsurfers. to step inside these ies serve as a reminder not vulnerable areas. turtles,” explains Mabel Nava, manager for the turtles,” explains Mabel Nava, Sea Turtle not-for-profit organization, “These beds are Conservation Bonaire (STCB). substrate sedi- important because they retain They also serve as a ment. They clean the water. action. The sea grass buffer to the constant wave all enjoy at Lac.” protects the beaches that we Lac Bay by windsurfers, waders, and other recreation- waders, and other Lac Bay by windsurfers, which can to impact the sea grass beds, ists has begun upon. Once if frequently trodden be easily destroyed signifi- erosion can increase eliminated, shore the local habitat. cantly, upsetting “and the eating’s really good. It’s a nursery ground really good. It’s a nursery “and the eating’s green turtles.” here for Caribbean — JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Crossword Solution 35) YARD 33) SAILS 30) GONERIL 29) WITCH 27) HALF 26) GO 25) 23) SINO 21) ATE 20) IT 17) AFTWARD 15) SLOWS 14) CAM 12) APPROVE 11) IN 7) FOLLOWING 3) PAST 1) PERIGO ACROSS in afavoriteanchorageandjustenjoylife. last week. floating lovenestreadyforromancetosailinduringthe It’s theperfecttimetotouchupvarnishmakeyour storm sailsofhumorandyou’llsailrightonthrough. derstandings couldmakeyourlovelifesqually.Raisethe the endofmonth. projects youareworkingonhadbestbeconcludedbefore week. Youdidn’twhistleforwind,didyou? ing oflate,maymeetsomeroughweatherinthethird life. Butstayoncourseandyou’llreachasafehaven. dirty bottom,andtherecouldbesomesquallsinyourlove deck withacoldie. the endofthismonth.YoumightdowelltojoinCanceron and enjoyit. this willbeadeadcalmmonth!Findgood“beachbook” may bejusttheticket. Not aproblem—loungingaroundondeckwithcoldbeer irons thismonth,andyou’llfeelagenerallackofdrive. the thirdweek. tions. Don’tfret—thetidewillturninyourfavorduring will slowforwardmotiononyourcreativecruisingambi- for allyourrecenthardworkintheboatyard. enjoy it!Treatyourselfwellandsplurgeabitasreward New Yeargetsunderway. in romance,whichwillproveablissfuldistractionasthe Happy NewYear!Enjoyamonthofease.Lieonthehook Sails willbeslackandseasglassyuntilthelastweek. After alltheholidayexcitement,argumentsandmisun- Get towork,sailor;theholidaysareover.Anynewboat Prepare toreef!Romance,whichhasbeensmoothsail- Business andfinancesaresloggingtowindwardwitha The HorseLatitudeconditionsinyourlifewillextendtill Other thanalackofenergyandlackadaisicalattitude, Personal relationshipsandonboardcreativitywillbein As 2010islaunched,adversecurrentsinyourlovelife It’s loveANDlustonthebreezethismonth,sailor,so While boat-businesssailsarebacked,feelfreetoindulge AFTERMOST JANUARY 2010 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER

AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) 10) LOST 9) GLOWING 8) OVERATE 6) TIN 5) SWIMS 4) AO 3) PLACED 2) OF 1) DOWN 47) FACES 46) SEEPS 44) SIT 42) ATOLL 41) AFTER 39) TILLER 37) END 36) SEWS

PELAGIC (22Jun-23Jul) 45) IF 43) OS 40) ILE 38) DATA 36) SEAM 34) SALES 33) SW 32) LARDERS 31) ORDERS 28) LI 25) AFTCASTLE 24) YAWL 23) STORMY 22) NOON 19) RERIG 18) WATCH 16) STOOL 13) PEAK

bela-toon WHY? Leaving onlymeinthemirror. I blinkedandhewasgone, Face brownfromthesun. Blue eyessparkling, I thoughtsawhim. For amoment, Yesterday, I’d liketofindthatboy. Before Ibecomeamemory, Before Ijointheechoes, Before Icrosstheline, Off theripplingsea. As thesun’srayssparkle Sometimes, Iseehiseyes As Isailfromoneislandtothenext, The carefreelaughteroftheislands. Woven intothelaughter, I sometimeshearhisspirit As Iwalkthesedustylanes After agentlerain. There wasarainbowarching In thesoft,warmbreeze. There werewildflowersswaying In thebubblingstream. There werebrowntroutswimming In thelushgreenhills. There werebutterfliesdancing Eyes sparklinglikethesummersky; Skin brownfromtheAugustsun; There wasaboy… Before alllife’sabsurdities; Before jobsandmortgagestaxes; Before funeralsofparentsandlovedones; Before classesanddegrees; Long ago, Why doIsailthisazuresea? Why doIwalkthesedustylanes? For whatamIsearching?

— JohnRowland

P Poets

Island I Island

o s

l

e a

t

n

s

d

A. THODY A. JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Crossword Solution on page 38 Word Search Puzzle solution on page 49 ‘AFTER’ ‘AFTER’ ACROSS lateen-rigged vessel 1) Mediterranean 41 Across present 3) What comes from aft are said to be this 7) Seas coming 11) Not out to 12) Confirm or give sanction 14) Lobe on an engine shaft boat 15) A dirty bottom _____ the 17) Towards the stern 20) That thing 21) Consumed 23) Prefix pertaining to China 25) Farthest astern 26) __ to sea: get underway part of a navel 27) ____ deck: the 41 Across vessel’s gun deck design 29) Sea _____ ketch, an Angelman 30) King Lear’s eldest daughter etcetera 33) Jib, main, mizzen, spanker, horizontally 35) A spar crossing the mast 36) A sailmaker ____ 33 Across Across ___ of the boat 37) The transom is at the 41 39) Dinghy steering device 41) Subject of this puzzle 42) Circular coral island 44) Do this on a chair 46) Slow leaks 47) Compasses’ cards are their ______DOWN 1) Wandering offshore 2) Cat __ nine tails 3) Came in, as in a regatta 4) __tearoa: Maori name for New Zealand 5) A bird flies; a fish _____ 6) Substance now banned from antifouling paint 8) Consumed too much (two words) 9) In phosphorescent seas, the water is ______10) ____ at sea: missing underway 13) The end of a gaff 16) Channel to which backstay can be set up 18) Set a night one on deck in a strange harbor 19) Do this after dismasting 22) Time to take a sextant sight 23) ______Weather: famous yacht or song 24) Boat with mizzenmast set aft of the sternpost 25) An elevation at the stern in square-riggers 28) Symbol for lithium 31) Edicts from the captain 32) Melville and others wrote of the contents of ships’ ______33) A compass point (abbrev.) 34) The budget-minded cruiser looks for these 36) Where two deck planks meet 38) Organized information 40) ____-à-Vache is a small island in 33 Down Haiti 43) Operating system (abbrev.) 45) “__ pigs had wings…” Caribbean Compass 2010

© WdS liDliki hPlbP Word Search Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski Compass Cruising Crossword Cruising Compass Make a New Year’s resolution to be more green in Make a New Year’s resolution puzzle, and when 2010. Start by doing this special of Compass, pass it you’re done reading this issue on or recycle it! JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 © such ascoalandoilareburned. ably absorbsaround50percentofthecarbon dioxideproducedwhenfossilfuels absorb agreatdealofthecarbondioxide. Infact,scientistsbelievethatitprob- the Earth’ssurface.Globalwarmingwould bemuchworseiftheoceandidn’t gases likecarbondioxide(CO let’s lookathowtheoceanplaysapart in thecarboncycle. Global warmingandthegreenhouseeffect arecausedbyexcessgreenhouse Last month,welookedathowthecarbon atomsintheworldarerecycled.Now DOLLY’S DEEP

a cold fireoverher. but herlegswouldn’tobeyandshestoodasifadragonhadbreathed trembled withfearandwouldhaverundownthehillasfastshecould, hunger sheheardalittlemewingbleatfrombehindboulder.Silla dragons havingstoppedforameal. were verysmall,butshelookedaboutthewornpathforanysignsof for herself. she determinedtowalkasfarcouldMorneDiabloandsee over theisland,andinmorning,asitwasSaturdaynoschool, missing lately…” pleasurable fright. the largeronestheycarryofftotheirevil-smellingdens!” get theirclawson.Thesmalleranimalstheyeatwherefindthem, and gobbleupstrayanimalslikecatsdogsanythingtheycan down fromtheirmountaincaves And what’smore,theycome mother’s wideandcomfylap. shivered asshesatonhergrand- Diablo inthisveryisland?”Silla there inMorneDiablo.” this, butallthedragonsareup sisted Silla. really gone,wherearethey?”per- would neverstoppesteringher. story tosatisfySillaorthechild would justhavetomakeupa them off.Butdragons?She creatures justwaitingtocarry scared bystoriesofevilforest she andherfriendslovedtobe loved them,becauseaschildren, she understoodwhychildren matically onTVthesedays.Oh, dragons thatfeaturedsodra- the bloodthirstyvampiresand spooks shecouldhandle,butnot spirits. Granny’sownkindof little bagsofgarlicbythedoorsandwindowstokeepoutnight-prowling such astheSoucouyantandMageNoir,evennow,Grannykept or seenaTV.Allthatthechildrenfearedbackthenwerelocalspirits, mountains andriverswhere,asachild,shehadneverheardofdragons Granny hadbeenbroughtupinthecountryonaCaribbeanislandof tions sheaskedhergrandmotherwerehardfortheoldladytoanswer. answered Silla’sgrandmother.Sillawasonlysixyearsoldandtheques- n The smallbleatcameagain,andthenalittleheadpeepedaroundthe Just asshewasabouttogohomehertummyrumblingwith Silla didn’tgetveryfarasthemountainwasalongwayoffandherlegs That nightSilladreamedaboutdragonsinthemountainthatloomed “Younevercantell,butIhaven’theardofanychildrenwhohavegone “Dotheycarryoffchildrenaswell?”askedSilla,hereyeswidewith “That’swhatI’veheard,child. “YoumeanthisveryMorne “Well, Ididn’twanttotellyou “Butifdragonshavenever d H “Dragons, e m l l SECRETS y o ! by ElaineOllivierre h M o

m

y doux-doux

e

n

i

PROUDLY SPONSOREDBYPETITST.VINCENTRESORT

a

s

m

i

n

e

2

t

i ? Idon’tthinkthey’vereallygoneanywhere,”

) intheatmosphere.Thegasestrapheat closeto s h

e D

s

o

e

l

l

a y . PartOne Where Have Dragons All the Gone? CRUISING KIDS’CORNER by LeeKessell in nextmonth’sissueof leafy bush… Granny’s earsandthenalittleheadpusheditswayoutfromunderthe dragon, andI’vebroughtyousomemilk.”Alittlemewingsoundreached hidden thebabydragon.Sheracedahead,callingout,“I’mback,little was along,hotwalkbutatlastSillarecognizedthebushwhereshehad left thelittlecottageandmadetheirwayslowlyupmountainpath.It lamb suckfromit,asGrannydidn’thaveababy’sbottlewithteat,they eaten. Then,takingsomemilk,acupandcleanpieceofclothtoletthe the path,soshewouldbringithomeandcareforit. believed shewouldfindadeformedlamb,abandonedbyitsmotheron take abottleofmilkandgofeedthebabydragon.Ofcourse,Granny right, andaftertheyhadeatenthebakesfishsheSillawould be ababydragon! clawed feet,glowedonandoffinallthecoloursofrainbow.Ithadto at theend.Everypartoflittlecreature,includingitsshortlegsand had tinywingspressedagainstitssidesandatailwithanarrow’shead squat littlebodywereclaw-likespikesthatroseandfellasitbleated.It like alamb,butrisingfromitsheadandrunningdownthelengthof rock. ItwasthestrangestcreaturethatSillahadeverseen.aface quickly, uselimejuiceorvinegarinstead ofsodawater. calcium carbonatesamplewillwasteaway. Ifyou’dliketoseeithappenmore You shouldseebubblesofcarbondioxide gasrisingupand,eventually,your with acid,leaveapieceofchalkor(dead) coraloreggshellinacupofsodawater. shell. Todemonstratewhathappenswhen calciumcarbonatecomesintocontact calcium carbonate. the futureworkingofcarboncycle. creatures whoseshellsandskeletonsaredestroyedbycarbonicacidwouldaffect up thefoodchain.Andnooneknowshowlossofcoralreefsandothermarine almost certainlycausedbyamoreacidicocean. ones foundontheseabottom.Thenewershellswerethinnerbyaboutone-third, thickness oftheshellsnewforamswithdead Forams alsosinktotheoceanfloorwhentheydiesoitispossiblecompare studied thethicknessofshellstinyanimalscalledforaminifera(forams). material ofcoralreefsandtheshellsmanymarineanimals.Scientistshave there. Carbonicaciddissolvescalciumcarbonate,whichisthechiefbuilding and thesea,whyarescientistsworried? eventually, backintotheair. ocean floor.Somedecayandreleasecarbondioxidebackintothewaterand, plankton die,theysinktotheoceanfloor.Somegetburiedinmudof plankton take manyyears. it comestothesurfaceandescapesatmosphere.Thisprocessmay belt’ ofoceancurrentstowarmerwaterfurthersouthinthetropics.There it dissolvesinnorthernseas,sinksdownandiscarriedonthe‘conveyor Did Grannyfindadragonorlamb?Readtheendofthisexcitingstory Silla gobbleddownherlunchandfidgeteduntilgrandmotherhad And whocouldresistsuchacutecreature?NotSilla,soshehadher Calcium carbonatecomesinmanyforms, likecoral,chalk,marble,andegg- Experiment todemonstratewhathappens whenacidmeets The survivalofthesetinyanimalsisvitaltotheallfurther Too muchcarbondioxideinthewatermakeslargeramountsofcarbonicacid So, ifcarbondioxideisbeingcontinuallyrecycledbetweentheatmosphere The oceanalsocontainslargeamountsofmicroscopicplantplankton( Carbon dioxideismoresolubleincoldwaterthanitwarmso What happenstothecarbondioxidethatisabsorbed? ), whichuseupcarbondioxideinphotosynthesis.Whenthephyto- CaribbeanCompass! took Sillainherarmsandtolditwasall it wastoofar.”Sillabegantosob. in themountainsoIwenttoseeformyself,but you’ve beentoldnotto?” doing takingthatpathtoMorneDiablowhen self, younglady.Forastart,whatwereyou milk totakebackandfeedit!” path upthemountainandIhavetogetsome I’ve foundababydragonlostandhungryonthe “There arenosuchthingsasdragons!” about herstoryofdragonsthedaybefore. daughter. “What?”shedemanded,forgettingall stopped andspunaroundtofacehergrand- bakes andlittlefriedfishforlunchbutshe kitchen. Grannywasjustputtingoutsome Silla gaspedassheburstintotheoldlady’s for her,andranhome. So shehiditbehindabush,toldtowaitthere get veryfarasthebabydragonwastooheavy. to takeithomeandcareforit.ButSilladidn’t picked itupandstaggeredoffwithit,intending arms wrappedaboutitinaninstant.She The oldlady’sheartsoftenedatonceandshe “ButGranny,youtoldmethatdragonslived “Nowjustyousitdownandgetholdofyour- “Butthereare,yousaidso—and “Granny,Granny,I’vefoundababydragon!” phyto- JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 The Why Book of Sailing, So, what do we do when and if a signal does come Scott Welty is the author of That’s what they’ve done. Basically they have wired That’s what they’ve done. Basically they have wired millions of home computers together via the internet to make a giant parallel processing computer. (You can learn more and sign up here: http://setiathome.berkeley.edu/) in? What if we can tell that it’s from 100 light years away? What if they just say, “Stop that”? How will we react as a people if we could really, really know that someone else was out there… And they have radio but no DJs? More wine? Burford Books © 2007. Figure Two, above: Typical graphic showing the ellipti- Figure Two, above: Typical sizes of the orbit, the cal earth orbit. Notice relative sun and the Earth. (Graphic courtesy of University of Tennessee - Physics Dept.) Figure Three, at left: The Earth’s orbit to scale: 6” the long way and 5.999” the short way. Can you see which is which? January by Scott Welty by Scott Welty THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN . PM . AM The Sky in Sky The . PM anyway. At this scale the long axis of the ellipse To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck The SETI project is still out there. For years now Figure Three is the Earth’s orbit drawn to scale. Well, It’s easy to see then that our nearness to the sun The spirit of these diagrams is fine. It shows the Elliptical Orbits Sometimes we learn stuff in school “too much”. 30th - Full Moon 29th - Mars in opposition AND closest to the Earth. JUPITER - An “evening star” all month setting in the JUPITER - An “evening star” EARTH - Would not return my calls. EARTH - Would not return at the beginning of MARS - Rising around 9:00PM VENUS - Nope. Venus will swing around the far side VENUS - Nope. Venus will swing The Planets in January at seeing Mercury this MERCURY - You have a shot Sky Events This Month meteor shower. Look for 1st to 5th - Quadrantids SATURN - Rising between 11:00PM and midnight all SATURN - Rising between 11:00PM 17th - Look for Jupiter and the pretty crescent 15th - New Moon 15th - Annular eclipse of the sun; nicely visible off 3rd - Earth at perihelion. What? Yes, at midnight tried they have been searching the sky for radio signals from intelligent life elsewhere in the universe. For the last ten years they’ve done a clever computer thing. They take in about a kabillion bushels of data every second as they scan the sky. There is no computer big enough to process all that data. But, what if you gave a kabillion home computers one bushel of data? I has little to do with our seasons while our tilt to the sun has everything to do with it. “ellipticalness” of the orbit with the sun at the focus of the ellipse. But, like a lot of astronomy things, the scale is all out of whack. Never mind that if you draw the ellipse on a standard sized piece of paper the size of the Earth is less than the width of the line drawn to represent the ellipse. It’s the ellipse itself I want to talk about. is 6 inches and the shorter axis is 5.999 inches! Neither the sun nor the Earth shows up on this scale the Earth being about 3/10,000 of an inch in diameter and the sun being 3/1000 of an inch. We’re down to individual pixels being bigger than what we want to draw! Somewhere along your journey through junior high or Somewhere along your journey through junior high or high school you probably learned that the orbits of the planets around the sun are elliptical in shape. Johannes Kepler figured this out and Isaac Newton then showed that it had to be so, given what he worked out about gravity. This is all fine but then you see diagrams like Figure Two. This means Mars is fully illuminated by the sun like a This means Mars is fully illuminated by the sun like a full moon, except it’s “full Mars”. west around 7:00 to 8:00 the month and then earlier and earlier as it moves the month and then earlier through Cancer. of the Sun (superior conjunction) on the 11th, mean- of the Sun (superior conjunction) sun for the month. ing it is too darn close to the month. It rises the earliest (so, farthest from the rising month. It rises the earliest 5:00AM. Look east-south- sun) on the 22nd at around in Scorpio. east to the left of the hook increase in meteor activity in the east in the early increase in meteor activity in the east in the early morning hours. Meteors look to be coming from Bootes, which rises around 2:00 month and sitting in Virgo. month and sitting in Virgo. moon setting in the west around 7:00 the coast of Somalia but if you’re sailing there you the coast of Somalia but if you’re sailing there you have other things to watch out for! the Earth is its closest to the Sun. Yep, that happens the Earth is its closest to the Sun. Yep, that happens in the winter. See below. Figure One: Mars on the 29th at 10:30PM. In theory at Figure One: Mars on the 29th at 10:30PM. In theory at its brightest, but the nearness of the nearly full moon makes a day or two later or earlier better viewing JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationaboutthisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s between CaptainandChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamwork We prefercouplesthataremarriedORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. We arelookingforcrew, mainlyteamsintheformofaCaptainandChef/Hostess. Tel. StVincent +7844573407Tel. St Maarten +5995510550 or bymailto:BequiaMarina,P.O.Box 194BQ,PortElizabeth, email: [email protected] CREW VACANCIES! operating TERM CHARTERS, allinclusive,7days. We arethefastestgrowingchartercompany, six destinationsintheCaribbean. TradeWinds CruiseCluboperateafleetofcatamaransacross [email protected] Bequia, StVincent &theGrenadines

—Continuedonnextpage dren’s conceptionleadinguptotherealizationthattheyhadsuper-humanabilities. time travelling,telepathyandvariousmysteriouseventsfromtheofchil- Project arethechildren’sonlycluestouncoveringtheirtrueidentities. tory andmind-blowingrevelations.AsecretpotionthemysteriousChalice sneaky searchforthemothertheylongtoknowleadsthemaJamaicanlabora- future hascaughtupwiththemandTimeasweknowitmayneverbethesame.A scientist, desperatelywantstoprotecthischildrenfromrecklesspast.Nowthe Trinidadian childrenineveryway—orsoitseems.TheirfatherSteven,agenius rather innovative. ing setgoals.Thereisn’tmuchthisbooklacksforitisfunny,imaginativeand two werereviewedintheAugust2009issueof Frances C.Escayg;and Swan Children MACMILLAN’S ISLANDFICTION Caribbean BooksforTeens: born teens,buttoteen-agedexpatriateresidentsandvisitorsaswell. paperback, andabout200pages.TheseshouldbeofinterestnotonlytoCaribbean- and thelegendsfolkloreofCaribbean.Thesixbooksinseriesareall and girlsaged12to15,withnovellasbasedaroundfantasy/science-fictionthemes 2006 theybeganactivatingplanstolaunchabrand-newfictionseriesaimedatboys have publishedbooksforandabouttheCaribbeaninallsubjectsatlevels.In for theCaribbean.DuringthattimetheycreatedMacmillanCaribbeanimprintand

AMERON ABC3TINFREESELF POLISHING ANTIFOULINGPAINT THE CRUISINGSAILOR`S CHANDLERY SINCE 1990 CORNER: MIRANDA C T TEL: 58(281)265-3844-E-MAIL :[email protected] At thebeginning,plotwascenteredongenetics.Itslater Twins,AdaandEvanBrijlal,eatjunkfood,fightatschoolarenormal The ChaliceProject Time Swimmer Time Swimmer Three ofthebooksinseriesarereviewedhere.Theothers For 40years,Macmillanhasbeenoneoftheleadingpublishersschooltextbooks E O L : R

5 N 8 BOOK REVIEWSBYCHERIANGORDON E

R (

2 M : 8 , byMaureenMarks-Mendonca; I 1 R isthestoryofayoungJamaican,Luke,whobefriendsanancient ) , byGeraldHausman A

2 N 6 D A 5 , byLisaAllen-Agostini - Delroy intheMarogKingdom 3 & & GUARAGUAO,PUERTO LA CRUZ,VENEZUELA 8

G 4 4 U

A

- R

A

E G - M U A A O character’s life,orahelpinghandachiev- cally representobstaclesandsignsina ous gods.Thegodsinthenovelettetypi- between LukeandOdysseusthevari- ters, bydescribingtheconflictinplot intelligence andstrengthofthecharac- the readergainasenseofcourage, Furthermore, thewriteralsotriestohave these varioushistoricalevents. ery, thewritergivesacolourfuledgeto ing. Byusingvisualandsoundimag- youths. Althoughitishistory,isn’tbor- say, notknownbymanyoftoday’s tory longforgottenor,moreaccurateto book wasitsemphasisonCaribbeanhis- table fantasy. spice thatblendsfieryhistorywithdelec- together inapepperpotstewoffantastic and lizardsthataregods,allmixed The novelisfullofspidersthataremen Martinique in1902,tonameanother. Pelée volcanothatkilled28,000peoplein Cyparis, theonlysurvivorofMount the pirate,HenryMorgan,forone;and time, rightingwrongsandsavinglives— Together theytravelthroughCaribbean storytelling seaturtlecalledOdysseus. I L Tome,thegreatestthingaboutthis

, :

P x U Caribbean Compass Escape fromSilkCottonForest a E n R T a O d , byHelenWilliams.Thelatter u L m A

C a R r i U n Z e , @

.

V c E Legend ofthe N a n E Z t v U . E n L e A , by t

JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 S D N A L SSLANDS II

E HHE TT

D N O Y EYOND EEYOND “James Mitchell was one of the longest serving Leaders in modern “James Mitchell was one of — The Rt. Hon. Sir John Major, Prime Minister, United Kingdom to read. “Extremely well written, very informative and very easy — The Rt. Hon. Jean Chretien, Prime Minister, Canada to be in the “Indeed a book worth reading by all West Indians and ought Law of the Sea, — Judge Anthony Lucky, International Tribunal for the interesting reading. “Whatever one’s political bent, this book should provide — Jam Rock Magazine Available in Bequia at Noah’s Arkade and the Bequia Bookstore, in Mustique Available in Bequia at Noah’s Arkade and the Bequia Bookstore, at Basil’s General Store, or on the Internet at amazon.co.uk and amazon.com at Basil’s General Store, or on the Internet at amazon.co.uk BB democracy. This book tells you why.” The hours I spent with it in my hands were very enjoyable.” piece of work.” national, university and school libraries… an excellent The Hague the politician. It simply It gives an insight into the human family man as well as and tells the story of the life of a man: the circumstances, experiences islands’ and onto decisions which came together to propel him ‘beyond the the international stage.” . The story also contains per se I am going to be a little biased here It’s about growing up, the choices that the power surging within will destroy him and all he holds dear. Can he over- come all obstacles and prove that he is worthy of the name Marshal? and say that I think this is the best book of the series. The book is dramatic, funny, mysterious, imagina- tive, and every other adjective known to man that could describe a well-written novelette. A tale of unknowing faith, dif- ferent worlds, deep understanding, pain and triumph is the root of this story that culminates in everlasting happiness and redemption. In gathering a personal understanding of this novelette, one could say it’s figurative, and if read between the lines its true story unfolds: the story of life. we are faced with, right and wrong, trials and temptations. One could say that becoming the Marshal is Marassa’s life’s purpose and, in reality, everyone has to plot his or her own course to becoming a Marshal near-death drama and the emotions that go along with it. Marassa uses those feel- ings to excel, and so it should be done, for sorrow carries no way forward. It’s as a part of the Island Fiction series, to follow the the Island Fiction series, to as a part of , Chalice Project, Continued from previous page Continued from Night of the Indigo by Michael Holgate Marassa, a 15-year-old Jamaican These books are available at bookstores or from www.Macmillan-caribbean.com High School, is currently Cherian Gordon, a recent graduate of Bequia Community I expected The I expected The boy, is catapulted into a wondrous boy, is catapulted into a wondrous His world of Natural Mysticism. and no twin brother Wico is dying him. doctor on earth can save war- Guided by Kundo, the mystic and rior, Marassa transcends time dimen- matter into an unknown If he sion, a planet called Orunda. as a accepts his responsibility he can Marshal or Warrior of Light clutch- rescue his brother from the must es of death. But first he make a spine-tingling journey, mind confront the challenges of and spirit and meet the beautiful and exotic princess Ayoka. As his mystic gifts awaken, Marassa must learn to master the very power that threatens, before the Night of the Indigo Moon. If he doesn’t, then residing in England. Caribbean folklore theme of the Caribbean folklore in the series, but it other books the only common doesn’t. Actually has with the oth- aspect this book scenes were set on ers was that its island; other than a Caribbean merely science fic- that, it was me wrong though, it tion. Don’t get — great was still a pretty good read for passing the time. story. the basics of everyday life in a compellingly beautiful — JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 Ingredients Just Five materialistic societyencouragestheacquisitionof to findthecordlessphonewhenyouneedit.Our make millions. ing youinstantlytofindwherelastleftit.I’ll on boardandtheyarnislefttotrailbehind,allow- suction cupisfirmlyattachedtoanycordlessphone at 50feetandrunningupto200inlength.The attached toit.Icanmarketvariousmodelsstarting length ofbrightlycolouredorganicwoollenyarn are kindtotheenvironment.Thecostisaffordable. son over50willwantone.Theproductionmaterials deal ofresearchandpersonalexperience.Everyper- Cooking canoftenbeanexperiencesimilartotrying It isasmallrubberorplasticsuctioncupwith I haveanewinvention.Itisengineeredfromgreat canned food from allaround theworld The bestsupplierofchilled, frozen and by RossMavis truism isthatweneverownstuff;stuffownsus. phemous. Ourlivesarefilledwithtoomuchstuff.One the Zenofsoyproductsorsomethingequallyasblas- lief andshuffledoff,mumblingundermybreathabout How couldIhavemissedit?shookmyheadindisbe- the peeler,andthereitwas.Rightoutinopen. had justclosedafterrummagingaroundinsearchof frustration, mywife,Willa,pulledopenthedrawerI life ofme,Icouldn’tfindit.Toaddembarrassmentto peeling fruitandvegetables.Itisfantastic.But,forthe red-handled potatopeeler,theonlydeviceIusefor needs stirring.TheotherdayIwasunabletolocatea hyperventilate ifIcan’tlaymyhandsonitwhenfood stick carvedfromlignumvitaehardwood.Ialmost never canfindwhenit’sneeded.Ihaveafavoritestir- will astoundyou. considering allyourstoredingredients,thenumber and whimsical,youhaveinyourgalley.Evenwithout ber alltheequipment,toolsandgadgets,bothuseful other containerthatyoucancookin.Addtothisnum- pans, bakingdishes,casseroles,Dutchovensandany iment sometime.Countyourcollectionofpots,frying day orforanysinglemeal.Trythisenlighteningexper- we couldeverpossiblyuseinonemonth,letalone more ingredients,equipment,toolsandgadgetsthan There alwaysisthatfavoritetoolorutensilyou & wholesale Supermarket for ourvaluedGrenadinescustomers to theplaneandferryservices Don't forget,wedeliverdaily Ocar (NexttoGYE) New inBequia: E-mail: [email protected] St.Vincent &the Grenadines Calliaqua

NEW OUTLET! VISIT OUR

seek [email protected] incorporating thecream.Enjoy. chops andmushrooms.Reducetheheatslightlywhen the stove.Usemedium-highheatwhencooking vegetable ofyourchoice. mushrooms, servingwithpotatoesorriceandagreen sauce isbubblingnicely.Spoonoverchopsand return panundergrill.Watchcloselyandservewhen juices. Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste with sherryandstirmustardcreamintopan browned andchopsarecookedthrough.Sprinkle and cookanother7to8minutesuntilmushroomsare chops andaddmushroomstopan.Returnbroiler about 8to10minutesuntilnicelybrowned.Turn per. Placethechopsinbroilerpanandgrillfor oil. Seasonmushroomsandchopswithsaltpep- ly withcanolaoil.Lightlyspraymushroomsthe sample ofonesuchrecipe. Good foodcanbemadewithfiveingredients.Hereisa found intoday’skitchenorgalleyisalsoapriority. cated. Availabilityofingredientsanditemscommonly provide recipesinourcookbooksthatarenotcompli- on toast.However,WillaandIhavealwaystriedto involved thanasimpleegg,boiledinwaterandserved stages ofpreparationandcookingaremore essary. Granted,somedishesmayinvolveseveral lives bytryingtomakethemmorecomplexthannec- track downinthegalley!Toooftenwecomplicateour What arefreshingthought;onlyfiveingredientsto year. Andeachrecipecontainsonlyfiveingredients. England witharecipeforeachmonthofthecoming Willa gavemerecently.Itwasafoodcalendarfrom If youhaveanycookingquestions,don’thesitateto This dishcanalsobepreparedinaskilletontopof sLine abroilerpanwithaluminumfoil.Spraylight- 3/4 Cup(150ml)whippingcream 1 Tablespoon(15ml)grainyDijonmustard 2 Tablespoons(30ml)sherry 2 Cups(500ml)small,wholemushrooms 2 largeporkchops Chops andMushroomsinSherryCream You canimaginemydelightwhenIopenedagiftthat my keytosuccess Gourmet Foodis Christian Fredriksson,Chef,Sweden Cruiseship Terminal Shop 118Kingstown in thekitchen

CALL 456 2987

YOUR ORDER!

TO PLACE JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 0 ! A 3 ! T 6 ! N 8 Z S

A S 0 R Z E 3 4 U I C

A ) C T 4 P S U 8

E S 7

( R

: G - l O I

e A BBIG SUCCESS!!! TTel: (784) 430 8630 I A R I Just one year after opening, our E St. Vincent & the Grenadines affordable prices, high quality and PIZZA and LASAGNE to take away! Z famous throughout the Grenadines. Mulzac Square • Union Island CCIAO PIZZA Z Come and enjoy the best Italian pizza, I welcoming staff have made CIAO PIZZA Open from 11am to 2 pm – 5pm to 10pm prepared with love by the Chef “La Maria”. PPIZZERIA - RESTAURANT lasagne, pasta, daily fresh fish and seafood, Located in front of the main wharf at Clifton

MARGO EGGINTON Both of the recipes above will taste much better if Both of the recipes above will taste much better if And what about a salad from white cabbage? Here Krautsalat 1/2 large white cabbage 1 teaspoon salt Juice of one lemon or lime, or 2 Tablespoons vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 onion cut into small pieces 2 tablespoons of butter melted till hot, OR 5 strips Quarter the cabbage, cut out the core, take off the Put the shredded cabbage with the salt in a bowl and Add the vinegar or lemon juice, sugar, and the Melt the butter till it starts foaming, or fry the Tell me how you like it! 7 whole cloves 1 piece of cinnamon anise 2 pieces of star 2 teaspoons flour 1/2 cup of water goose fat (if available) 5 Tablespoons take off the cut out the core, Quarter the cabbage, Cut the onions into pieces. and take out the core. Peel the apple, quarter it, with the sugar and heat Put the oil in a large pot of apples, and stir quick- Add the onions and pieces and immediately add the Next add the red cabbage, cinnamon and star Add the water, salt, cloves, the water till all the In a cup, mix the flour with they are prepared in the morning or a day before, and they are prepared in the morning or a day before, and just heated up again for dinner. But if you prepare the cabbage a day before consuming, then keep it in the fridge. comes the recipe: streaky bacon cut into small pieces and heated up in a frying pan till crispy and the grease swims in the pan, OR 1 Tablespoon good mayonnaise dirty leaves from the outside, leave the quarter head together, and cut the cabbage in very thin strips, about 1 to 2 mm thick. knead it with your fist and knuckles energetically for about 3 to 5 minutes. If the cabbage is fresh, then its juice will appear. Very good! Here you can exercise boxing; it means knead hard! The better you knead, the softer the cabbage will become. onion. Stir all up, and leave it for half an hour, maybe in the fridge. streaky bacon. Pour it (the bacon pieces with all the fat) over the salad, and stir all nicely. dirty leaves from the outside, leave the quartered head the outside, leave the quartered dirty leaves from strips, about cut the cabbage in small together, and 2 to 3 mm thick. pieces. Then cut the apple into thin melts and starts to get it, stirring until the sugar the heat and DO NOT LIGHT brown. Now reduce STOP stirring. ly for a short time. its nice colour. vinegar to give the cabbage reduce the heat as low as anise. Stir, cover the pot, about 20 to 30 minutes, possible, and let simmer for until tender. it to the cabbage, and stir lumps are gone. Then add to thicken the mixture. by Angelika Gruener . It needs to ferment for at . It needs to ferment Angelos

am from Germany, and the North Americans gave and the North Americans am from Germany, and I am “Krauts”. I know why, us the nickname of cab- that. We really do eat a lot not angry about Red Cabbage 1 small red cabbage 1 onion 1 apple 5 Tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon sugar 3 Tablespoons vinegar 1 to 2 Cups water 1 teaspoon salt We enjoy this Bavarian Cabbage with mashed pota- When the cabbage is tender, add the vinegar. In a cup, mix the flour with the water till all the Add salt and water, stir, put a lid on, reduce the heat Add the cabbage, and stir till everything is mixed up Add the onions and caraway seeds, and stir quickly. Cut the onions into pieces. Put the oil in a large pot with the sugar and heat Bavarian Cabbage of a large one) 1 small white cabbage (or half 5 Tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon sugar 1 onion seeds 1 heaped teaspoon caraway 1 teaspoon salt 1 to 2 Cups water 2 Tablespoons vinegar 2 teaspoons flour (approximately) 1/2 Cup of water the core, take off the Quarter the cabbage, cut out The following recipes are easy to make onboard, and The following recipes are easy If cabbage is available for a good price, we make available for a good price, If cabbage is

I CRUISING WITH CABBAGE CRUISING WITH toes and two fried eggs per serving. This also tastes very nice with some bacon. lumps are gone. Then add it to the cabbage, stirring to thicken the mixture. The quantity of flour depends on how much liquid you have with the cabbage. as low as possible, and let simmer for about 20 to 30 minutes. nicely, about 2 minutes. The onions will get brown. (If they get black, the fire was too hot — throw everything away and start again!) it, stirring until the sugar melts and starts to get it, stirring until the sugar melts and starts to get LIGHT brown. Now reduce the heat and DO NOT STOP stirring. dirty leaves from the outside, leave the quartered head dirty leaves from the outside, leave the quartered head together, and cut the cabbage in small strips, about 3 mm thick. they really taste nice. You should try them. they really taste nice. You sauerkraut aboard sauerkraut aboard and in We have done this in Venezuela least six weeks. I can give the recipe, the Pacific. If anyone is interested salad recipe given below. which is as easy as the Contact me at [email protected] bage, not to mention our famous sauerkraut. In mention our famous sauerkraut. bage, not to ten-kilo bags. we buy cabbage in Germany, in autumn then we are gone within two weeks, The first ten kilos ten kilos, which last a bit longer. buy the next JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Call (784)456-2602 and more.December2009Openingofanewcoffeeshopbythesea. Basil’s isacollectionofbeautifulbamboofurniture,contemporarypiecesfromAsiaandbeyond, AT BASIL’S: Call(784)457-2713. some ofthebestonisland.Nowofferingfullcateringservices. conditioned, youwillenjoycocktailsmostdelightful,thestaffwelcomingandmealsare BASIL’S BAR: Visitors toStVincent areinvitedto: efficiently arranged.Call(784)488-8407. pieces, homefurnishings,fabulouslightingaccessoriesandmore.Shippingiseasily Across Forever hasamagnificentcollectionoffurniturefromAsiaandbeyond,contemporary ACROSS FOREVER: Call (784)488-8407. Imported cigarsandanunusualcollectionofbooksnottobemissed.Fine foodsinParadise. Store. Bountifullystocked withfineFrench wines,cheesefromEurope,gourmetjamsandsauces. BASIL’S GREAT GENERAL STORE: take home.Basil’sBoutiquealsoofferssilverandgemstonejewelry. Elegant islandeveningandplayfuldaywear. For women,menandchildren,pluslotsofT-shirts to BASIL’S BOUTIQUE to attendtheWednesday NightJumpUpandBBQ.Call(784)488-8350orVHF68. Lunch 11:00am-6pm,andDinner7:30untillate.CometoBasil’sforcocktailsanytimeplan Blues Festival takes placeJanuary27-February beginsat8:00am. 10,2010.Breakfastservice catch upontheweb.Basil’sBarishomeofonlyBluesFestival intheCaribbean.TheMustique the bestbeefburgerinCaribbean.NowequippedwithWIFI,youcanenjoysunsetcocktailsand of Basil’sBarinMustiqueisallthatandmore:offeringfreshseafood,lobsterseason,steaks Best Barsin1987byNewsweekandtodaylivesuptothattradition.Recently renovated,thenewface BASIL’S BARANDRESTAURANT: Visitors toMustiqueareinvitedto: Read inNextMonth’s

Panama CanalWithout Panic So Much,Little:SanBlas A GrenadinesDiving Diary Mustique Visit Basil’sinMustique orSt.Vincent Newly opened full service SPA locatedinVilla Newlyopenedfullservice acrossfromYoung Island.AlsoAt www.basilsbar.com [email protected]

LocatedinKingstownan18thcenturybuildingnamedCobblestone.Air WE SHIPAROUNDTHEWORLD! … andmuchmore! : Fabrics asbrighttheseaandlightair... perfectforislandjoy. Basil’s Bar ImaginedecoratingyourhomewithantiquesfromBaliandIndia. Basil’s BarinMustiquewasnamedoneoftheWorld’s Ten There is nothing general about Basil's Great General There isnothinggeneralaboutBasil'sGreatGeneral Compass : vitamin C. ingredient ofChineseFiveSpicesandsomecurrypowders. are usedbyFrenchandItaliancooksinfishsaucesmayonnaise.Fennelisan has adelicateaniseedflavorandisoftenusedtoseasonfishbroths.Fennelleaves eaten, andtheseedsareusedforflavoring.Theleavescanbeasagarnish.Fennel edible anditisconsideredbothherbspice.Theswollenleafbase,orbulb, aboard!), withanerectcylinderofbrightgreen,smoothleaves.Everypartfennelis perennial rootstockandcangrowtofivefeettall(notexactlysuitableforgrowing a nurseryinAranguez,Trinidad. availability, butitisworthseekingoutatspecialtyshops.Ifoundminegrowing to awhitecloth.Pickfreshleavesandharvest thebulbsasneeded. four monthscollecttheflowersbefore seedsripen.Whendry,shaketheon do notplantthesetwoherbsclosetogether astheirflavorswillbedulled.Afterabout warning: fennelwillcross-pollinatewith dill weed,so Fennel doesn’trequiremuchattention or water.A seeds aninchandahalfdeepinwell-worked soil. all that’snecessaryfortheaveragehousehold. Plant other plants.Afewplantsabout20inches apartare place itwherewillnotshadeorinterfere withyour Cool beforeserving. for 45minutes.Uncoverandbake10more into agreasedcakepanandbakecoveredat350°F egg atatime.Slowlystirintheflour.Spoonmixture stirring inthesugar.Removefromheat.Mixone and fennelpieces.Simmerforhalfanhourbefore longer toletcheeseturngoldenbrown. Cover dishwithfoilandbakeat350°Ffor45minutes.Uncover15minutes choose. Coverwithmilk.Placemoreslicesontopandcovergratedcheese. ovenproof dishandgivethemadashofnutmegsalt,hotpepperifyou or broccoli. with roastedmeatsorfowl,tosssteamedvegetablessuchasgreenbeans to anovenproofdishandbakeuncoveredfor15minutesat400°.Servewarm hour. Seveasaspreadforrotiorbread. salt, andoil.Wraptightlyputinanovenproofdish.Bakeat350°Fforhalf increase theeater’slifespan. hunger —greatfordieters.Itisevenreputedtostimulatestrengthandcourage, still usedinIndiaasanafter-dinnerbreathfreshener.Fennelisalsothoughttocurb Puritans chewedtheseedsduringtownorchurchmeetings,andfennelare times thisherbwashungabovedoorstowardoffevilspirits.EarlyNewEngland curing nearsightedness.Fennelwasonceusedtoincreasebreastmilk.Inmediaeval and stomachcramps.Ancientsbelievedfennelseedhelpfulineyesight,particularly known totheancientGreekswhouseditasadigestiveremedy;willreducegas climate permits.Fennelprefershotdry,sunnyconditions,yetcanadapt.Itwaswell Finding Fennel Fennel containsmanganese,calcium,potassium,magnesium,phosphorus,and Fennel isanattractiveadditiontomyherbgardenandspiceshelf.Ithasathick, Fennel isanherbthatisn’tusedmuchintheCaribbeanbecauseofitslimited Since fennelgrowssotallandcansurvive foryears, For theGardener In asuitablepot,scaldthemilkandstirinrice 2 to3Tablespoonsbaker’sflour 1 Tablespoonbutter 4 eggs 1/2 Cupbrownsugar 2 fennelbulbs,peeledandchoppedsmall 1 Cupcookedrice 2 Cupsmilk Rice andFennelCake Slice fennelbulbandpotatoesverythinly.Placehalfoftheslicesinagreased 1/2 Cupgratedcheddarcheese 1 Cupmilk 1/2 hotpepper,seededandminced(optional) salt totaste pinch gratedfreshnutmeg 1 fennelbulb 2 poundsIrishpotatoes,washedclean 4 Tablespoonsbutter Potato andFennelCasserole In abowl,stirfennelsliceswithoilandvinegaruntiltheyarecoated.Transfer 1 Tablespoonbalsamicvinegar 1 to2Tablespoonsoil(canolapreferred) 2 fennelbulbs,sliced Roasted Fennel Place peeledgarlicbulbsandslicedfennelonapieceoffoiladdchives,pepper, 1 Tablespoonoil(canolapreferred) pinch ofsalt 1/2 hotpepper,seededandminced(optional) 1 bunchchives,chopped 2 fennelbulbs,sliced 3 headsgarlic,peeled Roasted GarlicandFennel Fennel originatedaroundtheMediterranean,andisnowgrownworldwidewhere THE SPICELOCKERBYSHIRLEYHALL It’s Worth JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 ! The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of are now back as DVDs. REMEMBER restaurants and hotels. Street’s videos, first made in 1985,

Street’s guides are timeless. Street’s Guides and DVDs are available NEW! With all these updates readily available, Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine information on tracking and securing for a storm. ☛ Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com departments put out a free annual guide for bars, infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in marine trade guide every year, which is much more DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/ Rocks don’t move — or if they do they are shown on at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s HURRICANE TIPS! Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. • “Transatlantic with Street” documents a sailing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours • “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour • “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour • “Streetwise 1 and 2” give tips that appeared in the popular video Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and southwest coast of Ireland

The Prophet . The food looks scrump- aahhs and oohs By the time all the guests have eaten and left, all the I’ve learned what Larston’s “special ingredient” is There’s a special atmosphere. This evening there are There’s a special atmosphere. the guests have arrived Just before sunset most of Glenroy, Vee, Karen and Larston adding the special ingredient said: work is LOVE made visible. Enjoy! dishes done, the garbage collected, the boats loaded dishes done, the garbage collected, the boats loaded up with equipment, utensils, pots and pans, it’s late and dark dark dark. The boat ride back to Union goes under starry skies. that makes his food so good. It’s just like everyone wants to eat on shore. It’s time to head for to eat on shore. It’s time everyone wants The potatoes start preparing the food. the beach and then cut and grilled. get boiled first (over a fire), lobsters. Vee, Larston and Glenroy starts cleaning the Garlic butter is I start cutting up all the vegetables. and it takes a quite a one of the main ingredients, will need. while to grate by hand all we food and sharing the two four others also preparing have enough fruit, they grills. If one person doesn’t does. Everyone is in a good borrow from someone who bunch making dinners for mood. It’s a happy, lively runs their own “busi- more than 20 people. Everyone together. Nice! ness” but they are all working tables. It’s always a and found places at the picnic platters of lobsters and pleasure to present the huge hear all the It’s heartwarming to tious and smells even better. appreciate. There is a fes- make things people like and No one goes away hun- tive atmosphere on the beach. gry, that’s for sure. are a familiar I’ve read that “work is I’ve read that “work is Velocity II Lørdag The Prophet Vee (and for a while I) has made the AM was right. When I told her where and was right. When I told her

The days start EARLY. Larston and his nephew By late afternoon we have visited three boats and Lunchtime. We make it right there on the water, When we get to the Cays we raft up with the others Then it’s off to Petite Martinique to pick up the fresh Larston and his boat I close my eyes and melt with the taste of barbecued and melt with the taste of I close my eyes

In Kahlil Gibran’s Backstage at Larston’s Lobsters Larston’s at Backstage Glenroy are down at the harbor in Union just after the Glenroy are down at the harbor in Union just after the sun comes up, cleaning their boat and getting it ready. By 8:30 or 9:00 love made visible”. Both Larston and all the others love made visible”. Both Larston and all the others who run the barbecues in the Cays have given plea- sure to many through the years with their activities on the beach. Last season I got to go “backstage” for a few weeks and see what all goes into creating these special meals. have orders for eight dinners. Sometimes people want have orders for eight dinners. Sometimes people want to have the meals delivered to their boat. But today rafted up. Food gets passed around to the others rafted up. This really is a day on the water (no biminis here). who also offer barbecues but got there earlier than us, who also offer barbecues but got there earlier than us, and we wait our turn to approach the newly arriving yachts. Especially since the Cays became a marine park, all the people offering different services to the visitors have devised a system of who gets to approach whom and when. lobsters from the fishermen Larston has fishing for lobsters from the fishermen Larston has fishing for him there, then it’s over to Mayreau to pick up a huge sack of charcoal. rounds of the grocery stores and fresh produce booths rounds of the grocery stores and fresh produce booths to get all the vegetables, fruits, garlic, spices and everything else we will need for the day and to make all the dinners. Sometimes they know ahead of time “approximately” how many dinners there will be if people have ordered in advance. But most often they just have to guess at it — and it’s a long way to the closest grocery store once we have gotten to the Cays. what I was having for dinner she said, “You lucky what I was having for dinner are to die for!” She was person; Larston’s lobsters his special ingredient is right. And I ask Larston what and he smiles…. lobster. It seems to just dissolve in my mouth. I’m on to just dissolve in my mouth. lobster. It seems Cays. There’s a mound of the beach in the Tobago and me. The garlic pota- lobster in front of my friends that doesn’t usually toes are heavenly. For someone seem to get enough of like cooked vegetables, I can’t trees whisper against the them. Around me the palm lick the shore. An iguana sky and the waves softly few yards from the picnic runs through the bushes a candles on the tables are tables. As the light fades, the than this? Carolyn on lit. Can one have it any better Windborne III by Karen Kleppa by Karen sight to many around the Tobago Cays and Union sight to many around the couple times across the Island. Having crewed a Belgian boats, Larston Atlantic on both Swedish and doing barbecues in the was one of the first to start What started as helping Cays some ten years ago. special for their charter skippers create something guests has caught on. JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, in theLloydsmarket. able tointroduceboatownersspecialistbrokers with brokersandunderwritersatLloydsam business for47years.Ihavedevelopedarapport McIntyre Bros.Ltd. TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL I havebeenconnectedwiththemarineinsurance email: [email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 e-mail: [email protected] Outboard Engines2HP-250HP “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. Duty-Free EnginesforYachts insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. FAX: (473)4442899 insurance. Youneverknowhowgood Parts -RepairsService www.street-iolaire.com Myclaimssettlementrecord Insurance Marine cannot bematched. Dear Grenada Laura Fletcher,MAYAG safely inGrenada. worthless ifourclientsdonotfeeltheycanremain try. Allourmarketingandpromotionaleffortsare enforcement officersisagreatbenefitforourindus- to havesuchaglowingtestimonyGrenada’slaw factor whenthoseonyachtsdecidewheretogo,and and MAYAGknowthatsafetysecurityareaprime turn anegativeincidentintopositiveone.Grenada munication andinformationasheclearlymanagedto and teamfortheeffortstakentofollowupwithcom- the relevantauthorities. sought todrawthepublishedletterattentionof Marine andYachtingAssociationofGrenada(MAYAG) the negativeitemsareshared.Mindfulofthis, particular DetectiveGarciaandhisteam.Sooftenonly Compass II Dear given themixedandnon-conformingexperiences we the contradictinginformationyoufind onlineand import regulationsandfeesintheCaribbean withall would beachallengetowriteanarticle aboutdog procedure “right”,nomatterhowhard youtry.It who hasn’tyetgottenbacktous. months? Questionsweaskedinane-mail toDr.King, did thisamountrisesosteeply inafew Since whenaregovernmentfeesnegotiable? Andhow down fromtheEC$150heinitiallywantedtocharge. without areceipt.Thatamounthadbeennegotiated twice asmuchtheamountfourmonthsagoand dog, noofficialpermit.WehadtopayhimEC$95— was it.Noscanningofthemicrochip,notouching approved” plusthedateononeofsheetsandthat wrote somethinglike“veterinaryinspectedand looked atDarwin,glancedthroughhispaperworkand brought himto from VieuxFort,orderedbytheCustomsofficial,and went toshoreagainandpickedupanagriculturalguy back fromher. Soufriere andtoconfirmthecost.Weneverheard to seewhetherallformalitiescouldbedonein ernment vetincharge,Dr.King,weeksbeforearriving to St.Luciafromthesouth.Wehade-mailedgov- cess withourdog,butinSoufrierethistime,arriving and wewouldcomeback. in. Plus,wenowhadagoodexperienceinSt.Lucia through allthehassleandtimetocheckourdog professional mannerandwedidn’tregretgoing permit, allforthepriceofEC$45.Allwasdoneina scan hismicrochip,checkpaperworkandissuea ment vetcametoourboat, months ago.Atthattime,inRodneyBay,agovern- ed intoSt.Luciaandwedidsosuccessfullyfour in. Dogsarenowallowedtobe(temporarily?)import- another unsatisfactoryexperiencecheckingDarwin ences tohimafewweeksago. a copyofthelong,explanatorye-mailourexperi- thing back,wetriedourluckwithMr.Duffy.Wesent Antiguan agriculturedepartmentwithouthearingany- our JollyHarbourexperiencetothechiefof abma.ag. Havingwrittenandsentahugeletterabout who experiencedproblemstocontacthimatinfo@ really clarifyanything,butheinvitedyachtspeople Barbuda MarineAssociation.Hiscommentsdidn’t from JohnJ.Duffy,PresidentoftheAntigua& from otherdogowners.Wealsoappreciatethereaction issue. InGrenadaIgotquiteafewpositivereactions import ourdogDarwinintoAntiguainyourNovember FFORUM RREADERS' fortheirkindwordsintheNovemberissueof MAYAG wishestopubliclythankDetectiveGarcia So, wefeelitisimpossibletodothisdog check-in An hourafterfinishingourownformalities,Mark A weekago,wehopedtogothroughthesamepro- At themoment,weareinSt.Lucia,wherehad Thanks againforpublishingmyletterabouttryingto MAYAG wouldliketothankthecrewon O E Compass Compass R abouttheRoyalGrenadaPoliceForceandin A U D , , M E Irie R to“see”ourdog.Thisperson S '

Irie , toinspectDarwin, S/V Cheetah Dear Iolaire Don Street Many thanks, heard amegayachtberthhasbeenestablished. to theSt.George’s,Bermudablow-up,aswehave [email protected]. and/or suggestionsonimprovingthemtomeat charts: Dear Yacht FreetoBe Joe andMercia us aswell! of thinghappening.Itjustsuckstohaveithappen secure becausetherearenumerousstoriesofthiskind heavy chain.Weareveryvigilantaboutkeepingthings because wehaditlockedtotheyachtwithquitea an awfullongtime!Hewasnotabletotakethedinghy dark —hemusthavebeenabletoholdhisbreathfor away. Tryaswemight,couldnotseehiminthe got afright,lefthiswetshirtinthedinghy,andswam swum outtous,andwastryingstealourdinghy.He thing happened.Joewokeuptodisturbaguywhohad anchored outinLeMarinbay,andalmostthesame at nightwhenwelockup.Nowbringthatintoo! This boxofshoeshappenstobetheonlythingleftout Luckily hewasdisturbedbeforemadeuphismind. shoes inpairs,perhapstoseewhichoneshewanted. open, andtheboarderhadneatlylinedupallJoe’s at theentrancetoyacht,belowsteps.Thiswas large plasticboxcontainingourshoesisnormallykept eaten —wefoundthepeelswereallbananas!A nately theonlythingthatwasactuallytakenand were gettingclosertofindingtheoffender. this wasnotthefirsttimehadhappened,andthey them afairlygooddescriptionoftheguy.Apparently and theyinturnreportedittothepolice.Wedidgive picture ofhim,butdidreportthistothemarinastaff, was afirearm),hebegantorun.Wecouldnotget back andsawthecamera(whichheprobablythought just walkedaway(suchacheek!).Whenhelooked the guy,andhegotupjumpedoffboat, door toconfronttheman,noiseoflockalerted there wassomeoneontheboat.Whenheopened to our“patio”.Hecalledmegetthecamera,as at amarina. boat! Thisisveryeasyiftheboattiedonapontoon later, heheardasoftcough.Someonehadboardedour cruisers bother. becomes clearertouseverytimewhysofewother legally takingourdogtotheCaribbeanislands.It you understandourongoingfrustrationsabout dated andincorrect. done orwhythelittleinformationyoufindisout- have had.That’sprobablywhyitneverhasbeen Letters maybeeditedforlength,clarityand fairplay. name maybewithheldfromprintat your request. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however,your individual regattaresultscomplaints.(Kudosareokay!) e-mail) ifclarificationisrequired. address, andawaywecancontactyou(preferablyby Dear Freya ofClyde Anne Dunlop magazine. the linktootherpeoplewhootherwisewouldn’tsee Compass round 2:30 the Lagoonwarranty.Onenight,27thNovember,at ing somelastminorrepairsdonetoouryachtunder Please bemorecareful. the samecrimeproblemasmanyofotherislands. Hi there, Irie Liesbet Collaert Thanks verymuchforlettingussee We areparticularlyinterestedinseeingcorrections Please checkyourchartsandsendanycorrections Imray isintheprocessofre-drawingfollowing Two nightslater,29thNovember2009,wewere We checkedtoseeifanythingwastaken,andfortu- Joe gotupandsawamansittingontheinsidestep Keep upthegoodworkat I justwantedtosharethisinformationandhope St. Vincent&theGrenadines Bequia VC0400 Box 175BQ Readers’ Forum Compass PublishingLtd. or [email protected] Send yourlettersto: We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsor Please includeyourname,boatnameorshoreside We wanttohearfromYOU! We wereinthemarinaatLeMarin,Martinique,hav- Just toletyouknowthatMartiniqueisexperiencing Compass Compass Compass magazineon-line.Ihavebeenabletopass A 234St.Croix E 5Bermuda B 26Barbuda A 231,232USandBritishVirginIslands Compass AM , Joesaidhefelttheboatmove.Alittle , Readers, Readers, Readers, Caribbean Compass Caribbean ! JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 Tortola Cay Electronics Tortola Road Town, Ph: 284-494-2400 Fx: 284-494-5389 [email protected] Marine Maintenance Services Tortola Road Town, Ph: 284-494-3494 Fx: 284-494-8491 [email protected] Parts & Power Tortola Road Town, Ph: 284-494-2830 Fx: 284-494-1584 [email protected] On-line - FREE Caribbean Compass We’re on theWeb! We’re www.caribbeancompass.com

lancha St Thomas All Points Marine Compass Point Marina Ph: 340-775-9912 Fx: 340-779-2457 Trinidad Services Diesel Technology Siparta Ph: 868-649-2487 Fx: 868-649-9091 [email protected] Dockyard Electrics Chaguaramas Ph: 868-634-4272 Fx: 868-634-4933 [email protected] , it didn’t. For us… well, it Valiant 40 Galivant. Kersti St. John Coral Bay Marine Coral Bay Ph: 340-776-6665 Fx: 340-776-6859 [email protected] St Lucia The Sail Loft Rodney Bay Marina Ph: 758-452-1222 Fx: 758-452-4333 [email protected] St Maarten Electec Cole Bay Ph: 599-544-2051 Fx: 599-544-3641 [email protected] to see everything’ all night… But it’s impossible all night… But it’s There is an Arab proverb to the effect that you don’t Ann Westergard and Doug Brown are cruising the Other items for the worry list include logs washed Other items for the worry all night, along the coast Of course we stand watches ‘Of course we stand watches ‘Of course we stand it worked out, for remains to be seen. I’m expecting the best. truly own anything that you can lose at sea. Caribbean aboard the and offshore. But it’s impossible to see everything. We and offshore. But it’s impossible to see everything. We place a lot of faith in the odds that whatever danger lurks ahead is not directly ahead on the little line we draw across the ocean. For the men in the unlit into showing a light. A few minutes later another light into showing a light. A few a quarter mile off. suddenly appeared maybe if I hit a whale I’d down rivers, and whales (although and I had just consider that it had the right-of-way drawn the wrong card). by Ann Westergard Grenada Grenada Marine St. David's Ph: 473-443-1667 Fx: 473-443-1668 [email protected] Martinique Inboard Diesel Service Port of Case Pilote Ph: 596-596-787-196 Fx: 596-596-788-075 [email protected] St Croix St. Croix Marine Christiansted Ph: 340-773-0289 Fx: 340-778-8974 , somewhere WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S Arion NIGHT PASSAGES PASSAGES NIGHT , a monohull much like ours, , a monohull much like ours, , which was sailing on a similar , which was sailing on a similar

is gone, and with it, I’m sure, the is gone, and with it, I’m sure, Kersti

Kersti

Jupiter’s Smile Antigua Marine Power Services English Harbour Ph: 268-460-1850 Fx: 268-460-1851 [email protected] Services Seagull Yacht English Harbour Ph: 268-460-3050 Fx: 268-460-1767 [email protected] Bequia Caribbean Diesel Port Elizabeth Ph/Fx: 784-457-311 Long life. Long Reliability. Simplicity. A yacht named I’ve buried those particular containers under a pile I remember one of the most frightening nights of my I remember one of the most Then, a day later, on the Northwest Caribbean Net Then, a day later, on the of other things I might worry about. The other night we of other things I might worry about. The other night we were moving along the coast of mainland Honduras on a mainly clear but moonless night. There was a rock and a reefy area to avoid, and an isolated rain squall whose boundaries I checked on radar. As it passed, a I persistent little blip remained just behind us, and as looked for it, a light went on. Apparently we had nearly run over an unlit fishing boat, provoking him in mid-Atlantic. We were rollicking along, headlong in mid-Atlantic. We were rollicking along, headlong into one of the darkest (but starriest) nights imagin- able. All I could think of was a report I’d heard about a number of refrigerated containers that had suppos- edly been swept off the deck of a cargo ship in a storm. I was certain that the sharp corner of one was hovering about two feet below the surface and we would be upon it at any moment. I was miserable until sunrise, and then, although the containers may still have been there, I regained my balance. life — years ago, in our former boat, was holed and sank the other night while on a passage was holed and sank the other Cartagena, Colombia. The from the San Blas islands to picked up by another crew in their liferaft was safely yacht, vessel that had in view came the report from another measuring about 15 by a “large white ship’s mooring” the rhumb line from San 20 feet, drifting around on was radioed in and Blas to Cartagena. The report Coast Guard vessel in the apparently will reach a US obstacle. area, which will deal with the course. But crew, as well as all their confidence and serenity of the personal stuff. JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50

Call, faxorvisitourwebsiteforacompletelistofboatssale appear in the classic, 3strms,$145,000 La Creole50’1978Gulfstar 0 99Taa40 xrs,Gne,A,Ti as $275,000 40’ 1999Tiara4000Express,Genset,AC,TwinCats $30,000 36’1980 LittonTrawler,Yanmardiesels,GenSet $59,900 $64,500 32’ 1996Carver325TwinCrusaders,greatcondition 29’ 1994PhoenixSF,TwinVolvos,trimtabs,outriggers $33,000 26’ 1987WhaleBoatNavyCaptsgig,Perkins,4109 $45,000 $180,000 49’ 1979TranspacificKetch,Bluewater,3strms,loaded $179,900 46’ 2000Jeanneautwinhelms,3staterooms $79,000 41’ 1980MorganOutIslanderAC,greatcondition 36’ 1980AlbinStratus,Cruiseror6packchartervessel ST. THOMAS YACHTSALES Ahoy, Ketch. Wellmaintained Caribbean Compass Wallace &Co. W&W Supermarket Tradewinds CruiseClub PortHole Restaurant Mac’s Pizzeria Lulley’s Tackle GYE Grenadine Sails Friendship RoseOffice Frangipani Hotel Fernando’s Hideaway Doris FreshFood De ReefRestaurant Bequia Venture Bequia TourismAssn. Bequia PostOffice Bequia Bookshop Compass bold Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, PICK UP! ): Readers!WheninBequia,pickupyourfreemonthlycopyof www.stthomasyachts.com atanyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 Fax: (340)779-2779 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] Power Sail Beneteau Idylle,GreatCruiser, AP, AC,Genset$86,000 Summer Place44’1985 St.MaartenYachtClub(SMYC),tel(599)544-2075,fax544-2091, [email protected], 30 –31 30 www.smyc.com www.fest21.com/en/festival/femi_international_cinema_festival_of_guadeloupe 29 –6Feb 29 –2Feb 28 –31 27 –10Feb 27 –30 25 www.airjamaicajazzandblues.com 24 –30 24 –28 [email protected], publicholidayinDominicanRepublic 23 –24 22 21 –24 www.antiguayachtclub.com tel(596)632676,fax9448,[email protected] 21 18 17 13 –16 11 –20 11 –17 [email protected] 8 –10 Grenada(SecondNewYear’sDay) www.worldcruising.com/worldarc2010 (FoundingFathersDay),StKitts&Nevis(CarnivalSt.Luciaand 6 6 JunkanooparadeinAbaco,Bahamas 2 1 –3 1 JANUARY 2010 28thAnnualClassicYachtRegatta,Tortola.tel(284)495-4559. 13 –14 www.clubnautiquedumarin.com 12 -16 12 -15 7 www.transcaraibes.com 6 -16 6 –7 6 –7 www.montegobayrace.com 5 www.nauticodesanjuan.com 4 -7 2 /sailingprogram/regatta_int.htm FEBRUARY 28 27 –28 27 www.MultiHullRegatta.com 27 26 –28 22 –26 22 19 –21 andotherplaces 19 –21 PuertoRico,Dominica,Carriacou, Trinidad&Tobago,Venezuela, 17 15 Martinique,tel(596)517324,fax70, 15 -16 14 [email protected] (JHYC),Antigua.tel(268)770-6172,[email protected], 13 –15 www.jhycantigua.com If youwouldlikeanauticalortourism eventlistedFREEinourmonthlycal- ol R 001 trsi t ui. WorldARC2010/11startsinSt.Lucia. ThreeKingsDay.Publicholidayinmanyplaces PublicholidayinCuba(VictoryofArmedForcesDay),Haiti NewYear’sDay.Publicholidayor“recoveryday”inmanyplaces. IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinGrenada Pineapple Cup FULL MOON St.ThomasUSVIBluesFestival.http://stevesimonpresents.com ErrolBarrowDay;publicholidayinBarbados.OurLadyofAltagracia; MartinLutherKingDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI IndependenceDay.PublicholidayintheDominicanRepublic IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinSt.Lucia AshWednesday.PublicholidayinCaymanIslandsandJamaica Presidents’Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI SunshineSchoolFundraisingAuction,Bequia.www.bequiasunshineschool.org endar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name endar, pleasesendthenameanddate(s) oftheeventandname FREE CaribbeanCompass On-lineFREE at thetimethisissueof lbNuiod a unItrainlRgta uroRc. ClubNáuticodeSanJuanInternationalRegatta,PuertoRico. St.CroixChristmasFestivalParades.www.stxfestival.com DigicelWorkboatRegatta,Grenada.Seeadonpage5 t aRued anvlrly atnqet rndd 5thLaRouteduCarnivalrally,MartiniquetoTrinidad. BudgetMarineValentinesRegatta,Antigua.JollyHarbourYachtClub 0hSmieNuiu colhr atnqe 20thSemaineNautiqueSchoelcher,Martinique. 32ndAnnualSweetheartsoftheCaribbeanand CarnivalMondayandTuesdayinmostDutchFrenchislands,Haiti, BudgetMarineWomen’sCaribbeanChampionships, St.Maarten. BequiaMusicFest. JamaicaJazz&BluesFestival,MontegoBay. 41stSpiceIslandBillfishTournament,Grenada.www.sibtgrenada.com St.Maarten-St.MartinClassicYachtRegatta.www.ClassicRegatta.com CarriacouSailingSeries.www.sailingcarriacou.com St.BartsMusicFestival.www.stbartsmusicfestival.org 17thAnnualBarbadosJazzFestival.www.barbadosjazzfestival.com St.CroixYachtClubHospiceRegatta. CarnivalRegatta,Martinique.ClubNautique LeNeptune(CNN), AroundMartiniqueRace(2legs).CNN SouthGrenadaRegatta. RORCCaribbean600OffshoreRace,Antigua.caribbean600.rorc.org TobagoCarnivalRegatta.www.sailweek.com sopleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. Antigua SuperyachtCup.AYC Duarte’s day.PublicholidayinDominicanRepublic Around AntiguaRace.YachtClub(AYC),tel/fax(268)460-1799, Women’s CupRegatta,Martinique.YachtClubdelaMartinique(YCM), Gill StMaartenKeelboatChampionships,SMYC World WetlandsDay rudS.MatnS.Mri uthl eat. FULL MOON Around St.Maarten-St.MartinMultihullRegatta. www.caribbeancompass.com French RegionalMarineMammalStrandingWorkshop,Guadeloupe. PortLouisGrenadaSailingFestival. All information was correct to the best of our knowledge All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge 15thAnnualMustiqueBluesFestival.www.basilsbar.com 6hGaeop nentoa imFsia. 16th GuadeloupeInternationalFilmFestival. and contactinformationoftheorganizing bodyto

otg a ae aac. Montego BayRace,Jamaica. [email protected] CALENDAR See adonpage13 Compass See adonpage20 wenttopress—butplanschange, See adonpage5 See adonpage15

JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 Club is the Dominica Yacht and your center for: Dominica Marine Center www.dominicamarinecenter.com [email protected] home of the Tel: 767-448-2705 Fax: 767-448-7701 Dockmaster Tel: 767-275-2851 VHF: 16 The UNIQUE IN DOMINICA Roseau & Portsmouth Visa / Master Card accepted Down Island Ltd www.islandvillas.com Land and houses for sale Land and houses for For full details see our website: For full details see our or contact Carolyn Alexander at or contact Carolyn We also handle Villa Rentals & Villa also handle We e-mail: [email protected] Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290 (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) Tel: Property Management on Carriacou Property CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE CARRIACOU • Yacht Mooring Anchorage • Grocery Store & Provisioning • Bakery (Sukie’s Bread Company) • Water at dock • Fuel (Unleaded / Diesel) • Ice • Yacht Chandlery agents - Budget Marine /Sea Choice Products Mercury Marine / Yanmar Marine • LP Gas (propane) refills • Showers & Toilets (WC) • Garbage Disposal • Security • Telephone & Fax • Mobile Phone Rental / SIM Top Up • Laundry WiFi Internet • Beach Bar • Nearby Restaurants • Taxi & Tour Operators • Whale Watching & Sport Fishing • Light Engine and Boat Repair • Customs / Immigration • Clearance Information continued on next page

VHF CH68 Phone (784) 458-3458 lunch and dinner We serve breakfast, Book it now: Admiralty Bay, Bequia THIS COULD BE YOUR MARKET PLACE AD & Shoreline Mini-Market A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people. or contact your local island agent [email protected] PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR PORTHOLE RESTAURANT

Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!

• NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS • [email protected] appointed agents in PORT ELIZABETH, BEQUIA Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Trans-Atlantic Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean Duty free fuel (+10.000lt) EU-VAT (14%) importation EU-VAT Antifouling, Thinners www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Tel: 784 458 3319 • Fax: 784 458 3000 Email: [email protected] Providing all vital servicesProviding to St. Vincent & the Grenadines for MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat,

BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD VENTURE CO. BEQUIA YACHT SERVICES YACHT TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 TEL +351 292 391616 FAX • SUPPLIES CLEANING • Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Chandlery, Pilots, RiggingIncl. • SPRAY PAINTS • ROLLERS • BRUSHES • TOOLS • • FILLERS • STAINLESS FASTENERS • ADHESIVES • PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES / FAIAL, HORTA PT-9900-144 JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 tel: (473)[email protected] • wooden-warehammocks+moreuniquegifts SAILMAKING, RIGGING,ELECTRONICS S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminiumitems. TechNick Ltd. Grenada Marine•SpiceIsland welding. Fabricationandrepairof Engineering, fabricationand • rareexoticarts+crafts young streetst.george's Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 Nick Williams, Manager for yourboat,home+friends [email protected] [email protected] Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Tel/Fax (473)439-4495 just stepsfromthecarenage •jewelry grenada LEMARIN,MARTINIQUE•GRENADA www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] Phone: +(596)596748033Cell:(596)696276605 Shipchandler, Artimer Le Marin,Martinique G G G N R I I Tel: (0)596714161Fax:77 # O [email protected] N S U M A B L E S W I N D  C A R T E  P D F          R D N A H C H E P S L  I      continuedonnextpage Zac artimer-LeMarin,MartiniqueFWI Tel: +(596)596650524Fax:053 MartiniqueMarin 7 Hours from Opening Voiles Assistance AM Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) BBar •RestaurantDeli Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm + (599)553-3 Installation /Repair e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard -11 a tel/fax: (596)596748832 E-mail: [email protected] r wwww.restaurant-mangobay.com WWIFI ConnectionforourGuests F PM

w Saturday byappointment L • I A w Packages Pick–upcall: [email protected] F TTelephone: 0596746089 G S

e Int. 001-3057042314 I Didier andMaria . Marine Electrics

R r l C W e e I o p s e N Watermakers n D t 8 h a  n 50 /+(590)690-222473 s o u e C n St. St. Maarten/ Martin, collect t COURIER SERVICES r A c CIRExpress e a R t a T and deliver doorto i : n E o

0 t  u n - P 5 m D

9 f F r o 6 a r a

n 7

o  g 4 n  u o

 6 r  b

t 0  G a 

u 8  y •  from 6-7 Happy Hour 9 e . c

s Every Day

o

t D

m s 





e 

  l  i PM

JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53

s 8 e t m m 4 g a o o 0 o a c c r 7 B . .

- e t s n 6 s c k e i 3 a o d s 2 o r o s - c B o a 7

l d t 0 i for W c com

2207-236-7048 h s . c i c m e 9 s a s n @ Y a s 9 o

l j c s condition. $20,000 i Classic Wooden Boats CClassic Wooden d 9 e s i s n v a o a l J -9

[email protected] d . d 4 i w v a w

David Jones Yacht Brokerage Brokerage Yacht DDavid Jones wwww.davidjonesclassics.com 41 Y well cared for and in very good well cared 4 L L of salt and sun E savondemer 95 Many Atlantic crossings. Plumbelly is Atlantic crossings. Many . Ultimate Choice B

T

on your hair and skin. M Dealers welcome to register U The L Counteracts the drying effects sailors, boaters, swimmers, www PPLUMBELLY and body wash with . SAVE your FRESH water, shampoo divers, fishermen and campers.

1964 Bequia Wood Cutter 25’ Cutter 1964 Bequia Wood

DEALER DEALER

or at at or or

pH-7 Neutral pH-7 pH-7 Neutral pH-7

ORDER ONLINE ONLINE ORDER ORDER Biodegradable Biodegradable ! Compass REMEMBER

☛ to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in

Book it now: Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean THIS COULD BE YOUR MARKET PLACE AD or contact your local island agent [email protected] JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 [email protected] Bequia. MoreinfoE-mailmaxi- Well equipped,locatedin BENETEAU FIRST4561984 US$169,000 ONOLyingStLucia reduced foraspeedysale webs.com/venus46forsale Price more. Fullspecsatwww.free- Solar Panels,WindGenerator& EPIRB, SSB,WaterMaker,Air-Con, GPS, RADAR,VHF,AutoPilot, excellent liveaboardandcruiser. fiberglass, vgc,newengine2007, YOUNG SUN46FTVENUS1984KETCH [email protected] go.US$32,000 onoE-mail Cruising Grenada.Readyto and Stevensdesign. 1979 HUGHES38 com E-mail Yachtsales@dsl-yachting. contract, 390.000Euros equipment withcharter upgrades, lotsofextra 2006 Bahia46,Hispec 1981 CT54US195.000 90.000 Euros 1992 Dehler37CWS, 1987 Irwin44US105.000 460.000 Euros 2000 Catana471,4cabin, 39.000, St.Luciadutypaid 1981 CapeDory30,US 2 setsracingsails,US57.000 1975 GermanFrers39ft, 596-696-907429 E-mail [email protected]: DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO G DETSR OAIN G AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER lpesSi Mriiu MP 45 Martinique UnionIsand MP MP 48 Bequia MP Clippers Ship Carriacou MP 23 CIRExpress St. Guadeloupe MP Ciao Pizza 50 Carriacou SilverDiving 45 Martinique Martinique Trinidad Caribbean Woods MP 34 Caribbean PropellersLtd. UnionIsland Trinidad MP Caribbean MarineElectrical 2 Tortola CaribWide Caraibe Yachts 31 46 SintMaarten Caraibe Greement Grenada Maarten 43 Caraibe Energie 13 Captain Gourmet Bequia Camper &Nicholsons MP Mustique Caribbean Bequia BVI YachtSales MP Budget Marine MP MP Budget Marine Bequia Grenada 42 Beyond TheIslands Bequia Venture 19 26 PetiteMartinique Bequia MusicFestival Antigua Trinidad Bequia Marina 47 Basil’s Bar Antigua St.Vincent Barrow Sails&Canvas MP Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Martinique Art &Design UK Anjo Insurance Admiral YachtInsurance A&C YachtBrokers Tel(758)4528531 BOATS FORSALE Sparkman A Happy NewYear 2010toallourReaders, Friends &Partners . Tel (952)221-3788 E-mail [email protected] Ready. BVI’s,$115,000, Good Condition,Cruising 393, 3Cabins/2Heads, 2003 BENETEAUOCEANIS [email protected] details. US$56,000E-mail: sv-mladykathleen for www.freewebs.com/ loaded withgoodies. available intheGrenadines, “M'Lady Kathleen”Now 41' CORONADO1973, www.crackajacksailing.com Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD [email protected] larger worldcruiser.E-mail (Caribbean) andmoveto reflects currentlocation Interesting priceof55,000US$ large sunawningetc. winches, 2anchors+chain, well-maintained Harken Raymarine autopilot(2007), many extrasincl.new (2002), largesailwardrobe, new mastandrodrigging Extensively overhauledwith care ofinrecentyears. design weaknessestaken club racing.AllJ-Boats friends, andequippedfor fast cruisingwithfamily/ Ideal boatforcomfortable, in fromNLoncontainership. only byownerandbrought very wellmaintained,sailed 2007 Trinidad.Cochiseis plicity andBoatofTheYear speed, easetohandle,sim- to sailisforsale.Noted yacht (1991)andpleasure COCHISE , anelegant39ft ono adae t ui 14 MP 26 St.Lucia 56 CaribWide SintMaarten UK47/48 35 MP Johnson Hardware Bequia Island WaterWorld 47 11 5 44 Island WaterWorld Grenada 33 Iolaire Enterprises 6 Bequia GRPro-Clean Martinique St.Vincent Grenada Guadeloupe Grenadines Sails Grenada 42 Bequia Grenadine IslandVillas MP Grenada Grenada SailingFestival MP Grenada Marine Grenada AroundIsland Gourmet Foods Bequia Friendship Rose 32 USA 3 MP Fred Marine 10 Food Fair Fernando's Hideaway Barbados Grenada Electropics Trinidad MP Tortola 8 Trinidad Echo Marine-JotunSpecial 8 MP Doyle's Guides 32 Doyle OffshoreSails Carriacou MP Doyle OffshoreSails 21 St.Maarten Down IslandRealEstate Dominica Curaçao Dopco Travel USA Dominica MarineCenter Martinique Dockwise YachtTransport Diginav Martinique Diesel Outfitters Curaçao Marine Cooper Marine 25 Tel (473) 415-9323 Tel (473)415-9323 Good price,negotiable. Based inTyrellBay,Carriacou. Fiberglass hull.671GMDiesel. 40 FTFISHINGTRAWLER. CRUISER 46’ PETERSONPERFORMANCE E-mail [email protected] US$36,000 ContactSamLaing, Dry storagepast2years. circuit breakerpanel. ing dualbatterysystem& Completely rewiredinclud- plotter, Maxisailcompass. ter, cockpitmountedchart Raytheon GPS,speedome- all newinstruments. size winches,customhelm, Expanded cockpit,over- bulb keel&rudder. 2001 rebuild,Henderson BENETEAU 10-METER CORT WINNER“UNCLESAM” [email protected] St Lucia.Euros217,000E-mail New engine.Exc.condition. HALLBERG RASSY391997 [email protected] row. USD189,999E-mail for youtostartcruisingtomor- located inTrinidad.Ready out theCaribbeanandnow maintained. Sailedthrough- pit, singleowner,lovingly 1988 Centercock- ADVERTISERS INDEX CLASSIFIEDS Custom,

Tel +(596)696251160 Plaisance, Marin,Martinique Contact OlivierNelly,Portde iliary rudder,Goodprice. WIND PILOTPACIFIC E-Mail [email protected] 36HP Trinidadcell(868)650-1914 YANMAR OUTBOARDDIESEL sociates.com es: www.northernrockiesas- INSTRUMENTS TACKTICK WIRELESS/SOLAR E-mail [email protected] HULLS 2 X54’F/GLASSCATAMARAN bean.com/specials.htm DEALS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL SAILS ANDCANVAS e-mail: [email protected] ask fordetails7584528531 upgrade) 2000USOBO (has beenchangedfor spreaders, lights,winches deck stepped,boom, SELDEN RIG [email protected] Tel (473)459-8854E-mail Lying Grenada.US$222,000 dinghy w/30hpYamaha. top, cockpittable,12'Carib tor, newwatermaker,bimini New sails,new6kwgenera- 40hp dieselsw/ST40saildrives. Including 2newYanmar CATANA 441995 [email protected] cate fromSt.ThomasE-mail all ranksconsidered.Canrelo- also. Daytrips,Termordelivery, Mate 200Tons,Divemaster Master 100TonsSailorPower, CAPTAIN AVAILABLE ceisle.com Tel:(473)439-2049 email CVtoenzamarine@spi- company inGrenada.Please the stabilityofanestablished independent techlookingfor work permit.Idealforcruiseror eration. Wecanassistwith wind generators,ACandrefrig- trical, electronics,watermakers, for marinedieselengines,elec- round experiencedtechnician Co. inGrenadaisseekingall Respected MarineEngineering MARINE TECHNICIANWANTED efGres niu 45 36 MP 37 25 10 MP Antigua 40 Curaçao MP Aruba Bequia Trinidad Tortola Trinidad 22 Santa BarbaraResort Renaissance Marina Antigua Reef Gardens 43 PSV Reds Caribbean Tortola Quantum Sails St.Maarten Power Boats Port Hole 48 Plumbelly Carib 49 Petit St.Vincent MP Perkins Engines MP MP 31 24 16 On Deck DominicanRep. Grenada Ocean Xperts Tortola Martinique Northern LightsGenerators 20 Navimca Venezuela Trinidad St.Lucia 18 Azores MP Bequia Mid AtlanticYachtServices 24 20 McIntyre Bros.Ltd Wide Grenada Marina Zar-Par St.Vincent MP 47 Marigot BeachClub St.Maarten Trinidad Marc OneMarine Grenada 41 Mango Bay Lulley's Tackle St.Croix Antigua MP Le PhareBleuRegatta Le PhareBleu Lagoon Marina KP Marine KNJ Marine Jones Maritime Jolly Harbour Trinidad (868) 650-1914 Trinidad(868)650-1914 MISC. FORSALE athttp://doylecarib- WANTED , Discountpric- for VINDÖ 35, for VINDÖ35, Refit 2002. Refit2002. Plusaux- , USCG , USCG

email: [email protected] term rates.Tel:(784)4951177 minimum, excellentlong- Internet, cableTV.2weeks stunning view,coolbreeze. Big verandahandpatio, or 1bedstudioapartment. Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA [email protected]. Tel (784)496-9872E-mail month, utilitiesnotincluded. from thesea.EC$1,300per ly refurbishedhouse.100yds room, partlyfurnished,recent- BEQUIA, HAMILTON [email protected] (784) 458-3518/430-5021E-mail to beach.Readyforbuilding.Tel with elec.&seaview,5minwalk lot onadeadendquietroad Beautifully locatedrectangular parcel ofland25,060sq/ft. BEQUIA, SPRINGESTATE E-mail [email protected] US$225,000 Tel(784)529-5972 overlooking AdmiraltyBay. retreat. Tradtionalcottage BEQUIA, BELMONT Jhjamie99 @gmail.com Tel (473)4044630E-mail sq/ft each.$4.25USpersq/ft. 2 piecesoflandforsale23,000 BEQUIA, UNIONLEVEL www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay views overlookingSouthern and multiacretracts.Great CARRIACOU, ONEACRELOTS www.caribbeancompass.com PROPERTY FORSALE LAND FORSALE Your Classifi on theInternet RENTALS MP=MarketPlacepages51to53 Sailor‘s Sailor‘s Excellent Excellent aauMrn Vnzea 42 31 Venezuela 9 MP 20 Bequia YES Martinique Antigua MP Xanadu Marine St.Vincent 35 Martinique Woodstock Boatbuilders WIND Martinique 26 Grenada MP Wallilabou Anchorage Grenada Wallace &Co 7 42 Voiles Assistance Guadeloupe Carriacou Vemasca Venezuela 41 Guadeloupe MP MP 46 Tyrrel BayYachtHaulout 12 Turbulence Sails Turbulence Sails Bequia St.Vincent MP Triskell CupRegatta St.Vincent Grenada Antigua Transcaraibes 43 Trade WindsCruising 15 Townhouse MegaStore Tilikum Martinique 55 MP Tikal Arts&Crafts 24 17 50 Technick Grenada St.Croix MP SVG Tourism SVG Air St.Thomas Grenada Martinique Trinidad Superwind Germany Tortola Caribbean St. ThomasYachtSales MP MP St. CroixRegatta Spice IslandMarine Soper's HoleMarina 25 Ship's Carpenter Sea Services Savon DeMer 2-bed 2-bed

10AM–10PM. Tel(473)443-2645VHF16 laundry &more!Opendaily by the15thofmonth. E-mail [email protected]. Short orlong-termlets. views. Jeep&Internet. bed villawithpool.Stunning BEQUIA, PORTELIZABETH [email protected] baths. Tel(784)4953704E-mail Unfurnished house,3bedroom/2 BEQUIA, FRIENDSHIP [email protected] Tel (784)458-3942E-mail Admiralty Bay. quiet northwestcornerof our ownjetty.Locatedin and accesstotheseafrom Admiralty Bayfromverandah rental. Panoramicviewof able forshortorlongterm in waterfrontpropertyavail- ensuite air-conditionedrooms Recently completedfour ACCOMMODATION BEQUIA restaurant, j GRENADA ISLAND VIEWatWOBURNBAY, Tel (604)724-7384 E-mail [email protected], monthly. www.protexplan.com Hospital optionage30-34:$35 network. HighestDeductible 4700 UShospitaldirectbilling worldwide “A”ratedcover, INSURANCE INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL ing classifiedsareUS$10. Line drawings/photosaccompany- address andnumbersincount. US 50¢perword–includename, CLASSIFIED ADS SERVICES offering sports bar, offeringsportsbar, etty, WiFi, showers, ice, etty, WiFi,showers,ice, ed US$5,000,000 No replies. Pre-paid Pre-paid 3

JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited