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C A R I B B E A N FREE C MPASS JANUARY 2010 NO. 172 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Young-at-Heart ARC! See story on page 14 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 DEPARTMENTS Business Briefs .......................8 The Caribbean Sky ...............41 Regatta News........................ 12 Book Reviews ........................42 Destinations ........................... 21 Cooking with Cruisers....44 - 46 Sailors’ Hikes ........................26 Readers’ Forum .....................48 Meridian Passage .................32 What’s on My Mind ............... 49 Cruiser Profile ........................32 Monthly Calendar ................ 50 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Fun Pages.........................38, 39 Caribbean Marketplace...... 51 Cruising Kids’ Corner ............40 Classified Ads ....................... 54 www.caribbeancompass.com Dolly’s Deep Secrets ............40 Advertisers’ Index .................54 JANUARY 2010 • NUMBER 172 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 Security Scene ‘Our Favorite Island’ Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 [email protected] Marie Galante [email protected] Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Tel: Updates and tips .................. 12 chooses Grenada .. 34 www.caribbeancompass.com (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 BERNFELD ROBERT VAN DAM [email protected] Editor...........................................Sally Erdle [email protected] St. Lucia: Distribution - Lisa Kessell Tel: (758) 484-0555, Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre [email protected] Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer [email protected] Distribution - Eric Bendahan [email protected] Tel: (599) 553 3850, [email protected] Accounting.................................Debra Davis St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution - Bryan Lezama [email protected] Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] River Ramble Compass Agents by Island: St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Up Guyana’s Essequibo ........22 Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Tel (268) 720-6868 Tortola/BVI: Distribution - Gladys Jones [email protected] Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails Trinidad: Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend It’s All Happening! Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Tel: (868) 621-0575, Cell: (868) 620-0978 [email protected] Caribbean Events Calendar 2010 .. 27 Curaçao: Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao DILALLA [email protected] Venezuela: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Dominica: Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. Sailing a Legend They Love Lac Bay ©2010 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, Plumbelly of Bequia Sea turtles dine in Bonaire ... 36 except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ............... 33 ISSN 1605 - 1998 Cover photo: Mini Maxi, winner of ARC 2009 Best Family Performance Photo: Tim Wright/www.photoaction.com Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. “The Caribbean Compass magazine is to the sailing community in the region as the wind is to sailing: without it there, we would all be ‘in irons’! The Compass’s extensive coverage of all that goes on in the islands — such as culture, Immigration and JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Customs rules, conditions and events — make it a must- read for casual and professional sailors alike.” — Niki Borde, Manager Regatta Promoters Ltd. Tobago Carnival Regatta Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078&spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed service companies, restaurants and dive centres in the community. Funding for the night security is provided by membership fees, donations, fees from yacht moorings in Prince Rupert Bay, fund-raising beach barbecues and other fun activities. All ser- vices are provided by members on a voluntary basis and all proceeds are dedicat- Info ed to ensuring your security and to helping develop the yachting sector in & Updates St. Croix Warning and Update Marilyn Cook reports: There has been a major problem with yachts entering Christiansted Harbor, St. Croix. On average, one cruising yacht a month has been driving up onto Round Reef. Several have been lost, and all suffered damage. Just since Thanksgiving 2009, two sailboats have gone hard aground. Please study the chart before entering the harbor! [Editor’s note: Nancy and Simon Scott’s Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands 2009-2011 has a large aerial photo on page 262 that clear- ly shows the location of Round Reef. Space does not permit its reproduction here.] Round Reef is situated right in the middle of what one would think is the channel. To be on the safe side, I recommend entering the harbor on the left, following the green buoys along the peninsula straight in. There is a red-over-green buoy that marks the northeast corner of Round Reef. It is a dual channel marker. Apparently, some sailors assume you can go either side of it. DON’T! It is marking the straight-in channel (left channel) and also the WAPA channel that actually is a 90-degree right turn down along the reef going west. I have been using the channel for many years and I still get the willies coming in. It can be very confusing, as there are buoys everywhere. Also, St. Croix’s Department of Planning and Natural Resources (DPNR) has installed The PAYS patrol boat, a boost to yacht security in Portsmouth, Dominica 20 moorings in Gallows Bay for transient yachts. They cost US$2.00 per foot per month and are well made. You can call DPNR at (340) 244-9066. Dominica. Please help support our program by using PAYS members for your yacht Security Patrols in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica services when coming to Dominica and joining in our fun events. Helen Clarke reports: Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services and Security (PAYS) For more information contact Jeff Frank at (767) 245-0125 or Helen Clarke JANUARY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 would like to remind all yachts visiting Dominica to moor or anchor in the north end at (767) 275-3020. of Prince Rupert Bay (between Blue Bay Restaurant and the Purple Turtle) where security patrols are conducted nightly. Although we recognize that some visitors St. Maarten Bridge Openings prefer the seclusion of the south end, current economic conditions do not permit As is customary every “high” season, the bridge into Simpson Bay Lagoon, St. our group to patrol the whole bay and although Dominica is one of the safest coun- Maarten, opens six times during the day in order to handle the vessels that make tries in the Caribbean, we cannot recommend that you anchor outside the use of several marinas in the lagoon. The daily seasonal openings are: 9:00AM out- patrolled area. bound, 9:30AM inbound, 11:00AM outbound, 11:30AM inbound, 4:30PM outbound and Please note that we tried to patrol the south end on a regular basis but we could 5:30PM inbound. This schedule will run until May 2010. not afford the additional fuel given the current revenue stream. We will monitor the Users of small craft are requested not to transit the bridge channel during bridge situation through the season but PAYS President, Jeff Frank, is actively visiting all opening hours. Boats docking at the BBW dock should not be maneuvering in the boats at the end of the day and asking them to move north. channel during the bridge operational hours. Small sea craft must make use of the PAYS is a registered non-profit association, established in 2007, and includes 17 port channel when passing under the bridge. members from the yacht tourism sector in Portsmouth, including tour guides, yacht —Continued on next page — Continued from previous page New Underwater Sculptures in Mexico Jet ski owners and rentals are requested to inform users that they must put their The first phase of a new underwater
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  • Moitessier, Le Long Sillage D'un Homme Libre

    Moitessier, Le Long Sillage D'un Homme Libre

    Moitessier, le long sillage d’un homme libre Jean-Michel Barrault Moitessier, le long sillage d’un homme libre Flammarion © Flammarion, Paris, 2013 87, quai Panhard-et-Levassor 75647 Paris Cedex 13 Tous droits réservés 978-2-0813-4341-2 Préface à la nouvelle édition Le 16 juin 1994 mourait Bernard Moitessier. Vingt ans après sa disparition, le long sillage de cet homme libre continue d’exercer une importante influence. Les raisons en sont multiples. J’ai vécu avec Bernard trente-six ans d’une profonde amitié, ai entretenu avec lui une abondante correspondance illustrée par une bonne centaine de lettres, la plupart de plusieurs pages. Un détail amusant : la première page est écrite dans le sens normal de la page, la seconde transversalement, dans la largeur. Nombre de ces missives ont trait à l’écriture d’un livre, à son édition, à la construction d’un nouveau bateau, ce qui, dès son arrivée en France, est son unique obsession : Marseille, 28.6.1960 Knocker [architecte amateur talentueux] aura terminé le plan de Maïté [qui s’appellera finalement Joshua] en décembre ou janvier. À partir de là, je devrai attaquer la construction sans complexe. Mon rêve serait de construire à Bendor, chez Ricard. Quelques-unes de ces lettres seront fort courtes, comme celle qu’il m’envoie juste avant d’appareiller 7 Moitessier, le long sillage d’un homme libre pour la longue route, avec une double préoccupation d’altruisme et de sens marin : Plymouth, 20.8 Mon cher Jean-Michel, Merci pour ta bonne lettre pleine de sagesse et d’amitié.