PARIS IS for EVERYONE There’S No Bad Time to Stroll the City of Light, but There Might Just Be a Perfect Time: This Fall

WHERE IT’S AT W Paris, France

PARIS IS FOR EVERYONE There’s no bad time to stroll the City of Light, but there might just be a perfect time: this fall. Right now, Paris is overﬂ owing with new experiences for art and food lovers, shoppers, cool kids—and actual kids, too. by LINDSEY TRAMUTA SASHA ARUTYUNOVA SASHA

40 AFAR OCTOBER 2015 WHERE IT’S AT W Paris, France THE DINNER FOR YOU Be as ﬁ nicky as you like— Paris has a restaurant right in your sweet spot.

MARTIN

Alfresco Great Dining Wine

Open Late

Go for the terrace and elegant small plates—black mullet ceviche, fried chicken with kimchi, mushroom toast—at bafﬂ ingly affordable prices. The Insider’s To-Do List Whether you go to Paris annually or once a decade, these spots are unmissable. PASCADE

1 MUSEUMS 2 SHOPPING 3 NIGHTLIFE If You Like The Centre If You Like Merci, a If You Like The drinks Regional Your Pompidou, known as trend hunter’s fi rst stop at Experimental Eats Crêpe Fix much for its inside-out for bohemian threads Cocktail Club, a favorite design as for modern art and quirky miscellany among global bartenders Try This The year-old Try This Recently opened Try This A Nevez Old- Fondation Louis Vuitton, La Trésorerie, which Fashion, spiked with above, which looks like a stocks modern home whiskey from Brittany, at Michelin massive glass boat sailing goods, many made from Le Syndicat, a new shrine Approved on Bois de Boulogne park renewable materials to rare French booze Pascade raises the bar for the kind of crêpes souffl és you’d fi nd in the Averyon region. The menu’s standouts are the BEST OF CARBS umami asparagus maki and the spicy chicken yassa.

Beyond the Croissant BISTROT Pâtissier Philippe Urraca, a judge on France’s equivalent of PAUL BERT Top Chef, shares where to ﬁ nd the best pastries in town.

Meat Très Lovers Français

TARTE AUX PARIS BREST ÉCLAIR PROFITEROLES POMMES “At La Pâtisserie “L’Éclair de Génie And don’t miss Locals’ “Renowned pastry des Rêves, these made a genius Urraca’s own Spot chef Claire Damon wheel-shaped treats update on the éclair Profi terole Chérie, of Des Gâteaux are sandwiched au chocolat: half the where the cream- In the hip 11th arrondissement, et du Pain gets the with a hazelnut size, half the sugar, or ice cream–fi lled this is the quintessential crust perfectly cream. Each and the highest mounds are made Parisian bistro. Everything on crisp and the fruit bite truly explodes quality chocolate to order in front the chalkboard menu is wholly juicy every time.” with fl avor.” from Grand Cru.” of you. satisfying—but the steak au

poivre with fries? Unbelievable. GÉNIE, DE L’ÉCLAIR CHÉRIE, PROFITEROLE OF COURTESY BAAN, IWAN TOP: FROM CLOCKWISE SALAMNDRA A. BY LETTERING PAIN; DU ET GÂTEAUX DES GÂTEAUX/LETRIBUNAL.COM, DES TRIBUNAL LE

42 AFAR OCTOBER 2015 1 2 WHERE IT’S AT W Paris, France

KIDS IN TOW Paris Avec Bébé?

Mais Oui! 3 Play it right, and the city can actually be a delight with young ones. —LORA SHINN

Your Home Base Rent an apartment in the central ﬁ fth arrondissement. That way you’ll always be close to the Jardin du Luxembourg, a real 6 5 4 crowd pleaser with timeless marionette shows, a carousel, and pony rides.

The Cure for Museum Fatigue In return for good behavior at the Louvre, promise your kids a morning of splashing, building, and playing TV star at the hands-on La Cité des Enfants. BEST OF LE MARAIS This “it” neighborhood still reigns, but the action has migrated Feed the Beasts to its once sleepy northern tip. Capitalize on the city’s fantastic falafel. Or, for What locals love about Upper Marais (1) is its (4) for a kaleidoscopic selection of notebooks a sit-down meal, ﬁ nd wealth of stylish places designed for lingering. and easy-to-pack accessories. To eat and people- a casual café and pack For instance, Carreau du Temple (3), a covered watch, settle in at Les Chouettes (6), a soaring crayons for the paper- market dating to 1863, hosts everything from art deco brasserie with three levels, including a covered tables. Fair fashion shows to ﬁ tness classes. (Look out library. Or stop by Maison Plisson (5). Calling it warning: If you don’t for Gym Suédoise, a low-impact workout that’s a supermarket wouldn’t do it justice: The produce bring a portable high converted Parisians to exercise.) Nearby, in a is local, the meats are prepared by award- chair, your toddler will robin’s-egg-blue storefront, Boot Café (2) pours winning butchers, and the selection of chèvre is wind up in your lap. lattes made with beans from the highly regarded vast. Stock up on provisions and have a decadent Belleville Brûlerie roasters. Browse Papier Tigre picnic at the nearby Square du Temple garden.

ATTN: AUDIOPHILES Pitchfork Music Festival, Oct. 29–31, will bring moody, sexy, very French sounds—including shoegazers Beach House and the Sade-like Rhye—to the Grande Halle de la Villette. It’s the perfect excuse for a Parisian long weekend. —ANDREW RICHDALE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ADAM SENATORI, ANDREW INGALLS, COURTESY OF FERNANDO J. FERNANDO OF COURTESY INGALLS, ANDREW SENATORI, ADAM LEFT: TOP FROM CLOCKWISE PLISSON, MAISON OF COURTESY TIGRE, PAPIER OF COURTESY URQUIJO/STUDIOMILOU, JOLIET LAURE BOTTOM: CANI; LUCIANA

44 AFAR OCTOBER 2015