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Sparkling Wines of Hungaria, Törley and François

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Sparkling Wines of Hungaria, Törley and François Sparkling wines of Hungaria, Törley and François Among the Budafok producers, Hungaria was “specialised” in the classic technique. Their products are prepared using traditional bottle fermentation, and represent 3% of the domestic sparkling wine market. In their fermentation and ageing cellars 2 million bottles can be processed. The filling (and emptying) of 1,5 litre magnum bottles occurs continuously throughout the year. After several months of fermentation, the sparkling wine ages for 1-2 years. The Hungaria Grand Cuvée is made from the highest-quality ingredients. The quality of Hungaria’s products is exemplified by their international success in numerous countries. One of the most significant is the gold medal won by the Grand Cuvée at the 1981 Vinexpo in Bordeaux. The Hungaria Rosé was awarded a gold medal at the 1999 National Wine Competition. This relatively small company produces much-sought-after sparkling wines: the exceptionally dry Hungaria Extra Dry, which emanates extravagance; the sweet Hungaria Doux, made up of spicy wines and with a harmonious aroma; the elegant, classic dry sparkling wine Hungaria Grand Cuvée, aged for several years; the red, semi-dry Hungaria Grand Cuvée Rouge, a rarity in the world of classic sparkling wines; and the newest member of the Hungaria family, Hungaria Rosé. Hungaria’s history began 40 years ago. From 1960-70, sales increased six-fold as domestic and export demand increased. In the early 70s, Törley came under the management of Hungarovin. The company’s profile expanded in the 80s with the addition of tank fermentation. As a result of multi-phased investment, the company’s production reached 30 million bottles by the end of the 80s, with a fermentation capacity of 1000 m3. With new technology alongside the traditional, rising demand due to good quality, and improved export opportunities, producers in Budafok were spurred to expand and increase their exploitation of capacity. A few of the popular sparkling wine brands from this time are: “Promontor doux”, Muscateller doux”, “Crémant rosé”, “Extra Rubin”, “Charmat Rouge”. In the 80s Hungarovin expanded its offerings by buying the François name and technology. This allowed the company to produce François sparkling wines in addition to Törley and Hungaria. The opening of François on the 100th anniversary of the establishment of Törley was a momentous occasion. The cellars housing François riddling platforms, machines and equipment, sitting unused and neglected for many years, was transformed into a modern facility restored to its original purpose. New platform capable of riddling 60 000 bottles at once were installed; with a 24-30 day shaking cycle, this meant a production capability of approximately 1 million bottles per year. New processing equipment (disgorgers and packagers) were aligned to handle this quantity. Most of the machinery came from France (Perrier), supplemented with a few Italian and German machines. According to their technique, the bottling of the wine – prepared from top-quality base wines – occurred in April-May. Bottles were allowed to ferment on racks for 3-5 months. The sparkling wine was then aged for 2,5 years, shifting racks once a year. After riddling, processing continued with disgorgement of sediment, addition of liqueur, washing the exterior of the bottles and packaging. At the centenary of François’ founding, the following brands were sold: “François Président brut”, “François Extra Cuvée dry”, “François Monopol demi sec”, “François jubileum demi doux”. After the demise of the socialist market, production decreased considerably, but Törley remained the leading player in the domestic market. In 1992, Henkell & Söhnlein Wiesbaden obtained majority ownership of Hungarovin, and with the aid of their capital, modern technology, and know-how, Hungarovin has become an efficient, prosperous, market heavy-weight. As a result, Hungarovin became 100% owner of the second largest wine producer, BB Inc. of Balatonboglár. The company views the primacy of quality and the guarding of tradition as company philosophy. Their undertaking is worthy of a market leader: to guarantee a range of products to satisfy all tastes, to constantly develop products to meet the changing demands of customers, and to play an active role in the community. The François Sparkling Wine Company Philipe François, born in 1830, was the champagne master at the Montagny champagne house. He had 12 children, but due to the war in the 1870s, only two sons survived: Louis François (born in 1859) and Cesar François (born 1869). In 1882, in Reims, Louis François met József Törley, who invited him to join him as an independent champagne master at his new facility being built in Budafok. At the time, there was a strong accord between the two future rivals. Looking for base wine, Louis travelled the region, then the country. During his travels, he discovered Etyek and its excellent sparkling wine base wine; the wines of Budafok, Rózsavölgy, Kereszthegy, and Sashegy also proved of high quality. In 1885, Louis François married Anna Neer, the foster child of József Paholtzky, a Budafok farmer. His calculations paid off, and he saw good opportunities for making a living in Hungary. In 1885, he invited his brother to come to Hungary as well. Cesar joined the already operational Törley as an employee. In 1886 a dispute arose between József Törley and Louis François; as a result, their contractual relationship ended. During the same year, a new sparkling wine producer, Louis François et Co. Budafok was registered with the Bia court. Louis’s partner was his father-in-law, who donated 6 000 gold crowns to the new venture. They bought the house and cellar located at 16 Péter Pál St., and in that year filled 7 243 bottles of sparkling wine. With this began the great development of François which, in competition with nearby Törley, significantly contributed to the development and recognition of Budafok sparkling wine production. After striking out on his own, François had to find new base wine producers. Thus he brought wine from Magyarád and Érmellék in Transylvania. Wine bought there was even sent to phylloxera – and peronaspore – ridden France for cognac production. It wasn’t easy work, considering they had to fight the serious prejudice that champagne could only come from France. Poor quality in general and a lack of professional training and literature did little to help matters. Louis François already possessed the latest knowledge; he had brought with him the practical knowledge of family tradition as well. True, this knowledge was a closely-guarded secret, shared only with his partner and brother, Cesar. They worked in complete agreement, complementing each other. The new methods couldn’t remain a secret forever, however, and small companies formed one after another. The only real competition, though, was between Törley and François. Although they respected each other, this didn’t prevent them from competing at every possible opportunity. François became the official supplier to Prince Phillip of Saxon-Coburg and to the court of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, proving that François was also competitive in terms of quality. At the 1896 Bordeaux exhibition, the excellence of his sparkling wines was recognised with the “Diplome d’Honneur”, and at the 1897 annual Paris exhibition, he won the “Grand Prix”. The company’s products: - Crémant Rosé - Tarokk champagne - Transilvánia - Bonopol demi sec - Batthyany Brut - Orientál Extra dry Meanwhile, the millennium year 1896 brought domestic success as well. The company built a beautiful exhibition pavilon in the Budapest City Park (Városliget). At the wine competition, they won a silver medal. Their foreign deliveries to France, Portugal, Belgium, and Austria were considerable. At this time, they endeavoured to produce 3-year supplies. The biggest trade was in 1914: 800 000 bottles. Expansion can be placed around 1890. François sparkling wines spread beyond the domestic sales network and Europe through delegations and consulates, to places ranging from Tokyo to Los Angeles, from Melbourne to St. Petersburg. When war broke out in 1914, there were enormous supplies, but demand shrank by half. A military hospital was set up at the production site. In 1916-1917, 40 000 bottles were filled. The lack of labour was supplemented by Frenchmen from the nearby prisoner-of-war camp. The situation was the same for both François and Törley: no exports, a drop in domestic sales, and a rise in inventory; the quality of the resulting 4-5 year old sparkling wine, however, was excellent. Crisis came in 1920. In addition to national problems, the Treaty of Versailles subjected Hungarian wines and sparkling wine to stiff tariffs which crippled the industry. In 1921, Louis François died. After restructuring and inheritance procedures were completed, Cesar François managed the company; share in the company was split 60:40 with Louis François’ widow. From 1928, there was a noticeable upturn. In addition to the rise in domestic sales, there was an increase, though weak, in exports – interestingly enough, to the Middle East, the Balkans, Egypt, Albania, Holland, and through them, to the Dutch islands. Exports to Norway began to develop in 1923. From 1936, they delivered to the USA, Argentina, and Brazil. During these years annual distribution reached 100 000 bottles. In 1938, the company was again restructured. When Louis François’ widow resigned, the senior Cesar François took on his sons, Cesar, Louis, and József, as business partners. Because of the war and his sons’ absence, registration of the new company only took place in 1942. Development, though modest, continued; in 1941-1943, annual sales were 200 000 bottles. In the summer of 1944, six bombs strikes destroyed everything, wiping out the production facility and the inventory. The scattered family came together in 1946, completely at a loss, and tried to save what could be saved. In 1947 they filled 14 000 bottles, but only half of these had been sold by autumn 1949.
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