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Berwick-Upon-Tweed Three Places, Two Nations, One Town Berwick Text Pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page Ii Berwick Text Pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page Iii Berwick text pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page i Berwick-upon-Tweed Three places, two nations, one town Berwick text pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page ii Berwick text pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page iii Berwick-upon-Tweed Three places, two nations, one town Adam Menuge with Catherine Dewar Berwick text pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page iv Published by English Heritage, Kemble Drive, Swindon SN2 2GZ www.english-heritage.org.uk English Heritage is the Government’s statutory adviser on all aspects of the historic environment. © English Heritage 2009 Images (except as otherwise shown) © English Heritage, © English Heritage. NMR, © Crown copyright. NMR, © English Heritage. NMR. Aerofilms Collection or English Heritage (NMR) RAF photography. Figure 17 and the maps on the inside front cover, p 114 and inside back cover are © Crown Copyright and database right 2009. All rights reserved. Ordnance Survey Licence number 100019088. First published 2009 ISBN 978 1 84802 029 0 Product code 51471 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Front cover Berwick Bridge, built 1611–34, All rights reserved entered what was then still a heavily No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or fortified town from the south; the mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information or retrieval system, without the permission 18th- and 19th-century granaries in writing from the publisher. and houses rising above the Quay Walls reflect the town’s important Application for the reproduction of images should be made to the National Monuments Record. Every effort seaborne trade and the prosperity has been made to trace the copyright holders and we apologise in advance for any unintentional omissions, that it brought. which we would be pleased to correct in any subsequent edition of this book. [DP071102] The National Monuments Record is the public archive of English Heritage. For more information, contact NMR Frontispiece Enquiry and Research Services, National Monuments Record Centre, Kemble Drive, Swindon SN2 2GZ; The defence of the town and the telephone (01793) 414600. prosperity of its trade were objectives often at odds with one another. Typeset in ITC Charter 9.25 on 13pt Between Bridge Street, where many of Berwick’s merchants had their Photographs by Bob Skingle and Adam Menuge businesses, and the Quay, on which Aerial photographs by David MacLeod they relied for the movement of goods, Graphics by Allan T Adams and Philip Sinton a series of lanes and tunnels were Brought to publication by Rachel Howard, Publishing, English Heritage Edited by René Rodgers, Publishing, English Heritage created through the ramparts, which Page layout by George Hammond would otherwise have strangled the Printed in Berwick-upon-Tweed by Martins the Printers Ltd commercial life of the town. [DP065192] Northumberland County Council has made a financial contribution to the publication of this book. Berwick text pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page v Contents Acknowledgements vi Foreword ix 1 Introduction: a border town on the borders of change 1 2 A town takes shape 11 The landscape beneath 11 The Liberty of Berwick 16 Fruits of the earth 20 Communications 23 The buildings of the early town 26 3 Political, social and spiritual order 33 Defence of the realm 34 Competing faiths 39 Berwick corporation and local government 42 4 Commercial growth: Berwick looks abroad 49 The salmon fishery 50 The herring fishery 58 The Greenland whale fishery 58 The grain trade 60 The rebuilding of Berwick 62 5 Industry and housing: the 19th and 20th centuries 71 The rise of industry 71 Housing the poor 77 6 Leisurely pursuits 87 The growth of the resort 90 7 Safeguarding Berwick’s past for the future 99 Notes 110 References and further reading 111 Berwick text pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page vi Acknowledgements This book forms part of English Heritage’s contribution to and Archivist) and Vicki Perry (Assistant Archivist) at a wider collaboration with partners seeking to reconcile Hatfield House made available Fig 24, which appears by Berwick’s need to develop a vibrant, modern economy kind permission of the Marquess of Salisbury. Other with the obligation to respect its unique heritage. We are illustrations appear with the permission of the Bodleian grateful to our partners on the Berwick’s Future initiative – Library (Fig 4), Bridgeman Art Library (Fig 35a), British Berwick-upon-Tweed Borough Council, especially Shona Library (Figs 14, 28, 49 and 75) and The National Archives Alexander, Director of Regeneration & Development; (Figs 13 and 103). Berwick-upon-Tweed Town Council; Berwick Community For further invaluable assistance, advice and expertise Trust; Government Office for the North East; relating to aspects of Berwick’s architecture and history Northumberland County Council; Northumberland we are especially grateful to Francis Cowe (Berwick Strategic Partnership; One NorthEast; and the Local resident and historian) who, together with Linda Bankier, Strategic Partnership – for their continued support. commented helpfully on the text; Andrea Kirkham The photographs in this book have been specially taken (independent wallpainting specialist); Margaret Richardson by Bob Skingle with the exception of the image on p vii, (Lutyens Trust); Canon Alan Hughes (Vicar of Holy Trinity Figs 3, 7, 23, 58, 59, 84a,91,102,106 and 107 which were Church) who kindly allowed us to photograph his 1761 taken by Adam Menuge and Fig 112 which was taken by Book of Common Prayer (Fig 6); Annette Reeves and Peter Catherine Dewar. The aerial photographs are by David Rutherford (Berwick-upon-Tweed Borough Council); MacLeod except Figs 18, 36, 62, 71, 78 and 98. The drawn John Smithson (Berwick Preservation Trust); Harry figures are the work of Allan T Adams (Figs 17, 52, 63a and Beamish (The National Trust); Wendy Lynch (King’s Arms 85) and Philip Sinton (inside front cover, p 114 and inside Hotel); and Gavin Cairns (Freeman) for making a copy of back cover). Figs 15, 81, 87 and 89 are reproduced by James Good’s rare Directory available on the web. permission of Berwick-upon-Tweed Record Office where we Residents of Berwick, Tweedmouth and Spittal – many extend particular thanks to Linda Bankier and Carole of them members of Berwick Civic Society and Berwick Pringle for knowledgeable advice and generous assistance. Historical Society, and of the Berwick Building Recording Figs 27, 51 and 95 are included by permission of Berwick- Group, newly formed in pursuit of the town’s architectural upon-Tweed Museum & Art Gallery, where Chris Green and research potential – have given invaluable support. Special Jim Herbert gave similar support. For permission to thanks are offered to Alison, John and William Cowe, Lady photograph the Town Hall and its museum (Figs 43, 44, 45, Zoreen Hill, Ian Kille, David Mayers, Philip Miller, Judy 46, 50, 54 and 94), and for advice on its contents, we are Nicholson, Christopher and Do Shaw, Peter and Margaret indebted to Liam Henry (Clerk to the Berwick-upon-Tweed Thomas, Jim Walker and to Councillors Hazel Bettison Corporation (Freemen) Trustees) and Michael Herriott (last Mayor of Berwick Borough) and Peter Watts (Berwick- (Curator and Guide). Robin Harcourt Williams (Librarian upon-Tweed Borough Council’s Heritage Champion). vi Berwick text pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page vii Numerous debts within English Heritage must also be and Angharad Wicks (Aerofilms Collection, NMR), helped acknowledged. The early part of the project was undertaken in the provision of archive images. For other collaboration in conjunction with Matthew Withey, while Allison Borden, and encouragement thanks are offered to Kate Bould, Garry Corbett and Lucy Jessop assisted with later fieldwork. Nick Bridgland, John Cattell, Rachel Cross, Colum Giles, Lucy Jessop also undertook valuable work securing Bob Hawkins, Rachel Howard, Matthew Oakey, Paul Pattison, illustrative material. Clare Broomfield and Emma Carol Pyrah, Sally Radford, Martin Roberts, René Rodgers, Whinton-Brown in the NMR, together with Katy Whitaker Malcolm Sutcliffe, Myra Tolan-Smith and Humphrey Welfare. vii Berwick text pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page viii Places are composed of innumerable buildings and other features, but they are also bound together by ties, some tangible like the two road bridges linking Berwick and Tweedmouth, some intangible like the bonds formed by common building materials or patterns of trade and ownership. [NMR 20688/11] viiiviii Berwick text pages (Final) 18/5/09 3:49 PM Page ix Foreword Towns are among the most impressive, intricate and enduring Understanding Berwick’s historic environment is all the human achievements. They are artefacts on a grand scale – the more important now as the town contemplates its future. outcome in most cases of centuries of effort, both collaborative Concerns about Berwick’s long-term economic performance and competitive – and like other artefacts they can be damaged and ageing demographic profile, coupled with the recognition by careless handling. Yet towns must continue to change if they that development pressures were intensifying, led to the are to meet the needs of future generations, and for this reason inauguration in 2005 of a Berwick-upon-Tweed Masterplan, they will remain a focus for debate and sometimes contention. led by Berwick-upon-Tweed Borough Council with the support Meeting present needs and planning for the future, while of the regional development agency One NorthEast, English respecting the character and significance of what the past has Heritage and other regional and local partners. The Masterplan left behind, is a considerable challenge and a characteristically and subsequent Regeneration Stategy, now an integral part modern dilemma. of a wider Berwick’s Future initiative, sets out a vision for the Nikolaus Pevsner described Berwick-upon-Tweed as ‘one of town over the next 20 years and identifies where the principal the most exciting towns in England’1 – a place where an opportunities lie.
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