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COFFEE QUALITY, LAND USE, and PROCESSING in the CAJAMARCA REGION of PERU Jonathan E University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Anthropology Department Theses and Anthropology, Department of Dissertations Summer 6-12-2017 COFFEE QUALITY, LAND USE, AND PROCESSING IN THE CAJAMARCA REGION OF PERU Jonathan E. Ferguson University of Nebraska - Lincoln, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/anthrotheses Part of the Social and Cultural Anthropology Commons Ferguson, Jonathan E., "COFFEE QUALITY, LAND USE, AND PROCESSING IN THE CAJAMARCA REGION OF PERU" (2017). Anthropology Department Theses and Dissertations. 51. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/anthrotheses/51 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Anthropology, Department of at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Anthropology Department Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. COFFEE QUALITY, LAND USE, AND PROCESSING IN THE CAJAMARCA REGION OF PERU by Jonathan E. Ferguson A THESIS Presented to the Faculty of The Graduate College at the University of Nebraska In Partial Fulfillment of Requirements For the Degree of Master of Arts Major: Anthropology Under the Supervision of Professor Raymond Hames Lincoln, Nebraska August, 2017 COFFEE QUALITY, LAND USE, AND PROCESSING IN THE CAJAMARCA REGION OF PERU Jonathan E. Ferguson, M.A. University of Nebraska, 2017 Advisor: Raymond Hames Procedures used for defining coffee quality include a variety of activities ranging from physical measurements, hedonic sensory evaluations, and valuation of recognized extrinsic attributes. The physical measurements of coffee quality evaluate intrinsic attributes through a set of formal coffee grading and analysis standards, in addition to human sensory activities which conduct formal cupping protocol standards and formal tasting competitions. Extrinsic qualities include attributes such as branding and aesthetics, in addition to sets of ethical qualities established to further differentiate value beyond intrinsic and hedonic qualities. The promotion and standardization of coffee quality expectations directly impact activities taken by coffee producers. Achieving established quality expectations require coffee producers to adapt certain land-use practices and post-harvest processes activities which significantly impact their livelihoods. This thesis will examine how coffee quality is interpreted, standardized, and implemented within the coffee supply chain and will further investigate environmental and economic trade-offs quality standards impose on land-use and post-harvest processing activities. The thesis will approach defining coffee quality through a collection of three distinct categories; intrinsic, hedonic, and extrinsic quality. This examination aims to demonstrate how these categories of coffee quality impact decisions made in the daily activities of coffee farming communities. A descriptive account will be presented to demonstrate activities relating to land-use and post-harvest processing methods within three separate smallholder coffee farming communities in the Cajamarca Region of Peru. Observations were made to show a variety of economic and environmental tradeoffs for achieving quality standards driven by current market demands. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank my advisor Dr. Raymond Hames, and committee members Dr. Wayne Babchuk and Dr. Chuck Francis for their assistance throughout this thesis process. I would also like to sincerely thank Dr. Kyle Gibson, Dr. LuAnn Wandsnider, and Dr. Robert Hitchcock for sharing their knowledge and inspiration over the years. I would not have completed this process without support from the Arbor Day Foundation, Olam Agro Peru S.A.C., and community members throughout the Cajamarca Region of Peru. TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION ............................................................................. 1 Problem Statement ...................................................................................................... 1 Research Objectives .................................................................................................... 2 Significance of Study .................................................................................................. 2 Limitations and Assumptions of the Study ................................................................. 3 Research Methods ....................................................................................................... 4 CHAPTER TWO: LITERATURE REVIEW ................................................................ 8 History of Coffee and its Trade .................................................................................. 8 INTRINSIC COFFEE QUALITY ................................................................................ 13 Development of Physical Coffee Standards ............................................................. 14 Determinants of Intrinsic Coffee Qualities ............................................................... 16 Species and Varietal Selection .............................................................................. 17 Planting and Husbandry ........................................................................................ 18 Harvesting: Mechanical, Stripping. & Selective....................................................... 20 Mechanical Harvesting ......................................................................................... 20 Stripping ................................................................................................................ 21 Selective Harvesting ............................................................................................. 22 Post-Harvest Processing Methods: Fruit, Pulp, Parchment, & Seed-Dried .............. 23 Fruit-Dried ............................................................................................................ 26 Pulp-Dried ............................................................................................................. 32 Parchment-Dried ................................................................................................... 33 Seed-Dried (Wet-Hulled) ...................................................................................... 38 Drying and Storage ................................................................................................... 40 Roasting .................................................................................................................... 42 HEDONIC COFFEE QUALITY .................................................................................. 42 Physiology of Flavor ................................................................................................. 44 Variation of Perception and Preference of Flavor .................................................... 46 Aging..................................................................................................................... 46 Childhood .............................................................................................................. 47 Adulthood ............................................................................................................. 48 Biological Sex ....................................................................................................... 50 Cultural Influence ................................................................................................. 51 Professional Taste: Measuring Hedonic Qualities of Coffee .................................... 53 Coffee Cupping ..................................................................................................... 53 Cup of Excellence ................................................................................................. 54 The Good Food Awards ........................................................................................ 57 Age and Preference: A Coffee Tasting Experience .................................................. 59 Methods and Protocol ........................................................................................... 60 Descriptive Review ............................................................................................... 61 Coffee Tasting Data Analysis ............................................................................... 63 Chi-Square Results for Age and Preference ......................................................... 65 Accuracy of Taste Recognition in Relation to Age .............................................. 66 Chi-Square Results for Accuracy of Taste in Relation to Age ............................. 66 Discussion of Coffee Preference and Perception in Relation to Age ................... 67 Creating a Demand for Flavor: The Impact on Producers ........................................ 69 EXTRINSIC COFFEE QUALITY ............................................................................... 71 Category of Ethics..................................................................................................... 71 Category of Brand ..................................................................................................... 82 Category of Suitability .............................................................................................. 83 CHAPTER THREE: COFFEE IN THE CAJAMARCA REGION OF PERU ........ 84 Land Use Strategies: Traditional to Technified ...........................................................
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