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Jeollanam-Do

Jeollanam-Do

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Jeollanam-do

Includes  Why Go? ...... 209 This beautiful southwest province is one of ’s least Damyang...... 215 ­developed and greenest. The heartland of Jeollanam-do (전 Unju-sa...... 216 라남도) has rolling hills, the towering Sobaek Mountains to Gurye ...... 216 the east and 6100km of coastline to the south and west, with more than 2000 islands offshore – less than 300 of which are inhabited. The province was largely isolated for centu- & Around ...... 217 ries and it retains an off-the-beaten-track feel. It also has ...... 218 a rebel edge, and is proud of its ceramic and artistic tradi- Boseong ...... 221 tions, its exiled poets and its prodemocracy martyrs. Gangjin ...... 222 With a comparatively balmy climate, Jeollanam-do is fa- Haenam ...... 222 mous for its bountiful harvests, fresh seafood and , celebrated in several festivals. For all its rural atmosphere, Wando ...... 223 Jeollanam-do has urban elements too: Gwangju, the prov- ...... 225 ince’s largest city, has a hip vibe and an active arts scene Dadohae Haesang centred around a new, much-hyped cultural centre. It’s also National ...... 229 more accessible than ever, thanks to a faster KTX line that opened in 2015.

When to Go Best Places to Eat Gwangju ¨¨Dokcheon (p227) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 16/400 ¨¨Wonjo Jangsu 30/86 Tongdak (p223) 12/300 20/68 ¨¨Jeonsama (p224) 10/50 8/200

¨¨Yeongran Hoet-jip (p227) 0/32 4/100 -10/14

-20/-4 0 Best Places to J FDM A M J J A S O N Stay Jun–Aug Summer Sep The Gwangju Oct The Gwangju ¨¨Pedro’s House (p212) is the season for Biennale festival Kimchi Festival ferries to far-flung brings the glam- and the Namdo ¨¨Yuseongwan (p223) islands and lazing our of the art Food Festival hap- ¨¨Sinsiwa (p212) on sandy beaches. world to town. pen this month. SiGwangghtsj &u Activities 209 Road Hierarchy Hierarchy Hydro Symbols Off map dest'ns Jeollanam-do

- - - - UM 20 km http:// 10 miles E MUS Hadong Odongdo

Jirisan National Park Dolsando ). Geumodo Yeondo The Gwang Yeosu Donggwangyang All key roads labelled? All key roads Spot colours removed? Masking in Illustrator done? Inset/enlargement correct? Yeosu 0 0 Oenarodo Hwaeom-sa n F

Hyangir-am Gurye Suncheon SOUTH SEA 110 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu; Haseo-ro, 110 Book Notes Scale Title Nthpt (East China Sea) 062 570 7000; 062 570 48) Beolgyo

Jogyesan Provincial Park % ating still-wriggling ating still-wriggling g

KEY FORMAT SETTINGS Number of Rows (Lines) Column Widths and Margins Goheung Partaking in the Partaking E Watching the sunrise the sunrise Watching

; Chodo from the seaside hermitage hermitage the seaside from (p219 Hyangir-am 8 6 7 mysterious ‘parting of the of ‘parting mysterious as phenomenon known sea’ in Jindo Gyedo the Ganjuyuk (p229). octopus and seeing sunken sunken and seeing octopus ). in Mokpo (p225 ships Seongsa-ho Suncheon-ma Boseong Daehan Dawon Yulpo Geogeumdo 06/08/15 ). ). National Park 6 Damyang Cheonwang-bong (1187m) Folk Village Date Date Date Date Date Date Date Date Yiyang Sights Activities &

) and Cheongsando Chuam-ho 9am-6pm Tue-Sun; Naganeup-seong Gangjin Celadon Museum Jeju-do (100km) Boseong 국립광주박물관 National Museum Gwangju ( h collection the traces Museum’s ju National ryof harbouring artists and this is reflected in civic support for the arts. 1 The district museum is northwest of down 10-minute a a tunnel walk through town. It’s Gwangju from the under the expressway Gwangju to the Museum National Art Mu seum and the Gwangju which Museum, Folk are next to each other in a park along with Hall. the Biennale Exhibition gwangju.museum.go.kr; other city but its history but its city ­other sets apart: it in 1980 peacefula prodemocracy demonstration, Uprising, Democratic 18 the May as known then military by the put down was brutally Gwangjugovernment. a long histo also has Gangjin 3 Sinjido - - - - Soando Jangheung Wando Unju-sa Wolchulsan Naju-ho AlisonL National Park Gwangju Gwangju 광주 Wando Hampyeong Duryunsan Yeonggwang Marvelling at the Marvelling Spotting migratory birds birds migratory Spotting Seohaean(West Coast) Provincial Park Haenam Editor Check Editor Cxns MC Cxns Author Cxns Final Ed Cxns Initial Mapping MC Check MC/CC Signoff (p230 of Heuksando (p229). Hongdo fabled feasting in the rich wetlands wetlands in the rich feasting at Suncheon-man (p217 5 4 Expwy of houses thatched-roofed preserved the immaculately Naganeup- of town fortress (p217 Village seong Folk Nohwado Yeongam Bogildo ) Muan Jindo Muan Sea Road None Mysterious Mokpo Key Jindo Hajodo Songido Hataedo Oedaldo ; Apaedo Imjado Jungdo (p209 Gwangju Jeju-do (100km) Jaundo -do was a place of exile, a place -do was often National Park ) in Boseong. Jeollanum-do isiting kor9 oyaging to the to oyaging Dadohae Haesang Chapter Opening 1/2 page wide Chapter Opening V Korea 10 V Savouring the scenery the scenery Savouring

16-jeollanam-do-kor10 WEST SEA National Park (Yellow Sea) Chapter Author Border Basefile New References Book Dadohae Haesang File Jeollanam-do HighlightsJeollanam-do Daehan of the Daehan and flavours Plantation Tea Dawon (p221 scattered, unspoilt islands scattered, 3 2 1 for its vibrant arts and arts vibrant its for hiking urban scene, nightlife and solemn opportunities, memorials. 062 / POP1.48 MILLION Heuksando (33km) Hongdo (54km) Gwangju % Ko Gwangju (http://utour.gwangju.go.kr), anylook like may city, sixth-largest rea’s fied today with a flurry today fied of new projects. ment funds were withheld from the regionment funds were for decades, somethingrectiis being that Far from during the era, Joseon the Seoul during from Far ­ Jeollanam has continued; the provincelitical dissent militarythe to opposition of hotbed a was in the ruled that governments 1960s ’70s. and unionistsStudents and trade prodemocracyled countless protests and culminatingdemonstrations, in the 1980 uprising in Gwangju. As developresult, a History political and ground for a dumping used as Thereligious dissidents. of po tradition