©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Jeollanam-do Includes ¨ Why Go? Gwangju ....................209 This beautiful southwest province is one of Korea’s least Damyang .....................215 developed and greenest. The heartland of Jeollanam-do (전 Unju-sa ........................216 라남도) has rolling hills, the towering Sobaek Mountains to Gurye ..........................216 the east and 6100km of coastline to the south and west, with more than 2000 islands offshore – less than 300 of which Suncheon are inhabited. The province was largely isolated for centu- & Around ....................217 ries and it retains an off-the-beaten-track feel. It also has Yeosu ..........................218 a rebel edge, and is proud of its ceramic and artistic tradi- Boseong .....................221 tions, its exiled poets and its prodemocracy martyrs. Gangjin ...................... 222 With a comparatively balmy climate, Jeollanam-do is fa- Haenam ..................... 222 mous for its bountiful harvests, fresh seafood and green tea, celebrated in several festivals. For all its rural atmosphere, Wando .......................223 Jeollanam-do has urban elements too: Gwangju, the prov- Mokpo ....................... 225 ince’s largest city, has a hip vibe and an active arts scene Dadohae Haesang centred around a new, much-hyped cultural centre. It’s also National Park .............229 more accessible than ever, thanks to a faster KTX line that opened in 2015. When to Go Best Places to Eat Gwangju ¨ Dokcheon (p227) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 16/400 ¨ Wonjo Jangsu 30/86 Tongdak (p223) 12/300 20/68 ¨ Jeonsama (p224) 10/50 8/200 ¨ Yeongran Hoet-jip (p227) 0/32 4/100 -10/14 -20/-4 0 Best Places to J FDM A M J J A S O N Stay Jun–Aug Summer Sep The Gwangju Oct The Gwangju ¨ Pedro’s House (p212) is the season for Biennale festival Kimchi Festival ferries to far-flung brings the glam- and the Namdo ¨ Yuseongwan (p223) islands and lazing our of the art Food Festival hap- ¨ Sinsiwa (p212) on sandy beaches. world to town. pen this month. 209 History other city but its history sets it apart: in 1980 a peaceful prodemocracy demonstration, FarFile from16-jeollanam-do-kor10 Seoul during the Joseon era, known as the May 18 Democratic Uprising, JeollanamBook Korea -do10 was a place of Initialexile, Mapping oftenAlisonL Date 06/08/15 Road was brutally put down Scaleby theAll thenkey roads labelled?military Hierarchy Hydro usedChapter as Jeollanum-doa dumping ground for politicalEditor Cxns and Date Title Spot colours removed? government. Gwangju also has a long histo- Hierarchy religious dissidents. The tradition of po- Nthpt Masking in Illustrator done? Symbols Author MC Cxns Date ry of harbouring artistsBook and this is reflected Off map litical dissent has continued; the province Inset/enlargement correct? dest'ns Author Cxns Date Notes wasBorder a hotbedChapter Opening of opposition 1/2 pageKey Nonewide to the military in civic support for the arts. JEOLLANAM-DO governmentsBasefile kor9 that ruled South KoreaFinal Ed Cxns in the Date KEY FORMAT SETTINGS New References 1 Sights & ActivitiesNumber of Rows (Lines) 1960s and ’70s. Students and tradeEditor unionistsCheck Date led countless prodemocracy protests and The museum district is northwest of down- demonstrations, culminating inMC Checkthe 1980 town. It’sDate a 10-minuteColumn walkWidths and through Margins a tunnel under the expressway from the Gwangju uprising in Gwangju. As a result,MC/CC developSignoff - Date ment funds were withheld from the region National Museum to the Gwangju Art Mu- for decades, something that is being recti- seum and the Gwangju Folk Museum, which SI G wang fied today with a flurry of new projects. are next to each other in a park along with ghts the Biennale Exhibition Hall. J & AC & Gwangju National Museum MUSEUM U 광주 Gwangju (국립광주박물관; %062 570 7000; http:// % 062 / POP 1.48 MILLION gwangju.museum.go.kr; 110 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu; T Gwangju (http://utour.gwangju.go.kr), Ko- h g F IVI 9am-6pm Tue-Sun; 48) The Gwang- rea’s sixth-largest city, may look like any T ju National Museum’s collection traces the IE S 3 Damyang Songido Hwaeom-sa WEST SEA Yeonggwang 6 (Yellow Sea) Seohaean Gurye Jirisan Mudeungsan National Imjado Gwangju National Park Park Expwy Gwangju Cheonwang-bong (West Hampyeong (1187m) Hadong Jungdo Jogyesan Naju Yiyang Provincial Park Donggwangyang Muan Coast) Naju-ho Chuam-ho Muan Seongsa-ho Jaundo Unju-sa Naganeup-seong Suncheon Beolgyo Mokpo Wolchulsan Folk Village Yeosu Oedaldo National Park Odongdo Yeongam Boseong Suncheon-man Dadohae Haesang Apaedo Yeosu Jangheung Boseong Daehan National Park Dawon Dolsando Gangjin Yulpo Hataedo Haenam Hyangir-am Goheung Gangjin Celadon Museum Geumodo Jindo Oenarodo Jindo Duryunsan Heuksando (33km); Provincial Park Geogeumdo Yeondo Hongdo (54km) Mysterious Sea Road Wando Sinjido Hajodo Wando SOUTH SEA Dadohae Haesang (East China Sea) National Park Nohwado Jeju-do (100km) Chodo Jeju-do (100km) 0 20 km Bogildo Soando Cheongsando 0 10 miles Jeollanam-do Highlights 1 Visiting Gwangju (p209) of Heuksando (p230) and 6 Eating still-wriggling for its vibrant arts and fabled Hongdo (p229). octopus and seeing sunken nightlife scene, urban hiking 4 Marvelling at the ships in Mokpo (p225). opportunities, and solemn thatched-roofed houses of 7 Watching the sunrise memorials. the immaculately preserved from the seaside hermitage 2 Savouring the scenery fortress town of Naganeup- Hyangir-am (p219). and flavours of theDaehan seong Folk Village (p217). 8 Partaking in the Dawon Tea Plantation 5 Spotting migratory birds mysterious ‘parting of the (p221) in Boseong. feasting in the rich wetlands sea’ phenomenon known as 3 Voyaging to the at Suncheon-man (p217). the Ganjuyuk Gyedo in Jindo scattered, unspoilt islands (p229)..