OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION 11}PACIfIC ifraga,Azwe

The Peopling of the Pacific By DR. J. McMILLAN BROWN The Pan-Pacific Racial Problem By GEO. BRONSON REA The Monroe Doctrine of Asia By TAIZAN TSUJI, Ph. D.

Illustrated Articles From All Pacific Lands

.H114LTN

CLOSED DU 620 .M5 4. 1/E. filiii.parifir V magaztttr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD Vol. XVII. No. 2.

CONTENTS FOR FEBRUARY, 1919.

Our Art Section—The American Asiatic Asso. and "Asia" 102 The Red Cross in Japan 107 The Y. M. C. A. Pan-Pacific Conference 117 Rotarians and Pan-Pacific Work 125 By L. Tenney Peck. Hawaiian Editors in the Orient - - - - 128 The Honolulu Ad Club 129 By W. R. Farrington. The Peopling of the Pacific 133 By Dr. J. McMillan Brown. The Pan-Pacific Racial Problem 139 By George Bronson Rea. The Monroe Doctrine of Asia 145 The Other Side of Molokai 149 By. Dr. E. S. Goodhue. . Sydney's Botanical Garden 153 A Little Trip to Haight's Place 157 By 4. Dale Riley. "Shanghaied" and Some Impressions Gained - - - - 161 By J. W. Allen. New Zealand's Grand Motor Tour 165 By Elsie K. Morton. The Devil Dances of Manchuria 169 By Leon Waddell. An Hawaiian Night's Entertainment 173 By Frank P. White Australia's Great River 177 By R. 7'. McKay. The Largest Telescope in the World 181 By 7'. S. Schearmer. Rubber Cultivation in Malaya 185 By N. A. Banks. Kauai and Her Palis 189 By Vaughan MacCaughey. Bolivia the Land of Plenty 193 By Gornault Agassiz.

MR P. th-ilarifir Magazine HUMS itD Honolulu,ine T H Printed by the HonolulPuubSt3rh-eLlyetiAnL, ELtd.NDYEeaRrliTy the United. States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoflice.

Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine. I

Major Lloyd Carpenter Griscom is president of the American Asiatic Association which publishes the remarkable magazine "Asia." In 1893 he was secretary to Ambassador Bayard, then deputy attorney of New York City, an officer in the Spanish American war, Charge de Affaires at Constantinople, Envoy Extraordinary to Persia and to Japan, Ambassador to Brazil and to Italy. He is now an officer in the army. His Imperial Majesty Yoshihito, Emperor of Japan, friendly to the objects of both the American Asiatic Association and the Pan Pacific Union, is the 122nd emperor in lineal descent from Jimmu Tenno, who founded the empire in 650 B. C. He appoints the higher officers of the Red Cross Society in Japan, of which he is honorary head. He calls himself the father of his people.

The American Asiatic Association and "Asia"

T the head of the American "Mid-Pacific Magazine" wish to bring Asiatic Association is Lloyd C. the work of the American-Asiatic Asso- A Griscom (former Minister of ciation before the friends of the great Japan) ; its organ "Asia" is today the movement for friendly co-operative ef- most highly illustrated and instructive fort among Pacific people. magazine on Asia published anywhere The American Asiatic Association had in the world, John Foord, Secretary of its origin in a conference of merchants the Association, being the editor. and others interested in the defense and The objects of the American-Asiatic maintenance of the commercial rights Association are to foster and safeguard and privileges possessed by the United trade and commercial interests of the States in China, the conference was held citizens of the United States with Asiatic in New York city in January, 1898, and countries. Its head offices are in New the Chamber of Commerce at once came York City. forward with its hearty co-operation and The objects of the Pan-Pacific Union, support. with headquarters at the cross roads of Frequent occasions have been found the ocean, are to bring about co-opera- by the American Asiatic Association to tion among all Pacific lands, without spe- address the President of the United cial reference to any one country of the States and the Secretary of State, and Pacific, so that the aims of the two or- the advice has always met with co-op- ganizations splendidly dovetail, as they erative welcome. both fit in with the work of the Pan- In 1917 the Journal of the Association American Union ; perhaps in time they was enlarged and became "Asia" the will all be drawn together. official organ, sent to all members of the The American Asiatic Association Association. The membership takes aims to contribute to a satisfactory ad- women in its fold and the dues are justment of the relations between the merely nominal. It is the aim of "Asia" Asiatic countries and the rest of the to tell facts concerning more than half world by removal of sources of misun- the population of the globe who live with- derstanding and the dissipation of igno- in the 17,213,000 square miles of Asia, rant prejudices, and this it is doing to tell of the aspirations of contemporary splendidly through its official organ, Japan. and modern China, to expound "Asia." Further, the Association is what appears to be the dominant im- pledged to co-operate with all other pulses of both, and to furnish trustworthy agencies to remove existing obstacles to information in regard to commercial, in- peaceful progress and well-being of peo- dustrial and financial developments. The ples of Asiatic countries, and here again policy of the Journal of the Association, it has shown its earnestness in co-operat- as of the Association itself, rests on the ing with the work of the Pan-Pacific confident belief that American sentiment Union. There is a great work before the is friendly to both China and Japan, and two organizations, and the success of the that the controlling American aim is the Pan-American Union only demonstrates creation of better and more intimate re- that the desire for a friendly co-opera- lations with both, and the extending of tion of all Pacific lands is no idle dream, such help as is possible toward bringing but one that can be made a reality per- each into better relations with the other. haps through the endeavors of the or- The American Asiatic Association it is ganizations now seeking to bring this hoped will play a prominent part in the about. Pan Pacific Conference of 1920 at the Both the Pan-Pacific Union and the cross roads of the Pacific, Honolulu. The Red Cross in Japan

By a Field Officer to the Orient of the American Red Cross

FTER working in the Red Cross headquarters in Washington it is A something of a change to find yourself in Tokyo entering a great dig- nified brick structure which is the home of the Japanese Red Cross. With them it is as if the establishment were fully completed, with smooth-running ma- chinery ; while we have been setting up the plant, building a great organization, and doing a business of gigantic pro- portions—all at the same time and with almost incredible results. In Japan everything is stately ; the building has great rooms for receptions, for dinners, for meetings, apartments for officials ; and the business seems to go as quietly as if it had been running forever. Even the attendant at the door receives you with a quiet and respectful demeanor which makes you realize that you are in an Oriental country ; and as you go up the great steps to meet the officials, you are impressed with the fact that such an organization as this has been gradually attaining its present efficiency through the efforts of years and years. If you are so fortunate—as I was—to be invited to meet the President, Baron Ishiguro; the Vice-President, Mr. Hira- yama ; and the Secretary, Mr. Togo, as a representative of a sister society eight or ten thousand miles away, you will be received with great cordiality. Mr. To- Baron Ishiguro is president of the Japanese go, the Secretary, will talk to you in Red Cross society. He is a retired sur- perfect English. and act as interpreter geon-general of the army, he understands for the other members of the Board. spoken English and is an accomplished French scholar. All, or nearly all of them have visited in the United States, and they know 1885 ; and describe the building up of much more about the American Red the idea, through the war with Russia Cross than we know about the Japanese and the war with China ; of the relations Red Cross. Again, you are impressed with the United States and the American with the quiet orderliness as compared nurses who went to help out in those with the hurly-burly of the scores of times of misery in Japan and Russia, as offices at home, with a telephone ring- they have gone to help in Belgium and ing at every desk, employees running in France. These nurses were offered pay- and out, and hosts of visitors. ment for their services by the war de- If, on the other hand, you should ar- partment, which one is proud to see was rive on a meeting day, we will say, of the returned to Japan, with the explanation committee of ladies of the Society, you that they had come to help without pay. may have the pleasant experience of at- You find here the record of the begin- tending a Japanese affair which has all ning of the plan to stamp out tuberculo- the charm of a children's party as well sis, the relief of prisoners, and all the as an official function. The Japanese familiar things which we are struggling know well how to play and to enjoy the through today and which Japan went things which are simple and natural. through years ago. For instance, at cherry-blossom time But to get over these statistics ; the each year the annual meeting of the latest figures may not appear to be so whole organization is held in Shiba great in comparison with the situation Park, and from 30,000 to 40,000 mem- which exists in this world war ; but it is bers attend. Here they listen to speeches right to remember that the numbers and enjoy nature at the same time, in the mentioned refer to a time when Japan Japanese springtime when the world is was far removed from the battlefield. at its best. Still we read of two splendid hospital The Society has nearly two million ships, named Hakuai Maru (Philan- members ; it has been actively at work thropy) and Kosai Maru (Humanity), for over thirty years improving and per- of 126 relief detachments consisting of fecting its buildings, hospitals, and store- trained nurses and trained assistants ; of houses in various parts of the Empire. 197 physicians organized and working ; In 1916 it had come to a position which of 330 head nurses ; of 5,000 trained was unique at that time among the Red nurses and their attendants ; of surgical Cross associations of the world—larger instruments in proper units ready for membership, very perfect organization, immediate use in the storehouses all over many things undertaken, and the ability Japan, with bandages, hospital appli- to face any emergency, whether war or ances, stretchers, ambulances, etc. Then civil relief, with a seriousness of prepa- there are naval hospitals and military ration quite beyond the work of other hospitals, and stories of what the Japa- societies of its kind, as well befitting a nese Red Cross has contributed in band- society which had gone through the fire ages, in drugs and medical supplies of of two great wars. various kinds to their Allies, even to It is hard to get people to read sta- 10,000 pounds of Japanese tea sent to tistics, but since some have been given the Italian Red Cross Society. already, it will do us good to turn for a Perhaps most interesting of all is the minute to the history of the institution fact that they welcome the idea of co- built up by our Oriental friends—which operating with us. Baron Ishiguro is issued in attractive bulletins, each bul- writes : "I feel as if I am working with letin covering several years. The vol- you in the same room for the same cause umes are five in number, printed in of humanity. ._ The spirit of the Red English, and charmingly and quaintly Cross has no boundary of State, neither written. They tell the story of the Red has it any religious prejudice, nor any Cross achievements running back to racial distinction." atiar,r

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e ar se he T

A. L. Castle, who left the leadership of Red Dr. A. F. Jackson, at Red Cross work in Si- Cross work in Hawaii to take charge of beria, an ex-worker in the Pan-Pacific Y. the work in Siberia. M. C. A., Honolulu.

Riley H. Allen, ex-editor Honolulu Star- C. K. Ai, a leading Red Cross worker in Ha- Bulletin, now in Red Cross Service in waii, director of Pan-Pacific Union, and on Vladivostok, Siberia. board of Pan-Pacific Y. M. C. A. work. 0.11r fliagazint CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

Volume XVII. FEBRUARY, 1919. No. 2.

The Pan Pacific Y. M. C. A., Honolulu.

The Y. M. C. A. Pan-Pacific Conference Secretaries from all Pacific lands nvited to the Pan-Pacific Congress in Honolulu, 1920.

Throughout the Pacific, Y. M. C. A. men have taken a great interest in the ethics of the Pan-Pacific Movement. During Pan-Pacific week in Honolulu an Inter-island Pan-Pacific Conference was held, and at this conference were many Shintoists and Buddhists, all of whom were glad to unite in cooperative work for the betterment of man-power condition in Hawaii. The following are the talks given by the leaders of the Pacific races in Y. M. C. A. work in. Hawaii, and the Y. M. C. A. secretaries in every city of the Pacific are urged next Balboa, or Pan-Pacific Day, September seventeenth, to hold kindred get-together sessions. HE leader in Pan-Pacific work Mr. Killam's remarks were as follows : among the Y. M. C. A.'s in Ha- "The object of the Pan-Pacific move- T waii is Lloyd Killam. The 1917 ment according to its charter is "to bring Pan-Pacific Conference of Y. M. C. A. into closer relation the different races of workers in Hawaii was held at the Pan- the Pacific that there may be brought Pacific Y. M. C. A. Building on Nuuanu abOut a better understanding among and Avenue, Honolulu, and was attended by of Pacific peoples." 200 delegates of all races of the Pacific. "If I am permitted to speak about this

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118 THE MID-PACIFIC

Pan-Pacific Y. M. C. A. Dinner.

Association with which I am identified I training center for secretaries from would like to call your attention to the China, Japan and Korea. fact that here is an organization which "That this organization has work es- has similar aims to the Pan-Pacific tablished in the Orient has been men- movement. We believe the Pacific races tioned. Very large cities in Japan, China have many things in common, and that and Korea have an Association or they by close association these will be dis- are endeavoring to organize one. It was covered. We have a board of manage- to these organizations Mr. Ford went ment with Chinese, Japanese, Koreans when he arrived in Tokio, Seoul, Shang- and Americans working together. Here hai and Peking. He was everywhere ex- we have secretaries from these Pacific tended a cordial welcome and in several countries who spend most of their work- cities the leaders of the Association work ing hours together. Here we have men are the leaders of the Pan-Pacific move- of different tongues using the reading ment. Mr. Ford visited the Associations and game rooms and eating their meals in Australia, South America, India and together. Here we have young men and the Philippines. I can assure you that boys studying in the same classes, play- in each of these countries he found that ing on the same athletic courts and this organization had strong branches mingling together in their social life. waiting to extend aid to the Pan-Pacific The few months which this building has movement. They are in fact day and been open has led us to feel certain that night •working to the same end as this one of the results of this work will be movement. That end I take to be the the bringing into closer relationship of establishing of inter-racial brotherhood. the different races of the Pacific. "We talk much of inter-racial brother- "Recently Mr. Ford adopted this as hood these days. Some people think it the Pan-Pacific Y. M. C. A. It was well can be based upon commerce alone. But that he did for we would have had to commerce without an unselfish ideal only adopt the Pan-Pacific movement because leads to strife such as is going on in the objects of the two organizations are Europe today. This organization be- very similar. The Pan-Pacific Y. M.' C. lieves that not until men come to see A. proposes to extend its influence that we are all brothers because we are throughout the Orient by making this a sons of one Father will there be real THE MID-PACIFIC 119

The dining room of 'the Pan-Pacific Y. M. C. A. brotherhood. There is going on in been termed. In some of those instances, America today a wonderful piece of Pan- if it is traced right back, it is ignorance. Pacific work. If is that done by the The people who have this feeling do not Y. M. C. A. by gathering together in know what they are talking about. Here eight summer conferences the students in the islands we are brought into close from China, Japan, Korea, the Philip- touch with all races, and a better feel- pines and other Pacific countries. The ing exists where contact is possible. object of these gatherings is to lead "Looking into the future one is led to these students to realize that only believe the nations are going to know through spiritual unity can real inter- each other better than before, and the racial brotherhood be established. Thus question of doing away with war will this organization believes it can render be when the nations of the world know its most vital aid to the Pan-Pacific each other so well that they will not movement through its work of develop- want to fight. ing spiritual connection among the lead- "On Maui we have no Y. M. C. A. ers of all Pacific countries." work, but we have a similar work that Mr. Killam introduced Mr. Will J. is handled in various ways correspond- Cooper, from the Island of Maui, editor ing to the work of that institution. The of the Maui News, who said main thing is to get the people to work "Rambling along a bit, this matter of harmoniously together. The Boys' getting together is one of the great big Working Reserve movement on Maui needs of today, not on Maui alone, nor should be mentioned in this connection. the other islands, but of the whole world. The full advantage of the opportunity Getting together simply means know the of this Boys' Reserve idea was not made other fellow a little better than you did possible. The idea of this work was before. You come to know a man from probably accentuated a little to strength- brushing up against him—call it personal en the 'get together' movement, and if contact. In most cases you find out that the Y. M. C. A. with its idea of mixing he is a very much different fellow from some play with the work, or making work what you thought he was. with play could be inaugurated, Maui, "In different parts of the United States which as a center is too scattered, if it there has been a race feeling, as it has could reach out in the camps, in the 120 THE MID-PACIFIC

The night school at the Pan-Pacific Y. M. C. A.

plantations, and interest these boys and the control of the Chinese Y. M. C. A. the young men that are there, it would but is unequipped and does not appeal to pay a hundredfold. the younger generation of Chinese. The "The Boys' Working Reserve idea was immigrants for whom the work was to inspire these little fellows with the started no longer come-to Hawaii. idea of helping for patriotic reasons to "For several years Mr. Killam, who produce sugar, and they went to it after was and is still connected with the Cen- they got the inspiration. They are not tral Y. M. C. A., advocated the forma- getting all they should get in return. They tion of an Oriental work along Y. M. should have in their leisure time some- C. A. lines that should be absolutely thing to fill their minds, which unfortu- inter-racial. This movement was heart- nately we do not have enough of. If ily indorsed by the younger generation there is a movement on foot to spread of Chinese who were fast becoming this work through the islands the Y. M. Americanized. They were joining the C. A. workers should see to it that Maui Central Y. M. C. A. quite generally, but is not left out." still felt the need of just such an insti- In Pan-Pacific spirit Mr. Cooper intro- tution as the Nuuanu Y. M. C. A. has proved to be. duced Mr. Y. C. Yapp, who said : "When it was finally decided to erect "The Chinese Y. M. C. A. work is the such a building and carry on such a oldest work of its kind in the territory. work the Chinese of the city entered a It was inaugurated about the year 1879. strong committee and cordially subscrib- Of the charter members there are now ed of their means to support the project. left but four or five and I doubt if many The institution as it stands today with of the present population of Honolulu its classes in business courses, English even know that there is a Chinese and military training, embodies the Pan- Y. M. C. A. Pacific spirit of get together. "The building and work of the Chi- "The work has stood the test of time nese Y. M. C. A. originated with a few and is now no longer an experiment. Chinese merchants for the primary pur- Chinese merchants and young men should pose of doing Association work among see to it that the work does not lack the Chinese immigrants of that day. The financial and moral support and that it old building still stands just off Bere- should touch all the Chinese of the city, tania street near Fort. It is still under thereby bringing them in a close fellow- THE MID-PACIFIC 121

Chinese officers in training, members of the Pan-Pacific Y. M. C. A.

ship of brotherly love with all the men good-will unite the West and the East of the city." through the globe-girdling influence of Mr. Yapp then introduced Dr. I. the Y. M. C. A.?" Moroi, a director of the Japanese Y. M. Mr. Dizon, introduced by Dr. Moroi C. A., who said : and speaking for the Filipinos said : "The Japanese Y. M. C. A. as a dis- "In speaking of the need for Y. M. C. tinctive body was organized about 1898. A. work among the Filipinos on Hawaii Because of the loneliness of the organi- one must mention the fact of the great zation, standing as it did for Japanese amount of crime committed by them. In alone, the truth was forced upon them ; calling attention to this fact it is well to that an Association must exist for its note the reason for it. community rather than for any race in "Not all the crime which the Filipino that commuity. has committed in Hawaii is due to in- "Learning from their more fore- herited instinct, but much of it arises sighted American friends the Japanese from their environment. True, when Association, as the years passed, laid they come here most of them are of the hold of the idea of an inter-racial work lowest class. They are not familiar with for the Oriental community. This idea the ideas and customs we have in Ha- gradually became more tangible and the waii. They meet new conditions and are Japanese claim to have added pne more unable to cope with them for they are characteristic to the manifold life of the surrounded with unwholesome influences. Association, that of inter-racial good- "An investigation of their conditions will, or as it is lately become known, the shows first that their plantation life, save Pan-Pacific feeling. for the few hours they work, is one of "The Japanese cooperating with other idleness. You find them sitting about races along Y. M. C. A. lines in the their unequipped camps and naturally territory of Hawaii have imbibed the their thoughts turn to mischief. Evil ' social feeling that binds them to all parts thoughts are certain to come because of the globe. their minds are not occupied with that "There are many business deals where which is wholesome. two or more nationalities cooperate. "Then too the Filipino has been the There are boards where many nations are victim of exploitation. He has been ex- represented. There are diplomatic boards ploited not only by the white man and where all nations meet happily. Why the Hawaiian, but also by the Japanese should not the spirit of friendship and and his own countrymen. There are in- 122 THE MID-PACIFIC stances on record where he has paid as Nuuanu Y. M. C. A. is the best illus- high as eighty dollars for a few moments tration of what can be obtained by a body of service that a Y. M. C. A. man would permeated by this spirit. The splendid have gladly rendered gratis. success of this organization is bound up "He cannot read nor write the Eng- in the fact that it is inter-racial. The lish language, therefore he is at the Pan-Pacific feeling, like the Y. M. C. A., mercy of unprincipled lawyers and other recognizes no Korean, Japanese or sharpers. It is no wonder that in a Chinese, but looks on all as brethren. It spirit of revenge he commits some of the is the feeling of brotherhood that brings crime, though not all, that is laid at his us heart to heart and creates through- door. out the world the spirit of brotherly feel- "The Y, M. C. A. especially with its ing. educational department is badly needed "In establishing this institution in this to teach him how to read and write community Mr. Killam has undertaken English. This would serve two pur- the first thing of this nature that has poses, that of occupying his idle moments ever been started, and we see in the suc- in acquiring knowledge, and giving in- cess of this movement a feeling that is formation that would save him from ex- reaching out and embracing men, regard- ploitation. less of race, everywhere. "The Filipino is a friendly fellow. He "The Pan-Pacific feeling as generated hungers for the love of his fellow men. by the Y. M. C. A. has reached even to That love that Christ offers to all man- Korea, the center of the East, where a kind. That love that the Y. M. C. A. building, donated by an American, is professes to diffuse among all mankind. standing as a monument to the spirit that "When once we know the Filipino we unites all mankind. It is within the find he is not really vicious, that he is buildings of this truly Pan-Pacific organ- made of the same clay that we are, and ization that a man finds himself related to it is only his condition and environment other men, and is at home with the which make him in anyway a menace to brotherhood." society. The Young. Men's Christian Dr. Rhee then introduced Mr. L. Mc- Association, with its spirit of service, Kaye, editor of the Hilo Tribune, who can and should go to the Filipino, in this spoke on the big island and the big territory, and arouse within him the spirit movement, and said : of devotion and service that is latent "The island of Hawaii as we call the there !" big island of the Group, is nearly as Dr. S. Rhee, representing the Koreans large as the State of Massachusetts, in Hawaii was introduced by Mr. Dizon while the big movement, which is the and said : work and service of the Y. M. C. A. "It would require far more time and covers practically the entire civilized space than is at my disposal and more world. ability than I have to do justice to the "On the big Island of Hawaii condi- subject that I have been asked to treat. tions are ripe for the inauguration of The Brotherhood of the Y. M. C. A. has Y. M. C. A. service in its most import- for its object the development of the ant branch, helping those who need help spirit of getting together. most to experience an ambition for a "Speaking along the lines of Pan-Pa- higher, cleaner more satisfying daily life. cificism as applied to the Y. M. C. A. the Within the confines of the Territory of inter-racial movement as developed by the Hawaii I believe there is no greater field THE MID-PACIFIC 123 than that new and untried one where the fields in this world, and right at our sugar plantations cover the hundreds of doors, where—if what the Y. M. C. A. square miles of the Hamakua coast, and sincerely seeks to do is good for the where thousands of human beings, men good's sake—there is wonderful oppor- from strange lands, falter through their tunity for real service. day's work without one helping hand to "In this respect it could be suggested guide them, or one ray of spiritual light that, with the aid of the plantations, the to be reflected in their souls. Y. M. C. A. could now utilize the Na- "True, the Board of the Hawaiian tional Guard armories which so many of Evangelical Association has made in a the plantations have built, but which are religious way conscientious ,and unselfish not now used for national guard pur- efforts to reach many of the people on poses. These buildings could be made the Big Island. But anyone who has had the center from which the Y. M. C. A. experience with Y. M. C. A. work must work among the men of the plantations be convinced that its faculty of reaching would radiate, and surely as the value of into the daily life of a man and boy to the Y. M. C. A. work along these lines is develop the best that is•in them and lead manifested the movement would receive them through their interest in life around the unqualified support of all interested. them to a higher plane of action and "You who are at the head of the Y. M. thought, is one of the great assets of C. A. affairs here in the name of Chris- the Association and of that community tian service think it over." which backs the association in its great Mr. McKaye then introduced Mr. J. work. 0. Warner of the island of Kauai, who "It would seem that the time has now said : come when the Y. M. C. A. should take "A visit to the Island of Kauai will up that work which will bring the best convince even the most cynical of the results to humanity as a whole in this Territory : to get into the country and fact of Pan Pacific feeling that can be on the plantations, where the work of and is being developed there. On Kauai the association is needed to so improve can be seen the different nationalities liv- surroundings and mental conditions ing and working together, though many among the men, who need such help in of them come from Honolulu to Kauai the spirit of Christ, that at least the ma- for temporary stay only. On this island jority of them will forget to seek less was conducted by the Y. M. C. A. a pleasant surroundings in distant lands Boys' Working Reserve movement num- or on the coast. Locked in the service bering 100 boys. No better illustration coffers of the Y. M. C. A. rests the gift of true Pan-Pacific ideals could be given. of contentment. Who has the key? In this camp all the diffent nationalities "The Y. M. C. A. has spent millions of worked splendidly together, played dollars and the efforts of countless young splendidly together and at times endured and gifted men in military cantonments punishment together. They planted 150 in this country, and right here we have acres of sugar cane and so opened the an Army and Navy Y. M. C. A. home way for 60 plantation workmen to do costing a large amount of money. Of other duties on the plantation. The boys the importance and value of this work made good with their work. there can be no doubt, but even while "There were school boys, high and acknowledging this importance one can grammar school boys, some of whom had not help but feel that there are other never been away from home before. , 124 THE MID-. PACIFIC

They did wonderful work, and got along "I have watched hundreds of baseball, together in a most satisfactory way. football and basketball games and I "On the Island of Kauai women of think that I have not as yet ever heard all the different nationalities are doing contending teams speak contemptuous- wonderful Red Cross work together. ly of each other by reference to their Some of them are turning out something color or nationality. The usual ragging like 35 suits of pajamas per week. and expressions of contempt for the abil- "The night schools started by the Y. ity of opposing teams are voiced in the M. C. A. a year or two ago and other same language which the American types of work such as citizenship clubs group of boys would use. It is signifi- and debating societies under the direction cant that one never hears, "Oh, you bone- of the Y. M. C. A. are doing much to head Chink," or "Oh, you Jap," but promote the Pan-Pacific idea of loyalty those expressions so commonly heard on to home and brotherly friendliness to all. many an American field which sound so Kauai is certainly on the Pan-Pacific map severe and ofttimes appear rude are in placed there by the Y. M. C. A." reality becoming a legitimate part of the Mr. Warner introduced Glen Jackson, game. . athletic secretary of the Y. M. C. A., who "Our local high school is made up of said : many nationalities. The American boy "If, in the coming years, our country is not outnumbered in his influence nor should go to war with any other large power, neither does he lead in these fac- nation surrounding the Pacific, it will be, tors. When it comes to the annual elec- I believe because inter-racial athletics tion of football captain, it has been have not had their way. And, con- my observation that race does not ma- versely, if, as we in Hawaii confidently terially enter into the consideration. I believe, there will never be any conflict have seen five football captain elections between America and Japan, China or in this large, cosmopolitan high school. any other large powers in the far East, One year it was an American boy ; the the athletics conducted between the races next year they chose a Hawaiian ; the must be given full credit. third year it was a Japanese ; the fourth "This is why I so firmly believe in the a Hawaiian, and the fifth a Japanese. athletic program as conducted by the "Generations of boys growing up un- Y. M. C. A. It is for no one race and der these conditions, taking their show- draws no color line. A boy is a boy er baths together, training together, or- and his only classification is by years. ganizing their football campaign to- He is a twelve to fifteen-year-old boy and gether, cannot grow up to think of each therefore a junior—not a Japanese. He other as Japanese, Chinese or Haole is a fifteen to eighteen year old boy and (white man), but will think of each oth- therefore a senior—not a Siamese. As er, rather, in exactly the same terms as we watch Chinese and Japanese, Korean, John Smith thinks of Tad Jones in the Hawaiian, Filipino and American boys little town of the middle west. And playing together in a baseball game, we with such institutions as the Pan-Pa- too often ,forget that, on the mainland, cific Union and the Y. M. C. A. backing for instance, the color line is so often up large inter-racial athletic contests drawn, and in the pleasant and whole- similar in nature to the Olympic Games, some rivalry which exists here, we for- they will grow up a generation of youth get that a different condition might easily which will never stand for an inter-ra- exist. cial conflict." Rotarians and the Pan-Pacific Conference

By L. TENNEY PECK.

L. Tenney Peck.

Doubtless delegates from all Rotary clubs in cities of the Pacific lands will attend the Pan-Pacific Congress in Honolulu, in 192o; there will be a Rotarian session. During Balboa week in Honolulu the Rotary Club there held an inter- island Pan-Pacific session, at which Mr. L. Tenney Peck told something of the ideals of the Rotary movement. 4 4 A LTHOUGH perhaps one of "And when we say the vital principle the oldest in years in this in our society is Brotherhood, then, my Club I am one of its youngest fellow Rotarians, I think we have found members, a novitiate as it were, and here that it falls into the category of those I have been asked to tell you old-timers institutions that reflect the sweetest, what I know about Rotary ! most beautiful, and most grand ideals "I must confess that I have found out of humanity itself. For without Brother- more about Rotary right amongst you hood we are all machines doing some- and in the atmosphere of these Rotary thing at the will of another and not be- cause, as men, we love the doing of it Club meetings than I have found in the in mutual service. And as the fulfilling literature of Rotary. Why? Because of the law of religion is brotherhood so Rotary is not a system, it is not a com- it is the fulfilling of the plan of human plex organization, it does not have existence, and when we understand that definite things to do, nor, perhaps as a Rotarianism occupies such a position we body to do much of anything. So when will know that its capacity for influence you ask me what Rotarianism is I can will be limited only by the number of its but ask of you : what is Odd Fellowship ; adherents, by the number of those who what is Pythianism ; what is Masonry ; can qualify and get into its splendid what is Americanism ; what is Christi- circle. anity? We know of one thing at the "And what are the qualifications of a center of them all, and it is right at the Rotarian? The essential qualifications very core of Rotarianism, and—I am sure of a Rotarian are that he be an up- you will all agree with me—that central standing man, a man of business, a man principle is Brotherhood. of solvency ; that he be a man who

125 126 THE MID-PACIFIC guides his actions according to sound, Brother Belser, knows that no wall is well recognized moral principles ; that properly laid without some bricks put in he be a man who is willing not only to as binders so laid as to hold the wall do justice to himself but more than jus- together, and as loyal Rotarians we should tice to his neighbor. More than justice endeavor to so place ourselves as to to his neighbor, I say, and just remember make the structure being built here that, because to be just is not to be the stronger and better from the way each best sort of an individual. Without jus- of us does his part in his own place. tice no good society can exist, but to "Now coming down to the practical be more than just, to be generous—not aspect of Rotarianism we have adopted only to your fellow Rotarians, but to all one simple expedient calculated to cut those with whom you deal in business, out jealousies and prejudices in our body whom you meet in society—means that that might exist in a more inclusive body you are going to be a telling force with of business men. We limit the member- power superadded for the good of hu- ship in the Rotary Club to one from man kind. I assume that a man does each calling, trade or profession, so that not go into this Society for his own sake when a man rises here to say a word or but goes in to serve and to direct his two about his own business he is not look- services if possible along those lines that ing into the eyes across the table of one will bring about in others greater ability of his keen competitors, so that every for service. He goes into this circle of member has permanent freedom from Rotarians for inspiration ; he goes in here that handicap. not to act with them as a concrete mass "I have no doubt that a Rotarian can or body so they may move as a unit look into the eyes of his competitors and along certain lines on a single project, feel that he can say: 'You have nothing but to be inspired and heartened, so that against me,' but nevertheless he has a as an individual he can go out again into certain freedom here in the fact that he his shop, into his trade, into his profes- is not surrounded by men of his own sion, and so conduct himself in his voca- calling, or in the same line of business. tion that it will be seen that there is high "And we have here merchants of every business principle within him, a little dif- sort, men of every profession, men of ferent perhaps from what is seen in some every calling; we have preachers, we others in that he is not trying so hard have lawyers, we have dentists, we have to serve himself ; not trying to enrich doctors, and we have undertakers. We himself by getting ahead at the expense have men of almost every kind of local of others, but is trying to gain a fair business in a club which hardly numbers reward for his labor or from his trans- one hundred. We have representati:•es actions, and so doing it that those with of almost every standard profession ar.d whom he deals gain some good also as calling found in many large cities else- he gains himself. where, and I think it a remarkable thing "An old teaching in political economy, that in Honolulu, in a city of this size, at the basis of that science, is that in with its limited Caucasian population, every fair bargain both sides gain, and we can have such a diversity of profes- I figure it that no Rotarian will try to sions and callings represented. make any bargain but a fair one. "Another idea about Rotarianism is , "And Rotarianism is something which this : That while we do not as a unit shows business men how to bind them- father any particular social movement we selves together. Now, my good friend, try to so influence the minds of our THE MID-PACIFIC 127 members that each one of us will get these races who are getting, through this behind good community movements as Pan-Pacific movement, to know each an individual, and going from the Rotary other better and better. Club he will continue to pass up his con- "Finally, gentlemen, don't for a mo- tributions to those splendid causes of the ment think that the Society is not an Red Cross, the Liberty Bonds and War institution of influence because it does Savings Stamps, Belgian Relief and other not have a complex system of rules and like objects, and back up by his influence regulations. Its form is very simple ; and personal service every good com- it depends upon the strengthening of munity movement whenever feasible for right sentiment, and gentlemen, it is him to do it. sentiment that through its crystallization "It not only stands for all that, but into words and deeds has not only driven Rotarianism is essentially an international the world in the past but today is driving organization, and its branches are now the German enemy of Man to his last spread out so far and wide that they are resort, driving him to his knees ; that reaching people almost around the whole true sentiment, the sentiment of brother- world. And so we come into this Pan- hood, the sentiment of love for humanity, Pacific Conference week as Rotarians to of sympathy for the masses of men and lend our influence, our sympathy, to that of the corresponding hatred of autocracy splendid movement, also based on the which, working upon our minds and feeling voiced in common by Rotarians souls, is solving the problem of the ages everywhere—that of the Brotherhood of and is ever crushing out that opposing Man—destined to extend around all these spirit represented by the Kaiser of shores of the Pacific and amongst all Germany." 1' Hawaiian Editors in the Orient SPREAD OF PAN-PACIFIC PROPAGANDA.

The Pan-Pacific Association was host would not surge into the political arena November 9, at a farewell dinner given all at once. He saw no "Yellow Peril" in in honor of R. 0. Matheson, former ed- Hawaii's future. itor of The Advertiser, and Riley H. Al- On Mission of Peace. len, former editor of the Honolulu Star Bulletin, both of whom left a few days Messrs. Matheson and Allen, he said, later for the Far East. were going to the Orient to preach the Messrs. Matheson and Allen had seats gospel of peace and understanding, Mr. of honor on either side of Governor Mc- Allen to help bind up the wounds of Carthy, other special guests being L. A. war and Mr. Matheson to carry on in Thurston, proprietor of The Advertiser ; Japan the work he has been doing in W. R. Farrington, general manager of Hawaii for several years, the cement- the Star-Bulletin United States District ing of a friendship between the races Attorney S. E. Huber, Y. Soga, editor based on understanding. He knew no of the Nippu Jiji, representing the Jap- one, he said, better prepared for this anese press ; E. L. S. Gordon, consul for work, owing to Mr. Matheson's intimate Great Britain, and John C. Lane, former understanding of the relations of the mayor of Honolulu. Among the other American and Japanese people and the guests were many members of the news- issues which may arise. paper fraternity ; officials of the territo- Publicity That Counts. rial and county government ; army and W. R. Farrington spoke largely of navy officers, and men prominent in busi- the publicity which has been an effective ness affairs. factor in the winning of the war, just as No Yellow Peril in Hawaii. publicity in the future will shape the des- Following a short address of aloha tinies of a nation when the light of pub- to the departing "moulders of public opin- licity will be needed. It is publicity which ion," and after he had called for cheers Mr. Allen and Mr. Matheson will give , for Messrs. Matheson and Allen, the to affairs Oriental that will make their Governor called upon L. A. Thurston as missions useful. the first speaker. Mr. Thurston spoke of Y. Soga expressed the felicitations of the development of the Pan American the Japanese press to both editors. He idea here, dwelling upon the fact that said that he and other Japanese could there is a race problem here, one that speak feelingly on this subject as he had should be tackled and settled now, rather been given every assistance and courtesy. than to wait for a later and possibly less and helpful suggestions by Mr. Mathe- convenient time, but one which he said son and Mr. Allen. was capable of solution because of the Governor McCarthy presided, not only friendly relations existing among the dif- as Governor of Hawaii but as president ferent nationalities. As to the coming of the Pan-Pacific Union, and at the con- large Oriental voting population he saw clusion of the speech-making, called for no difficulty ahead, because the younger three cheers which were given with a generation were being brought up along will, followed by the singing of Auld American ideals, and furthermore they Lang Syne and Aloha Oe. 128

The Honolulu Ad Club and Pan Pacific Work

By W. R. FARRINGTON Wallace R. Farrington, Hon. Prest. Honolulu Ad Club A talk on Ad Club work in Honolulu, delivered at the Rotary Club session during Pan-Pacific Week.

ALLACE R. FARRINGTON, starter to make it go. This was illus- honorary president of Hono- trated in one of the first things that the W lulu Ad Club, was the next Ad Club undertook. speaker and said: "Take the stock flotation for the "The definition of the Honolulu Ad Mid-Pacific Carnival. A good many of Club is very difficult. One of the best the businessmen of the city thought statements regarding the position of the $5,000 could not be collected in that par- Ad Club in this community was given ticular year. The Ad Club took up the to me by a friend who told a story to proposition, started it off with the right illustrate his point. snap, with the result that over $30,000 "A number of men were in an obser- was secured for that great enterprise. vation balloon on the western front. One "The Ad Club was one of the first of them was to make a parachute jump. agents in this territory to get people to- He understood his job ; he knew that gether. everything was in order for the task he "We went to Hilo where in the town had to perform; he was not afraid ; he were two prominent business men who had no desire to quit—but when he got had always been credited with being in up on the edge of the basket ready to sharp competition. Without any especial make the jump he turned to one of his premeditative plans the Ad Club got the friends and said: 'For God's sake, push `get-together' spirit moving in the city me off.' That to my mind illustrates of Hilo, and that community in compara- the position of the Ad Club. It is an tively few months witnessed the exhi- organization that pushes the community bition of some of its business men who off in some of its activity when every- had been competitors for years march- thing is all set and ready but needs a ing down the street together, cooperating

129 130 THE MID-PACIFIC

Charles R. Frazier, President Honolulu Ad Percy M. Pond, Vice-President Honolulu Ad Club. Club. in a general good-natured jollification and who uttered it or the man who had been town promotion. cursed would die within six months. "The Ad Club in some respects is Running true to form the man who had like the Rotary Club because it is inter- uttered the curse went into one of our national. It has some by-laws but it local barber shops one day and dropped very seldom says anything about them. dead. The Ad Club man is still in Its rules and regulations are very elastic. action. One of its characteristics is to never "The Ad Club seeks to enlist every- read the minutes of the last meeting. It one who believes in himself and in his is always looking forward, and has not town and believes in everything that is time to devote to the past. Furthermore worth while. We believe in advertising the doors are wide open and it takes in ourselves. Moses was the first great ad- everybody with good intentions and the vertiser. No one would ever have known necessary $6.00 for membership and dues. anything about Moses had it not been "As far as I know there is only one for his having written the Ten Command- man who has ever been refused admit- ments on tablets of stone, and the ad- tance in the Honolulu Ad Club. Some vent of Christ was advertised by John man opposed his admission and he was the Baptist raising his voice in the Wil- decidedly angry. In order to get re- derness. We believe that anything that venge he set upon one man whom he is worth while should be given the ut- believed to be. responsible for his being most publicity. The Ad Club has tackled black-balled, and gave notice that he a good many projects but none of them placed a curse on this man. This curse more important than that which we now was of such a nature that either the man have in hand—the tenements. I would THE MID-PACIFIC 131 not discount the splendid work that has "The support of the health authorities been done in this community towards and the building inspectors and the men destroying the evil of the tenements. in this line of work became active and When we got started on this project useful instead df passive. We believe some of the excellent gentlemen of the that in order to get anywhere on almost city came to one of our sessions with any proposition you must advertise. the suggestion that what we needed was "The time will come when the Ad Club a commission to study the situation. We through its activity in arousing public decided that what was necessary was bet- opinion will have the tenements wiped ter information of the public, and we out. went ahead placing the facts before the "We must remember that very few people. The little 5-inch ads that we persons respond to a call at the first have run in this town have done sounding; very few are impressed with more than any ' other single effort to the statement at the first telling. It is solidify public opinion, and put it behind necessary that the statement should be such men as Dr. Pratt, President Pax- repeated. It has to be adverised—has son and Dr. Wayson of the Board of to be retold. It was only today that Health, Mr. Rath, and all these other I was reading an article from the chair- workers who have known of the situa- man of the Federal Trade Commission tion but hitherto lacked the active back- in which he urged upon the business men ing of public opinion. These little ad- of the United States to continue their vertisements have briefly outlined the advertising during this war period. essential facts and thus served to wake "The Ad Club is ready to tackle any- tip a lot of splendidly intentioned people thing worth while. It has been criticized who were thoroughly agreeable in so far in some sections for being undignified. as giving the authorities any support This charge doesn't worry the Ad Club. towards really doing away with the It is ready for anything that is worth tenements. while. It believes in advertising the "In some instances these served to Territory of Hawaii ; it believes in the awaken people who had money in tene- City of Honolulu and greater develop- ments, and who did not realize to what ment of the Pacific, and as an exponent an extent they were deriving an income of the `get-together' spirit it supports from degrading conditions. When they the unions of all peoples of the Pacific saw these facts plastered on the outer in whose behalf we are assembled here wall they bestirred themselves. today." 132 THE MID-PACIFIC 0 The Peopling of the Pacific

By J. McMILLAN BROWN Chancellor of the, University of New Zealand

OST people who live in this rivation certain Polynesian names have great ocean and watch its re- originated, and so mixed with the super- M peopling have at some time or natural are the legends and genealogies other puzzled over its original coloni- that this is a mere quicksand when used zation. Whence came the various racial as direct evidence of fact and but feeble strains and when and what induced them when used even as confirmatory evidence. to seek the unknown over its restless When I started this study I felt this waters? The usual answer has come from difficulty and yet because of the wide ac- looking at the map and seeing the islands ceptance of the theory, I reluctantly as- somewhat closer in its southwest corner. sented to it. I could find no evidence of What seemed to confirm this hypothesis it that was not as good evidence of a is the long-ago discovered fact that the migration from the Central Pacific west- languages right through from Easter wards. The likeness of the languages Island to Madagascar resemble each might just as well have arisen from a other in having little or no formal gram- people migrating from the Polynesia into mar, whilst a proportion of their. words, the Malay Archipelago as the other way. including as a rule the numerals, have And as many observers who well know a manifest, resemblance and look as if the Pacific had seen before me, the laws derived from one source. On this has of nature are opposed to the theory. been built an elaborate superstructure of Moerenhout, Lesson, and a dozen others interpretation of the Polynesian myth- saw what difficulties the whalers and ology, legends and genealogies, and still traders encountered in trying to make more of the geographical names, that eastward ; they had generally to go south professes to give body and form to the into the region of the westerly winds and hypothesis. But so elusive 'is the de- so get east ; and the Spanish galleons of rivation of names, of places and men, old in making back from the Philippines especially when we know from what de- to Mexico had always to beat far north

133 134 THE MID- PACIFIC first. It is quite true that there have been resented in Africa by the dark-skinned instances of canoes having been driven Somalis and Gallas. eastwards by the cyclonic winds of Janu- Now all round the Pacific the conti- ary and February, March of the south nents are occupied by Mongoloids, only hemisphere, and July, August and Sep- in the southwest do we find Negroids, in tember of the north. But these are the New Guinea and Milanesia, although minority of castaways. It is also true Negrottos are still found in the moun- that Polynesian voyagers by watching tains of the Philippines and in the Malay their seasons and winds managed to get Peninsula and in the Andamans, probably either northeast-or southeast. But these the relics of a more widely spread people. were the exceptions and the expeditions And in Polynesia or the eastern and of sailors re-customed for centuries if southern Pacific, we have a people that not thousands of years to these billowy has nothing Mongoloid in its features, and seas. only a trace of Negroidism in its nose and We must allow those old critics of the lips. Quatrefages, in the face of this, theory that the only wind for the de- ventured on deriving the Polynesians liberate, migrations of a people across from the Malays; a Caucasoid people oceans, especially migrations spread over from a Mongoloid, and one of the tallest long periods, is one that blows steadily peoples in the world from one of • the through a large part of the year ; and smallest. Your Hawaiian scholars, led that is the trade-wind in the Pacific, by Pernander, saw the absurdity of this, which blows from the east for three- but clinging to the accepted theory, drew fourths of the year. Even experienced them from India, the nearest Asiatic land sailors would never consent to lead ex- to the west that had a Caucasoid popu- peditions, especially in canoes which do lation. F'ernander was shrewd enough not tack easily and into the unknown, philologist to follow Bopp and see that right in the teeth of the wind that blows there was an Indo-European element in one way most of the year. Polynesia; but he conjectured that it A still stronger objection to the theory was extremely premature, pre-Vedic and arose when ethnology began to distin- before the inflectional grammar of Indo- guish races by their physical and other European had greatly developed. characteristics. It divides mankind into What he fails to see is that the pho- three fundamental races : the negroid nology of Polynesian (the true test of a markedly tufted or woolly hair, thick lips, language and its affinities) makes it quite flattened nose, hairless face, out-jutting unlike all those that it would have run jaws and calfless leg; the Mongoloid, the gauntlet of in sailing east the six or markedly lank, black hair, little face hair, seven thousand miles from the coast of broad cheekbones and narrow eyeslits India to the center of the Pacific. It with a fold over the tearduct, and the has only twelve to fourteen .sounds ; all Caucasoid, with hair tending to be wavy, those to the west have from twenty to much face hair, straight, thin nose, thin thirty, and in this respect it is the most lips, wide eyes and generally oval face. primitive language I know ; and it has a Though most of the Negroids have a long sound law which also makes it unlike all head and some stature, the Negrottos those to the west of it; it cannot close a differ from them in being round-headed syllable or a word with a consonant. and undersized ; but all of them are dark, This makes it the most liquid of all lan- often black-skinned: The Caucasoids, guages. most of them are light-skinned, are rep- Nor does he make any attempt to show THE MID-PACIFIC 135

why a great migration should have started of the American Indian come with it? off into the unknown in the teeth of the And still more, why were ' left behind prevailing wind or the process by which maize and tobacco and the potato, which it avoided being turned into Papuans or have become such favorites with the Melanesians in taking the long voyage Polynesians since the Europeans brought by stages as it must have done. them ?. Nay, why were the previous He saw that it took no trace of Bud- metal and pottery cultures of the pre-Inca dhism or Brahmanism with it, and so empires of the coast of Peru left behind? he made it pre-Vedic. But he fails to One of the marked features of Poly- face the problem of the cultivated plants. nesian culture is just the absence of pot- If it brought from India out of the Ma- tery. Never a sign of earthen ware has lay Archipelago bread fruit, banana, been found in any of the groups of Poly- sugar cane, taro, yam and sweet potato, nesia from Hawaii to New Zealand, from the most difficult plants to propagate over Tonga to Easter Island. Some have wide spaces of ocean, why did it leave quoted Tonga as having pottery ; but if rice behind, the staple food of India and they will look into Mariner's story of Malaysia, and the easiest of all to carry his experiences in that group when cast- long distances ? Why, if it brought the away in the early years of the nineteenth cocoanut out of India and the Malay century they will find that though Fiji Archipelago, did it fail to bring that main had extensive intercourse with Tonga use of the cocoanut in those regions, the then, its pottery had not yet been intro- making of the highly intoxicating toddy? duced. That is the extraordinary thing A race that had to resort to the masti- about Polynesia—that it was so isolated catory ferment in order to produce the in the midst of an ocean whose shores mild intoxication of awa would surely were full of pottery makers that it re- have appreciated the cleaner and stronger mained pottery-less. Nay, right up to its intoxicant the peoples of the coasts of In- portals that art had come; it flourished dia and of the Malay Archipelago got by in the New Hebrides and the Solomon cutting the flower stem of the cocoanut Islands, and all along the north and south- palm. west coasts of New Guinea, and had de- Mr. 0. F. Shaw of the Agricultural veloped into elaborate nests of well- Department at Washington has made a glazed water vessels in Fiji. In fact, it long study of this palm, and has come to must have been very old in Melanesia and the conclusion that it originated in South on the north coast of New Guinea; for America ; for in that continent are to be in some districts specimens have been found all its kin, whilst in Southeast Asia dug up quite unlike that made by, the is to be found not one of them. But re- existing inhabitants and unrecognizable cently there has been found on the Ter- by them. If the ancestors of the Poly-, tiary strata of New Zealand, a nut that nesians came that route why did they has been shown by botanists to be a real fail to bring so useful an art that was cocoanut; the palm evidently belonged spread all along it from the coast of In- to the flora of the Pacific Ocean. Nor dia to Fiji ? In many of the groups was its fruit ever made much of in South there is plenty of the clay needed if the or Central America ; whilst in Polynesia art had come. the palm was developed into the universal The only explanation I have been able provider of the region. Moreover, if the to find in all these years of research is cocoanut palm was brought from Ameri- that the households of the Polynesians ca, why did not the Mongoloid features left their continental homes before man 136 THE MID-PACIFIC had invented the art. In and around the knows a word in Hawaiian, he knows the Pacific Ocean at least the art is a house- form it will take in every other Polyne- hold one ; it is a woman's art. The Poly- sian dialect. This implies that these dif- nesian household must have been con- ferences began in a land that by its order stituted in the Pacific Ocean before the allowed the speakers of the dialects to art reached the coast of Asia—that is to meet frequently. In other words Hawa- say, before the Old Stone Age vanished, iki, the traditional fatherland, evidently with its rude chipped tools and weapons. submerged by the fact that the spirits of One of the surest marks of strata that be- the dead Polynesians have to plunge into long to that age is the absence of pot- the sea to get to the land of spirits, was, it tery. The beginning of the Polished is clear, imperially organized. Stone Age may go back as far as fifteen And away to the west and northwest to two thousand, to twenty thousand of the Polynesian groups, in Micronesia, years ago. In other words, women with there are still clearer evidences of archi- their families came into Polynesia as pelagic empires having gone down. In long ago as that. And after that the ex- Ponape or Ascension Islands, one of the peditions were purely masculine. For most easterly, there are the ruins of a you may be sure that if the men brought great city on the southeastern reef ; they their women folks with them after pot- cover eleven square miles ; that is to say tery was the fashion nothing could have the permanent public buildings, the im- prevented it taking root in Polynesian mensely larger stretch of temporary struc- households. tures for the common people having long Nay, the social organization reveals in ago vanished, and around them is a great its development and still more in its breakwater with only one entrance for traces of the far past an imperialistic ca- canoes. It is a huge Venice ; I canoed pacity and trend that must have come through its water streets for hours, and from the continent after the empires had covered only a part of it. And its rec- begun to form. I need not refer to the tangular or square is of basalt crystals, ambitions of Kamehameha and their ful- most of them a score of tons in weight fillment. They are evident in the history and filled up with coral debris. On every of every island of this group. Nor are one of these was erected an imposing, they confined to this group. Every group building with walls—twelve to fifteen feet in Polynesia developed towards kingship, thick. One of them, Nantauach, has its and especially the Society Islands and walls still thirty feet high, and in their Tonga. But these imperial tendencies prime they must have risen at least were only revivals of far past history. twenty feet higher.; for the courtyards The strange law of relationship in the are strewn with immense blocks tumbled change of consonants in Polynesia could by the cyclones, using as levers the great not have come into being at the vast dis- trees that the birds have planted on them. tances of ocean that now separated the This city must have needed tens of thou- groups. Dialects arise and change after sands of workmen to quarry, transport, the separation of a people. But they do and raise the great stones, and scores of not change in strict relation to each thousands to support them. And yet now other unless there is constant intercourse within a circle whose radius is 1,500 miles between the peoples that speak fhem ; in from this center there are not more than other words unless they are under a 50,000 people, and not insular areas highly organized government that secures enough to support more. peaceful intercommunication. When one So, on a little coral islet, about a thou- THE MID-PACIFIC 137

Fijiian warriors, these are of the negroid type and are not Polynesians. sand miles away to the northwest of this, Now these submerged empires are all I found a script still written by the chiefs in one direction on the route from Japan that is as far beyond the Chinese hiero- into Polynesia ; there is no trace of im- glyphs as these are beyond mere picture- perial organization or even of small king- writing. It is a syllabary of fifty or sixty ships on the route that is usually assumed characters, and is quite unlike the scripts to be that the Polynesians took, that is on of Asia or Europe. You will find a re- the 7,000 miles between Tonga and the production of it and an article on it by me coast of India, till we come to the Malay in one of the numbers of "Man," the Archipelago ; and there the empires are London anthropological journal, in 1914. historical ; the Hindoo empire of Java I there suggested that this could not have was established in our era and fell some been invented or developed, still less sur- five hundred years ago ; whilst the islands vived, unless there had been a highly of Ternate and Tidore took their begin- organized empire to need it as its ner- nings in Mahommedan times. And these vous system. empires drew their impulse of origina- On the east coast of Yap there again is tion from peoples of the temperate zone, a village called Gatsepar, to whose chief the Mongoloids of the north of India there comes every year over hundreds of and the Caucasoids of Arabia. For more miles of stormy ocean, canoes from than 5,000 miles of this route there is no islands away to the east with tribute ; and trace of empire or of any form of social yet he is a chief of no great power in Yap ; organization beyond the village. On the the canoers say that if they did not bring other route there are clear traces of wide the gifts he would harass them with insular empires having existed. storms and earthquakes. That is again a That same route is that by which the relic of an empire gone down. If these art of building in immense blocks of stone insular empires have gone down in Mi- came into the Pacific Ocean. It is only in cronesia it means that in human times Micronesia and Polynesia we find evi- there were more islands as stepping dences of this art. There the ruins I have stones and shelter on this northwest route. just described in Ponape, similar ruins in 138 THE MID-PACIFIC

Kusaie 40o miles to the east, the dolmen and Micronesia. By the same route came or trilithon of blocks 24 feet long the empire builders that gave the imperial above ground and the truncated pyramids tendency to the Polynesians. And it must of the royal priests in Tonga, the great never be forgotten that no masterful peo- Maraes or the temples of the Society and ple, no imperial race has ever come from Marquesas groups, the great stone statues the tropics. It is the hard breeding of the of the Austral group and Easter Island, north temperate zone winters that has and the great stone forts of Rapa and the alone produced the willpower and prac- platforms of Easler Island. This megal- tical organizing ability implied in empire ithic route joins up easily with the ancient building; for these make foresight and megalithic work of Japan, the so-called self-control on the individual and organi- imperial tombs, that of Korea, Manchuria, zation in the community imperative. We Mongolia and Southern Siberia, which may take for granted that the organizing joins on to that across the steppes of Rus- element that developed royalty and con- sia. The megalithic route that comes quest and government in the Polynesian through Syria, Persia, India, stops in groups came from the colder north, and Assam where, in the Khasi hills, the not from the hot tropical lands away to natives still erect great stones over the the west. And wherever you find great graves. There is no real great stone work stone monuments you may be quite sure in Java, or the Malay Archipelago, in Pa- there was power to organize men as work- pua or in Mela.nesia,a distance of between ers, whether free or slaves. These enor- five and six thousand miles. We may mous stones could not have been handled conclude then that a masculine migration in a period when there was no modern accustomed to the art of great stone build- machinery without vast amalgamations of ing came into Polynesia by way of Japan human muscle. The Pan-Pacific Racial Problem

By GEORGE BRONSON REA Publisher of Far Eastern Review.

The "Mid-Pacific Magazine" sets before its readers these figures and assertions made by Mr. Rea, and invites helpful and constructive criticism. The racial problem is one that the people of the Pacific will have to work out among them- selves, and a thorough understanding of the problem may bring about friendly co- operation towards a solution beneficial to all.

. APAN is a very small country. It The Oriental races double their numbers is already overpopulated and con- in from fifty to sixty years, despite the gested, and room must be found for ravages of hunger, plague and pestilence, Jher rapidly increasing people. Japan famine and flood, earthquake and typhoon proper, according to the highest authori- and warfare. ties,, has doubled its population in the last China already has a population esti- fifty years. It is now more than 55,000,- mated at over 400,000,000. The man- 000. In another fifty years it will be making mania of the people is developed i io,000,000. In twenty-five years—with- to the highest degree. The fecundity of in the lifetime of the present generation the race and ratio of increase is the same — Japan must find homes outside her as that of Japan, if not greater. jurisdiction for 27,500000—where? In The latest statistics of Korea show these few words is found the paramount what the real rate of increase would be issue that confronts Japan. if the strong hand of centralized author- The nations of Europe, excluding ity brought internal peace and happi- Russia, in addition to the people of the ness to the millions of Chinese. For the United States, require 90 to wo years Koreans under strong Japanese rule are in which to reproduce or double their doubling their numbers in 24 years, or numbers. In France, with her super- increasing eight times as rapidly as the civilization, the tendency is for the race white man of 'Europe. Already this ir- to die out. These are also basic facts. resistible expanding force is overthrow-

139 140 THE MID-PACIFIC ing the traditions and customs of time and their own civilization. As long as immemorial, and compelling the Chinese they have room within their own borders people to forsake their ancestral villages in which to expand, there will never be and seek new homes and the necessaries a Chinese problem. But if they are to of life in the undeveloped lands beyond be deprived of these outlying regions re- the Great Wall. The strip of agricultural maining under their own jurisdiction, and pastoral land bordering the Gobi. where they will be free to expand accord- Desert outside the Wall is being rapidly ing to their customs, and be compressed colonized and brought under cultivation. within the already congested confines of The rate of progression into the desert the Eighteen Provinces, a problem will be is over a mile a year along the entire created for the world to solve 'within our Mongolian border. Manchuria and Inner life time before which the Japanese ques- Mongolia offer the only sparsely settled tion will pale into insignificance. and fertile lands in Asia where the Chi- If we allow the same ratio of increase nese people can expand and remain un- to the Chinese as to their co-religionists der their own laws and follow their own in Japan, it will be seen that in fifty customs. years the population will ascend to 800,- The Arctic altitudes of Tibet are unin- 000,000. Added to the Japanese augmen- habitable. Mongolia proper is one vast tation of 140,000,000 this will make a dreary waste, and, at its best, in favored total of nearly a billion people. Where spots, is only suitable for the nomads is the land to be obtained for these who roam over the country. Chinese myriads? The earth will be -called upon Turkestan is being slowly dessicated and to provide for an increase of 47000:woo the rivers engulfed by the ever encroach- Chinese and Japanese alone. In the next ing sands of the desert. The only fer- twenty-five years—within our life time tile region susceptible of cultivation in —China will have to provide room for an the Ili district has been earmarked for increase of 200,000,000 in addition to exploitation and ultimate annexation by Japan's 35,000,000. The only available Russia, despite the fact that the valley is fertile lands open for colonization within already thickly settled by the industrious their own sphere are located in Inner Chinese farmers. It will be then seen Mongolia and Manchuria. Manchuria is that the Chinese cannot expand beyond 363,70o square miles in extent (North their own borders. and South Manchuria combined) and al- Over 2,000,000 colonists from Euro- ready supports a fixed population of 15,- pean Russia have been provided with 000,000 or an average of 21 to the square homes and lands along the boundaries mile. The most congested province of between Siberia and China. The fe- China is Shantung with 528 inhabitants cundity of the yellow man is only ap- to the square mile. If for the sake of proximated by the procreative powers of argument we allow that Manchuria is the Russians, who are also doubling their capable of similar congestion, it would numbers in fifty years, and in that time provide an outlet for another 177000,000 will have to• find room for another 150,- which is 58000,000 under the estimated 000,00o people. Russia's outlet is in increase, and, again for the sake of ar- Siberia and Asiatic countries. gument we may concede that these will The nations of the world have closed be absorbed by Inner Mongolia and the their doors to the unrestricted entrance other fertile and undeveloped corners of of the Chinese. The latter do not worry the country. In other words, the sus- about it, as they prefer their own country tained increase of population in China THE MID-PACIFIC 141 and Japan at its present ratio for the present population of the earth (r,750,- next twenty-five years, will theoretically 000,00o) will increase to io,000,000,000 absorb all the available fertile lands of in a period of a hundred and fifty years: China, and the pressure will begin to How does this compare with the facts ? exert itself along the entire Siberian The population of the world in 1800 was border. estimated at 640,000,000; in 1900 it had The Japanese are not pioneers. The risen to 1,543000000, or, roughly speak- spirit that animates the Anglo-Saxon to ing, the population doubled in eighty get out into the wilderness and combat years. If this normal rate of increase nature, savage foes and wild beasts, to is maintained during the next hundred reclaim the land to civilization, appears and fifty years the population of the to be lacking. They have Formosa which earth will be a little over 6,000,000,000, could provide homes for many more mil- or 4,000,000,000 less than the Japanese lions, but the savage head-hunters exer- estimate. This indicates plainly that cise a deterrent influence. The Japanese the Japanese scholars calculate that cer- also dislike extremes of climate. For- tain races will multiply much more mosa is too hot. Hokkaido and Sagha- rapidly than others, and leads to the lien are too cold. They must have a question as to what races may be ex- temperate clime in which to be happy. pected to expand two or three times more As Japan lacks the capital for pioneer rapidly than others. work, it follows that her people must As previously pointed out, the white enter territory which has already been races, adhering to Christianity and mo- opened and developed by others. nogamy, practicing a code of morals on So we must face actual Conditions. which their civilization is based, require Formosa is too hot. Saghalien and 90 years in which to double their num- Hokkaido too cold. Korea is too poor. bers, while the super-civilization of for any great colonization scheme. Man- France has actually tended to the gradual churia offers but a temporary solution. death of the people. The Mongolian Where then is Japan within the life time races adhering to a different philosophy, of the present generation to find homes in which ancestor worship, polygamy, for her excess millions? concubinage and another code of sex The Japan Sociological Society esti- ethics prevail; will double their numbers mates that the earth is capable of sus- in about 6o years. The Japanese in the taining comfortably about 2,300,000,000 last decade have surpassed their pre- according to the American standard of vious records for fecundity, and are now living ; and if they adopt the German doubling their numbers in 48 years. The standard as many as 5,600,000,000 can Dutch statistics show that the Javanese well live on the earth, but if they live are doubling their numbers in 52 years, according to the Japanese standard 22,- while the latest Korean government re- 400,000,000 could easily find sustenance ports disclose the phenomenal increase of on mother earth. * * * The present 17 per cent in four years, or a doubling population of the earth is estimated of the population in twenty-four years, at about 1,75o,00o,00o and, at the or eight times as rapidly as the white present rate of increase, in the next hun- races. The increase in India and China dred and fifty years it will have reached is kept down by floods, famines, plague, about 10,000,000,000. cholera, poverty, infanticide, congestion Let us now analyze the statement of and other causes. With modern sanita- this learned society. They say that the tion, hygiene, flood prevention, extension 142 THE MID-PACIFIC of railways and other reforms which normal fecundity, and then demand the make for the elimination of these obsta- further inalienable right of invading and cles to natural increase, it will not be long settling in other lands whose inhabitants before the lives of millions and millions have imposed artificial restrictions on now annually sacrificed will be saved. their powers of reproduction ? Where will these myriads find work and The issue is not one of racial equality. food? It is simply a great economic problem, For all practical purposes the state- the same identical problem which Japan ment may be made that the Mongolian faces when her sons come into competi- races of Asia are now multiplying twice tion with Korean, Formosan, Chinese or as rapidly as the white races. If con- other Asiatic labor, and, as Japan has ditions in Korea may be taken as a cri- been compelled to enact laws for the terion of the fecundity of the Asiatics protection of her own people, the white under favorable conditions, the future 'men have had to protect themselves looms dark for western civilization. The against the economic superiority of the Pan-Buddhistic races — Japanese, Kor- Japanese. If the Japanese would forsake eans, Chinese, Hindoos, Javanese, Sia- their old customs, traditions and ideals mese and Annamites—may be said to on sex matters and be willing to sever number at present about 800,000,000; their allegiance to the Mikado, when they under favorable conditions in fifty years, migrate to new lands, and become patri- they will increase to 1,600,000,000 ; in otic citizens of those countries which ex- one hundred years to 3,200,000,000 and tend them hospitality, the great racial in a hundred and fifty years to 6,400,- problem as far as they are concerned, 000,000. The white races now number- would disappear, and the glad hand of ing also about 8o0,0oo,000 will increase fellowship would readily be extended to to 1,600,000,000 in ninety years, or about them, for the manly qualities they un- 2,7oo,000,000 in one hundred and fifty .doubtedly possess. years. Analysis of the statement of the The full, logical expression of Oriental Japanese society therefore discloses the sex philosophy lies before the eyes of the truth that in one hundred and fifty years, people of Japan, and can be read in the they expect the Buddhist nations to out- last annual report of the Governor Gen- number the whites or Christians two and eral of Korea. There we have the ful% a half to one. effect on the population of early marriage, But they assure us that the earth can polygamy, concubinage, and without the only support 2,400,000,000 people living plagues and pestilence, floods and famines according to American standards. In fifty and other visitations of a merciful Nature years there will be i,600,000,000 Asiatics which in the past have placed a check on and f,o5o,000,000 whites. In twenty- the increase. Seventeen per cent in four five years the earth must find room for years is the tale, which means a doubling 400,000,000 more Asiatics. Japan will of the population in 24 years, or eight require room for at least 30,000,000. Asia times as rapidly as the white races of is already overflowing. Russia is doub- Europe. If China were governed as India ling her numbers in fifty years, and in or Korea, the gravity of the problem that time they must have room for an- would soon become intensified and unsolv- other 15o,000,000, and they are holding able, except by the wholesale emigration the best part of Asia as their preserves. which neighboring continents forbid. Has the East the right to adhere to Again we ask, what is the solution of customs and practices which promote ab- the problem ? Let the Japanese govern- THE MID-PACIFIC 143 meat appropriate some of the millions lions. The rigor of the climate there is now being poured into reclaiming the no worse than the winters of Canada or lands of Korea, in the same manner and the American northwest, to say nothing with the same spirit that the American of Alaska, which has been developed by authorities are bringing under cultivation the hardy Anglo-Saxons in search of the deserts of the western states. A few homes. A modification of the laws which millions expended in serious development will permit Japanese emigrants to other and colonization work in the Hokkaido, countries to renounce their' allegiance to Formosa and Korea, would provide the Emperor, and become citizens or sub- homes for another 50,000,000 Japanese. jects of other states, is needed if they are Hokkaido alone will support many mil- to be welcomed as settlers in other lands.

A Japanese family of the peasant class. 144 THE MID-PACIFIC

A street scene in a Chinese metropolis.

A Japanese village and Fujii Yama, the sacred mountain. Waterfalls in Halawa valley on the island of Molokai.

The Other Side of Molokai (Something about one of the loveliest of the Hawaiian Islands.)

By E. S. GOODHUE, M. D.

FEW months ago I looked over Away down through the Auau chan- the sea from the veranda of a nel, a vista limned by Maui and Lanai, is A Kalaupapa home; on the wind- Kahoolawe, over thirty-seven miles off, ward side of Molokai. alone, forestless, cloudless and, there- fore, dry. Tonight, seventeen miles southeast, It is said, however, that years ago across the bluest of seas, sunset tints when there were trees on Moaula, rains play upon the fair head of Maui, whose were frequent, but as the mountain is hair almost I could caress with my only 1,445 feet high there never could hand, so near and wavy soft it seems. have been much moisture. A little west of south lies Lanai, per- Puumanu on Lanai, of course, is haps twenty-five miles distant, as clearly higher, reaching upward 3,000 feet more, outlined as Maui, but with fewer clouds though not eminent enough to deserve hovering about it. The island is unten- the full consideration accorded peaks on anted except by Messrs. Monroe and Gay, Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, Kauai, or even and some native dependents. The Molokai. steamer touches its port, Manele, once Here the backbone of the island, Ka- weekly, landing passengers, mail and rnakou, with its creased and wooded can- freight. yons, at the entrance of one of which our

149 150 THE MID-PACIFIC house stsands, reaches up some 4,958 There are several stone ruins in view feet. of the road, some of them, I am told, Often, even on the leeward side, mists over 8o years old. of clouds drive down and fall upon us, Let us endow them with fancy as the leaving silver threads of water to please mountains are wrapped in clouds, and the eye for hours and days afterwards. believe that they have seen, if not tragedy Since the organization (and failure) of at least, the romance of an earlier, sim- the American Sugar Company, Kauna- pler life than we know. kakai, its chief port, has become well The Guest Book is filled with the known ; a few houses, much sand and • names of Hawaii's best known people, dust, heat, salt marshes, a long wharf among them that of the late Queen Lili- carrying a mule car, and little else. uokalani. Truly, the place is not prepossessing, but In a rather rocky section of Pukoolau with an automobile one soon gets away is the burial place of a nephew of Pres- from it into pleasanter scenic and cli- ident Tyler. He lived and died in a matic environment. house now standing just makai of the Either way, up towards Kualapu to the grave. ranch houses, to Kauluwai, Mr. George There is neither artistry nor romance P. Cooke's summer home, to Kalae on about the place. Little is told of the the rim of the famous Molokai Pali, or, young "heir of all the ages" who wan- in an opposite direction through windy dered away to the Sandwich Islands, Kamalo, Pukoo, Waialua, Moanui, Hono- foregoing "the crescent promise of his uliwai, Honoulimaloo to Halawa, the end youth." For all we know he may have of the road, and you will find one of the been a beach-comber, disappointed in life most beautiful places on the island, or or love or both, or in search of adventure, any island. and finally captured by some fair Hawai- I am not fond of comparing places ian maid as better and worse than he which cannot be compared any more had been before and since. than two cases of specific illness may ; One of the famous heiaus of Hawaii, but I will say that some one has called Iliiliiopae, is here, a little back of us in Halawa "The Yosemite of Molokai." Mapulehu valley or canyon. Along then, from Kaunakakai with a Formerly it comprised a large, solid road as good as roads wind in old Kona, mass of stones with sacrificial altars, and your automobile runs through a dense stretched nearly across the valley but, forest of algaroba part of the way, dis- according to tradition, was broken and closing no end of economic fuel possibil- partly washed down by a cloudburst ities, by pleasant cottages and groves of which destroyed the village of Pukoo and cocoanut palms, innumerable fish ponds, all its inhabitants. most of the time in view of the glorious In Mr. Thos. G. Thrum's interesting sea and its islands. "Folk Tales," under a "Legend of Molo- kai," by A. 0. Forbes, I find : Not only Maui—a silhouette of Hale- Finally one day, the promised sign ap- akala shadowed behind it — Lanai, Ka- peared. The snow-white speck of cloud, no hoolawe, but also Hawaii can be seen on bigger than a man's hand, arose over the mountains of Lanai, and made its way a clear day, and from Mr. Cooke's place across the stormy channel in the face of the Oahu comes into view. opposing gale, increasing as it came, until Mr. Hitchcock's fine old homestead is it settled in a majestic• mass on the moun- tains at the head of Mapulehu Valley. near the church built in 1848 by his Then appeared a splendid rainbow, proud- grandfather, "Father" Hitchcock. ly overarching the valley, its ends resting on THE Mlll - PACIFIC 151 the high lands on either side. The wind the cliffs on both sides were natives began to blow; the rain began tp pour, and shortly a furious storm came down the shouting down their orders to the divers doomed valley, filling its bed from side to and others who handled the nets. Then side with a mad, rushing torrent which, sweeping everything before it, spread out the final shout when the fish were safely upon the belt of lowlands at the mouth of enclosed,—four tons of squirming bodies. the valley, overwhelming Kupa and all his people in one common ruin, and washing What exclamations, jestures, and re- them all into the sea, where they were de- joicing, and what an apportionment of voured by sharks. Wherefore the harbor of akule! Pukoo where this terrible event occurred was long known as Ai Kanaka (man eater), What exclamations, gestures, and re- and it has passed into a proverb among the of women, or political campaigning for inhabitants of that region that when the rainbow spans Mapulehu valley, then look equal suffrage, when women and maidens out for the "Waiakoloa"—a furious storm go out with their men to reap this diffi- of rain and wind which sometimes comes cult harvest of the sea, and to come in suddenly down that valley. bearing their share of the profits ? One may well believe that this legend There was no timidity or shamefaced- is founded upon historical fact, for in ness about them. With little more than other places along the road are gullies nature's provision against the elements, or washouts, the result of rains high up these modest women, beauteously brown which, rushing down in torrents, carried of skin, with graceful neck, arms and the soil and boulders With them. bosoms, became unconscious of their sex, In one place we pass a field of rice and were one with the sea, the sky and softly undulating in the trade. Here at the men of their kind. Kawela, it seems, King Alapai of Hawaii Truly a sight to see, and worth an met his enemy King Kapiiohokalani of Hawaiian epic ! Oahu, who, although he had the prepon- Nearby is a U. S. postoffice where mail derant name, was vanquished by his comes and goes twice weekly. enemy from the bigger island. This was At Kaunakakai is a wireless station, away back in 1737, when there was con- and in all houses is free telephone service, siderable fighting going on in these peace- so we are more in touch with the world ful islands. than Honolulu was when we came to it Last Saturday we came through the in 1895. pretty little village of Waialua with its If we are hard pressed for contact, we sward of manienie that reminds me of may hire a Japanese sampan, as I did the Koloa Beach on Kauai, to Honoulimaloo other day, and travel very comfortably to —a very eye-taking inlet—and there Lahaina, or even to Honolulu, and found some thirty-five fishermen and though seasick on the "Likelike," I did women drawing in their nets. not suffer that way on the sampan, which Several automobiles and innumerable chuck-chuck-chucked through the water, pedestrians were gathered along the shore captain, mate and crew meanwhile hauling road. in fish from starboard, apparently paying We had seen the school of akules come no attention to the boat, which finally in, a dark mass of quivering blue, draw- came to port. ing nearer and nearer to their doom. On Written at Pukoo, Molokai. 152 THE MID-PACIFIC

Scenes in Sydney, a busy section above and below the wonderful domain or public park that elides into the Botanical garden, the recreation ground of this city of a million. Looking out over the Domain and the Botanical garden of Sydney. Looking out over the "Doinoin- Sydney.

Sydney's Botanical Garden

By JAY HAYES

HERE are wonderful botanical tree." These plants are to be met with gardens in each of the Australian everywhere, not only in the suburbs of T great cities, Melbourne, Adelaide Sydney, but far away from the coast in and Sydney ; the Melbourne Garden is the warmer situations. They illumine known the world over for its wonderful the landscape, and make Victorians re- landscapes and brilliant coloring, but gret that their climate is too cold for Sydney has plants and shrubs that are the cultivation of such handsome sub- nearer tropical and often astonish even jects. the man from Melbourne. The new botanical name of the "fire- Visitors from Melbourne to New bush" is Euphorbia pulcherrima; but the South Wales during the winter season plant, is better known in Melbourne are struck with the brilliancy of two where it is not infrequently seen in glass- beautiful small-growing trees—the Mexi- houses—as Poinsettia pulcherrima. To can "fire-bush" and the Indian "coral- see this plant at its best one should see

153 154 • THE MID-PACIFIC a specimen of, say, eight feet in height, E. indica ; it is a native of the West bearing several scores of magnificent Indies. vermilion-colored bracts, commonly At the time of our visit Sydney was known as flowers, but they are simply suffering from a long .spell of dry modified or colored leaves ; the real weather. Even the beautifully situated flower is in the center of these bracts. Botanic Gardens showed signs of the The Sydney people say that this plant is lack of rain. The spacious lawns of particularly fine this season. For pro- couch and buffalo grasses, trampled upon ducing a most gorgeous picture is is the each day of the week by innumerable finest thing we know of, excepting per- feet, were getting bare and brown, giving haps the Ponciana regia, which we have evidence of want of rest and moisture, seen in some of the South Sea Islands. playsand, perhaps, of fertilizing. More The Poinsettia is easily propagated by attention has been given of late to floral cuttings planted after the flowering sea- displays, and since our previous visit son; it likes a light, rich soil, and the many new beds have been formed on the more sheltered the position the better it lawns, and presently there will be some thrives. There is a double kind, and also good displays of spring and other plants a yellowish-white variety of.this glorious in bloom. Violas, stocks, wallflowers, plant; but they are only worthy the at- carnations, daisies, delphiniums, mari- tention of the botanist. golds, pansies, bouvardias, primula mala- The erythrinas or coral-trees are well coides, cinerarias, freesias, ranunculi, dianthus, . and antirrhinums, with other known, handsome deciduous shrubs or hardy plants, will soon be attractive to the small trees, to be found in many Victor- numerous visitors who frequent- these ian gardens, blooming during the sum- gardens. The Melbourne, Adelaide, Bris- mer and autumn seasons ; but winter bane and Hobart botanic gardens, as well blooming coral-trees, which are numer- as those of Sydney, are gradually becom- ous in all the Sydney suburbs as well as ing pleasure resorts, rather than places inland, come from India, and are too of a scientific or botanical character, and tender for a climate such as that of Mel- this is, we suppose, as it should be. bourne. E. indica is in full bloom now Class-grounds' in the Sydney Botanic (the month of July), and the trees—des- Gardens have not been dispensed with, titute of foliage—are laden with their for here we find interesting groups of showy scarlet flowers. When these drop native grasses, exotic grasses, fodder the leaves will shortly appear, and the plants and other useful economic plants, tree is not to be despised as a shade- all legibly named, and which should be giving one. It is sometimes planted as most instructive to the student. A Jap- an avenue, also as a breakwind ; but it anese garden has been formed, certainly does not appear to be particularly effec- on a small scale, but space is very valu- tive for either purpose. If the old wood able. Here we find a choice collection is made into cuttings, and planted out of acers, conifers, irises, bamboos and thickly, as willows or osiers are, the cut- other natives of Japan. The collection tings root, and a hedge or shelter-belt is of bamboos in these gardens is extensive, quickly formed. E. indica is a native of and is said to be the largest in the Com- the East Indies. E. speciosa is of similar monwealth. habit of growth, but it does not bloom The area devoted to Australian plants until about September, when it produces is of considerable size, and many species handsome blossoms similar to those of are found in it which are rare. The THE MID-PACIFIC 155

A. bit of Sydney's public Domain, beloved by al/.

"wax-flower of Geraldton" (Chamaelau- Plumbago rosea is another novelty of cium uncinatum) luxuriates here ; one merit. Moschosma riparia is an ex- specimen is some eight feet in height ; tremely floriferous plant of considerable another is less tall, but is scrambling attractiveness. Dolichandrone cauda- away amongst other plants, apparently felina, a native of China, belongs to the enjoying itself when surrounded with bignoniaceae family, and has pretty, pale- foliage of adjacent shrubs. In Victoria yellow flowers. Bignonia venusta comes this plant has been found a little diffi- from Brazil ; this beautiful orange-color- cult to propagate, but the propagator in ed species thrives fairly well about Mel- the Sydney Botanic Gardens experiences bourne, but it does better in the warmer no difficulty in increasing it by putting climate of Sydney, where it blooms pro- in the cuttings at midsummer. A very fusely through the winter months. Grow- striking plant is the Eucalyptus macro- ing in many a suburban garden around carpa, from Western Australia. Its Sydney is the elegant Mina lobata, with foliage is as white as any plant we know, its orange and red flowers ; it is classed and it is worthy of a place in any shrub- as an annual, but may be treated as bi- bery that is a little protected from frost ennial in its habit ; it should be more and cold winds ; apart from its unique frequently seen in Melbourne gardens. foliage, the plant blooms while still in A malvaceous plant named Cassia a small state. The collections of hakeas, artemisoides, having pretty yellow flow- grevilleas, acacias and other native plants ers, a native of New South Wales, is are large, and the majority of them are found a useful shrubbery plant. The legibily named. well-known Othonna anasthasiaea, with There are numerous beautiful speci- its large, handsome, yellow stars, is be- mens of ficuses and other trees and ing used with success as a bedding plant. shrubs to be seen in these picturesquely Another good thing, not sufficiently ap- situated gardens, but there remain a few preciated about Melbourne, is the Nie- yet worthy of notice. Ruellia macrantha rembergia frutescens, a native of South is a beautiful, newly introduced shrub America. Dombeya Wallichii is the from Brazil, having showy rose-colored name of a handsome-foliaged shrub flowers ; should it prove hardy it will from Madagascar, having flowers of a be a valuable addition to our shrubberies. dull crimson color. The true "cham- 156 THE MID-PACIFIC

paca" of the Hindoos (Michelia cham- somest flowers, and their foliage is also paca) is doing fairly well in these gar- distinct and good. These gorgeous- dens. In India it is commonly culti- blooming plants do fairly well in the vated for the powerful fragrance of its Melbourne Botanic Gardens, but our cli- flowers, which is so strong that bees sel- mate is a trifle too cold for them. An- dom, if ever, alight on them. The tree other serviceable South African plant is is sacred to Vishnu, and is therefore an the clivia, or imantophyllum ; it is quite object of superstitious regard on the common about Sydney, and it appears to part of the Hindoos, who adorn their enjoy somewhat rough treatment; its dark hair with the rich orange-colored flowers of orange and red are very last- flowers. ing. Ravenala Madagascarensis is the long The glass-houses we found well botanic name of the "travelers' tree" of stacked with a large variety of healthy Madagascar. It derives its popular name stuff, the orchid houses being particularly from the fact that the sheaths, i. e., the well filled. One house was full of Glorie broad bases of the leaves, collect and for de Lorraine begonias, and they presented a long period retain water derived from a lovely sight ; there were 35o plants in the rain, and which may be obtained by splendid bloom, all raised from cuttings o traveler by making an incision, when planted less than a year ago. the stored water will trickle through. The Botanic Gardens, being so near the The broad leaves of the plant are used heart of the city of Sydney, are well pat- for thatching; the seeds also may be ronized. In fine weather on a holiday eaten, and an essential oil may be ob- thousands of well-dressed people may be tained from the soft covering in which seen enjoying the numerous beautiful they are enveloped. views to be had from various points of The glorious strelitzias, of South vantage, while a goodly number may be Africa, seem to be nearly always in seen reading the names of the immense bloom. S. nicolai is one of our handsom- number of trees and shrubs which have est foliaged plants, but S. regine, S. an- been gathered from nearly all parts of gustifolia, and S. juncea have the hand- the globe. The rest house on the way to Haight's place.

A Little Trip to "Haight's Place"

By A. DALE RILEY.

i ARLY one May morning three of American regime, ,and although Gov- us who had come up to the ernor-General Forbes was already writ- F Teachers' Camp at Baguio to ing an "ex" before his name and the spend the "long vacation" in company Topside house was deserted, still the ex- with the hundreds of other Americans odus of Americans had not yet gotten (already there for the hot season), into full swing, and the trails over which aroused the cooks at the mess hall we traveled were practically as "good as at an unusual hour, ate a hasty break- new." fast by lamp-light, and started out on After hiking for about an hour we the long hike to "Haight's Place." We turned and took a last look at Baguio had all heard of it as a location rather and Mirador, before passing behind a vague, and the trip to it as an experience little hog-back that cut off our view. infinitely desirable ; so in the first flush Here the trail became steeper, and we of the morning hours we found ourselves wound ever upward until we came out leaving the Gibraltar road that leads out onto the top of a divide, with the green of Baguio .and turning into the Topside mountains on every side, bordering trail. broad, level lowland plains, on which That was in the days before the mo- squatted little Igorot villages. Several mentum had been lost from the first trails wound off down the mountains, so

157 158 THE MID-PACIFIC

far below that they seemed like ribbons blue immensity of distance. Sometimes binding down the fair prospect—the the entire scene shifted as dark clouds three of us chose three different ribbons. partially obscured the sun or swallowed The debate ended by each of us deciding the farthest cones, and, drifting from to hike a kilometer on the trails we had either side, sank into the main valley. chosen and to then return and report. The sun was casting long shadows be- Where a kilometer post appeared would fore we arrived at the rest house at K. be the main trail. 3o., where we were given bowls of hot We all returned in about half an hour tea, and told where we could find a bed. —triumphant—each one had come to a The rest house is a log cabin with the kilometer sign-post. After we had re- main room in the central part in front covered ourselves sufficiently to speak, of the huge fire-place (it gets "chilly" up we learned that the Cervantes sign post here in the mountains), and two small was nearby, and knowing that was not rooms on either side. As I lay back on the one to follow, we trailed off in the the bed making myself comfortable un- opposite direction. der the heavy woolen blanket, and stretching out my toes, a huge spider, (kilometer post No. zo) we At K. 20 who had evidently skurried away at my bathed in a cold little spring and ate our appearance, came back to continue the luncheon, consisting of sandwiches and work on his web near the many-paned mangoes. Afterward we had sufficient window. I watched him as he wove, cause to regret the mangoes, and decided passing back and forth—back and forth, that wew would never again indulge in back and forth, back and forth- mangoes while on a hike, for they con- * tinually reminded us of their existence. The second day's trip took us from As the trail led north we came to pine-clad Appalachian memories to the highly colored rocks, deep ravines and colored cliffs and deep gorges of Rocky wooded valleys. Skirting ridges, passing Mountain scenery. Several times the through cuts and crossing little plank trail narrowed and crawled along the bridges, we soon emerged out of the val- curving sides of sheer cliffs that dropped leys onto the ridge of another divide perpendicularly into gorges hundreds of near the twenty-third kilometer of our feet below. At one place we counted ten journey. To our left, and toward the before a small stone that we had dropped east lay one of the most beautiful land- struck the rocks in a valley far below us ; scapes I had ever seen. In the center lay at another one of the party sent a huge the deepest valley bedded by the white boulder crashing down the rocky side of stones left by the rainy season streams. a cliff, and timed fully a minute by his Other valleys opened into this one, form- watch before its thundering reverbera- ing miniature plains dotted by the brown tions died away into silence. thatch of, native roofs. Herds of horses At K. 45 we came out on the top of and cattle browsed like flies upon the the highest point of the divide we had green hillsides, covered with grass, yet reached, and the whole mountain shrubs and mighty trees. Here and province seemed to be stretching out be- there one caught a glimpse of color as fore us. We climbed to the summit of a some Igorot carrier crawled along one peak. Around us, on every side we of the brown or yellow trail ribbons, a could see the land stretching .upward to tiny speck in the wonderful scene. Hill the sky, like the edges of a bowl filled mingled with hill, peak rose beyond peak, with moss and covered by a delicately- mountain melted into mountain in the tinted blue and white cup, partly ob- THE MID-PACIFIC 159 scured by clinging foam, the clouds. In sistance as soon as he could talk to her, many respects like the other views we and when the children began to come, he had had of the surrounding country, it was married to her by the Bishop of the was greater, grander, more awe-inspir- Episcopal church. ing as it lay silent under the cloud shades By the time Baguio was made the and the sunlight. As we lay there summer capital of the Philippines, dreaming, thrilled by the magnificence of Haight had built his home, and hiking the scene, a sharp bird note sounded, parties who ventured out that far re- clear and piercing, far down among the ported a hospitality that induced others trees. Then silence resumed her rarely to follow. Soon "Haight's Place" be- disputed reign. came a goal for all who wished to go The last four kilometers on the private farther into the mountains, and his ex- trail to Haight's place were the hardest cellent meals of fresh vegetables, home- of all the trip, and we were rejoiced at cured meats, fruit and wild-honey got to The sight of his pine board house as we be known so well in Baguio .that he had emerged from a dense oak forest. to enlarge his house, and put ty a num- We went in and asked Haight's Igorot ber of four-room sleeping houses to ac- wife for luncheon, which she prepared commodate his guests. He purchased for us in a short time. The woman and cattle, sheep and goats, so that those the girl who helped her were dressed in who had been living from cans down in the regular Igorot costume, consisting the heat of the tropical lowlands might of a short waist, and a broad piece of have the luxury of fresh meat as well gaudily-colored cloth, wrapped several as vegetables, when appetites had been made keen by the invigorating mountain times around the loins and tucked in at air. the waist, but they talk English nearly That first evening we spent around the all the time, cook on an up-to-date range big log fire that has burned continuous- and follow American customs generally. ly for eleven years. We' all helped our- The rough board house that reminds one selves to the home-cured tobacco until I of some old-fashioned farm-house back retired to a bed that was truly "like a in the mountains of Virginia or Ken- little boat." It takes several days to get tucky, with its unfinished walls, large used to that tobacco. open fire-place, and plain board floor, is Early the next morning I went up to kept swept and scrubbed scrupulously the lookout on top of Mount Poway. clean. Clouds hid many parts of the mountain, Haight, himself is a typical, tall, lank and others in the western half of the farmer of the mountains, who was green, corrugated bowl were in shadow, warned a number of years ago that he but I could see old Santo Tomas looming would very likely die of tuberculosis in up out of the southwest, although Ba- a very few months. He had come over guio itself still lay buried under the • with the volunteers, and like so many morning clouds twenty miles away. others he had "jest stayed." When he How does one spend one's time at came up to Baguio, in his own words, Haight's ? Getting out and hiking he "jest kept a-goin' " until he arrived around in the invigorating atmosphere, at what seemed to him to be about the loafing around the old saw mill, or try- highest point in the mountains, and then ing to swim in the mill pond as a con- settled down. The woman, whom he trast to the tropical heat of lowland had purchased in marriage, according to streams. I say "trying" advisedly ; I the native custom, proved of great as- tried it. 160 THE MID-PACIFIC

"Come and get it," calls Haight, and some out-of-the-way place where it has you are whirled back to the days of been a choice between chicken, fish and Johnny cake and rhubarb pies for break- rice, or the stuff that is loaded in cans, fast. No tablecloth, tin platters, but you and you have become listless, and rather eat as you never can in the lowlands, for sick of it all, you can imagine what it everything is good, everything is clean, means to get to the summer capital,. with and, as one of our party expressed it, its gayety and associations, and its cool "everything is piled up and running weather, and you can also imagine what over." it means to get out to Haight's. You One cannot go to Haight's without re- return to Baguio in one day instead of membering Clark. Clark was once a two, forgetting for the time the glorious bartender, and many times a cook, but scenery enroute. It has been crowded the corks would not stay in the bottles, out by the thoughts of those active hours so he went to Haight's Place to get away, around the farm, those calls to dinner and has been there ever since. He is and the joy of the rattling plates, those' responsible for much of the excellent long evenings around the fire when Clark cooking, and he is the grand master of kept passing the tobacco to give you a the short-cake. fill, while Haight stretched his legs be- If you have lived in a heated land for fore the fire and sent out huge pipefuls nine months of the year, possibly in of his genial philosophy.

The barn at Haight's piece. "Shanghaied" and Some Impressions Gained

By J. W. ALLEN Of the Paramount Film Corporation.

HANGHAI is called the "Paris" of the foreign governments in order for the Orient—and rightly so. It is them to establish their trading posts and S a splendid city filled with great in- consuls. The Shanghai concession is much larger, however, and has a total terest, for 'here we see European and population of six hundred and forty thou- American methods being adopted by the sand, of which about ten thousand are Chinese—slowly, 'tis true, but neverthe- white foreigners, the remainder being less surely. Chinese. The buildings in which the There are two separate cities in majority of the stores and business Shanghai— the new and the old. The houses are located are a curious mixture old, or Chinese city is a walled commu- of European and Chinese methods of nity containing nearly one million Chin- building—and though virtually of the ap- ese and here we find conditions very pearance of the former on the exterior, similar to Canton, except that the Can- they nevertheless in many instances dif- tonese Chinamen are more progressive fer very radically from our methods of and much more intellectual than the interior decoration and appointment. Pekinese or Northern Chinese—so con- The concession city is governed by the sequently there is a greater measure of consuls of the various nations who meet advance in manufacturing and in build- periodically and formulate the laws by ing in the south. The little, narrow which the city is ruled—the body being streets, the countless little store-dwel- called the "Municipal Council." There lings and the immense congestion of are about three thousand Americans and the population are very much the same. three thousand British here, but the laws The new or concession city is far dif- are considerably British as yet, though ferent, as it has been built under the the American influence is being felt in plans and directions of white men. The Shanghai more and more as time goes concession city in Canton was given to on and the American businessman is

161 162 THE MID-PACIFIC daily becoming more influential in every may place their dependence. There are way. Here we find the Hindoo Sikh po- two distinct bodies to the government licemen on guard and as private watch- as it has existed in the past few years— men for business houses and residences, that of the civil and the military. The greatly feared here by the lawless ele- civil government has attempted to rule ment of the Chinese. through its appointed and elected chiefs The old city is governed by the Chin- in the provinces or states and in the ese, and the white man exerts no influ- larger communities, but their rule has not ence here—beyond a few self-sacrificing been by force of arms and their power missionaries there are no white people has been indeed limited. As the natives living there. realized that the scope of government The poor Chinese have no government jurisdiction was small, so have they cor- to "write home about," or to speak of respondingly had a. small measure of re- with much accuracy or directness. For spect for and awe of it. The other has centuries the Chinese have had no gov- been the most powerful—that is, the ernment that the masses were cognizant military. The army is composed of the of, speaking in the broad sense of the most illiterate and uneducated of Chinese true meaning of Government and Juris- who are officered by men in many in- diction of Government. For countless stances of little more intelligence than generations they have governed them- the rank and file of the soldiery. Back selves through local bodies of business of all this there exists the wise generals men or private citizens, forming little who control the finances of the state to a protective bodies, by which they have ex- great extent—and as long as the general erted a semi-control over themselves. is skilful and successful in his operations Their disposition is to be a peaceful na- and as long as the soldiers are fed and tion and race—that is all that has saved clothed, there is no trouble among the them from the terrors of continual in- privates ; but woe to the chief who fails ternal revolution and self-elimination. to so provide, for he is destined to elim- Their Boards of Trade and guilds are ination as soon as they can select more remarkable examples of the strength of capable generals. The army chiefs have trade bodies banded together for the pur- openly raised money through many ques- tionable methods, and the civil govern- suit of a commonly beneficial purpose— ment is powerless to prevent their oper- their scope of influence and control be- ing stupendous when all of their pow- ations, so it has been a government of ers are called into play. Not long since eternal conflict, but of very little blood- when Japan made her celebrated twenty- shed, for the Chinaman is no fighter and one demands on China, the merchants he detests the thought of bloodshed, as a nation. Back of all this turmoil, how- boycotted all forms of Japanese goods ever, there remains one great truth—that and for the time being, until the contro- versy was settled, virtually nothing was of the power of the Chinese to govern themselves and to direct their efforts as introduced into China from Nippon's best they may for the common good. land. A Chinaman has no secrets in his busi- In the interior, it is very much the same so far as government by local bod- ness, and he quarrels openly on the ies is concerned, and I really am under streets, if the quarrel happens to orig- the impression that the majority of the inate there. He is not so secretive as the Chinese do not consider that they have a white man, and at his meetings with his centralized government upon which they fellows he compares notes and tells how THE MID-PACIFIC 163 much money he has made in the period ness man takes a guide one hundred under discussion and all about how it miles from the city into the country, the has been made. It is said that a Chinese chances are that the interpreter will be need never starve or go unclothed in rig- as helpless as the business man ! In orous weather if those about him are for- these instances given you can see the tunate in having the world's goods, and great handicap under which China la- his charity towards his fellows is the bors. A thing of great interest in Shang- product of these centuries of self-gov- hai was a huge electric spelling sign ernment. erected on the roof of a flatiron building In spite of the changeable government on a main business street by an enter- and of the present unrest, the fact still prising tobacco company of America— remains that the Chinese are the greatest it spells out its message in ancient Chin- Democrats and the most comprehensive ese characters by the most modern meth- self-governors in the world. Potentially, ods of electric sign trickery, and one China is a vast republic and when the cannot help but think of the far cry from awakening eventually comes in the some- the origination of the spelling to its time, and China gets her bearings in mat- puzzling method of execution in the ters of government, the influence of this modern way. dormant democracy will astound the The Chinaman is a prime believer in world with the rapidity with which it personal comfort first of all. If the day will grasp the significance of a govern- is hot, he carries a fan with him wher- ment for, of, and by the people—as Lin- ever he goes, and if the sun is too hot coln defined democracy. he carries his umbrella. He dines as China's chief impediment—and it al- well as his means will allow, and he i, ways has been her chief drawback—is content with little else besides. He is a her language. The language is written brainy man and his powers of mentality in, roughly speaking, three thousand are surprising if he really makes an ef- characters. Each of these characters is fort to accomplish something. His chief a picture that signifies some object and it trouble is that he is a fatalist and his is as surely a form of picture writing religious superstitions are a bane to his as that of the ancient Egyptians. It is ambitions. Whatever his gods will, so almost an impossibility for a man to it is to be, to the Chinaman's mind, and .memorize all of these characters in a life- his wants being few he is content to re- time, and so they use as few as is possi- side in a limited sphere. As a whole, he ble. I have heard of newspapers oper- is a poor man indeed, but rich in philoso- ating with type of four hundred charac- phy and contentment. With theories and ters, and you can appreciate the limited ideas of life all his own, considering his expression that a newspaper would pos- lassitude and general indifference to for- sess with only four hundred pictures with eign ideas and customs, he is a colossal which to depict the happenings and problem and it will be a matter of gen- events occurring in a wide, wide world. erations before he attempts as a whole to In addition to this unsurmountable ob- commence to absorb the customs and the stacle, while the language is standard in religion of the Occident. as much as all the characters are the In Shanghai, we have seen, for the same all over the nation, they unfortu- first time, the great houses of entertain- nately do not pronounce them similarly, ment called "Tea Houses" for want of and there are several dozen different a better Chinese name, that would appeal tongues spoken in the nation. If a busi- to the masses. There are four of these 164 THE MID-PACIFIC

larger ones which are from four to five probably interprets far differently from stories in height. They contain all sorts the way we would. It is a sight and of amusements imaginable, and the ad- sound never to be forgotten when, in mission price is equivalent to ten cents passing one of these tea houses, we see American money—among the amuse- the Chinese seated within with hundreds ments being a picture show, tea gardens, of birds singing as though their little a menagerie, cages of all sorts of birds throats would surely burst with the riot from tropical climes and from all parts of sound that emanates from them. It is of China—a side show with peculiar leg- a common thing that two Chinese will less and armless Orientals who perform each wager that his bird can sing the unbelievable feats, peculiar and never to longest—the two cages are placed to- be forgotten deformed peoples from the gether on the table, and birds in a con- vast interior of China, music and vaude- test of this kind sometimes sing for three ville shows, .Chinese theaters in which or four hours unceasingly. plays are given, and immense tea rooms. In strolling through the streets, we One of the peculiarities of the China- wished to take pictures of the many in- man is his love for singing birds and he teresting sights that we were constantly has the greatest collection of remarkable encountering, but the Chinaman is super- songsters that are on the earth—Chinese stitious and believes that if the gods once linnets, canaries of all sorts, rice birds, get his picture, showing him in a poor and warblers of all descriptions. They dress or laboring at some lowly pursuit, are carried in cages shrouded in dark he will be destined to occupy the same cloth, which is lifted, and as the bird sees position in life in his next reincarnation, the light, he breaks forth into a melody and so in many instances it was impos- the like of which is not to be heard from sible to take the scenes we wished—their birds in other lands. The Chinaman, favorite method of preventing one is to with his family, carries the birds to the crowd about so closely that one is glad tea house and sets the bird cage on the to fold the camera and "beat it." Of tea table beside him—and while he sips course, there are exceptions to this rule, his tea, eats his sweet cakes and nuts, and it is not all of them who are so and smokes his water-pipe, he revels in averse to the kodak—in fact, some few the delights of the songs of the bird exceptions are anxious to have their world, 'the emotions of which music he photos taken. New Zealands' Grand Motor Tour

By ELSIE K. MORTON, of the Auckland Weekly News.

O the pilgrim from overseas, New takes its way. You pass through no Zealand offers literally hundreds commonplace villages, no house-lined T of wonderful scenic attractions. thoroughfares in all those hundreds of You may marvel at the inferno of her miles ; it is a region of wonder and in- terest. from start to finish. Beauty there thermal region, lose yourself in the en- is in unending variety, wild grandeur, chantment of her bush lands, find your- and the thrall of utter desolation, but the self silently worshipping in the wonder- only signs of the habitations of men are ful underground temples of her caves, the picturesque inns you stop at en route, but for sheer grandeur and arresting the little villages that still survive to beauty, there is nothing to equal the glory bring memories of by-gone days. of her Southern Lakes and Southern For the Grand Motor Tour takes you Alps. Most wondrously blue, ' • crystal through country world-famous, the coun- clear, are these lakes, brimming up from try of Central Otago, where in the unfathomable depths ; straight from their "seventies" men found gold-dust spark- shores, snow-crowned peaks lift their ling in the sands of the rivers, and spread splendid heights to the skies, and the the tidings far and wide, till all the land westering glow that lights a crimson fire was filled with men and mining camps. on their crests is mirrored ten thousand Nearly fifty years ago it was, but the feet down in the shining heart of the quest for gold still goes on, although old waters below. times may not return, and the country Fittingly has such scenery won for this that once echoed to many voices and part of the country the title of "The strange sounds is now silent and deserted, Switzerland of New Zealand." And it is the once thriving townships now little, through 30o miles of this region of lake dreaming, out-at-elbows villages caught and mountain that the Grand Motor Tour in the slow backwash of Time.

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The route you follow lies between filled ravines of the Remarkables of the Fairlie, in Canterbury, and Queenstown, present. From the opposite shores of Otago, a 44-mile detour being made to the Lake rises a chain of mountain peaks, the famous Mt. Cook "Hermitage," an Cecil Peak, nearly 7000 feet, snow- hostelry set in the heart of the Southern crowned and majestic, being the highest Alps. The cars—no ramshackle busses, point.. The climate of Queenstown is these, be it known, but fine automobiles clear and bracing, and ever in the sum- of from 3o to 6o horsepower, driven by mer air is the scent of roses, and a thoroughly expert chauffeurs—make the wealth of brightness and bloom in every trip in three days, and you may begin little garden. your tour at whichever end you please. Amid such surroundings, then, the A start from Queenstown brings you grand motor tour makes its start, and immediately into wild, rugged tracts of those who love to forswear a worrying mountain country with the magnificent world for a breathing space in gracious, climax of Mt. Cook and Mt. Sefton, and sequestered nooks, will do well to allow then the rest of the journey to Fairlie themselves a few days' respite here in matters but little, beyond giving you a Queenstown before setting forth again day's breathing space to assimilate all on their travels. that has gone before. The start of the Mt. Cook motor is quite the event of the morning, and there A Glimpse of Queenstown is a crowd of interested onlookers as the So we will assume that you have done great car snorts defiantly, flings its head the sights from North to South, as every in the air, so to speak, and races off im- good pilgrim should, and find yourself petuously down the main street and at last in Queenstown, a beautiful little straight out into the sunshine and beauty township on the shores of Lake Whaka- of the morning. Just beyond the town tipu, one of the loveliest gems in all the we cross the Shotover river, a yellow, exquisite chain of Otago's southern lakes. turbid stream whose sands, raked and The second deepest lake in New Zea- dragged and sifted for over half a cen- land, its waters, blue as heart of sap- tury, have yielded golden treasure phire, come welling up twelve hundred worth a dozen king's ransoms. Soon we feet from glacier-fed springs, and ripple are in a country of green fields, white- over golden beaches to the foot of the massed hawthorn hedges, with golden little township clustering at its edge. No broom and pink briar roses rioting in a town in New Zealand is more beautifully blaze of color by the roadside. set than Queenstown. To one side lie The first stop is Arrowtown, a quaint the Remarkables, a glacier-riven range little mining hamlet, backed by steep, of mountains, a gaunt rock-barrier tow- scarred cliffs, with miles of iron fluming ering up thousands of feet, the highest sloping down the mountain sides to va- peak, Double Cone, close on 8000 feet rious sluicing claims, where the quest for in height.. Long ages ago, in the dark gold still goes on. Soon, with a great and dreadful days when the face of the clatter of changing gears, we are charg- life-giving sun was turned away from ing up the Crown Range, cut with an the frozen desolation of this part of the amazing zig-zag road, a triumph of en- world, unfathomable depths of snow and gineering skill, that mounts 4000 feet ice lay upon the region that is now to the Crown Pass—a very thirsty bit mountain and lake, until the slow glacier- of work this, for any car ! But the view creep of countless aeons scored and from the top! Only one other view in gashed the stark precipices and cloud- all the rich storehouse of memory thrills THE MID-PACIFIC 167

me in remembrance as does that view prickly growth of the matagowrie, or from the Crown Pass, and that other is "wild Irishman." the outlook from Honolulu's own famous Soon we emerge from this region of Punchbowl hill. There is not the same mountains and river-beds and come to marvellous tropical coloring in the a strip of good road, beyond which lies Crown Pass view, but it combines beauty Pembroke, our first stop, a tiny crescent with a grandeur that makes up for the village curving to the shores of Lake lack of brilliant coloring. A circling Wanaka. chain of snow-clad mountains, culminat- ing in the wonderful outline of the Re- By the Shores of Wanaka. markables, encompasses the lowland. Far A few moments later, we have com- below lies Arrowtown, flat as a model pleted the first fifty miles of our tour, in relief ; in the middle distance, Lake and are at the inn beside the lake. A .Hayes, a sparkling stretch of blue set rambling, old-world place it is, set in a amid wide fields of grain, with groves wonderful garden, shadowed by tower- of Lombardi poplars rising straight and ing walnut and cherry trees, and look- tall from the shores, and over all the ing out over a superb vista of mountain brilliant sunshine of a crystal-clear, early and lake. What a place to come and rest summer morning. A few moments later in for awhile, a place from which to study we are dropping down, down, over the the mirrored beauties of mountain and edge of the mountains and into the val- sky ! A narrow strip of grass land gives ley below ; gracious, how we dropped ! place to the shining white rim of beach, only to rise again, as the poets say, every where poplars and willow trees grow, time we struck one of the boulders that and sweet-briars and the wild gooseberry bestrew that mountain trail. run riot. Straight ahead from the oppo- After that, we cross the Cardrona site shore mounts the pageant of the hills, river some thirty-three times, our way peak upon peak, many thousands of feet in height, gleaming in the blue of the sky, lying through the Cardrona Gorge, over or caught with trailing cloud wisps, far sixteen miles long, and one of the prin- snow-fields glowing with rosy flame as cipal districts in Otago's gold-mining the setting sun bids them goodnight. days. Little trace now remains of those Sheltered, almost encircled by moun- lurid, golden days of the rollicking "sev- tains, Wanaka is enwrapped in a peace- enties," save here and there the crum- ful, brooding beauty all her own ; serene bling stone walls of huts of the early and untroubled as the waters of Lethe, miners, long deserted, worn with winds no echo of a troublous world beyond and storms of half a century ; the re- disturbs her matchless calm. The waters mains of an old dredge, half-buried in of Wanaka, as of other New Zealand river silt, tell their own story, and up the lakes, are of immense depth, in places hillside are miles upon miles of wooden fully moo feet deep, and her arms fluming and water-races, abandoned and stretch out to the foot of far mountains. decayed. From Glen Dhu Bay, on fine days, you Now the scene is one of utter desola- may glimpse, beyond the vista of shining tion, almost terrifying in its rugged waters, little green islets and majestic loneliness. Not a tree nor a flower in peaks, the proud crest of Mt. Aspiring, all the landscape, nothing but steep reared to,000 feet aloft in a sky of sum- mountain sides, arid, sun-parched mer blue. heights, the only vegetation an occasional There are many delightful trips to clump of tussock, stunted tea-tree, or the be made round about Wanaka, but the 168 TIIE MID -PACIFIC most interesting to the traveler who has limpid depths. The echo thrown back by but a day or two to spare is the steamer the surrounding cliffs is a wonder that excursion to Pigeon Island, a picturesque holds you in amaze ; the veriest whisper little island with a lakelet of its own of your voice comes back clear-cut and right at the summit, 48o feet above the true. Neither inlet nor outlet to this re- surface of Wanaka itself. Surrounded markable lake-within-a-lake are visible, by steep cliffs great masses of lichen- nor have its depths been sounded, but it covered rocks, and luxuriant native bush, is supposed to be fed by springs, and this little lake lies calm and placid as a drained by a subterraneous passage open- dream in its rocky bed, each tiny islet ing out below the surface of Wanaka and overhanging branch mirrored in its itself.

The Hermitage Hotel at the foot of Mt. Cooke. A typical street scene in Moukden, the capital of Manchuria. Vermissmenim The Devil Dances of Manchuria

By LEON WADDELL.

OUKDEN, the old Manchu cap- nary, he would see many unusual sights, ital, is today of little import- for, during those two days the Mongo- M ance politically or commer- lian "devil dances" are in full swing, staged in the open court in front of the cially, although the Japanese seem to •re- ancient Llama temple, before an au- gard it as an important key. Few tour- dience of twenty thousand fur-clad peo- ists stop over in Moukden for it is not on ple of town and country. Cook's list of sights. Guide books usu- What are these dances, and what do ally point out that it is possible to see they signify ? The audience hasn't the here the ancient Manchu palace, an old slightest idea, and few of the perform- city wall, an imperial tomb or two, and ers know, but if you would ask the living finally conclude the paragraph by saying Budda or Great Llama who sits in sable "the city has a population of 250,000 robes with clasped hands and closed eyes, people, and is a model of Peking on a on a gilded throne in the center of the small scale." court yard, he would tell you that they If by chance a traveller should stop represent a struggle between angels and at Moukden on the 14th or 15th of Jan- devils, or between good and evil in

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• heaven, wherein the former always win. in a great two-wheeled cart and held by I reached the temple at about two small boys. The cart headed a pro- o'clock on the morning of the 14th and cession consisting of the great Llama, found a vast crowd everywhere. The carried on his throne, the sable robed trees and roofs nearby were completely priests, the musicians and the soldiers. filled, in fact the Friday executions failed Passing from the inner courtyard, the to attract such crowds. I elbowed my procession entered the great outer area way through the mass of coolies and cart where the crowd awaited the dances. drivers, marched boldly past the soldiers Soldiers beat back the audience with and police, into the very temple itself. bamboo canes until sufficient space had A foreigner can do things in China tfiat been cleared for the actors. The throne a native would never dream of attempt- was set at one side, a golden canopy ing. raised above it, 'carpets spread on the In the temple before the Holy of pavement, and the orchestras comfortably Holies, sat a solid gold Budda some two established in the background. feet in height, and clothed in silken robes. With a flourish of trumpets, the tem- This image is said to have come direct ple gates again opened, and a swarm of from Llasa where it was endowed with ghost-like figures rushed forth. On their superhuman powers by the great Dahli heads they wore white masks with great Llama himself. red mouths and terrible tusks. Their Before the image stood a table covered robes were of the finest brocades. These with golden garments, and on it many were the angels or good spirits. They bowls of rice and meat, more than a suf- danced before the throne singly, in pairs, ficient supply for any man, even a Mon- and all in unison. Their dancing re- golian. Before the table stood the head sembled a clog, a cake walk, and a Rus- Llama or living Budda, a fat, old fel- sian ballet, with postures and steps never low, in yellow brocaded robes, sable seen, even in American vaudeville. The lined, wearing a high pointed cap, the angels retired, the trumpets gave forth insignia of his branch of Buddhism. At fresh blasts, and a swarm of devils with his left stood a sable robed Llama hold- animal heads appeared. Some of these ing a dish of uncooked rice, on his right dancers resembled deer, some wolves, stood a second priest with a golden urn some dogs and other monkeys. Their surmounted by three peacock feathers. robes were even more magnificent than The ceremony commenced, the or- those of the angels. They danced with chestra outside began its clanging and skulls, with thigh bones, with swords, pounding, and a veritable pandemonium with golden goblets, and numerous other broke loose. Scores of yellow-robed objects, all emblematic of things that they temple boys started their wailing and knew nothing of. mumbling, while inside, the great Llama, These dances continued for two or with a bell in one hand and his thunder- three hours, the audience seeming never bolt charm in the other, fell on his knees to tire of them. When the great Llama and began hitting his head on the floor. concluded that the evil ones had been At intervals he rang the bell, the noise sufficiently beaten, he ordered the pro- ceased, and grains of rice were thrown cession to proceed. This time it was fol- into a bowl of fire, which was fed with oil from the peacock feather urn. This lowed by the people who were very cu- ceremony continued about fifteen min- rious to see what. would happen next. utes. Then the golden image was placed They marched completely around the THE MID-PACIFIC 171 outside of the temple enclosure, stopping priests mounted camels, and a caravan at intervals so that the priests might burn more dazzling than any circus parade incense before the golden image and passed under the three great monumental throw rice .out over the crowds. arches before the temple and started on After performing this circuit the its long journey to Mongolia.

Going to the dances. 172 THE MID-PACIFIC

A moonlight night in Hawaii is poetry idealized, whether on the shimmering waters or beneath the spell of the waving palms, balmy evenings are ever enchanting in the islands of Hawaii. An Hawaiian Night's Entertainment

By FRANK E. WHITE

011111=111===1:07 HE primitive soul of the "Isles of upon which I have spent any considerable Enchantment" is passing. The length of time and with.the exception of T ancient customs along with the Oahu the only one I have visited. More often than not such things fail to appear ancient race are swiftly falling into de- at a casual glance of the Volcano-bound cay, and in a few years more will linger tourist who as a rule sees only Hilo's only as rare memories like the fragrance hotel and Halemaumau, though occasion- of forgotten flowers. Sentiment awak- ally one more energetic or venturesome ens a vast regret that these things are than the rest may essay the easy trip to true. All the poetry, the romance, and Rainbow Falls. As a general thing, how- the adventure that is within us hungers ever, such people miss little they would for the old regime and its glorious tra- really care to see, for the majority of ditions ; but the progressive trend of them appear more adapted to Pate de events can clearly be recognized as of fois gras and caviar than to poi and raw the most benefit to the greatest num- fish. ber, and since that declaration is the very In spite of the fact, though, that Ha- keystone of this splendid democracy of waii's streets are not lined with grass ours we will of course admit its wisdom huts and that hula skirts are visible only —and treasure our memories. in curio shop windows, the primitive is For those who seek the utmost in the there ; there for those who earnestly want primitive life of the Islands, it is gen- to see it and will take a little trouble to erally conceded that the largest of them find it out. True it is that a Japanese offers the greatest attraction. Whether hui has a strangle-hold on the ancient or not that is literally true I cannot say Hawaiian fishing industry ; equally true from experience for it is the only one that the Chinese have pre-empted the taro

173 174 THE MID-PACIFIC patches and poi-pounding trade, yet here tropic night in Hawaii ! In the soft, and there like the last stars before an caressing radiance of the lovely Island approaching dawn a native lingers at his moon whose dazzling splendor has ex- feudal hearthstone, faithful to race and hausted a larger vocabulary of adjectives dignified tradition, plying the old trades, than mine ; with the gently stirring breeze catching his own fish and tilling his own fanning the cocoa palms and rippling the tract. I am glad to have seen a few of slumberous waters of the sable sea into these lone survivors of this lovable race. silver sheen, could anything more nearly In those I have met are still inherent approach our fondest ideal of Elysium? the homely virtues and generous in- And with such a background one fares stincts of bygone days, the one with most forth in pursuit of the monsters of the appeal being the intuitive hospitality deep. In that setting the spectator may shown the stranger within their gates by easily conjure up a dream of the days old and young alike. To the malihini, gone by ; the guide stripped of the ugly be he rich or poor, that simple cheer is garments of convention stands before us his for the acceptance, reminding one of like an Apollo Belvedere, his clean-cut ante bellum days in the Old South be- limbs and lithe muscles flexing under the fore commercialization in other lines de- dark skin as a noble bronze suddenly ani- manded that this quaint and beautiful mated. The well developed Hawaiian trait be also turned to account. male is indeed a splendid animal. Under One distinctly Island pastime that may the old regime they were trained to the afford a new thrill to the jaded tourist sea from earliest infancy, and in youth provided he understands swimming (its and age it was their home and liveli- companion art), is fishing by torchlight hood. What wonder then that they are in true Hawaiian. fashion along the bays as much at home therein as its natural and among the reefs and inlets of the inhabitants and the finny tribe have scant group. No clothing at all would be the show with the dusky intruders on their ideal costume for this occasion, and be- domain when skill is pitted against agility. fore the advent of the haole code of Most of the actual fishing is done by ethics was the most worn, but now as a the guide himself, who swims without concession to the ',spirit of , the times, effort from reef to reef though unable swimming trunks are used without the to use either hand, they being encum- top piece, though even that becomes bered with the heavy torch and trident. heavy after some hours in the water ; Let any one who imagines himself a and one evinces little surprise that the swimmer try it sometime with a fifteen- natives preferred the garment furnished pound flare in one hand and a loaded them by Nature to the cumbersome cov- spear in the other. They will admit that ering civilized man has devised. it is hardly a task for the novice. Of the What a ravishing vision is an Hawaii- accompanying party, one generally car- an Island night ! In nearly every clime ries the game bag, another a small elec- and latitude I have seen the most vaunted tric spotlight and any remaining impedi- and far-famed "sunrises" and "sunsets" ; menta is evenly distributed among the I have seen their gorgeous coloring and rest. Persons unaccustomed to the use wonderful cloud effects in the Canadian of only one hand in swimming will find and American Rockies, on the windswept that a small flask of oil (used to replen- Dakota prairies, by Florida's palmetto- ish the torch) will cause more inconve- fringed shores and along the West Coast, nience than could have possibly been but I would exchange them all for one imagined. THE MID-PACIFIC 175

Another thing to bear well in mind is ing things that one hardly knows had the sharpness of the lava and coral rock existed. One experience with some of on which one is often forced to walk them is enough to awaken a keen realiza- or stand in the course of the evening tion that they are very much alive. A and for which the tenderfoot must pre- sea urchin taught me to be careful what pare. Shoes are a difficult thing to I grasped with my hands when scramb- swim in, it is true, but the additional ling onto a reef, and even a Hawaiian effort required is more than compen- will fly from some of the more vicious sated for when a substantial sole is be- members of the eel family. tween a sensitive skin and the razor-like If luck is good and the tide favors barnacles encrusting every rock. They it is as a rule only a short time before would tear the average foot to pieces the trophies of the chase overflow the before one could walk fifty yards but the sack. The water is so delightful, the natives pay not the slightest attention breezes so balmy and the environment to them though no protective covering of the southern night so enchanting that whatever is worn. the sport is abandoned with a sigh of The marine life as seen through the regret. In the distance perhaps the lights crystal water with the flare is so beautiful and extensively varied that it fairly be- of the village twinkle with the myriads wilders. Fish of every sort, shape and of stars that embroider the heavens and description ; peculiar sea slugs, odd star the great moon, waning at last, sinks formations and ten thousand other amaz- slowly into the sea. The Murray river is the Amazon of the Island continent of Australia.

There is deep water, for small steamers, right up to the banks of the Murray. An irrigation canal, near the Murray.

Australia's Great River

By R. T. McKAY, M. INST., C. E.

HEN the Parliaments of the agreement meant more to Australia than four contracting parties—the the discovery of Bayley's Reward or W Broken Hill. It liberated untold wealth Commonwealths of Australia, that had been kept locked up by the fail- New South Wales, Victoria, and South ure to think nationally ; it turned the Australia—adopted the Murray River Murray into a river of gold. Because Agreement there were no big headlines the Murray question touched three in the newspapers. Save to the few, the States, the special interests of each State Murray River question was tiresome and for years obscured the national interest. dry as dust. It involved consideration All those years the golden waters of of "riparian rights," which are as old as the Murray have been wastefully flowing the rivers themselves, or at least as old into the ocean, while on either side of its as mankind,. and a seemingly never-end- banks millions of acres waited to be put ing conflict between navigation and irri- to more profitable use. Those years gation. The end of the long-drawn-out spent in the composure of State claims controversy passed almost without notice represented a loss to Australia greater by the public, and to most of those who than our total war expenditure. noticed it at all, it occasioned merely a Expressed in few words, the Murray sigh of relief. Yet, in sober truth, that River Agreement enables the three con-

177 178 THE. MID -PACIFIC

tracting States to conserve sufficient of Japan. In Queensland the catchment water to irrigate 1,500,0oo acres, and to area is 104,525 square miles, extending render the main stream and the Murrum- from the Condamine River in the east to bidgee navigable for 1,136 miles. the Paroo in the west, and its most north- Irrigation of the Murray lands should ern point, at the head of the Warrego, is and will go some way towards solving 25o miles from the New South Wales one of the most serious problems of Aus- border. In New South Wales the area tralia—the continued drift to the cities. within the Murray basin is 234,362 How serious that drift is cannot be too square miles, and it takes in the whole strongly emphasized. The growth of the of that State west of the Dividing Range, capital cities at the expense of the coun- with the exception of a small area in the try districts is a menace to the future of extreme northwest. In Victoria the area the commonwealth. draining into the Murray is 50,979 This monstrous growth in a country square miles, whilst the Murray catch- which must depend for existence upon ment within South Australia is 24,387 the production of wealth from the soil square miles. Probably no other portion cannot but be regarded as an evil threat- of Australia presents a more interesting ening the very life of the nation. field for development than the Murray Now, there is a reason for this drift River, wherein so many of the more re- from the land to the cities and towns. markable and characteristic features of Put shortly, it may be stated thus : Easier the continent are represented. It em- and more attractive conditions, and bet- braces the highest mountains and largest ter reward for labor. If, then, the drift rivers in Australia. The River Murray, is to be arrested, it can only be done judged by its length of channel and area by levelling the conditions of rural life of catchment, should be one of the great up to those of the cities. The man on the streams of the world ; and although its land must be assured of better returns ; volume of water is small relatively to its he must be guarded against the danger immense gathering ground, it is yet the of drought ; his social conditions must be greatest waterway in Australia, and its improved. Irrigation settlements offer utilization is of the first importance to the solution. They require a high type the inhabitants of the States through of settler, and they offer him returns which it flows. greater than he can obtain by the old Immense Areas Suitable for Irrigation methods. Instead of his nearest neigh- There is no doubt about the high qual- bor being twenty or thirty miles away, ity of much of the plain country in the he is in the midst of a closely-settled basin of the Murray. The character of area ; he has opportunities for social in- the country in the Goulburn Valley is tercourse, and, what is of even greater almost identical with a good deal of the importance, his children are able to enjoy Riverina country in New South Wales, the pleasures and comforts of the town. and in both cases not only is much of without sacrificing the freedom and the soil rich, but there are immense areas healthy conditions of the country. The where the levels are entirely suitable for Murray River scheme should prove a irrigation, and the cost of preparing the powerful factor in promoting settlement. land would be small. It is in these dis- The Murray Country. tricts, if anywhere in the Murray basin, The Murray River and its tributaries that the financial and social advantages drain the immense area of 414,253 square which may result from irrigation will be miles, being almost three times the size possible of realization. More land must THE MID -PACIFIC 179

be cultivated, and_better use made of that seriously injure the enormous vested in- now occupied. Only in localities where terests in the railways. What has actu- the work of reclamation has been in prog- ally happened is that the railway traffic ress long enough can the possibilities of has vastly increased since the completion soil and climate be appreciated. of the canal. There are few • rivers in any part of It requires very little imagination in- the globe which lend themselves so well deed to foresee that the development of to locking as the Murray, Darling, and the Murray lands under irrigation will Murrumbidgee. lead to the growth of a big tourist If the Australian rivers be made per- traffic, from which the railways will reap manently navigable, they will, with stor- a rich harvest. Once these great areas ages at the head of the rivers, lend them- are put to highly profitable use, and irri- selves to enormous development in irri- gation has brought prosperity to thou- gation enterprises, and to the settlement sands of orchardists, dairymen, and stock- of large numbers of people in the in- raisers, the Murray settlements will at- terior of the Australian continent. A tract visitors from all the States. The beneficial result in raising the level of improvement of the river and greater the rivers by weirs would be that the volume of traffic will make it profitable lakes and branches adjacent to the to cater for the traveller. With com- rivers would more often be filled. As an bined rail and river tickets at holiday example of the saving in irrigation rates, and good accommodation for tour- schemes supplied by pumping which ists, the novelty and picturesqueness of would be effected by thus raising the the trip will make it one of the most level of the river, it might be mentioned popular excursions in the three States, that if a lock and weir were constructed especially in the glorious months of at Mildura, it would save an annual ex- spring. Magnificent fishing could be pro- penditure of £3,000. Many of those who vided by stocking the reservoirs with are opposed to expenditure on our river trout, while branching off from the main systems express the view that as the route there are many beauty spots which river is tapped at so many points by only require to be made accessible and railways, the river steamers will divert known to secure their share of tourist the traffic of the railways, on which such traffic. large sums have been expended. The Irrigated Areas and "Repatriation" river will be a competitor of the rail- What a wonderful prospect, indeed, is ways, but instead of being ruinous, it opened up by consideration of the possi- will be helpful. Steamers will carry cer- bilities of the Murray lands ! Mildura tain kinds of traffic to which speed in carries a population of 6,000 people on the matter of transit is of minor im- its 12,000 acres ; the settlers are pros- portance, and probably with sufficient perous ; their homes show a very high force to influence the charges by rail. standard of comfort. It would, perhaps, Permanently navigable rivers will both be extravagant to say that the whole of aid and complement the railways, which the 1,5oo,00o acres to be served by the will always move produce for which quick Murray irrigation scheme can be brought transit is of the greatest importance. In to the high productive capacity of Mil- this connection, it is interesting to recall dura, with its return of £50 per acre. that when the Manchester Ship Canal But if we assume that results only one- was proposed, it was strongly opposed half as good are obtained, what does it on the ground that water-carriage would mean? On this irrigable area there will 180 THE MID-PACIFIC be a prosperdus population of nearly solving the problem of repatriation. It 400,000 souls, producing wealth to the is recognized that the returned soldier extent of £37,500,000 annually ! When who wishes to go on the land must be we remember that gold mining for the placed where, with ordinary industry, his whole of Australia employs only 29,70o return is assured, and, what is no less persons and produces gold to the value important, where he will not be isolated. of only /8,729,000 annually, the state- An irrigation settlement provides con- ment that the Murray River Agreement ditions almost ideal for such men ; the ;q of greater importance than the dis- pity is that this great scheme was not covery of Bayley's Reward stands fully undertaken years ago. Even now, how: justified. Nor, in considering these pos- ever, if tackled in an earnest and prac- sibilities, must it be forgotten that the tical manner, it will be in time to pro- development of the Murray lands by irri- vide for many of the men who have de- gation should play an important part in served well of their country.

A township near the Murray waters. The largest telescope in the world for Honolulu.

The Largest Telescope in the World

By T. S. H. Shearmer, Director Vancouver Observatory

ACK in 1914 I submitted plans for This plan has been laid before Dr. W. the erection of the great Jo-foot W. Campbell, the director of the Lick B (in diameter) instrument as a part Observatory, and he is enthusiastic, but of the research equipment of the College has expressed a desire that I should visit that observatory and personally go over of Hawaii. This, however, would re- details with him. It is therefore neces- quire my personal supervision, which is sary that I should know immediately impossible on account of my duties as whether the people of Hawaii wish to director of the Meteorological Service, of have the largest telescope in the world British Colum'bia. as one of the features of the Pan-Pacific I wish to suggest at this time that the Exposition, and permanently retained giant instrument be made one of the afterwards as the chief research instru- attractions at the proposed Pan-Pacific ment of the famous Lick Observatory. Exposition, and afterwards taken over It requires no words of mine to em- by the Lick Observatory of the Univer- phasize the great importance attaching to sity of California as the principal instru- the possibility of securing a Hawaiian ment in its future tropical station. branch of the Lick Observatory. This,

181 182 THE MID-PACIFIC with the Hawaiian Volcano Research ten-foot reflecting telescope since my ap- Bureau, already existing, would make pointment as Government Astronomer Hawaii the real scientific center of the and Meteorologist at Vancouver, B. C., Pacific. has been already detailed, I need not go And so I am making a second appeal into that subject here, but proceed to say to the people of the islands. The ques- that the present war having put a stop tion is whether they will allow this to certain appropriations for research unique opportunity to slip away a second work in Canada, the erection and begin- time. Surely there are enough public- ning of the work of this telescope must spirited and 'intelligent people in Hawaii be provided, for by funds outside those to see the matter through. There is no we had in view when the work of con- need to enlarge upon the fact that it would struction was commenced. When, there- be "good business." When I visited fore, the war halted the plans for the Honolulu a few years ago I was com- erection of the telescope at Vancouver, I paratively unknown to the majority of its immediately obtained leave of absence citizens, but I am glad to say that the from my government duties to visit Hono- case is a little different now. However, lulu and try to arouse an interest in the a very large majority of the people who matter there. I remained at Honolulu would, I am sure, take an interest in the several months, and, during that time I matter, have been overlooked, and so it made a careful study of the climatic con- is "my hope that this appeal will be given ditions, the suitability of the various sites such publicity that all who have the that seemed best suited for the purpose, power to help, may have the opportunity and other details.. As a result of these also. As there is no time to be lost in investigations my favorable anticipations making a prolonged general canvass of regarding the atmospheric conditions the citizens, I hope some definite sugges- have been fully confirmed, and I am more tion of offer may now be made, either than pleased with the tranquil and trans- by private individuals or organizations. parent skies that have added a new charm If a grant of $5,000 was definitely made to observational work. And here let me toward the cost of its erection in Hono- say that many years ago I had singled lulu, and one or two hundred dollars a out these islands as an ideal situation for month for a year or so, I should be able an astronomical observatory. The pub- to take immediate steps for the erection lished data regarding their clear skies of the instrument. With regard to the and mild, uniform temperature pre-emi- proposed branch of the Lick Observatory, nently entitled them to a first considera- Professor Campbell estimates that the tion as the location for a great telescope, telescope when ready for his use will have quite apart from the fact that their greater cost about $33o,000. southern latitude (compared with my For the information of those who may northern station), permits the observation now for the first time be asked to help of stars that never rise at Vancouver. It this undertaking, and who may not have is not, therefore, an eleventh-hour after- had their attention previously drawn to thought that has caused me to suggest astronomical matters, the following ex- erecting the ten-foot telescope at Hono- tracts from data presented to those who lulu. Another consideration in selecting took this matter up upon my first appeal, Honolulu as the site for this telescope will, I hope, explain the importance of was its longitude. There are very few this appeal. working observatories in this longitude. As the history of my efforts to erect a To explain why astronomers place so THE MID-PACIFIC 183

much stress on each advance in the size light as all existing telescopes show them. of their telescopes, I would remind you I might remark in passing, that to reveal of the fact that hitherto every increase a star as a true disc, instead of a mere in the diameter (or aperture as astro- point of light, is one of the greatest mers term it) of our telescopes has re- achievements remaining for visual tele- sulted in an increase in knowledge re- scopic discovery. garding the structure of the universe, and But it is not my present purpose to has, therefore, materially increased the enter into the technical details of optics sum total of human knowledge. and astronomy. I have merely touched The decisiofl on my part to construct upon a few points, selected almost at ran- a ten-foot reflecting telescope was a nec- dom, in order to explain the place and essary result of the line of research that standing that this ten-foot telescope will I had mapped out for myself over thirty take in the scientific world. I have tried years ago. The research work that I to show, as briefly as possible, the urgent proposed for myself at that time included, need for this instrument as an aid in the for example, such difficult problems as solution of some of the most important measuring the almost infinitesimal amount problems in astronomy ; and, also, whilst of heat that we receive from the stars. It aiding in this way the advancement of is also necessary in certain branches of the noblest of the sciences, the people of astronomical investigation to use very Hawaii will be doing a good piece of "pro- large telescopes in order to obtain suffici- motion work" by securing a unique at- ent light from the fainter celestial objects 'traction for the proposed Pan-Pacific Ex- to secure an impression on our photo- position, or other undertaking. It would graphic plates, or to see these objects vis- also be the very lest possible advertise- ually. ment for the clear, transparent skies and During the years that have elapsed the unrivaled climate of Hawaii. since my attention was drawn to this ques- The cost of the permanent mounting tion I have undertaken many researches and observatory will be considered at with a view to improving existing meth- another time, for we must "first creep and ods of making both glass and metal re- then walk." It is, however, quite certain flecting telescopes. I have had to invent that the interest that will follow the erec- new processes and methods of making tion of the instrument for show purposes both glass and metal specula (as the disc and also the scientific results that may be of glass or metal that forms the image expected from its use in that state, will in reflecting telescopes is called) of any be such as to materially pave the way for required diameter and thickness. My in- the permanent observatory. vestigations have been, I am pleased to In placing Honolulu's quota, or con- say, successful in every respect ; and, tribution, towards the transportation and after the expenditure of much time and installation expenses at $5,000 I am, of money, I have devised the requisite me- course, keeping in mind various other chanical devices for handling and con- sources of revenue that may be referred trolling these massive optical surfaces. In to at another time, but have no bearing other words, I would not now hesitate to on this appeal. For instance, after my undertake the construction of a reflect- conference with Professor Campbell I ing telescope (either glass or metal) with shall be able to say something regarding an aperture of twenty-five feet or more, an endowment fund for permanently car- and, therefore, capable of showing the rying on the work of the proposed Lick stars as discs instead of mere points of branch observatory here. 184 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Dominion Government has ex- gards the latter he has been a close student pended $2oo,000 on a six-foot reflecting of astrophysics for many years, and has telescope for Victoria; but the war cpm- made important contributions to the sub- ing on whilst the Vancouver plans were ject of the magnetic influence of the sun. under discussion, nothing could be done It may be pointed out that his prediction towards the expenses connected with pre- of the Zeeman effect in sunspots made as liminary work on the ten-foot speculum. early as 1877 was verified in 1908 when It has, therefore, been necessary to enlist Professor Hale succeeded in detecting it the aid of a private citizen—Mr. Edward with the spectro-heliograph at Mt. Wilson Mahon—in this respect. Mr. Mahon is a Observatory. His discovery of the 27-28 cousin of Lord Rosse, who constructed the day period in auroral displays is referred famous Rosse telescope over seventy to in Young's classical book, 'The Sun,' years ago, and we may therefore very and, also, in Professor Abbott's book on properly regard the ten-foot telescope as that subject. the lineal successor to the Rosse reflector. "The object that Mr. Shearmer has in These details are mentioned in order to view in the construction of this great tele- explain why the plans for the ten-foot in- scope is the all important one of securing strument call for assistance other than more light-grasping power. Every im- Canadian. portant gain in telescope size has brought Two years ago the British Columbia with it a substantial addition to our knowl- Academy of Science, as the representative edge of astrophysics. The new telescope, scientific body in British Columbia, passed which will be the largest in the world, a resolution favoring the various plans will be ten feet in diameter and will, in outlined in this appeal; and, in order to all probability, be equipped with both silj show with what confidence and approval vered glass and metallic mirrors, the lat- this scientific body regards these plans, I ter having been found by experience to give herewith the academy's address at possess important advantages for certain that time to the Board of Governors of classes of photographic work, and in vol- the University of British Columbia. The canic regions where the ordinary silvered address is as follows : glass speculum would rapidly tarnish. "With reference to the large reflecting "This telescope will (unless sent to telescope which is being made by Mr. T. Honolulu) be. erected near the Capilano S. H. Shearmer, the Government Astron- suspension bridge, several miles from omer and Meteorologist for Vancouver, Vancouver. By this arrangement the tele- the executive of the British Columbia scope at the university will be reserved Academy of Science would like to suggest for research work alone, which is a point that a good opportunity presents itself at of special interest to the academy and to the present time for identifying the Uni- the university." versity of British Columbia with the astro- The preceding communication from the physical and other researches in which academy also applies to Honolulu, as the Mr. Shearmer is engaged, and for which plans now under discussion are there dis- he contemplates constructing an instru- tinctly mentioned and endorsed. On ac- ment. count of recent events, however, all refer- "Mr. Shearmer combines optical skill ences to the B. C. University may be and mechanical dexterity with the qualifi- omitted, and the Lick Observatory sub- cations for successful research. As re- stituted in its place. Rubber Cultivation in Malaya

By N. A. BANKS

HE remarkable growth of the than ever before. From a comparative- rubber industry has been one of ly limited demand ten years ago the Tthe wonders of modern industrial- popularity of rubber has so increased ism. From an industry which only a that at the present time almost everyone few years ago was considered wildly in the civilized world uses rubber in speculative to one of the largest, most some form every day. profitable, and best organized businesses The many remarkable changes which of the present day—this, in short, is the have come about in the realm of rub- history of rubber. The cultivation of ber during this short period may be plantation rubber in Malaya and the Far traced back directly to the shifting of East, which was directly responsible for the principal source of world production the boom in rubber shares, was consid- from the wild rubber forests of the ered such a highly speculative venture Amazon to the plantations of the Far even so recently as the years 1909-10-11 East. Around this shifting of the that the English financial journals re- source, which revolutionized crude rub- fused to give space to the advertising ber production from one of the most of rubber shares for fear of inviting slovenly and unscientific processes to criticism for influencing their readers to one based on extremely careful and make doubtful investments. scientific principles as regards the gath- Yet this same rubber industry which ering of rubber, correct spacing of trees, at that 'time was referred to as another best altitude, soil, etc., are written the South Sea Bubble is now earning larger most interesting features of the later profits and enjoying a greater boom history of the rubber industry.

185 186 THE MID-PACIFIC

The first authentic account of rubber the Far East. Mexico, South Africa, is found in a book on the Indians of and other tropical countries produce South America, published in Madrid in comparatively negligible quantities. 1536 by two Spanish explorers, Orviedo Brazilian rubber comes from the and Valle. In it they describe domestic "hevea Braziliensis," of which there articles used by the natives, made from are three varieties—the black, the white, a material which they called "para." and the red. White and red "hevea" Two centuries later La Condamine was are common to the lower Amazon and sent by the French Academy in charge its tributaries, while the black is more of a scientific exploration to the equa- common to the upper rivers. The black tor, and he forwarded to Paris a •small variety produces the finest grade rub- quantity of rubber under the name ber and is particularly in demand be- "caoutchouc," together with a descrip- cause of its high quality resiliency. In tion of its uses. In 1770 Priestley dis- the trade it is known is "fine hard covered that "caoutchouc" would erase para," and commands a considerable pencil marks from paper, whence arose premium over other grades. Since rub- its common name of India rubber. ber trees grow wild in Brazil, no serious It was in 1823 that McIntosh took the organized attempt has been made to de- first step to apply rubber to practical velop plantation rubber there. purposes in Europe 'when his discovery Road cutting through the jungle, that rubber was soluble in benzine made carriage by boat or raft—transportation it possible for him to apply this knowl- difficulties in general—contribute to the edge in the manufacture of water-proof high cost of gathering Brazilian rub- coats and other rain-resisting articles. ber. Until recently, at any rate, the Shortly after this the Roxbury India rubber gatherers themselves have been Rubber Company was founded in the poorly housed, badly treated, and con- United States for the purpose of manu- sequently very inefficient. A high la- facturing waterproof materials, and it bor cost has been the result, and this, was in the early days of this concern together with the unscientific methods that a young chemist, Charles Goodyear, which prevail, makes Brazilian wild rub- after much experimentation, finally ber more costly to produce than Oriental proved that rubber mixed with sulphur plantation rubber. at a high temperature underwent a Until about 1909 Brazil had always chemical change which gave to it the been looked to as the principal source property of resisting extremes of heat of crude rubber. That year it furnished and cold. This process, vulcanizing, 42,000 tons, which was sixty per cent subsequently revolutionized rubber man- of the world production• Since then, ufacture and serves as the keystone of however, Brazil's position has been the rubber industry today. usurped by the Far East, its plantations Rubber is not a sap peculiar to one having supplied 150,000 tons as against tree ; it is a hydrocarbon prepared from Brazil's 37,000 tons in 1916. This re- a watery milk-colored emulsion called markable production has been accom- "latex" found in the bark of many tropi- plished through exceedingly low-priced cal and semi-tropical trees, as well as and efficient labor, and through the in the "guayule" shrub in Mexico and most highly developed cultivation ; and in certain African roots. Most of the as long as present conditions exist it is crude rubber produced in the world doubtful that Brazil will ever again as- comes from the Amazon valley and from sume the leadership. THE MID-PACIFIC 187

Plantation rubber is a comparatively of the plantation industry has been noth- new product. In 1876 an Englishman by ing short of marvelous. the name of Wickham took "hevea" From a production of practically noth- seeds from South America to the Far ing in 1900 to 150,000 tons in 1916 is East with him, and distributed them an amazing record of growth. During among some of the plantation owners. this period the production of the rest Just at that time it happened that a great of the world has remained stationary, many of the large coffee plantations in indicating what a boon this new source Ceylon were being ruined by leaf dis- of supply has been to the automobile eases, which had followed very close on industry. the heels of a general low level of prices Crude rubber has been produced with in the coffee market. In their despair success in South Africa, Mexico and in the planters had turned their attention the Philippines, but these sources are toward raising conchina and tea. Con- for one reason or another not expected china, too, suffered from overproduction, to threaten the supremacy of the F.ar and was abandoned as a major crop. The Eastern plantations in the near future. tea plantations which remained proved Their main drawback has in the past an exceptional opportunity for experi- been the relatively high cost, as well as menting with rubber, because a rubber shortage, of labor. The Philippines tree requires five or six years before would seem to be an ideal spot for the it comes into bearing, and during this development of rubber plantations. Prog- period may be interplanted with tea ress, however, has been hampered by without injury to either crop. Under adverse climatic conditions, such as the such circumstances it was that the ex- occurrence of severe windstorms and an perimentation with rubber plantations uneven distribution of rainfall, by lack proceeded. The results of the early of an adequate, cheap labor supply, and period were not particularly gratifying finally by certain statutory restrictions because of the prevalence of the convic- as to the size of land holdings. tion that rubber trees could thrive only in marshy ground. Experience dispelled The United States leads in the manu- that belief, for it wag found that trees facture of rubber products, and in 1916, planted on the hillsides brought equally 61 per cent of the crude rubber of the as good results. Once this fact was world was brought here for fabrication. firmly established, the owners of tea However complex the later stages of plantations rapidly took up the idea of manufacture may be, in the preliminary establishing rubber plantations, and dur- • stages all rubber is handled the same, ing the period 1893-1904 many of the whether the "latex" is drawn from vine tea plantations were interplanted with or tree in dense forests of Africa or Brazil or from the scientifically directed rubber trees. Similar development took plantations of Java and Malaysia. After place simultaenously in the Malay Pen- the curdling process, the ' curds are insula and the East Indies, and since washed and rolled into convenient shapes then the extension of old plantations and for shipment. From this point on, the the development of new ones has been manufacture of rubber goods breaks pushed energetically. up into many separate industries which have in common only the fact that all Progressive methods, experimentation, use rubber and that all use sulphur. and labor-saving systems have, as usual, Each company blends the various chemi- brought their reward, and the growth cal ingredients and kinds of raw rub- 188 THE MID -PACIFIC ber according to its own secret formu- duction, manufacture, and distribution las, and the manufacture of each class will intensify. of rubber goods is a story in itself. For a time the amount of red tape in- All rubber must be washed at the volved threatened seriously to delay the factory before it is fit for use. The delivery of crude rubber, as the staffs of washing process consists of submerging the consul generals were not prepared to thin slices of rubber in but water until handle the additional detail. To facilitate they swell and become soft, and then deliveries, the Rubber Club of America, running this dough through a sub- merged roller which squeezes out all which includes two hundred and forty- three of the leading rubber mnufacturers foreign matter. The rubber is then dried of the United States, offered to take by hanging it in sheets from the ceiling over this clerical work for the British of a well-ventilated dark room. It is then ready to be worked. Government, also keeping the accounts of all shipments to neutrals. This ar- There is a great variety of vulcaniza- rangement has proven a satisfactory so- tion processes for changing crude rub- lution. ber to the finished product. The pro- Many interesting developments are ducts, however, are even more diverse now transpiring in the rubber industry. in form, shape, color and use. It takes The tendency seems to be toward com- many kinds and grades of crude rubber bining smaller plants whick specialize used alone or variously blended to make in certain articles into larger groups the great variety of rubber articles in manufacturing a wider variety of articles. general use. A fountain pen calls for With the probable end in view of secur- one kind of rubber and a toy balloon ing greater economy, and likewise of for another. Products such as bathing assuring a constant and uniform supply, caps and barber's collars are very much some of the rubber companies are now like the original washed raw rubber in entering the plantation end of the in- their texture and elasticity. However, dustry. In view of these tendencies it the majority of rubber goods are not does not seem improbable that some of pure rubber, but a mixture. This is the larger companies will also add cotton due not only to the scarcity of rub- factories to their organization. This ber, which necessitates economy, but to move seems reasonable when we consider the fact that some articles are better that cotton enters largely into the manu- made with only a small percentage of facture of a great majority of rubber rubber. That is why many rubber pro- articles, such as tires, raincoats, rubber ducts are three and four times as heavy shoes and hose, and that great economies as crude rubber. New uses for rubber would result. Beyond cotton and rub- are being discovered daily. Its utiliza- ber no material at the present time seems tion as a substitute for leather promises sufficiently indispensable in the rubber to run into large figures. Much waste industry to make • it worth while to ac- rubber has been reclaimed and reworked quire control of a source of supply. by newly devised processes. We may truthfully say that rubber Recently American rubber manufac- has taken its place as one of the really turers have begun investing in planta- great industries of the world. Its de- tion companies. They want to feel sure velopment from the manufacturing side of an uninterrupted supply. The Jap- at least is a monument to the ingenuity anese, too, are entering the industry. and and industry of American manufacturers. it is expected that competition in pro- Its future seems unlimited.

=EP

Kauai and Her Palis

By -VAUGHAN MacCAUGHEY

Waioli Valley is directly inland from valley just west of Waioli; its stream de- Hanalei Bay and is remarkable for its bouches into Hanalei Bay. circular form and precipitous walls. It is about three and one-half miles long and Luma-Hai. nearly two miles wide at the broadest This is one of the major gorges of the part. This magnificent amphitheater is Hanalei region. It is wonderfully rich rimmed by stately cliffs, Mamalahoa and and varied in its gorges and forests, and Namolokama, 2,500-3000 feet high. Wai- in the majesty of its heaven-climbing oli means literally "singing waters. One palis. In many topographic features of the old hula meles (Niau-kani) be- Lumihai closely resembles its western gins : neighbor, Wainiha. "Up to the streams in the wildwood The western portion of the valley was formerly the site of many Hawaiian set- Where rush the falls Molo-kama." tlements. The middle portion lies be- Namolokama is a series of beautiful tween the Namolokama Mountains (el. cascades, far up in the rich, humid for- 4,200 feet) on the east and the La'au ests of Waioli. Ridge (el. 4,30o feet) on the west. The There were several heiaus in Waioli, head of Lumahai (4,58o feet), is a mar- one dedicated to Laka, goddess of the velous amphitheater, hung with the heavy hula, and another to Kanehekili, "Kane tapestry of the rain-forest and shot with the god of thunder." singing cascades. Waipa is a small but very picturesque In Lumahai Valley is Puuomamo

189 190 THE MID-PACIFIC heiau, an open platform about fifty feet of the valley. The power is transmitted square, and dedicated to Hinakukukapa, by a pole line, previously mentioned, over the goddess of the kapa makers. This the great ridges, gulches and swamps to venerable temple is now marked only by McBryde Plantation, where it operates portions of its foundation. the pumps for irrigation. This is often cited as one of the most remarkable irri- Wai-niha. gation projects in the islands. Wainiha ("rude, wild waters") is a The precipitous and dangerous native densely forested chasm of surpassing trail from Wainiha to the high, swampy beauty. It is the deepest and grandest plateau above the Napali region begins of the windward gorges. It is approxi- at a point about five miles above the mately twelve miles long and one and Mouth of the valley. This trail was well one-half miles wide, with a total area of known to the early Hawaiians, but has about twenty square miles. It is cut be- been little used for many decades, and is tween heavily vegetated perpendicular now almost obliterated by landslides. walls, which are several thousand feet An 'interesting account is given by Lyd- high in its upper part. Wainiha reaches gate of the early Wainiha population : into the very heart of Waialeale, and al- "Of profound depth, it is yet a narrow most intersects the ridge upon which valley, with very little 'bottom' land and stands Kauai's largest peak. that little much cut to pieces by the way- It is exceedingly humid ; at its mouth wardness of the violent stream, much the annual rainfall is 100 inches, at 700 given to plowing unnecessary channels in feet elevation about 170 inches, and at its unexpected directions. head, 300-400 inches or more. The lower "Accordingly, the area suited for culti- floor, although narrow and irregular, is vation is very limited, and the agricul- very fertile, and in the early days was tural value of the valley comparatively famous for its groves of kukui, bread- small,—yet, by working to the very ut- fruit, oranges, bananas, and fragrant most what there was, the valley, in prehis- hala. The stream receives its waters, not toric times, supported a large population. only from the torrential rainfall, but also All along up the river, wherever the en- from deep-seated fountains that under- croaching palis on either side leave the drain the montane swamplands. least available space, the land has been The upper portion of the brawling terraced and walled up to make Lois. And stream is interrupted by frequent cas- so the whole valley is a slowly ascending cades and rapids ; its bed is littered with stairway of steps, broad in the tread and great basaltic blocks carried down from low in the rises These artificial the heights above. In Wainiha is the lands have long since reverted to the wild- source of the valuable hydro-electric erness from which they came, and it is power controlled by the Kauai Electric only by chance that the traveler tumbles Company. The water is diverted from upon them, beating his way through the the stream at an elevation of 710 feet. jungle. But they bear witness to a large into a conduit comprising thirty-two tun- population." nels and eight connecting ditches. The There are several heiau remains in tunnels are all cut through solid rock Wainiha, mostly of the husbandry class ; and have a combined length of 17,400 one is devoted to the famous hog god, feet; that of the ditches is 5,600 feet. Kamapua'a. The conduit discharges into Pelton Wainiha Pali extends along the entire wheels at the powerhouse near the mouth west side of the valley, its crest gradually THE MID-PACIFIC 191

ascending from 3,000 to 5,000 feet, and region was well populated ; the native separating the Alakai Swamp on the raised kalo, sweet potatoes, bananas, etc. tableland from the stream-cut chasm be- There are still remains of many heiaus in low. Nualolo, Milolii, Awaawapuhi, and Ka- Puwainui Falls forms a romantic break waipapa Valleys. Some of the valleys, in the river bed at a distance• of one and such as Hanakapiai, have been used for one-half miles above the intake. At the coffee plantations, but these have not been extreme head of Wainiha is the ravish- commercially successful, although the cof- ingly lovely Hinalele Falls (el. 2,25o fee yields well. feet). Its stream descends abruptly from the Waialeale summit swamps (4,80o- Kalalau 5",000 feet). Kalalau is the largest of the Na Pali Na Pali gorges. It is a broad-bosomed valley of The region between Haena and Milolii splendid proportions, walled by radiant is one of the most isolated, primitive, and precipices and embowered in verdure. Ka- spectacular coasts in the Hawaiian group. lalau (literally "blunder" or "wander" Although the valleys are small, as com- significance unknown), formerly sup- pared with such great chasms as Waim-ea ported a large native population, but there and Wainiha, they are characterized by are now only two or three huts to mark magnificent cliffs and foregts. The chief the tragic story of a vanished people. Ka- valleys of Na Pali, with approximate huanui heiau stands near the beach on the lengths, are : Haena, three miles ; Hana- bank of one of the streams, from which kapiai, four; Hanakoa, three; Pohakuao, it is walled up about twenty feet. It is one ; Kalalau, three and one-half, very a platform forty feet square. Kane and broad ; Honopu, one and one-half ; Awa- Lono were its patron deities. awapuhi, three ; Nualolo, three ; Milolii, one. Nua-lolo All of the Na Pali valleys are short, At Kamaile in Nualolo, in early times broad, deeply-carved basins, beset with prevailed the custom of throwing fire- forest-clad palis, and carpeted with beau- brands from the lofty precipices. This tiful jungle growth. They all originate was a favorite and spectacular sport on in the massive Kaunuohua Ridge (eleva- dark, moonless nights. The long buoy- tion 3,000 feet), which lies between them ant wands of the, papala (Charpen- and the Waimea basin. They terminate tiera obovata), a small, soft-wooded tree, on a sublime series of sea cliffs that con- were prepared by careful drying. As front the vast Pacific. Their many the fire-sticks rushed through the air, cast needle-like peaks, heavily-fluted walls, by the powerful arms of the excited wide amphitheaters, and luxuriant vege- young men and chiefs, they swayed and tation all testify to torrential rainfall and drifted in the breezes, like fluttering prolonged erosion. The gulches in the leaves. The buoyancy of the wood, and extreme southwest part of Na Pali reach the action of. the wind sweeping up the the sea through narrow, canyon-like walls, face of the cliffs, caused the flaming darts which cut off all view of the humid in- to float in mid-air, rising or falling with terior. the wind, until the heavens appeared The Na Pali valleys are of little present ablaze with great shooting stars. The economic value, because of their inaccessi- vagaries of the wind made it difficult for bility and paucity of arable land. In the the spectators who were watching, thou- days of primitive Hawaii, however, this sands of feet below, on the shore or in 192 THE MID-PACIFIC canoes on the water, to follow the down- Wai-pao--hidden water. ward course of the brands through the Ka-hoana--the whetstone. air. One of the objects of this pyrotech- Hoea—( ?) nic sport was to catch the brand before it Kua-pa'a—the hard backed. struck the ground or water. Wai-lau—a bundle of poi. Milolii, the "little milo tree," is an ex- Niu—the coco palm. quisitely charming valley in the extreme Ka-awa-loa—the place where chiefs' western part of Na Pali. In its silent for- bones were buried. ests, on the ridge of Kaunuohua, is the Naho-malu-loa—the shaded depth ( ?) remnant of a small shrine, Kaunuaiea. Ka-helu-nui—the place of the great numbering. Mana. Wai-aka-mo'o—the stream of the liz- The western arc of the island, between ard. Waimea and Milolii, scarcely falls within Ohai-ula—the red ohai bush. the province of this paper, as it possesses Ka-hoa-loha—the friends. no large valleys. There is a series of les- Ka-ula-ula—the redness. ser gulches, 75o to 1,5oo feet deep and He-ele-ele—the dark stem. two-five miles in length, symmetrically Hiki-moe—poetical name for the west. radiating from the general direction of Ka-awe-iki—the little burden. Waimea Pali. These gulches are prac- Kau-hao--( ?) tically dry, save for a few hours after Ma-kaha—( ?) storms. The semi-arid uplands which they furrow are of no agriculutral value, These gulches all open upon the face save as poor pasturage. The names of of a somewhat abrupt cliff, 250-1,000 these dry gulches are interesting to the feet high, and becoming gradually higher student of Hawaiian lore and language. and steeper towards the north. The cres- as many are interwoven with the ancient centic lowland area (Mana and Ke-kaha) chants. In order from south to north is marshy and sandy and has evidently they are : been but recently elevated above the sea. Ka-pili-mao (the green pili grass). The celebrated "barking sands" (dunes Wai-aka—the divided water ( ?) of coral sand) are situated along the Paua—an oyster. northwest shore of this plain.

Bolivia the Land of Plenty

By GORN AULT AGASSIZ.

HILE Chile is the greatest they are not being actively developed at borax producing country of present, there is every reason to believe W the world at present, large de- that they will be shortly, as a French posits of this valuable mineral have syndicate has recently been organized been found in Bolivia, these being located •for this purpose. When the war broke along the banks of the Auri River, ad- out development work was being under- jacent to the Peruvian frontier. taken on a large scale by a prominent Another mineral resource that seems English corporation, which was forced destined to play an important role in the by world conditions to temporarily sus- future commercial life of Bolivia is pe- pend operations. It is the intention of troleum. Unfortunately the petroleum this company to continue work with the • fields lie in the eastern part of the repub- restoration of peace. lic, 500 miles from the great Plateau, and As a mining field 'Bolivia has many therefore cannot be utilized in promoting factors in her favor. Conditions on the the development of its mines, as it would whole are more favorable than those of be commercially impracticable to convey most regions, as labor is plentiful and oil such a great distance and to so high cheap, the climate equitable, and natural an elevation, consequently any real de- difficulties are readily overcome. On velopment of this industry will be depen- the other hand, she has some defined dis- dent wholly upon the export trade, which, advantages, of which inadequate trans- with the Paraguay and Amazon systems portation facilities and an insufficient guaranteeing economical transportation supply of fuel and power are the most should be most profitable. important. A progressive policy of rail- The Bolivian oil fields are said to ex- tend from Brazil to Argentina and from road expansion, however, is helping to surface indications to be among the solve the transportation problem, while most important in the world. While there is an increasing tendency on the

193 194 THE MID-PACIFIC

part of mine owners toward a develop- constituting the country's chief source of ment of the hydro-electric possibilities of fuel. the many enormous waterfalls, which in The vicuna and guanaco are undomes- number and capacity are more than suf- ticated, and are valued chiefly for their ficient to supply all the power and fuel wool, especially the vicuna, whose coat is needs. Some of the larger mines, too, exceptionally fine and costly. are installing gasoline-operated Deisel Bolivia's forests have an incalculable engines. wealth, although their development for To anyone with mining experience, the most part is far remote, due to the sufficient capital to purchase modern min- same difficulty that is the compelling ob- ing machinery and equipment, who at stacle in the exploitation of practically all the same time is prepared to exercise of the natural advantages of this well- patience and evince an abiding faith in endowed land—inadequate transporta- the country, mining in Bolivia would tion. seem to offer a profitable field. No less than six varieties of mahogany A vastly increased railroad mileage, are found in Bolivia. Then there are its more and better rolling stock, more capi- forests of rubber, its famous ironwood tal, mining machinery of the most ap- tree, its corupan, containing 25 per cent proved design, experienced mining en- tannin, and an infinite number of other gineers, modern smelters and reduction dyewood trees, such as the lapocha and plants—these are the outstanding re- the mumday, with hardwoods without quirements of the Bolivian mining in- number. dustry. Throughout these forests the vanilla The agricultural potentialities of Bo- and castor oil plants, the cacao and the livia are no less important than the min- sarsaparilla grow wild, while in many eral, although their development will sections are to be found splendid groves probably be much' slower owing to the of wild orange. almost entire present lack of transpor- But of all its trees and fibrous plants, tation in the chief agricultural sections. its two commercial varieties of rubber are the only ones that can be considered Situated entirely within the tropics, from a commercial point of view, aside Bolivia, because of varying altitudes, can from its tannin bearing and dyewood produce a remarkable variety of crops, trees. including all the chief staples and fruits As a rubber producing country Bolivia of the temperate, semi-tropical and trop- is becoming more important every year. ical zones, but of course not all these This is a comparatively new industry, crops in all sectioiv. for until thirty years ago there was prac- In the foothills, horses and sheep thrive tically no rubber production, and even the splendidly, while for the rearing of al- existence of the mighty rubber forests of pacas, vicunas, llamas and guanacos, no the great eastern plain that border upon • section is said to compare with the Boliv- the Beni and stretch far to the north ian Puna. It is estimated that there are and northeast was unknown. 400,000 llamas on this great plateau all Bolivia has a large area of natural rub- told, and approximately i8o,000 alpacas. ber habitat and with the development of The llama is not only the chief beast of the industry unquestionably will have a burden but serves many other purposes, large planted area. the inhabitants utilizing its wool, flesh, Her rubber is of an exceptionally fine skin, bones, and excrement—the latter quality, but does not reach the markets THE MID-PACIFIC 195 of the world with her name in any way was made. Bolivia points to this particu- associated with it. The rubber of her lar loan, negotiated through the Credit great Beni forests, for example, is ship- Mobilier de Paris, as an example of ped from Brazilian ports as Para rubber, Europe's confidence in the integrity of the while that of the higher forests of Ma- country's credit, it having been disposed pari, Tipani, Corrico, Challana and of at a very attractive price, with the Zongo, which descend northeast from favorable interest rate of 5 per cent, and the Cordillera Real, is shipped as Mol- an annual redemption requirement of lendo rubber, because it reaches the only I per cent. world through the Peruvian port of that Gold is the standard of monetary ex- name. To reach Mollendo this rubber is change in Bolivia, having been made so carried through one of the many passes by the law of 1908, and the English sov- across the Puna to Chililaya, on Lake ereign and the Peruvian pound are rec- Titicaca, carried up this lake to Puno, and ognized legal tender, the fixed rate of then transported by rail to its destina- exchange for each being 12 1-2 bolivia- tion. nos, which gives the boliviano a value of The peculiar distinction of the so-called 4o cents in United States currency. This, Mollendo rubber trees is that they do of course, is subject to exchange fluctua- not grow in swamps, but along the slop- tions. ing sides of the deep quebradas or val- Negtling in picturesque seclusion in a leys, deriving their moisture from the valley of extraordinary fertility, La Paz, perpetual fog that is created by the melt- Bolivia's chief city, combines in perfect ing snows on the higher mountains. Be- harmony the quaint architecture of old low the limit of this "cloud" the rubber Bolivia with that new type of architec- tree of the hills will not grow. ture that so well expresses the spirit of Bolivia is divided into eight depart- progression that is inspiring all South ments, each governed by a prefect ap- America forward to a new day. pointed by the president. These depart- La Paz was founded in 1548 by Cap- ments are again divided into provinces. tain Alonzo de Mendoza, on the site of The sovereignty rests with the people, the village of Chuquiyapu, established who enjoy absolutely religious and politi- according to tradition about 1190 by the cal freedom under a constitution that may Fourth Inca, Maita Capa. be said to be as liberal as any framed— The city has an elevation of 11,906 which is perhaps the reason why there feet and enjoys a delightful climate. It has been no serious political disturbance is served by an up-to-date electric tram- in Bolivia for more than forty years. way and is being rapidly modernized It is the proud boast of Bolivia that along all lines of civic betterment. Its as a nation she has an unsullied financial public buildings are splendid edifices, reputation, having punctually paid the fully comparable to those of much larger interest on her public debt, including both cities, while many of its commercial ' inland and foreign loans, and attended structures admirably reflect the spirit of strictly to their redemption. the times. It has, too, many beautiful The foreign debt of Bolivia at the residences, while the hospitality of its present time amounts to about .$15,000,- people is proverbial. Its present popula- 000, of which nearly $5,000,000 is on de- tion is about 90,000. posit to the credit of the country pending Bolivia's second city is Cochabamba, completion of certain lines of railroad, distant some 285 miles from La Paz, a for the construction of which the loan little inaccessible at present because of 196 THE MID-PACIFIC

the noncompletion of the Bolivia Rail- To the northeast of Potosi lies Sucre, way's extension from Oruro. This road, the capital of the republic. There is no however, will be in operation very railroad to Sucre, but one is contemplated. shortly. At present automobiles and wagons are Cochabamba is situated in the center the only methods of travel. Sucre is a of a most prolific agricultural region. It delightful old town, and is the seat of has an extensive electric railroad sys- the chief university of the republic. Its tem that not only serves its own needs, population is about 20,000. but connects it with a number of import- Oruro is another of Bolivia's important ant contiguous towns. Its altitude is towns, being the center of the tin indus- 8,367 feet, its popuation in the neighbor- try. It has an altitude of 12,000 feet and hood of 50,000. a delightful climate. Nearly all the The oldest and in many ways the most houses are built of sun-dried bricks, plas- interesting city of Bolivia is Potosi, tered on the outside and brightly painted founded in 1545 by Pizarro, half brother in varied hues, which gives them a quaint of the conqueror of the Incas. In fact, and most picturesque effect. The win- of all the ancient cities of Spanish dows, too, all have their flower boxes, an- America, it is to be doubted 'whether any other evidence of the esthetic taste of the is more historically famous. At Potosi inhabitants. was erected the first mint in the new Bolivia's most important eastern city world, the remains of which can be seen is Santa Cruz, which lies in the central today, even to the quaint'wooden machin- part of the state, among the glorious foot- ery that was brought here on the backs hills nearly six hundred miles southeast of Indians from far-away Argentina. In of La Paz. It is the market town for a the height of its power and glory, Potosi good agricultural country, a section that had a population estimated variously at offers special opportunities for cotton cul- from 150,000 to 200,000 souls, but with ture. Unfortunately, the nearest railroad the gradual falling off of the production at present is three hundred miles away, of its wonderful mines the population too consequently the transportation difficul- has fallen, until now its has not more ties are almost insurmountable. Steam than 25,000 inhabitants. connection with the outside world, how- Potosi can now be reached by rail ever, should make this one of the most from Rio Mulato, on the main line of the important of the smaller cities in South Antofagasta & Bolivia Railway Company. America. Advertising Section

The Pacific Mail Steamship Co.

The S.S. "Colombia" en route.

The Pacific Mail Steamship Company Some of the features for the safety and has not only resumed its service between pleasure of passengers on these Pacific San Francisco via Honolulu to Japan, Ocean greyhounds are : - wireless telegra- China and the Philippines, but it is carry- phy and daily newspapers, watertight ing the American flag by its direct steam- bulkheads, double bottoms, bilge keels, ers to India and to the Latin American oil burners (no smoke or dirt), single Coast as far South as Panama, with con- rooms and rooms- with two beds, two nections beyond, all along the Pacific washstands in each room, as well as large South American coast and with Europe. clothes' lockers, electric fans and electric The Pacific Mail Steamship Company reading lights for each bed, spacious operates indeed the one "American Round decks, swimming tank, Filipino band, ve- the Pacific I,ine" of comfortable and mod- randa cafe, beautiful dining saloons, ern steamers. large and small tables, and every comfort The vessels of the Pacific Mail Steam- of modern ocean travel with the best ship Company are all splendid passenger cuisine on the Pacific. ships of 14,000 tons American registry. The general offices of the Pacific Mail The new sister ships, "Colombia," "Ecua- Steamship Company are at 5o8 Califor- dor," and "Venezuela" constitute the nia Street, San Francisco, California, service to Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, with branch offices at Honolulu, Hong- Shanghai, Manila and Hongkong. kong, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai and The "Colusa" and the "Santa Cruz" are Manila while agencies and sub-agencies the pioneers in the service to Singapore, exist in almost every Pacific port, in all Calcutta and Colombo via Manila. of the large cities of America and the A fleet of steamers maintains the service rest of the world. between San Francisco, Mexico, Central George J. Baldwin, President of the American ports and Panama. Pacific Mail Steamship Company is lo- For the Tourists or Shipper to almost cated at 120 Broadway, New York City, any part of the Pacific, the new American N. Y. ; Daulton Mann, Assistant Gen- vessels of the rejuvenated Pacific Mail eral Manager ; W. A. Young, Jr., Steamship Company offer inducements General Passenger Agent, at 508 Califor- that are not being overlooked. nia Street, San Francisco, California. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC

The T. K. K. Trips to Hawaii and the Orient I

Welcoming a T. K. K. Liner.

The United States government now permits the palatial liners of the T. K. K. (Toyo Kisen Kaisha) to carry passengers back and forth between San Francisco and Hawaii. The Honolulu Chamber of Commerce has raised a special fund of $50,000 to be used immediately in advertising Hawaii's attractions and allurements for those who need rest or who have earned recreation. The T. K. K. will occupy as its Hono- lulu office the rooms vacated for it by the Hawaii Promotion Committee, in the Alexander Young Building on Bishop Street. The head office is in Tokyo and the San Francisco office at 625 Market Street.

The two funnels of the T. K. K. Liner dominate this shipping scene. THE MI D-PACIFIC 3

• The Foreign Trade Club of San Francisco W. H. Haigue, Secretary, (N4 onadnock Building, San Francisco)

The Foreign Seattle. Across-the-seas correspondents Trade Cluj) of invited to write San Francisco office. S a n Francisco Banking and foreign trade go hand-in- meets every hand. -San Francisco boasts of some of Wednesday ev- the most interesting and historic banks ening in the lec- in America. The Wells-Fargo National ture hall of the Bank is perhaps the best known of these. Merchants Ex- It was founded in 1852, a pioneer of the change Building, gold days, with a present capital and sur- to listen to some plus of $11,000,000 and assets of $75,- disting uished 000,000. It has been foremost in building over-seas speak- up the financial and business prestige of er, and to study San Francisco, and has spread facilities the ethics of for- for trade across the Pacific. Deposits of eign export. Vis- visitors and correspondence are invited, itors to San exchange is issued, collections and pay- Francisco are in- ments effected, and safe deposits boxes vited to the lec- provided. tures. The Pacific American Trading Com- Thomas W. pany—Frank H. Stone, manager—offices Simmons & Co., in the Santa Marina Bldg., 112 Market Orient Building with head offices Street, San Francisco, and representa- on the ground tives in all countries. C. I. F. quotations floor at 240 Cali- given and samples sent whenever prac- fornia Street, is represented in the For- tical, free. The motto of this house is eign Trade Club by its vice-president, "Service." F. S. Douglas. This very important firm • of International Merchants has branch Mr. H. W. Friesleben, of the Foreign houses in New York, Seattle, and Hong- Department of the Pacific Sanitary kong. Specializing as it does in Oriental Manufacturing Company — 67, New products, it has its own representatives Montgomery Street, San Francisco—is in every large city from Yokohama, the firm representative in the Foreign Japan, to Sourabaya, Java, and Bambok Trade Club. His firm has installed "Pa- in Burmah. All codes used ; cable ad- cific" plumbing in many of the public dress, "Simmons, San Francisco." schools of San Francisco and California, The President of the Foreign Trade and has trade relations with every part Club is William H. Hammer, of the Ship- of the Pacific. ping and Commission firm of Hammer The home office of the Sperry Flour and Company, 310 Clay Street (Phone Company is in the Orient Building, 332 Sutter 54). Visitors to the Commercial Pine Street, San Francisco, the head- Museum in the Monadnock Build- quarters of Pan-Pacific trade. A Sperry ing may reach this and other Foreign product, whether it be flour or cereal, Trade Club firms by phone, free service will' earn appreciation around the Paci- being supplied. fic, because everything that men, method, Mr. Ben C. Daily, of the Foreign Trade and modern machinery can do to make it Club, is the representative in San Fran- worthy of favor has been done before cisco of the Overseas Shipping Company, it appears on the grocer's shelves. his office being in the Merchants Ex- The members of the Associated Manu- change Building (Phone Sutter 4459). facturers' Importing Company, 883 Market Street, have been established in This concern reserves space on Pacific business in San Francisco since 1857. v.essels for its customers' at lowest rates; They specialize in hardware, tools and is efficient, and handles all details in con- metals. Imports and exports of all raw nection with applications for Govern- or manufactured products that amount ment Export licenses. Other offices at to a large volume undertaken. This company has large resources, good people 327 La Salle Street, Chicago ; 17 Battery to act as American Buying Agents for Place. New York; L. C. Smith Bldg., Overseas Merchants.

4 THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu from the Trolley Car

Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the H onolulu Rapid Transit & Land Company.

You may take the electric tram as you lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki step off the steamer in Honolulu, and on the heights behind Diamond Head. for five cents ride for hours—if you wish which is now a great fortress ; in fact. to take transfers—to almost every part the entire day may be spent with profit on of this beautiful city and its suburbs. the car lines. At Waikiki often may be There appeared in the Mid-Pacific seen from the cars men and boys disport- Magazine for January, 1915, an article ing themselves on their surfboards, as telling of a hundred sights to be seen they come in standing before the waves from the street cars. on these little bits of wood. At one end of the King Street car line The cars in Honolulu are all open, for is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, the temperature never goes below 68 de- from which may be seen the cane lands grees, nor does it rise above 85 degrees, and rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor and there is always a gentle trade wind . in the distance. Before reaching Fort stirring. Shafter is the Bishop Museum, having When Honolulu was ready for her the most remarkable Polynesian collec- electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid tion in the world. At the other end of Transit & Land Company completed the the line is Kapiolani Park. a beautiful most perfect system of its kind in the tropical garden, in which is located the world, and it is always a delight to ride famous aquarium of Hawaiian fish (con- smoothly over its lines. ducted by this company) rivaled only by It is but twenty minutes by car to WA- the aquarium at Naples. kiki beach and but five minutes longer, by Transfers are given to branch lines penetrating several of the wonderfully the same car, to the wonderful aquarium beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- in Kapiolani Park. THE MID-PACIFIC 5

•••-•••■■•■■•■•■■■■■■■■■■■•■■••■••••••••MM■■■■•■■■•••■■■••■•■•••••■ The Island of Maui

r I

0 01 tit 11 NORMAL S, POOL ,S CALI or

P A ET) AND i NiVILL15 T tit .s

AALAEA

MAU Meet in Statute Slua , 728 Length 4811les. Breadth s Highest Elevation 10032 Feet Eflinc, Crater In the Worid latton over 45.000 Divance from Hon Eleven Sugar Rant Sugor Crop For 1501:

Map by courtesy of Alexander ES Baldwin, Ltd.

The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., ance Co., The Home Insurance Co. of (known by everyone as "A. & B."), is New York, The New Zealand Insurance looked upon as one of the most progres- Co., General A. P. & L. Assurance Cor- sive American corporations in Hawaii. poration, Switzerland Marine Insurance Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents Co., Ltd. for the largest sugar plantation of the The officers of this large and progres- Hawaiian Islands and second largest in sive firm, all of whom are staunch sup- the world, namely, the Hawaiian Com- porters of the Pan-Pacific and other mercial & Sugar Company at Puunene, movements which are for the good of Ha- Maui. They are also agents for many waii, are as follows : other plantations and concerns of the W. M. Alexander, President ; H. A. Islands, among which are the Haiku Baldwin, First Vice-President; J. Water- Sugar Company, Paia Plantataion, Maui house, Second Vice-President and Man- Agricultural Company, Hawaiian Sugar ager; W. 0. Smith, Third Vice Pres- Company, McBryde Sugar Company ident ; John Guild, Secretary; C. R. Hem- Ltd., Kahului Railroad Company, Kauai enway, Treasurer; F. F. Baldwin, Direc- Railroad Company, Ltd., and Honolua tor; C. H. Atherton, Director; W. R. Ranch. Castle, Director. This firm ships a larger proportion of Besides the home office in the Stangen- the total sugar crop of the Hawaiian wald Building, Honolulu, Alexander & Islands than any other agency. Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices In addition to their extensive sugar in Seattle, in the Melhorn Building; in plantations, they are also agents for the New York at 82 Wall Street, and in the following well-known and strong insur- ance companies : Springfield Fire & Ma- Alaska Commercial Building, San Fran- rine Ins. Co., American Central Insur- risco. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Island of Kauai

TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Navigation Company, maintaining the premier ferry service between Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kisen Kaisha, main- taining palatial ocean greyhound service between San Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, have their Hawaiian agen-

HAWAIIAN cies with Castle & Cooke, Ltd. ANUS This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchants streets, Honolulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Navigation Company. The adjoining offices are used by the firm for their business as sugar factors and insurance agents ; Phone 1251. Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for many of the plantations throughout Ha- waii, and here may be secured much varied information. Here also the tour- ist may secure in the folder racks, book- lets and pamphlets descriptive of almost Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd. every part of the great ocean.

Ula N9k■V.51a001 or r.,t1,

KAUAI mute Square Mites 547 T000rty-ftVe Mites Acr,<, Elevation 5250 Fee ; .ce. from Honolulu,ea iOn koz,v Paapia

for )907. ?Eat fr.. THE MID-PACIFIC - 7

FERTILIZING THE SOIL. Millions of dollars are spent in Hawaii fertilizing the cane and pineapple fields. The Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Com- pany, with extensive works and warehouses in Honolulu, imports from every part of the Globe the many ship loads of ammonia, nitrates, potash, sulphur and guano that go , to make .the special fertilizers needed for the varied soils and conditions of the islands. Its chemists test the soils and then give the recipe for the particular blend of fertilizer that is needed. This great industry is one of the results of successful sugar planting in Hawaii, and without fertilizing, sugar growing in . the Hawaiian Islands could not be successful. This company began operations in Mid- way Islands years ago, finally exhausting its guano beds, but securing others. 8 THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu home of the American Factors Co., Ltd. (EXterior)

Interior. The Home Building in Honolulu of the American Factors Co., Ltd. Plantation Agents and Wholesale Merchants TIIE MID-PACIFIC 9

Electric Lighting in Honolulu

The general offices on King Street.

THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC CO.

N HONOLULU electricity costs and fifty horse power to the Federal eight cents per kilowatt, for the Wireless Station, fifteen miles distant, I first two kilowatts per month, per besides current for lighting all private lamp, and six cents thereafter. From residences in Honolulu, as well as for the Hawaiian Electric Company plant, operating its own extensive ice plant. power is furnished to the pineapple can- A line has also been built to furnish neries (the largest canneries in the light and power to the great army post world) to the extent of seven hundred of Schofield Barracks, twenty miles dis- horse power, with another two hundred tant from Honolulu.

The power house and ice plant. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Trust Company in Hawaii

The Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., Its Real Estate Department, which is Ltd., Is the leading Trust Company in in constant touch with the Real Estate the Hawaiian Islands, located on the market, sells and rents property in any principal corner of the business section part of the Islands and if desired attends of Honolulu. to the collection of rents and the upkeep By special legislation it is empowered of properties in a businesslike manner. to act in every fiduciary capacity and Its Insurance Department attends to handles trust funds running into the mil- the placing of insurance against the haz- lions yearly. ard of fire in the leading mainland fire It maintains special departments to companies and seeing that its clients are handle every branch of a trust business, fully protected in this respect. having at the head of each department a The Bonding and Casualty Department man specially qualified for that particular furnishes Surety Bonds and Casualty In- work, acting directly under the personal surance of every nature with the leading supervision of the executives. Its Stock Eastern Bonding Companies. and Bond Department attends to the pur- It maintains Safe Deposit Vaults for chase and sale of all securities, and its the protection of valuables, which are years of experience in this work specially rented at a very moderate figure, and qualifies it to render assistance to its negotiates loans in a most satisfactory clients in the selection of investments. manner.

7[11 Mt/Tr[61.1.IFF 11:61166M.

The Trent Trust Company, though a to handle the work of Manager of Es- comparatively young organization, is tates, Executor, Fiduciary Agent, and one of the most popular financial in- Agent for Non-Residents. It has the stitutions in the Islands. Organized in following departments : Trusts, Invest- 1907, it has already doubled its capi- ments, Real Estate, Rents, Insurance, talization to $100,000. According to and Safe Deposit. the last statement its capital undivided The Trent Trust's offices are located surplus amounted to $188,788.51, and on the ground 'floor of 921 Fort Street, its gross assets to $538,067.55. the principal business thoroughfare of The company is efficiently organized Honolulu. THE MID-PACIFIC I i

The Catton, Neill Building, Honolulu. Al so the home of the General Electric Co. in Hawaii.

Honolulu is known around the world Half a century is an age in the life of for the manufacture of sugar mill ma- Honolulu. The first frame building is chinery. Much of this is made by Cat- not one hundred years old, and the first hardware store, that of E. 0. Hall & . ton, Neill & Co., Ltd., Engineers, who Son, Ltd., was not founded until the build and erect sugar mill machinery. The year 185o, but since then, on the com- works are on South street, Honolulu, manding corner of Fort and King streets, while the offices and 'salesrooms are lo- it has remained the premier hardware cated in a new concrete building on Ala- concern in Hawaii. The entire three- kea and Queen streets, erected recently story building is taken up with extensive for this purpose. Here are seen the dis- displays of every kind of hardware. One plays of the General Electric Co., of which floor, however, is given over to crockery Catton, Neill & Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian and kitchen utensils, while in the base- agents, as well as for the leading gas en- ment even a ship might be fitted out with gines, water wheels, steam plows, pumps, its hardware, cordage, and roping needs. condensers and tools manufactured in the This company is also agent for the Sher- United States. This is one of the oldest win-Williams house paints and represents engineering firms in Hawaii. many mainland hardware firms.

E. 0. Hall & Son Building, Fort and King Streets. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC

HOME FERTILIZING. their fertilizers are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Company. The The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company chemists analyze the soil and suggest the stores its fertilizers in the largest con- formulas. For the small planter this crete warehouse west of the Rockies. The company makes special fertilizers, and works of this company cover several acres the gardens of Honolulu are kept beauti- ful by the use of a special lawn fertilizer near Honolulu. The ingredients are pur- made by this company. Fertilizing alone chased in shipload lots, and the formulas has made Hawaii the garden of the Pa- adopted for the different plantations for cific. THE WORLD'S FIRST TELEPHONE EXCHANGE The Mutual Telephone Company of So rapid was the increase of subscribers Honolulu is the outgrowth of the first after the Automatic installation that it house to house telephone system in the became necessary to build and equip two world, installed in Honolulu in the late new exchanges, one in Kaimuki and the seventies! This company has lately led other at Kalihi. Moreover the wireless the world in telephone improvements, service to the other islands being under was the first to install a commercial control of the Mutual Telephone Com- wireless system of telegraphy (between pany, as well as the telephone systems the Hawaiian Islands), and is preparing of the islands of Maui and Hawaii, it has to link up its exchanges on the different become possible to send and receive mes- islands of the group by wireless tele- sages between the islands by phone, and phony, as soon as this mode of communi- even cable messages are usually sent out cation is perfected. over the phone before the official mes- The present Mutual Telephone Corn- sage is delivered. ?any was incorporated in 1883 and used Australia sent a commission to the old manual switchboard until 1909, Hawaii to study and report on the Hon- when it was reorganized and the Auto- olulu Automatic exchange, and has since matic telephone system installed, which adopted the• Automatic. At present the has proved the most satisfactory of any Inter-Island Wireless system is under lease to the Federal Government, but 4 the world, making it possible in cos- the Mutual Telephone Company is going mopolitan Honolulu for the many men of ahead with its improvements of service many Pacific races to call each other on each of the three larger islands : without having to strive with "Central." Oahu, Maui and Hawaii. THE MID-PACIFIC 13

Banking in Honolulu

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King streets, Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the United States Government.

The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has occupied its premises on the corner of Merchant and Kaahunanu streets since 1877. The operations of this bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands,' and the institution has ever beet closely identified with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M. Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and and J. L. Cockburn. On Dec, 31, 1917, the deposits of this bank amounted to $12,282,428.73. The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders the central bank of Honolulu, with a are closely identified with the largest capital, surplus and undivided profits business interests in the Territory. Its amounting to nearly a million and a half, directors and officers are men of ability, or more than the total of any other bank integrity and high standing in the com- in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own munity. The Company was incorporated magnificent building at the busiest busi- in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated Fort streets ; has a savings department doubling this capital. On June 30, 1917, and was organized in 1897. the capital of the Company was $200,000; The Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located surplus $10,000, and undivided profits on Fort street, is an old established finan- $53,306.75. It conducts a trust company cial institution. It draws on the princi- business in all its various lines with pal parts of the world, issues cable trans- offices in the Stangenwald Building, Mer- fers, and transacts a general banking chant Street, adjoining the Bank of Ha- business. waii. I4 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. Honolulu still relies for building ma- terial on the mainland. For many years the firm .of Lewers & Cooke maintained its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today the firm occupies its own spacious blocx on King Street, where every necessity needed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guaran- tees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and completed on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii ; so it is that one firm undertakes to supply material from the breaking of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hard- ware department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment. THE MID-PACIFIC 15

The Tourist's Hawaii

The Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as Moana and Seaside Hotels).

The Von Hamm-Young Co., Importers, Optical Institute is the most complete Machinery Merchants, and leading auto- place of its kind in Hawaii. The glasses mobile dealers, have their offices and store of visitors are quickly repaired, and those in the Alexander Young Building, at the of residents kept in order. corner of King and Bishop streets, and The Pacific Engineering Company, their magnificent automobile salesroom Ltd., with spacious quarters in the Yoko- and garage just in the rear, facing on hama Specie Bank Building, Honolulu, Alakea Street. Here one may find almost are engineers and constructors of build- anything. Phone No. 4901. ings of every kind, from the smallest pri- The Thompson Optical Institute is vate residences to the large and imposing just what its name implies, and occupy- business blocks. Being made up of some ing a location on Hotel Street opposite of the most prominent men in the Islands Bishop Park and the Young Hotel, it it is not surprising that it secures some is convenient to all. Here the eye is of the large and important contracts. tested and here all kinds of lenses are The Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu grOund and repaired, for the Thompson was the work of this firm.

Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937.

16 THE MID-PACIFIC

Round About Honolulu

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Street, stands at the head for flavor and Streets, is the actual center of life and keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- here you also get the tender meats and fresh 'vegetables of which an abundant section of the tram lines, the shoppers, supply is always on hand. Heilbron & business men, and tourists await their Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- cars, chatting at the open soda fountain, derful business until now the Metropoli- that is the feature of the Chambers Drug tan Meat Market is the central and popu- Store. Here the tourist or stranger is lar market place of Honolulu. Phone advised as to the sights of the city, and 3445. supplied with any perfumes, candies or Honolulu is so healthy that people drugs he may need during his stay. Cham- don't usually die there, but when they do bers' Drug Store is one of the institutions of Honolulu. Phone No. 1291. they phone in advance to Henry H. Wil- liams, 1146 Fort Street, phone number The largest of the very fashionable 1408, and he arranges the after details. shops in the Alexander Young Building, If you are a tourist and wish to be inter- occupying the very central portion, is that red in your own plot on the mainland, of the Hawaiian News Company. Here Williams will embalm you; or he will ar- the ultra-fashionable stationery of the range all details for interment in Hono- latest design is kept in stock. Every lulu. Don't leave the Paradise of the kind of paper, wholesale or retail, is sup- Pacific for any other, but if you must, let plied, as well as printers' and binders'. your friends talk it over with Williams. supplies. There are musical instruments of every kind in stock, even to organs Whatever you do, do not fail to visit and pianos, and the Angelus Player Piano the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King and this concern is constantly adding new otreet. Early morning is the best time features and new stock. The business for this, when all the multi-colored fish man will find his every need in the office of Hawaiian waters are presented to view supplied by the Hawaiian News Company and every nationality on the islands ig on merely on a call over the phone, and this parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the is true also of the fashionable society leading spirit and founder of the Oahu leader, whether her needs are for a bridge Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- party, a dance, or just plain stationery. tion of which the city is proud. The exhibit rooms of the Hawaiian News A monument to the pluck and energy Company are interesting of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, City Mill Company, of which he is Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. treasurer and manager. This plant at Its auto wagons deliver each morning Queen and Kekaulike streets is one of fresh from the oven, the delicious baker's Honolulu's leading enterprises, doing a bread and rolls consumed in Honolulu, flourishing lumber and mill business. while all the grocery stores carry Love's Bakery crisp, fresh crackers and biscuits THE SwEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- that come from the oven daily. Love's posite the Alexander Young, is the one Bakery has the most complete and up. to reasonably priced tourist restaurant. date machinery and equipment in the Ter- Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian ritory. singers and players, and here at every "Maile" Australian butter from the hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Metropolitan Meat Market on King prices the delicacies of the season.

• THE MID-PACIFIC 17

The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer companies, and has also acquired the Hcnolulu Lava Brick Company. It is making a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.

Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen store on Fort Street, will provide you Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed with these—a Chickering, a Weber, a rock used in the construction of the mod- Kroeger for your mansion, or a tiny up- ern building in Hawaii. They also main- right Boudoir for your cottage ; and if tain their own stables and drays. Draying you are a transient it will rent you a pi- in Honolulu is an important business, and ano. The Bergstrom Music Company, Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, phone 2331. and keep drays of every size, sort and de- scription for the use of those who require The best thing on ice in Honolulu is them. They also conduct 'a rock crusher soda water. The Consolidated Soda and supply wood and coal. Water Works Co., Ltd., 6oi Fort Street, are the largest manufacturers of delight- With the wood that is used for building ful soda beverages in the Territory. in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen Aerated waters cost from 35 cents a dozen Street, Phone 2105, have for generations bottles up. The Consolidated Co. are supplied the people of Honolulu and those agents for Hires Root Beer and put up a on the other islands ; also their buildings Kola Mint aerated water that is delicious, and paints. Their office is on Queen besides a score of other flavors. Phone Street, near the Inter-Island S. N. Com- 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at any pany Building, and their lumber yards store. extend right back to the harbor front, where every kind of hard and soft wood San Francisco's newest hotel is the grown on the coast is landed by the Plaza, facing Union Square, Post and schooners that ply from Puget Sound. Stockton Streets. It has a capacity of 600 guests ; European plan, $1.50 to $5.00 The city's great furniture store, that of a day ; American plan, $3.0o to $7.0o a J. Hopp & Company, occupies a large por- day. There are numerous combination tion of the Lewers & Cooke Block on sample rooms. C. A. Gonder, is the man- King Street. Here the latest styles in ager of the Hotel Plaza Company. home and office furniture arriving con- stantly from San Francisco are displayed The Hawaiian Fisheries Ltd., is propri- on several spacious floors. Phone No. etor of the Hawaiian Fisheries Market, 2111. Kekaulike Street, near Queen Street, Honolulu. This company sets the pace The leading music store in Hawaii is in conservation in Hawaii. It sells its fish on King and Fort Streets—the Berg- at low rates and cans any surplus also - strom Music Company. No home is com- using the parts usually discarded as fer- plete in Honolulu without an ukulele, a tilizer. It is a company of Americans piano and a Victor talking machine. The and Japanese who work together along Bergstrom Music Company, with its big conservation lines. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand I

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's throughout the Dominion for the benefit wonderland. There is no other place in of the tourist, for whom she has also the world that offers such an aggrega- built splendid roads and wonderful moun- tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The tain tracks. New Zealand is splendidly West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are served by the Government Railways, in every way more magnificent and awe- which sell the tourist for a very low inspiring than are the fjords of Norway. rate, a ticket that entitles him to travel Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic on any of the railways for from one to panorama of unrivalled beauty from end two months. In the lifetime of a single to end. Its hot springs and geysers in man (Sir James Mills of Dunedin, New the Rotorua district on the North Island Zealand) a New Zealand steamship com- have no equal anywhere. In this district pany has been built up that is today the . the native Maoris still keep up their fourth largest steamship company under ancient dances or haka haka, and here the British flag, and larger than any may be seen the wonderfully carved steamship company owned in American, houses of the aboriginal New Zealanders. with her ioo,000,000 population, or in There are no more beautiful lakes any- Japan with her 50,000,000 population. where in the world than are the Cold New Zealand is a land of wonders, and Lakes of the South Island, nestling as may be reached from America by the they do among mountains the rise sheer Union Steamship Company boats from ten thousand feet. Among these moun- Vancouver, San Francisco or Honolulu. tains are some of the largest and most The Oceanic Steamship Company also scenic glaciers in the world. In these transfers passengers from Sydney. The Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Government Tourist Bureau has commo- twelve thousand feet high. On its slopes dious offices in Auckland and Wellington the Government has built a hotel to which as well as the other larger cities of New there is a motor car service. Zealand. Direct information and pam- New Zealand was the first country to phlets may be secured by writing to the perfect the government tourist bureau. New Zealand Government Tourist Bu- She has built hotels and rest houses reau, Wellington, New Zealand.

THE MID-PACIFIC 19

New South Wales

1••■■•■•••■■••• ■•■••■••■■••■111...... 0.41.1y•■•■•■■••■•■••••■■111

New South Wales is a veritable treas- Caves, ranking among the most marvel-- ure ground for those in search of a health- Ions of the world's phenomena, as well as ful holiday. Its varied topography is re- numberless resorts by mountain, valley, sponsible for a wealth and diversity of lake, river and ocean, are easy Of access

GOVERNMENT TOURIST BUREAU Challis House, Sydney, N. S. W. scenery. Its climate is ideal, The nor- from Sydney, and possess, in addition to mal conditions throughout the year are natural charm, elaborate tourist facilities. bright blue skies and sunny days. Write for illustrated literature and Kosciusko, Australia's highest moun- tain, and the oldest known land surface tourist information to Fred C. Govers, on the globe, with its endless opportuni- Superintendent, Government Tourist ties for sport all the year round, Jenolan Bureau, Challis House, Sydney, N. S. W. )0 THE MID-PACIFIC

•••••••■■•■••■■■■■■ ■••■•■■•• 1 South Australia and Tasmania I

SOUTH AUSTIZ 1_LIA TASMANIA From San Francisco, Vancouver and Tasmania is one of the finest tourist from Honolulu there are two lines of fast resorts in the southern hemisphere, but steamships to Sydney, Australia. ten hours' run from the Australian main- From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- land. Between Launceston and Melbourne tralia, there is a direct railway line on the fastest turbine steamer in Australia which concession fares are granted tour- runs thrice weekly and there is a regular ists arriving from overseas, and no service from Sydney to Hobart. visitor to the Australian Common- The island is a prolific orchard country wealth can afford to neglect visit- and has some of the finest fruit growing ing the southern central state of tracts in the world. The climate is cooler Australia ; for South Australia is than the rest of Australia. The lakes and rivers are nearly all the state of superb climate and unrivalled stocked with imported trout, which grow resources. Adelaide, the "Garden City of the South," is the Capital, and there is to weights not reached in other parts a Government Intelligence and Tourist of Australia. Bureau, where the tourist, investor, or The Tasmanian Government deals settler is given accurate information, directly with the tourist. Hobart, the guaranteed by the government, and free capital—one of the most beautiful cities to all. From Adelaide this Bureau con- in the world—is the headquarters of the ducts rail, river and motor excursions to Tasmanian Government Tourist Depart- almost every part of the state. Tourists ment; and the bureau will arrange for are sent or conducted through the mag- transport of the visitor to any part of nificent mountain and pastoral scenery of the island. A shilling trip to a local South Australia. The government makes resort is not too small for the Govern- travel easy by a system of coupon tickets ment Bureau to handle, neither is a tour and facilities for caring for the comfort of the whole island too big. There is a of the tourist. Excursions are arranged branch office in Launceston performing to the holiday resorts ; individuals or the same functions. parties are made familiar with the in- The Tasmanian Government has an dustrial resources, and the American as up-to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 well as the Britisher is made welcome if William Street, next door to the New he 'cares to make South Australia his Zealand Government office, where guide- home. books, tickets, and information can be The South Australian Intelligence and procured. The address of the Sydney Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on office is 262 George Street, and Tasmania King William Street, Adelaide, and the also has its own offices in Bisbane and government has printed many illustrated Perth. books and pamphlets describing the scenic For detailed information regarding and industrial resources of the state. A Tasmania, either as to travel or settle- postal card or letter to the Intelligence ment, enquirers should write to Mr. and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will se- E. T. Emmett, the Director of the Tas- cure the books and information you may manian Government Tourist Dept., desire. Hobart, Tasmania. THE MID-PACIFIC 21

Two Prominent Corners in Honolulu

THE REGAL. THE CLARION Occupying one of the most prominent The Clarion is Honolulu's leading corners in the shopping district of Hon- men's habberdashery, but makes a spe- olulu the Regal Shoe Store, at the corner cialty of Phoenix silk hose, the best in of Fort and Hotel Streets, is a distinct the world, for men, women and children. credit to the American progress in these Full fashion women's Phoenix stockings, islands. The stock in this store has been as well as Phoenix silk stockings for carefully selected. men and children. Hartie's Good Eats is synonymous in Honolulu with the best there is to eat Old Kona Coffee is considered by con- at the most moderate price. "Hartie's" noisseurs to have, a delicious flavor all on Union Street caters to a limited num- its own, and is the real Hawaiian coffee. ber that can be perfectly served. Pre- The best of the annual crop is secured sided over by a woman who supervises and aged by the McChesney Coffee Com- each dish, it is the daintiest and most pany on Merchant Street, Honolulu, satisfying eating place in Honolulu, well phone 2717. Mail orders of pound to patronized by both residents and tourists. five-pound sealed cans are packed with the aged Kona Coffee and sent to friends Jordan's, on Fort Street, is the store or customers on the mainland. of bargains in silks, besides every kind of women's wear and notions. The store The Oahu Ice and Electric Company has just been remodeled and the finest supplies the Army in Honolulu at a display windows put in position, so that cheaper price than the United States Gov- they have become THE attraction on the ernment can buy ice in Alaska. The Waikiki side of Fort Street. There is works and cold storage rooms are in usually a sale in progress, for this oldest the Kakaako district, but a phone mes- store in Honolulu has become the most enterprising and up-to-date under a new sage to 1128 will answer every purpose, management that is all energy and judg- as the company has its auto delivery ment. trucks. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC

■■ ■■■■■■ ■■ ■ ■■■■■■ ■■■ ■ Am. ••■•••■••■•■■• ■••■■•-■..... • ••• • • • •• •• • •1 ..1■■•■••••• ••■■■■••■■• Life In Honolulu 1

The Honolulu Military Academy, un- agement of Miss Jessie Rae, whose ex- surpassed in its field, occupies splendid perience in London and America at the buildings and many acres of ground at head • of health sanitariums particularly Kaimuki. It possesses a battalion of fits her for the successful management of three companies instructed by U. S. a home hotel catering to the dainty. Army officers. The Academy depart- The Home of Linens in Honolulu is ment consists of preparatory, senior and maintained at the establishment of Fer- junior high schools. Accredited courses nandes and Correa, formerly Whitney preparatory for West Point, Annapolis and Marsh, in the very center of the shopping district on Fort Street. This is and mainland colleges. Campus of go the foremost children's and ladies' fur- acres. Major L. G. Blackman is presi- nishing house in Hawaii. dent of the Honolulu Military Academy. Under a new and progressive man- agement this well - known house is The Young Brothers have always extending its usefulness, still making, been the purveyors of equipment for however, a specialty of fine lingerie and shark hunting in the waters about Hono- children's clothing. Matrons find every lulu. They have special boats built for style in fashionable wear brought direct tuna fishing, and small launches for fly- from Paris and New York. It is here, too, that the Ladies' Home Journal pat- ing-fish shooting. The Hawaii Promo- terns are kept in stock. Fernandes & tion Committee will arrange for fishing Correa make a specialty of providing excursions, or this may be done by for what you wish, but it is best to spend phoning directly to The Young Bros., a little time examining the splendid ex- Limited, 3328. This company is en- hibit of linens that is always maintained gaged also in Towing and Freighting. in the Fernandes & Correa establishment. Greenbaugh, James & Co., Ltd., Com- The Quality Inn on Hotel Street, mission Merchants and Merchandise near Port, is aptly named, not quite a Brokers, at Merchant and Alakea Sts., restaurant, it serves dainty lunches and Honolulu, have had an experience of ten afternoon teas as well as light breakfasts. years in. Hawaii, and now this firm con- Its candies and soft drinks are the best, templates branching out as a Pan-Pacific and dealing directly with Rawley's trading concern, bringing the wares for which it has agencies to Hawaii from Dairy, its ice cream, eggs and milks are every part of the United States, ready pure and fresh almost hourly. For the on cable order to ship directly to any shopper there is no more enticing cafe part of the Pacific. in Honolulu than the Quality Inn. Stevedoring in Honolulu is attended Among the very best home hotels in to by the firm of McCabe, Hamilton and Honolulu, the Davenport on Davenport Renny Co., Ltd., 20 South Queen Street. Place is in the exclusive Punahou dis- Men of almost every Pacific race are employed by this firm, and the men of trict, in a situation ideal for the visitor each race seem fitted for some particular to the. Islands. The rates are two dol- part of the work, so that quick and effi- lars and a half a day, or special monthly cient is the loading and unloading of rates. The Davenport is under the man- vessels in Honolulu. THE; MID-PACIFIC 23

Honolulu for the Tourist

"Jeffs" is the word most familiar to One hardly realizes the immense re- every society leader in Honolulu. From sources of the grocery store of Henry the start "Jeffs" took its place as the May & Co., in the Boston Block on Fort high class woman's outfitter in Hawaii. street, unless one spends a couple of The large spacious store at Beretania and Fort streets lends itself splendidly hours taking stock of the domestic and to the displays direct, even now, from imported eatables and drinkables there Paris as well as from New York. sold. Not only the largest grocery Home designs are a specialty at store in the Territory, but the one enjoy- "Jeffs" It was "Jeffs" design for the ing the finest trade, Henry May & Co. Waikiki bathing suit that was adjudged by the vote of the people to be the pret- are righly called "The Housekeepers' tiest and most suitable bathing suit for Ally"—as housewives have learned to de- the tropics. pend on everything this firm sells. They Not only are the leaders of fashion in make a specialty of fine Kona (native) Hawaii outfitted at "Jeffs" but tourists Coffee and have installed a gas roaster and visitors quickly find their way to this and coffee mill to make this product most interesting exhibition of the latest ready for the customer. Every steamer fashion models of the American metrop- brings fresh supplies from the mainland olis. for customers—many of whom have The prices at "Jeffs" are in accord traded with Henry May & Co. for de- with war time purses. This house has its cades, the firm being now more than head office at 1170 Broadway, New sixty years in business. York, and the Honolulu branch is the dis- The oldest established Dry Goods tributing center for the entire Pacific. House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situated The Milton Realty Company, at 816 on Hotel Street near Fort. For over a Fort street, phone 4899, is a vigorous quarter of a century this store has held concern dealing in real estate, invest- an enviable reputation for high-class ments and loans. Its officers have been merchandise. The beautiful court dresses connected for years with the leading worn at the receptions and balls in the Trust Companies of Honolulu, or with days of the Hawaiian Monarchy were similar concerns on the mainland, and made by this firm. Then, as now, Sachs' with the friendly business connections was the rendezvous for ladies who de- that this experience insures the firm is sired the very best in Silks and Dress making rapid progress toward a front Fabrics, Tapestries, Draperies, Linens, place in its line of work in Hawaii. Laces and Millinery. If you have films, or need supplies, The Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak "The Blaisdell" is the newest and most Headquarters, Fort Street, develops and up-to-date hotel in Honolulu. It is run prints for tourists within a few hours. on the European plan, being situated in All photo supplies, films, film packs, the heart of the city, (Fort Street and plates, cameras, island scenes, photo- Chaplain Lane). It is near all the down- graphs, etc., always in stock. Develop- town clubs, cafes, and restaurants. The ing 4x5 plates or film packs, 70 cents a rates are moderate — running water in dozen; roll films, 6o cents a dozen ; print- every room. Public baths as wall as the ing, 70 cents. Fresh films packed in private, have hot and cold water. Tele- handy sealed tins for use in the tropics phones in all the rooms, elevator and without extra charge. pleasant lanais. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC I-- Progressive Honolulu 1

THE LIBERTY HOUSE THE B. F. DILLINGHAM CO., LTD., The Liberty House succeeds the firm The Insurance Department of The B. , of B. F. Ehlers & Co., which was estab- F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., represents all lished in Honolulu as far back at 1852, lines of insurance, being agents for a growing from small beginnings to be- number of the best and most reliable in- come the largest dry goods store in Ha- surance companies in America. waii. After an honored career under Few there are in all America who have the old name it bore for sixty-five years, not had friends and relatives benefitted on July 4th, 1918, the name was changed .through policies in the Aetna Life In- to The Liberty House, and under this surance Company, and affiliated com- title in future will be known. Hawaii's panies, the Aetna Casualty and Surety pioneer dry goods house. Co. and the Automobile Insurance Co. of The Liberty House is in fact a de- Hartford, Conn. These insure you in partment of the American Factors Co., case of accident, ill health, liability and Ltd. It conducts the retail dry goods even workingmen's compensation, while business of this concern and being backed your automobile is totally insured against by one of the greatest financial p- wers fire, theft, collision, loss of use or dam- in Hawaii, it can afford to carry the age of any kind to any part of the ma- largest stock and variety of dry goods chine. in the territory. In the matter of life insurance the B. Recently The Liberty House has been F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., has arranged to reconstructed ; its spacious windows on offer policies in the safest and surest Fort Street, really extensive stages, are American concerns, among those in used not only for remarkable displays of which it offers excellent policies are the dry goods and fashions, but also for West Coast San Francisco Iife Insurance patriotic displays, dioramas of the war's progress, or realistic settings illustrating Co. and the Providence-Washington In- the actual work of the Red Cross nurses surance Co. on the field. War Posters sent from the In fire insurance, the Hartford, Conn., Pan-American to the Pan-Pacific Union is perhaps the best known of American are displayed here as are exhibits from fire insurance companies, certainly it is the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, so that everyone stops at The Liberty one of the most solid and reliabe, as is House. the Proenix Fire Insurance Co., both of The people of Hawaii know The Lib- which concerns the B. F. Dillingham Co., erty House through all its various floors Ltd., represents in Hawaii. and departments, it is the first place to Life, fire and every kind of property attract visitors. This firm makes a insurance is underwritten by the B. F. specialty of ladies' apparel and of bring- Dillingham Co., Ltd. A generous portion ing the latest fashions to Hawaii. The year round silk and woolen suits, of its office space in the Stangenwald skirts, waists and all the wearing apparel Building on Merchant St., Honolulu, is of women are rushed through at fre- given over to the insurance department ; quent intervals from New York by Wells friends of the firm are invited to visit or Fargo Express, being only twelve to to ask for rates or information when con- fourteen days in transit, so that the fash- ions on Fort Street are only a few days sidering the placing of any kind of in- behind those of Broadway. surance.

THE MID-PACIFIC 25

■ -.1••••••••■•■••■••■•••■••■■••■•••■■•■■•••■•••■■•■•■•■■■••■■•••■••■••••••■■••■••■••••■••■■••■■■•■■•■•■■• 1■■••■••■••■•■•■■••••■•■•■■•• •1 The Home Hotels of Honolulu The Best of their Kind on the Pacific

•■■■■■■■••••••• •■•••••• The Land of the Lanai. The Colonial, palatial house and grounds, 1451 to 1473 Emma street, in the most beautiful section of the city within a few moments' walk of the business center or the hills, on the car line. Rates from $50 a month up, $3.00 a day ; perfect ho- tel service. Miss M. Johnson, Manager, Phone 2876.

The Romagoy, 1429 Makiki street, near Wilder avenue and the car. This luxur- ious home hotel is in the heart of the aristocratic quarter amid sub-tropical The Halekulani, hotel and bungalows, gardens, it has its own poultry farm. 2199 Kalia Road, is the famous old Hau The rates are $3.00 a day or $50 a month Tree homestead on the beach at Waikiki. up. Phone 3675. Lucille Romagoy, Clifford Kimball, manager. Rates, $3.00 Proprietress. a day, $75.00 a month. Phone 7760. Mrs. L. M. Gray's at Waikiki, 2221 Kalia The Donna, 1262 to 1286 Beretania St., Road, is life out under the Hau tree lanai phone 2480 ; rates $47.50 a month up, and on the beach, the best swimming at or $3.00 a day. This series of cottages, Waikiki. Spacious grounds surround bungalows and homes, in the heart of the buildings which are near the car the residence district, is on the direct line. Rates, $3.00 a day and $50 a month car line to the city or the beach, its up. Phone 7116. splendid management for years has made it known everywhere about the Vida Villa, Mrs. L. B. Evans, proprietor, Pacific. is on King street, a few moments by the car from the city or Waikiki. The The St. Elmo, 1065 Punchbowl Street, grounds about the cottages are park like is opposite the public library and the and spacious. The rates are from a dol- Palace, in specious shaded grounds, but lar and a half a day up, and from $35 a in the heart of the city, an ideal home month up. Phone 1146. for army and navy employes. Rates, The Macdonald, 1402 Punahou street, $35.00 a month. Phone 2027, Alice rates $2.00 a day or $50 a month, phone Heapy, Proprietress. 1113, is beautifully situated in a grove of royal palms near famous Oahu Col- lege, it has its own tennis court and is an ideal family hotel, near Wilder avenue and the cars to the city or to Waikiki. The Davenport, Davenport Place, phone 4032, Miss Jessie Rae proprietress. 26 THE MID-PACIFIC

.1•MI■■•■••■■••■•■■■•••■•■■•■■■•••••■••■■•■■••••••• •••••*• Entertainment In Honolulu I

The Island Curio The Hub is the reasonably priced cloth- Co. on Hotel St., ing store in Honolulu, Clifford Spitzer opposite the Alex. is manager, and for a decade has studied Young Hotel, is the supplying of men in Hawaii with Hawaii's o l d e s t, suitable clothing and men's furnishings. A new store has just been completed for largest and most the Hub, at 69-71 S. Hotel St., nr. Fort. reliable Hawaiian and South Sea on Fort St., Cur i o establish- The Office Supply Company, is the home in Hawaii of the Remington ment. D. A. Mc- Typewriter Co., and of the Globe-Wer- Namarra, Prop. nicke filing and book cases. Every kind of office furniture is kept in stock, as Ernest Kaai is known the Pacific round well as a complete line of office station- through his Hawaiian Ukulele boys who ary and every article that the man of have toured every land. In Honolulu business might need. he teaches the Ukulele, writes Hawaiian music and provides Hawaiian music and Wall, Nichols & Co. are the leading entertainment, his studio is in the Alex- magazine and toy men in the territory ander Young Hotel building, The Kaai of Hawaii, they conduct two stores on Glee Club, phone 3687_ King Street, one is the home of maga- zines, stationery and toys, the other of The Liberty, the Bijou and the Empire sporting goods and typewriters. At 67 are the three large theatres in Honolulu King Street, for office supplies, at the providing either film features or dra- King and Bethel Street store, musical in- matic performances. The Liberty is one struments and supplies. of the finest theatres in the Pacific, and is well worth a visit on account of its art The Baby Shop—Miss May Sutherland, collection alone. proprietress, is at 1190 Fort street, op- posite the Catholic Cathedral, here is The Pan-Pacific Gardens, on Kuakini carried a complete line of baby outfits, street, near Nuuanu Avenue, constitute handiwork for the child being a spec- one of the finest Japanese Tea Gardens ialty. Here the nursery is outfitted and immaginable. Here some wonderful the Baby Shop is well worth a visit from Japanese dinners are served, and visitors any one. are welcomed to the gardens at all times. Adjoining these gardens are the wonder- ful Liliuokalani gardens and the series of waterfalls.

Shark Hunting and Tuna fishing are Ha- waiian sports which Young Brothers ar- range for tourists and others. Phone 3328. 27 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Hawaiian Pineapple Planters' Association, with executive offices in the Kauikeolani building, Honolulu, has brought the canners as well as the plant- ers of pineapples together in Hawaii to maintain the world standard that has been the pride of the producers of Ha- waiian brands of canned pineapples. Suited by soil and climate, Hawaii from the first planting, began to produce pines that for canning and preserving purposes became the world standard of excellence, so that today Hawaii is bet- ter known on account of "Hawaiian Pine- apples" that are on almost every civilized table, than even for her ukulele and music. The men at the front are en- abled through the united work of the Hawaiian Pineapple Planters' Associa- tion to have the canned, or tinned in Europe, Hawaiian pines in the trenches. 28 THE MID-PACIFIC

FACTS ABOUT THE PHILIPPINES Provided by the Manila Merchants' Association

AREA Americans (outside of Army and 5,000 The total area of the Philippine Isl- Navy) 236,900 ands is 120,000 square miles made up as Filipinos 4,400 follows : Spaniards Sq. Mi. Other Europeans 1,500 • 16,600 Commercial forest 61,000 Chinese 5,500 Non-commercial forest 11,000 Filipino transients in Manila 1,900 Cultivated land 14,000 All others Grass land , 20,000 271,800 Unexplored and other smaller Total islands 14,000 CLIMATE The Philippine Islands have a mildly 120,000 Total tropical climate. The. nights are cool The cultivated lands include : and sunstrokes are unknown. The tem- Acres perature record for the past 30 years Rice 2,189,000 shows an average of -80°. The recorded Abaca (hemp) 1,236,000 death rate per 1000 whites in Manila for -Coconuts 680,000 1917 was 8.8 as compared with 16.5 for Corn 1,070,000 New York, 15 for San Francisco, 14 for Tobacco 145,000 Chicago, 18 for Glasgow, and 22 for Bel- 444,000 Sugar Cane fast. Maguey 76,000 COMMERCE 2,600 Cacao The exports of the islands for the cal- 2,000 Co f fee endar year 1917 amounted to $95,604,000 REAL PROPERTY of which $63,235,000 went to the United The assessed value (in U. S. currency) States. The imports for the same period of taxable real estate of the islands is as amounted to $65,797,000 of which $37,- follows : 621,000 came from the United States. Manila (15,577 parcels) $ 52,017,000 The principal articles of export were. Total real estate outside of Hemp $46,807,500 Manila 146,090,000 Stigar 12,277,500 Maximum tax rate Manila __11-/2 per cent Coconut Oil 11,409,000 Maximum provincial tax rate 7/8 per cent Copra 8,327,000 Allotted as follows : Tobacco (Mfd. and Unmfd.) 7,150,500 1/8 per cent Roads and Bridges. Maguey 2,348,000 1/4 per cent Municipal Prim. Schools. Embroidery 1,964,500 1/4 per cent Municipal, General. The principal articles of import were : 1/4 per cent Provincial, General. Cotton and manufactures of $18,789,500 There is no personal property tax. Iron and Steel 5,927,000 POPULATION Rice 5,390,500 The total population of the Philippines Wheat Flour 1,915,500 is estimated to be 10,000,000, of which Coal 1,538,000 about 900,000 belong to the non-Chris- Automobiles, parts of, and tian or uncivilized tribes. Manila has a tires for 1,540,000 population of 271,800, made up as fol- Illuminating Oil 1,339,000 lows : Meat Products 1,425,000