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ENGLAND anil Representatives in The National City Bank Chinese Branches BANQUE NATIONALE DE LA REPUBLIQUE D’HAITI (AFFILIATED WITH THE NATIONAL CITY BANK OF NEW YORK) Head Office: PORT AU-PRINCE, HAITI CITY BANK FARMERS TRUST COMPANY (AFFILIATED WITH THE NATIONAL CITY' BANK OF NEW YORK) Head Office: 22 WILLIAM STREET, NEW YORK Temporary Headquarters: 43 EXCHANGE PLACE '•y*' THE NATIONAL CITY COMPANY (AFFILIATED WITH THE NATIONAL CITY BANK OF NEW YORK) HEAD OFFICE OFFICES IN 50 LEADING 55 WALL STREET, NEW YORK AMERICAN CITIES Foreign Offices: LONDON . AMSTERDAM . GENEVA . TOKIO . SHANGHAI Canadian Offices: MONTREAL . TORONTO The National City Company, through its offices and affiliations in the United States and abroad, offers a world-wide investment service to those interested in Dollar Securities. LONDON OFFICE: 34 BISHOPSGATE, E.C. 2. THE VOL. VII, No. 2 WASHINGTON, D. C. FEBRUARY, 1920 The Palace of the Perricholi By JOHN M. CABOT, Secretary, American Legation, Santo Domingo charm and romance of eighteenth cen¬ usually see. Few travelers pass through this sec¬ tury Peru are for most of us a fascinating tion, and those that do, hurry on their way as fast and fantastic field but partly opened up by as a wildly careering automobile will permit. Thornton Wilder’s delightful book, “The Bridge Far down a miserable side street of this district of San Luis Key.” It will be a great disappoint¬ lies the old palace of the Perricholi. Few in the ment to many Americans who have wondered whether that novel was based on history to hear district can direct one to it. Its battered walls give that the bridge never existed. Furthermore, Mr. evidence of its former splendor and of two cen¬ Wilder has far too colorful a personality not to turies of neglect. The hideous barracks of the take literary license when it serves the purpose of Guardia Civil—the justly famous Spanish police— reflecting life in eighteenth century Lima. But rise on either side, to jeer at its fall from its the character of the Perricholi. which runs like a former high estate. Yet here, in spite of all that scarlet skein through Mr. Wilder’s entire book, time and neglect have done, is the once splendid is based on fact; and the quaint legends in regard palace given to the Perricholi by the Viceroy. to her are known to virtually all cultured Peru¬ At the gate one is met by a sentry who will get vians; in fact they have been the subject of a as guide another of the police -a man who seems recent moving picture made in Peru. to have absorbed something of the atmosphere of The Perricholi was born in the town of Huanuco, which lies on the eastern slope of the Andes; but the scene of her triumphs and of her disappointments was Lime : Lima, the City of the Kings, the most important place in Spanish South America, the seat of the V iceroy, his court, and the royal audiencia. Lima, has become a splendid modern city, clean, well-paved, and beautiful. But far from the centre of the city, across the Rimac, lies the old section of the town, broken-down, neglected, pathetic. The rough cobbles and the dirty shops of the district present a painful contrast to those Photo from John M. Cabot in districts which Americans FACADE OF PERRICHOLI PALACE 37 the place, and who, when you leave, will refuse a tip. On entering, one is first con¬ scious of the rushing of water, for on both sides of the house run important acequias, or irrigation ditches. The facade of the main building is a handsome, but not inspiring, example of rococo art, flanked by the hideous red side- walls of the police barracks. Only toward the entrance is there any¬ thing unusual, for there, sadly defaced and disfigured by the weather and ill-treatment are the paintings put there to remind the Perricholi of her beloved moun¬ Photo from John M. Cabot tains. GARDEN JORCH OF PERRICHOLI PALACE Through the tiled passageway, flanked by a broad stairway, we enter the garden behind the palace—a garden High in one tree is perched the summerhouse to which breathes to every corner the Peruvian love which the Perricholi used to retire by a rustic for colorful and perfumed flowers. The garden, staircase for meditation or for her afternoon too, is sadly neglected, but preserves perhaps siesta. One wanders along path after path, slowly, better than the palace its melancholy romance. The thoughtfully, impressed inevitably by the ancient cypress, the palm tree, and the fig furnish shade atmosphere of the place, by what once occurred to the flowers. In no Peruvian garden is much there, by a glamor not effaced by two centuries use made of grass plots; and here one sees nothing of neglect. There is the jasmine which surely but rose-bed after rose-bed, perhaps succeeded by scented the summer air as the Perricholi slowly a bed of dahlias, a pergola, or a summer house. wandered in the tranquil moonlight; there the fountain by which she must have rested; and there the wall at the end of the garden painted by the Viceroy to simulate a pathway to the moun¬ tains whither the Per¬ richoli ever hoped to go. And then one turns to the palace—one mounts the curious outside stair¬ case leading to the upper of the two generous ver¬ andas. Below lies the old fashioned garden, en¬ closed in its arched adobe wall; beyond, the sea of green extending to the edge of the plain which surrounds Lima, and then breaking upon the foothills of the Andes, Photo from John M. Cabot barren and austere be¬ IN THE PERRICHOLI GARDEN neath summer sun or (Showing painted pathzvay to the mountains) winter fog. There on the 38 Photo from John M. Cabot SUMMERHOUSE OF PERRICHOLI veranda is the shrine at which the Perricholi used to worship—a quaint spot with painted doors and a tiny sculptured crucifix. And within the palace, nothing—hare mud walls to show what lay beneath Photo from John M. Cabot the splendor of former times. One descends the TORRE-TAGLE PALACE, LIMA stairway to the entrance passageway, a wistful meditation playing upon the legends of the palace’s happier moments. The suggestion has been made that the Lima has become a splendid modern city, and were the Perricholi to return, she would find little JOURNAL might publish an interesting series congenial in it. The cathedral and the Torre-Tagle of articles if an officer at each post con¬ Palace, the two finest monuments remaining of tributed a brief article on the outstanding Viceregal days, have caught the spirit of modern feature of interest in that particular district. progress, and would rebuff her advances. To but Such feature might be either the important one place could she flee—to the Alameda de los local industry or native commodity for which Descalzos, once the favorite haunt of all the the place is famous; the natural scenery, nobility and beauty of Lima, now a solitude in the possibly of world renown; the ancient or midst of tenements and breweries. There, on a modern architectural splendors, which per¬ warm summer’s evening, she could again parade haps tourists visit from far and near; places up and down, watched by the ghosts of those who of outstanding historic interest; etc. had formerly admired and envied her. 39 Virginia House 4 t 'T T IRGINiA HOUSE," Windsor Farms, This latter structure was itself in process of y/ near Richmond, \ a., is constructed of demolition when Mr. and Mrs. Alexander W. materials from the ancient Priory of the Weddell, who were travelling in England at the Holy Sepulchre, known through many centuries time—September, 1925—purchased it from the as “The Priory,” and situated on the north side housewrecker, and shipped it to Virginia, thus of the historic city of Warwick, England. The preserving the historic building, if in an altered original structure was founded by the first Earl shape. of Warwick in 1125 to house a Society of Regular The present structure was built by Virginia Canons, instituted in imitation of one of the same workmen, and the design of the architect, Henry order established at the Holy Sepulchre in Jeru¬ Grant Morse, includes three portions of three his¬ salem. The Priory was “encouraged by Royal toric houses. The main body of Virginia House is Favor and enriched by Public Liberality,” and after the Tudor portion of the Priory; the wing subsisted and flourished over a long series of years. to the west of the main entrance door is a copy At the time of the dissolution of the monasteries of the principal part of the original structure of under Henry \ III it came into and remained in Sulgrave Manor, the English home of the an¬ the possession of the Crown, and was finally cestors of George Washington; the entrance tower granted to a Royal favorite, Thomas Hawkins.