John Pearson Drives a Series of Ancient Tracks Through Breathtaking

e halt alongside the This signalled to farmers when the time was to his fleet. But this isn’t just any Disco 1. It still, blue waters of a right to migrate their flocks of sheep from came out of the Lisbon Land Rover dealership mountain lake. Snow- the country’s Alentejo lowlands along these the same day in 1997 as José’s Camel flecked peaks behind tracks to higher pastures for spring and Trophy Edition Discovery. They’re just three us look majestic in summer grazing. This is a process known registration numbers apart and when it came the fresh, clear air, so as transhumance, in the area that became up for sale he just had to have it. Portugal’s Wstunning, almost surreal – they could be on famous for its wool and sheep cheeses, He’s expanding his Portugal adventure a painted backdrop for a Hollywood film set. known as Queijo Serra da Estrela. tour operation to include a fly-drive option – I’m on a track in Portugal’s Serra da Estrela I’m with LRO’s Portugal correspondent José with both Discos being available to rent. mountains. The sky is deep blue, the sun’s Almeida in his country’s highest mainland ‘Why don’t you fly out and join me for a shining and the scenery is magnificent. mountain range, which tops out at just under test drive in the Discos on some exciting new star attraction The routes we’re driving have been used 2000m (6560ft). It’s situated about two- routes I’ve discovered in the Serra da Estrela?’ John Pearson drives a series of ancient tracks through since ancient times. The name Estrela, thirds of the way up the country, towards the I quickly book plane tickets to Lisbon with meaning star in Portuguese, is believed eastern border with Spain. TAP, the country’s state-owned airline. breathtaking scenery in Portugal’s Serra da Estrela mountains to come from the springtime position of José, a part-time adventure tour operator Unusually for one of my adventures, I’m one of the brightest stars in the night sky and full-time Land Rover obsessive has added not camping or cooking campfire meals. PHOTOS: JÉRÔME ANDRÉ – Aldebaran, in the Taurus constellation. a late-model 300Tdi automatic Discovery 1 In fact, this is going to be a bit of a luxury

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gourmet tour because José has booked us into the Serra da Estrela mountains to our west tracks through pine forests. Some are rough some quality hotels and we will be dining out and the scenic Zêzere river valley to the east. and rocky, and we cross an ice-cold mountain at various restaurants he’s discovered. We’re going south, and loop around the stream. We’re in the northern part of the valley of Beijames, passing through the village mountains, in the Quinta da Taberna flatlands ‘We join a track of Verdelhos, before joining a track that climbs at 1000 metres (3280ft). This area is famous Days 1 and 2 through an area rich with oak trees. Then for growing rye for breadmaking – no other that takes us Lisbon to Belmonte and Penhas da there’s a steep, loose rock-covered descent cereals will grow successfully at this altitude. along the spine Saúde, Covilhã to a hairpin bend, the surface as slippery as We reach the Mondego river then loop walking on marbles. We ease the Discos down around towards Sameiro and Penhas da of a series of hills, Highlight: Burel factory, Jewish in first gear and low-range. Saúde. We’re behind schedule and darkness museum and a castle After the hairpin we join a track that takes has fallen. Yet it’s not a problem because with boulders us along the spine of a series of hills, with there’s no light pollution up here and the all around’ After driving to Heathrow airport in my Epsom large boulders liberally splattered all around. sky is wonderfully bright with stars over the Green Discovery 2, my partner Pat and I fly We climb to 1137 metres (3730ft) through mountains. Now, which one is Aldebaran? to Lisbon and meet José and photographer a pine forest before descending into the It’s cold and as we join the tarmac Jérome André, then climb into the Disco 1 – town of Manteigas for an excellent lunch of there’s snow as we climb towards our which is also Epsom Green. traditional local dishes at the Hotel Berne. accommodation, the Pousada Serra da We’re heading north-east to Belmonte, on After lunch, José has arranged for us to visit Estrela. This extensively refurbished former the edge of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park. the nearby Burel woollen mill. Built back in health sanitorium is located near the Penhas We stay at the delightful Pousada Convento the 1960s, this used wool from local sheep to da Saúde – literally translated as the cliffs of de Belmonte, a hotel that’s been built around produce garments and blankets. It closed in health. Saúde is also what the Portuguese say a 13th century Franciscan convent. 2006, but re-opened as a new company three when having a beer – their version of cheers. Next morning we take a look around years ago and is now successfully producing And we’ll be saying it shortly when sampling Belmonte’s 13th century castle, which is premium-quality woollen and felt goods. The a beer and some tasty local food at the nearby famous for being the birthplace of Pedro Burel material was traditionally used by local Varanda da Estrela restaurant. Álvares Cabral, the man who discovered Brazil. shepherds and is reputed to be showerproof Belmonte has the largest Jewish community and exceptionally warm in bad weather. in Portugal so we have a guided visit to its The factory is a wonderful place for lovers Day 3 Museu Judaico (Jewish museum). of old machinery like me. Some of these looms Penhas da Saúde to Penhas da Then we head to Vale Formoso, where we are more than 100 years old, and it’s a treat Saúde loop, via Folgosinho join our first mountain track. It’s sandy and to walk into the cacophony of noise – with deeply washed out in places. Then it becomes the machines whirring and clattering as they Highlight: Breathtaking scenery rocky as it climbs steeply through Spanish operate at remarkable speed. brooms and eucalyptus and mimosa trees. We Then we head north-east through the The next morning, after a short drive on reach 1046 metres (3430ft), where we can see peaceful magnificence of a series of mountain tarmac we turn north-east along a track that

B-looming marvellous Bog-standard Disco 1 old mill technology was never fazed

No left turns here please José

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JP wasn’t bowled NEED TO KNOW over by this boulder ● Where we stayed: Pousada Convento de Belmonte (below), hotel tastefully built onto a former convent near Belmonte, conventodebelmonte.pt.

Pousada Serra da Estrela, Covilhã. Former health sanitorium converted into hotel, JP takes in the radar pousadas.pt. tower at the top of H2otel hotel and Aquadome, Unhais da the Serra da Estrela Serra near Covilhã. Hotel with thermal health spa, various pools, massages, physiotherapy, gym and much more, h2otel.com.pt. Hotel da Estrela, Lisbon. Quirky small hotel named after the district, not the mountains. Schoolhouse theme, reflecting a former role of the elegant Condes de Paraty palace it occupies, hoteldaestrela.com. ● Campsites: campingportugal.org lists many sites throughout the country. ● Food: Try the Queijo Serra Estrela, the local cheese made from sheep milk. Suggested main courses: cabrito assado no forno (oven- baked kidgoat) and bacalhau à lagareiro (cod with potatoes and olive oil). ‘We’re shaking our bellies through an area that looks like an explosion in a granite factory’ José breathes in when visiting Alvoco da Serra Restaurants visited: Hotel Berne, Manteigas, hotelberne.com. Varanda da Estrela, Penhas da Saúde. serra da estrela GOUVEIA runs along the eastern side of the 13km Vale Folgosinho, near Gouveia. The meal at this metres (4347ft) above sea level. The Mondego Restaurante O Albertino, Folgosinho, near do Zêzere, Europe’s largest glacial valley. The acclaimed restaurant is an absolute feast. loops around between the Serra da Estrela Gouveia, oalbertino-folgosinho.com. Serra da Estrela has seven glacial valleys in all. We’re soon off-road again, shaking our and the Serra do Caramulo, reaching the Restaurante Churrasqueira Serrana. FOLGUSINHO There’s some scarily thick ice on the track bellies through an area that looks as if there Atlantic some 227km (141 miles) away from ● Legal rights of way? Portugal has where it narrows past a rock face, with a sheer was an explosion in a granite factory. There here at Figueira da Foz.

thousands of kilometres of non-tarmac tracks. N17 drop to our left. I’m trickling the Discovery are some interesting rock crawls that require N231 SÃO N232 The only restrictions are if it’s a private track, MARTINHO along as close as possible to the cliff wall on some of the rocks to be arranged to enable us N18-1 which will usually have a barrier across the M522 the right. As we go further along the valley to take the Discos through in one piece. Day 4 and 5 M1124 entrance, natural parks or in areas of high fire VALE DE AMOREIRA the scenery becomes ever more breathtaking. Then we drive through a forest area, Heading back to Lisbon SEIA risk during the summer where there are legal N232 There’s the Hollywood backdrop I mentioned eventually climbing through the tree line onto restrictions/closures – look out for Acesso SÃO ROMÃO earlier, the valley to one side and myriad open mountainside with immense views. Highlight: Air force radar towers N17 SABUGUEIRO SAMEIRO N232 Reservado signs (not to be confused with the M513 MANTEIGAS boulders perfectly placed by nature’s giant Apart from the dramatic scenery, another M501 proliferation of red signs saying Zona de Caça hand. The still blue waters of the lake looking attraction of Portugal’s mountain tracks is I’ve previously been to the tower at the LAPA DOS VALE Associativa or green Área de Não Caça, which DINHEIROS N339 inviting, but it’s icy cold. Nonetheless, it helps their length. These tracks can be 10, 15 or highest point of the Serra da Estrela, near VALE DO VERDELHOS M501 FORMOSO are for hunting/no hunting). ZEZÉRE M502 make a perfect photo location. more miles, zig-zagging up mountainsides, the ski resort. In fact, José and I were lucky ● Which maps? Paper Maps from Military BELMONTE Further on, a boulder has crashed down transporting you along the edge of a valley, enough to be invited to climb inside one of N231 Geographical Institute of Portugal (igeoe.pt) onto the track, but we can just squeeze by before plunging down again. the former Portuguese air force radar towers N338 M501 are available in 1:25,000. They cost 10 euros ORJAIS with some careful spotting from José. I’m impressed with the Disco 1’s capability. that is now used as a base by the GIPS (Grupo each and there are 632 maps in total. PARQUE After the town of Manteigas, we head It’s bog standard, shod with Goodyear AT/S de Intervenção Protecção e Socorro) first- LORIGA NATURAL DA ● How we got there: London Heathrow to SERRA DA north, reaching a series of tracks that zig-zag mild all-terrain tyres. It delivers plenty of grip response rescue team of the GNR (Guarda ESTRELA TEIXOSO Lisbon with TAP Airline, flytap.com. Return A23 steeply up pine forest-covered mountain and is perfect in the conditions we encounter. Nacional Republicana – the national guard). SERRA DA flights from £120. ESTRELA PENHAS CANHOSO N18 slopes. These forestry commission routes were It even impresses as we cross a ridge section This elite force of mountain rescue specialists DA sAÚDE ● This trip was supported by Turismo ALVOCO RE created in the 1940s and 1950s and have that alternates between well-drained sand uses a fleet of Land Rover Defender 110s for DA SERRA COVILHA de Portugal, the national tourist board. N231 cobblestones on their acute hairpin bends. and slippery mud, before we hit the N232. its duties. They say that nothing else will do. Visitportugal.com RIO ZEZÉ CM1204 N18-3 We pass by more rye fields on our way to We stop for some fresh mountain water Climbing inside their tower base took us to UNHAIS DA SERRA our lunch stop at restaurant O Albertino in at the source of the river Mondego, at 1425 over 2000 metres (about 6560ft).

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‘I’ve taken it over rocks, mud and sand, even ice and snow, but not once has it failed to get through’

Our photographer Jérome hasn’t been here we climb, we can see the snow-capped Estrela more testing, but the Discovery 1s just keep on before, so we detour to the summit, looking range. It’s a bit dull and cloudy now, which is a finding grip. out over as much of the vast, rugged terrain shame, but it’s still worth the drive up here. We take a few minutes at the top to savour we can see through today’s clouds before A tree across the track delays us, but José’s the big views we couldn’t see very well descending the N339 past a series of lagoons folding saw makes easy work of it and we yesterday – and it is all really lovely. Our final that are used for a hydroelectric plant. progress through more hairpins to the summit hotel is the quirky, modern Hotel da Estrela in At the town of Seia we visit the Centro at 1340 metres (4396ft). Downwards is even Lisbon, which was once a schoolhouse. de Interpretação da Serra da Estrela for an more technically demanding, with some loose It’s been another great driving adventure educational look at the flora and fauna of the rocky sections and deep washouts to straddle. through stunningly beautiful scenery. mountains. Then we drive to Loriga for lunch We’re booked into the H2otel hotel and We’ve also visited a selection of fascinating before heading south on the N231. Soon we Aquadome – the only mountain hotel and Spa attractions and enjoyed some of Portugal’s turn off the road on to a series of fire access in Portugal – at Unhais da Serra near Covilhã. fine food and accommodation. tracks that were carved high into the white Here we sample the indoor and outdoor The tracks José found for us have been a granite on the north side of the valley a few pools, steam rooms and sauna. José has also good mix of all-weather terrain, with some years ago. The track provides great views over arranged for us to experience some of the technical sections to test us. The Disco 1 coped the Vale de Alvoco, another one of the Serra treatments available in the thermal spa part well. I’ve taken it over testing rocks, through da Estrela’s glacial valleys. of the complex. I get a massage, which is quite mud and sand and even ice and snow, but not There are tricky technical rock sections, with relaxing once I overcome the embarrassment once has it failed to get through. big white boulders that remind me of Scottish of wearing skimpy plastic pants. I assume José will be fitting out both Discos with mountain streams. Then we descend a rough these are to avoid my own swimming trunks fridges, tools and recovery kit, but otherwise track with numerous hairpin bends and steep being contaminated by the massage oil, but they’ll remain in standard trim. They’ve proved drops to the side that takes us to Alvoco da the massage lady doesn’t speak English. that you don’t have to have expensively Serra. Some exceptionally narrow cobbled After our stop at the spa hotel we should kitted-out vehicles to see some of Europe’s streets – which necessitate folding in the door be heading straight back to Lisbon. But as finest scenery. mirrors to get through – lead us to its historic yesterday’s weather turned dull and today is Thanks to Ricardo Pereira da Silva and Roman bridge over the Alvoco river. bright with clear blue skies, we detour back Turismo de Portugal, the national tourist We scale another track, first getting some up the last section of mountain tracks. Driven board, who helped with this adventure. special views back over the village and then, as in reverse, the loose rocky section is even Visitportugal.com LRO

FANCY TRYING PORTUGAL? Jose (right) is on hand to help you get the José Almeida offers several types of tours most out of Portugal through dreamlandrover.com. He does a small number of guided trips, or you can go it alone and he provides info, routes, schedules, places to stay and eat, and he will rent you the vehicles. He will also help with contacts, booking accommodation and emergency help with medical or vehicle problems. Prices vary, depending upon the adventure and number of people taking part. UK companies offering guided Portugal adventures include: onelifeadventure.co.uk, atlasoverland.com and waypoint-tours.com.

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