ROBERT ANIĆ/PIXSELL INSTAGRAM*

Spring in ’s step How do we know it’s spring in the city? When there are no free terrace spots for long sun-soaked coffee dates with friends – native Zagreb-style. Of course, there are al- ways other options, like laying in the park or strolling the streets. The official spring welcome comes late March, the annual Festival of Lights (find out more on Page 3). To catch more springtime fun across the city, read through the other pages of #ZagrebForYou’s spring edition.

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* Zagreb was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr ZAGREB’S SIGNATURE FIRST PLANE TREES MINUTE The first 220 were planted long ago, in 1872, creating What else if not coffee? Zrinjevac (aka Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square). The row Coffee culture is one of Za- of plane trees at Zrinjevac is one of Zagreb’s most greb’s top attractions, but popular and recognizable places, and planes have it takes a while to learn the since been a green space signature of Zagreb. The ropes. It’s an everyday ritual, last count puts their number at 8947. usually done at the same cafe. While there are more maple, birch and linden trees, the planes’ big crowns So start now. Check out the and characteristic trunk marks best-known coffee strips, Bo- make them stand out. The widest govićeva or Tkalčićeva streets, Zagreb plane, two meters in Flower square or Dežman diameter, stands at the crossing passage, and pick your haunt. of Selska street and Prilaz Now keep going there during Baruna Filipovića. your stay – and you’ve got it.

WORD Svjetlo (Sv-ye-tloh) light, Licht. luz, lumière, luce The* Zagreb plane, known to botanists as Platanus x hispanica Münchh, is a North American and Asian hybrid. Planes have been planted since antiquity, and can live up to 2000 years. ZAGREB WHAT SUPERHEROES MONOVIEW WHERE Catch Zagreb WHEN through its štikleci THE GOURMET You created a unique FEAST IS HERE Zagreb souvenir. Why During the 18th Restau- postcards? "Sliver of rant Week (March 15–24), Zagreb" is a six-card treat yourself to a proper A DYNAMITE set that doubles as a feast without paying a SPRING FOR SOCCER FANS mini collection of štik- premium. A three-course Winter lasted half a century. Almost no leci, stories inspired by lunch/dinner comes one remembers that spring in 1970 real-life situations or at 100/125KN and the when Dinamo played Schalke. This was details from Zagreb’s choice of restaurants the last time Zagreb’s soccer club streets. At the same is dazzling. Prime your played springtime European matches. Lana Kovačević, time, the cards are clas- palate with a happy That is, until this generation and this journalist and author sic postcards which, spring – Dinamo is now in Europa of innovative hour cocktail in hotel postcard-souvenirs along with a personal bars across Zagreb. Use League’s final stages. Dinamo fans have fervently awaited spring, the message, contain a #TRklik for a chance to stadium is sold out, the bleachers are story from Zagreb. win a meal. booming, concerts and exhibitions are Each postcard has a code that users can scan @tjedanrestorana.com being organized, and a special Dinamo with a cellphone to reveal the exact location beer has been produced. Fingers and street they’re reading the story on, and A SNEAK PEAK crossed that the next time won’t be in so they themselves become a character in a INTO THE THEATER another half a century. štiklec. This code enables the set to become Croatian National The- @gnkdinamo.hr a tour – no guide and schedule required. So ater is one of Zagreb’s why exactly postcards? As a reminder of most iconic buildings. going back to basics… Peep into its intriguing How do tourists react to this souvenir history, hidden passag- and where can they find it? They love es and boxes during a them! The cards are available in English and special one-hour tour currently sold at Drinkoteka on Skalinska (March 30, 11am–3pm street. at every hour). Listen to Top five Zagreb souvenirs? I’d give the same the stories told by actors ANJA MUTIĆ answer for all five – the Šestine Umbrella. themselves. Get your writes for BBC Travel, the Washington The Šestine neighborhood’s motifs are the tickets at the box office Post and the New York Times. basis of Zagreb and I believe that through by March 29. Follow her at @everthenomad them, the city could promote and define a @hnk.hr recognizable and unique souvenir, which we don’t have yet. BOOT UP, The dos & don’ts For first-time city visitors, I recommend... BREATHE IN, RUN of spring Can I say – my postcards? :) But alright, if If you need a good they can’t make the list, then I recommend spring detox, outdoor love to witness Zagreb’s coffee. The coffee-drinking running is the name of Ichange of seasons, but partic- MY POSTCARDS ritual, which is above all an the game. Choose from ularly the shift in mood. When experience in Zagreb, is a the upcoming races: Mi- the sun comes out, it seems we ARE A UNIQUE chance to taste and listen nus Zwei Cener (8km) in all suddenly have fewer reasons PERSONAL to the city, its people, its (April 6, 11am, to complain. Problems seem spirit… And then make info @utrka.com) and infinitely smaller when you’re EXPERIENCE, sure to visit , Hendrix half-marathon sipping your espresso under BUT ALSO A the house of Marija Jurić along the Sava (April 7, willow trees at a sidewalk café Zagorka, the entire Upper 11am, info @sljeme.run). bathed by sunshine. ZAGREB TOUR Town, the Grič Tunnel, the @sljeme.run). hrow in a little aromathera- ... Tpy into the mix, with cherry For everyone else, don’t DUST OFF YOUR (GRAND) blossoms, lilacs and magnolias miss... Ice cream at Vincek, MOTHER’S CLOTHES diffusing their sweet floral cock- štrukle (a cheesy pastry tail. Look around and notice the dish) on Skalinska Street, knedle (plum people at the surrounding tables dumplings) from Oktogon, beans from – jackets off, sunshades and Sljeme... And definitely a walk through smiles on, more laughter echoing . down the streets. Spring in Zagreb is best... Definitely at Look up at the sky and take in Zrinjevac Park. This is where spring comes the spotless blue skies. Make it with the best games of tag, strolling, falling to the markets and see the stalls in love, resting and recharging. laden with wild edibles. Order an omelet with freshly picked asparagus. ZAGREB 2.0 Don’t forget your umbrella; rains If you’re a fan of vintage can come suddenly – and heavily. An app with inside intel fashion, head to the Don’t miss aimless wanders around Zagreb’s verdant parks. othing beats an insider showing you (until May 19) to see the Don’t stay for just one day; you’ll Naround their city. Enter Zagreb Be There, fab exhibition Fashion miss too much spring fun. an app that comes as close as it gets. It’s free, and Clothing in Zagreb eel the fresh buzz, the re- expertly curated and fun to use, offering you in the 1960s. You’ll get Fawakening, the new spring a choice of five routes, with themes ranging a unique insight into the in your step. Breathe it all in. from street art and craft beer to great Croats. most transformative and Remember it. Take it home. From discovering Zagreb’s unique Solar prolific fashion era and TIP: Stroll around the Zagreb System to unearthing the city’s hidden gems learn about famous Croa- Botanical Garden for a fragrant that few locals know about, it lets you see the tian clothing brands. whiff of its 5,000 plant species real Zagreb. Just download on your iOS or @mgz.hr coming back to life. Android – and off you go. M. MIHALJEVIĆ/TZGZ

FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS ZAGREB SHINES IN ALL ITS GLORY

ove over museums, it’s all about light art this play with light, using buildings, monuments, squares, MMarch. For five days, March 20–24, Zagreb will promenades and even the night sky as their canvas. shimmer with its annual Festival of Lights. Now in its 23 light installations (including three from China) at third year – and extended by one day due to popular 20 locations all around the Upper Town (daily from demand – this stunning spectacle celebrates light 6pm to 11pm) will honor spring as the main theme, a art at its most creative and welcomes spring at its symbol of growth and awakening. Here are some of most luminous. Croatian and international artists the highlights. For more, go to festivalsvjetlazagreb.hr.

1. Magic Forest 4. Loves me, loves me not QUIZG Wander through the gor- Remember the old children’s game of geously lit up tunnel turned plucking petals and whispering: Loves Questions magical forest, with re- me, loves me not? See the fluttering 1 The Golden Bull, the splendent plant and animal lights of flower petals and find out if he kingly edict that shapes. or she loves you – or not. established Zagreb, was issued in: 2. Cloud Pergola (Mathema- 5. Aquastreet a) 1094 tized Cloud) Take in the magical sight of an ordinary b) 1242 On display in Croatia for the street turned into the rippling surface of c) 1306 first time after its presenta- water, symbolizing the source of all life. tion at the Biennale 2018 in 2 The ’s twin Venice, this installation by 6. Dream Playground towers aren’t even. How much architects Alisa Andrasek A children’s playground becomes a taller is the north one? and Bruno Juričić math- joyful fantasy, with constantly changing a) 4 centimeters ematically captures the colors, children’s favorite games and fun b) 7 centimeters process of cloud formation light effects. using site-specific weather c) 11 centimeters The courtyard of 2 data. Zagreb City Museum 3 Zagreb’s Botanical Garden has 5000 different species. 3. Honeycomb Which is the oldest tree Catch this 4D illumination 6 Opatička species? of a honeycomb, a symbol The playground at Street a) Linden of spring and the nature Dubravkin Put 5 b) Plane awakening yet again. c) Oak

Answers 1 b) Croatian-Hungarian King Bela IV issued the edict November 16, 1242. The edict is held in the Croatian State Archives treasury. Vranyczany 2 a) The north tower is 108.2 meters Plateau tall. The south tower stands at 108 meters and 16 centimeters. The 3 north holds five bell towers, while 4 Gradec the south has three. Plateau 3 c) The European oak tree is about 200 years old. Maksimir Park has 1 an even older 600-year-old oak, The central nicknamed Granpa. part of Grič Tunnel COOL

TURE ANDREA PISAC Global anthropologist and Zagreb MBZ, MUSIC writer with a twist. Follow her at BIENNALE ZAGREB, @travelhonestly.com will be held for the 30th time from April Honestly, 6–13. The festival, happening since find your Zagreb 1961, offers a diverse program featuring hidey-hole symphony orchestras, ’m a firm believer that everyone chamber ensembles, Ishould have a hidey-hole in their contemporary dance city. That little corner where you can performances and escape the crowds or lousy weather is electronic music. More your imaginary safe place, only better info @mbz.hr – because it actually exists. And speaking of lousy weather... Zagreb spring is as whimsical as it gets. Yes, the blossom is out, and the sunshine is intoxicating. But just you wait... there’s a gust of wind or a barrage of rain to every ray of sun. Which is why you need a retreat. For me, nothing is as cosy as a friend’s home. If you think you have no MAKSIM MRVICA, friends in Zagreb, let me prove your the famous Croatian otherwise. In Masarykova 21, you pianist, will perform at can visit the home of famous Zagreb Lisinski Concert Hall on architect Viktor Kovačić and see the March 30. Mrvica will original interior from 1908 (Thu, be in Zagreb as part 10am–6pm only). of his world tour. He f the weather turns bad on a Tues- will premiere his new Iday, then head to the Memorial repertoire, including space of Miroslav and Bela Krleža works by Coldplay, John (Krležin Gvozd 23). You’ll quickly Legend and Game of make friends with the specter of Thrones. More info Croatia’s most renowned writer and @lisinski.hr his actress wife. Let this time-travel through different styles of interior design take you to the 1980s. Check out the Museum of the 80s in Radiće- va 34 (open all week) where you can conjure up the look and feel of someone’s 80s home. h, and if it's only a short shower, Ofind shelter inside one of many 80 YEARS OF THE attractive passages in Zagreb, such as MEŠTROVIĆ PAVILION Oktogon or Harmica. will be celebrated through March, with Tip: visit Atelier Meštrović where Cro- everything the famous atia’s top sculptor worked and lived – sculptor has left to you’ll be retreating to an 18th-century Zagreb, like the Well palace, furnished in the Art Deco style. of Life by the Croatian National Theater or the interior of Saint Mark’s Visit the Croatian Church. The Meštrović N Atelier on Mletačka cradle of street is open for visits. More info farming @mestrovic.hr Barely a 60km north 90 min of Zagreb, Križevci from Zagreb ASK, AN ANARCHIST is a small town with BOOK FAIR, will be a long history, dating held in AKC Medika back to the early Middle Ages when the first weekend of it flourished as a market hub. Check April. The fair has been out its agriculture institute from the gathering anarchists for Austro-Hungarian era, built back 15 years straight. More in 1860; it includes an impressive info @attack.hr homestead with pastures, animals and a small dairy factory. Don’t miss MORE INFO buying fresh cottage cheese and cream in their shop.

Tip: Go hiking to the nearby Kalnik mountain and enjoy the local version of štrukli at the Kalnik hut. Nature-culture-nature: a perfect spring layering Zagreb's unique Lower Town promenade, the Green Horseshoe, is a U-shaped network of the city’s prettiest parks and squares. Follow this layout and you'll quickly get Zagreb. Now, if you focus only on its western flank, you can create a fabulous spring outing. Start in the Botanical Garden, sprinkle your route with lots of culture, including customary coffee break and end deep in the semi-wild Tuškanac forest.

Ban Jelačić square The Faculty of Law N Founded in 1776 by the Empress Maria Theresa, Tuškanac forest this is among the oldest At the top of Frankopanska law schools in the entire street, an inconspicuous entry southeast of Europe. The leads to Dežman passage. This building was designed in pedestrianized alley is lined with 1877 in the neo- chic cafes but the best thing is Renaissance style. The that it opens up to Tuškanac History of Croats, Dežman forest and its network of quiet Meštrović’s famed passage leafy trails. Check out the sculpture, stands in romantic Dubravka's Path and front. walk all the way to the Cmrok meadow. The Well of Life Kavkaz coffee house Contemplate life next A legend among to this fountain by Zagreb’s coffee houses, sculptor Ivan Meštrović, Kavkaz has been 'home' which depicts constant to artists and change in a unique intellectuals for the last impressionistic style. 100+ years. When it briefly closed, locals couldn’t wait for its Museum of reopening. Arts and Crafts Designed by Croatian Hermann Bollé, the National Theater grand building in The unveiling of HNK in historicist style is one 1895 was such an of the first important event that even purpose-built Emperor Franz Joseph I edifices. Since 1880 attended it. Designed by the Museum has been famed Viennese preserving traditional architects Fellner and crafts and arts. Helmer, HNK has been a potent symbol of the Croatian identity and culture.

Ethnographic The brick beauty Museum This classy landmark Founded in 1919, dates back to 1884 and the Museum holds today houses the Croatian more than Sokol (sports society), 80,000 items of Kolo (singing society) and Croatia’s folklore the Croatian Drama heritage, Academy. covering three distinct regions: Pannonian, Dinaric and Adriatic. Marko Marulić The statue of Marko Marulić, known as the father of Croatian literature, was Croatian State erected in 1999. It’s colossal Archives and protective, just like Don’t miss this Marulić was of the Croatian gorgeous showcase of language. Art Deco. Designed by Croatian architect Rudolf Lubynski in 1913, it originally Botanical Garden housed The National Unwind in this tranquil hideaway and University Library. where you can stroll among more than Today it’s home to the 5,000 plant species. Make sure to grab a Croatian State bench seat among an English-style Archives, which has arboretum with lilly-covered ponds. several collections open to the public.

THE MOST USEFUL CARD With Zagreb Card, tourists get free transport and access to six attractions, plus ticket discounts for more than 80 locations. The daily card is 98KN, a three−day card is 135KN. A ride on the funicular is included. @zagrebcard.com N GO UNDERGROUND – TO PARK LAST Pedestrian zones and bike trails around Zagreb’s ful in Europe ten years ago. Shopping centers and MINUTE city center are on the rise, and parking spaces are some hotels also have garages. Three more are going underground – literally. There are more and being planned, underneath the Archaeological A selfie that never fades more subterranean parking garages – ten have Museum, the Croatian National Theater and the For a lasting memory of been built in the past 20 years. Zagreb has seven Strossmayer Square. Zagreb, take a one-of-a- underground parking lots with 2612 spots total. kind selfie. Climb up to the The Tuškanac garage was voted the most beauti- Strossmayer Promenade in Kaptol Center – the Upper Town and search 2 floors, 512 spots for a man on a bench en- Lang Square – 5 floors, 305 spots joying a wow view of the city. This is the Croatian Tuškanac – 4 floors, 496 spots poet Antun Gustav Matoš, Zagreb’s most photo- Kvaternik Square – 3 floors, 353 spots graphed sculpture. For a perfect selfie, join him on the bench, lean against Importanne Galleria – him or fall into his lap. Flower Square 4 floors, 500 spots – 5 floors, 292 spots 4am

Petrinjska Street – YOUR PARTY 3 floors, 134 spots HEARTY WEEKEND Importanne Center – 2 floors, 500 spots DESTINATION Radnička Street is still rocking at 4am. Where the party’s at: formerly known as Katran, the warehouse club is now Depo and hosts top Croatian and international DJs every Friday and Saturday, till the wee hours. Our spring pick is Berlin native Nur Jaber, one of Europe’s best DJs, who spins Apr 5 starting at 11pm. Depo has announced new par- ties on Wednesdays and Thursdays. More info @depoklub.com

While Croatia’s popu- lation is falling below four mil, Zagreb’s has never been bigger. The city now has over 800,000 inhabitants – official records for 2017 count 802,762 or 19.5% of the ’s elusive star country’s pop- ulation. Zagreb is name is Matija and he’s the biggest star of the Zagreb Zoo. Everyone knows doesn’t only dom- Hhim, but only from TV and the internet. Those excited to see him in person will inate by positive have to wait a bit until he grows. Matija is a bear cub born this January, who strayed demographics from his mother and ended up on the highway. Luckily, he was saved and brought but also by – to the Zoo, where he is being prepared to readjust to the wild. Until then, he is the women. Zoo’s most famous inhabitant and the only animal visitors can’t see. @zoo.hr Zagreb’s TASTE OF ZAGREB dles from Istria blanched with soft population is and Dalmatia, boiled eggs or po- 53.2% female, powered by but Zagreb’s tatoes. We usually the largest percentage Taste of Croatia outskirts have prepare them in an of female inhabitants their share of this omelet, creamy soup in all of Croatia’s Wild wild object of desire, or risotto. If you’re regions. too. Picking it takes some craving something hearti- asparagus: effort and know-how so er, grated asparagus or Published by: a springtime get your harvest at the asparagus pasta sauce is 30 stupnjeva market. We only eat the the way to go. The warm Editors: sensation soft tips of asparagus but weather makes for a lon- Anja Mutić, don’t toss the stems – use ger asparagus season, so Andrea Pisac Wild asparagus takes the them for a rich green you can also enjoy after Contact: stage around Easter – and broth. If you like their prices drop. But the first [email protected] it shines, especially for sharp earthy taste, don’t batch is the sweetest! In partnership with those with some on their thermally process them Asparagus risotto – 162 cal Zagreb Tourist Board plate. The markets are too much. Try them Try it at Restaurant Agava, Print: Stega tisak d.o.o. flooded with green bun- raw in a salad or lightly price 80–90KN www.zagreb4you.com