UCI Sailing Program
CAPRI 14
Instructional Manual
UCI Sailing Program University of California Irvine Department of Campus Recreation
Anteater Recreation Center 680 California Ave Irvine, CA 92697-4515 (949) 824-5346
www.campusrec.uci.edu
1 Introduction
Welcome to UCI Sailing! Our program introduces you to sailing through the use of our fleet of Capri 14’s. These boats are ideal for learning. They are safe, well built and easy to sail, yet they still offer a challenge to the more experienced sailor and racer. As a participant in the program, you will be responsible for taking proper care of the boat and equipment and for conducting yourself in a safe and sportsmanlike manner at all times. This manual is designed to help you in your initial learning phases and to act as a reference guide as you continue to sail. We hope you will use this as a beginning point. There are many great books and references on sailing that you can use to help increase your knowledge as you progress.
Before going sailing you need to be prepared. Wear closed-toed shoes and dress for the weather. It is usually cooler on the water than on campus, so dress appropriately including bringing a jacket. Sunglasses, a hat or visor and sunscreen are a must for sun protection. Remember to bring extra clothing to change into if you get wet.
Before You Sail
1. Before heading down to go sailing, check the weather conditions and tides by calling the recorded weather report for Newport Harbor at (949) 675-0503. It is also a good idea to check local Internet sites where you can get real time local weather information and the forecasts.
2. Lifejackets or Personal flotation devices are often called PFD’s. The law required that there is one per person on boats like the Capri’s. For classes and other sponsored events, we provide PFD’s and they must be worn at all times. For personal recreational use of the boats, including UCISA, you are responsible for making sure you have PFD’s for each person. Everyone should always wear a PFD when sailing.
3. For all UCISA (club) use, participants must sign out boats in the Capri log located in the jib box. Check over the boat before you rig it up. The instructor will assist you in classes. If equipment is missing or broken, please note this in the Capri log and rig another boat.
4. UCISA Policies: See appendix
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Getting Started and Terminology
These directions are intended to be used as a reminder after you have had your first on-the- water class, or for those with experience, once you have seen the boats. It will seem complicated until you actually do it once.
Terminology: Do not worry right now about all the new words and sailing terminology that you will read in this manual or hear in your class. You will need to learn a few terms to get started so that your instructor and fellow students can communicate effectively and clearly. This will help everyone. We also do not want you to get overwhelmed with terminology at the beginning. We want to get you out on the water. As you sail more, these terms will be easier to remember. As you progress it is very important to learn the terms so you can communicate with other sailors and your instructor.
Rigging
While rigging the UCI Capri’s and boats in general, try not to step into a boat while it is resting on the dock. You may need to in order to reach things, but work as much as you can by standing along side the boats. It is hard on the boat as it is not adequately supported on the dock.
4 1. Check the stern drain plug in the back of the boat (on the transom). Unscrew the plug and check for water in the hull. Drain as necessary, replace the plug and tighten completely. If it is not properly tightened, the hull will fill with water. You will then be unable to sail well or get the boat back onto the dock or possibly even sink. Never leave the drain plug unscrewed! Always reinsert before leaving the boat.
2. Check the forward hatch. The hatch in the bow of the boat should always be closed and tightly latched. If it is not securely closed, and you capsize, it will fill with water. It will then be difficult to get the boat back upright, unstable when sailing, and difficult to lift out of the water. The UCI Capri’s hatches have been permanently sealed shut for your safety.
STEPS 1 and 2 are REALLY IMPORTANT.
3. Mainsail: UCI has two sizes of mainsails, both with flotation sewn into the top of the sail. The smaller or CUTDOWN sails are great for learning, on windy days or if you are singlehanded sailing. You will generally use them in the first class session. The FULL size mainsail has 3 battens that need to go into the sail. These battens, or stiffening sticks, fit into the pockets that are sewn into the sail. The battens need to fit (there are 3 sizes) and be properly secured. The longest batten is not attached to the sail and in stored on a shelf in the main sail dock box. When you insert the battens, be sure to insert them completely into the slot.
4. Rigging the mainsail: With either mainsail, place it on the seat on the right side of the boat, with the rope edge towards the front of the boat. The top of the sail (with the sewn-in floatation) should be on top making it easy to hoist. The halyard is the line that will hoist up the sail.
5. The Boom is held up while the boats are at the dock with the main halyard attached to the outhaul (a blue line) at the end of the boom. You will need to release the main halyard found cleated off on the right hand side of the boat, and carefully lower the boom into the boat. Take the halyard off the outhaul hook and attach the shackle to the top (head) of the mainsail. Do not let the other end of the halyard go and cleat it off on the starboard (right) side of the mast on the lower cleat. Look up and check that the halyard is free and not twisted or tangled. Be CAREFULL not to pull on a halyard unless the other end is secured, otherwise it will go to the top of the mast. Oops!
Do not hoist up the sail at this point. You may insert the first 6-12 inches of the sail bolt rope into the slot on the mast, and raise it about 1 ft. The sails do not get raised until the boats are in the water, and into the wind.
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6. Un-cleat and ease the outhaul (blue line that runs along the boom), downhaul (red line where the mast and boom meet), boom vang (white line that runs between the boom and mast on a diagonal), and mainsheet (white with red that runs from the boom to a cleat in the center of the boat floor). This is important so the boom is loose enough to allow the sail to be raised.
7. Jibs (the smaller front sails): Beginning classes often will not use the jib, until the 2nd or 3rd week of class. If you are using the jib, unfold it onto the front deck of the boat, with the jib sheets (long lines) at the mast. Attach the lower corner of the sail (where the sail maker insignia or patch is) to the tack fitting, and working from the bottom up, attach the clips (hanks) to the forestay (the front wire). Attach the jib halyard, checking that it is not twisted. Re-cleat the halyard to the cleat on the left side (port) of the mast, but do not raise the sail. The jib sheets are lead, one on each side of the boat, outside of the shrouds (wires that support the mast), then through the jib fairleads. Tie a figure 8 knot with an extra twist in the end of the jib sheet. Your instructor will show you how to tie this knot. (See appendix on knots)
8. Rudders and tillers: Take the rudder and tiller from the rack. Do not put the rudder in until after you get the sails ready. You will need to slide the boat back about 1 foot off the edge of the dock, so you can put the rudder in without having it hit the dock. You can also wait to put the rudder and tiller in, once you have put the boat into the water. The tiller goes under the traveler, the line across the back of the boat. You need to check that both the rudder pins are in the brackets on the stern (back) of the boat.
9. Launching your boat: Check that the centerboard is completely up, before pushing the boat into the water. Hold the bow line, as you slide the boat into the water. Once it is launched, cleat the bow line to a dock cleat. Step into the boat, keeping your weight near the center of the boat. Lower the centerboard, by releasing the control line that is located on the port or left side of the centerboard. Watch that you do not get your fingers in the way, as the board lowers itself. Also check that there are no lines that might get stuck in the slot for the centerboard. If it does not easily lower, gently pull aft on the stainless steel ring keeping your hands clear. You may need to step on the centerboard to get it moving down into the well.
10. The next step is to get the boat to a dock where it is facing into the wind (More on that later). You may have to get the boats to the other side of the dock area, across the lagoon. Turn your boat around and give a forward push off and scull across. Capri’s are a bit tricky to scull, so get a push off first, and keep your speed up as you scull. Scull by moving the tiller back and forth
6 in large sweeping motions that will propel the boat forward without the sails. You will need to sit in front of the tiller to be able to move the tiller enough to scull.
NOTE: In sailboats, the tiller turns the boat the opposite way. In other words, to steer the front of the boat to the right, push the tiller to the left side. (Or visa versa) You must sit completely in front of the tiller, so it is clear and has its’ full range of motion.
11. Once the boat is facing into the wind, tie it up to a cleat on the dock.
12. The mainsail should always be raised first. Raise the mainsail, by pulling on the halyard. For the full sails, raise it up to the top of the mast. For the cut down sails, raise it up to a point about where the bottom corner is just above the boom and mast fitting called the gooseneck. Cleat the main halyard, and neatly coil the end of the halyard, and stow in the front pocket of the boat. The main halyard is cleated on the lower starboard mast cleat. THE MAINSHEET SHOULD ALWAYS BE UNCLEATED WHILE THE BOAT IS AT THE DOCK. The sail needs to be able to luff (sails flapping with no pressure). Double check that the mainsheet is loose and not cleated.
Note: Be sure you cleat the lines properly so they hold the halyards securely. See the appendix to review how to cleat on a horn cleat.
13. Once the sail is hoisted, attach the downhaul to fasten the sail at the tack or the front corner. Take the downhaul line from the port (left side) of the mast, up through the grommet or hole in lower front corner of the sail, and down to the upper starboard mast cleat. On our boats the downhaul lines are red.
14. Once the sail is pulled up with the halyard, and pulled down with the downhaul, you can attach the outhaul. On the full mainsails, you will need to insert the plastic slide into the forward opening in the boom then slide it all the way aft. The cut-down main sails do not have this plastic slide. The outhaul line is clipped into the back corner of the sail. To tighten the outhaul, follow the line to the cleat on the side of the boom and secure. On our boats the outhaul lines are blue.
15. Adjust the outhaul and downhaul to the wind conditions. You will learn more as you advance, but as the wind increases they are tighter. The boom vang should just be snug, not too tight.
16. Hoist the jib, and cleat it off. You want to be sure to raise it until the forestay gets loose. Again, tighten it as the wind increases. On the UCI Capri a metal ring is tied onto the jib halyard to help you get the halyard tight. Hoist your sail and bring the halyard around the cleat and then
7 back up to the ring. Thread the halyard through the ring and back down to the cleat, pull tightly and secure the halyard on the cleat on the port side of the mast. The jib sheets should also be un-cleated while the boat is docked. Be sure you are familiar with how to work these cleats.
17. Coil up the halyards and neatly store them in the pouch at the base of the mast. This will keep the lines out of your way.
18. Lock the dock boxes before you leave the dock.
REMEMBER to check the wind direction and velocity, and the traffic. Did you remember to put on your lifejacket?
De- Rigging the boats
De-rigging is basically the reverse of rigging. It is important that everyone put the boats away properly so they will be ready for the next use.
1. Once you have docked facing into the wind, tie up the boat, lower the jib and re-cleat the Jib halyard at the base of the mast.
2. Lower the mainsail and re-cleat the main halyard at the base of the mast. As you lower the mainsail, hold the boom to prevent it from dropping hard on the boat. Try to keep the sails from falling into the water.
Remember: Do not leave the sails up while at the dock for more than just a few minutes. The excessive luffing and chaffing quickly wears the sails out.
3. If necessary, scull the boat back to the side where the UCI boats are kept. All de-rigging occurs on the UCI dock where our equipment is stored. Moving your boat over to the UCI dock helps reduce congestion in the docking area.
4. Take the sails out of the boat. Do not leave the halyard loose, you do not want to accidently pull the shackle to the top of the mast. Ideally, fold the sails on the grey area of the dock. Take the battens out of the sail, and put the longest one in the tray in the mainsail box. Fold the sails, in a zig-zag pattern, with the fold laying flat on the bottom edge. Fold the sail from
8 the back edge towards the rope edge or front. Sails should be neatly folded to help extend their use, and fit nicely in the dock box.
5. Secure the halyards away from the mast, like they were originally stowed. The jib halyard is secured to the port jib cleat. Secure the shackle with an overhand knot so it does not slip to the top of the mast. Clip the main halyard shackle to the outhaul and hoist the boom to horizontal. Secure the other end of the main halyard to the starboard jib cleat.
6. You can coil and secure the jib sheets, even before you take them off the boat. This helps keep them out of the water as you take the sail off the boat. When you fold the jib, fold toward the sheets and then just set them on the top of the sail, as you put it into the jib box.
7. Remove the rudder and tiller and stow on rack.
8. Raise the centerboard. Stand on the port side and raise the centerboard completely by pulling on the centerboard control line while stepping on the forward portion of the centerboard. Check that there are not any lines that might get caught inside of the centerboard trunk.
9. To get the boat back on the dock, lift it out of the water. Generally if you pull up and then forward the boat will come on the dock easily. Place the bow line on the boat deck and pull the boat up from either side of the bow. This helps to prevent tripping on the bow line. Remember the grey plastic part of the dock is slippery especially when it gets wet.
10. Proper location on the dock. Pull your boat up onto the dock far enough that there is About 1 ft behind the boat. The bow should be just at the edge of the grey dock, but not hitting the hard wooden dock. The boats fit next to each other on the dock, with about 6-10 inches between each boat. To get the boats on the dock properly, you may need to readjust them, starting with the one closest to the sea wall. If you slide the boats sideways, YOU MUST lift from only one side, so that the boat is tipped, and then it slides without damaging the bottom and the centerboard gaskets. You do not want to hear a scraping sound.
11. The mainsheet should just be coiled and loosely placed over the mainsheet cleat. Do not over tighten. The bow line should be coiled and placed on the bow.
12. Wash both the inside and outside of the boat with fresh water using the scrub brushes in the dock boxes.
9 13. The boat should drain through the open holes in the back of the boat. If you loosen the stern drain plug, you must retighten it. Never leave the stern plug loose.
14. Report any damage or broken parts or accidents in the Capri Sign-Out Logbook, to the dock master or the Sailing Office. In class be sure to tell your instructor of any problems you have found.
15. Lock the dock boxes and rudder/tiller rack and double check that your boat is put away properly.
Note if you have capsized: If your sails are wet, either from capsizing, or falling into the water you should wash them with fresh water and let them completely dry before putting them away. If there is not enough time to thoroughly dry the sails, it is better to leave them wet with SALT water. Fresh water will cause the sails to mildew, which is permanent and will ruin the sails. If you have to leave the sails wet in the dockbox, leave the salt water. This can be washed out and does not cause as much damage. Mud definitely needs to be washed out.
You will also need to rinse off the boats including all the rigging such as the mast etc. Salt water is very corrosive, and should be rinsed off thoroughly. The boats and rigging will air dry. If you have capsized and there is mud on the mast, take extra time to completely rinse it, especially the very top of the mast.
Lifejackets or PFD’s
Another term for a lifejacket is a PFD or Personal Flotation Device. Everyone should wear a PFD when sailing, especially in small boats like the Capri’s. The U.S. Coast Guard requires that there be a PFD for each person on all boats 16’ and under (Capri’s are 14 feet). Larger boats have additional equipment requirements. When sailing a UCI Capri you must always wear a PFD.
Non-swimmers are not allowed in classes and UCISA members should not take non-swimmers out sailing. (PFD’s are not a substitute for swimming.) Children 11 years old and under are required by California law to wear a lifejacket at all times when sailing in an open cockpit boat like the Capri’s or our Shields. We do not have Children’s PFD’s, so plan ahead if you are taking children out sailing and provide an appropriately sized child’s lifejacket. You are
10 responsible to be sure that there is a PFD for everyone on your boat. The Harbor Patrol may issue you a citation of not in compliance with the rules about lifejackets.
It is important to check that your PFD fits you properly. They should fit snug enough so that it will stay snug even in the water. UCI provides comfortable, wearable, vest-type PFDs for classes and organized events and everyone must wear them. They are very comfortable and an important part of boating safety. There are some of these lifejackets available for UCISA use, but it is best to get your own proper fitting PFD once you start to sail outside of your class.
Getting Underway
1. Getting into the boats: Small boats, like the Capri, with centerboards are called “dinghies”. Dinghies use the centerboard to provide lateral stability. To get into the boat, pull the boat close to the dock, step into the center of the boat, and lower the centerboard.
2. Crew Position in the Boat The skipper should sit facing the sail, and should be forward enough to sit completely in front of the tiller. One hand should always be on the tiller and the other hand should be holding the main sheet. You should have your feet underneath you so that you can move easily in the boat. The crew should sit forward of the skipper. If there are 3 sailors in the boat, the 2 crew members generally sit on opposite sides of the boat, across from each other, and forward of the skipper. This will keep the boat balanced. The maximum number of people allowed in a UCI Capri is three.
The skipper should be sure to be comfortable controlling the mainsheet and the cleat. Practice releasing and cleating the mainsheet several time before you go out. The mainsheet cleat stops the mainsheet so you do not have to hold it so tight. Cam cleats are used on the Capri’s. These release by pulling up on the sheet. The tiller extension should be held in place with the clip for your first sail. You will soon learn to use the extension.
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3. Steering The skipper steers the boat by using the tiller. When you push the tiller to the right side, (starboard) the boat turns to the left (port) and vice versa. In order for the tiller and rudder to turn the boat effectively, the boat must be moving through the water. Hold the tiller in the center of the boat until you get a bit of forward speed. (Be patient) The boat will respond to small movements of the tiller once it is moving. Many beginners tend to over-steer. When sailing, the tiller is generally held in the center of the boat or centerline, allowing you to sail a steady course. As the wind increases, there will be a bit more pressure or resistance on the tiller. The tiller will shake or feel like it is pulling away from you. Too much pressure means you need to adjust the sails.
4. Keeping the boat level side to side. When you first start sailing, the boat may tip or heel as the wind hits the sail. The first thing you should remember is to use the sail (and the mainsheet which is the line that controls the mainsail) as your brake or accelerator. When you want to stop the boat, let out the sail. It will luff or flutter and there will be no power in the sail. Remember if you luff too long, the boat will stop and you will lose the ability to steer the boat. While sailing you want to keep the boat moving forward so that you have steering control. If you let out the sail, let out enough to stop it from heeling, but not so much that you stop. Once you get better at sailing you will “feel” how much to ease or let out the sail.
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You may also use the weight of the skipper and crew to balance the boat. Have the crew sit on the same side as the skipper. (Remember the skipper sits opposite the sail). This will keep the weight on the high side. You can also move further out and actually sit up on the rail. This is called hiking out.
Your First Sail
Generally in our sailing classes you will start out by sailing across the base at approximately 90 degrees to the wind (the wind will be blowing over the side of the boat at about the middle of the boat). Remember you will sail essentially straight, holding the tiller in one hand and the mainsheet in the other. Your position is important so you can move comfortable and efficiently in the boat. Below is a basic reminder of what you did on your first sail.
Pick a point to sail towards, either the mark, or find a visual point of reference on land, again your course should be about 90 degrees to the wind. This will help you stay at a constant angle to the wind. Remember to keep you eyes outside of the boat, and alternate between looking ahead for traffic and your direction and at the front edge of the sail. (Your crew members can help look for traffic too)
Adjust your sail, by letting it out just until it luffs a bit (flutters), and then pull it in just enough to stop it from fluttering. By letting it out, you are checking that it is not trimmed too much. If it begins to luff and is now too loose, pull it in just enough to stop it from luffing. Always check your course to monitor that you have not changed your course without realizing it.
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Turning Your Boat
As you start your first sail, you will be 90 degrees to the wind. (This means that as you point forward, the wind will be hitting the side of your boat at a 90 degree angle.) As you sail out from the base, you will need to turn you boat. You will want to initially turn so the front of your boat crosses the wind as you turn. This is called a tack. To tack, you will turn by pushing the tiller towards the sail. You will need to change sides with the sail, as the front of your boat crosses the wind. Face forward and do not let go of the tiller when you tack, and keep hold of the mainsheet too. If you turn the other direction, it is called a jibe, and the back of the boat crosses the wind, and your sail will not luff.
In general you need to keep boat speed so you have steerage. Use the sails and your weight to keep the boat from tipping or heeling too much.
Rules of thumb for first days: When in doubt let it out (“It” means the sail). This will help you keep from tipping too much, or stop you if you get in trouble.
14 Docking: On your first sail you also learned to dock your boat. (With a little help from your instructor) See the section on docking. Remember, you will need to dock so that your boat is facing into the wind.
Finding the wind
Finding the wind direction is a key factor in learning to sail. The wind direction and speed are variables. The wind direction will generally shift in 5-10 degree increments, but at times can shift much more. In Newport the wind has general trends, but always be prepared for changes.
To find the wind direction, you can look at the yarn on the shrouds of your boat, the wind indicators at the top of the bigger boats at the base, and flags. You can also feel the wind on your face. The first thing you should do when you are preparing for a sail, is check the wind direction, and then recheck it to see if it has shifted or changed.
Wind velocity is also a variable. Even when the wind seems consistent, there will be brief increases called puffs and decreases called lulls. If you get used to checking the weather before you get to the sail base, you will get a general idea of what the weather will be for that day. See the appendix for some helpful weather websites.
New Terms
Here are few terms that will be used as you learn more about sailing.
Windward: The direction toward the wind source, or where the wind is blowing from. Leeward: The side away from the wind source.
You will have a windward side of the boat and a leeward side of the boat. You will have a windward dock and a leeward dock or one boat may be to windward of another boat. These terms are use in lots of concepts and refer to the position relative to the wind.
15 “No Go” Zone
Once you find the wind direction, you can begin to understand how to use the wind to make your boat sail. Sailboats can not sail directly into the wind. The closest to the wind that most sailboats can sail is 45 degrees, which means there is a 90 degree area that you can not sail in. This is the “No Go Zone”.
16 Basic Maneuvers: Turning the Boat Tacking and Jibing
As we mentioned on your first sail, there are two basic ways to turn your boat around and on both of these; the boom and the sails will changes sides, and the skipper and crew need to duck so they do not get hit in the head during the turn.
Tacking or coming about: Turning the bow through the wind. The skipper pushes the tiller towards the sail and the boat will begin to turn, heading into the wind. The boat will complete its turn as the bow crosses the eye of the wind and the sail will fill on the other side. As the boat heads into the wind, the sails will luff and the boat will level out. This will allow the skipper to change sides and again face towards the sail. Push the tiller firmly and completely across the boat, but not too fast. Once the boat has completed the tack, the skipper will return the tiller to the centerline of the boat to steer a steady course and the skipper will adjust the sails.
Never let go of the tiller or the mainsheet while tacking. Face forward while you are changing sides and switch the tiller from one hand to the other behind your back. You should keep the main sheet loosely in your hands while you tack. You should be stepping across the boat as the sail changes sides. Tacking is the safest manner in which you change the boat’s direction. It is safer because the sails luff. Remember to look over your shoulder before you tack to be sure that it is clear for you on your new course.
The jib sail is released just as the tack is started and the crew brings it on the new side after the bow crosses the wind and the main sail fills. Do not force it around. Be sure the old jib sheet is released. You only use one jib sheet at a time, the sheet away from the sail, the “lazy” sheet, should be slacked. The jib sheet can easily be released, by just flicking it out of the cleat.
Remember: To tack, push the tiller towards the sail so that the bow crossing into the wind. Tacking is used when you are changing directions while sailing upwind or at 90 degrees to the wind. If you are changing directions when sailing away from the wind, you will usually need to jibe. (See below)
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Jibing: The stern crosses through the wind. The skipper moves the tiller away from the sail and the boat will turn away from the wind. When the stern crosses through the wind the sail will swing quickly over the other side of the boat and fill with wind on that side. Because of the quickness of this maneuver, beginning sailors should come about (tack) rather than perform the potentially more dangerous jibe when turning around. The sail does not luff when jibing.
As you get more skilled you will learn to jibe safely. You generally jibe when sailing away from the wind. To start a jibe, begin by heading away from the wind and let your sail out all the way. To control the speed of your jibe, you must be sailing downwind before beginning to turn around. Turn only as much as you need to bring the sail across. Do not over-turn. Use your weight to balance the boat and change sides as the sail comes across. Remember: The boom will swing across the boat and you can control the jibe by bringing the main sheet in, center it when you actually are jibing, and then let it out on the new side. Have the crew watch their heads as you change sides. The jib can be brought across as the mainsail comes across.
When the boom swings across without you intending it to, it is said to be an accidental jibe. The skipper should be careful to not let this happen. Knowing the direction of the wind is a key to controlling your jibe. Jibing can be very dangerous in stronger winds, so remember you can always change direction by tacking all the way around. If the sail begins to jibe and you do
18 not want to or are not ready, push the tiller towards the sail to turn your boat more up wind. This will stop an accidental jibe.
Basic Commands When you need to turn the boat, and go back the other way, you should tell your crew what you intent to do before it happens. If you are tacking the boat (turning into the wind), the skipper should announce his intention by saying, “prepare to come about.” The crew should respond with “ready.” The skipper will give the command of “tacking”, “helm’s a lee” or “coming about” as he begins to tack. At this point the skipper will change sides so that he is again on the side opposite or facing the sail. The crew changes sides as needed to balance the boat. If you are turning away from the wind, or jibing, the commands are “ready to jibe”. The crew should let the skipper know that they are ready. The skipper then may say “jibing” as you start to turn. It is important to communicate between the skipper and the crew. Both skipper and crew should look around before you say ready to make sure that it is clear to turn. You must look over your shoulder to the direction you will be heading after a tack or a jibe.
Using the jib
On your first day or two of class, you will sail with just the mainsail. As you progress, you will sail with the jib. The principals of sail trim are basically the same for both sails. The jib should be on the same side as the mainsail, adjusted at the same angle to the wind, and pulled in with only one jib sheet. The exception is when you are sailing directly down wind with the wind directly behind you. Sometimes at this point, you pull the jib around to the opposite side of the main sail. This is called sailing “wing and wing” and is a more advanced skill.
There are two jib sheets on a Capri 14. Lead each jib sheet around the outside of the shrouds through the jib cleat. Only one of these sheets is used at a time. Adjust the jib sheet in and out as you would the main. Make sure the windward sheet or a “lazy sheet” is completely released and slack so that the sail can fully fill on the leeward side. The crew will control the jib and needs to remember to face forward so that they can see the jib sail. When tacking the skipper will say”prepare to tack”, you should release the jib from the cleat, but not let it loose. As you tack, let it loose. Do not bring the jib in to the new side after a tack until it crosses and is blown to the new side on its own. Then you can pull it in. On a jibe the jib sheet is also trimmed in after it changes sides.
19 If you pull the jib sheet before the sail flutters across the deck to the other side in its own, you may end up “back winding” or “backing” the jib sail. When this happens the jib fills from the backside and prevents your boat from completing the turn.
Points of Sail
. Points of sail can also be referred to as the basic sailing directions relative to the wind. These “points” are on a continuum and not fixed. “Points of sail” terminology will be used by your instructor and other sailors when they want you to change course.
1. Head to Wind: When your boat is pointing directly into the wind you are “head to wind.” This is also called the “no go zone”. You are unable to sail when head to wind, as the wind cannot fill your sails.
2. Close-Hauled: A close-hauled boat is positioned approximately 45 degrees off the wind. This is the closest angle that your boat will effectively sail. The sails will be pulled all the way over the leeward corner of your boat.
3. Close Reach: A close reach boat is sailing approximately 70 degrees relative to the wind. The sails will be somewhat farther out over the side of the boat.
4. Beam Reach: A beam reach boat is sailing with the wind blowing over the side of the beam of the boat - a 90-degree angle off the wind. The sail will be eased out even further over the side of the boat.
5. Broad Reach: A boat on the broad reach is sailing away from the wind with the wind blowing over the windward corner of the boat - about a 120 degree angle. The sail will be eased out over the side of the boat as it is being “pushed” by the wind.
5. Running: A boat sailing away from the wind with the wind blowing from directly behind is on a run or running. The sails will be all the way out at about a 90-degree angle to the wind.
Sailing towards the wind is referred to as sailing upwind. Close hauled is the closest to the wind you can sail, and close reaching is slightly off that course. As you steer more away from the wind or downwind, you will be beam reaching (what you did the first day), then broad reaching and then you will sail directly down wind or running. You will need to adjust your sails
20 when you change course, or if there is a wind shift. The sails are essentially your brakes and accelerator, or the power source for your boat.
How Sails Work
Sailors often do not understand how a sail really works. There are two ways that the wind and sail interact to move a boat. In one mode, sails “bend” the wind and this creates a lift, which actually pulls a boat forward. In another mode, the sails simply block the wind and the boat is pushed forward. Remember these principles of push and pull. When you are sailing downwind, you are in the push mode. When you sail closer to the wind (reaching and beating) you are in the “pull” mode.
Sails are designed with a curved shape. When wind hits the sails this curved surface “bends” the wind as it flows across both sides of the sail and generates lift. This lift is your boat’s power and it pulls the boat forward and sideways. The centerboard keeps the boat from slipping sideways and allows the wind power to pull the boat forward. Lift occurs when sailing towards the wind or from beam reach to close-hauled.
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At other times the sail blocks the wind, which pushes the boat forward. This occurs when you are sailing directly away from the wind or downwind from a broad reach and running.
Your sails control the amount of power you get from the wind, and therefore your speed. Proper sail adjustment is important. When the sails are luffing or flapping, no power is obtained. This is the how you use the sails as a brake. To get power you need the air flowing across both sides of the sail. You use your sheets to adjust your sails for the best angle to the wind. In addition to using your mainsheet to control the sail’s angle to the wind, you will later learn how to use other adjustments to make adjustments to the sail shape. Sail shape is a topic that you may want to do further study as you increase your sailing skills. There is a lot to learn.
Sail Trim Basics
A course change to bring your bow closer to the wind is called “heading up”. As you change course closer to the wind, your sail will need readjusting. It will begin to luff, so pull it in until the luffing stops, thereby properly adjusting the sail.
A course change further from the wind is called “falling off”. Again, your sails will need readjusting. As you steer away from the wind, ease out your sail until it just begins to luff. Pull in the sail to stop luffing and your sail is now properly set.
Although your course may stay the same, the wind will often shift, requiring sail adjustments to match wind direction changes. If the wind shifts towards the front of your boat, pull the sails in. If the wind shifts towards the stern of your boat, let the sails out. The exception to this practice is if you are already sailing close hauled (see below).
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Sailing on a reach The general rule of thumb for sailing on any reaching course is to let the sail out until it luffs, and pull it in just enough to stop it from luffing. During your first lesson, you were sailing on a Beam reach. On a beam reach your sails are about half way out. When reaching, your sails are constantly adjusted to the course and wind changes. Keep the tiller mostly still and balance the weight of the skipper and crew in the boat to keep it level. To practice trimming the sails, start by picking an object on shore and steer the boat directly toward it. Adjust both the sails by letting them out. As the sails go out, they will eventually begin to flutter or luff, especially along the forward edge of the sail (which is also called the luff). At that point, you should pull the mainsheet and the jib sheet in, causing the sails to tighten, until the luffing stops. Now your sails are properly adjusted for your course.
Remember, that the wind will continually shift directions and you will change course so you constantly make small adjustments. If another Capri 14 is going much faster than your boat on the same course through the water, it could be that your sails are luffing, or are over trimmed (pulled in too much). If your sails are improperly adjusted, or over trimmed, you may heel (tip) too much or have extra pressure on your tiller. This is especially true in heavy wind. In light air, if your sails are too tight, you will go very slowly. 23
Sailing to Windward The principles of proper sail trim are modified when you sail to windward or on a close hauled course. Sailing upwind or sailing to windward requires additional practice. In sailing upwind, the technique for optimum performance is to hold the sail trim mostly steady and vary the course to take advantage of the slight changes in the wind direction. You now hold mostly the same sail trim, because your sails are already pulled in as far as they can go (the mainsail only to the boat’s leeward corner). So when your sails luff, you cannot pull them in further and you will have to make a course change away from the wind to fill the sails. Your boat will not sail effectively at an angle of less than 45 degrees to the wind – remember the “no go” zone. At that point, the sail will begin to luff, and you will lose all boat speed through the water.
To sail into the direction of the wind, you need to make a series of tacks. This means you sail close hauled on one tack, and then change direction and go closed hauled in the other direction. You will sail back and forth in a zig-zag pattern sailing 45 degrees to the wind on each side. This is like using switchbacks to hike up a mountain. The more efficiently you sail, the quicker you will get upwind. This is referred to as sailing to windward, tacking, or beating.
When you are sailing to windward, if you keep sailing too close to the wind, you will find yourself headed into the wind, sails luffing and eventually you will lose your speed. You are now in the “no-go zone”. Once you are not moving it is called being “in irons”.
If the boat is heeling let out or “ease” the main sail. You can also head closer to the wind to luff sails. Both of these maneuvers will help the boat to level out. Be careful not to let the sail luff more than just a little, or you will lose speed and maneuverability. Heeling the boat too much is not efficient. The forces on the sail and rudder loose their effectiveness. You will learn to “feel” the proper angles for boats as you sail more.
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In Irons You can get stuck in “irons” generally from two basic mistakes. If you do not complete your tack and remain pointing into the wind, you will lose your speed or momentum and your ability to steer the boat. To avoid this, complete each tack fully. If you keep your eyes outside the boat, and have a general idea of where your new course should be, you can avoid this. Also be sure you have enough speed to complete the tack. Bringing the jib in too early (before it has filled on its own on the new side) will also cause getting into “irons”. Let the wind blow the jib across to the new side, then sheet it in, don’t force the sail over by pulling the sheet in too quickly.
The other way the newer sailors get into “irons” is by continually luffing the sails. Eventually you will lose speed, and then the ability to steer the boat. The boat will then be stuck “in irons” and not moving.
Getting out of Irons: Without speed, you cannot steer with your tiller. In order to get out of irons, you need to get some speed. The easiest way to get moving forward again is to start sailing backwards, by just letting the boat drift backwards and then turn towards the direction
25 you need to go (i.e. about 70 degrees to wind). When your boat is moving backwards, your tiller works differently than when you are moving forward. When moving backwards, push the tiller the way you want to go. Luff both sails (making sure the jib sheets are released) and let your boat drift backwards. Once you are moving, push your tiller the way you want the boat to turn and you will back around. Once you have turned away from the wind, center the tiller and wait a few seconds before sailing forward. The Capri’s need several seconds with the tiller held in the center of the boat, to allow it to be in “neutral” before you can start sailing forward and regain the use of the tiller to steer your boat. Be prepared to change sides as this happens, so you are on the “high” side or facing the main sail.
An alternative way is to use your mainsail to start your boat sailing backwards. Push your mainsail out all the way (90 degrees to the wind) and let it fill backwards. Push your tiller to the same side and you will back around and eventually end up facing that direction. Once you have turned about 90 degrees to wind (beam reach), pull in your sail, center your tiller and start sailing forward. Be sure to push the tiller and mainsail to the same side, which is the way you want it to turn. Remember when your boat is moving backwards, push the tiller the way you want to turn the bow. (Reverse of how tiller works when moving forward.)
When you are stuck close to boats, or docks, remember to steer away from the boats, and back towards the middle of the channel. Better yet is to avoid this in the first place by keeping your boat moving.
Sailing Downwind When you sail away from the wind, you are running. On this point of sail the wind only flows on one side of the sail and your boat is pushed. It is important to pay attention to where the wind is coming from. It should be pointing towards your sail, not coming from the same side as your sail. If you allow the wind to come from the same side that the sail is on, you may have an accidental jibe. This is when the boom swings over quickly and unexpectedly. This is especially dangerous in windy conditions. When the wind is coming from the same side as the mainsail, you are sailing by the lee. Often it is safer to sail a bit closer to the wind to avoid accidently getting caught with the wind on the “wrong side”. You also need to steer with small movements to keep the boat stable when sailing downwind. This is very important in heavy wind as the boat will tend to rock from side to side and be tippy.
When sailing downwind your sails will be all the way out and you will need to balance the weight in the boat to keep it level. The skipper should sit opposite the sail and the crew should be
26 prepared to change sides to maintain boat balance. The tiller should be keep basically centered, with little adjustments.
When you are sailing directly downwind (running), the mainsail will block the flow of the wind to the jib. In this situation, you can try sailing wing and wing, where the jib is on the opposite side as the mainsail. Release the jib sheet and pull the jib around to the windward side of the boat. Often you will need to hold the jib sheet in your hand to keep the jib in proper position. The jib needs to be loose and be flying out near the bow of the boat, similar to the angle of the mainsail.
Controlled jibing: When you are jibing from a broad reach to a broad reach, the skipper pulls in the mainsail before the jibe so that the sail is centered over the cockpit. A small tiller adjustment is made and then the sail is it let out quickly as the boom changes sides. The skipper changes sides with the sail. As the boom crosses the centerline, center the tiller and then turn it just enough to keep the boom on the new side of the boat. If you want to change course further, do so after the jibe is completed.
Notes on jibing: The crew should keep the boat balanced through the jibe. Both the skipper and the crew need to watch their heads and duck as the boom crosses over. The skipper should
27 face forward and change hands with the tiller and mainsheets behind her back as the sail crosses. You will get better with this as you practice.
Safety Position
Safety position allows you to safely stop your boat to change skipper and crew positions or make rigging adjustments. Your instructor will also use it when they need you to stop or slow down to give instructions, or if there is a problem. Sail on a close reach (the wind 70 degrees to the center of boat) and let your sails out. Your boat will slow down and level out with the sails luffing outside of the cockpit. Your boat should come almost to a complete stop. Allow enough room for your boat to drift forward before you go into this position. To get going again, simply sheet in your main sail.
28 Leaving the Dock
In your first class your instructor will help you get away from the dock, but as you progress, you will need to be able to get off independently. First double check the wind direction and make sure that you are still headed into the wind. Determine what direction your boat needs to be in order to start sailing. The idea is to get your boat turned away from the wind, at least to a 60 degree angle so that the wind can fill your sails, and so you can have steerage to get you sailing. It will take several seconds for your boat to pick up speed, and for you to therefore have steerage. Be patient.
The following instructions apply when the wind is blowing at a 90 degree angle to the entrance of the lagoon, or ‘straight down the channel’. Before you push off, check the traffic in the channel, and for other boats that are trying to dock in the lagoon. The docks at the sailbase can often be crowded. Depending on the wind and if you have space, you can turn the side of your boat to the dock to push off. Step into the boat and start sailing. If the docking area is crowded, gently push your boat directly backwards, using that speed to turn your boat until you are at an angle you can sail. Remember if you are moving backwards, your tiller works the opposite way, so gently push the tiller the way you want your bow to turn. Just before you get to your course out of the lagoon, center the tiller and hold it there. Once you have completely stopped moving backwards, you can adjust your sail and start sailing forward.
Often you will need to walk your boat to the end of the docking area, closest to the channel, to make it easier to set sail. This is often the best place to set sail from when the wind is blowing straight into the docking area. Experience and practice in the boats will make launching easier.
As you are leaving the lagoon, remember to fend off any other boats so you do not scratch the hull. It is never acceptable to run into or hit another boat.
Returning to the Dock
When you are getting ready to return to the dock, again you need to find out where the wind is coming from. You will want to end up with your boat pointing into the wind. Since the wind does shift directions, you may be docking to a different side than the side you launched from. Check that the docking area is clear and that there are not any boats leaving the docks. Enter the lagoon, and luff both your sails to slow the boat down. Plan your approach to have as much room as possible to head directly into to the wind. If you make a sharp turn, you will kill your speed 29 and be able to slowly approach the dock. Avoid hitting the dock straight on. As you get close to the dock continue to turn slightly to bring the side of the boat rather than the bow to the dock. As you turn, the boat will heel a bit if it is windy, just keep it balanced. Also the mainsail will come to the center of the boat, just let it luff and watch your head. Do not let go of the tiller as you dock.
Again practice will make this easier, and you will learn to make adjustments for different wind direction, velocity and the congestion. Be careful as you get out of the boat to tie it up. Do not “jump to the docks”. You can scull the boat if you are going too slow.
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Weather Helm
This is defined as the “tendency of the boat to head into the wind”. What does that mean? A well- balanced boat will hold a straight course with only an occasional correction of the tiller. The proper relationship between the sails and centerboard is necessary for proper balance.
You can feel weather helm through pressure on your tiller and you will find yourself continually pulling on the tiller just to maintain a straight course. You will be pulling the tiller (also called the helm) to windward. Too much weather helm decreases the effectives of you tiller and the ability to steer your boat. A little bit of “weather helm” will let you feel your boat, and if you let go of the tiller accidently, your boat will head up into the wind,
Generally when you are sailing and you are starting to get too much weather helm is a sign that your boat is heeling too much or overpowered. (Usually the wind is getting strong). At this point you will want to hike out, luff your main sail, or turn the boat towards the wind slightly. As you first start to sail, you will hike a bit, but mostly luff your mainsail. Try to not luff the sail too
31 much as this affects your ability to properly sail. We have “cut down sails” so that you can sail with your sails trimmed and not be overpowered.
Using Your Sails to Help You Steer
Understanding the interaction between the force of the wind in your sails and the force of the wind pushing your boat sideways is important for sailing effectively. The center of wind pressure on the sails is called the “center of effort” or “CE”. The fulcrum or pivot point of your boat in the water is called the “center of lateral resistance” or “CLR.” The CLR can be thought of as your centerboard.
When the center of effort (wind) is behind the CLR (centerboard), the boat tends to head into the wind and is said to have “weather helm”. The opposite situation “lee helm” occurs when the center of effort (wind) is forward to the CLR (centerboard). With lee helm, the boat will tend to fall off the wind. “Weather helm” and “lee helm” are managed by adjusting your sails. Understanding the effect your sails have in turning your boat is really important.
If you need to steer away from the wind, or fall off hard, you need to let out your mainsail. Remember it is the main sail that is pulling you into the wind (weather helm). This can be really important if you have to change course suddenly to avoid a collision etc. Your boat will turn much sharper, if you let the main sail out a lot and quickly. If you are turning up wind, bring in your mainsail as you come onto your new course. The sail not only will luff less, it will help turn your boat.
Conversely, since your jib pulls you away from the wind, (leeward helm) do not pull it in when turning up wind, until your mainsail is mostly pulled in and you are on the new course.
When your boat is moving slow, or has little steerage, like when you are leaving the dock, knowing how your sails work can really help. If you start to turn away from the wind too quickly, ease your jib and then keep your mainsail drawing. Or if you need to turn away from the wind, ease your mainsail and keep your jib drawing. If you experiment out on the water, you will start to feel this, and then it will be easy to understand.
There are lots of fine tuning and tricks to sailing well. One reason to learn some of these is to make your sail more efficient, especially as the wind increases. Racing sailors need to know how to sail well, and sailing in fun races can really improve your sailing, even if being a recreational sailor is your goal.
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Heeling and Hiking
As the wind hits your sails, the boat will tip or heel away from the wind. This is normal and caused by the force of the wind hitting the sails. As the wind increases, so will the amount your boat will heel. You do not want your boat to heel too much. A boat that is sailing “flat” is much easier to steer, and will not accidentally tip over. Also, you sail faster when your boat is kept flat.
When your start to heel, move your weight. The skipper should already be sitting on the “high” side (facing the sail) so he may want to start moving his weight outboard, by sitting on the rail. The crew may also need to move to the high side and also sit out on the rail. Our boats have hiking straps for your feet, just position your feet under the strap and you will be able to actually “hike out”.
Once you are sitting outboard, you will need to use the tiller extension. Hold the extension with a “thumbs up” grip, as if holding a microphone. This is also the way you should hold the mainsheet. Remember you will ALWAYS have one hand on the mainsheet and the tiller. In general just push and pull the tiller extension just like you did without it. Practice this when it is light air, and then you will feel comfortable as the wind increases. Often sitting up on the rail is more comfortable and most advanced sailors prefer to sail with the tiller extension. See the section on Heavy weather sailing for more hints.
Capsizing
Capsizing occurs when your boat tips over. This is a natural part of sailing small boats or dinghies. It is just a part of sailing small boats, and it is nothing to be afraid of. We will teach you the skills that help to prevent capsizing, but it does sometimes happen. You will be able to get your boat back upright and sailing again safely and quickly. The Capri 14 is a “self bailing” boat which means that the boat is designed to drain water from the cockpit automatically.
Capsize Safety Rule: In most classes you will also have the instructor in her safety launch ready to help if needed. Most importantly stay with your boat since it will float. You are much more visible with the boat so do not swim away. Even if you cannot right the boat, stay with the boat and wait for help. You should have on your lifejacket at all times, but if not, put it on immediately. Before you do
33 anything else, be sure that you have checked to see that everyone is OK and is safe and not tangled in any lines or the rigging.
How to right your boat: The Capri 14s are best righted using the “Scoop Method” when there are two or more people sailing the boat. The method has one person scooped up into the boat, and therefore in the boat once it is upright. This is a big help in keeping the boat facing into the wind and helping the others get back into the boat.
Communication: After you have let each other know you are ”OK” you need to talk to each other and decide what part each of you will do in getting the boat upright.
As your boat capsizes, let go and fall into the water. It is important to move quickly so that the boat continues to float on top of the water. We have floatation sewn in all of our mainsails, so that they do not easily turn upside down. You need to move quickly as once the boat fills with water, the flotation can not work against the weight of the water. If you try to hang on too long, you might pull the boat past a 90 degree angle, and cause it to turn “turtle”. When a boat has turned turtle, it is floating completely upside down with the mast pointing down and often into the mud at the bottom of the bay. Again, work safely and quickly to right your boat.
What each person will do: Person “A” should stay near the mast/boom fitting (the gooseneck) and help support the boat. Relax and let the PFD support you. Release or un-cleat the jib sheet and mainsheet quickly. If the mainsail fills with water it is very difficult to right the boat.
Person “B” swims around to the centerboard, keeping in contact with the boat at all times. Swimming holding the mainsheet is a good way to keep in contact with the boat.
The boat will need to be facing into the wind, before it can be righted, you might need to swim it around using the bow line, or rotating it from the stern. This will be especially important in heavy winds.
Once the boat is in position, person “B” gets ready to right the boat by hanging onto the centerboard. You can hang on it like a possum with your arms and legs wrapped around the outer end of the centerboard. You need to get your body out of the water to pull the boat upright. As the boat starts to right, keep your weight on the centerboard by leaning your chest onto it. As the boat rights, grab onto the gunwale or edge of the boat. You will be surprised how well this method will work, even if you are only about 100 lbs.
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Person “A” gets into position to be scooped into the boat. With the boat on its side, swim into the boat, by moving up along the center of the seats. Hold on to the hiking straps and try to get parallel to the seats and just let your self get scooped up. As the boat begins to right, shift your weight to help right the boat.
Once you are in the boat, be sure the sheets are released, grab the tiller and keep the boat headed into the wind. Help your crew into the boat. They should hang onto the transom (the back of the boat) and come in over the back. You can help by pulling them up by their lifejackets. There is also a “step” in the back of the boat that can be pulled out to put your foot into. This can help you get up out of the water, and then into the boat.
Doing a “practice” capsize is great way to get comfortable and realize that capsizing is not something to be afraid of. Before any students get a UCISA rating they must demonstrate a capsize recovery using the scoop method with a crew as well as recovering the boat alone.
If the boat has turned turtle, you will need to stand on the gunwale, the side of the boat, and use a sheet for leverage (throw the sheet over the hull and use it to lean back and pull on). You will need to get as much leverage as you can. Both the skipper and the crew may need to help get the boat back to 90 degrees.
If the boat is stuck too far into the mud you may need outside assistance from your instructor or the harbor patrol if not in a class. This should be preventable by acting quickly to get the boat upright.
An alternative method to righting the boat is to actually climb onto the centerboard. Using the jib sheet as a righting line, stand and lean back until the boat turns upright. It is hard for some people to be able to reach up to get on the centerboard. You can make a loop with the jib sheet, or the end of a halyard (do not un-cleat it from the mast) to assist you in getting on the centerboard. Use the loop as a foot ladder to get an extra boost to get onto the centerboard.
There are several variations and methods that will work for Capri’s and other boats. In some dinghies, like the Flying Juniors, you can do a “walk over” where you climb over the side of the boat and onto the centerboard without dropping into the water. This does not work on the Capri as it is wider at the beam. For more information, please check outside resources including the campus recreation web site at www.campusrec.uci.edu/outdoor/sailing
35 Once you are back at the docks, be sure to wash off your boat completely, especially the mast if it turned turtle. You will need to tip the boat on its side to properly clean the mud out of the mast. Please get assistance to do this from an instructor or the dock master. The sails should be washed and dried completely before putting them away. If they can not be completely dried (it is too late in the day) do not wash them with fresh water as it will cause mildew. Try to get back down and wash and dry the sails as soon as you can. Report any damage to the instructor, dock master or sailing office.
Note on Hypothermia: Hypothermia is the reduction in body temperature caused by exposure to cold temperature and cold water. This can be a life threatening situation. It is the combination of wind and wet that is the biggest threat in our area. Once you have capsized, you may need to get back to the docks ASAP, and get into dry clothes. Wind proof and quick drying clothing can help prevent you from getting too cold. The PFD’s are also a help in keeping your core warm, even when wet.
Watch that you and your crew are not getting hypothermic. The early signs include uncontrolled shivering, then apathy. Learn more about appropriate clothing and additional ways to prevent hypothermia through the Red Cross.
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37 Overboard Recovery
Hopefully this is a skill you will have practiced and never really need to use. It is a good exercise for newer sailors to try, and will help you get more familiar with handling your boat.
If you have a real situation in the Capri, there will generally be only one person left aboard, but you should still yell loudly “Man overboard”. This will help alert other boaters near by. You goal is to safely and quickly get back to pick up the person. You will be very relieved that you have your lifejacket on. This is true whether you are in the water, or trying to pick up the person. If they do not have a lifejacket on, throw them a PFD. (Remember everyone in the boat should always have on a PFD!). In these boats you will want to approach them from a close hauled to close reach position, luffing the sails so that you STOP along side the victim. It will be safer to approach them so that the person overboard will be on your windward side.
As soon as someone falls overboard, tack and then sail back to the person. If it is light air, you can jibe and then make your approach back up towards the wind and the person. By approaching from the “safety position” you will be able to control your speed by luffing your sail, or sheeting in if you stop short. Keep your eyes on the person constantly so that you do not lose them. You will usually need to pull the victim over the transom, and use the same techniques as when recovering from a capsize.
To practice you can use a PFD or a partially filled water jug (which will be a bit more realistic). If you practice you will be able to get your favorite hat that just blew off, before it sinks.
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More About the Wind
Since wind is the key concept in sailing there are lots of definitions and concepts that you will want to know as you sail. Here is some more information for you.
True wind: The "true wind" is the actual wind blowing. You will feel this at a fixed point, such as standing on the docks.
Apparent Wind: Apparent wind is the combination of the actual wind and the wind created by the boat moving forward. The apparent wind will change in speed and also in direction. You will notice that apparent wind is less when traveling downwind because you are moving the same direction as the wind. When you are located on a moving platform, such as an airplane or boat, you feel or see the "apparent wind".
39 Westerly or Southerly: (or any other point on a compass): Winds are referred to by the direction from which they are blowing.
Off shore winds: blow from the land out to the body of water.
On shore or Sea Breezes: blow from the water onto the shore. They are the result of cooler air over the water being pulled in by the hotter air rising over the land. Typically they build strength in the afternoon as the land heats up.
Puff: a temporary increase in wind velocity.
Lull: a temporary decrease on wind velocity
“Right of Way” Rules
The most important rule for all boaters is to avoid a collision. This requires an alert skipper who is aware of traffic and knowledgeable of the rules. The purpose of all “right of way” rules is to avoid collisions.
You are required to maintain a proper lookout. This is especially important in a busy harbor. Keep in mind that not all your fellow boaters will know the rules so you must never force your right of way. Common sense and courtesy are essential when sailing. All of our sails identify you as a “UCI” sailor so please protect our reputation in the harbor.
All boats are required to maintain a safe speed. In Newport the stated speed limit is 5 knots (approximately 5 miles per hour) for power boats.
Listed below are the basic rules used to avoid collisions. There are also specific rules and policies for each harbor or body of water, so you need to learn those as well. When sailing in Newport Harbor, the Inland Right of Way Rules apply. These are stated in a simplified form below. There are separate rules for racing and for areas outside the harbor (i.e. international waters) which are mostly consistent with the rules we list here. There are some special situations to be aware of in Newport.
When boats are moving close or may collide you need to determine which boat is the “stand on: and which is the “give way”. Stand on Vessel maintains its course and speed and the give-way
40 vessel alters course. This means that you never have the right of way; you are just the boat that is the “stand on vessel”.
There are rules that apply between two sailboats, between power boats, between a sailboat and power boats and between manual propelled boats. There are also rules that apply when there are commercial boats and large boats in confined waterways. Newport Harbor can be considered a confined waterway or a narrow channel for many boats so please read that section carefully.
NOTE: When you are making a course change to avoid a boat, make it clear or change course soon enough that the other boat can understand your intentions.
Before you get too far in the rules remember you MUST avoid all collisions!
Overtaking boats A boat approaching another boat from the stern (behind) and overtaking shall keep clear of the vessel being overtaken. Therefore the overtaking boat is the give way boat. The boat being overtaken shall hold course and speed. This rule applies equally to all boats, including two powerboats, two sailboats, a sailboat overtaking a powerboat and vice versa. The overtaking boat shall pass on either side, as long as there is room.
Rowing or human powered boats All vessels shall keep clear of man-powered vessels (i.e. canoes, rowing, paddle, and swimmers). In Newport Harbor there are lots of rowing shells. These can move very fast and most of the people in the boat cannot see you since they often face backwards. Rowing shells are not able to stop quickly or change course drastically. Please be aware of these boats and make adjustments to avoid them. Skippers of smaller kayaks and row boats will often not be very skilled or know the rules, so anticipate their course if you can.
NOTE: Capri’s are small and easily maneuvered boats – please anticipate where other boats are headed and adjust your course to avoid collisions.
Operating in a narrow channel Most of Newport Harbor is considered a narrow channel or confined waterway. The rule states that boats less than 66 ft can not impede the passage of large boats in confined waterways or where the depth of water limits the part of the harbor they can maneuver in. Large powerboats may have limited abilities to maneuver at the low speed (5 mph) required in Newport Harbor. Large powerboats and some larger sailboats must stay in certain parts of the harbor where it is
41 deep enough for them to maneuver. At the end of the channel where we sail there are docks for several of the large ‘party” boats. Be aware of their limited maneuverability and stay out of their way.
Traffic patterns in narrow channels are usually arranged so that boats must keep to the right as much as possible. In Newport, especially in our channel, which is designated as the main navigational channel in the Harbor, powerboats or other boats steering a straight course should follow this pattern. As a Capri sailor, you do not cross in front of boats following this pattern. In particular, avoid sailing in front of the blue and white Pavilion tour boats as they often will not be aware of you.
The dredging barges in Newport: Often there are two or more large barges and their equipment operating in the harbor. They have the right of way over you and everyone else. YOU MUST STAY completely away from them. They can not stop or change course for you. They move quite fast and the water behind them is very turbulent as well. You will not hear them as they make very little sound, so KEEP A CONSTANT LOOK OUT for their movements.
Sea Room/Obstruction
The skipper of a vessel that needs to alter course because it is sailing around an obstruction may sometimes yell “sea room” or “obstruction” in which case you should alter course and give the boat room to sail around the obstruction. An obstruction could be anything that hampers a boat's
42 course such as shallow water, the sea wall, docks, etc. This often applies between two sailboats as they tack up a channel. Anticipate circumstances where you will need to give “room” and alter your course early.
Sailboats and powerboats Motor boats shall keep out of the way of sailing vessels. Remember there are modifications to this rule as stated above. It is important to know that powerboats do not have brakes and often cannot stop quickly. Sailboats under power are considered powerboats. Remember not to cut in front of a powerboat, especially if they are near the side of the channel as there is little room to maneuver. Also, many boaters do not know the right of way rules, especially those renting the electric “Duffy” boats. The rental site is near the base and often the Duffy boats come down the channel very close to our docks.
Rules between Sailboats These rules should in general be used between our boats in classes, and other boats of similar size. The following right of way rules apply between two or more sailboats. You need to first know the terms Starboard tack and Port tack and Windward and Leeward in order to use the rules.
A boat on Starboard tack, has the boom on the port side (left), and wind coming over the starboard or right side. A boat on Port tack has the boom on the starboard side, and the wind coming over the port side.
A leeward boat is the boat further away from the wind (between two boats) and the windward boat, is the boat closer to the wind.
Now to use the rules you must be able to determine what tack you are on. Remember you are either on the same tack as a boat, or on the opposite tack. First determine what tack you are on, then what tack the other boat is on. Then you can decide which of the basic rules will apply.
1. When two sailboats approach on opposite tacks, the boat, which has the wind on the port side, or a port tack boat shall keep clear of the starboard tack boat.
2. When both have the wind on the same side or (on the same tack) the boat to windward shall keep out of the way of the boat that is to leeward.
43 3. If the port tack boat sees a vessel to windward and cannot determine the tack, it shall keep clear.
It can be helpful to nicely call out your position like “starboard tack” to let the other vessel know you expect it to give way. The port tack, for example, shall respond with “hold your course”.
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Note on the Balboa Ferry You should always avoid the Ferries. They have to be able to cross the channel, and have limited maneuverability and limited areas in which they can alter their course. It would be impossible for them to operate if other boaters did not keep clear. There are 2 or 3 ferries operating at a time. As you approach, identify where they are, and plan your passage. Do not cut in front or try to squeeze by them along the docks. It is best to pass behind them and it is easy to do if you plan ahead. You can always just tack away for a few minutes and then pass when it is safe. The ferries in Newport are square with two wheelhouses so the captain can face both ways. To determine which direction the ferry is headed you need to consider the direction the cars are facing on the ferry. Aim to pass on side near the car trunks.
Further information on right of way and safety rules as well as sounds, lights and channel markings, may be found in the “ABC of the California Boating Law”. This is a free publication provided by the California Department of Boats and Waterways and is available at the Harbor Patrol and on the Internet at www.dbw.co.gov . Your instructor can also provide copies of this booklet.
These are just the basics. If you ever sail in a harbor with commercial traffic such as San Diego, Long Beach or the Port of LA, you will need to learn more and know the specific rules for that area.
Weather Advisories
An important part of becoming a sailor is to understand a bit about weather, and how it might affect you while out sailing. You can get the general forecast for the day on the Internet, by a phone recording or in the paper. Once you get the report, you want to watch to see if the weather forecast was in fact correct, or if any changes that might be occurring. Remember the Capri’s and the Shields are not designed for heavier winds. Our program’s wind limit for the boats is 15-18 knots for the Capris and 18 knots for the Shields. Sailing in the upper wind ranges takes skill and practice.
Major weather advisories in Newport Harbors are posted at the Harbor Patrol Station, which is located near the entrance to the harbor. A red pennant (red triangle shaped flag) designates
46 small craft advisories. Small craft advisories warn of winds from approximately 25 to 38 miles per hour or rough and dangerous sea conditions. UCI Boats do not go sailing in winds over 18 knots or when a Small Craft Advisory is posted, regardless of conditions. If there are white caps in the harbor, it is too windy to sail. Small craft are defined as boats under 65 feet in length.
General conditions in Newport Most often the wind in Newport blows from the southeast or west. The wind usually “clocks” or moves Westerly and builds in strength as the day goes on. This is especially true in spring and early summer. These are the typical sea breezes for our area.
In North America weather systems normally move from the west to the east. Weather systems are referred to as low and high pressure systems. When you see a weather map it will have a large “H” for High and Low will have the “L.” The atmospheric pressure is measure by a barometer. Generally when the pressure is rising, which indicates fair weather, when it starts to fall, poor weather or storms are pending. Low pressure systems can mean strong winds, rain and a storm. High pressure in general means good weather.
In the winter, most storms come in from the North, but the winds preceding and during a storm blow from a Southerly direction. Winter storms usually have strong winds both during the storm and as it blows through. These winds may last 24 to 48 hours after the main storm blows through. The Capris & Shields do not go out if there is a threat of lightning. If you get caught, return to the Sail base immediately.
If the wind blows from inland or the desert, it is a called a Santa Ana wind. These are the hot dry winds. UCI Capris do not go out in these conditions due to two factors. First, Santa Ana winds may be very strong and gusty. Second, the wind blows in such a direction that docking the boats is difficult.
Fog can come in anytime of the year and can reduce visibility to almost zero.
Newport is generally considered an area of light winds, but both Santa Ana’s and storms can cause very strong winds. Other times of the year, especially in the afternoon the winds can become strong, and Capri sailors need to be cautious. Generally the winds go down with the sun, which is one reason Capris are not permitted to sail after the sun sets. (You also would be required to have navigation lights on your boat).
47 It is important to learn about and to pay attention to the weather. If you go sailing in an unfamiliar area, it is especially important to learn about the local weather patterns. Southern California is more predictable than many areas, so use extra caution in a new area.
Tides and Currents
Tides are the vertical movement of water caused by the gravitational pull of the earth and the moon. Tides occur daily and at predictable intervals. There are two tidal changes each day. You can look in the newspaper, a tide chart or on-line for the current day. The recorded weather phone line also provides the high and low tides for that day (949-675-0503). The amount of change varies due to many factors. You can also notice whether it is high tide or low tide at the docks by the angle of ramps - a steep ramp means it is low tide. Another way is looking at the dock pilings. If a lot of wet area shows, it is low tide.
Current is the horizontal movement of water caused by tides or other factors. In rivers it is the result of flowing from higher to lower elevations. In the bay you will get current from the tidal flow, and in the ocean there is often a current that moves down the coast.
You need to know when it is both high and low tide before you go sailing. The time for the tide to cycle from high to low is six hours. You need to know the direction of the tides before you go out sailing so you can understand how the tide will affect the movement of the water in the bay, either incoming or outgoing water. You will go much faster if you are sailing ‘with the tide’. If you sail down the bay with an outgoing tide, you need to remember it will take you longer to get back to the base since you will be sailing against the tide. This is very important in light air. In very light air you may not even be able to sail against the tide and will be stalled or possibly move backwards. The effects of tide will be increased towards the central turning basin where the Back Bay water meets the harbor. This is due to the increased volume of water that is moving. Be especially careful and do not sail too close to the bridge on Coast Highway.
Tide and current are more dramatic the deeper the water. Deep water will increase the speed of both. Look at objects like buoys in the water, and you will be able to see which way the water is moving and the amount of force. Knowing the tide and current patterns will also help you gauge
48 if you will sail faster or slower especially in light winds. Again, this is an area where there is a lot more to learn, especially if you plan to sail in other locations or offshore.
Sailing Capri’s in Stronger Wind and “Sailing Well”
As the wind increases, you want to be able to keep your boat flat, and still have speed. When you are sailing upwind as you get a puff of wind, or velocity increase, you want to make adjustments. First, hike out and get your crew helping you to keep the boat flat. When you were first learning you just let out your sail if you were heeling too much. Now with more experience, hike out, keep your jib pulled in and have the skipper use the mainsail to control the heeling. As you progress, you will learn how to give up the smallest amount of sail area you need to keep your boat under control. If you luff the jib rather than the main, you will not be able to continue sailing upwind, and you will end up sailing inefficiently. With experience, you will learn how to let out the main sail a little bit to continue sailing. You want to give up the smallest amount of sail area you need to to keep your boat under control.
Also as the wind strength increases, you can feather up into the wind, again, just a bit. Feathering up means changing your course towards the wind by pushing the tiller towards the sail an inch or two and not adjusting the sails as they are already in tight. This will usually keep you at the proper angle to the wind, (puffs affect the direction), and therefore keep your boat under control and sailing flat. As the puff decreases you will want to adjust back to your old course, these changes are usually only a few degrees. Sometimes you will actually continue to sail closer to the wind, and your sails will luff just a bit. Do not luff so much that you lose speed, just luff enough to keep your boat flat and moving.
If you sail too close to the wind it is called “pinching”. Your sails are in tight and they are trimmed appropriately, but you are loosing boat speed. Fall off just a bit (turn away from the wind) to position your boat for maximum performance.
When sailing up wind, there is a sort of “groove”. This is where the boat is just on the edge of the “no go” zone. When you are sailing in the groove your boat feel like it’s sailing correctly. Using skills of feathering up will help you sail in the groove.
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Many boats have Telltales on the sail to help you sail in the grove. Telltales are attached to the luff of the sail, and are in pairs, one on each side. As you sail up wind you want to keep the tell tales streaming back smoothly and parallel to each other. If you start to sail too close to the wind, the telltale on the windward side will start to raise and flutter, while the telltales on the leeward side will continue to stream back straight. If you sail too far off the wind, the telltales on the leeward side will begin to drop and stall, while the windward continue to stream back straight.
50 When you are sailing well, both the windward and leeward telltales will stream back parallel. You might think of the windward telltales as giving you a “pre luff” warning. On the other hand, if you need to head up, the leeward telltales will let you know that. Remember that the wind continually shifts in direction and velocity, both of which affect the angle you can sail up wind.
As the wind continues to increase, or if you are having trouble controlling your boat, you will want to consider decreasing the amount of sail area. UCI provides “cut down” mainsails, which have less sail area and are good for use in winds of 12 to 18 knots. These sails do not need battens. These are also good for use by novices or anytime you need less sail. These sails are located on the dock box with the same combination as the regular Capri sails, and also have flotation built into the top of the sail.
Many other boats have an option to decrease the mainsail, called reefing. Our boats do not have this option. If caught unexpectedly by strong winds you can reduce the effect of the mainsail by luffing it slightly and maintaining proper jib trim. Sometimes you may want even less sail area. When this is the case, you may take down your jib and sail with just the mainsail. This is especially good is you are sailing single-handed. If you sail with the main only, you should raise the centerboard approximately 6 inches. This will move the center of lateral resistance (centerboard) back so it is more in balance with the center of effort (mainsail). This will not decrease the effectiveness of the centerboard but will reduce excessive weather helm.
When you are sailing on a reach in windy conditions you will also need to make some adjustments. Keeping your boat flat is important so ease your main. Sometimes you will need to move both you and crew a bit towards the back of the boat for stability. When reaching, you will continually adjust your sails, just in from luffing for optimum performance. If you need to luff your sails to control the boat when sailing off the wind, generally decrease power by luffing the main.
Sailing downwind in heavy air takes balance and a good awareness of the wind direction. Often sailing dead down wind is risky as your boat tends to roll and is easily capsized. Sail on more of a reaching course, and you may find your boat is easier to balance. Jibing can be difficult, and remember you can always tack “all the way” around to be safe.
Remember: Our Capri’s are not allowed or designed to sail in winds over 18 knots.
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Adjusting the Shape of Your Sails
As the wind speed increases, you can use three sail controls to change the shape of your mainsail to better suit the conditions. The object is to remove power from your sail by changing the shape from “full” or “baggy” to flat. (Imagine the round wings of a slow bi-plane and the flat wings of a jet fighter.)
First, tension the outhaul to pull the “bagginess” out of the foot of the mainsail. Second, tension the downhaul so as the wrinkles are removed from the luff of the main. The final item to tension is the boomvang. Adjustment of the boomvang is not obvious. The boomvang directly affects the leach of the mainsail. Proper adjustment is achieved when the top batten parallels the boom. If the vang is too loose, the top batten will point to leeward of the boom. Too tight an adjustment will result in the batten “hooking” to windward causing an excessive tight leach. In addition, too tight a boomvang will cause the boom to bow or possibly break. Proper adjustment of all three sail controls will project the greatest sail area in the most effective aerodynamic shape.
The jib halyard may also need to be adjusted as the wind increases. If it is too loose, there will be “scallops” between the jib hanks. If the halyard is too tight, there will be a vertical line or wrinkle extending along the luff. Proper sail shape will allow you to sail with more control, especially as the wind increases.
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53 Sailing Around a Course
Sailing around a set of buoys is a good way to practice your sailing skills, and can be the start to learning how to race. Learning how to round marks tests your ability to maneuver your boat in tight situations and helps you avoid accidents. Below is a typical course you might sail in a race, and it covers most points of sail.
Generally your first mark is to windward or up wind. For this course your first mark is “A”. You will sail close hauled as efficiently as you can. To do so you will need to make a series of tacks going upwind, until you are on the layline. A layline is a course that allows you to sail to the mark without making any more tacks to round it and head toward the next mark. In this case you are rounding to “port” so that the mark is on your port side.
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After you round mark “A”, you will let out your sails (since you are now sailing on a reach), and generally head directly towards the next mark “B”. When you get to “B” you will again round it to port, so you will jibe at the mark and head towards “C”. You will need to make a controlled jibe and remember to change sides as your sail crosses. When you get to “C” you again will round to port, and head back up to the point where you started. Again you will be sailing close hauled, and will have to make several tacks.
To round a downwind mark, like “C”, you can just pull in your sails, and continue on the same tack as you head back upwind. You can tack shortly if you need to, or tack at the mark. Do not head directly into the wind, since you will then stop and be stuck. As you round the mark, and are sailing closer to the wind, bring in your sails.
As you sail the course, remember to anticipate your next course, and plan ahead so you are adjusting your sails as you go. The goal is to sail “efficiently” and round the marks closely.
Alternate course: If you were just going to sail from “A” to “C”, you would be sailing downwind. This can be a bit more difficult, as sailing downwind your boat can be unstable, or easily jibe (this would be an accidentally jibe). One option is to sail slightly more on a reach down the channel, and then jibe, and sail again on a broad reach as you head towards the mark. This is referred to as “tacking downwind”. This usually helps prevent accidently jibes and if the wind direction shifts slightly you are more prepared.
Rating tests for UCISA include sailing around a course similar to these two courses.
Accidents and Collisions
Accidents or collisions should be avoided at all times. Treat UCI’s boats as if they are your own and take care to avoid situations that could cause accidents. Always keep a lookout even if you have the right of way. If you do have an accident, please follow these procedures:
1. Check to make sure that all persons involved are uninjured and on board. 2. Obtain the following information: a) CF number, boat type, docking location and boat name. b) Operator’s name, phone number and address. c) Names, addresses, phone numbers of any witnesses of those on board at the time.
55 3. Return immediately to the base and report to the dock master or rigger. If the dock master is not present, call the Sailing Office at (949) 824-7592 and leave a message regarding the accident as well as your name and a phone number where you can be reached within 24 hours. 4. Write a description of the accident and all-important details while it is still clear in your mind. 5. California Boating Accident Report Form: This form must be filled out by you, but do not turn it in to the Harbor Department. The form will be reviewed and turned in by the Boating Director. Completion of this form is legally required if over $500 in damage or injuries. Forms can be obtained from the dock master or Sailing Office.
For major collisions: these include cases where there is boat damage over $500 (boat damage adds up quickly), physical injuries or problems with the cooperation of the other party:
1. Follow the above procedure as well as the following additional rules. 2. Treat all medical emergencies (call the paramedics or Harbor Patrol (911) or (949-723-1002). A passing boat with a radio could assist with contacting the Harbor Patrol. We suggest you enter the Harbor Patrol number into your cell phone. 3. Wait at the scene (tie up if necessary) for Harbor Patrol. 4. Have the Harbor Patrol fill out an accident report, then return it to the base (the Harbor Patrol will provide assistance if the boat is disabled). 5. Call the Sailing Office as soon as possible to give a report, be sure to leave contact phone numbers.
This manual is meant to just give you the very basics of sailing. We hope you will continue to read and learn more as there is no limit to the information you can learn.
Glossary
Abeam: at an angle of approximately 90 degrees to the bow of the boat.
Aft: towards the stern or back of the boat.
Amidships: in or near the middle of the boat.
Apparent wind: the wind you feel on a moving boat. Apparent wind speed and direction is a combination of true wind and the wind generated by the boat’s movement.
Back winding: when you backwind a sail the wind hits it from the wrong side.
Batten: a wood or fiberglass stick used to support the aft edge of the mainsail.
56 Batten pocket: a pocket sewn into the edge of the sail to allow a batten to be inserted.
Beam: the width of the boat at the widest point.
Beam reaching: sailing at an angle of approximately 90 degrees to the wind.
Bear off: changing course away from the wind; same as falling off.
Beating: sailing at an angle of approximately 45 degrees to the wind or as close to the wind as possible.
Block: a pulley through which line or wire passes on a boat.
Bolt rope: a rope which is sewn into the luff and sometimes the foot of a sail, so that it may be attached to the spars (mast and boom).
Boom: a pole which supports the mainsail along its lower edge.
Boomvang: a rope or wire which pulls the boom down as the boat sails on a reach or run.
Bow: the front of a boat.
Bowline: a knot used to tie a fixed size loop in the end of a line.
Broad reaching: sailing at an angle of approximately 135 degrees to the wind.
By-the-lee: sailing downwind with the wind coming slightly from the leeward side of the boat.
Cam cleat: a common type of cleat with two spring loaded jaws which hold the line.
Capsizing: overturning the boat while sailing.
Centerboard: a pivoting board located in the center of the boat which keeps the boat from sliding sideways through the water.
Centerboard well: housing for the centerboard, located in the middle of the cockpit.
Cleat: a device used for securing a line.
Cleat hitch: a knot used for securing a line to a cleat.
Clew: the lower rear corner of a sail.
Close reaching: sailing at an angle of approximately 70 degrees to the wind; this is often the fastest point of sail in a small boat.
Cockpit: the section of the boat where the tiller, seats and most control gear is located.
Coming about: heading towards the wind until the sail changes sides and fills on the other side; same as tacking.
Deck: the flat, forward part of the boat.
Dinghy: a small open boat.
Downhaul: a line used to pull down the forward edge of a sail.
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Draft: 1. the depth of a boat beneath the water 2. The amount of fullness in the sail on the forward/aft curve.
Fairlead: an eye through which line is passed.
Falling off: changing course with bow moving further from the eye of the wind.
Figure-eight knot: a knot used to keep the end of a line from slipping through a fairlead or other rigging (a stop knot).
Foot: the bottom edge of a sail.
Forward: towards the bow of the boat.
Freeboard: the distance between gunwale and waterline of a boat.
Give way vessel: the vessel, in a collision situation that alters course to avoid the collision.
Gooseneck: a fitting which connects the mast and the boom.
Gudgeon: a fitting, usually on the transom of a small boat, which connects the rudder to the transom of the boat.
Gunwale: a strip which runs along the corner of the hull and deck of the boat.
Gybe: (also spelled jibe) to change tacks by turning the boat so that the wind passes across the stern. When running downwind the boom swings from one side to the other.
Halyard: a line used to raise the sail. Main halyard, jib halyard, etc.
Hank: a fitting used to attach the luff of the jib to the headstay.
Head: the top corner of a sail.
Header: a change in wind direction so that the eye of the wind shifts towards the bow of the boat.
Heading up: changing course, bow closer to the eye of the wind.
Headstay: the standing rigging at the bow of the boat. Keeps the mast from falling backwards, also called jib stay or forestay.
Headway: forward momentum.
Heeling: tipping in a sailboat, but not necessarily to the point of a capsize.
Helm: another name for the tiller, or steering device.
Hiking out: while sitting on the rail, leaning out over the side of a boat in order to prevent excessive heeling.
Hull: the shell or body of the boat.
In irons: being stuck facing into the wind without enough momentum to change direction or stopped in the “no go” zone.
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Jib: a small forward sail on some boats.
Jib halyard: a line or wire used to hoist the jib.
Jibing: bearing away from the wind until the sail changes sides and fills the other side; also called gybing.
Jib sheet: a line used to adjust the jib in and out.
Jib stay: the wire which supports the mast from the bow of a boat.
Keel: the permanent weight which protrudes into the water beneath the boat (dinghies often have a moveable centerboard or leeboard rather that a keel).
Keelboat: a boat that has a weighted keel for stability and to prevent leeway (instead of a centerboard).
Lazy sheet: the jib sheet which is not being used (should be slack).
Leach: (also spelled leech) the back edge of a sail.
Leeward: the side of the boat which is away from the wind, or the side that the boom is on.
Leeward helm: a tendency for a boat to bear off of the wind by itself.
Leeway: side slippage through the water by the boat.
Lift: a change in wind direction so that the eye of the wind shifts aft, allowing you to head up.
Line: most ropes used on a boat.
Loose-footed: a mainsail which is connected to the boom only at lower corners, like our cut- down main sails.
Luff: the forward edge of a sail. Also means to allow your sails to flutter.
Main halyard: a line which pulls the mainsail to the top of the mast.
Mainsail: the sail which fits between the mast and boom, the main propulsion in most boats.
Mainsheet: a line used to adjust the mainsail in and out.
Mast: the vertical pole to which sails are attached.
Mast step: a fitting in a boat in which the lower end of the mast is secured.
Outhaul: a line used to pull out the bottom edge of a sail along the boom.
Painter: a line used to secure a boat to a dock or mooring, also simply called the bow line.
Pinching: sailing slightly closer to the wind than is efficient, with the sails pulled in too tightly.
Pintel: a fitting, usually on a rudder, which connects the rudder to the transom of the boat.
Planning: skimming over the water in a lightweight boat, usually in medium to strong winds.
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Point of sail: a term used to specify the boat’s position relative to the wind.
Pointing: sailing at an angle of approximately 45 degrees to the wind, or as close to the wind as possible.
Port: the left side of the boat, while facing forward in the boat.
Port tack: sailing with the wind coming over the port side and mainsail on starboard side.
Reach: 1. Any course between a beat and a run. 2. To sail on such a course.
Roach: the extra area of a mainsail due in the curve in the leach of the sail.
Round up: to head sharply and unexpectedly into the wind, usually because of excessive weather helm.
Rudder: a board located at or near the stern of a boat used to change the boat’s course through the water.
Running: sailing at an angle of approximately 180 degrees to the wind.
Shackle: a clip used for attaching lines or sails quickly.
Shock cord: a stretchy cord consisting of many thin pieces of rubber.
Shroud: a wire at the side of a boat which supports the mast.
Sloop: a boat with one mainsail and one jib.
Slot: the area between the jib and the main that allows wind flow between the sails. Both sails must be trimmed properly for the slot to be open and effective.
Spar: a general name for a pole such as a mast, boom, spinnaker pole, whisker pole, etc.
Spreaders: sticks which attach to the mast at right angles and help distribute the stress on shrouds.
Stand on vessel: the boat is a right of way situation that should maintain its current course. The other vessel should alter course to avoid a collision.
Square knot: a knot used for tying two lines together, particularly when they are of equal diameter.
Standing rigging: rigging which supports the mast, including the shrouds and the stays.
Stemhead fitting: a plate at or near the bow of the boat, to which the jib stay and jib tack are secured.
Starboard: the right hand side of the boat while facing forward in the boat.
Starboard tack: sailing with the wind coming over the starboard side and the mainsail on the port side.
Stern: the back end of the boat.
60 Tacking: heading towards the winds until the sail changes sides and fills on the other side; same as coming about.
Tiller: a stick attached to the rudder which helps to steer the boat.
Tiller extension: a stick which extends the length and changes the angle of the tiller for convenience while sailing.
Transom: the flat section at the back of the boat. On most small boats, the rudder is attached to the transom.
Traveler: the device that allows the adjustment of sheeting angle for various wind conditions (our Capri’s use a non adjustable rope traveler).
True wind: the wind velocity and wind direction felt on a stationary object.
Turtling: capsizing the boat so that it is completely upside down.
Wake: the wave created by a boat as it moves through the water.
Waterline: the line on the hull at which the boat floats in the water.
Weather helm: tendency of the boat to head up into the wind (opposite of lee helm).
Whisker pole: a pole which is attached to the jib and the mast while running wing-and-wing.
Windward: the side of a boat over which the wind is blowing, or the opposite side of the boom.
Wing-and-wing: running downwind with the jib and mainsail on opposite sides.
APPENDIX
UCI SAILING PROGRAM RULES
These are the general rules and policies. There are additional rules that apply to personal boat use under the UCI Sailing Association membership. All persons using the UCI boats must have swimming ability, which is defined as the “ability to swim 50 yards, and tread water for 10 minutes.” You also need to feel comfortable swimming in the bay or ocean. In addition all participants must WEAR Coast Guard approved life jackets (PFD’s) at all times when sailing.
1. Unsafe, dangerous, or negligent behavior will not be tolerated.
61 2. Alcoholic beverages are not permitted at the Sailing Base or in UCI boats. 3. UCI Capri 14’s shall not be sailed in winds over 18 knots. Use good judgment in windy or rough conditions. 4. Capri 14’s cannot be sailed under any bridges in Newport Harbor. 5. UCI Capri 14’s are not to be sailed after dark. 6. UCI Capri 14’s may not be sailed in the ocean or in the area bounded by the rock jetties. 7. Damage to boats must be logged and promptly reported to the UCI dock master or rigger at the Sail base, or you must call the UCI Campus Recreation Boating Director (Tel: 949-824-7592). Be sure to get a name, address, phone number from anyone involved in the collision; along with location of boat’s dock, CF number, etc. 8. No unauthorized use of the boats is allowed.
Helpful Websites
The UCISA sailing Club website has a variety of helpful links for weather, tides, knots, rules, clubs and additional basic sailing materials. Please go to: www.sailingclub.net American Red Cross: www.redcross.org California Department of Boating and Waterways: www.dbw.ca.gov Weather links: www.accuweather.com www.wunderground.com Tides: Http://tidesonline.nos.noaa.gov Newport Beach Harbor Patrol: http://www.ocsd.org/divisions/homeland_security/harbor/newport/ US Sailing: www.USsailing.org
Revised 4/1/10
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