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FIRING ORDER !"#$%#&%'()*+*),-.(-%&-

/0"12$(*#(%3)%&&,4%(5%*'("6(7'%*8%'(+",#-&(7%(%3+%',%#)%$9()0%)8(-0*-(-0%()"#$%#&%'()*+*),-.(,&(#"-(2"5%' Ignition firing-0*#(:;<:( orderȝ=(,;%;(%4%'(<:>(2%&&(-0*#(,-&('*-%$()*+*),-.(?:;<@( is: 1-3-4-2. Check it threeȝ=A(B*'8%$("#(-0%()"#$%#&%'(7"$.; times, then check it again. Rotate the engine to TDC on #1 power ( lobes point outwards and valves closed). The rotor should point to #1 wire terminal on the distributor cap and the C7a CHECKING THE DISTRIBUTOR (Marelli S 103 B or S 103 BA) AND THE IGNITION TIM- rotorING should be pointed toward the front of the . Then move clockwise around the distributor cap checking that the wires are in the same 1-3-4-2 order. Dwell meter should read between 57 and 63 degrees, with new points closed, corresponding to .017 to .019’ (.43 to .48 mm) gap.

Smear the distributor cam with grease. Check the inside of distributor cap IGNITIONfor any sign TIMING of moisture, carbon deposits or cracks and the central power electrode for free movement in its seat and for effective spring action. The Finallyignition check timing cap should terminals be checkedfor good whenconditions. the engine is warmed up to operating temperature (coolant exceeding 158°F; 70°C) by using a . At idleThe speedignition the timing timing should should be bechecked 5 to 7 when degrees the engineATDC, is that warmed is the up markto oper- “F” on the pulleyating should temperature be in line (coolant with theexceeding pointer 158°F; or .04” 70°C) (1 mm) by using apart a eithertiming side. light. At idle speed the timing should be 5 to 7 degrees ATDC, that is the mark “F” on the pulley should be in line with the pointer or .04” (1 mm) apart either Withside. the engine running with no load at 5,000 rpm, the ignition advance should be 27 to 33 degrees, that is the mark “M” on the pulley should be in line with the pointer or .12” With the engine running with no load at 5,000 rpm, the ignition advance (3 mm)should apart be 27either to 33side. degrees, that is the mark “M” on the pulley should be in

Fig. 6 - IGNITION TIMINGIgnition Timing

line with the pointer or .12” (3 mm) apart either side.

Timing at idle speed must be adjusted with special care as it Timing adjustment (maximum accuracy required) affects the emission levels great- ly. If the timing requires adjustment, proceed as follows: Timing adjustment (maximum accuracy required) Unscrew the distributor securing nut (1) or the If the timing requires adjustment, stud so as to allow the distributor to be rotated proceed as follows: together with its supporting clamp, then rotate the Unscrew the distributor securing distributor body counterclockwise or clockwise nut (1) or the stud so as to allow accordingly to whether it is necessary to the distributor to be rotated together with its supporting clamp, respectively advance “A” or retard “R” the then rotate the distributor body ignition setting. Retighten the nut (1), taking care counterclockwise or clockwise not to move the distributor or body. Recheck accordingly to whether it is neces- Fig. 7 - IGNITION TIMING ADJUSTMENT sary to respectively advance “A” or timing. retard “R” the ignition setting; SPICA ADJUSTMENTS Retighten the nut (1), taking care not to move the distributor or body; Recheck timing. When tuning the Spica system, it must be done in lockstep order because the next setting in the procedure relies on the previous one being correct.. In the event of reinstallation or renewal of the distributor, refer to the directions given on paragraph C7b. 1. Check the pump timing. Remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine so that it's at TDC with the #4 (number FOUR, that's the rearmost ) just beginning the power C7b REPLACING THE DISTRIBUTOR stroke, i.e. pointer pointing at the "P" mark, both valves closed, and the at the top of the stroke. When reinstalling or renewing the distributor, perform the following proce- dure; This setting will equate to 70o BTDC on the stroke of the No. 1 (number ONE) Rotate the crankshaft to bring no. 1 cylindercylinder. piston The proper to the pump compression timing is 70 BTDC on No 1. We use the No. 4 on Power stroke that is with both valves closed;Stroke TDC because it's easier to see through the spark plug hole and less chance of By slightly rotating the crankshaft, bringmaking the a fixedmistake. advance mark “F” on pulley into line with the reference pointer; Fit the supporting clamp into the distributorThen rotate body the and engine tighten CCW the (as clamp you stand in front of the car looking rearwards) to line just snug; up the "I" mark. (Normal engine rotation is CW.) The "I" stands for Ineizione (Italian for "Injection"). It's a 70 deg rotation from the "P" mark (Italian "Punto" or point = TDC). Remove distributor cap and rotate the drive shaft by hand to bring the rotor arm in line with the contact for no. 1 Seecylinder; pictures.

As a trial installation, place the distributorThen check on thatengine the timingand move mark the on sup- the Spica pulley lines up with the indented line on porting clamp so that the stud is centeredthe front in the of theclamp injection slot pumpwhen thecasting. con- They should line up within a half spline. tact-breaker points are about to open for no. 1 cylinder;

Then, remove the distributor with its supportingThe timing clamp, does taking NOT stretchcare not hardly to at all. If you stretch the belt with serious prying, disturb the distributor body/clamp settingyou canand breaklock the internalclamp inbelt place; reinforcing threads. The belt should slip on the earlier Reinstall the distributor and adjust timingmodel as pulleys. directed A little on paragraphsoapy water C7a. or WD40 may help slide it on. If you have a later model pulley with ridges, you'll have to remove the pulley, put on the belt, then slip the pulley back on the pump shaft and tighten the nut.

2. And it is important that the stop screws are set correctly, because that sets the delta between the short and long rod throw. Some owners mistakenly use the idle stop screw to adjust the idle speed. This is completely incorrect. Both the idle stop and wide- open stop screws are set to a factory jig setting and should remain that way and not be adjusted willy-nilly

3. The long and short rods need to be readjusted in order to get the right "delta" between the two. For the short rod, first make sure that the throttle bores between the front and rear set are sync'd. The butterflies should be "just" touching the bores (just fully closed without digging into the bores). Adjust the short rod to so that with the relay on the idle stop, and the throttle butterflies fully closed, there's no/tiny play in the short rod.

4. Set the pump gap to exactly .019" with the long rod DISCONNECTED and the engine at 175 F coolant temperature. This sets the pump back to a standard starting point calibration. If the gap is off, change the gap by adjusting the screw in the pump body under the TA; clockwise to increase clearance, counter-clockwise to decrease it.

5. Reconnect the long rod and warm up the engine to full temp. The gap will likely go to zero as the TA continues to extend as the engine continues to warm from 175 F to 190 F or so, the TA will continue to protrude and drive the pump gap to zero. This is normal and expected. Then with the engine at full operating temperature adjust the long rod to bring the pump gap back to .019." The long rod will now be holding the pump gap at .019" and not the TA. There will likely be a little tension on the long rod holding the gap open.

The significance of the .019" number is that is the rotation at which increased fuel delivery starts on the 3D Camoid. If the pump gap is not set back to .019" with the long rod and instead is left at zero, there will be a slight dead spot in throttle movement before increased fuel delivery starts.

6. Set the fuel mixture. Detach the micro-switch wire from the Fuel Cutoff Solenoid. Loosen the lock nut on the solenoid. With the engine running, hold the throttle open to obtain a steady 2500 rpm. Turn the solenoid in (clockwise) to lean the mixture until the engine slows down. Mark this position on the lock nut.

Unscrew the solenoid (counter-clockwise) to richen the mixture until the engine slows down again. Mark this position.

Divide the two reference marks in half and set the solenoid to this position. Lock the solenoid in place and reattach the micro-switch wire.

If necessary, completely remove the FCS. First, count the number of turns to remove it so you can return it back to its original setting, if needed. From loose, turn the FCS in 9.5 turns, this will be a useful starting point for the above checks.

If the engine backfires upon deceleration, hook up a test light between the wire to the FCS and the terminal on top the FCS. Rev the engine to about 3000 rpm and drop the throttle back to idle. The light should come on (indicating the FCS is energized thus cutting off fuel) then go out (restoring fuel) at about 1300-1600 rpm.

7. Check that the Cold Start Solenoid is adjusted so that there's about a 1/4" gap between the base of the CSS can and the logic section casting. Adjust if necessary.

Test the CSS by running a test lead from the positive (+) battery terminal and touching the CSS spade terminal on top. You should hear an audible "click" when energized and de-energized. Only energize the CSS for a few seconds at a time. Do this a few times. The solenoid can overheat if left energized for long periods. It's possible that the plastic hydraulic piston in there is gummed up and sticking.

If the engine is hard to start and everything else is OK, disconnect the CSS wire and try running without it. The CSS isn't absolutely necessary anyway. Caution: If you leave the CSS wire off, be sure to tape it good. There's no fuse in that circuit and if turn the key switch to "START" and that terminal is grounded, you're going to fry the ignition key switch.

NOTE: If the logic section of the SPICA pump is dry, that could cause the CSS to stick. Check the oil level in the logic section by removing the barometric compensator and look down into the pump to check the oil level. Also, smell the BC capsule for traces of stale gas that would indicate a leaking pump section. If the logic section is pretty dry or if the oil has never been changed, use a big syringe with a tube and suck out a lot of the old oil. Pour in about a half pint of clean engine oil. Don't worry about the level, there's an self- leveling overflow port in the pump where the excess will just drain into the oil pan. At the very least, just add some fresh oil overtop the old.

STARTING TECHNIQUE

When cold: press slightly (maybe about 1") on the accelerator and hold it there until the engine starts. Pumping the accelerator does nothing, as there is no accelerator pump, like on , to squirt gas into the manifold.

When hot: don't press initially, but only if the engine doesn't fire after several revolutions on the .