VISITING CAPITALS 72 hours in

Friday 1 MARKET Half car boot sale, half chic Parisian flea market, is the place where the dealers come to stock up on china, silver, furniture and glassware. Located in , a stone’s throw from , the market boasts 200-odd stalls, now also including food, fashion and craft. Dealers frequent the market knowing it is the best place to find quality antiques and interesting artefacts and every visitor who makes a bargain deal will understand why they keep it a secret. Discover timeless antique china alongside Victorian photos, rare furniture with mystic engravings and perfect retro decor for your home. And if you are in the market for glassware, these age-old streets will certainly also provide. But, be warned, arrive early; deals are done quickly and vendors begin packing away in the afternoon. And with no tube lines running at this time, research a bus route or even book a taxi.

Where: 5b Market, London SE10 9HZ, United Kingdom When: Monday to Sunday, LONDON calling 10am-5.30pm Web: www.greenwichmarketlondon.com With its ancient history, colourful markets and fi ne shops, London is a veritable treasure WHERE TO STAY Bermondsey Square Hotel is the perfect chest for a long weekend’s antique and art location from which to explore the antiques markets of . Bermondsey hunting - Nicholas Martin lifts the lid antiques market is on its doorstep (in fact it takes place on the square outside), Greenwich rom the colour, character and works of art and fi ne antiques can secure Market is a half-hour bus ride away (188) and enthusiastic clamour of Portobello exquisite items such as Tang dynasty getting to Camden Passage, and is an easy hop on the 47 Road on a Saturday morning - the porcelain and Chippendale masterpieces. world’s largest antiques market with Meanwhile, in other districts, bustling F Subscribers can save 10 percent off their 1,000 dealers - to the reassuredly refi ned markets offer the chance to bag in vogue bar bill and 15 percent off the cost of dining at vintage furniture at bargain prices. air of Kensington’s Church Street, London’s the Bermondsey Square Hotel, simply quote range of markets, shops and galleries is as And, with its long history of trade and ‘B2Antiques’ when booking. Reservations diverse and eclectic as every other facet opportunity, expert hagglers can discover must be made directly with hotel, email of this global city. Well-heeled and wealthy that London’s streets are still paved with [email protected] visitors who fl ock to London in search of rare gold - if you know where to look.

30 ANTIQUE COLLECTING 2 GREENWICH MARKET 4 ALFIES ANTIQUES Welcome to one of London’s finest covered markets and the only one set inside a World MARKET Heritage Site. Greenwich Market’s seven- Located just south west of Regent’s Park, day bonanza brings you 120 stalls showing Alfies Antiques Market is London’s largest anything and everything. From antiques and indoor antiques market (35,000 sq feet) collectables to independent boutiques and and a treasure trove of individual shops. well-known fashion brands, Greenwich is the Alfies hosts a bustling indoor market with perfect balance of vintage pieces and modern a bohemian chic atmosphere that’s great designs. Antiques and collectables are the for decorative and unusual antiques, order of business on Mondays, Tuesdays, vintage and collectables. With close to 2 Thursdays and Fridays. Fridays are jam- 100 dealers over the building’s four floors, packed as the craft and design team also for over 30 years Alfies has attracted One of the most famous joins the fun. Antique days are noticeably serious collectors, interior designers and antiques markets in the Insider smaller than the busy weekends. However even celebrities. Overall, Alfies offers world, every weekend this doesn’t detract from the quality. More a good blend of houseware, clothing, thousands of tourists tip than 40 stalls and local antique shops selling and furniture – much of it mid-century and locals descend on Ollie & Bow (69 20th-century bespoke and restored pieces, fill modern design and art deco. Notting Hill to search Portobello Road) specialises in the hall. And shipping is offered on any item for delectable antiques, architectural oddments Where: 13-25 Church Street, Marylebone, exquisite vintage fashion that is too big to carry home. and old furniture London, NW8 8DT and finest jewellery from Where: 5b Greenwich Market, When: Tuesday to Saturday 10am-6pm over 1,000 dealers. London SE10 9HZ, United Kingdom Web: www.alfiesantiques.com Although open seven days When: Monday to Sunday, a week, it’s the weekend when the 10am-5.30pm streets really come alive with an estimated Web: www.greenwichmarketlondon.com 1 CAMDEN Saturday 100,000 visitors. Exit the tube station and discover a mile-long strip of stalls, arcades PASSAGE and shops to satisfy all visitors. A quaint, pedestrianised passage with over Antiques, of course, are the main 200 antique dealers trading in anything from attraction of Portobello Road, with a rich Staffordshire pottery to antique door handles. heritage dating back to the 1940s. Each Not to be confused with , vendor is a specialist in a certain field and Camden Passage in is London’s together they have hundreds of items on premier antiques village. With four separate offer. Friday and Saturday buzz with energy, markets serving different areas, take your Vintage bargain hunters should head to the time to experience the mounds of sparkling north end of Portobello Green and the never- trinkets, vintage clothing rarities and scarce ending selection of vintage clothes rails. At first editions. One of the markets - Pierrepont the southern end, the antique stalls are laden Arcade is a covered area towards the far with beautiful old relics and ornate vintage 3 GRAYS ANTIQUE end of the passage offering antique gifts and furniture. Come early, 7.30-8am is best. From CENTRE designer costume jewellery. 11.30am onwards not only are the streets fit Camden Passage is a wonderful place to to bursting, many of the antique bargains will Located just five minutes from , browse if you are not looking for anything in have gone, with lots of dealers packing up. Grays Antique Centre offers an entertaining particular. A short rummage through the stalls antique-hunting experience among 200 and you will certainly find a gem, or simply Where: independent dealers selling a broad array of take pleasure in a few hours away from the Portobello Road, London, W11 When: collectable, antique and vintage items. bustle of the city. Monday to Saturday 9am-6pm Housed in a stunning red terracotta Web: www.portobelloroad.co.uk building, the centre claims to be “one of the world’s largest and most diverse collections of fine antiques, jewellery, and vintage fashion”. And while the emphasis is very much on antique silver, watches and jewellery, there are a number of stalls that specialise in militaria, porcelain, English ephemera, glass, tribal & Asian art, ethnic items and general antiques. Vendors located downstairs showcase fabulous vintage clothing and costume jewellery.

Where: 58 Davies Street and 1-7 Davies Where: Camden Passage, Islington, Mews, London, W1K 5AB London, N1 8EA When: Monday to Saturday 10am-6pm When: Various times Web: www.graysantiques.com Web: www.camdenpassageislington.co.uk

ANTIQUE COLLECTING 31 VISITING CAPITALS 72 hours in London

What areas are currently selling well Q with you? Lighting has suddenly taken off. It might A sound odd but, come the autumn, when people start switching the lights on, lighting Q&A becomes a top seller. At the moment it’s 1950s Sunday Italian floor lamps, as well as ceiling lights. Popular furniture at the moment is earlier – Nick Jones specialises from the 1820s-1900. People don’t buy in the in 18th to 20th-century 1 antiques at his shop same way they used to. Today the criteria is how it will look in the home. People might The Brick Lane flea market is not simply in Church Street, buy more than one, say, Clarice Cliff vase a street filled with market booths, it is Marylebone. He is a but it would be because they look good on a a network of five connected markets, regular exhibitor at the particular table, not because they collect art known as The Truman Markets. These thrice yearly Decorative Fair in Battersea deco ceramics. markets are located within the confines of the historic If money was no object which area/ Where are your favourite antique 11-acre Old Truman Insider shops should you head for? hunting grounds in London? Brewery, at the north Q Q For me, there are so many really Portobello market on a Saturday, but tip end of Brick Lane. fantastic shops on Church Street you need to get there early because Nearby Labour & Wait Of these the Tea A A that I wouldn’t have to stray far from it’s pretty much over by 11.30am; the fairs at (85 Redchurch St) sells Rooms and the Marylebone. But, slightly farther away, Alexandra Palace; the “Horti” Sunday fairs at old-fashioned hardware Vintage Markets are including enamelware I would recommend M Charpentier in the Royal Horticultural Halls, Elverton Street, the most interesting, and storage jars Lillie Road, Fulham. It’s run by Alix and are terrific and the Decorative Fair Battersea offering an eclectic Camilla Charpentier who grew up dealing is a must visit. In fact, if I had one tip it would collection of antiques in antiques and have the most amazing be for visitors to coincide their visit with the and collectables. eye. They stock an eclectic mix – from Decorative Fair. All the exhibitors, including decorative furniture, to mercury mirrors myself, take new stock previously unseen. I’m Where: Brick Lane, , and garden ornaments and just get it right. taking a pair of Spanish green-veined marbled London, E1 6QL They have innate style. Another dealer on console tables and a pair of gilt mirrors When: Friday to Sunday 11am-5pm my list would be Schmid McDonagh, here in decorated with gilt feathers. It’s a chance for Web: www.visitbricklane.org Church Street – again another dealer with dealers to showcase their stock to interior an excellent eye. Another must-visit dealer, designers, as well impress potential new 2 OLD SPITALFIELDS also in Church Street, is the legendary clients – so there are some wonderful things Simon Sprake whose style I really admire. on show, all of which are vetted. MARKET His striking window displays are worth a trip Open seven days a week with specialist on their own. His shop is notorious among Can you recommend any museums or market days and one-off monthly events, Londoners ‘in the know’ for having some Q art galleries that are a must for antique collectors can rummage around the eclectic unbelievable treasures. He specialises in lovers? mix of antique gems, vintage fashion and fine one-of-a-kind items from fantastical French If you are looking to develop an eye, art dealers. From antique walking sticks to and English furniture to voodoo dolls. A or learn about craftsmanship there is old-fashioned shipping maps, to the endless no better place to start than museums. I love rows of quality sterling silver jewellery What about if you were on a budget? the for its antiquites. Also Spitalfields offers something for everyone. No Q One dealer who springs to mind and the Sir John Soane’s Museum wonder, then, that Londoners join thousands A is Andrew Collier but, because in Lincoln Inn Fields. The , of tourists to visit this modern development he is based in Nottingham, you’d have to which is open seven days a week and free of 150 stalls of vendors from across the globe. time your visit to coincide with when he is to enter, is an absolute must for anyone Plus the street food on offer is terrific. at one of the London fairs. He specialises interested in antiques. in oddities, curiosities and gentlemen’s paraphernalia and his stuff is not only great, Nick Jones’ shop can be found at 34 Church but really, really affordable. You could start Street, London NW8 8EP, call a collection with Andrew for £20. 020 7723 1555, or follow him on Instagram @ nick_jones_antiques. For more details on What antiques do you collect? the Decorative Fair Battersea visit www. Q Bronze sculptural figures. I’m decorativefair.com, or read our preview A not sure how it happened but on page 54. my home is full of them. I don’t collect for the sake of it, I buy things that I love. if Where: ‘Stephen Sprake’s 16 Horner Square, London, E1 6EW you just collect one thing you are rather When: Monday to Sunday 10am-5pm restricted. I’ll buy anything from a Chinese Web: shop is notorious www.oldspitalfieldsmarket.com screen to a piece of German ceramics. I am also a great fan of Empire furniture and now among Londoners Nicholas Martin is the founder of is a great time to buy. I recently bought a “in the know” for its fleamarketinsiders.com an online guide to the Queen Anne chest, a few years ago it would world’s best flea markets. have cost £12,000, I bought it for £3,000. treasures’

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