DOCSLIB.ORG

Volume 31 # January 2015

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Volume 31 # January 2015 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER l Volume 31 January 2015 Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic cross the ridge from north summit of Hagshu to its main summit (6657m). [Photo] Marko Prezelj THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER Contents From the Editor’s Laptop ................................................................................................................ 3 Climbs and Explorations Sikkim and Nepal Himalaya Kangchenjunga - North Ridge – 04 ........................................................................................ 4 Climbs in Rolwaling Himal ......................................................................................................... 5 Attempts on Nuptse South Face ................................................................................................ 6 First Ascent of Sakathon .......................................................................................................... 0 Kumaun and Garhwal Explorations in Eastern Girthi Ganga valley and Janti Gad valley of Garhwal. ...................... 11 Himachal Pradesh Meanderings in Great Himalayan National Park: Jiwa Nal – Parvati Valley Trek .................... 12 Exploration and Climbs in Spiti ................................................................................................ 6 Kishtawar Climbs on Hagshu .................................................................................................................... 7 First ascent of Shiepra, Kharagosa and a new line on Kishtawar Shivling east ..................... 9 Karakoram Ascent of K7 West and Badal Peak in Charakusa Valley ........................................................ 21 Mountains and Climate Change Effect of Hudhud ............................................................................................................................. 3 Why Did So Many Die on the Annapurna Trail? ............................................................................. 6 A Himalayan disaster awaits India .................................................................................................. 8 The Engineer Who Is Creating Ice Stupas to Solve the Water Problems of People in Ladakh .... 9 The Dangerous Beauty of the Himalaya ......................................................................................... 3 Shrinking glaciers won’t affect South Asia water availability ......................................................... 3 Researchers predict more runoff in High Asia due to increasing precipitation and glacier melt ....................................................................................... 33 Simulation explains why Asian glaciers are not melting ................................................................ 33 The Himalayan Club – Delhi Section ............................................................................................ 35 News & Views Use of ‘chalk’ in rock climbing: sine qua non or myth? ................................................................. 35 Commercialization of Mountains Reaches a New Height .............................................................. 36 A New Federation of Mountain Protected Area .............................................................................. 36 Hundreds of Mountaineers Climb the Alps for Epic Photo-shoot .................................................. 37 Another book from our President Emeritus’ pen............................................................................ 37 On Language Location. .................................................................................................................. 38 An Appeal for Anonymous Survey .................................................................................................. 38 ​​Awards Indian Mountaineering Foundation Awards ................................................................................... 39 UIAA Achievement Award ............................................................................................................... 40 Forthcoming Events The Himalayan Club Annual Seminar 2015 ............................................................................. 42 Indian Mountaineering Foundation Events ............................................................................. 45 Obituaries Dr. J. de Villiers Graaff .................................................................................................................... 45 Office bearers of the Himalayan Club for the year 2014 .............................................................. 46 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER From the Editor’s Laptop Dear friends and fellow members, Times they are A changin’ I am happy to share with you the 3st Volume of the Himalayan Club E-Letter. Besides the news, climbs and explorations, club events, obituaries and other regular columns, I have introduced a column which would cover a topic of current relevance. For mountaineers, explorers and inhabitants of mountains, the weather and climate are quite central to their existence and safety as well as to their success or failure. It is reasonably well accepted that climate change compared to 50 or 00 years ago is for real and is mitigated by anthropogenic activities (human created activities). In last 50-00 years, mankind has extracted fossil fuels from earth and burnt them. It has exposed the environment to more than a million chemical entities which the environment had not experienced before. As a consequence, the effects on environment are inevitable and sadly, quite disastrous. This in turn has led to extremes and sudden changes in climates with disastrous results. The tragedy on Kedarnath last year and recurring accidents on Everest route are partly attributed to climate change. This issue captures some of the effects of climate change. I have covered the disaster due to a freak cyclone Hudhud which claimed more than 40 lives on the Annapurna circuit – a huge disaster by any standards. I also have a note on the dangers to glacial lakes due to climate change. Any changes which bring new findings is always of interest to the scientific community – I have addressed that with three interesting articles on glaciers and watershed studies in the Himalaya. Human ingenuity has no bounds and that is captured in a lovely BBC show about emerging wilderness in Himalaya due to geological effects and climate change - The Dangerous Beauty of the Himalaya and lastly the ingenuity of mankind – Sonam Wangchuk’s approach to solve the emerging water crisis in Ladakh - Ice Stupas. I must also mention that the Himalayan Club’s 05 annual seminar is also packed with some very interesting talks, so do not miss it! It will be held on February 4 and 5, 05 in Mumbai. It is the stories which make mountains memorable. In this connected age, members want to be connected and hear stories. So please email your experiences, I would be happy to share them with fellow mountain enthusiasts through the Himalayan Club e-letter. Yes, Times They are A Changin’. Yes, climate change is real. Let’s accept it as a new dimension of our future adventures and learn to enjoy and deal prudently with it. Warm Regards, Ravi Mariwala [email protected] 3 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER Climbs and Explorations Sikkim and Nepal Himalaya Kangchenjunga - North Ridge – 2014 Dennis Urubko reached the summit of Kangchenjunga via the North Ridge, climbing solo above 7650m.The expedition did not use supplementary oxygen, but used fixed ropes on the difficult face that gives access to the North Ridge, and also on a short section of the ridge. Kangchenjunga is the 3rd highest mountain in the world and was climbed for the first time in 955. The North Ridge was first climbed in 979 by Pete Boardman, Doug Scott and Joe Tasker. It has been climbed a number of times since then. Many of these ascents have followed variations to the 979 access route to the ridge, generally involving greater objective danger but lower technical difficulty. Denis Urubko (Russia) made his lone ascent as part of a team that also included Adam Bielecki (Poland), Artem Braun (Russia), Dimtry Sinev (Russia) and Alex Txikon (Basque Country, Spain). They had initially intended to attempt an alpine-style ascent of a new route on the North West Face, and to use the 979 route for acclimatisation. On reaching the mountain they found that conditions were unsuitable for the North West Face, and decided not to focus entirely on the 979 route. The team established a new variation on the access route to the ridge, involving 8 pitches of technical climbing, with Camp on the face at around 6600m. They gained the ridge above the North Col, establishing Camp 3 at 7050m. They then established Camp 4 on the ridge at 7650m. On 8 May they set out on a summit bid. Urubko and Braun turned back at about 7850m, having decided that conditions were too dangerous. Sinev, Bielecki and Txikon continued upwards, fixing a rope in a difficult section up a steep couloir. At 4.30pm they reached an altitude of around 8400- 8500m and decided to turn back, thinking it was too late in the day to continue to the summit safely. On the following day, 9 May, Denis Urubko set out again from Camp 4 and reached the summit in just four and a half hours - an exceptional performance. All the climbers descended safely. Kangchenjunga NW face, with 979 route (red) and projected 04 route (blue) Photo:http://polakpotrafi.pl/projekt/kanczendzonga Adapted from Himalayan Masala 4 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER Climbs in Rolwaling Himal Located near the border of
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Mountaineering Books Under £10
    Mountaineering Books Under £10 AUTHOR TITLE PUBLISHER EDITION CONDITION DESCRIPTION REFNo PRICE AA Publishing Focus On The Peak District AA Publishing 1997 First Edition 96pp, paperback, VG Includes walk and cycle rides. 49344 £3 Abell Ed My Father's Keep. A Journey Of Ed Abell 2013 First Edition 106pp, paperback, Fine copy The book is a story of hope for 67412 £9 Forgiveness Through The Himalaya. healing of our most complicated family relationships through understanding, compassion, and forgiveness, peace for ourselves despite our inability to save our loved ones from the ravages of addiction, and strength for the arduous yet enriching journey. Abraham Guide To Keswick & The Vale Of G.P. Abraham Ltd 20 page booklet 5890 £8 George D. Derwentwater Abraham Modern Mountaineering Methuen & Co 1948 3rd Edition 198pp, large bump to head of spine, Classic text from the rock climbing 5759 £6 George D. Revised slight slant to spine, Good in Good+ pioneer, covering the Alps, North dw. Wales and The Lake District. Abt Julius Allgau Landshaft Und Menschen Bergverlag Rudolf 1938 First Edition 143pp, inscription, text in German, VG- 10397 £4 Rother in G chipped dw. Aflalo F.G. Behind The Ranges. Parentheses Of Martin Secker 1911 First Edition 284pp, 14 illusts, original green cloth, Aflalo's wide variety of travel 10382 £8 Travel. boards are slightly soiled and marked, experiences. worn spot on spine, G+. Ahluwalia Major Higher Than Everest. Memoirs of a Vikas Publishing 1973 First Edition 188pp, Fair in Fair dw. Autobiography of one of the world's 5743 £9 H.P.S. Mountaineer House most famous mountaineers.
    [Show full text]
  • Insight September 2019
    Monthly Newsletter September 2019 September INSIDE THIS ISSUE The Art of Global Warming IFRS Survey Results 2 UPCOMING EVENTS Environment 3-4 IFRS17 Program Update Forum Technology 5 Sunsystems Q&A Webinar Millennium News 6-8 Economy 9-10 1 IFRS17 PROGRAM UPDATE SURVEY During July and August 2019, an online survey was conducted by Millennium Consulting which asked international insurance companies questions about their IFRS 17 compliance programs. Participants. Participants included Finance Directors, Chief Actuaries, IT Directors and Senior Risk Managers. Participating regions. A large response was received from insurers in the following countries: UK, Netherlands, Germany, Ireland, Switzerland, Morocco, Mexico, Hong Kong, China, Thailand, Taiwan and Australia. Significant outcomes • As expected, IFRS 17 compliance was identified as being primarily the responsibility of the Finance department although 47% of the responses suggested that it was a joint Finance, Actuarial, IT, Risk and Underwriting responsibility. • Compliance is managed centrally by almost 70% of the participants with only 28% having autonomy to implement their own local solutions. • 9% of respondents indicated that pure IFRS 17 compliance was their primary goal whilst 36% stated it was a catalyst for a broader Finance Transformation program. • 31% of the respondents reported that their IFRS 17 implementations were underway whereas 39% were still working on the detailed design. • Confidence in achieving IFRS 17 compliance within the current time scales is high with only 9% suggesting it would not be possible. • SAS was identified as the most popular technology for CSM calculation with 17% of the respondents having selected it. • The primary area of concern relates to data with 20% identifying data integration as of greatest concern.
    [Show full text]
  • Alpiniste Denis Urubko Part À La Conquête Du K2 En Solo !
    Himalaya : l’alpiniste Denis Urubko part à la conquête du K2 en solo ! Inquiétude et consternation. L’alpiniste Denis Urubko, héros du sauvetage d’Elizabeth Revol, a quitté samedi le reste de l’expédition sans prévenir, pour une attaque imminente du sommet du K2 en solitaire. Source page facebook de l’expédition Polski-Himalaizm-Zimowy-2016-2020. Après de nombreuses dissensions au sein de l’expédition polonaise partie fin décembre dans l’Himalaya avec l’intention de réaliser la première hivernale du K2, sa pièce maîtresse, Denis Urubko, a fait faux bond à ses partenaires pour atteindre le sommet en solo. C’est par un message laconique que le chef de l’expédition, Krzysztof Wielicki, a informé de la situation : « Denis Urubko a quitté la base, sans en informer la direction de l’expédition, pour tenter d’atteindre le sommet du K2 avant la fin du mois de février. L’expédition se poursuit conformément au plan prévu prévoyant la préparation d’une attaque au début du mois de mars ». L’alpiniste a quitté le camp de base du K2 samedi, sans sa radio ni sans prévenir son équipe. Il aurait été frustré par des décisions et par le rythme du reste de l’expédition, selon certains de ses membres qui ont témoigné à l’Agence France-Presse. « Il essayait de persuader l’équipe d’attaquer le sommet en février », a affirmé un porteur à l’AFP (en anglais). « Je ne pensais pas qu’il ferait ça » Krzysztof Wielicki n’a pas caché pas sa déception : « Je connais Denis depuis de nombreuses années, nous sommes amis.
    [Show full text]
  • The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
    Pakistan Everest from Rongbuk Glacier, Tibet. Rob Fairley, 1987. (Watercolour. 36cm x 55cm. Private collection.) 21 SIMONE MORO The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat The Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. Moro switched from the Messner route to the Kinshofer due to unusually risky conditions on his favoured line. (All photos courtesy of Simone Moro) t was a cold dream, one almost 30 years in the making, on an epic moun- Itain, the biggest in the world even if it isn’t the highest. In the course of those three decades I spent a whole year either under or on the slopes of Nanga Parbat before finally realising my ambition of climbing to the summit in winter, and with a unique group of people. To realise big dreams you have to accept long waits and numerous defeats; rework strategies, teams and tactics. In a nutshell, you have to be willing to be mentally very strong as well as physically. A winter expedition to an 8,000er is not the cold version of a spring or summer expedition. It’s another world, a way of doing alpinism that’s com- pletely different; one that has to be learned, understood and experienced. Cold is certainly one of the elements with which you have to cope, but there is also the constant wind, freezing and damn loud, a wind that can force 23 24 T HE A LPINE J OURN A L 2 0 1 6 T HE F IRS T W IN T ER A SCEN T O F N A N ga P A RB at 25 many technical details and protocols that must be respected when climb- ing an 8,000er in winter.
    [Show full text]
  • RAPORT Zespołu Ds. Zbadania Okoliczności I Przyczyn Wypadku
    RAPORT Zespołu ds. zbadania okoliczności i przyczyn wypadku podczas zimowej wyprawy na Broad Peak 2013 r. Autorzy Raportu: Anna Czerwińska Bogdan Jankowski Michał Kochańczyk Roman Mazik Piotr Pustelnik Kwiecień – sierpień 2013 r. 1 Spis treści 1. Wstęp 2. Podstawa formalna działania Zespołu 3. Wstępne czynności wyjaśniające 4. Dokumentacja Raportu 5. Ocena przygotowań do wyprawy 5.1. Wstęp 5.2. Dobór celu 5.3. Wyposażenie wyprawy 5.4. Dobór i przygotowanie uczestników 5.5. Podsumowanie przygotowań do wyprawy 6. Ocena przebiegu aklimatyzacji 7. Ocena akcji przygotowawczej do ataku szczytowego i rozmieszczenia obozów 8. Ocena ataku szczytowego 8.1. Ocena taktyki wejścia szczytowego 8.2. Ocena przebiegu ataku szczytowego 8.3. Ocena akcji poszukiwawczej i odwrotu z obozu czwartego 9. Ogólna ocena wyprawy 10. Bezpośrednie przyczyny śmierci uczestników wyprawy 11. Konkluzja 12. Zalecenia dla PZA i organizatorów wypraw 2 1. Wstęp Zimą 2012/2013 roku działała w Karakorum wyprawa zorganizowana przez Polski Związek Alpinizmu (PZA) w ramach programu „Polski Himalaizm Zimowy”, której celem było dokonanie pierwszego zimowego wejścia na Broad Peak (8047 m). W skład wyprawy weszli: Krzysztof Wielicki - kierownik wyprawy - Klub Wysokogórski Katowice. Nestor polskiego himalaizmu. Zdobywca Korony Himalajów. Autor trzech pierwszych zimowych wejść na ośmiotysięczniki, w tym Mount Everest. Jako pierwszy człowiek w historii zdobył ośmiotysięcznik - Broad Peak (8047 m) - w ciągu jednego dnia, w czasie 16-tu godzin. Na 3 ośmiotysięczniki wszedł samotnie, wytyczył 3 nowe drogi. Zimą 2002/03 prowadził zimową wyprawę na K2, a zimą 2006/07 zimową wyprawę na Nanga Parbat. Pochodzi z Tychów, mieszka w Dąbrowie Górniczej. Maciej Berbeka - Klub Wysokogórski Zakopane. Nestor polskiego himalaizmu.
    [Show full text]
  • Contents Volume 36, June 2017
    THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Contents Volume 36, June 2017 Ninety Years of The Himalayan Club – Celebrations and New Beginnings 4 The Himalayan Club Logo for the 90th Year Celebrations 4 An Overwhelming Annual Seminar 4 Launch of Commemorative Himalayan Journal Issue 7 Kekoo Naoroji Book Award 8 Jagdish Nanavati Award for Excellence in Mountaineering 8 Jagdish Nanavati Garud Medal 8 Annual Dinner 9 Banff Film Festival 10 Arun Samant Memorial Lecture 10 Visit to Dharamsala 10 A short Sojourn with the Himalayan Club 17 New Beginnings with the Digital Age 18 Activities of the Delhi Section 18 Climbs and Explorations 19 Tibet 19 Exploration of Southern Tibet 19 International team climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan - Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m 20 Small Australian-Chinese team explores new ground in Tibet 23 Tibet’s Jang Tsang Go climbed 27 South Face of Shisha Pangma in 13 hours 28 Sikkim and Nepal Himalaya 28 Kangchenjunga Skyline Project 28 New Catalan climbs in Nepal 29 Three new routes in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley 30 First alpine style ascent of Gimmigela East’s North Face 32 Everest - Hillary Step collapsed 33 Kumaun and Garhwal Himalaya 33 Direct route up Thalay Sagar North Face(6904m) 33 Himachal Pradesh 35 Shiv Shankar – 6050m – First ascent of the North Buttress 35 2 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Kishtwar Himalaya 37 A new Route on South face of Brammah II 37 News & Views 39 IMF News 39 Augmented Climbing Wall 40 Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey 41 Piolets d’Or Awards – 2017 41 Obituaries 42 Warwick Deacock 42 Ueli Steck 44 The man to remember 47 Erich Abram, the last Italian K2 mountaineer 48 Office bearers of the Himalayan Club for the year 2017 50 Narration for Cover Page A 90 year Journey.
    [Show full text]
  • Nanga Parbat: First Winter Ascent Pakistan, Western Himalaya at 3.17 P.M
    AAC Publications Nanga Parbat: First Winter Ascent Pakistan, Western Himalaya At 3.17 p.m. on February 26, Simone Moro (Italy), Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Pakistan), and Alex Txikon (Spain) stepped onto the summit of Nanga Parbat (8,125m) to make the long-awaited first winter ascent. Before the 2015-’16 winter season, which in the Northern Hemisphere conventionally runs from December 21 to March 20, a total of 31 expeditions had attempted Nanga Parbat in winter. Six more teams arrived for this winter season, and two of these eventually combined forces to make the successful ascent. Although more of a reconnaissance than a serious attempt (Nanga Parbat had not been climbed at that time), the first foray onto the mountain in winter conditions occurred in 1950, when a three-man team of British mountaineers established a couple of camps on the Rakhiot Face in December. When he started to suffer frostbite in the toes, Robert Marsh descended, leaving his companions William Crace and John Thornley in a tent at about 5,500m. They were never seen again. The Poles, those doyens of Himalayan winter mountaineering, started the ball rolling again in the 1988-’89 season. This and most subsequent expeditions failed to get above 7,000m. The best effort until this year came in early February 1997, when a Polish team led by the father of high-altitude winter mountaineering, Andrzej Zawada, established four camps on the standard Kinshofer Route, from the highest of which two climbers made a push for the top. Zbigniew Trzmiel reached a point only 250m below the summit before turning around.
    [Show full text]
  • Genre Bending Narrative, VALHALLA Tells the Tale of One Man’S Search for Satisfaction, Understanding, and Love in Some of the Deepest Snows on Earth
    62 Years The last time Ken Brower traveled down the Yampa River in Northwest Colorado was with his father, David Brower, in 1952. This was the year his father became the first executive director of the Sierra Club and joined the fight against a pair of proposed dams on the Green River in Northwest Colorado. The dams would have flooded the canyons of the Green and its tributary, Yampa, inundating the heart of Dinosaur National Monument. With a conservation campaign that included a book, magazine articles, a film, a traveling slideshow, grassroots organizing, river trips and lobbying, David Brower and the Sierra Club ultimately won the fight ushering in a period many consider the dawn of modern environmentalism. 62 years later, Ken revisited the Yampa & Green Rivers to reflect on his father's work, their 1952 river trip, and how we will confront the looming water crisis in the American West. 9 Minutes. Filmmaker: Logan Bockrath 2010 Brower Youth Awards Six beautiful films highlight the activism of The Earth Island Institute’s 2011 Brower Youth Award winners, today’s most visionary and strategic young environmentalists. Meet Girl Scouts Rhiannon Tomtishen and Madison Vorva, 15 and 16, who are winning their fight to green Girl Scout cookies; Victor Davila, 17, who is teaching environmental education through skateboarding; Alex Epstein and Tania Pulido, 20 and 21, who bring urban communities together through gardening; Junior Walk, 21 who is challenging the coal industry in his own community, and Kyle Thiermann, 21, whose surf videos have created millions of dollars in environmentally responsible investments.
    [Show full text]
  • Le Gel Ne Me Fermera Pas Les Yeux
    Adam Bielecki Il a été tiré de cet ouvrage 1 000 exemplaires numérotés, le tout constituant l’édition originale. TIRAGE LIMITÉ EXEMPLAIRE NUMÉROTÉ Le gel ne me fermera pas les yeux Achevé d’imprimer par Ermes Graphics à Turin (Italie) en Dépôt légal : ISBN : xxx-x-xxxxx-xxx-x DES TATRAS AU SAUVETAGE DU NANGA PARBAT Traduit du polonais par Agnieszka Warszawska Crédits photographiques : Collection Adam Bielecki sauf cahier photos p. III (hg) : Romuald Bielecki. Titre original : Spod zamarzniętych powiek © 2017 – Adam Bielecki et Dominik Szczepański Publié pour la première fois en polonais par Wydawnictwo Agora, Warszawa. © Éditions Paulsen, 2019 pour la présente édition. Collection Guérin – Chamonix – guerin.editionspaulsen.com Les éditions Paulsen sont une société du groupe Paulsen Media Adam Bielecki avec Dominik Szczepański Le gel ne me fermera pas les yeux Traduit du polonais par Agnieszka Warszawska Je dédie ce livre à mes proches. Sans votre amour rien n’aurait de sens. Dans le labyrinthe de glace. 1 DANS LE LABYRINTHE DE GLACE – Gasherbrum I, janvier 2012 Artur a fait des cauchemars toute la nuit. Des rêves de cre- vasses, de lames de glace, de séracs de plusieurs tonnes suspendus au-dessus de sa tête et de ponts de neige fragiles. Ce matin, nous avons essayé de remonter la cascade de glace qui domine notre camp de base du Gasherbrum I, un 8 000 du Karakoram dont nous tentons la première ascension hivernale. Nous sommes six : ma sœur Aga, Janusz Golab, Artur Hajzer, deux porteurs d’altitude pakistanais, Muhammad Ali et Shaheen Baig, et moi. Nous sommes partis avec des sacs légers et 200 mètres de corde, au cas où.
    [Show full text]
  • Appalachia Winter/Spring 2019: Complete Issue
    Appalachia Volume 70 Number 1 Winter/Spring 2019: Quests That Article 1 Wouldn't Let Go 2019 Appalachia Winter/Spring 2019: Complete Issue Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.dartmouth.edu/appalachia Part of the Nonfiction Commons Recommended Citation (2019) "Appalachia Winter/Spring 2019: Complete Issue," Appalachia: Vol. 70 : No. 1 , Article 1. Available at: https://digitalcommons.dartmouth.edu/appalachia/vol70/iss1/1 This Complete Issue is brought to you for free and open access by Dartmouth Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Appalachia by an authorized editor of Dartmouth Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Volume LXX No. 1, Magazine No. 247 Winter/Spring 2019 Est. 1876 America’s Longest-Running Journal of Mountaineering & Conservation Appalachia Appalachian Mountain Club Boston, Massachusetts Appalachia_WS2019_FINAL_REV.indd 1 10/26/18 10:34 AM AMC MISSION Founded in 1876, the Appalachian Committee on Appalachia Mountain Club, a nonprofit organization with more than 150,000 members, Editor-in-Chief / Chair Christine Woodside advocates, and supporters, promotes the Alpina Editor Steven Jervis protection, enjoyment, and understanding Assistant Alpina Editor Michael Levy of the mountains, forests, waters, and trails of the Appalachian region. We believe these Poetry Editor Parkman Howe resources have intrinsic worth and also Book Review Editor Steve Fagin provide recreational opportunities, spiritual News and Notes Editor Sally Manikian renewal, and ecological and economic Accidents Editor Sandy Stott health for the region. Because successful conservation depends on active engagement Photography Editor Skip Weisenburger with the outdoors, we encourage people to Contributing Editors Douglass P.
    [Show full text]
  • Pakistan 2007
    LINDSAY GRIFFIN & DICK ISHERWOOD Pakistan 2007 This summary was compiled from extensive notes collected by LG. We thank Mr Saad Tariq Siddique of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, and the climbers named below, for their assistance. he Pakistan authorities approved 83 expeditions for 2007. As in Nepal, Tpeak fees have been steeply discounted to keep the climbers coming, and a permit for K2 now costs only $6000. Peaks below 6500m have no fee at all, and (perhaps the best news of all) liaison officers are no longer required outside the Baltoro region. On K2, 29 climbers from eight expeditions reached the summit, out of 130 starters. A Russian expedition climbed the west face by a new route, much of it on the very steep central rock buttress, using plenty of aid but apparently little oxygen, and put 11 people on the summit on 21/22 August after over two months’ effort. They considered the route to be more dif- ficult than the 2004 Russian ascent of the north face of Jannu, and it is almost certainly the hardest route to date on K2. A good deal of gear was left behind. Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov from Kazakhstan attempted a new line up a shallow spur on the north face of K2 late in the season, but aban- doned their attempt low down in bad weather and traversed onto the Japa- nese route on the north ridge, reaching the summit on 2 October. This was the latest summit date ever for K2 and another impressive achievement for this pair, climbing fast and unsupported and without oxygen.
    [Show full text]
  • Poland – One of the World Leaders in the Mountaineering and Himalayan Climbing
    KNUV 2019; 3(61): 101-115 DOI: 10.34765/kn.0319.a07 Henryk Legienis Wyższa Szkoła Turystyki i Języków Obcych – Warszawa POLAND – ONE OF THE WORLD LEADERS IN THE MOUNTAINEERING AND HIMALAYAN CLIMBING Summary In the following article, the author will firstly present the definition of himalaism and the area at which it takes place. The second part of the article will take on the subject of the latest achievements of the Polish climbing groups and the individual climbers on the demanding areas of climbing, especially in the Himalayas and the adjacent territories, with the special recognition of winter himalaism. The third part, will focus on the discussion about the ways, in which our achievements can be used in the highest mountains of the world. The special focus will be put on the achievements in winter himalaism and their promotion in our country and abroad. The aim of all types of research is to know a real reality. The three most common and most useful targets are exploration, explanation of the explanation. This test is a thorough analisys of the phenomenon of so-called winter alpinism. The descriptive method was used in the paper in elementary analisys. As a research tool which can generally be any object to explain a given problem to take a specific set of thematic literature from which specific information and research data has been obtained. Key words: Himalayas, winter mountaineering, expeditions, human genome, outstanding Polish climber. JEL codes: L83 Introduction Humans are unique human beings inhabiting Earth, which is an exceptional and one of a kind planet, what can be derived from the latest scientific research.
    [Show full text]