A Masterpiece of Zentemple Architecture

Series ARCHITECTURAL TREASURES Zuiryuji viewed across the garden of white sand Photo: Courtesy of Toyama Tourism Organization A Masterpiece of Zen Temple Architecture Zuiryuji, located in Takaoka City, Toyama Prefecture, is a magnificent the right side is characteristic of Buddhist temple compound with an ambience of tranquillity created the Zen architectural style. by the neatly ordered layout of its buildings. Zuiryuji is a bodaiji (family temple), built over a period of SASAKI TAKASHI two spaces by the 18-meter-high twenty years in the mid-seven- Sanmon gate. From the Soumon teenth century by Maeda Toshit- onstructed in 1663, gate to the Sanmon gate, a kare- sune (1593–1658), third lord of Koukouzan Zuiryuji sansui (dry landscape) garden of the Kaga domain, as a memorial temple (hereafter Zui- pure white sand creates a tranquil to his elder brother Maeda Toshi- ryuji) in Takaoka City, ambience, while beyond the San- naga (1562–1614), the second lord. CToyama Prefecture is considered mon up to the Hattou, an expanse Its construction was overseen by a classic example of Zen-style of green lawn creates a solemn Yamagami Zenemon Yoshihiro, temples of the Edo period (1603– space for prayer. the clan’s head carpenter, who 1867). Three buildings in the tem- The prayer space that begins ple compound are designated as at the Sanmon is surrounded by a national treasures: the Sanmon corridor that extends for some 300 (main gate), Butsuden (Buddhist meters, connecting the gate to the hall) and Hattou (Dharma hall). Hattou in the innermost sanctum. Zuiryuji’s most distinctive Between the Hattou and the San- feature is the layout of the build- mon stands the Butsuden, which ings in the temple compound, enshrines a statue of the principal or garan. The four main build- image, Shakyamuni Buddha. The ings, the Soumon gate, the San- symmetrical arrangement of the mon gate, Butsuden and Hattou, Soudou (meditation hall) on the are laid out in a straight line, and left side (southern side) of the cor- Interior of the Hattou (Dharma hall) the arrangement is divided into ridor and the Ooguri (kitchen) on Photo: Courtesy of Zuiryuji 30 | highlighting japan was hailed as a master builder. The Butsuden, said to have been Yamagami’s major focus, houses statues of Shakyamuni Buddha, Samantabhadra and Manjushri. The Butsuden is supported at each side by two parallel 13-meter- high, 600-year-old zelkova pil- lars. This structure allows visitors to enjoy the intricate and elabo- rate roof ornamentation on the Hattou (Dharma hall) high ceiling, as well as creating a Photo: Courtesy of Toyama Tourism Organization space where the chanting of sutras and the sound of bells resonate “The cost of building Zuiryuji Takaoka. In 1609, he built a castle together. Another feature of the is said to have been so great that in the wilderness of the Sekino Butsuden is its lead roof, three it strained the finances of the Kaga plateau and named the town millimeters thick and weighing Clan. It is testament to the strong which grew up around it Takaoka. 47 tons. This is said to have been respect Toshitsune had for Toshi- Toshinaga laid the foundation conceived as a resource for mak- naga,” says Yotsuya Doukou, head for commerce and industry in ing bullets for guns should war priest of Zuiryuji. Takaoka. An example is his pro- ever break out. Toshinaga was the founder of motion of the casting industry, which led to casting becoming the local industry of Takaoka. Today, “Takaoka copperware” continues Daisadou Hattou to be known throughout Japan. Interestingly, the roof of the Hat- Shourou tou at Zuiryuji, made from hinoki cypress wood, is in fact thatched with copper. In the center is Butsuden Ooguri Soudou enshrined an enormous memorial tablet of Toshinaga. Yotsuya says, “The temple not only displays the aesthetic sense and financial power of the Kaga Tousu Sanmon Yokushitsu clan, but also expresses respect for Toshinaga and the feelings of the Maeda family.” Karesansui white sand garden The aura of solemnity created by the orderly layout of the build- Soumon ings, the simplicity and strength of the Zen architectural style, and the beauty of the details make even non-Buddhists want to qui- etly surrender themselves to the Photo: tsuyo / PIXTA temple that is Zuiryuji. FEBRUARY 2021 | 31.

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