The Costumes of Royal India

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A checklist to the exhibition at The Costume Institute, December 20, 1985, through August 31, 1986

0 Ibim»m - if-» * ' ' " - *— HE MEÌnoPÒUTAN MUSFMM OF ART '• .ARCHIVES This exhibition is made possible by The Christian Humann Foundation and Ratti S.p.A. Additional support has been received from Air India and Mr. and Mrs. Vincente Minetti.

Copyright® 1986 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Bradford D. Kelleher, Publisher John P. O'Neill, Editor in Chief Barbara Burn, Editor Michael Shroyer, Designer

Printed and bound in the United States of America Introduction The rich costume tradition of Consideration must also India has long fascinated be given to the pragmatic visitors and scholars alike. aspects of living in the Indian How can it be that a nation climate. The geography of actively contributing to and India varies remarkably from participating in the modern the lush, green, mountainous world has retained forms of regions of Kashmir to the hot, dress as ancient as its arid lands of what is now civilization? What is it in the Rajasthan, to the tropical Indian cultural heritage that jungles of the south. supports and sustains the use Temperature and humidity of traditional clothing? In fact, shift dramatically from day to there is no segment of Indian night and from region to culture that does not reflect region. The wonderful the depth and diversity of its warmth of the Kashmiri shawl heritage and the varied is as welcome against the cool traditions of its people. But in air of a desert evening as it is costume we find a unique against the chill of higher aspect of that culture, one that mountain elevations. The lives today as vitally as it did saree and the turban, on the generations ago. In ceremo­ other hand, are unshaped nies and festivals that mark lengths of fabric worn in such special events, particular a way that, while the body is attention is always paid to cos­ protected from the heat of tume, yet even the everyday direct sunlight, cooling air can dress of Indian men and be captured and circulated women is clearly based on through the folds of the styles developed many years fabric. A number of costumes earlier. in the exhibition are made of One reason for the cotton, a fiber known for its continuity of Indian costume advantages in hot weather. is certainly the importance of The sheer cotton fabric called textiles in the history of India, mull was manufactured in which has produced exquisite India during the eighteenth fabrics for both export and and nineteenth centuries and domestic purposes for can be seen in the translucent centuries. In fact, the white coats worn by princes in Handicraft and Handloom many miniature paintings of Export Company of India, a the time, as well as in Western development agency of the European fashion. Indian government, in order Social and religious life in to support and encourage India also play an important textile production of the part in the styles used for highest quality, commissioned Indian clothing, which is sarees especially for this exhi­ comfortable and easy to wear bition, a fine demonstration of compared to the restrictive, the continuing tradition of tailored clothing of the West. skilled weaving. Indian garments accommodate the bending and kneeling unique costumes could not can represent the joining of required by religious practices have been created The cos­ the rivers Jumna and Ganges, and the routines of everyday tumes in the exhibition, there­ or it may symbolize the sun life. The amount of cloth used fore, feature the.splendid and the moon. A motif for draping the body and nature and diversity of the familiar to us in the Western wrapping the head enables one royal courts of India, but they world is the paisley, which to determine the wealth and also reveal characteristics was named after a town in status of the wearer, as can shared by all Indian people—a Scotland where shawls imitat­ the style of wrapping. The love of symbolic color and ing those made in Kashmir richness of the fiber, the color ornamentation, a preference were woven commercially. and amount of decoration, and for motifs taken from nature, This motif in India can mean the intricacy of the textile and a taste for the qualities of three different things—the design also indicate the reflected light. mango, which implies abun­ wearer's social position. The Tradition is at the very dance; the almond, which Costumes of Royal India readily heart of Indian costume. Not indicates good health; and the reveals, through the sumptu­ only have styles of dress sarpech, or turban ornament ous display of silks, gold and persisted largely unchanged, worn by the ruler, to which silver threads, and jewels, the but their symbolic and belong all the good attributes extraordinary privilege spiritual functions have also of royalty. By incorporating enjoyed by the ruling families. been retained. We have the paisley motif into a As plans for the Festival sought, in the context of this costume, the maker seeks to of India, a series of exhibitions exhibition, to explore some of invest the wearer with auspi­ celebrating Indian art and these traditional relationships. cious wishes for an abundant culture held in the United For example, the first gallery life, good health, and good States during 1985, were here represents the festival of character. being formulated, and as the Divali, marking the financial The importance of nature participation of The Metropol­ New Year, which takes place in Indian life is also revealed in itan Museum of Art was being in late October or early costume design. The color of determined, the decision was November, after the monsoon the violet gallery represents made to include in the Cos­ season. During this festival, the fruit of the jamon tree, tume Institute exhibition only the women of Rajasthan wear which in turn symbolizes the costumes worn by the princely black costumes trimmed in holy scriptures of India. This families. We wished to exhibit gold, silver, and red, and they is also one of the colors of the examples of the very finest dance before the ruler, asking twilight that follows the craftsmanship to be found in him to intercede with the gods monsoon. Indian culture is the remarkable textiles and to ensure a bountiful harvest. deeply rooted in the shared embroideries for which India Colors and motifs experience of natural pheno­ had been famed for centuries. decorating Indian costumes mena; the heat of the desert The very existence of crafts­ have symbolic as well as and jungle, the monsoon, and men who wove textiles of fine decorative functions. Red, a the cycles of the sun, moon, cotton, beautiful silk, and dye obtained from madder, and planets all play a role in precious metals was depend­ penetrates fiber deeply and forming Indian attitudes ent on the wealth and patron­ thus represents the love of toward life and art. age of these families. Without Krishna and Radha, making it In this exhibition, we have the demand generated by a an appropriate color for Hindu attempted to show the context lifestyle of the greatest lux­ brides. The use of both gold of Indian court life for which ury, such skilled crafts would and silver in a piece of these costumes were made. In not have developed and these embroidery or on a costume galleries devoted to women's costumes, there is no more stronger in India. In particular, also gives the opportunity to than one man represented, the influence of British civil express our appreciation to because in the palace women uniforms can be seen in the the many individuals who lived in the zenana, or women's style of the later embroideries. made such generous loans and quarters, and the only man It is interesting to note, who gave so willingly of their allowed to enter was the ruler however, that in this instance, time and talents to this himself. In the gallery devoted as with the introduction of fourteenth exhibition con­ to men's costume, there are no so many other foreign ideas, ceived and organized by Diana women present—they would the craftsmen absorbed the Vreeland. We would like to have observed the men's essence with a traditionally express our deep gratitude to ceremonies but from behind Indian interpretation, there­ Bhawani Singh of Jaipur, pierced screens in the by creating a composite without whose spontaneous women's quarters. Only the expression. and unhesitating support this rustle of silk or the glitter of The exhibition does not exhibition would not have gold through the screens seek to represent all of India, been possible. Our thanks are would indicate their presence. or even a majority of the five due as well to the Develop­ Another aspect of Indian hundred princely states. ment Commission of Hand- costume that the exhibition Rather, it seemed important to looms of the government of seeks to demonstrate is the focus on the area of India India for its support and to the diversity of styles. Often we where the political and HHEC of India for having think of the saree as the most economic power had been administered the project so common type of Indian concentrated for hundreds of completely. There can be no clothing, but in fact styles years and where a strong adequate way to acknowledge vary considerably from region tradition of patronage existed. the enormous contribution of to region and according to the So it was in the northern Martand Singh, whose scho­ religious customs of the states that most of the larship and vision have been of people. Muslim women wear costumes for the exhibition immense value to the devel­ bifurcated garments, meaning were to be found. opment of the exhibition, and that pyjamas, or trousers, must Although the ruling our special gratitude also goes be worn or that skirts must be families resigned their to the families who provided divided, much like Western hereditary powers when India us with access to their per­ culottes. The same type of gained independence, they sonal wardrobes and store­ coat, the angarkha, is worn by continue to participate actively houses, from which many of both Muslim and Hindu men, in the political and cultural life these extraordinary costumes but the Muslims place the of India as private citizens. and objects have come. opening on the left side, the Within their families, on Hindus on the right. special occasions such as wed­ Although the majority of dings, many of the women still the costumes in the exhibition wear the costumes on display Jean L. Druesedow date from the late nineteenth here, not only because they Associate Curator in Charge and early twentieth centuries, are appropriate and tradi­ The Costume Institute there are a few examples tional, but also because they nearly a hundred years older are festive and beautiful. which provide an opportunity This booklet, prepared for us to observe the changes from label copy in the exhibi­ that took place in design and tion, is intended to serve as a ornamentation as the influ­ guide through the galleries as ence of Western Europe grew well as a permanent record It flowers and circles, striping in Entrance Stairway Yellow Gallery gold ribbon appliqué Photographs (counterclockwise from right) Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. (New Delhi) Maharaja of Nabha Woman's Costume from Sikar Woman's Costume from c. 1880 20th century Chamba Dupatta (veil) of black cotton 20th century Maharaja of Jodhpur embroidered with gold Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton c. 1880 metallic thread with red trimmed with red silk and gold paisley corner appliqués and and silver ribbon appliqué Maharaja of Alwar red trimming; matching kurti Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. c. 1880 (tunic) and choli (bodice) with (New Delhi) gold trimming and floral Maharaja of Rewa appliqués; matching lahenga Mandap (canopy) from C. 1880 (skirt) with gold ribbon Gujarat appliqué striping and border 19th century Raja of Deo and Son Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Elephants, apraras (female c. 1880 (New Delhi) celestial beings), and finials of silver; poles of silver on wood Maharaja of Baroda Child's Costume from Lent by Makwan Arts Private C. 1880 Chamba Ltd. (Gujarat) 20th century Begum of Bhopal Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton Lamps from Jaipur C. 1880 striped and appliquéd in gold 19th century and silver ribbon Silver Nawab of Bahawalpur and Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Lent by Bhawani Singh of Attendant (New Delhi) Jaipur c. 1880 Child's Costume from Woman's Costume from Young Prince from Central Chamba Chamba India 20th century 20th century c. 1880 Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton Kurta (tunic) of black cotton trimmed with metallic gold striped and trimmed in gold Maharani of Baroda and and silver ribbon appliqué and silver ribbon appliqué Ladies Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. c. 1910 (New Delhi) (New Delhi) Maharana of Ihalawar Woman's Costume from Woman's Costume from f. 1880 Chamba Chamba 20th century 19th century Maharaja of Gwalior Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton Peshwaz (coat) of black cotton f. 1880 trimmed in red silk and gold with gold, red silk, and silver ribbon appliqué ribbon appliqué and Artist unknown Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. embroidery in gold metallic Maharaja of jodhpur (New Delhi) thread Oil on canvas Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Lent by Gaj Singh of Jodhpur Woman's Costume from (New Delhi) Chamba 20th century Kurta (tunic) of black cotton with vertical pattern of cotton striped with gold Woman's Costume from Violet Gallery appliqué Kashmir (clockwise from left entering Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari Early 20th century from Yellow Gallery) of Kotah Dupatta (veil) of yellow- orange silk with silver ribbon Woman's Costume from Woman's Costume from Sikar appliqué; Dogra kurta (tunic) Chamba 20th century of yellow-orange velvet 20th century (dupatta and pyjama); Dupatta (veil), kurti (tunic), embroidered with metallic 19th century (peshwaz) choli (bodice), and lahenga silver Dupatta (veil) of pink silk (skirt) of magenta silk striped Lent by Mrs. Yasho Karan appliquéd and trimmed in gold and trimmed with gold ribbon Singh (New Delhi) ribbon; peshwaz (coat) of appliqué magenta silk satin Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Woman's Costume from embroidered with gold (New Delhi) Kashmir metallic thread; pyjama Early 20th century (trousers) of jade green and Woman's Costume from Dupatta (veil) of pink silk pink striped cotton Kotah embroidered in gold with gold Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Early 19th century (odhini, kanchli, ribbon appliqué; Dogra kurta (New Delhi) and ghagara); late 19th century (tunic) of magenta silk with (kurti) metallic gold embroidery; Woman's Costume from Odhini (shawl), kurti (tunic), pyjama (trousers) of green silk Chamba kanchli (bodice), and ghagara striped in red 20th century (dupatta and pyjama); (skirt) of yellow cotton Lent by Mrs. Yasho Karan 19th century (peshwaz) embroidered with gold ribbon Singh, New Delhi (kurta and Dupatta (veil) of yellow silk appliqué pyjama); Tikka Rani of Nabha with multicolored silks, and Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari (dupatta) gold and silver ribbon of Kotah appliqué; peshwaz (coat) of Woman's Costume from yellow silk embroidered in Tilly Kettle Kashmir silver metallic thread; pyjama British, 1735-1786 Early 20th century (trousers) of green and yellow Young Woman with Hookah Dupatta (veil) of orange striped silk Oil on canvas, 1772 chiffon with silver appliqué; Lent by the Yale Center for Lent by Hem Singh, Bangalore Dogra kurta (tunic) of orange British Art, New Haven, The (dupatta); HHEC of India Ltd., silk satin embroidered in Paul Mellon Collection New Delhi (peshwaz and silver; pyjama (trousers) of pyjama) blue silk striped with red Woman's Costume from Lent by Mrs. Yasho Karan Woman's Costume from Chamba Singh (New Delhi) Kotah 20th century (dupatta and pyjama); Early 20th century 19th century (kurta) Woman's Costume from Odhini (shawl), kurti (tunic), Dupatta (veil) of lavender silk Rampur kanchli (bodice), and ghagara with gold ribbon appliqué; Late 19th century (skirt) of orange cotton kurta (tunic) of brown silk Dupatta (veil) of gold tissue embroidered in gold ribbon with floral designs in gold embroidered and appliquéd in appliqué embroidery; pyjama (trousers) gold; matching waistcoat and Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari of yellow and red striped kurta (tunic); Farshi pyjama cotton of Kotah (very long culotte) of purple Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. and gold silk brocade banded Child's Costume from Kotah (New Delhi) in gold, orange, and green Mid-20th century Lent by Mrs. Saba Ahmed Angarkha (coat) of orange (New Delhi) Woman's Costume from Bed Swing from Gujarat Woman's Costume from Rampur 19th century Amritsar Early 20th century Wood covered in silver Early 20th century Dupatta (veil) of cream chiffon Lent by Makwan Arts Private Dupatta (veil) of magenta silk embroidered with ruby and Ltd. (Gujarat) jacquard embroidered with emerald beads in crescent- gold metallic thread and gold moon pattern, gold metallic Throne Cover ribbon appliqué border; kurta thread, gold appliqué border, 19th century (tunic) of blue silk with silver and fringe; kurta (tunic) of Gold, pink, and green silk ribbon appliqué; pyjama pale green silk embroidered to brocade (trousers) of pink silk striped match dupatta; Farshi pyjama Lent by Jam Saheb Shatru with green (very long culotte) of deep red Shalya Singhji of Jamnagar Lent by Mrs. Yasho Karan silk satin embroidered in gold Singh (New Delhi) metallic thread including a Hookah band of sun motif 19th century Child's Costume from Nabha Lent by Mrs. Hamana Silver Mid-20th century Khatoon (Pirpur) Lent by Bhawani Singh Kurta (tunic) of pink silk satin of Jaipur brocaded in white and Woman's Costume from lavender with gold embroidery Lucknow Man's Costume from Gwalior and ribbon appliqué; matching Early 20th century Early 20th century pyjama (trousers) and kantop Dupatta (veil) of grey silk Angarkha (coat) of orange and (hat) tissue woven with silver, with gold silk tissue brocaded in Lent by Begum Mehtab gold cutwork, gold appliqué, gold with embroidery in gold Zamani Ali Khan (Rampur) and gold sequins; kurta (tunic) and silver metallic thread and of grey silk with gold sequins Woman's Costume from embroidery and sequins; Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Chamba Farshi pyjama (very long (New Delhi) 20th century (dupatta and pyjama); culotte) of peach silk satin 19th century (peshwaz) with gold embroidery and Woman's Costume from Peshwaz (coat) of magenta silk sequins Jaipur satin embroidered in gold Lent by Mrs. Hamana Mid-19th century metallic thread, pearls, and Khatoon (Pirpur) Dupatta (veil) with attached emeralds; pyjama (trousers) of saree and ghagara (skirt) of beige and magenta striped silk Woman's Costume from blue tie-dyed cotton trimmed Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Rampur in gold ribbon appliqué New Delhi (dupatta and Mid-20th century Lent by Bhawani Singh pyjama); Hem Singh, Dupatta (veil) of violet silk of Jaipur Bangalore (peshwaz) chiffon with gold embroidery and border, gold fringe; kurta Woman's Costume from Woman's Costume from (tunic) of violet silk with gold Jaipur Chamba embroidery; Farshi pyjama Late 19th century (dupatta); mid- 20th century (dupatta and pyjama); (very long culotte) of red- 19th century (kanchli and ghagara) 19th century (peshwaz) violet and gold silk brocade Dupatta (veil) of gold fabric; Dupatta (veil) of bright pink with bands of green, pink, and kanchli (bodice) of rust- silk embroidered in gold; purple satin, gold embroidery colored cotton appliquéd with peshwaz (coat) of brown silk and appliqué gold metallic thread and satin jacquard embroidered Lent by Mrs. Noor Khan fringe; matching ghagara with peacock motifs in gold (New Delhi) (skirt) patterned in gold metallic thread; pyjama Lent by Bhawani Singh (trousers) of blue striped silk of Jaipur Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. (New Delhi) trimmed with gold braid Pair of Nagara (war drums) Blue Gallery woven with orange and blue from Gujarat (clockwise from left entering Lent by Bhawani Singh Mid-18th century from Violet Gallery) of Jaipur Copper Lent by Makwan Arts Private Man's Costume from Patiala Man's Costume from Jaipur Ltd. (Gujarat) 19th century Early 19th century Choga (coat) of purple velvet Angarkha (coat) of bright pink Throne Cover and Cushions appliquéd with large motifs of and gold silk brocade trimmed Early 20th century metallic gold embroidery and with gold ribbon woven with Blue-green velvet embroidered multicolored velvets purple and orange with metallic gold, pearls, and Lent by Amrinder Singh of Lent by Bhawani Singh semiprecious stones Patiala of Jaipur Lent by Jam Saheb Shatru Shalya Singhji of Jamnagar Man's Costume from Man's Costume from Benares Sanganer Late 19th century Thomas Daniel Early 19th century Choga (coat) of purple silk British, 1749-1840 Bagalbandhani (coat) of beige brocaded in gold metallic Sir Charles Warre Malet, Bart, the quilted cotton with purple, thread British Resident at the Court of green, red, and white pattern Lent by Shrimati Gouri Poona, in the year 1790, concluding in handblock print Parwati Bayi (Trivandrum) a treaty in Durbar, with Souac Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Madarow, the Peshwa or Prince of Museum (Jodhpur) Man's Costume from Jaipur the Mahratta Empire Late 19th century Man's Costume from Jaipur Oil on canvas Choga (coat) of magenta, Early 19th century Lent by Colonel Sir Edward purple, and gold silk brocade Choga (coat) of green cotton Malet, Bart. O.B.E. with woven borders and printed and quilted paisley motifs Lent by Bhawani Singh Man's Costume from Kotah Lent by Bhawani Singh of Jaipur Mid-19th century of Jaipur Atumsukh (robe) of red silk Man's Costume from Kotah satin brocaded in gold Man's Costume from Benares Mid-19th century Lent by Shri C. Bharany Late 19th century Atumsukh (robe) of red silk (New Delhi) Choga (coat) of purple silk satin brocaded with gold brocaded in gold metallic Lent by Shri C. Bharany Man's Costume from Jaipur thread and magenta silk (New Delhi) Late 19th century Lent by Shrimati Gouri Atumsukh (robe) of yellow Parwati Bayi (Trivandrum) Man's Costume from Jaipur silk satin brocaded with red Late 19th century and green Tilly Kettle Atumsukh (coat) of red and Lent by Bhawani Singh British, 1735-1786 metallic gold silk brocade of Jaipur Shuja-ud-Daula of Oudh Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Oil on canvas, c. 1772 (New Delhi) Man's Costume from Jaipur Lent by the Yale Center for Late 19th century British Art, New Haven, The Child's Costume from Jaipur Bagalbandhani (coat) of green Paul Mellon Collection Mid-19th century silk satin brocaded with red Angarkha (coat) of red and and gold Man's Costume from Jaipur gold silk brocade trimmed Lent by Shri C. Bharany Early 19th century with gold ribbon woven in (New Delhi) Angarkhi (coat) of deep-pink orange and purple and gold silk brocade woven in Lent by Bhawani Singh vertical zigzag pattern, of Jaipur Man's Costume from Jaipur Man's Costume from Punjab semiprecious stones in floral Early 19th century or Afghanistan pattern Angarkha (coat) of dark pink, 19th century Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. green, and gold silk brocade Chogha (robe) of multicolored (New Delhi) woven in stripes and trimmed silk and metallic gold brocade with gold braid woven with on bright blue satin ground Man's Costume from orange and purple Lent by TRH Prince and Hyderabad Lent by Bhawani Singh Princess Michael of Greece Early 20th century of Jaipur Chaubaghla (coat) of gold fabric embroidered with gold Janet Hawkins metallic thread; pyjama Portrait of Maharaja Duleep Singh Red Gallery (trousers) of magenta and gold of Elveden, after Winterhalter (clockwise from left entering silk brocade Oil on canvas from Blue Gallery) Lent by Begum Naheed Lent by Oscar de la Renta Fazaluddin Khan (Hyderabad) Man's Costume from Jaipur Child's Costume from Child's Costume from Mid-19th century Hyderabad Chamba Angarkhi (coat) of quilted Early 20th century 20th century green silk satin brocaded with Peshwaz (coat) of silver fabric Choga (coat) of deep-red orange, blue, and white, embroidered in gold metallic velvet embroidered with gold trimmed with gold ribbon thread and beetle-back metallic thread, pearls, and woven with orange and purple Lent by Sahibzadi Moinissa semiprecious stones in floral Lent by Bhawani Singh Begum (Hyderabad) pattern of Jaipur Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Child's Costume from Man's Costume from Jaipur (New Delhi) Rampur Mid-19th century Early 20th century Angarkha (coat) of ivory silk Man's Costume from Jaipur Kurta (tunic) of pale pink and brocaded with gold, green, and Early 19th century gold silk brocade embroidered coral; pyjama (trousers) of Kaba (coat) of dark-blue silk with gold metallic thread, seed pink and gold striped brocade brocaded in silver and gold pearls, and colored metallic Lent by Bhawani Singh with fur collar, trimmed with thread; pyjama (trousers) of of Jaipur gold ribbon woven with green silk satin embroidered in orange and purple Man's Costume from Jaipur gold Lent by Bhawani Singh Mid-19th century Lent by Begum Mehtab of Jaipur Angarkhi (coat) of red silk Zaman Ali Khan (Rampur) satin brocaded with yellow Man's Costume from Jaipur and green and trimmed with Cradle from Jodhpur Early 19th century gold ribbon woven with blue 19th century Angarkhi (coat) of metallic and orange; pyjama (trousers) Wood covered with mirrors; gold silk brocaded with silver, of yellow silk brocaded in silver and gold brocade red, and green silver, red, and green bolsters Lent by Bhawani Singh Lent by Bhawani Singh Lent by Mehrengarh Fort of Jaipur of Jaipur Museum (Jodhpur) Carpet from Surat Chair Child's Costume from 19th century 19th century Chamba Cotton with metallic gold Silver repoussé on carved 20th century embroidery wood; upholstered seat and Choga (coat) of deep-red Lent by Jam Saheb Shatru back velvet embroidered with gold Shalya Singhji of Jamnagar 10 Lent by Nesle Inc. metallic thread, pearls, and Man's Costume from Jaipur trimmed with gold and silver Man's Costume from Gwalior Mid- 19th century metallic thread embroidery Early 20th century Angharkhi (coat) of quilted and sequins; sadri (vest) of Anga (coat) of white silk violet silk brocaded in silver, pink and silver silk tissue brocaded in gold, embroidered gold, and red, trimmed with trimmed with silver metallic with gold and silver metallic gold ribbon woven with braid thread and sequins; sadri orange and purple floral Lent by Shri Madhav Rao (vest) of white and silver silk pattern Scindia of Gwalior brocade trimmed with silver Lent by Bhawani Singh metallic braid and silver of Jaipur Man's Costume from Gwalior paillettes Late 19th century (dupatta); early Lent by Shri Madhav Rao Man's Costume from Jaipur 20th century (anga and sadri) Scindia of Gwalior Early 19th century Dupatta (veil) of yellow- Angarkhi (coat) of black, red, orange and gold striped silk Woman's Costume from and gold silk brocade trimmed tissue; anga (coat) of orange Bharatpur with gold braid woven with and gold silk jacquard trimmed Early 20th century orange and purple with gold metallic thread and Odhini (shawl), choli (bodice), Lent by Bhawani Singh silver and gold sequins; sadri and ghagara (skirt) of red and of Jaipur (vest) of peach and gold floral gold silk brocade with animal silk jacquard trimmed with motifs and gold, green, and Man's Costume from Jaipur gold metallic braid and sequins red border Early 19th century Lent by Shri Madhav Rao Lent by Tikka Rani of Nabha Kaba (coat) of purple silk Scindia of Gwalior brocaded with silver, red, and Woman's Costume from gold with fur collar, trimmed Zari Patta (belt) from Gwalior Jaipur with gold ribbon woven with Early 20th century Early 20th century orange and purple Gold silk tissue Ghagara (skirt) of yellow silk Lent by Bhawani Singh Lent by Shri Madhav Rao satin embroidered with gold of Jaipur Scindia of Gwalior and silver metallic thread and gold sequins Man's Costume from Gwalior Man's Costume from Gwalior Lent by Bhawani Singh Early 20th century Early 20th century of Jaipur Dupatta (veil) of pale peach Dupatta (veil) of light blue- cotton with metallic gold green cotton and silk Palki (carriage) from Jaipur brocade border; anga (coat) of crossbarred with gold and 19th century offwhite silk tissue striped in silver with gold brocade Wood covered in silver and silver and gold and trimmed border; anga (coat) of gold silk gold; red velvet cushions and with gold and silver metallic tissue brocaded in silver, gold, bolster, gold fringe embroidery, with bright pink and multicolored silks in leaf Lent by Bhawani Singh borders; sadri (vest) of gold motif, and trimmed with gold of Jaipur and white silk brocade and silver metallic embroidery trimmed in gold metallic braid and sequins; sadri (vest) of Woman's Costume from with magenta and gold striped gold, cream, and blue silk Jaipur border brocade trimmed with gold Early 20th century Lent by Shri Madhav Rao braid Ghagara (skirt) of pale pink Scindia of Gwalior Lent by Shri Madhav Rao silk satin embroidered with Scindia of Gwalior gold and multicolored metallic Man's Costume from Gwalior thread and sequins Early 20th century Lent by Bhawani Singh Dupatta (veil) of pink cotton of Jaipur with silk metallic gold border; anga (coat) of pink silk 11 Woman's Costume from Woman's Costume from Elephant Howdah from Jaipur Jaipur Kotah 19th century Early 20th century Early 20th century Wood covered in silver and Ghagara (skirt) of blue silk Dupatta (veil) of red silk gold; red velvet upholstery satin embroidered with gold embroidered with gold ribbon embroidered in sun and lion and multicolored metallic appliqué and multicolored motifs of metallic gold thread and sequins, border silks; kurti (tunic), kanchli Lent by Bhawani Singh design of birds, fish, and (bodice), and ghagara (skirt) of of Jaipur peacocks blue-green silk embroidered in Lent by Bhawani Singh star pattern of gold ribbon Elephant Trappings from of Jaipur appliqué Jamnagar Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari Early 20th century Woman's Costume from of Kotah Gold cotton with floral Jaipur embroidery and multicolored Early 20th century Woman's Costume from tassels Ghagara (skirt) of pale blue- Kotah Lent by Jam Saheb Shatru green silk satin embroidered Early 20th century Shalya Singhji of Jamnagar with gold and multicolored Odhini (shawl) of red metallic thread and sequins georgette embroidered and Lent by Bhawani Singh bordered in gold ribbon of Jaipur appliqué; ghagara (skirt) of red silk satin embroidered with Coral Gallery Woman's Costume from gold ribbon appliqué and (clockwise from left entering Jaipur multicolored silk thread from Red Gallery) Early 20th century Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari Ghagara (skirt) of yellow silk of Kotah satin embroidered with gold Elephant Howdah and silver metallic thread and Woman's Costume from 19th century sequins Chamba Wood covered with silver; Lent by Bhawani Singh First half 20th century yellow-orange satin of Jaipur Dupatta (veil) of green silk upholstery, yellow and red with gold ribbon appliqué; satin flounce, gold and silver Woman's Costume from kurta (tunic) of magenta silk brocade bolsters Jaipur with gold ribbon appliqué, Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Early 20th century gold embroidery and sequins; Museum (Jodhpur) Ghagara (skirt) of pink silk pyjama (trousers) of purple satin embroidered with gold and yellow striped silk Representative Shoes of India and silver metallic thread and Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Lent by Bata Shoe Museum sequins (New Delhi) (Toronto), Begum Mehtab Lent by Bhawani Singh Zamani Ali Khan (Rampur), of Jaipur Elephant Trappings from Bhawani Singh of Jaipur, and Jaipur Shri Madhav Rao Scindia Child's Costume from Nabha 19th century (Gwalior) Mid-20th century Silver and silver gilt with lion Kantop (hat), kurta (tunic), sculptures and plaques Francesco Renaldi and pyjama (trousers) of representing Lord Ganesha, British, 1755-1799 emerald-green silk damask Krishna and Radha, Lord Indian Girl with Hookah with gold metallic thread Rama, the sun, the moon, a Oil on canvas, 1789 embroidery and ribbon peacock, and the goddess Lent by the Yale Center for appliqué Laxmi British Art, New Haven, The Lent by Begum Mehtab Lent by Bhawani Singh Paul Mellon Collection 12 Zamani Ali Khan (Rampur) of Jaipur Woman's Wedding Costume (trousers) of pale blue silk Woman's Costume from from Rampur satin embroidered and Jaipur Early 20th century trimmed in gold metallic 18th century Dupatta (veil) and kurti (tunic) thread and sequins Ghagara (skirt) of gold of bronze and gold silk tissue Lent by Shrimati Brijraj Singh metallic fabric embroidered embroidered in gold metallic of Kotah with silver paillettes and thread, banded by gold beetle-back embroidery and silver and gold Woman's Costume from Lent by Bhawani Singh metallic fringe; Farshi pyjama Kotah of Jaipur (very long culotte) of light- Early 20th century green and gold cotton brocade Odhini (shawl) of pink and Elephant Howdah banded in red, yellow, green, gold silk tissue with gold 19th century and purple heavily embroidery and sequins; Wood covered with silver; red embroidered in floral and fish- kanchli (underbodice) of velvet cushions, yellow and scale designs in gold metallic orange silk and gold metallic red flounce thread brocade with multicolored silk Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Lent by Begum Mehtab and metallic gold embroidery Museum (Jodhpur) Zamani Ali Khan (Rampur) and sequins; matching kurti (tunic) and ghagara (skirt) Robert Home Henry Jamyn Brooks Lent by Shrimati Shriv British, 1752-1834 British, b. c. 1865 Kumari of Kotah King Chazi-ud-din Haidar of Oudh The Last Ceremony, Lord Roberts at Oil on canvas, c. 1820 Osborne Woman's Costume from Lent by Jean-Pierre Marque, Oil on canvas, c. 1901 Kotah London Lent anonymously Early 20th century Odhini (shawl), kurti (tunic), Elephant Howdah from Woman's Costume from kanchli (bodice), and ghagara Gujarat Lucknow (skirt) of gold silk tissue 19th century Late 19th century embroidered with gold Wood covered in silver; red, Dupatta (veil) and kurta metallic thread and red silk gold, and silver brocade (tunic) of pale-pink and gold Lent by Shrimati Shriv cushions tissue with gold cutwork, gold Kumari of Kotah Lent by Makwan Arts Private appliqué, and gold and silver Ltd. (Gujarat) fringe; Farshi pyjama (very Man's Costume from Benares long culotte) of pink and gold 19th century Woman's Costume from flowered silk brocade with Achkan (coat) of metallic and Hyderabad wide lower band of green satin yellow fabric embroidered 20th century embroidered with gold and with beetle-back and gold Khada dupatta (veil) and choli silver metallic thread metallic thread (bodice) of pink and gold silk Lent by Mrs. Hamana Lent by Shrimati Gouri tissue embroidered with gold Kahtoon (Pirpur) Parwati Bayi (Trivandrum) sequins and trimmed with sequined gold braid Suite of Furniture Dupatta (veil) from Jaipur Lent by Mrs. Zainab Khan 19th century Late 19th century (Hyderabad) Settee and two chairs of silver Deep rust-red cotton woven repoussé on carved wood; with diagonal gold stripes and upholstered seat and back appliquéd with gold paisleys, Lent by Nesle Inc. gold sequins, and fringe Lent by Bhawani Singh Child's Costume from Kotah of Jaipur Mid-20th century Achkan (coat) and pyjama 13 Woman's Costume from Lent by Tikka Rani of Nabha Representative Turbans from Hyderabad (odhini and kurta); HHEC of Rajasthan 20th century India Ltd., New Delhi (pyjama) 20th century Khada dupatta (veil) of red Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. and gold silk tissue bordered Woman's Costume from (New Delhi) with appliqué of gold metallic Nabha thread embroidery; kurti Mid-20th century Philip de Laszlo (Philip (tunic) and choli (bodice) of Odhini (shawl), kurta (tunic), Alexius de Laszlo de Lombos) red cotton net embroidered and pyjama (trousers) of British, 1869-1937 with silver metallic thread and cream silk satin jacquard with Study for a Portrait of the Maharaja trimmed with gold and silver gold ribbon appliqué of Jaipur metallic thread embroidery; Lent by Tikka Rani of Nabha Oil on canvas, 1935 pyjama (trousers) of gold silk Lent anonymously brocade Woman's Costume from Delhi Lent by Mrs. Haidar Hussain Early 20th century Elephant Howdah from Jaipur (Bombay) Dupatta (veil) and matching 19th century kurta (tunic) of red and gold Wood covered in silver and Woman's Costume from silk tissue with gold and silver silver gilt, upholstery of red Chamba mango-shaped appliqués and satin, cushions of gold and 20th century border of purple, red, green, silver brocade Peshwaz (coat) of green silk and yellow triangles Lent by Bhawani Singh embroidered and trimmed in embroidered in gold and silver of Jaipur gold ribbon appliqué with gold ribbon appliqué; Brijendra Singh of Chamba shaluka (jacket) of blue silk (dupatta); HHEC of India Ltd., brocade; Farshi pyjama (very New Delhi (peshwaz) long culotte) of yellow silk satin with purple border with Orange Gallery Woman's Costume from gold ribbon appliqué (clockwise from left entering Hyderabad Lent by Mrs. Saba Ahmed from Coral Gallery) Late 19th century (New Delhi) Khada dupatta (veil), kurti (tunic), and choli (bodice) of Child's Costume from Saree from Chanderi yellow silk crossbarred in Lucknow 1985 silver and trimmed in gold Mid-20th century Black cotton and silk with embroidery and appliqué; Gharara (ankle-length culotte) metallic gold pyjama (trousers) of of blue satin with gold Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. turquoise-blue cotton and silk embroidery and sequins, and (New Delhi) brocade pink and yellow appliqué in Lent by Sahibzadi Moinissa geometric pattern Saree from Benares Begum (Hyderabad) Lent by Begum Shenshah 7985 Husain (Lorepur) Rose silk tissue and metallic Woman's Costume from gold Nabha Lady's Dumbbells Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Mid-20ih century (odhini and 19th century (New Delhi) kurta); 20th century (pyjama) Wood painted and inlaid with Odhini (shawl) of yellow- ivory Saree from Benares green cotton brocade with Lent by Mehrengarh Fort 1985 gold appliqués; kurta (tunic) of Museum (Jodhpur) Silk tissue of rust silk warp green silk with gold and silver and metallic gold weft appliqués; pyjama (trousers) of Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. brown and green striped (New Delhi) 14 cotton Frank Owen Salisbury Saree from Benares Saree from Kanjipuram British, 1874-1962 7985 7985 The Sen Sisters White cotton and silk brocaded Dark red silk and metallic gold Oil on canvas with metallic gold Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Gift of the artist, 1954 Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. (New Delhi) (New Delhi) Saree from Baroda Early 20th century Saree from Benares Rtarli mtton with multirnlorpn LtlClV. IS. V. V^l I V_ri 1 VV 1 11 1 111 LI 1 l IV-VylUl ^\A 7985 brocade and metallic gold Multicolored silk brocade and Pink Gallery Lent by Ranjit Singh Gaekwad metallic gold (center platform, then , (Baroda) Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. clockwise around platform and (New Delhi) rest of room) Saree from Dholpur woven in Benares Deanshker Early 20th century The Rajmaia of Jaipur, Ayesha Man's Costume from Jaipur Green silk striped and Oil on canvas, 1949 Mid-20th century brocaded in metallic gold Lent by Gayatri Devi of Jaipur Jama (coat) of white cotton Lent by Srimati Vasundhara Lent by Bhawani Singh Raje (Dholpur) Saree from Kanjipuram of Jaipur 7985 Saree from Kanjipuram Bright turquoise blue Patka (sash) from Paithan 7985 brocaded with gold 18th century Deep red silk crossbarred in Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Green silk with red and gold gold with yellow silk borders (New Delhi) stripes and wide tapestry- Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. woven border (New Delhi) Saree from Benares Lent by Bhawani Singh 7985 of Jaipur Saree from Dholpur woven in Rust-colored silk striped in Benares patterned gold brocade Dupatta (veil) from Benares Early 20th century Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Mid-19th century Orange silk multicolored (New Delhi) Black and gold silk brocade brocade and metallic gold with red and gold border Lent by Srimati Vasundhara Saree from Kanjipuram Lent by Bhawani Singh Raje (Dholpur) 7985 of Jaipur Bright green silk with metallic Saree from Baroda gold Throne Cover and Cushions Early 20th century Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. from Jodhpur Deep-pink silk crossbarred in (New Delhi) Early 20th century gold with multicolored Gold, pink, and green silk brocade Saree from Kanjipuram brocade Lent by Ranjit Singh Gaekwad 7985 Lent by Mr. Sunder Singh (Baroda) Black silk crossbarred in gold (Jodhpur) Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Saree from Benares (New Delhi) Chandelier 7985 English, 19th century Cream-colored silk brocaded Philip de Laszlo (Philip Ruby and white crystal, ruby in multicolored silks and Alexius de Laszlo de Lombos) crystal trim, etched-glass metallic gold British, 1869-1937 hurricane shades, sixteen Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Maharani of Cooch Behar lights (New Delhi) Oil on canvas, 1925 Lent by Nesle Inc. Lent anonymously 15 Carpet Weights from Jodhpur Man's Costume from Gwalior Man's Costume from Kotah 19th century Early 20th century Early 20th century Ivory carved in lotus-bud Angarkha (coat) of white Chapkan (coat) of white shape and painted cotton with white embroidery cotton embroidered in white Lent by Mehrengarh Fort and cutwork Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari Museum (Jodhpur) Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. of Kotah (New Delhi) Man's Costume from Gujarat Shawl from Kashmir Early 19th century Shawl from Kashmir Mid-19th century Jama (coat) of offwhite cotton Early 19th century White wool with multicolored embroidered in red silk Indigo-blue wool woven with mango-shaped motifs woven Lent by Mehrengarh Fort border of multicolored floral in border Museum (Jodhpur) motifs Lent by Bhawani Singh Lent by Bhawani Singh of Jaipur Bernard Boutet de Monvel of Jaipur French, 1884-1949 Man's Costume from Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar of George Willison Lucknow Indore British, 1741-1797 19th century Oil on canvas, 1934 Muhammad Ali Khan, Nawab of Chapkan (coat) of white Lent anonymously Arkot, with Attendant cotton woven with diagonal Oil on canvas, c. 1795 floral stripe Man's Costume from Lent by Inchcape PLC, London Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Sanganer (New Delhi) Early 18th century Man's Costume from Kotah Bagalbandhani (coat) of peach Mid-20th century Shawl from Kashmir cotton with green and white Angarkha (coat) of white Early 19th century pattern in handblock print cotton Pale coral wool woven with Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Lent by Shrimati Shiv Kumari multicolored floral pattern Museum (Jodhpur) of Kotah Lent by Bhawani Singh of Jaipur Man's Costume from Shawl from Kashmir Sanganer Early 19th century Man's Costume from Rampur Early 19th century Red wool woven with pattern Early 20th century Jama (coat) of beige cotton of multicolored floral motifs Angarkha (coat) of white with purple, red, and metallic Lent by Bhawani Singh cotton muslin woven white on gold pattern in handblock of Jaipur white in striped floral and vine print patterns and embroidered Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Patka (sash) from Paithan with silver metallic thread; Museum (Jodhpur) 18th century opening on left side indicates Red and gold silk brocade with Muslim wearer, opening on Man's Costume from wide tapestry-woven border right side Hindu Sanganer Lent by Bhawani Singh Lent by Begum Mehtab Late 18th century of Jaipur Zamani Ali Khan (Rampur) Angarkha (coat) of offwhite cotton with purple, green, red, Man's Costume from Jaipur Shawl from Kashmir and metallic gold pattern in Late 19th century Early 19th century handblock print; quilted Jama (coat) of white cotton Orange wool woven with Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Lent by Bhawani Singh multicolored floral pattern Museum (Jodhpur) of Jaipur Lent by Bhawani Singh of Jaipur

16 Man's Costume from Powder Horn Lucknow Vitrine Indian, Mughal period, 18th 19th century (left to right, top to bottom) century Chapkan (coat) of white Nephrite striped cotton woven with Bequest of George C. Stone, dagger motif Shield 1935 Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Indian, Mughal period, 18th 36.25.2416 (New Delhi) century Watered steel, gold, and Matchlock Hunting Gun Shawl from Kashmir turquoise Indian, Mughal period, 18th Mid-19th century Bequest of George C. Stone, century White wool with floral pattern 1935 Steel, painted wood, and gold; in red and green 36.25.597 with squared barrel, stock Lent by Bhawani Singh painted with animals of Jaipur Blunderbuss Bequest of George C. Stone, Indian (Seringapatam), dated 1935 Man's Costume from Kashmir 1793/4 36.25.2153 Late 19th century Made for Tipu Sultan of Sherwani (coat) of red, white, Mysore. Shield and pink diagonally striped Steel, gold, and wood Indian (Rajasthan), 19th century wool with woven grape-and- Bequest of George C. Stone, Hide covered with lacquer; vine and floral patterns 1935 silver bosses Lent by Safdar Ali Khan 36.25.2227 Bequest of George C. Stone, (Patna) 1935 Ceremonial Lance 36.25.592 Man's Costume from Kashmir Northern Indian, Mughal period, Late 19th century 18th century Sabre with Scabbard Achkan (coat) of cream wool Bone carved and dyed, with Indian (Jaipur?), Mughal period, with paisley pattern woven in steel rest and tip dated 1819 black, red, and green Bequest of George C. Stone, Steel, silver, and enamel Lent by Safdar Ali Khan 1935 presented in 1819 by Sir (Patna) 36.145.2070 Warren Hastings to one of his officers Man's Costume from Kashmir Crutch Dagger Bequest of George C. Stone, Late 19th century Indian, 19th century 1935 Choga (coat) of wool in Dagger blade hidden in shaft 36.25.1302 multicolored stripes with Nephrite, silver, and jewels woven paisley and floral Bequest of George C. Stone, Powder Horn patterns 1935 Indian, Mughal period, 17th to Lent by Safdar Ali Khan 36.25.1001 18th century (Patna) Ivory, carved with animals Dagger with Scabbard Bequest of George C. Stone, Hilt and blade (?) Indian, Mughal 1935 period, 18th century (blade dated 36.25.2424 1703) Scabbard Ottoman, 19th century Powder Horn Steel, nephrite, rubies, and Indian, Mughal period, 17th to gold 18th century Gift of Giulia P. Morosini, in Ivory, carved with animals memory of her father, Bequest of George C. Stone, Giovanni P. Morosini, 1923 1935 23.232.3 36.25.2423 17 Dagger with Scabbard Dagger Blade inscribed in Urdu Indian, Mughal period, 18th Indian, Mughal period, 18th Gift of Giulia P. Morosini, in century century memory of her father, Steel, rock crystal, gold, Steel, gold, rubies, emeralds, Giovanni P. Morosini, 1923 rubies, diamonds, emeralds, and rock crystal 23.232.7 and silk Bequest of George C. Stone, Bequest of George C. Stone, 1935 Dagger with Scabbard 1935 36.25.655 Hilt Indian, Mughal period, 19th 36.25.69 century Sabre with Scabbard Blade Persian dated 1732 Dagger with Scabbard Indian, Mughal period, early 18th Scabbard Ottoman 19th century Indian, Mughal period, 18th century Steel, nephrite, agate, gold, century Steel, silver, enamel, and emeralds, diamonds, and Steel, nephrite, gold, rubies, velvet rubies silver, and leather Bequest of George C. Stone, Bequest of George C. Stone, Bequest of George C. Stone, 1935 1935 1935 36.25.1623 36.25.994 36.25.1086 Gold Service Dagger with Scabbard Hilt and blade (?) Indian, Mughal Dagger with Scabbard 19th century period, 18th century (blade dated Hilt and scabbard Indian, 19th Round platter, serving bowls, 1703) century and decanter in 24-karat gold Blade Indian dated 1739? Lent by Harry Winston, Inc. Scabbard Ottoman 19th century Dagger: nephrite with pierced Steel, nephrite, rubies, and blade and scales of shagreen Comb gold Scabbard: nephrite, rubies, 19th century Gift of Giulia P. Morosini, in emeralds, diamonds, gold, and Gold, jade, diamonds, rubies, memory of her father, Giovanni P. Morosini, 1923 copper and emeralds Gift of Giulia P. Morosini, in Lent anonymously 23.232.6 memory of her father, Bowl Giovanni P. Morosini, 1923 Dagger Hilt 19th century 23.232.8 Indian, Mughal period, mid-17th Rock crystal, diamonds, century rubies, sapphires, and gold Dagger Nephrite Lent anonymously Indian, Mughal period, 18th Rogers Fund, 1915 century 15.150.1 Oval Box Nephrite with pierced blade of 19th century steel damascened with gold Dagger Rock crystal, rubies, emeralds, Bequest of George C. Stone, Indian, Mughal period, late 17th to sapphires, and gold 1935 early 18th century Lent anonymously 36.25.993 Steel and nephrite Bequest of George Coe Cup and Cover Dagger Graves, 1930 19th century Indian, Mughal period, 18th 30.120.162 Rock crystal with rubies, century emeralds, and gold Nephrite with pierced blade of Dagger Lent anonymously steel damascened with gold Hilt and blade Indian, Mughal Bequest of George C. Stone, period, late 17th to 18th century Bowl 1935 Scabbard Ottoman, 19th century 19th century 36.25.993 Steel, nephrite, gold, emerald, Rock crystal, rubies, sapphires, rubies, and diamonds, emeralds, and gold 18 diamonds Lent anonymously Octagonal Box and Plate Cup and Cover Choker Necklace 19th century 19th century 19th century Rock crystal, sapphires, rubies, Rock crystal with rubies, Diamonds, enamel, pearls, and and gold emeralds, and gold emerald drops Lent anonymously Lent anonymously Lent anonymously

Bowl Archer's Ring Sarpech (turban ornament) 19th century 19th century and Two Bracelets Rock crystal, rubies, emeralds, Rubies, gold and enamel 19th century sapphires, and gold Lent anonymously Rubies, diamonds, and enamel Lent anonymously Lent anonymously Choker Necklace Bowl 19th century Bracelet 19th century Diamonds, enamel, and gold 19th century Rock crystal, rubies, Lent anonymously Gold, enamel, diamonds, and diamonds, emeralds, and gold pearls Chain and Pendant Lent anonymously Lent by Mme Pierre 19th century Schlumberger Gold, diamonds, and enamel Rectangular Box Lent anonymously 19th century Bracelets Rock crystal, gold, pearls, and 19th century Hand-held Ornament rubies Gold, rubies, and emeralds 19th century Lent anonymously Lent by Harry Winston, Inc. Carved emeralds, enamel, and gold Bowl Lent anonymously Bangle Bracelets 19th century 19th century Rock crystal, rubies, sapphires, Necklace Diamond and blue enamel diamonds, and gold 19th century Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Lent anonymously Diamonds with emerald drop, enameled back Court Necklace Octagonal Box Lent by Harry Winston, Inc. Late 19th century 19th century Rubies and diamonds Rock crystal, rubies, Sarpech (turban ornament) Lent by Harry Winston, Inc. diamonds, emeralds, and gold 19th century Lent anonymously Emeralds, diamonds, enamel, Pair of Bangle Bracelets and gold 19th century Incense Bottle Lent anonymously Gold with diamonds 19th century Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Jade with enamel, gold, Mango-shaped Toy emeralds, diamonds, and 19th century Bracelets rubies Gold, emeralds, and rubies 19th century Lent anonymously Lent anonymously Emerald with animal heads in gold with rubies, and enamel Oval Box Pair of Earrings Lent by Harry Winston, Inc. 79//¡ century 19th century Rock crystal, rubies, and gold Diamonds, pearls, and enamel Chain and Pendant Lent anonymously Lent anonymously 19th century Rubies, enamel, and gold Oval Box Pendant Lent anonymously 19th century 19th century Rock crystal, gold, and rubies Emeralds, pearls, and gold Lent anonymously Lent anonymously 19 Hand-held Ornament Shield (Delhi) Pair of Miniature Sandals 19th century Indian, Mughal period, 19th century? Diamonds, gold, and pearls 19th century Gold, silver, and green glass Lent anonymously Pierced steel damascened with (placed as an offering on a gold temple altar) Necklace Gift of William B. Osgood Lent by Bata Shoe Museum 19th century Field, 1902 (Toronto) Gold with cabochon rubies 02.5.4 Lent by TRH Prince and Pair of Statuettes from Jaipur Princess Michael of Greece Pair of Sandals from 19th century Hyderabad Silver and silver gilt Ring 19th century? Lent by Bhawani Singh of 19th century Silver Jaipur Gold and diamonds Lent by Bata Shoe Museum Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. (Toronto) Pair of Arm Bracelets 19th century Bracelet Necklace and Earrings Gold with diamonds 19th century 19th century Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Gold with diamonds and Rubies, diamonds, and pearls pearls Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Pair of Sandals Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. 19th century? Pair of Bracelets Ivory Necklace 19th century 19th century Lent by Bata Shoe Museum Gold with diamonds Emerald beads and briolette (Toronto) diamonds with emerald drop Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Lent by Harry Winston, Inc. Mirror Pair of Child's Sandals 19th century Pair of Foot Bracelets 19th century? Jade with gold, diamonds, 19th century Silver emeralds, and rubies Gold with rubies, emeralds, Lent by Bata Shoe Museum Lent anonymously and diamonds (Toronto) Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Set of Buttons Pair of Child's Sandals from 19th century Hand and Finger Jewelry Uttar Pradesh Agate, gold, and diamonds 19th century 19th century? Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Enamel, diamonds, and gold Silver Lent by Mme Pierre Lent by Bata Shoe Museum Schlumberger (Toronto)

Pair of Sandals Earrings Green Gallery 78^ century? 19th century (left side of ramp entering Wood covered with silver Pearls, emeralds, diamonds, from Orange Gallery) Lent by Bata Shoe Museum and gold (Toronto) Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Ghagara (skirt) from Kutch Mid-19th century Dhokas (symbols of Pendant Earrings Yellow silk satin with elephant monarchy) from Gujarat 19th century and horse motifs embroidered 19th century Pearls, diamonds, emeralds, in chain stitch and a floral Fish, lion, and elephant of and rubies border silver and silver gilt Lent by Fred Leighton, Ltd. Lent by Smt. Harshad Kumari Lent by Makwan Arts Private (New Delhi) 20 Ltd. (Gujarat) Dupatta (veil) from Jamnagar Woman's Costume from Woman's Costume from Early 20th century Jaipur Jaipur Red chiffon with tie-dyed Mid- 19th century Mid-19th century pattern in yellow, green, and Dupatta (veil) of yellow cotton Dupatta (veil) and ghagara white with gold ribbon with silver appliqué; ghagara (skirt) of rust and offwhite tie- appliqué (skirt) of rust and yellow tie- dyed cotton with gold ribbon Lent by Smt. Harshad Kumari dyed cotton with silver appliqué (New Delhi) appliqué Lent by Bhawani Singh Lent by Bhawani Singh of Jaipur Ghagara (skirt) from Chamba of Jaipur 19th century Woman's Costume from Red cotton printed in gold, Man's Costume from Rampur Jaipur silver, and black Mid-20th century Mid-19th century Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Jama (robe) of gold and orange Dupatta (veil) and ghagara (New Delhi) silk tissue with gold (skirt) of rust-colored cotton embroidery and sequins; embroidered with metallic Odhini (shawl) from Nabha matching batwa (bag); sash of gold thread, ribbon appliqué, Mid-2Oth century magenta, gold and silver sequins, and fringe Red cotton embroidered in red brocade; pyjama (trousers) of Lent by Bhawani Singh and silver with border of gold red, gold, and silver silk of Jaipur ribbon appliqué brocade; shamla topi (turban) Lent by Tikka Rani of Nabha of gold and silver tissue Simon Elwes Lent by Begum Qamar Laqa, British, 19037-1975 Ghagara (skirt) from Chamba Patna (jama); HHEC of India Maharaja of Patiala 19th century Ltd., New Delhi (pyjama) Oil on canvas Red cotton printed in silver Lent by Amrinder Singh of and green Woman's Costume from Patiala Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. Rampur (New Delhi) Early 20th century Dupatta (veil) and matching Odhini (shawl) from Jodhpur kurti (bodice) of pink and gold Black cotton printed in gold silk tissue striped and banded Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. with gold metallic embroidery, (New Delhi) with gold and silver fringe; Farshi pyjama (very long Ghagara (skirt) from Chamba culotte) of gold and silver silk 19th century brocade banded in gold Red cotton printed in silver on embroidered appliqué and dark green purple, red, yellow, and green Lent by HHEC of India Ltd. satin embroidered with gold (New Delhi) metallic thread Lent by Begum Mehtab Ghagara (skirt) from Kutch Zamani Ali Khan (Rampur) Mid-19th century Yellow silk satin with Tamzan (palanquin) from multicolored floral and bird Jodhpur motifs embroidered in chain 19th century stitch Wood covered with painted Lent by Smt. Harshad Kumari metal (New Delhi) Lent by Mehrengarh Fort Museum (Jodhpur) 21 Glossary of Terms Music List

Achkan coat Raga Khammaj Tabla Taranga in Raga Adana Anga coat Ali Akbar Khan (sarod), Vishnudass Shirali (twelve Angarkha, angarkhi man's Mahapurush Misra (tabla) pitched drums) coat Connoisseur Society CS 2020 RCA VIC 1361 Angia-kurti bodice Atamsukh man's robe "March of the Mogul Emperors" "In a Monastery Garden" by Bagalbandhani coat from The Crown of India Suite, Op. Albert W. Ketèlbey Batwa bag 66, by Sir Edward Elgar Eric Rogers conducting the Royal Chapkan coat Sir Charles Groves conducting Philharmonic Orchestra Chaubaghla coat the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic London SPC 21036 Choga, chogha robe or coat Orchestra Choli bodice Arabesque AR 8002 "Kohiari" (snake charmer's music) Churidar extra-long trousers, Iqbal Jogi and Party (been) tight at ankle Court Music in Raga Sarang Olympic Records 6101 Dupatta veil Balkrishna Maruti Rao Shirke Farshi pyjama very long (shahna'i), B. K. Gurav (sambal) "Sejaria kaise aun, candri si rat" culotte, with train Recorded in Baroda by N. A. jairazbhoy (How can I come to your bed on a Ghagara calf-length skirt full moon night?) Gharara ankle-length culotte Raga Madhuvanti, Fast Courtesan's song sung by Jama man's coat or robe Composition in Teental Allahjilaibai Joota, jooti shoes Hariprasad Chaurasia (bansuri), Recorded in Rajasthan by Rupayan Kaba coat with fur collar Zakir Hussain (tabla) Sansthan Kanchli bodice or Bainbridge Records RDS 22 underbodice "One Above" from Current Kantop child's hat "Dôme épais" from Lakme by Léo Circulation Khada dupatta veil Delibes David Hykes and the Harmonic Kurta, kurti woman's tunic Mady Mesplé (soprano), Daniele Choir Lahenga skirt Millet (mezzo-soprano) Celestial Harmonies CEL 010 Odhini veil or shawl Seraphim SIC 6082 Patka sash Peshwaz woman's coat Raga Kaushi Kanada Pyjama trousers with wide, Shiv Kumar Sharma (santoor), straight legs Zakir Hussain (tabla) Sadri vest EM1EMGE 12508 Saree unstitched, draped garment for women "Love You To" Sarpech turban ornament The Beatles with Anil Bhagwat Shaluka jacket (tabla) Shamla cap Capitol SW 2576 Shamla topi turban Sherwani tunic or coat "Ana Sunai" in Raga Asavari Topi cap Moinuddin and Aminuddin Dagar Zari patta belt (men's vocal duet) Barenreiter BM 30L2018

"Bairagi" from Raga Mala (Sitar Concerto No. 2) by Ravi Shankar Zubin Mehta conducting the London Philharmonic Orchestra Angel DS 37935

22 Credits

Acknowledgments Our special thanks go to the Shrimati Shiv Kumari, Kotah following for their assistance in Fred Leighton, Ltd. preparing and installing the Begum Shenshah Husain, Lorepur exhibition: Makwan Arts Private Ltd., Gujarat We are deeply grateful to the Colonel Sir Edward Malet, Bart. following organizations and Niall Hobhouse O.B.E. individuals for material Arthur Bruce Hoheb Jean-Pierre Marque generously donated to the Richard and Sally Holkar Mehrengargh Fort Museum, exhibition: William Judson jodhpur Donald Kaufman and Taffy Dahl TRH Prince and Princess Michael Ariane Lawrence Krashes of Greece Roger Arlington, Inc. Kenneth Jay Lane Tikka Rani, Nabha Brunschwig & Fils, Inc. Gita Mehta Nesle Inc. Capezio Ballet Makers, Inc. Zubin and Nancy Mehta Smt. Harshad Kumari, New Delhi Charivari Sunita Pitamber Mrs. Noor Khan, New Delhi Bill Cunningham Rajika Puri Mrs. Saba Ahmed, New Delhi Decter Mannikin Company, Inc. Emily Rafferty Shri C. Bharany, New Delhi Fogal of Switzerland Pallavi Shah Mrs. Yasho Karan Singh, Goldsmith, Inc. David Sulzberger and Oliver New Delhi Greneker/Wolf & Vine Hoare, Ahuan Islamic Art Amrinder Singh, Patiala Hindsgaul (USA) Inc. Linda Sylling Begum Zamar Laqa, Patna International Playtex (Penna) Co. Safdar Ali Khan, Patna Kenneth Jay Lane, Inc. Mrs. Hamana Khatoon, Pirpur Lord & Taylor Begum Mehtab Zamani Ali Khan, J. M. Lynne Company, Inc. Rampur Adel Rootstein U.S.A. Inc. Oscar de la Renta Venus Trimming & Binding Co. Mme Pierre Schlumberger Lenders to the Exhibition Inc. Shrimati Gouri Parwati Bayi, Trivandrum Scent: Sandalwood, Guerlain Sunita Pitamber, Bombay Harry Winston, Inc. Hem Singh, Bangalore Yale Center for British Art Music sound track compiled and Ranjit Singh Gaekwad, Baroda produced by Beth Greenberg Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto with the assistance of Professor Mrs. Haidar Hussain, Bombay N. A. Jairazbhoy, Gryphon Brijendra Singh, Chamba Record Shop (New York), and Srimati Vasundhara Raje, Dholpur Charles Passy Shri Madhav Rao Scindia, Gwalior HHEC of India, Ltd., New Delhi Begum Naheed Fazaluddin Khan, Hyderabad Sahibzadi Moinissa Begum, Hyderabad Mrs. Zainab Khan, Hyderabad Inchcape PLC Bhawani Singh, Jaipur Gayatri Devi, Jaipur Jam Sahed Shatru Shalya Singhji, jamnagar Gaj Singh, jodhpur Sunder Singh, jodhpur Shrimati Brijraj Singh, Kotah 23 Exhibition Staff Volunteers for the Installation Staff of The Costume Institute

United States Gail Alterman Jean L. Druesedow, Associate Géraldine Baron Curator in Charge Exhibition organized by Barbara Berger Diana Vreeland, Special Consultant Diana Vreeland Charlotte Bernstein Paul M. Ettesvold, Associate Curator Exhibition Coordinator: Francesca Bianco Robert C. Kaufmann, Associate Stephen Jamail Judy Brindisi Museum Librarian Advisor to the Installation: Christie Brown Judith Jerde, Associate Conservator Simon Doonan Abigail Chapman Anne H. Schirrmeister, Assistant Research Associate: Arlene Cooper Curator Katell le Bourhis Mariana Cuevas Beth Alberty, Curatorial Assistant Assistants for the Exhibition: Joel Dawson Katell le Bourhis, Research Associate June Bove Beau Desautels Karen Meyerhoff, Assistant for Sarah Richardson Kimberly Fink Study Storage Richard De Gussi Bogutski Frances Fore Lillian A. Dickler, Senior Kirk Allan Adair Kathleen Garcia Administrative Assistant Roger Roberts Valerie Gimbel Beth Greenberg, Senior Joel Kaye Gregory Gray Administrative Assistant Administrative Assistant for the Aimee Halpern Dominick Tallarico, Principal Exhibition: Pamela H. Osowski Catherine LaRoche Departmental Technician Museum Designer: David Harvey Patricia Lennox Mavis Dalton, Associate Curator, Lighting: William L. Riegel Michele Majer part-time Leonora Messmore Joyce Michel India Anne Miller Elizabeth Morano Martand Singh Marisa Morra Costume Institute Tour Guides Saman Ali Khan Christopher Neuhoff Naveen Patnaik David Oakes Rakesh Thakore Suhas Patwardhan Romanie Jaitly David Pearce Mrs. Herman Brickman Shyam Sunder Nancy Präger-Benett Mrs. William Butler Indu Kaushal Maria Andrea Rizzo Mrs. Howard Clark, Jr. Dean Rorvig Mrs. Ralph Colin Bonnie Rosenblum Mrs. Beverley Chew Duer Jocelyn Schwartzman Mrs. Frank R. DuPuy Nita Shah Mrs. Thomas P. Ford Philip Shubin Mrs. Peter E. Guernsey Cynthia Sirko Mrs. L. Emery Katzenbach Chantal Tanous Mrs. Jerome Lauren Najla Tanous Mrs. Peter Moffitt Wybren Terpstra Mrs. Kenneth E. Rose Maria Isabel Toledo Mrs. Stanley Schaeffer Ruben Toledo Mrs. Jules Silbert Geeta Verma Mrs. Humphrey Taylor Angelica Villarreal Mrs. J. Marshall Wellborn Phyllis Wickham Mrs. Susan W. Weseley Ann Wiss 24 Peter Wrigley Princely India

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