CFDA AWARD NOMINEES/2 RUEHL’S NEW HEAD/3 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 30, 2005 • $2.00 Gwen the Sportswear Garmento NEW YORK — Far from the bright lights of center stage, singer Gwen Stefani is proving her mettle as the L.A.M.B. fashion designer with vision, edge and retail savvy. Just ask execs at Saks Fifth Avenue, Henri Bendel and Shopbop.com, where the sell- through numbers for her collection are considerably better than rock steady. WWD sat down with Stefani as she started work with her creative partners, Zaldy, shown here with the pop star, and stylist Andrea Lieberman, on L.A.M.B.’s spring 2006 line, which they hope to show during New York Fashion Week in September. For an inside look, see pages 6 and 7. Splitting Up Saks Inc.: Belk Said Among Suitors For Department Stores By David Moin NEW YORK — A breakup of Saks Inc. appears to be in the works. Sources said Tuesday that Saks Inc., which is based in Birmingham, Ala., is attempting to line up buyers for its 235- unit department store group, with Belk Inc. as a primary suitor. There are other parties said to be interested in the Saks department stores, including two private equity firms, Blackstone Group and Apollo Advisors. These same equity firms also are said to be interested in the Neiman Marcus Group. While Neiman’s is officially up for See Saks, Page4 PHOTO BY SEAN DONNOLA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 WWD.COM CFDA Picks 2005 Award Nominees WWDWEDNESDAY By Lisa Lockwood in a break from tradition, honored Sportswear photographer Irving Penn. “It’s not NEW YORK — Marc Jacobs, Ralph an award category the board felt FASHION Rucci for Chado Ralph Rucci and strongly about [this year]. We decid- Gwen Stefani croons about fashion as she meets with her creative team, Vera Wang have been nominated for ed to not give one and we’ll wait 6 designer Zaldy and stylist Andrea Lieberman, in her SoHo showroom. Womenswear Designer of the Year in until there’s someone deserving,” the 2005 CFDA Fashion Awards. said Peter Arnold, executive direc- Diane von Furstenberg will re- tor of the CFDA. GENERAL ceive the Lifetime Achievement Derek Lam, Behnaz Sarafpour Sources said Tuesday that Saks Inc., which is based in Birmingham, Ala., Award, and Norma Kamali will re- and Peter Som have been nominated 1 is attempting to line up buyers for its 235-unit department store group. ceive the Board of Directors’ Spe- for Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Award The Consumer Confidence Index fell more than expected to 102.4 from cial Tribute. for ready-to-wear, which continues 104.4 in March, declining for the second month in a row. The awards, underwritten by the underwriter’s commitment to 2 Swarovski, will be held June 6 at the Marc Jacobs supporting emerging American fash- Commerce Secretary Carlos Gutierrez said his agency is on a fact-finding New York Public Library. The nomi- ion designers. The nominees for 3 mission into whether to impose safeguard quotas on Chinese imports. nations were decided upon on Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Award for Terry Lundgren, chairman, president and ceo of Federated Department Tuesday at a two-and-a-half-hour rat- Menswear are Thom Browne, Rogan 3 Stores, has a new pay package that increased his 2005 base salary. ification meeting attended by about Gregory for Rogan and Alexandre 20 Council for Fashion Designers of Plokhov for Cloak. For Swarovski’s America board members. Perry Ellis Award for Accessory MAINSTREAM Nominated for Menswear Design- Design, the nominees are Anthony The sale of Donnkenny to Pacific Alliance, headed by Haim Dabah, er of the Year were Ralph Lauren, Camargo and Nak Armstrong for 8 chairman and ceo, was approved in bankruptcy court. John Bartlett and John Varvatos, Anthony Nak, Holly Dunlap for while Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Hollywould and Devi Kroell. The Janis Savitt for M + J Savitt and winner in each Swarovski category WEST Gerard Yosca got the nods for lead- will receive financial support and Melrose Place is a secret shopping garden, replete with ivy-covered ing accessories designer. product from Swarovski. 10 bungalows, hidden courtyards, treelined sidewalks and pots of geraniums. The nominees are based on votes Vera Wang Arnold said this was the first year received from approximately 80 per- that it asked designers, retailers, edi- cent of the 452 eligible voters, who tors and stylists who specialize in each SUZY include designers, editors, retailers category to nominate designers of the Countdown to the royal wedding…Celebrity housing market…Casting the and stylists. Among the CFDA’s spe- year specifically in their areas of ex- 16 “Dallas” revival…Honoring Yankees manager Joe Torre. cial awards, Gilles Bensimon, publi- pertise. “They’re probably more in- cation director of Elle, will receive formed of what’s going on [in their par- Classified Advertisements ...... 11-15 the Eugenia Sheppard Award, and ticular bailiwicks],” said Arnold. “It’s a Alber Elbaz, artistic director of more focused voting.” In the second To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Lanvin, will be given the Inter- round of voting, the entire nominating [email protected], using the individual’s name. national Award. This year the CFDA committee can vote, he said. decided to forgo the Fashion Icon This year’s nominating commit- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Award, which last year went to tee will be able to vote online and VOLUME 189, NO. 66. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one Sarah Jessica Parker, and instead view each nominee’s collection be- additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL will give the Award for Fashion ginning April 13 at cfda.com. OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Influence to Kate Moss. Ralph Rucci This year the entire 26-member Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill PHOTO BY FRAZER HARRISON/GETTY FRAZER IMAGES PHOTO BY The CFDA also decided this year HARRISON/GETTY FRAZER IMAGES PHOTO BY CFDA board of directors will serve Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- to skip the Eleanor Lambert award, which in pre- as chairmen of the awards gala, which will be pro- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at vious years had gone to a personality on the busi- duced by KCD. Creative director Doug Lloyd will additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration ness side of fashion, such as Kal Ruttenstein, art direct the graphic presentation of the awards No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR Dawn Mello and Rose Marie Bravo, and last year, and accompanying journal. SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Consumer Confidence Slips Again magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive worsen also gained ground, to spending on track,” she noted. these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. By Vicki M. Young WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED 8.2 percent from 7.8 percent. However, the Conference MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND NEW YORK — The Consumer As for the present, consumers Board’s index wasn’t the only con- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Confidence Index fell more than saying business conditions are sumer gauge that posted decreas- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE expected in March, and while “good” inched up to 25.8 percent es this month. UBS economist ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. consumers are still bubblier from 24.6 percent. But those Maury N. Harris, in a daily re- than they were at the beginning polled saying that conditions search note, noted that two con- of the new millennium, there were “bad” also increased, to 16 sumer measures already released are warning signs ahead. percent from 15.7 percent. The for March — from the University The Index, based on a survey employment picture was mixed, of Michigan and the UBS/Gallup In Brief by The Conference Board, fell to with the percentage of con- surveys — both “slipped to four- 102.4 from 104.4 last month, the sumers saying that jobs are hard month lows.” Harris noted that second month in a row that it to get climbing to 23.8 percent the latest run-up in gasoline ● WAL-MART ADS: Wal-Mart is unveiling an advertising cam- has declined. Economists and from 22.4 percent. Those who prices likely added to the sub- paign geared to the Asian-American market. The campaign, the Wall Street analysts expected said jobs were “plentiful” im- dued confidence numbers. first of its kind for the Bentonville, Ark.-based retailer, focuses the Index to dip to 103. The proved slightly, to 21.3 percent Retailers also probably on the personal stories of Wal-Mart customers. The ads feature Index is the lowest since from 21.1 percent. shouldn’t be looking forward to first-hand testimonials from Asian-American families who have November, when it was 92.6. The outlook for the labor mar- early tax refunds to boost retail made Wal-Mart their retailer of choice. The original television, “Consumers are still quite ket also was mixed, with those ex- sales. “Refunds are providing print and radio ads were developed in Cantonese, Mandarin, confident despite recent in- pecting jobs to become available less fuel for households as spring Vietnamese and English with the assistance of IW Group, a creases in unemployment in the coming months essentially finally begins,” Harris wrote. He leading Asian-American advertising and marketing company claims and rising prices at the flat at 15.1 percent. Those expect- noted that the UBS/Gallup based in Los Angeles. The campaign will run in major Asian- gas pump,” said Lynn Franco, ing fewer jobs slid to 15.8 percent March survey indicated that “40 language outlets and in select U.S. cities, including Los director of The Conference from 16.5 percent. In addition, the percent of respondents planned Angeles, Houston, San Diego, San Francisco and San Jose be- Board’s Consumer Research proportion of consumers antici- to put their refunds into savings, ginning on April 1. Center, in a statement. pating their incomes to improve stocks or bonds.” The Present Index also in the next six months edged David A. Rosenberg, Merrill ● EASTERN ALLURE: Inditex, the Spanish fast-fashion con- inched downward, to 115.6 from down, to 16.7 percent from 18.7 Lynch’s chief North American glomerate, said it would open its first Zara stores in Jakarta, 116.8. Perhaps more important percent last month. economist, cited both employ- Indonesia, this year, building its presence in East Asia, where is the Expectations Index, the Franco added that con- ment concerns and soaring gaso- it already operates in Singapore, Japan and Hong Kong. The component that measures con- sumers’ overall assessment of line prices as issues dampening two stores that are expected to open this fall will be run in sumers’ outlook for the next six current economic conditions re- consumer confidence. The de- partnership with PT Mitra Adiperkasa TBK, one of Indonesia's months, which fell to 93.7 from mains favorable and their short- cline, he wrote, was concentrat- leading retailers. Meanwhile, Inditex said it would bolster its 96.1 in February. term outlook suggests little ed in the expectations compo- presence elsewhere in the region this year. By year-end, Although consumers who an- change in the months ahead. “In nent, suggesting that consumers Inditex said it would double the number of shops it has in ticipate business conditions to fact, expectations have lost fear that high energy prices will Japan by opening eight stores, while two units are expected to improve over the next six ground, consumers anticipate slow economic activity. The debut in Hong Kong, where Inditex opened its first Zara store months increased to 19.2 per- the job market will continue to jump at the pump, to around last year. A fourth Zara store will also bow in Singapore, cent from 17.9 percent, those ex- improve, and easing employ- $2.15 a gallon, is running nearly Inditex said. pecting the business outlook to ment concerns should help keep 10 percent over February levels. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 3 WWD.COM Gutierrez Lays Out Ruehl Taps Gap’s Breitbard Bush Trade Agenda By David Moin NEW YORK — Abercrombie & Fitch has a new Ruehl-er. By Kristi Ellis He’s Mark Breitbard, currently senior vice president of merchandising overseeing GapKids and babyGap, who will join A&F’s emerging Ruehl division this month as senior vice president and general WASHINGTON — Commerce Secretary Carlos Gutierrez said manager. “He’ll be the top guy at Ruehl,” said one source. Tuesday his agency is on a fact-finding mission as it prepares to A&F declined to comment on the report. However, Gap Inc. confirmed that Breitbard’s last day at launch a major textile import-monitoring system next week amid the company is Friday. intensifying pressure to curb surging Chinese apparel and textile Breitbard will report to Michael Jeffries, chairman and chief executive officer of Abercrombie & exports to the U.S. Fitch and the driving force behind the Ruehl division. Ruehl, which began opening stores last year, is Gutierrez laid out the President’s trade agenda in a speech geared to appeal to women and men ages 22 to 30, with a more subdued and seductive setting and high- Tuesday at the Washington International Trade Association, but er prices compared with the high-energy, sexually charged Abercrombie & Fitch. However, Ruehl, like barely touched on China, even as U.S. trade officials met with A&F also, is anchored in casual sportswear and sells lots of denim. their Chinese counterparts to discuss a range of issues, includ- Breitbard replaces Carole Kerner, Ruehl’s former senior vice president and general merchandise ing textiles and apparel. manager, who joined Donna Karan International last week as president of the Donna Karan New York The new secretary, in response to a reporter’s question after collection. Recently, Chad Kessler, who headed up and began Hollister in 2000, shifted to Ruehl as vice the speech, said the launch of the textile import-monitoring sys- president of merchandising for women’s and men’s. tem is “all about getting the facts.” Breitbard had a successful eight-year run at Gap, where at one time he was a special assistant to “We will let the process be driven by facts at this point,” he said, then-ceo Mickey Drexler. He also once served as head of men’s merchandising at the Banana Republic sidestepping whether it signaled that the administration is preparing division. to self-initiate a review of safeguard quotas on China. “We have to put Breitbard’s departure puts Gap in another executive hole. The company actively has been trying to in place the monitoring system and we will see what the facts tell us.” find a new head for its Gap brand division, and reportedly came close to announcing that the job was Gutierrez announced the new monitoring system last week filled, but the candidate chose against taking the job at the last minute. and said it would initially provide textile and apparel import The last person to run the Gap brand was Gary Muto. In September, Muto became president of Gap’s data from the first quarter and be updated biweekly. The new yet-to-be-revealed women’s apparel concept targeting customers 35 and older. system will eliminate the one-month lag time in reporting import Ruehl operates four stores, in the International Plaza in Tampa, Fla.; the Woodfield Mall in Chicago; figures and provide the data faster to a coalition of domestic tex- Garden State Plaza in Paramus, N.J., and the Twelve Oaks mall in Detroit. It plans to open its fifth tile and fiber groups that has complained the delay has prevent- store, in Columbus, Ohio, in April. Other Ruehl sites are expected in the Washington metro area and in ed it from filing market-disruption cases. Denver, and a total of 10 are seen operating by the end of the year. China agreed to a safeguard mechanism — or temporary quo- A&F’s shares rose 2 percent, or $1.10, to $55.95 on the New York Stock Exchange on Tuesday after tas — when it joined the World Trade Organization in 2001. An Prudential analyst Stacy Pak boosted the stock’s investment rating on expectations of better-than- importing nation can invoke the quotas on apparel and textile planned monthly sales. “We are upgrading our opinion on Abercrombie & Fitch from underweight to exports from China if it determines they are threatening to cause neutral weight….Comps in the teen-young adult sector have continued to be pretty good, A&F’s comps or are causing market disruption, which the U.S. did in 2004 on and leverage will be better than we anticipated, and SG&A, exclusive of store expenses and [bonuses], bras, robes, dressing gowns and knit fabrics. will likely grow with square footage,” Pak wrote in her report. “We are raising our 2005 estimate from The domestic coalition filed 12 safeguard petitions based on $2.76 to $3.05 and our 2006 estimate from $3.05 to $3.50 and raising our price target to $54 from $45.” the threat of market disruption in October, targeting $1.9 billion in Chinese imports for further restraints, but those petitions have been caught up in a legal battle and suspended by a preliminary injunction for three months. “It shouldn’t take significant review of the facts to discern that China is making massive inroads into the market,” said Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition. “It’s time for self-initiation.” Tantillo and other coalition members claim a self-initiated review by the interagency Committee for the Implement- Carlos ation of Textile Agreements Gutierrez would significantly streamline the government’s review process, which can take as much as 105 days. The Bush administration has come under intense pressure from domestic groups, as well as several House textile-state law- makers calling for the government to self-impose China safe- guards. It is difficult to weigh whether the administration will take such an action, particularly in its attempts to garner support for the controversial Central American Free Trade Agreement. Gutierrez said one of the administration’s top priorities this year is to gain Congressional approval of CAFTA, which would allow duty-free trade with five Central American countries — Costa Ruehl is building up its staff and adding new stores. Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Nicaragua and Honduras, as well as the Dominican Republic. CAFTA faces an uphill battle in Congress this year and strong opposition from Democrats challenging the trade treaty’s “weak” labor and environmental provisions, as well as from Republicans and Democrats who represent textile and sugar constituencies. Lundgren Sees Pay Rise in 2005 In championing the agreement, Gutierrez said 80 percent of the region’s products already come into the U.S. duty-free under a NEW YORK — Terry Lundgren, compensation has gone up 22 shape the retail landscape, trade preference program. chairman, president and chief percent since 2003, to $4.49 mil- Federated announced on Feb. “The agreement levels the relationships and gives our compa- executive officer of Federated lion from $3.68 million. 28 that it will merge with May. nies broader access to the Central American market,” he said, Department Stores, has a new The Federated board met The merger was valued at $17 noting it would create the second-largest U.S. export market in pay package that increased his on March 25 to renegotiate billion, including May’s $6 bil- Latin America and the 13th largest export market in the world. 2005 base salary. Lundgren’s compensation. He lion in debt. May, based in St. He also noted the administration remains committed to the Lundgren, the architect of is set to continue to serve in Louis, owns nameplates such current round of global trade talks that seek to further liberal- Federated’s planned merger his current roles through Feb. as Lord & Taylor, Kaufmann’s, ize trade, and will pursue bilateral trade agreements with with May Department Stores 28, 2007. Strawbridge’s and Marshall Thailand, Panama and four Andean countries — Bolivia, Co., received a 9 percent pay The board also granted Field’s. Ecuador, Peru and Colombia. boost to $1.3 million from $1.19 Lundgren 275,000 stock options Completion of the deal is Meanwhile, a Chinese Ministry of Commerce delegation met million, according to a regulato- valued at $61.07 each. The op- contingent on regulatory re- with officials from Commerce and the Office of the U.S. Trade ry filing last Friday with the tions will vest 25 percent a view and approval by the Representative on Tuesday under the auspices of the U.S.-China Securities and Exchange year, until March 25, 2007. shareholders of both compa- Joint Commission on Commerce & Trade. Commission. Federated, based in nies, a process that is expect- Among the issues on the agenda were textiles, China’s bid for a In addition, Lundgren re- Cincinnati, operates depart- ed to take several months. The market economy status, export promotion and intellectual property ceived a cash bonus of $3.3 mil- ment stores under the Macy’s transaction is forecast to close rights enforcement, a Commerce spokeswoman said. U.S. officials lion for 2004, compared with and Bloomingdale’s name- in the third quarter of 2005. did not provide further details about the Tuesday discussions. $2.49 million in 2003. His total plates. In a deal that will re- —Fahmida Y. Rashid 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 WWD.COM Saks Department Stores May Be Close to Sale

Continued from page one close to $40 in July 1998, when Saks Inc. (then sale, Saks Inc. has quietly been shopping its called Proffitt’s) bought Saks Fifth Avenue. They department stores and has never disclosed closed at $15.37, down 2.4 percent, on the NYSE plans to sell them. on Tuesday. Dillard’s and Bon Ton are also likely to eye Selling off the department stores would Saks Inc. units. So would J.C. Penney and unravel chairman and ceo R. Brad Martin’s strat- Sears Holding, but their interest would be egy of combining the more moderate regional narrower, considering their growth strategies chains with the upscale Saks Fifth Avenue under are based on expansion to off-mall locations. the same corporate umbrella. Belk, a competitor based in Charlotte, N.C., The department store group has lately been a has sat on the sidelines in the retail acquisi- drag on Saks Inc.’s profits. Aside from the 22- tion craze — up to now. Belk is said to be inter- unit Proffitt’s, 38-unit Parisian and 29-unit ested in the McRae’s and Proffitt’s divisions of McRae’s, the group operates Carson Pirie Scott, Saks Inc., and possibly Parisian as well. Younkers, Herberger’s, Bergner’s and Boston “They’re looking at two divisions fairly Store. Stores are in the Southeast, Midwest and seriously,” said a financial source. Great Plains states. “The whole thing would be too big for Steve Sadove, Saks Inc. vice chairman and Belk,” said another financial executive famil- chief operating officer, at a Merrill Lynch iar with the situation. “They’re after pieces.” Retailing Leaders and Household Products & Officials at Saks Inc. declined comment. Belk Cosmetics Conference here last week, said, officials could not be reached for comment. “We’ve played in that [mergers and acquisitions] Saks Inc. is a $6.4 billion company, with environment. We’re well aware of the environ- $3.7 billion generated by its department stores ment and we’re going to look carefully in terms of and about $2.7 billion by its Saks Fifth Avenue what’s the best shareholder value creation and Enterprises division. Tim Belk R. Brad Martin opportunities for us. We think that we have a very, Retail sources said Friday that Belk is very clear story. We’re executing against that story poised to be aggressive in the acquisitions arena via expand in Florida. and we’ll monitor the external environment.” store openings and acquisitions. The company began a Belk Inc. is considered the largest privately owned The strategic direction and priorities for the depart- restructuring process in the late Nineties that central- department store in the country, with over 220 units and ment store business are on executing the vision of being ized what was once a confederation of 112 separate sales last year of $2.27 billion. It had a very strong Christmas the “best department stores in your hometown,” he said. companies running Belk stores in 14 Southeast and mid- season, and last year’s income was $111.5 million. He added that in its top 10 markets, it is growing share Atlantic states into a single entity with a stronger capital Four years ago, Saks Inc. had a plan to spin off its in nine. Sadove boasted that the business is the number- structure and a single balance sheet. The strategy, Saks Fifth Avenue and department store divisions into one player in cities such as Jackson, Miss.; Knoxville, orchestrated by Goldman Sachs, has created a more nim- two separate public entities, but this plan was aborted Tenn., and Des Moines, Iowa. ble, leaner organization. because of concerns about the recession and bondhold- “About 35 percent of the product that we sell in our In addition, a younger generation of the Belk family er opposition on how to split the debt. stores is differentiated from what you will find in other stepped up in March 2004 to run the company. The team Now, with deal-making fever spreading through stores,” he said. includes Tim Belk Jr., chairman and chief executive officer; retailing — from Federated Department Stores buying Sadove also noted the business is focused on refining John Belk, co-president and chief operating officer, and May Department Stores to Neiman Marcus Group put- the profitability of its proprietary brands, which is about McKay Belk, co-president and chief merchandising officer. ting itself up for sale — the time seems right for Saks Inc. 17 percent of sales. “Over the course of the last couple of Tim, McKay and John are the sons of the late Thomas to try to restructure again. Furthermore, selling depart- years, we have dramatically grown that business, well Belk, who was president. They are also the nephews of the ment stores, or at least some of them, would help the cor- into double-digits. We are talking 25 percent, 30 percent former ceo, John Belk. Their grandfather, William Henry poration fund the revitalization of its Saks Fifth Avenue growth on an annual basis.” Belk, founded the company in 1888 in Monroe, N.C. division, where ambitious plans for store renovations The operations added some new brands and brand “For years, they stood by and watched Proffitt’s grow. and a massive overhaul of the Fifth Avenue flagship are extensions in 2004, including Breckenridge, Laura Tim’s generation wants to be more aggressive.” said the in the works. Saks Fifth Avenue is also spending more on Ashley and Jane Seymour, but Sadove added that the financial source. merchandising, marketing and advertising to reenergize department store group “probably launched a little bit Buying Proffitt’s would enable Belk to move into its image and improve results. too many...too quickly and that is what caused us some of some bigger markets. Generally, Belk stores are situated For Saks Inc. management, there’s also pressure to the learning-curve problems.” in secondary markets. They anchor malls and command create shareholder value, considering that its stock — With contributions from a lot of loyalty. The Belks are said to be anxious to price has been wallowing for years. Shares traded at Vicki M. Young Obituary Chet Hazzard of Vera Wang, 50

By Rosemary Feitelberg During his decade at Anne Klein the late Eighties, relocating to the West Design Studio, Hazzard rose through the Coast to open a health club. But about a NEW YORK — Chet Hazzard, vice chair- ranks, eventually managing merchandis- year later, he was back in New York, ap- man and chief operating officer of Vera ing and licensing operations. In the plying for a design job at Ralph Lauren. Wang, died Tuesday at New York Eighties, he had a stint working in design He phoned in a favor from Wang, a for- University Medical Center. He was 50. at Diane von Furstenberg. mer Ralph Lauren employee whom he The cause of death was respiratory “He was a very nice person and very first met in the late Seventies when she failure as a result of AIDS, according to passionate about fashion,” said von was working at Vogue, asking for a job Vera Wang. Furstenberg. reference, Wang said. She obliged, but While the New Jersey native was best In 1984, Hazzard joined Cluett Peabody when he didn’t get the job, Wang offered known on Seventh Avenue for his instru- as vice president of licensing and focused him one in her start-up. mental role in building Wang’s business mostly on the Ron Chereskin brand. “He He and Wang, an art history major in into a global enterprise, Hazzard spent a really protected me and looked out for my college, shared an interest in art and fine good part of his career working in design. best interests,” Chereskin said. “When I design, she said, and Hazzard was an In the late Seventies, he worked bought back my company from Cluett avid collector of Jean-Michel Frank fur- under Burt Wayne at Anne Klein’s Peabody, he tried to find a way to invest in niture and post-Modernist art. Design Studio, the company’s licensing my company. That was not something he Despite their appreciation of aesthet- arm, and occasionally worked with had to do at the time.” ics, they had “legendary battles about day, his instincts really served him well.” Donna Karan and Louis Dell’Olio. On a lighter note, Chereskin recalled [the company’s] philosophy,” Wang Wang was equally impressed by his Dell’Olio remembered how Hazzard how Hazzard “dressed fantastically,” laughed. “He was like a brother to me, thumbprint on the business. The design- wouldn’t hesitate to bound across a room adding he owned so many sport jackets and with that comes all the energy of a er, who was nominated for a CFDA award to greet a friend. that he routinely misplaced them. While brother and a sister.” Tuesday, said: “I think the saddest thing “Chet was so full of life, so enthusiastic walking down Fifth Avenue, if something Wang credited him with laying the is that he won’t be around to see where and had wonderful taste. Some people just in a Saks Fifth Avenue or Bergdorf groundwork that led to the company’s li- we’re going.” have it — they’re born with it and that’s Goodman window display caught censes. Moira Gavin, president of He is survived by his mother, Betty, why they’re successful,” Dell’Olio said. Hazzard’s eye, he wouldn’t hesitate to go Wedgwood’s U.S. division, who became two brothers, and companion, Peter Wayne, who described himself as inside to buy it, Chereskin said. Hazzard’s friend after working with him McLean. Hazzard’s mentor said, “he had an enor- Hazzard, who was known to be health- on the Vera Wang tabletop products, said: Services will be held at 11 a.m. mous capacity to learn, enormous energy conscious before it was fashionable to be “We had a lot of trials and tribulations Saturday at the Cathedral of St. John the and drive.” so, took a break from Seventh Avenue in getting it launched. But at the end of the Divine in Manhattan. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 5 WWD.COM Indie Brand The Balm Lineup Set for Madison Ave. Gallery Walk

NEW YORK — The lineup for the sixth annual customers’ hearts: Slim Aarons’ photographs of Staining the Town Red “Madison Avenue: Where Fashion Meets Art” socialites such as Babe Paley and C.Z. Guest. promotion was announced on Monday afternoon Bulgari will unveil a painting by Francesco NEW YORK — Four-year-old cosmetics brand The Balm could be at the Whitney Museum of American Art. During Clemente from the private collection of Nicola in for a boon this June when it introduces its first cheek stain. this event, which will be one of the biggest Bulgari, a member of the Italian jeweler family. Stainiac, as the cheek item is called, comes in a rosy shade gallery walks ever, taking in 29 blocks of exhibi- Meanwhile, at Donna Karan Collection, the called Beauty Queen and is designed to gradually set in so that it tions in 42 flagships, retailers display the work sculptures of Stephan Weiss, the late husband of doesn’t leave streaks when applied. It features a water-based for- of an artist in their stores. the designer, will be on view, and Ross mula that Marissa Shipman, founder and chief executive of The The exhibition, which runs April 28-May 14, is Bleckner’s “Birds” will be on display at Judith Balm, likes to call a “hint of tint.” organized by the Madison Avenue Business Leiber. Bruce Weber’s photography will be seen Along with Stainiac, which is priced at $14, The Balm will introduce Improvement District. at Polo Ralph Lauren. The Assistants, a pack of three sponge applicators priced at $3 that are Among the highlights are Calvin Klein “Where Fashion Meets Art” will open with pri- designed to keep one’s fingers stain-free when blending Stainiac. Collection’s show of landscape paintings by vate receptions at participating retailers on April Shipman predicts that about 20,000 Stainiac units will sell Brendan Cass, a New York artist. Cass also will 28. American Express, a founding sponsor of the through yearend, which amounts to about $280,000 in retail sales. paint a scene on the store windows entitled, “I event, will donate a portion of all sales at partici- Plans call for the launch of additional Stainiac shades beginning Love New York.” pating boutiques to the Whitney Museum’s later this year. Carolina Herrera chose a subject close to her Family Programs and the Madison Avenue BID. The Balm reached the $2 million mark in retail sales volume last year. True to its indie roots, the BEAUTY BEAT

The Balm’s new cheek stain.

firm is run out of Shipman’s San Francisco apartment with the help of her father, sisters and sev- eral friends. The brand currently offers six types of cosmetics, including lip glosses, eye shadows and con- cealers. It is now available in 1,000 doors across the U.S., including at more than 60 Sephora locations — as well as at several upscale boutiques and spas such as Planet Blue, the Four Seasons and Squaw Creek in Lake Tahoe. The Balm prod- ucts also are available on the Est. ’01 company’s Web site. Earlier this month, Shipman appeared on the Home Shopping Network, her fourth 10-minute spot with HSN since last November. More than 3,000 spe- *May 2-4, 2005 cialty kits by The Balm have been sold on HSN during the brand’s Javits Center, Manhattan 40 minutes of aggregate airtime — totaling more than $88,500 in sales volume. HSN carries three cosmetics kits from The Balm, 700+ Lines of which are priced at $29.50 each Immediate Fall/Winter 2005 and feature three lip glosses, in RTW and Accessories plum, red, and nude shades; a lipliner; a mirror, and a bag. Mon-Tue 9-6, Wed 9-5 The Balm also markets Shady buyer: 800-358-7768 Lady eye shadow for $15, Time Balm antiaging eye concealer for exhibiting: 877-904-3263 $16, Cheek Cocktails cream blush www.fameshows.com for $16 and Read My Lips lip pencil for $10. The launch of sum- In May our show dates have to run Monday-Wednesday. NYC is hosting a citywide event, POW WOW, over market week and the mer lip gloss shades is planned. *Javits Center has to accommodate them. POW WOW promotes tourism travel and rotates across the country. In May 2005, POW Shipman’s future goals for WOW is coming to NYC to help regain the city's tourism trade, and is endorsed by Mayor Bloomberg. We apologize for the the brand include expanding chainwide at Sephora. Also, she inconvenience, and assure you that FAME is worth the trip! would like to expand the brand into the U.K. Outside of the U.S., FAME is a property of Business Journals, Inc. The Balm is carried in Kuwait and Canada. — Holly Miller 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 Gwen the Garmento By Nandini D’Souza was up on the site, Shopbop.com had 65 percent sell-through. Retailers and customers alike seem to appreciate the attention to detail, especial- NEW YORK — “This makes me want to throw up on the spot!” If anyone other than ly the silk hangtags designed by graphic artist John Copeland that change from season Gwen Stefani utters those words, it’s a very bad thing. But tumbling from her lips, it to season. “It’s almost like a collector’s item,” says Ana Swaab, Savvy National translates as: “I like. I like very much.” Merchandise Manager at Nordstrom. Right now, the hyphenated entertainer — lead singer of No Doubt, fashion design- Gilhart thinks the fact that Stefani has pulled off much more than just a novelty celeb- er and Hollywood actress — is fingering a 3-by-3-inch swatch of multicolored striped designed line makes complete sense. “She knows how to develop things — she’s been in cotton, wondering if it will fit into her spring 2006 L.A.M.B. collection, her fifth since the music business for what, 15 years?” Gilhart asks. “Gwen has that learning curve of launching the label in 2004. Forget the rock superstardom, forget having Galliano on knowing that you start something, you develop it, you give it attention.” her speed dial, forget the acting debut in a Scorsese flick. Gwen the Garmento is On the business side, Erman keeps distribution controlled, putting limited amounts Stefani’s reality right now. And with L.A.M.B., she’s proving that her design efforts of pieces in high-end stores, including overseas doors such as Colette in aren’t merely a marketing ploy — the line’s success has more to do with interest Paris and London’s Harvey Nichols. He’s most pleased that currently, from the fashion flock than her fan base. “the demand for it has exceeded what we’re producing,” he says, esti- In town for press appearances to promote her solo album, “L.A.M.B.,” released mating that 2005 will bring in around $20 million at retail. He also has in November, Stefani is also taking the opportunity to meet in her airy SoHo show- no plans to advertise since, he explains, Stefani wearing her own room with her creative team — designer Zaldy and stylist Andrea Lieberman — to pieces is advertising enough, especially when she wore a black cash- present fall’s collection to buyers and editors. Elbow-deep in swatches and sketches, mere hoodie that read “Where did my lamb go” in her signature Olde the trio is editing possible fabrics. English font on the cover of the January Rolling Stone. When Stefani likes a swatch, she meows. Literally. Or lets out a one-off Gwen-ism One man eager to see where she takes the line is Kal Ruttenstein, senior — “Don’t even be jealous” or “I don’t think you understand how much of a love sit- vice president of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s, who tracked her uation this is” — that doesn’t necessarily make sense but perfectly gets the New York appearances on “Saturday Night Live” to “Late Night With point across that she’s happy. For every purr, Zaldy rattles off the fabric’s David Letterman” to the “Today” show. “She’s what superstars wish technical details and marks it with a silver marker. Lieberman then they were,” he says. “She’s ‘It.’ So on target.” In fact, he confirmed studies it closely before putting it in a “maybe” pile. Bloomingdale’s will be picking up L.A.M.B. for fall. “What about viscose?” the platinum pop star asks, As her tour of TV shows and market appointments prove, rifling through the heap. “I’m a viscose junkie. I love the Stefani is juggling a lot with L.A.M.B., her music and her mar- way she hangs,” referring to fabrics in the feminine. This riage to Gavin Rossdale. But she maintains that she’s fired up time, Stefani doesn’t find a viscose, but she does find a white to keep going, especially with the pending launch of a small slub that elicits a meow. “OK, when we get to London,” sneaker line, licensed through Royal Elastics, and a self-im- Stefani interrupts the session after almost an hour, “we’re posed deadline to hit the New York runways in September. going to jam again.” That means finalizing the technical draw- “I feel like everything I’ve done so far has kind of been the ings and sending fabrics for sampling. baby in the belly,” she says. “Right now, I’m ready to do the Later in the visit, Stefani and her crew, including Ken Erman, show because it feels so exciting around here, like it’s about president of Ska Girl, L.A.M.B.’s licensee, and Lisa Jacobson, her busi- ready to explode. ness adviser and United Talent agent, take New York buyers through the fall lineup of pirate-inspired fare. There are Donegal plaid pieces, cropped cashmere sweaters with sparkle buttons, a beautifully cut wool Right now, I’m ready to do the coat with removable ruffled details and shredded tailored jackets. “It “ seems to be amazing,” says Saks Fifth Avenue senior fashion director [runway] show because it feels so Michael Fink, who is particularly impressed with the outerwear. “Big shawl collars, princess seaming — it’s right on trend.” exciting around here, like it’s about Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York, takes note of fall’s knits. “I loved the cropped bolero,” she says. ready to explode. “That was adorable.” ” Going in, the L.A.M.B. team is riding a retail high based on last fall — Gwen Stefani and current spring numbers — some reaching as much as 80 percent sell-through — coming in from the label’s current retailers, which “L.A.M.B. is becoming more and more sophisticated because include Barneys New York, Henri Bendel, Saks Fifth Avenue, Holt we’re becoming more and more experienced,” she goes on. “I Renfrew, Kitson, Nordstrom’s Savvy department and Shopbop.com. never dreamed…I never had the goal that I would actually do a “I’m sorry,” Stefani says, apologizing every time she’s presented fashion show. I really didn’t think I would get to that point. I mean, with a healthy sales number. “But that’s so exciting and weird. I didn’t I’m used to being in a band 18 years before getting noticed.” expect it,” she says. “I automatically thought I wouldn’t be taken While she’s already brainstorming about models, hair, makeup seriously, but I didn’t care because I was just doing the line for me, so and presentation, she says she has a few things in the collection to I was always like, ‘Well, if it sells, it sells. If it doesn’t, I hope that peo- iron out. Namely: denim. ple don’t get in the red too far.’ ” “Everyone warned me that denim is really hard and I was like, It’s doubtful that retailers would want to mess with a good thing right ‘Whatever. It’s denim. Do it,’” she says, pausing before adding, “It’s now. Fink says that on top of the 80 percent fall sell-through, Saks has hit 50 really hard.” She’s proud of what’s she’s done so far with the “high- percent for the first three weeks of spring. “It’s pretty exceptional,” he says. heeled jeans,” a dark wash with dropped back pockets that sits low on “Clearly, she’s speaking to our customer.” the hips. “They’re so flattering,” she says, standing up to show off the Saks isn’t the only door posting such solid figures. “We placed a substan- pair she’s wearing. “When I feel fat, I put them on and I feel a little bit tial order for spring, and 45 percent of it was gone after the first week,” skinnier.” But, by her own estimation, the back pockets are a little off notes Scott Tepper, Henri Bendel’s fashion director. “It’s been remarkable. and she aims to fix that for spring. Some styles were gone completely after the first week. She did this printed “I’m learning — the collaboration thing,” she says. “The more the raincoat that didn’t even last a full week on the floor.” merrier, don’t be an egomaniac about an idea that you didn’t come up Said raincoat, a pink-and-black, lace-printed trench with a black ribbon with, because the whole idea is yours. The whole thing is your baby, artfully tied on the sleeve, has been L.A.M.B.’s spring blockbuster, moving and it’s all about bringing people under the umbrella.” fast at Saks and at Shopbop.com, too. “It’s emotional, girly, feminine, of-the- Stefani is excited to get cracking, especially with Zaldy and moment,” Fink says of the coat. Lieberman, who’s responsible for the one-of-a-kind L.A.M.B. cos- With contemporary prices — while T-shirts wholesale on average for $30, tumes Stefani wears onstage with her band or solo. Lieberman dresses go for $200 and outerwear for $350 — L.A.M.B. isn’t necessarily attract- only officially came on board for spring 2006. “Andrea and I are ing the same fan base that her music is. “She hasn’t done this as an exercise for ▲ L.A.M.B.’s so the same person,” she says. “Andrea is like the New York, her fans,” Jacobson says. “She’s designing this for herself. The customers going to printed raincoat, a way-cooler, street, dark-haired, Jewish version of me.” Barneys or Saks aren’t the ones saying, ‘I need to wear what Gwen was wearing on TRL.’ current spring Stefani, meanwhile, marvels that Zaldy, who’s been designing These retailers aren’t going to buy the clothing if it’s not good,” Jacobson says. bestseller. with her since L.A.M.B.’s second season, also has his own epony- “Obviously, she has a great following, but the key factor here is that it’s a designed mous line. “His signature collection is so different from what I collection,” says Tepper. “It’s got a point of view, quality and a personality rather than would probably wear. And what amazes me about him is that he can design for me and just having a celebrity attach her name to a faceless product. In New York, especially I’ll be like, ‘That is so me. I cannot believe that you are able to be so versatile.’ ” for the Fifth Avenue customer, that’s not enough.” For him, though, it’s an easy separation. “Gwen’s the muse,” he says. “I’m design- The L.A.M.B. customer, however, is proving to be just as demanding as a No Doubt ing with her in mind so if Gwen won’t wear it, then it’s not going in.” fan waiting for a concert ticket. “The moment the collection hits the floor, you know While she’s still on top of the music pile — and all signs point to her staying there the text messages are flying because all the customers flood in,” says Tepper. for some time — she’s in L.A.M.B. for the long haul. “It’s something that is going to be Bob Lamey, president and co-owner of Shopbop.com, which has carried L.A.M.B. what I do to express myself creatively, that is a lot less draining than writing music or since its second season, relishes one anecdote in particular. “People kept calling cus- performing. I love that but I’m being realistic — I’m not going to be doing it the rest of tomer service, asking when we were getting spring L.A.M.B., but on the day we said my life,” she admits of her stage life. we were going to release it, we couldn’t until that afternoon,” he recalls. “The cus- “I think designing is something I could get really good at,” she says. “It comes natu- tomers bombarded customer service with calls, and some of them were mad. One rally for me. I don’t mean that I’m good at it right now, but I could be if people keep woman actually said, ‘It has to be released today, I can’t take another day off of work.’ believing in me,” she says almost hesitantly, as if asking the fashion fates for approval Apparently, she couldn’t shop from work.” In the first four hours that spring L.A.M.B. to keep going with this idea. “I’ll cry hard if someone says I can’t do it anymore.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 7 WWD.COM

In front of her spring 2006 inspiration board, Gwen Stefani takes a break in her SoHo showroom.

New York-based designer Stylist Andrea Zaldy, who helps translate Lieberman, who Stefani’s fashion vision. crafts Stefani's stage look, is now collaborating on the rtw collection.

Stefani, wearing fall L.A.M.B., during a performance last week on “Good Morning America.” STUDIO PHOTOS BY SEAN DONNOLA; GOOD MORNING AMERICA COURTESY OF ABC/IDA MAE ASTUTE SEAN DONNOLA;STUDIO PHOTOS BY GOOD MORNING AMERICA COURTESY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 WWD.COM In the Mainstream The Donnkenny Dance Ends By Evan Clark bottoms business that focuses on replenishing stores mid-season. “The only private label business that is going to flourish is replenishment,” NEW YORK — Donnkenny is ready to start its second life — with Haim Dabah. said Dabah. A bankruptcy court here approved the sale of the vendor’s assets on Tuesday to These businesses will all be kept, as will the company’s Wytheville, Va., Pacific Alliance, headed by Dabah, chairman and chief executive officer. Pacific replenishment facility. Donnkenny’s other lines, such as Bill Blass, had Alliance, which was represented by investment bank Financo, expects to close the already fallen away as the company’s financial troubles worsened. deal within a week. Dabah plans to inject its technology and sourcing savvy into Donn- Details are yet to be worked out, but the final price tag is expected to be kenny’s operations to beef up the bottom line and better serve stores. about $20 million, including the assumption of liabilities. Donnkenny had an asset purchase agreement with Donn K Acqui- The acquisition strengthens the company’s presence in the midtier, as sition LLC, a company affiliated with Pacific Alliance, when it filed Donnkenny will retain its license to make nicole by Nicole Miller for Chapter 11 in the Southern District of New York in February. sportswear, sold exclusively at J.C. Penney. Pacific Alliance already That didn’t stave off interest from other players, including Li holds the master license for Daisy Fuentes, sold at Kohl’s, in addi- & Fung and Bernard Chaus Inc., which also took part in an auc- tion to other holdings, such as the Regatta brand. tion for the firm last week. “We’re not buying it for the size of it today,” said Dabah of In addition to the collection sold at J.C. Penney, Donnkenny Donnkenny, which has annual sales of just over $90 million. “We’re worked up a better-priced department store line called Nicole buying this business for the size it’s going to be five years from now.” Miller New York but became too squeezed financially to get it off Donnkenny will continue to operate as a separate business under the the ground. Ramping up these lines contributed to the company’s liq- leadership of Daniel Levy, who is staying on as ceo. uidity crisis and, ultimately, to its bankruptcy. In addition to the nicole by Nicole Miller sportswear business, Donn- Squeezed by sinking apparel prices, competition from larger manu- kenny has a Pierre Cardin business with Goody’s and a primarily private label facturers and increasing pressures from a rapidly consolidating retail sector, midsize vendors such as Donnkenny have in many cases strug- gled to stay in business and have sought to partner up to survive. “With the consolidation going on at the retail level, it’s harder and harder for the smaller company to survive and make the profits that are needed to keep them in business,” said Gilbert Harrison, chairman and ceo of Financo. “The economies that come from the sourcing expertise are essential.” PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY The sourcing muscle of Pacific Alliance was one of the things that attracted Nicole Miller chairman and ceo Bud Konheim to the company. Konheim could have pulled the Nicole Miller license back from Donnkenny when it went bankrupt but was supportive of Dabah tak- ing over the firm, and independently has a jeans and a children’s wear license with Pacific Alliance. “He has a vision that absolutely mirrors our strategy,” said Konheim of Dabah. That strategy entails using the brand’s higher-end designer offerings, which are worn by starlets and paraded down the runway during New York Fashion Week, as a halo that gives cachet to the more accessibly priced subbrands. Now the challenge will be to differentiate all of the Nicole Miller offerings, said Konheim. The trick will be keeping the higher-end and lower-end businesses similar enough to bear a resemblance — but differ- ent enough to not muddy the brand. Haim Dabah, Bud Konheim and Daniel Levy. ▲ A nicole by Nicole Miller look for J.C. Penney. The Microsilver Lining: High-Tech Sportswear NEW YORK — In between showing off his two new labels, his fashion, you can’t go backward to the contemporary market.” latest made-for-charity iconic T-shirt and his customized col- MicrosilverImpulse by Jeffrey Grübb has some of the same lection for NBA players, Jeffrey Grübb took a minute to help elements as Alchemi, but is more of a better activewear col- one of Barry Diller’s associates select a Microsilver cashmere lection. Rugby-striped crewnecks, tanks and pants are among blanket for the mogul’s private plane. the offerings. Pima cottons are a major part of the mix, and While variety is something Grübb thrives on, there is a com- wholesale prices will range from about $12 for a bra top to $65 mon thread in each of these new endeavors: Microsilver, an for a Microsilver-lined hoodie. First-year sales are expected antibacterial, antimicrobial, thermo-regulating fabric. After to fall between $3.5 million and $4 million. exiting FAL, an upscale activewear firm last year, Grübb has Like Alchemi, it ships for spring 2006 but will be available joined Microsilver LLC as design and creative director. His on a limited basis in June. friend, I. Michel Indiano, Microsilver’s director of technology, The designer whipped up a Microsilver T-shirt imprinted with an encouraged him to make the move. The company aims to com- image of Steven Tyler to benefit Design Industries Foundation bine its proprietary technology with advanced textiles. Fighting AIDS. Grübb plans to feature images of other celebrities on Grübb argued that silver spray-on applications are “highly T-shirts down the road to raise more money for the nonprofit group. pollutant” and are “dangerous to workers.” Designed to last for On another front, Microsilver is offering private label man- more than 50 washings, Microsilver is a fiber that bonds pure sil- ufacturing for firms such as Wayne Scot Lukas and Jerod M. ver fibers to other fibers before any knitting or weaving is done. Grübb has collaborated with Lukas, Janet Jackson’s stylist, to Microsilver is used in linings and armpit insets in develop a 12-piece collection that will be called Microsilver by Alchemi/Jeffrey Grübb, a 15-piece sportswear collection. A Jeffrey Grübb for Wayne Scot Lukas. The collection bows this cashmere coat, pants, crewneck top and “crooked” hoodie are fall and will be sold through catalogues and retailers. A regu- among the silhouettes that will bow for spring 2006. However, lar on the speaker circuit, the stylist offers fashion advice to select clients will start receiving merchandise in June. “thousands” of women each year, Grübb said. With wholesale prices expected to range from $38 for a With Microsilver technology and Grübb’s design input, long-sleeved T-shirt to $2,000 for a cashmere coat, Alchemi is Jerod Margolis, the owner of Jerod M, is offering his NBA targeting better specialty stores. To try to play up the exclu- clients another option. Margolis has a loyal following of pro sivity, Grübb said he will “handpick clients” that he wants to athletes looking for sportswear that doesn’t look as though it work with instead of blanketing stores across the country. belongs on a basketball court. Alchemi’s first-year projected wholesale volume should Microsilver also is making industrial garments such as hos- range between $1.5 million and $2 million, Grübb said. pital scrubs and military uniforms. Microsilver plans to The Italian-made collection is geared for jet-setters who branch out into other categories such as underwear, pillow- appreciate good quality and often don’t have time to change cases and shower curtains. once they land, the designer said. “This is a technology that will benefit all….The applica- “On the weekend, if you’re a spoiled luxury consumer, what tions are limitless,” Grübb said. A top with Microsilver. do you wear?” Grübb said. “Once you have worn real luxury — Rosemary Feitelberg May Issue: WWDEXECTECH

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By Michelle Dalton Tyree Inside the Tracy Feithith storestore onon LOS ANGELES — If this city has a secret garden of shopping, Melrose Place. Melrose Place is it: ivy-covered bungalows, hidden courtyards with bubbling fountains, brick-covered, tree-lined sidewalks and pots overflowing with crimson geraniums. This verdant, sleepy-looking two-block stretch nestled between bustling Melrose Avenue and La Cienega Boulevard has become one of the hottest high-end retail destinations in Los Angeles, as some designers eschew the flash of Rodeo Drive and the celebri- ty-magnet draw of Robertson Avenue in favor of the quaint bunga- lows and Hollywood Regency-style architecture that imbue this street with charm. And charm sells. The area, which, until two years ago, had been populated pri- marily by antiques shops and furniture stores, is now home to fashion and beauty names with serious followings: Marni, the Sally Hershberger at John Frieda salon, Tracy Feith, Italian beau- ty line Santa Maria Novella and the latest, most high-profile ar- rival, Marc Jacobs. “I was waiting for the right location,” said Jacobs’ business partner and company president, Robert Duffy. “I loved Melrose Place. To me it’s one of the most charming streets in Los Angeles.” While the buzz about Melrose had been building, there is no question that Jacobs’ lush, ivy-covered 3,500-square-foot flagship at Melrose Avenue and Melrose Place and the Marc by Marc Jacobs jewel box herald a new era for the neighbor-

hood. Inevitably, that will mean higher rents and land costs TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY and upheaval. “I’m happy for the owners of the buildings. I’m sorry for salon that opened in 2001. “Before that, there were people the people who get squeezed,” Duffy said. “It’s going to who wouldn’t go east of La Cienega or even Robertson.” change it. I feel bad about it. But we’ve never been a Rodeo In L.A., there is nothing like the lure of a celebrity hair- Drive kind of place.” stylist moving into the neighborhood to jump-start things — The lure of Melrose also is bringing Diane von particularly when the stylist charges $600 a head, happens Furstenberg. The designer has announced plans to move to be responsible for giving Meg Ryan her signature look into a 1,700-square-foot store that is to open mid-fall. It will and is named Sally Hershberger. be von Furstenberg’s first freestanding store in California, “I’m so not about [areas like] Beverly Hills and uptown her third in the U.S., and will be the first one to feature the [Manhattan],” said Hershberger, who lives a bicoastal Diane von Furstenberg by H. Stern fine jewelry line. lifestyle, with salons in L.A. and the Meatpacking District in These developments are putting a high gloss on the lower Manhattan. “It doesn’t inspire me in the same way.” street’s cachet, said retail real estate broker Chuck Dembo, Hershberger loved the space so much that she kept key who has handled leases on Melrose Place as well as on elements such as the reflecting pool outside and the terraz- Rodeo Drive and on Robertson Boulevard. zo floors. Maintaining the architectural integrity is a senti- “It’s always been prestigious due to the fact that it was ment that unites many of the area’s owners. And for these isolated, protected from surroundings and had its own Melrose Place devotees, intangible elements such as inspi- quiet ambience,” he said. “It was always very much a desti- ration and charm can be as important as projecting aver- nation with the high-end, exclusive furniture people who age sales per square foot. started the tradition of ‘we don’t want everyone to know Sheila Speer, “I chalk it up to zeitgeist,” said Susan Winget, Tracy Feith’s we’re here.’ ” owner of The partner. “Everyone is very single-minded. The way we found Dembo said he sees the rush as “a bit of a Alley boutique. it was a totally kooky and an emotional decision, because was wave….People will still be focused on Robertson and it was only Sally [Hershberger] and Henry Beguelin on the Beverly Hills.” street. But it was so enchanting, we couldn’t resist.” Rents average a relatively modest $7 a square foot, he Feith’s breezy 1,100-square-foot women’s store is in an said. Robertson Avenue, featuring specialty boutiques such airy, light-filled Hollywood Regency building that showcas- as Kitson and Lisa Kline, has reached $10 a square foot es his bright, sinuous designs. But Winget cautioned that and Rodeo Drive, with retailers such as Prada and Chanel, the seeming sleepiness of the street belies the serious commands $25 a square foot. business that takes place on it. Exclusivity and the charm factor are key, said Sheila “Sales can still be huge,” she said. “One or two fabulous Speer, who for 20 years has owned The Alley, a 1,000- customers in L.A. can keep the [salespeople] smiling for days.” square-foot boutique in an enclave behind Melrose Place known as Melrose Alley. The week before the March 17 opening of the Marc Jacobs shop, the 2,500-square- Speer said that she was the only clothing retailer among the antiques and furniture foot Marc by Marc Jacobs store had a soft opening and did $35,000 in sales on one shops, and she’s thrilled about her new neighbors. Saturday, Duffy said. Jacobs “is the first New York hotshot who’s coming here and thinking about the Even Marni’s low-key move onto the street last year drew fashionistas almost im- city in the right way,” Speer said. “L.A. is not what people pretend to think it is. I mediately. “We moved in quietly; nobody even knew we were here and we were im- think he has the right idea to be [at Melrose Place].” mediately making plans,” said Luca Voarino, Marni’s vice president and director of Speer, who carries local lines such as James Reva, John Agee, Papillon and Mitzi marketing and sales. “We don’t want to choose places that are so in the spotlight.” Baker as well as Natalie Chaize and Neil Bieff, said she has seen a spike in sales Marni designer Consuelo Castiglione made her first trip to L.A. last week to see since some of the big names moved in. Last year was her best year ever, with a 25 per- the store, whose location Castiglione approved after her husband and Voarino found cent increase in sales over 2003. She did not provide figures. the space. “I think the Sally Hershberger at John Frieda salon was the catalyst, because more “It’s perfect,” she said at the belated launch party. “It’s very Marni.” of the city heard the famous names — and that got people thinking,” she said of the — With contributions from Rose Apodaca, Los Angeles

treatment at vanities instead of dressing rooms. You can sit will occupy 40,000 square feet in Culver City in a facility that there and play with all the jewelry.” will house their cutting, design, packing, distribution and WEST WATCH Tarantino-branded sparkling water will also be served. quality control operations. In the last year, the firm’s sales have MELROSE AVENUE ADDITION: Fuchsia-tressed Tarina Tarantino is Meanwhile, Tarantino is launching her first semiprecious line in grown 66 percent to $25 million. opening her first U.S. store on Melrose Avenue west of Fairfax, Milan on April 12. “I know there’s so much semiprecious on the between Agent Provocateur and a hair salon. The 1,300- market so I’m mixing with stones and crystals. I’m sewing EXECUTIVE LICENSE: Licensing consulting firm Gary Caplan Inc. square-foot jewel box will be filled with the designer’s colorful pieces together, beading others. But they’re layered and has hired Josh Wormser to oversee new business development Swarovski crystal jewelry and accessories, as well as her limited-edition.” Called Hand Made, the line will officially roll and grow the apparel, accessories and infant product signature collections for bridal, pets and the Hello Kitty out with the fall market and wholesale between $85 and $500. categories. Based in the Los Angeles suburb of Studio City, collaboration Pink Head. This is Tarantino’s second store. A Gary Caplan works with consumer products clients such as door in the Galleria Passarella in Milan opened two years ago. GROWTH MOVE: Contemporary companies Velvet by Graham & Buster Brown & Co. and Hanes, a division of Sara Lee “L.A. will be very, very service-oriented — in the tradition of Spencer and Wyeth by Todd Magill are moving to bigger digs. Underwear. Wormser, the former president of the Wormser Co., Fred Hayman in Beverly Hills,” said her business partner and The two lines, under the Velvet umbrella, operate out of a a children’s sleepwear maker in Chicago, continues to serve as husband, Alfonso Campos. “You’re going to get first-rate 12,000-square-foot space in West Los Angeles. By April, they a consultant to the manufacturer. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 11

Otis School of Fashion Design MILLA DESIGN GROUP 110 E. 9th Street, Suite C-201 LOS ANGELES BASED Los Angeles, CA 90079 Exciting Opportunity! Instructor for Digital Design PRODUCTION MANAGER SALES DIRECTOR Rapidly growing upscale design house seeks a seasoned ORGANIC BEAUTY COMPANY Otis is currently seeking a part time professional to oversee all production related issues. Minimum instructor with work experience in the 6+ years. Individual must manage contractors in China, India, Ayoung and fast growing Organic Beauty company is looking for a Sales Director that will have primary responsibility for fashion industry using CAD as a design Italy. Ability to liaise between design, merchandising and the U.S. top line sales revenue. Our products are sold in prestige &presentation skill to teach Digital sales. Responsibilities include establishing process for costing, stores and upscale natural food stores. Responsibilities include scheduling, production, resolving all contractor issues, moni- development of the sales strategy, achieving sales revenue Design. BFA & teaching experience toring shipments and price negotiation. Must be detail oriented goals and managing the sell through of the products. Direct preferred. and a possess a strong ability to analyze and solve problems. reports include (2) Account Reps. and part time demonstrators. We are looking for an entrepreneurial personality that is Mail resume to the attention of Bea HEAD PATTERNMAKER passionate about Organic Beauty products. This person must Calderon, or email [email protected] have experience in meeting top line revenue goals and have Experienced first/production patternmaker with minimum 6 experience in strategically planning sales, forecasting sales years. Must work closely with designers with ability to correct and developing quality relationships with key accounts. and make patterns for production. Strong knowledge of This director will report directly to the CEO of the company draping and creating from sketch a must. Full graded and and will involve travel through-out the US. knowledge of sewing construction. Compensation: Base Salary, Commission Structure and the possibility of an Equity Package. ASSISTANT DESIGNER Organized and detailed team player to assist in all design Please forward resume, Attention: Tracy Moran duties. Must have 3-4 years experience aware of market Fax: (415) 457- 4605 or E-mail: [email protected] trends with great style and color sense. Responsibilities in- clude sketching and sourcing fabric and trim, proficient in Photoshop/Illustrator. Knowledge of product development a plus. Sales Associate PERSONAL/EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Well Est. Men’s & Women’s hi-end fashion company Experienced, talented and energetic individual with minimum seeks very experienced & 4 years experience. Must have knowledge in the fashion in- motivated Sales People for dustry, proficient in Word, Excel and office procedures. Handle Beverly Hills location business and personal matters, travel arrangements, schedule Fax resume 310-247-0627 meetings, plan and organize functions, special projects. Must be articulate with ability to multi-task.

RECEPTIONIST Ambitious, motivated recent graduate to manage front desk, answer phones and data entry. Good organizational skills, proficiency in Excel and word processing. Strong communica- tion skills a must. Please fax resume including salary requirements to: (866) 835-0418 Email: [email protected] (Please specify which position when applying) Merchandiser / Designer Three Dots seeks a talented team player for our creative staff. Must have extensive exp. in women’s contemporary sweaters, Warehouse/logistics mgr to Sales Manager knits and wovens. Must possess a great style sense. Offshore $135K LA based. Current exp experience required. Able to accurately identify emerging in apparel co required. Super- Young & exciting LA based trends, shapes, colors and prints. Proven track record from vise 10. Five different public chldnswear co. seeks hghly development to retail sell through required. Responsibilities warehouses in LA. 500 million motivated Sales Mgr. w/ est. include: merchandising, trend direction, retail market research, dollar Co. Ability to improve accounts. Pealse fax or strategic planning & presentations. Min. 3 yrs. exp. distribution procedures essen- email resumes to Position is based in Orange County, CA Email resumes to: tial. Call 973-564-9236 (323) 232-0033 [email protected] Fax: (714) 698-1365 JARAL Fashion Agency. [email protected] 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005

TURN YOUR UNWANTED CLOTHING and ACCESSORIES INTO CASH ASSOCIATE TECHNICAL DESIGNER Asafashion executive you probably have acloset full of clothing and accessories Since its inception, Calvin Klein Underwear has been a market leader by offering consumers that you no longer wear. So why not cutting-edge design, innovative fabrics and exceptional fit and quality. Long known for its turn it into some real cash? DoubleTake history-making, iconic advertising campaigns, the brand continues to evolve. is the country’s premiere upscale con- signment boutique and because we have Calvin Klein Underwear, a division of Warnaco Inc., has an exciting opportunity for an thousands of customers with an insatia- ble appetite for designer fashions, you’re Associate Technical Designer to join our team. As an Associate Technical Designer you will guaranteed to get the greatest return. work closely with the design and technical teams to develop fit from the initial stages through Call Liz (973-564-6464) now to arrange COMP/PAT/GRADE/MARK preproduction, including working from the initial sketch with the design team, through prepa- for a free pick-up and before you know NO grading charge option it you’ll be getting your checks. Online to all countries with conversions ration of construction specs and the development of detailed technical fit packages in Web www.edoubletake.com To all Systems Joel 212-736-5380 PDM. Qualified candidates must possess 1-2 years knit technical design experience - prefera- bly in men’s underwear, swimwear or active sportswear. This position requires experience Customized Knitwear with pattern making and computer sketching - prior grading experience is a plus. A demon- Design Studio strated ability to conduct live and form fittings, as well as communicate fit comments in written High-End Couture form, verbal form and through technical sketches is a must. Experience working with Web Handknit Swatches, Samples, Production PDM, Micrografx Designer or other transferable applications is also required. Men’s, Ladies, or Kids Apparel. Brand Name Design Exp-No Minimum Large units if possible. At once payment. Call 917-612-1094 At Warnaco, we have exciting and challenging careers for people who are passionate about Denim if possible-jeans in all categories. [email protected] Dave 212-997-3511 our brands and are determined to succeed in a fast-paced, creative environment. We strive to Patterns / Samples continually attract and develop employees that reflect the diversity of our consumer base. Any Style, Perfect Fit Please fax resume along with salary requirements to (212) 287-8752 or e-mail as an MS Good Quality - Fast Service Call (212) 398-7700 or (917) 520-5377 Word attachment to [email protected]. Prospective candidates should refer- ence CKU Tech in the subject line when submitting resumes for consideration. Patterns/Samples/Beading SUPPLEX*TASLAN Duplicates Cut & Sew Largest Supplier of IN-STOCK Woven Fast & Full Service- Production Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Solid Fabrics. Available in all Finishes. We are proud to be an equal opportunity employer Domestic/Export. [email protected] PATTERNS/SAMPLES Venture Worldwide 1-800-4-SUPPLEX 212-768-3331 PRODUCTIONS 257 W. 38th Street, 3rd Floor Design Ph: (212) 921-8100 ANALYST/PLANNER CAD DESIGNER Major Import Co. seeks individual to NYC based Junior and Contemporary Assistant Designer PATTERNS, SAMPLES, work as Wal-Mart Retail Link Specialist. fashion house is hiring CAD Designer Fast paced Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks Must have 3-5 yrs. exp. on Retail Link. to work closely with designer. Must be person exp’d. in boards, specs, and flat PRODUCTIONS Duties will include: planning, maintain- detail oriented and have 2+ yrs. work sketching. Knowledge of garment con- All Fabrics & Trims Wanted All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. ing replenishments, pulling reports and experience. Must be expert on Photoshop struction and Photoshop/Illustrator req’d. Immediate payment. We come to you. OFFICE SPACE Call Sherry 212-719-0622. input sheets. Excel skills required. Great SHOWROOM and Illustrator. Must be able to operate Must be fast, reliable, and motivated to All quantities. We are nice people to opportunity! Fax resume Attn: Cathy in a fast paced environment. Occasional learn. Fax resume to: 212-575-5505 deal with. Call Frank Levy: 717.761.3259 501 Seventh Avenue. 212-869-2781 Designer looking to share space. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, long hours required. Compensation Call: 212-719-9127 based on skills and experience. PRODUCTIONS Email: [email protected] Full servcie shop to the trade. Art Director Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. NYC’s leading textile design studio seeks Design Assistant Art Director with proven ability. Strong Career Services TRIBECA PRIME knowledge of Women’s, Men’s & Children’s Established children’s wear firm seeks market a MUST. Please fax resume awellorganized and highly motivated 15,000 sq ft. ground and upper floors. Representative team player. Resp. include: production Hot Fashion Showrooms of all sizes with cover letter including salary Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. requirements to: (212) 947-3338 To work with fashion grads. Responsi- packages, sample requests, design de- No Lot Too Big or Too Small. on Greenwich St. Gorgeous Celebrity bilities include placing students in jobs, tails. Must be proficient in Illustrator. Call CLOTHES-OUT: Landmark Building (212) 966-9939 cold calling and developing fashion jobs. Fax salary and resume to (937) 898-2975 RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH ASSISTANT Candidates must have fashion back- 212-594-2604 Attn: HR Dept ground, demonstrated success in devel- Exclusive to the Fashion Industry MERCHANDISER oping fashion jobs, strong employer Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 Novelty and lifestyle co. seeks creative relations, good communication skills, Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 individual for multi-tasking. Responsi- detail oriented and ability to meet goals Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 bilities include identifying emerging and deadlines. Established industry DESIGN ASSISTANT trends and hands on sourcing. Must be contacts highly desired. Must have BS/BA. Great American Sportswear Co. seeks [email protected] organized and self motivated. 2 years Please email resumes to: ajunior, trendy knit import assistant 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant www.raskinexecsearch.com exp. A MUST. FAX: 212-643-0684 [email protected] designer / product pack person. Beautifully Renovated Creative, highly organized with 2 yrs 2360 or 2871 sq ft exp. Fax resume: 212-382-2549 Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 Assist Prod’n Coord Color Separation Artist Major sptswr. importer seeks highly or- Large domestic supplier of heat transfer ganized and detail oriented indiv. with paper to the textile industry is seeking 50th Avenue, LIC outstanding communication and com- an experienced Color Separation Artist. puter skills, to work in a high energy Must have solid background in separating SAVVY INVESTMENT OPPTY OFFICE SPACE SHARE prod’n dept. Knowledge of Mandarin is colors for screen-printing. Qualified DESIGN ASSISTANT 37th Street off 7th Ave. aplus. 1 year experience. Employee applicants should be comfortable and Women’s accessory company seeks entry Mint Multi-Family Bldg Looking to share space. friendly with full company benefits! familiar with Photoshop and Illustrator. level design assistant. Must be highly organized, detailed oriented person with •Four 2 BR Apts• Roof Lease Tel: (212) 869-8375 Please fax resume to: A strong artistic eye is required. JM @ 212-944-2867 sketching ability, knowledge of CAD •Prof. Space•New Construction Please send cover letter, resume and salary requirements to Attention: and excellent communication skills. •10’Ceils•1 Subway Stop to NYC Please fax resume to: 212.244.0330 •High Inc•15 yr Tax Rebate Associate Designer Engraving Dept. @ Fax:(212) 967-5099 $3,200,000 (low carry) D. Dickinson 212•639•9716 Alexis Bittar is seeking a candidate to ACCESSORY JOBS work with our Creative Director to develop COLOR SPECIALIST foxresidential.com ID#152413 *Assoc. Designer/spec jewelry - $45K new product ideas. The candidate will be Missy moderate sportswear company *Graphic artist -Accessories $50K experienced in mold making, metalwork seeks colorist with ability to forecast Designer Assist $35K *Handbag Sales- Missy/Midtier stores $$$+ and must have specific design experience color trends, work with CAD artist to Must have flat sketching, Illustrating Jamaica, Queens, for lease-approx *Sales Asst for Account Exec. EXP! $50K in jewelry. You must have an innovative color and/or recolor prints. Must shop the [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 40,000 sq. ft. fully equipped garment *Sales Exec -Infant access/apparel $$$+ sense of style and be completely print market. Fax or email resumes to: warehouse with racking system, a/c offices And Many Other Positions Available!!! comfortable in a high paced, creative 212-354-1300 / [email protected] & loading docks. Available immediately. Call ACCESSORY EXECUTIVES, INC environment. Call landlord 516-997-2442 For details on these jobs@ (212) 213-6386 Email Resumes: [email protected] Alexis Bittar, Inc. offers a competitive COORDINATOR Designer salary and benefits. Please forward Private Label Suiting Co. in NY seeks ASSISTANT DESIGNER your resume and salary requirements to: awell organized applicant to coordi- [email protected] Min 5 years exp in Bridge/Designer nate tasks from design to production. after 5 dress market. Creative, energetic Must have 2-3 years experience and hard worker aware of market trends possess basic computer skills: Word, with great style and color sense. Must Best Jobs Spring 2005 Excel, Outlook. Knowledge of contem- ACCOUNT EXECS(High end)...... 60-150K * Designer - 7 to 16 Girls Denim. be an excellent draper, do first pattern FABRIC RESEARCH & DVL...... 95-120K porary market a plus. Great benefits, and assist in all facets of the design Must have Denim/Junior background 401K. Please fax or email resumes to: SALES/PROD DVL CHILDRENS 90-120K * Graphic Artists-Licensing/ Character process. Woodside, Queen’s location. Photoshop/ Illustrator a Must. (212) 764-4599 Attn: JEN/ANGUS Fax resume to 718-204-5081 DESIGNERS (Sr. & Asst) ...... 40-100K [email protected] / [email protected] TECH DESIGNERS (All areas)40-100K * Prodn Coord-Hndbgs/Bckpks. Home furn PLANNING (Retail/Merch) ...... 40-90K * Sales- Childrens/Accessories SWEATERS (Tech/Design/Prod)...... 40-90K Fax Resume to Carla 201-894-1186 or e-mail [email protected] PRODUCTION (MGR) ...... 60-85K Cutting Room Manager Designer EXECUTIVE ASST. (4 positions).....50-70K KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Mid-sized Co. is seeking an experienced 1407 BROADWAY Cutting Room Manager. Fluent English/ SHOWROOMS/OFFICES TRIM ASSOC ...... 40-50K Assistant Embroidery Cut/Sew/Pack/Ship MERCHANDISING ASST...... 35-45K Spanish required. Call or Fax Tom at: TREBOR MGMT Versatile NJ factory w/ Gerber CAD/cut BI-LINGUAL CHINESE Tel: 212-564-2051 / Fax: 212-643-8150 Designer Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 Many other oppty’s Temp & Perm equipment seeks work May-Oct. Active, Call: 212-986-7329 Fax: 212-986-7708, Production Coord $50K Fast paced sportswear and dress company swim, children’s. Overnight to NYC. Email: [email protected] seeks embroidery designer with min 2 7th Avenue - Prime Chelsea Call Rick at: (609) 386-6501 Work w/Factories in China yrs exp in imports. Should be able to 2,750 sf ground floor + partial bsmt [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 DATA ENTRY prepare product packs for Asia and follow ADMINISTRATIVE ASST Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks person with up on all design details. Must have ex- Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Kearny, NJ Spts. Mfr. seeks a bright extensive knowledge of AS400 Operat- cellent sketching skills. www.dumann.com individual w/ min 5 yrs exp in the BUYER ing system and strong EDI experience. Fax resume to Trina 212-302-3318. garment industry working w/ major Bluefly.com a leading Internet retailer Please Fax resume to: 516-829-7881 For Space in Garment Center retail chains. Complete knowledge in of high-end designer apparel and home tracking orders, preparing pick tick- furnishings at outlet store prices is Helmsley-Spear, Inc. ets, bills of lading, as well as perform- looking for a Women’s Contemporary DATA ENTRY/ 212-880-0414 ing all necessary EDI tasks a must. Sportswear Buyer. Designer Extensive correspondence with show- This position offers a unique chance to ORDER PROCESSING Showroom, Loft-Expert-Sublets Men’s apparel mfr. seeking a Financial room. Competitive salary & benefits. work in an energetic and innovative Apparel firm in Elizabeth, NJ seeks a Associate Designer SOHO - 30’s - 50’s All Sizes Partner or Company for joint venture! Email resume to: [email protected] Internet environment, while having bright, detail oriented individual to head Large childrenswear company is seeking Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Have tremendous license. Will do $6M the resources of a Nasdaq SmallCap our data entry/order processing dept. adesigner to do infant/toddler boys. Search- www.manhattanoffices.com in sales next 12 months, $10M following ADMIN SINCE 1967 Company (ticker symbol: BFLY). Candidates Must have a min. of 5 years experience Must be able to sketch, and do prints. year. Cannot handle this financially. W-I-N-S-T-O-N must have strong analytical skills, be a in apparel industry. Duties include: order Knowledge of product development a Showroom / Office / Retail Have everything else in place except team player, be highly creative, with entry, invoicing, EDI, etc. Small, friendly, plus. Will work closely with entire de- We find you space-best deal-no fee you. Only principals may call. No factors APPAREL STAFFING strong written, verbal and decision smoke free office. Salary commensurate sign team. Individual must have good sublet 525 7th/ready or brokers please. WE NEED YOU! DESIGN * SALES * MERCH making skills. with experience. A great opportunity! MAC skills and must be proficient Garment Center Real Estate Call: (800) 955-0805, Ask for Mr. S ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION To apply please send your resume to: Please fax or email resume Attn: Elyse with Photoshop/Illustrator. Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 [email protected] (908) 352-6219 / [email protected] Fax resume 212-239-2766 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 13

"Macy’s Merchandising Group", A $2.5 billion division of Federated Department Stores, is seeking an Director of In Store Merchandising for our growing Private Label Alfani & Charter Club Businesses. As a Director of In Store Merchandising, you will be responsible for the development, implementation and oversight of the private brand merchandise coordinator programs, including strategic plan development, staff recruitment, training, financial analysis and division relationship management. You are also responsible for assuring best-in-class standards for merchandising private brand product. Additionally, you manage all of communication between merchandising, the divisions, marketing and training with respect to your team. This position will report directly to a Divisional Vice President. We are seeking a motivated individual who is a strategic thinker, visionary, and tactical planner. Someone who possesses a minimum of 10 years experience in merchandising and/or servicing. They need to have demonstrated excellence in a leadership position and in interpersonal skills in the retail development industry. A proficiency in Microsoft Word and Excel is very important to the success of the individual in this role. Department Store Account Executive At Macy’s Merchandising Group we focus on your personal and professional growth. We have in depth, on-the-job and Seeking Department Store Account Executive for our NY Show- classroom training to enhance both technical and management room. Minimum 2 years experience working with department skills. We offer a wide range of volunteer community activities stores. Must have a core understanding of retail math. Can- such as working in soup kitchens, reading to children and didate must be well organized, energetic and self-motivated. clothing drives, to name a few! We are committed to helping Must have excellent communication skills and knowledge of provide you with a good work-life balance through flexible all current trends. Proficiency in Excel and Word a must. work schedules and discounted gym memberships and much, much more. We believe that our people are our most valuable Please fax all inquiries to: 212-302-8647 resource! Come join us and start your new career today! or e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 212-494-6824 or email: [email protected] DESIGNER Draper GRAPHIC DESIGNER www.retailology.com DESIGNER Established womens design firm seeking Novelty and lifestyle co. seeks creative Designer house with fast growth seeks HOLLYWOULD highly experienced draper. 5 + yrs exp individual w/ strong Illustrator skills exp’d designer with technical skills and at ASSISTANT DESIGNER amust.Musthave knowledge of social and color sense must be detail least 10 years exp. Excellent growth op- Must have: 2+ years Italian luxury dresses. Organized, detail oriented and oriented with a minimum of 2 years exp. portunity, opportunity to create direction goods experience, spec drawing and computer knowledge a plus. Fax: 212-643-0684 for company’s style and work directly w/ computer skills, fluent Italian. Based Please fax resumes to hr: 212-944-2123 customers. Requires understated elegant in Florence, Italy. Experienced candi- JOBS JOBS JOBS taste, strength in silhouette development dates only: [email protected] GRAPHIC DESIGNERS $70K *Allocator of merchandise-EDI and fit, hard work ethic, high produc- DSGNRS N/B/I PLAYWEAR OPEN $ (1) G irls & (1) Boys. Both Great Opptys! Jewelry Designer *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men tivity, attention to detail, good organi- Lrge co’s seek exp’d N/B/I designers [email protected] Sterling silver jewelry manufacturer is *Designer-assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men zation and computer skills in a de- for licensed or generic product. looking for a creative team player. You *Designer Girls Better Holiday Dresses manding environment. MUST have will be involved in all aspects of *Designer Girls 7/16 JR. Driven Denim DESIGNER A.D. FORMAN ASSOC *Designer-Junior Sweaters worked with designer European fabrics. Hottest garment center company seeks 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 the design process including concept, Prefer exp. in evening and jacket design. Import Production research, sketching & technical render- *Entry Levels: Technical-Design- Merchandise an experienced and talented designer. *Product/Account Coord.-Design Worksheets Prefer University and Design degrees. Excellent opportunity. Fax resume to: Coordinator ing. Must be a self-starter who enjoys Fax resume to: 212-371-4870 working in a creative fast-paced envi- *Production coords - bilingual chinese 212-382-3623 Intimate apparel co. seeks high level *Production:mgrs & coords & assists ENTRY LEVEL Import Production Coordinator w/ min ronment. Candidates with Degree in Private Label Suiting Co. in NY seeks jewelry design or 2+ years jewelry *Production MGR Import Travel Sweaters 5yrsexp.Mustbeadetailed multi- *Quality Control Inspectors- Car Needed Designer an entry level applicant to join our staff tasker experienced in: resolving factory design experience will be considered. Designer to work under Design Director. and assist our fabric dept. Must have Fax resume/salary history to *Sales assistant showroom experience-$ Hi DESIGNERS & contractor problems independently, *Technical Desgn & Assists & Entry level 7-10+ yrs exp. Must be articulate, able strong computer skills: Word, Outlook scheduling, construction knowledge, (718) 609-2726 or E-mail to: to work w/ stores, organize and plan and Excel. Knowledge of fabrics with a [email protected] *Technical Designers Sweaters- - $ Hi IZOD w/strong comm. skills & comp. literate Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) line & product building in Missy / Con- Girls Infant & Toddler, 2-6x, 7-16 good sense of color a plus. Great benefits, (AS400, Excel, MS Word). Fax resume temporary market. Denim experience 401K. Please fax or email resumes to: w/salary req to: HR (212) 684-3295 a plus. Fax resume: 212.221.8135 (212) 764-4599 Attn: JEN/ANGUS Designer [email protected] / [email protected] Wearelooking for a highly motivated, DESIGNER talented, independent individual w/ a min of 5 years exp. Work closely w/ a EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT/ Established Sportwear Co. is developing senior merchandiser to develop themes, unique designer collection. Great op- trends, colors, etc. Responsibilities will PRODUCTION ASSISTANT portunity for a designer with a CON- also include B&W sketching, print & Importer seeks experienced, organized, TEMPORARY or DESIGNER background. art development, line sheets, and pro- detail oriented assistant to prepare spec Must have exp. working in a sample room. duction packages. Proficiency in MAC sheets, develop purchase orders, Fax resume to Joyse: 212-302-3318 OS X, Illustrator & Photo Shop req. track/follow up production schedules, and communicate with overseas offices Associate Designer via fax and e-mail. Minimum 3 years Looking for someone who is independ- experience, MS Word & Excel knowl- Designer/Freelance ent, creative and organized w/ a mini- Missy Updated Active/Denim edge a must. Technical garment knowl- mum of 2-3 years exp. Must possess edge a plus. Fax resume: 212-465-1257 Fax resumes: 212-221-6978 ability to create production packages, [email protected] B&W sketches and line sheets. Please send resumes to: Designer [email protected] FREELANCE ARTIST Freelance artist hand painting designs Girls/Junior Swim for daytime dress manufacturer. Designer Portfolio required. Fax: (212) 944-5127 Importer seeks print designer/graphic artist for private label swim. Photoshop, DESIGNER Illustrator and U4IA required. Must be Top sportswear manufacturer seeks exp’d efficient. sweater designer. Must be able to manage GRAPHIC ARTIST Please fax resume to 212-695-1050 and communicate with professional staff Weareseeking an experienced, creative and have a great eye for prints. Vertical individual with strong girls background. operation with state of the art sample Individual will work closely with our room and onpremiseCAD and Colorist. design staff, translating concepts and Designer/Graphic Designer Salary commensurate with exp. A golden ideas to create and develop prints. Outerwear/Sweater Co. seeks a Ladies’ opportunity for the right individual! Working knowledge of Illustrator and Fashion Designer. Illustrator/Photoshop a Please fax or email resumes to: Photoshop necessary. must. Please Fax resume: 212-221-3964 212-354-1300 / [email protected] Please fax resume to (212) 239-2766 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005

A Leading Apparel Company in New York City consisting of Jacques Moret Inc., SBH Intimates, High Point Design and H.Best/2Xist is seeking talented professionals to play an active role in the continued growth and success of our company in the following areas: DIVISION HEAD - PANTS AND SPORTSWEAR Come join the.... We are looking for a high potential business professional to run our newly formed Pants and Sportswear Division, who "home of the world’s most comfortable thong" will report to the President. This candidate will possess exemplary For 27 years, Hanky Panky has been a leading domestic leadership, selling, and merchandising skills. manufacturer in the contemporary lingerie and sportswear DIVISION HEAD - EVERLAST WOMEN’S DIVISION market place and is now looking to add two essential We are seeking a candidate to run our new Everlast Women’s members to its rapidly expanding management team. Activewear and Bodywear Division. This experienced candidate will have a proven record of success in the area of Branded SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Activewear. This position will manage the Marketing, Qualified candidate will have: Merchandising and Selling of Everlast Women’s Apparel to • A minimum 5 years of major department and specialty major Sporting Goods Stores and Department/Specialty wholesale experience. Stores. • Excellent presentation, strong communication and organizational skills. MERCHANDISE PLANNER • A strong feeling for fashion and a working knowledge This candidate will be responsible for unit and dollar planning, of retail analytics. ability to forecast and report merchandise categories and items including sales, sell through, receipts and markdowns. HEAD DESIGNER - LINGERIE Must analyze business trends. A minimum of four years Qualified candidate will have: experience in planning inventory or business analysis • A proven track record as a highly creative daywear and required. Strong Excel Skills required. sleepwear Designer. TECHNICAL DESIGNER • Knowledge of garment construction and supervisory Candidate must have 3- 5 yrs experience in knits and experience with Patternmakers and Samplemakers. woven’s in major mass market accounts and licensed products. • Intimate knowledge of the global and domestic fabric Responsibilities will include: fittings, communication with and trim markets. overseas vendors, grading spec sheets and knowledge of pattern making and garment construction. Enhance your career with our dynamic organization! Please email resume in strict confidence to: SALES EXECUTIVE [email protected] No Phone Calls Calypso, a fast-growing women’s contemporary fashion Our branded active apparel division requires an aggressive, retail company, currently has openings for two positions: motivated account executive with at least five years experience. TECHNICAL DESIGNER Must possess excellent sales and communication skills and Must be detail-oriented & well organized with 3-5 years exp in analytical skills and be proficient with Excel and Word. garment construction. Must be able to develop specs. Proficiency in Excel required. Please fax resume Attn: "Tech Designer" ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER The leader in urban fashion is expanding and relocating to We are seeking a detail-oriented candidate for our Production Fort Lee, NJ just off the George Washington Bridge. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Department. Responsibilities include establishing production Must be able to handle multiple tasks in overseas & domestic schedules, ensuring on time deliveries of purchase orders, We are currently seeking enthusiastic, high energy production. Must have 1-3 years exp, excellent communication handling vendor correspondence and landed cost calculations. individuals to join our team. & Excel skills. Please fax resume Attn: "Production Assistant" Candidate must have a minimum of 4-6 years experience in Fashion Designer Please fax resumes with salary requirements to: Production and Product Development. Strong communication Graphic Designer (212) 219-9612 skills and computer skills in Word and Excel required. Merchandiser We offer competitive salaries and excellent benefits. Please Production send resume and reference which position you are seeking Operation Technical/Associate Designer with salary requirements to: Women’s Apparel Company seeks Planning, HR, Finance a Technical & Associate Designer, Jacques Moret -1411 Broadway, 8th Floor, NY, NY Bilingual/Multilignual Preferred must have working knowledge with 10018 or email to: [email protected] Competitive salary, health benefits, and 401K. overseas factories. Must know Must be authorized to work in USA. specs, grading, Excel, Word, Illus- We will only contact those candidates for further consideration. Fax: (201) 935-3215 email: [email protected] trator, Photoshop & Colour Matters An Equal Opportunity Employer Fax or E-mail resume to Qaiser at: 212-354-5934 [email protected] Production Assistant RECEPTIONIST Merchandise Distributer PR Manager Production Asst. needed for Trim Dept. Major apparel company seeks well organ- Well established 5 store women’s boutique of Major Missy Sptswr. mfr. Must be ized individual to manage the front is looking for detail oriented person to Alexis Bittar seeks a candidate to be extremely organized & detail oriented; desk and day to day administrative duties. Shipping enter orders, receive and distribute responsible for Public Relations management. Knowledge of Excel a must. AS400 exp. Must have excellent phone manner Apparel Company seeks shipping clerk. SWEATER COORDINATOR merchandise. Candidate must be well Responsibilities include content strategies aplus.Good benefits. Pls send resume: and desk appearance. Must be reliable, hardworking and for the business, product placements, able to handle high volumes. Exp a +. Contemp dsgn firm seeks detail orient, organized. Located in Scarsdale, NY. Attn: Trim Buyer Fax: (212) 764-9275 Fax resume to 212-239-2766 highly motivated, very organized swtr Weoffer a team oriented environment w/ consumer, press materials and strategic For immediate consideration please development of our brand. fax resume to: 212-268-1279 coord to work for design & prod depts. excellent compasation & benefits package. Production Assistant RETAIL...... Nationwide Openings! Min 2 yrs exp, must know sweater GREAT STUFF You should have a minimum of 3 to 5 Temp position, organize fabric, lab specs, Costing & finan negotiations. Please email or fax resume: Better Dept. Store Specialists Manage strict T&A cal, strong excel & years direct Public Relations experience, dips, file, send pkges overseas, need High End Accessories Designer seeks in- E: [email protected] F: 914-723-0626 in a highly visible Apparel or Accessories detail oriented person. Fax or E-mail have contemp eye for Design. Pls store specialists to conduct seminars, run SOURCING COORDINATOR e-mail resume to: [email protected] company. You must possess strong resume to Katherine Youn. Fax: 212- sales contests, coordinate fashion shows working relations with the trade and 302-4347 E-mail: [email protected] YAK PAK,aleading bag manufacturer, &perform merchandising activities in is seeking a Sourcing Coordinator with Merchandise media companies, have excellent various metro regions. Must be fashion SWEATER/KNITS/WOVENS communication skills, be self motivating, 3-5 years of experience. Must be highly *TD/Sweaters-Better Collection Hse $85-100K MERCHANDISING & Production Coordinator oriented, have excellent interpersonal organized, able to work with a sense of and have a hip and innovative sense of skills, strong product knowledge & ability *TD/Sweater-Biling Chinese. $70K style. Large childrenswear company seeks urgency, capable of researching suppli- Must Have Knit Pattern Making PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS to travel. Computer access & skills a must. ers, and able to do basic price negotia- TAYLOR HODSON production coordinator to track deliveries *TD/SWEATERS-Menswear $55K Alexis Bittar, Inc. offers a competitive from overseas factories. Good computer • NY/NJ Metro area (F/T) tion. Candidate will work with Design *Spec Tech/Sweaters $35K Immediate opportunities w/ branded Fax resumes to: 302-834-8112 Department to find the best domestic co’s avail! Degree in merchandising or salary and benefits package. Qualified and communication skills necessary. *TD/Cut & Sew Knits-Full Fashion $85K candidates should forward their updated Fax resume 212-239-2766 • L.A. Metro (F/T) and and foreign resources for raw materials *TD/Cut & Sew Knits & Wovens $65K fashion & related experience required. • San Diego Metro (P/T - 10 hrs/wk) and focusing primarily on Asia. Travel is Please submit resumes to: resume and salary requirements to: *TD/Wovens-Better/Bridge $70-80K [email protected] • San Francisco Metro (P/T- 25 hrs/wk) not required. Please email resumes to: *Spec Tech-Prod’n, Time & Action $35-53K [email protected] Fax resumes to: 508-695-1814 [email protected] (212) 924-9421 PRODUCTION *TD/Foundation-Swimwear $60-$85K Fast paced and growing accessories co. • FL: Dade to PB County (P/T - 25 hrs/wk) *TD/Underwear Mens $55K Merchandiser Assistant looking to fill production position. Must Fax resumes to: 954-341-1703 *TD Childrens-Toddler/Preteen $75K PROD’N COORD $40-50K be organized and detail-oriented. Will be *Spec Tech-Childrens Toddler/Preteen $35K Updated sportswear & dress manufacturer communicating with overseas factories Sourcing Manager *TD Jeans/Denim $75K ** SWEATERS ** on orders, samples, deliveries and prices. SALES ASSISTANT Major sleepwear and loungewear apparel seeks entry level asst. Must be able to [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 multi-task, be highly organized, and Strong computer skills including Excel. Seeks exp’d, organized person to assist manufacturer seeking experienced hard worker. Must be proficient in Excel, Photoshop and Illustrator a big plus. top sales executive in trendy fashion co. sourcing manager. Responsibilities SWEATER TECHNICIAN Work, Photoshop, and Illustrator. Will Proficiency in Mandarin a must. with oppty to advance in sales. Must include placing product in overseas Immediate position open for a candi- prepare production packages, line sheets, Please fax resume to: (212) 730-6983 be Excel and Photoshop literate. factories, negotiating prices, developing date with at least 2 yrs min exp in and pricing. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Pls. fax resume & salary req’s to Steve new resources, fostering relationships import sweaters product packs. Pls fax Fax resume to Trina 212-302-3318 Dynamic Legwear & Accessory Co. is (917) 591-7605 with resources. Minimum 10 years resume to Phyllis 212-768-7856 seeking an experienced, energetic and experience/production background in detail oriented individual. A college de- apparel. Travel required. Good computer Merchandiser gree and prior experience with Far East Sales Legwear TECH/CAD DESIGNER skills (Excel/Word). Must be able to Fast growing Missy / Contemporary Large childrenswear company is seeking a Asia imports a plus, but not required. Est. Legwear co seeks a sales professio- handle fast paced deadline sensitive Merchandiser with girls background, Proficiency in Excel and Word a must. nal to sell our branded & private label Knit House seeks experience designer environment. Please E mail resume to to handle tech packages for volume sizes 4-16. Experience with mass mer- Salary commensurate with experience. Lines to active & new accounts Con- [email protected] chants is required. Please fax resume Attn: Andrew tacts with majors a plus. private label import programs. 5 years Please fax resume 212-239-2766 (212) 997-7273 E-mail resume to: [email protected] experience min. Great Co. atmosphere! Great benefits! Salary based on experi- Merchandiser/Sales Spec Tech ence. Fax resume to: 212-221-1310 Production/Import Samplemaker/Fitter Major import company seeks individual Experienced in couture evening and Senior Spec Tech with sales and merchandising exp. in Production Assistant Hardworking person with highly Great opportunity! Great company! developed computer skills needed. bridal wear, for NY showroom. the women’s athletic market. Should Global Design Concepts, a growing Please call Ron at (212) 317-1418 Leading Intimate Apparel Mfg. seeks possess contacts in both the mid tier handbag and accessory company seeks Must speak Cantonese. Fax Carl (212) 719-4074 experienced & highly organized Spec and specialty store distribution. Excellent aproduction assistant. Must be detailed Tech for Ladies, Mens & Kids product. salary and benefits. oriented & able to handle multiple tasks. Sample Maker Resp incl.: Daily communication with Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 Work in a team oriented environment Production Manager to $125K For contemporary designer. Must be overseas office & factories. Conducts with an excellent opportunity for growth. Far East contractor. Planning & tracking able to cut and sew. Experience with fittings with the ability to translate Patternmaker / Please email resumes to: Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 silk a must. Please call 212-719-0094. changes necessary to specifications. [email protected] [email protected] Must possess strong technical knowl- Tech Designer edge, flat sketching and be computer Fast paced sportswear company seeks SAMPLE SEWER literate. Strong follow-up and analytical individual with 5 years exp. Must be Production Patternmaker Selia Yang Inc. seeks highly skilled skills along with Bra experience is man- able to develop new specs, full graded For Contemporary designer, Alice & Trixie. sewer w/ exp. in fittings for custom datory. Knowledge of Spec/Design & construction specification for ladies; Production Assistant First Pattern thru production. Mostly made. Call 212-941-9076 or 941-9073. packages helpful. Experience with do fit approval, make comments for all Large childrenswear company seeks wovens, including silk soft dressing, Walmart, JCP & Regionals a plus. categories and do technical sketches. production assistant for girls division constructed pants and jackets. Must drape Please fax your resume to: B Farrell Should be able to make and correct to communicate with factories. Must and work from flat sketch. Minimum Senior Designer $60-100K (212) 842-4032. EOE. paper pattern. Computer skills a must. be organized and detail oriented. 5 years production pattern experience. Girls 7-16. Young Edgy Look. Asia Exp A+ Fax resume to 212-391-2821 Fax resume 212-239-2766 Please fax resume to: 212-840-7818 [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 SARAMAX WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 15

Men’s Apparel Buyer We are currently seeking candidates for the position of Men’s SALES ASSOCIATE Clothing and Apparel Buyer. Reporting to the Divisional Merchandise The Michael Kors Boutique on Madison Avenue is looking for Manager, this individual will be responsible for all aspects of an experienced and eager sales professional. Must have a category management and purchasing relating to the Men’s client book and 3+ years in a luxury retail environment. Candie’s, one of the hottest names in Junior fashion, footwear categories. Category mix consists of basic, promotional, and and accessories seeks candidates for the following positions: seasonal items. Email resume with salary requirements to: Fashion Coordinator [email protected] The ideal candidate must possess the following: We are an equal opportunity employer. M/D/F/V Assistant to Fashion Director. Responsibilities include: trend •Minimum of 5 years buying experience in a retail multi-store presentations, textile artwork, & product approval. Photoshop environment. and Illustrator preferred. Three years experience. •Ability to travel. An exclusive women’s high end apparel JAY KOS Brand Coordinator E-mail resumes and salary history: company is seeking STORE MGRS & MANAGER/SALESPERSON Assistant to Brand Manager. Responsibilities include: daily SALES ASSOCIATES with experience Unique men’s store seeks Manager/ [email protected] in a design driven, luxury goods environ- Salesperson. Must have experience licensee correspondence, tradeshow and marketing coordina- WWW.FARMANDFLEET.COM ment for 2 of our flagship outlet stores. in made to measure and managing. tion. Three years experience. New York City & Woodbury Commons For an interview, please send resume to: FAX: (212) 319-4074 Email resumes to: [email protected] An Equal Opportunity Employer Tobacco / Drug - Free Environment OPEN HOUSE E-MAIL: [email protected] or No phone or agency calls, please Elie Tahari [email protected] 417 West Broadway Please visit our websites: Thursday, April 7, 2005 www.candies.com 3:00pm - 8:00pm www.candiesfoundation.org Store Manager: (4+ yrs management exp) w/ excellent collaborative & lead- ership capabilities. Sales Associates: (2+ yrs exp) w/ pro- SALES SUPPORT ven track record of increased sales. Chicago jewelry manufacturer seeks highly motivated & experienced indi- Be sure to bring a copy of your resume! vidual for sales support with 2-3 years www.elietahari.com/careers experience required. Responsibilities include sales analysis, orders & account maintenance. Ideal candidate must be GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN organized, team player, with excellent ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE communication, & computer skills, & Intimate Apparel Company seeks sales Leading China Textiles/Garment vertical Retail Sales Associate the ability to multi task in a fast paced professional for Target and Wal-Mart mill, w/est’d. NYC office, seeks aggressive Madison Avenue Boutique seeks outgo- environment. Retail experience preferred. International divisions. Successful can- Sales Executive. Must have relationships ing, bright, energetic individual for Full benefits. Please forward your resume didate should have understanding of with Manufacturers & Stores. retail store. Must have experience, & salary requirements to: the mass market and be willing to travel. SALARY+COMMISSION+BENEFITS !!! strong selling skills, and be computer Email: [email protected] Strong organizational, communication and Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: savvy. No phone calls please. Fax or Fax: (312) 583-3243 computer skills essential. Competitive 212-643-9318 / [email protected] resume/salary history to: 212-650-0469 Industry Specific Executive Search salary and benefits. Email resumes to: Our clients are seeking SKILLED APPAREL DESIGNERS [email protected] (tech & creative), MERCHANDISERS (including VISUAL), SALES (technology and apparel) Marketing Associate and APPAREL INDUSTRY EXECUTIVES in all areas. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE BRIDAL Major wholesale company seeks individual A firm specializing in wedding gown Please send resumes to [email protected] w/athletic experience dealing w/ sporting cleaning and restoration seeks a crea- For open positions, go to: goods and specialty stores. Mid tier a plus. tive, motivated individual with a strong http://www.walterwilhelmassoc.com/exesearch.htm Fax resume 212-239-2766 background in bridal sales or market- ing to generate new relationships with salons and to work with established accounts. Salary + benefits. INDEPENDENT SALES DESIGNER BATH BLOOMERS E-mail resume: [email protected] SALES MANAGERS Est evening dress mfr seeking Bath Bloomers, a bath & body product REPRESENTATIVES designer. Min 3-5 yrs exp line based on aromatherapy is looking req’d. Ability to research fab- for Seasoned Sales Managers. Candidates SALES EXECUTIVE The I Love Liberace brand has signed a global, ric and trim markets and de- must be willing to cultivate new business Leading Intimate Apparel Company is multiyear, exclusive and first-of-its-kind license to relationships with prestigious hotels, currently seeking an experienced sales velop product w/ commer- resorts & spas, maintain & train existing professional. The ideal candidate will create funky, trendy and cheeky products utilizing the vast Liberace archival cial appeal a must. Knowl- accounts, plan special events & partici- have a minimum of 2 years sales expe- image library. Liberace, world famous pianist and the original King of edge of construction and E-Commerce Manager pate in national trade shows. Travel rience at the department and specialty Bling™, is enjoying a renaissance as an icon of showmanship and flam- required. Hiring territories through-out store level. Computer literacy a must. costing for both domestic and Famous Historical Restaurant the US. [email protected] Competitive salary and benefits. Great boyance! Be among the first Sales Representatives in the world afforded import product. Must be organ- seeks E-commerce Manager opportunity for growth for the right this unique opportunity! The initial collection from I Love Liberace will ized, computer literate and with 3-5 years minimum candidate! Please email resumes to: [email protected] introduce handbags, shirts and beach towels featuring vintage Liberace ablity to work in a fast experience. We offer a images and can be viewed online at: www.ILoveLiberace.com. We are paced environment. Send re- competitive salary and currently interviewing independent sales representatives for all US and sume and salary req to: benefits package. International territories. Please email a letter of introduction and a brochure fax: 212-764-8957 or If interested fax resume: CHILDREN’S APPAREL SALES EXECUTIVE describing your firm to [email protected] [email protected] to (212) 877-7869 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Missy woven shirts mfr. seeks sales pro for NY showroom. Must have strong dept. SHOWROOM LOCATION and chain store contacts. Fax resume to Weare seeking a motivated children’s (201) 330-0002 Jr. & Missy Reps Tech Design apparel Account Executive for our midtown Tampa based new Junior and Missy Technical Designers showroom location. This candidate embellished sportswear company seeks SR/JR TDS for Jr, OPENINGS will be responsible for developing and multiple line Sales Reps who have *Tech. Dsgn Mgr-Exp. w/ Woven Bottom WGTS maintaining new and existing sales existing customers and well established Msy, Plus Sportswear *Tech. Dsgnr-C.N.S Knits & Sweaters accounts. This individual should have contacts to sell line to boutiques and Woven & cut & sew knits with 3+ yrs *Tech. Dsgnr-Knits, Wovens, Denim-Phila. Loc aminimum of 2 years of showroom SALES EXECUTIVES majors across the country. exp. Approve fit & construction, spacing, *Tech. Dsgnr-Childrenswear Exp. sales experience. This individual Est’d. Contemporary Sportswear Co. seeks Please call: (813) 890-8989 or grading, follow-up, daily comm w/ over- See other listings @ should be professional, organized, Fax: (813) 890-8987 seas via fax/email. Maintain tech pack- •Exp’d. Acct. Exec to handle existing www.apparelstaffing.com or detail-oriented, and able to multi-task major private label accts./specialty stores. ages concept through production. Fax resume to: (212) 302-1161 across a wide spectrum of duties. Candidates Knowledge of pattermaking, Excel, •Additional Acct. Exec w/min. 2-3 years ROAD REP DESIGNER/Intimate Apparel must have excellent written, verbal, exp. to handle specialty stores and some Former well known designer of fashion Outlook a must. and telephone communication skills. 2Contemporary imported lined of Suits major accts. Fax or E-mail resumes to: and Sweaters available. All territories forward Daywear & Sleepwear Company Excellent salary & benefits. is willing to take the right company to Tech Design Asst Trim Buyer/Production Please email your resume to: 212-354-0132 / [email protected] open. Please Call or Fax Mr. Chevlin at: Tel: 305-725-2899 / Fax: 954-370-6614 the next level. Prepare design/spec sheets for fit ses- Entry Level [email protected] or fax to: Call or E-mail Lydia at: sions, In/out smpl tracking A/W spec Fast-paced children’s wear mfr. will- 212-643-2826. Please no telephone 413 528 8402 / [email protected] sheets, daily follow-up and date entry. ing to train a highly motivated, bright, calls. EOE Min 1 yr exp preferred. well-organized individual. Excellent work environment and growth poten- SALES PRO SALES PRO Both positions require you to be organ- tial. Fax resume: Cindy: 212-763-1667 MAKE MONEY! Sock importer, big Great diversified experience and ized and detail oriented team players. inventory seeks Pro with contacts in background; strong knowledgeable Able to fit in a fast paced environment. GREAT COMMISSION Mass Merchants & Discounters. sales/marketing skills. Call {212} 686-4607 Pls fax resume to Annie: 212-400-1288 High profile Furniture Design store lo- Call: (347) 680-3340 or Fax: (908) 862-0044 ULTRA PINK cated in Soho seeks someone highly motivated and organized and with an SOURCING / Jr. Sportswear Co. interest in design to act as a Sales Rep. TECHNICAL DESIGN Looking to fill the following positions: Submit resumes to: [email protected] PROD’N. PROFESSIONAL -Dir. Knits/Sweaters •DESIGNER Sales Rep - Men’s/Women’s Iamcurrently employed in a VP capacity -Sr. Tech & Tech Wovens Seeking exp’d. individual proficient in Leading NY based jobber seeks for a major Apparel Mfr. I am a highly all phases of design including sketching, West Coast Sales Rep with experience exp’d. professional with an extensive Ann Taylor is one of the fastest-growing background in Global Sourcing, Produc- specialty retailers and we currently specs, and designing on Photoshop. Must in selling off-price branded merchandise. be organized, detail oriented, and able GREAT OPPORTUNITY Must have the right contacts! tion / PD, Quality and Operational Supply have opportunities available in our ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Chain Management / Systems. I am inter- Technical Division. Qualified candidates to identify emerging trends. Overseas/ Please fax resume to: (212) 944-3137 India & China experience preferred. Young, aggressive women’s apparel ested in a new opportunity with a com- will have excellent knowledge of company that specializes in European pany who can utilize all of my talents patternmaking and garment construction; •PRODUCTION/SPEC TECHNICIAN designed knit sweaters, novelty tees to its maximum potential. E-mail to: good verbal and written communications Great opportunity for a motivated, organ- and denim has an exciting opportunity [email protected] skills; & proficiency in computer applications. ized individual proficient in technical, flat, available in our New York showroom. SALES/ SALES ASST/CLERICALS For consideration, please email your resume, and sketching in Illustrator/Photoshop. Weare looking for an aggressive Account Lg wo suit hs looking for well org indiv indicating Job Code "TD" in subject line, Must be able to build technical tech pack- to assist in sales. Also looking for sales Suit/Seperates Designers Executive with 3-5 years experience with Very exp - worked with best in industry. to: [email protected], or fax ages &correspond w/overseas factories. contacts in major and specialty stores. people with proven track records. to 212-536-4385. EOE. Prefer Overseas/India/China experience. Fax resume for interview :(212)302-5259 Fresh Contemp/ Young missy look. Salary, incentives and/or commission Freelance or P/T Call: 212-252-9370 Ann Taylor •PRODUCTION COORDINATOR based on experience and sales volume. Seeking skilled professional with strong Please fax resume, Attn: Ronen communication/technical skills to handle (954) 965-4443 or all aspects of overseas production, writing Email: [email protected] Technical Designer orders to overseas factories, follow up, SWEATER SALES Immediate opening for 2 positions - scheduling shipments from various suppli- Woven and Knit. Fast paced company. ers, order entry, issuing pick tickets, Account Executive Must know how to spec garments, and follow up w/warehouse. Generating 45 Years Established all sales reports, shipped, open order, Great Opportunity !!! Canadian Sweater Importer seeks Sales approve grades, generate initial devel- Est’d Imp Co. seeks aggressive/exp’d opment specs, work directly with over- inventory. Margin reports on a daily basis. Professional with strong background for 5 years experience req’d. Sales Exec for Budget Price Missy/ NY Showroom. Fax or E-mail resume to: seas to make adjustments. Very organ- Plus Sizes Sptswr. Must have current ized and detail oriented. Knowledge of Fax resumes to 212-869-6191 212-730-4977 contacts w/ Speciality Chains/Mass [email protected] Excel, Illustrator or Color Matters a Retailers and Pvt Label. Excellent plus. Fax resume to Alan 212-997-9284. Sal/Comm & benefits. Please Fax Resume: 212-840-2796/ Email: [email protected] Technical Designer/Prod’n. "Trend Merchandise" Ladies’ Mfr. seeks highly organized & Mfr. of Licensed Apparel & Accessories detail oriented individual w/min. 3 years seeks a motivated individual to work exp. in Tech Design. Must have great JUNIOR’S CO w/retail accounts nationwide. Must have written/communication skills and exp. Seeks sales person for est’d, vertical good follow-up/communication/computer in preparing tech packs for overseas mfr. Min 3 yrs Junior’s exp req. Must skills. Min. 2 years sales experience req’d. factories. Must understand calendar dead- have strong relationships with moderate Exp. w/licensed merchandise a plus. Air lines, be able to run production fittings, specialty stores and pvt label. Pls send travel to accounts/trade shows req’d. NY and have knowledge of garment construc- resume and salary req to: F: 212-354- based position. Fax/E-mail: 718-441-8624 tion. Please Fax resume: 212-358-0031 4379 or Email: [email protected] [email protected] 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 30, 2005 WWD.COM Royal Preparations ● On the Market ● Penny Pinching

which she is hoping to get $11 million. The place has eight Sharon Stone bedrooms, 11 fireplaces, a pool and a dock. Lopez already is planning to move into a $10 million penthouse nearby with her husband, Marc Anthony. As for Britney Spears, she’s still having trouble unloading the 4,400-square-foot, three bedroom, four-level loft with 13- foot ceilings, wood-burning fireplaces, a solarium and a rooftop terrace in Manhattan’s East Village, where she lived before she married Kevin Federline last year. She just dropped the price by almost a million dollars from the $6 million figure she was asking for the house last July. ● Out of Down Under comes the news that the Nicole Kidman-Steve Bing romance is getting warmer and warmer. This since Nicole has said she wants to get married again and have more children. At the present time, she is back home in Sydney, and Steve just happened to fly down there “on business.” While “on business,” Nic and Steve played a round of golf, went to a sports game and had dinner with Kidman’s parents. Nice work if you can get it. ● Who wore a white dress by Roberto Cavalli with $2 million worth of diamonds to her 36th birthday party at Tandra, a London nightclub? Why, Mariah Carey,whose bash cost her $60,000 including a $10,000 life-sized cake modeled after the bosomy diva herself. ● It is said that Catherine Zeta-Jones wants to costar in the movie version of “Dallas,” the Eighties TV hit. She would take on the role of Pamela Barnes Ewing, the wife of J.R. Ewing’s brother, Bobby, which was originally played by Victoria Principal. The flick, which would bring the Ewing family into the 21st century, is scheduled to come out in 2006. Brad Pitt also is being courted to take on one of the parts. What about Jennifer Aniston? She could play Linda Gray’s old role as Sue Ellen. And maybe they could find a little something for Angelina Jolie. Nothing like keeping an old chestnut hot. I mean “Dallas,” of course, not Angelina Jolie. ● Penélope Cruz loves Matthew McConaughey, and he loves her back. “Me (sic) and Matthew will be apart for four months while I go to Europe to work. But when I’m back, it would be really nice if we could be together forever.” Hint, hint? ● Suzy Calvin Klein, Mariska By Aileen Mehle Hargitay, Stephanie March and Malaak Compton-Rock will host Although reports from London herald the the kickoff for Safe Horizons’

news that Betsy Bloomingdale, the social MITCHELL GERBER/CORBIS BY VITTADINI THEO WARGO/WIREIMAGE.COM; BY SARANDON JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE.COM; STONE PHOTO BY Champion Awards at Calvin’s star of Beverly Hills, and Blaine and Robert Madison Avenue store on April eye® Trump of New York have been invited to the 7. The committee includes wedding of the Prince of Wales and Camilla Muffie Potter Aston, Cynthia Adrienne Vittadini Parker Bowles, the truth is they haven’t. That doesn’t Lufkin, Amanda Hearst and mean the Prince and Camilla aren’t frightfully fond of Grace Hightower De Niro. The Betsy and the Trumps, but the actual wedding is simply a Yankees’ Joe Torre will be small family affair and will only last for 20 minutes. honored for founding his own The Prince and his bride-to-be will arrive at the April 8 special do-gooder organization, nuptials in a 1962 Rolls Royce Phantom V, which belonged the Safe at Home Foundation, at to Charles’ grandmother, Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. Safe Horizons’ main event on The Prince’s older son, Prince William, and Camilla’s son, May 10. Susan Sarandon, Jane Tom Parker Bowles,will serve as witnesses at the Hampton and Michael Bolton are ceremony, which will take place in the Ascot Room at the on that night’s committee. Guildhall in Windsor. Prince Harry; Prince Andrew; Prince ● Edward and the Countess of Wessex, and Anne, the Rod Stewart says he would like Princess Royal and her husband, Timothy Laurence, as to start a family with Penny Susan Sarandon well as Camilla’s father, Major Bruce Shand, and her Susan Sarandon Lancaster after they get married daughter, Laura Parker Bowles,will be among the 30 next winter in Palm Beach, but guests. The reception afterward will be a different affair “I’ll have to see how much I have saved up by then.” That altogether, where 700 people will feast on Charles’ favorite will depend on whether his estranged wife, Rachel Hunter, cake, made by a 74-year-old Scottish granny. Guests at the gets the $70 million she’s asking for to give him the divorce reception will include a long list of royals and a smattering he wants. Isn’t it romantic? of show people. The honeymoon will be spent on the ● Royal Balmoral estate, where Camilla will be known to the Albert Hadley is the honorary chairman of the very first Scots as the Duchess of Rothesay. “President’s Preview” of the Kips Bay Decorator Show ● House on April 12. Joanne de Guardiola, Charlotte Moss Real estate notes from all over: Sharon Stone has and Adrienne Vittadini are the co-chairs of the evening and finally found a buyer for Sea Cliff, the house in San the hostesses of the benefit dinner afterward at the Union Francisco where she lived with her now-ex-husband, Phil Club. Designer David Monn will use fabrics from the new Bronstein. The house has been on the market for $15 Brooks Brothers Home Collection on the dining room million since the couple broke up two years ago and tables. The night will honor the designers who are Sharon moved to Hollywood. Now she is concentrating on creating the show house’s trend-setting rooms, including getting into tip-top shape to reprise her role as crime Ann Getty, who has been scouring the D&D Building to novelist Catherine Tramell in “Basic Instinct 2: Risk find furniture and fabrics for the dramatic library she’s Addiction,” costarring Bill Murray. The rumor is that designing. Ann is, of course, the wife of San Francisco Sharon will keep her old-school tie on in the sequel and billionaire Gordon Getty and their own home in San one hears Murray has promised to keep his legs crossed. Francisco’s Pacific Heights is one of the most glorious Jennifer Lopez is selling her Miami Beach house, for houses in the country.