Santiago De Compostela As a City of Flows

Ciclo de Conferencias VIA LACTEA March 2015

Santiago de Compostela as a City of Flows

From the field research of the Laboratory Takenaka of Geography, Aichi Prefectural University: 2012-2014

Katsuyuki TAKENAKA Aerial image of Santiago INTRODUCTION 1 City of Flows ▶ Manuel Castells, sociologist of Span- ish origin, set the expanding space of flows against the conventional space of places. The space of flows share determined func- tions , linked by electronic circuits and fast transportation, and isolates human experi- ences in the space of places. ▶ City of flows can be understood as a type of urbanity that nourishes itself from different kinds of flows. In Japan, discussion has been done around the importance of human flows, particularly of non-resident population, as a vital power to empower small and medium-sized cities in decaying process. Source: Google Earth.

マイル 3 km 6 Santiago Cethedral INTRODUCTION 2 Santiago as a city of flows ▶ Santiago has a permanet population (residents) of some 95.000 in its municipal area, and near 180.000 in the metropolitan area. The real vital power, however, consists in its daily human inflows, that is, around 100.000 non-residents (Atlas Socioeconómico de Galicia Caixano- USC va). ▶ Among the most representative daily flows, we can cite tourists and pilgrims, university students, government employ- ees, or people who come to Santiago to re- ceive medical service.

Source: Concello de Santiago. Santiago Cethedral INTRODUCTION 3 Santiago as a city of places ▶ Against the flow-based conception of San- tiago, we can also understand this capital city as a city of places. ▶ For example, Obradoiro is the central square, where numerous collectivities, such as officials, students, tourists, pilgrims, are USC present (The Hospital used to attend pilgrims and cure sick people). However, it is also a place of memory, which embodies the experience of important popular events. ▶ Maybe the same can be said with the Praza Universidade. It is one of the most busy gateways to the USC, but also a meeting place, a “cafe”, known and used by everyone. SantiagoAerial image Cethedral of Santiago INTRODUCTION 4 Crossroads make city ▶ Mikio Wakabayashi, a Japanese sociologist, asserts that city is a nodal point where different kinds of human communications (economy, politics, religion, etc.) meet one another, giving place to a sedentary as yet ever evolv- ing human life. ▶ When different kinds of flows interact, making the built environment a privileged scene to store collective memory, we can say that we have a city. This is a kind of urbanity where the space of flows do not exclude the space of places, a space where crossroads make city.

Source: Concello de Santiago. Streets in a theme park INTRODUCTION 5 Managing flows and places ▶ So, struggle of a city to survive in the era of globalization is, to a greater extent, a collective task for managing between flows and places. ▶ Gaining more flows helps the city keep a

Source: Poble Espanyol. decent position in the global economy. How- A hub station ever, if anonyim flows overwhelm the places of citizens, the city’s momumental streets can be reduced to places for nostalgy. Also, a whole city can get minimized to a simple logistic infrastructure serving the global economic power. Then, the city runs the risk of UrBanalization, a concept brought up by the Spanish geographer, Francesc Muñoz. Santiago at different scales INTRODUCTION 6 Approaching Santiago ▶ Laboratory Takenaka of Geography (Aichi Prefectural University) conducted a field survey in Santiago from 2012 to 2014. ▶ The main purpose of the research was to verify if the two dimensions discussed, city of

Source: Google Earth. flows and city of places, interact each other

マイル 3 km 6 leading to a dynamic process, in which not only the places call for flows, but also the flows contribute to activate places. ▶ This approach is particularly useful in a medium-sized city like Santiago, where, as is discussed before, daily human flows repre- sent an essential part in the socioeconomic basis of the city. Source: Concello de Santiago. 500m SantiagoSantiago, Cethedral the Old Town FIELD SURVEY 2012【スペイン全図】 7 バスクバスターミナルビスタ・アレグレガリシア公園 Field survey 2012 カタルーニャルガトルポ）▶ Four different perceptions of Santi- 道マドリード

街 ago フォンティニャスwere distinguished among people occu- ゴ地区ル pied in: a) municipal government; b) retailing; （通りサドロ c) hotels and restaurants management; and カルメ・デ・ン・ペアンダルシアアバイショ地区歴史地区カナリアス諸島 d) local inhabitants. From a) through200km c), some people are residents of Santiago and⾃治州界 others

アラメダ are non-residents. 【ガリシア⾃治州】

サンティアゴ・デ・ ▶ The interviews, each 1-2 hoursア・コルニャ long, コンポステラ⼤学 were多⽬的ホール focused on the Old Town. This ex- ビダ・キャンパスフォンテス・ド・サルサンティアゴ・デ tremely dense urban fabric with・コンポステラ numerous 拡張地区ルゴ symbolic sites, developed historically as the crossroads of the pilgrimage routes. ビゴオウレンセ⽂化都市鉄道駅

Source: Elaboration based on data provided 50km （パドロン街道）県界ロサリア・デ・カストロ通り by the Concello de Santiago. A. Ayuntamiento FIELD SURVEY 2012 8 Área del Plan Especial de la Ciudad Histórica Municipal Government-1 camino Officers of the Municipal Office for Historic calle ▶ City and Rehabilitation recognize an extended camino territory for Santiago Old Town: the “almond” calle (in reference to the ancient walled area) and nearby

Alameda area extending along the caminos. For them, the Old Town, especially the Cathedral, is something worth contemplating from a distance. ▶ The Old Town’s paths are represented as stone-paved streets, which are an important part of the historic built environment. On the fringe of this area, traditional stone hous- es encounter in a surprising manner the idyl- lic Galician green field. TheCathedral Cathedral seen seen from from La AlamedaLa Alameda Casa do Cabildo FIELD SURVEY 2012 9 Municipal Government-2 ▶ The conception of this “extended” Old Town dates back to a government ordinance enacted in 1964. Thereafter, Santiago Old Town has been represented in the urban planning as a whole set of monumental sites,

Source: Consorcio de Santiago. a Historic-Artistic Ensemble. Traditional techniques ▶ From this viewpoint, what gives the Old Town its raison d’être is the authenticity at- tributed to the historic built environment. However, for Santiago Consortium, a public entity for preservation projects, it is more important to assist in the city’s evolution with the application of traditional techniques, rather than to define the final form of the city. Source: Consorcio de Santiago. B. Comerciantes FIELD SURVEY 2012 10

Mercado Retailing-1 ▶ For the Association of Merchants, Entre- preneurs and Professionals-Open Commer- Rúa do Vilar Rúa Nova cial Centre “Compostela Monumental”, the Old Town is synonym of the walled area, Adoquines／ pas eo because this represents a compact and dense field for the commercial activi- Rúa do Vilar ties linked to everyday life. ▶ The stone-paved streets provide an ideal stage setting for sophisticated shops and a free space as well for people walking and en- joying events. The neighbourhood along Rúa do Vilar and Rúa Nova are the honour for the Old Town’s commercial tradition. .

1 ESPONSOR OFICIAL DA S.D.COMPOSTELA DEFÚTBOL Xestión Comercial(Dinamización-Integraciónnacidade) Source: Compostela Munumental. "Compostela Monumental" Rúa Nova sion inanincreasing numberof services sented asthe pre- often Townis Old strategy, the a such In competitiveness ofsmallretailingbusiness. outactionstoincreasethe has beencarrying CM the rival, main their are highways near ▶ Retailing-2 FIELD SURVEY2012 use ofterraces. great concentration of of concentration great ▶ low-density developments. against worldwide discussed alternative an shops There is, however, another risk factor: the factor: risk however,another is, There Since the shoppingcentres developed orsporadic CCA . This situation has itsclear expres CM

nucleus ofacompactcity conflicts tourist-oriented with bars over the over bars with souvenir 11 - , 12 Aeropuerto C. Hostelería FIELD SURVEY 2012 International camino Cidade da Cultura Hotels and restaurants-1

Mercado ▶ Hotels and restaurants are the sector that camino makes the most intensive use of the Old camino Town. Also, they benefits the most from the

Santiago y daily inflows to Santiago, especially of na- Rúa do su comarca Franco tional and international tourists. ▶ The streets converging at the Cathe- Rúa do Franco dral are just “the last corner” before arrival to the destination. For the Association of En- trepreneurs in Hotels and Restaurants Busi- ness, the Old Town is the great crossroads square, and Rúa do Franco its most representative and busy street. Yet their open- ness to an extensive field connected by the pilgrimage roads is critically important. Santiago, past and future FIELD SURVEY 2012 13 Hotels and restaurants-2 ▶ The great concentration of bars and restaurants in the Old Town sometimes origi- nates frictions with the people living in the same area, for whom the intrusion of tourists only brings “noise”, distorting their everyday

Source: CompH!ostelaría, no. 151 (2011). life. As is already discussed, there can be fric- Cidade da Cultura tions even with the retailing sector. ▶ Among the interviewees, the association of hotels and restaurants was actually the only one in referring to the polemic project of the Cidade da Cultura (City of Culture). Here, the twin tower designed by John Hejduk is represented as the future for Santiago, in con- trast with the Cathedral’s twin towers. D. Vecinos FIELD SURVEY 2012 14

Mercado barrio barrio Residents ▶ In the case of the local residents living in- calle side the Old Town, their spacial perception barrio barrio hardly surpasses the inmediate neghbour- hood for daily use. For the Residents As- calle sociation “Compostela Vella”, it takes a barrio lot of efforts to bring small neighbourhoods "Compostela Vella" toghther under a common objective. ▶ The Old Town’s streets are perceived sim- ply as daily paths, located just a few steps from their private entrance. ▶ The local popular expression “3M” (market, missa and medical service) expresses somewhat ironically the residents’ typical profile: elderly women and widows. Mercado de Abastos FIELD SURVEY 2012 15 Opposite perceptions ▶ The interviews we have just overlooked permit us to understand Santiago Old Town as a twofold space. The irresistible power of the places is, to a greater extent, what at- tracts different kinds of flows, which in turn activate those same places. To be cooked in situ ▶ In such a dynamic process, people get to have contrasting and even opposite perceptions around a same space. A very illus- trative example is the Mercado de Abastos (Food Market). In this case, what is a popular market visited by local people throughout life can also be utilized as a strategic site for tourism promotion. With Rubén FIELD SURVEY 2013/2014 16 Field survey 2013/2014 ▶ In 2013/2014, the field survey was contin- ued with the participation of APU students from Geography Seminar (in total 10 participants). ▶ Along the two occasions, we interviewed another collectivity with high representative- ness among the “human inflows” to Santiago: With Manuel university students and professors. ▶ Each interview was complemented by an itinerary across the Old Town, finalizing in a favourite place for the collaborator. ▶ The following is the summary of the interviews to USC students. Three of them study Geography, one specialises in journalism and another in information science. San Domingos de Bonaval Park FIELD SURVEY 2013/2014 17 ▶ Abandoned the daily trip by car two years ago. Since then living in Santiago. ▶ Pr. Galicia (where Zara is located) is perceived as the centre of Santiago. Yet, the best place for shopping is A Coruña. ▶ Santiago is good to study, to work and to live. The university is near the centre (In A Coruña, no; in Lugo, not so close). Can meet Profile of the Collaborator-1 friends and go everywhere walking. Origin: Frades (30km northeast). ▶ The weak points are the rain and the Course: degree in Geography traffic. The dependence on car can give Campus: inside the Old Town place to an American way of life. Living in Santiago: 2 years, near Pr. Galicia, 10 ▶ In San Domingos de Bonaval Park, can get minutes walk to the Faculty. a different perspective of the Cathedral. It’s a Favourite place: San Domingos de Bonaval good place for the youth. Park Hiding urban garden FIELD SURVEY 2013/2014 18 ▶ Came to Santiago to study geography. Be- fore that, visit to Santiago was limited to the Apostle Festival. ▶ Enjoys night life in pubs inside the Old Town. The Zona Nueva (new zone) is ugly, there is nothing to do, except for shopping. ▶ Santiago is good just for three groups: students, tourists and government employ- Profile of the Collaborator-2 ees. Not attractive for other people. It’s com- Origin: Vigo. pact and practical, but too small; hard Course: degree in Geography to find something new; the beach is far away; Campus: inside the Old Town very rainy... Living in Santiago: 5 years, near Pr. Galicia, 10 ▶ Showed us a hiding urban garden known minutes’ walk to the Faculty. only among some local people, just behind Favourite place: “balcony” behind the City the City Hall, very close to the tourist area. Hall, viewing a hiding urban garden. Praza da Quintana FIELD SURVEY 2013/2014 19 ▶ Came to Santiago to study journalism. Be- fore that, several visits for school excursion. Her family goes shopping to Marineda City (a huge shopping centre near A Coruña). ▶ 40 minutes’ walk to the Campus. Cheap apartments are available there, but isolated. Enjoys night life in the Old Town. The Zona Nueva doesn’t have atmosphere. Jogging to Profile of the Collaborator-3 Eugenio Granell Park or La Alameda. Origin: Carballo (west of A Coruña). ▶ Santiago is compact and good for stu- Course: Journalism dents, despite the rain. Yet, would like to Campus: Compus Norte live in a coastal and open town like Vigo. Living in Santiago: 3 years, near train station, ▶ Showed us Pr. da Quintana, as a popu- 40 minutes’ walk / bus to the Faculty. lar square for local people, contrary to the Favourite place: Praza da Quintana official and touristic Obradoiro. San Martiño Pinario Monastery FIELD SURVEY 2013/2014 20 ▶ Changed from Vigo to Santiago to study applied geography. Before that, several visits for the Apostle Festival or concerts. ▶ Jogging to La Alameda, a rich in nature and multipurpose park for everyone, from children to elderly people. ▶ Santiago is a good and practical town. Has everything near you: cinema, shop- Profile of the Collaborator-4 ping, leisure, nature... The only weak points Origin: Tui. are the rain and absence of the sea. Although Course: degree in Geography living in bigger cities, the space you really use Campus: inside the Old Town would be similar in extension. Living in Santiago: 3 years?, near Pr. Roxa, 15 ▶ Showes us Pr. da Inmaculada, cross- minutes’ walk to the Faculty. roads of pilgrims, and the neoclassic monas- Favourite place: Pr. da Inmaculada and San tery. For her, Rúa do Franco is not so bad. Martiño Pinario Monastery. La Alameda FIELD SURVEY 2013/2014 21 ▶ Moved to Santiago to study, but used to come here for shopping or cinema. ▶ Obradoiro and Rúa do Franco are lively places with people from various origins. Goes to pubs of the Old Town, like Casa das Crechas, to enjoy Galician music. ▶ Santiago is good. It’s compact and everything is close. Tourism brings people of the Profile of the Collaborator-5 world. The only negative aspect is the rain. Origin: Frades (30km northeast). Would like to live in Santiago, and if not, in a Course: Information Science completely different cultural context, like USA, Campus: Campus Vida Suisse or Japan. Living in Santiago: 2 years, near Pr. Galicia, 20 ▶ Showed us La Alameda, visiting all its minutes’ walk to the Faculty. details. It’s the synthesis of Galician cul- Favourite place: La Alameda ture: nature, history, life, religion, science... Pilgrims' mass CONCLUDING REMARKS 22 Disagreements... ▶ The student collaborators coincided in some points and disagreed in others. The main disagreement was in their apprecia- tion for the reduced phisical dimention of Santiago: Compact can be a positive factor for some, but rather negative for others. International students, USC ▶ Here, we should remember that what gives more value to Santiago than its phisical dimention does are the human flows: students, tourists or pilgrims... Without these inflows, Santiago would be little more than a common medium-sized provincial town, without the international projection which permits the city to hold a sence of pride. City Hall CONCLUDING REMARKS 23 Custodians of place... ▶ On the other hand, most collaborators did not mention directly the Old Town as a se- quence of meaningful places. However, what brings about the intensive daily flows to San- tiago are, in fact, the institutions which are acting as custodians of the places, Colexio de Fonseca, USC in both tangible and intangible manner. ▶ Municipal and Autonomous governments are present there; in USC nearly 30 thousands of students from inside and outside of Spain are studying; and the Cathedral as core of the Historic-Artistic Ensemble is what appeals to most of the tourists, and of course pilgrims. Porta Faxeira CONCLUDING REMARKS 24 Again, flows and places ▶ Moreover, the "atmosphere" surround- ing the night pubs mentioned by various students is an essential component of the urban fabric, of the space of places storing experience and collective memory. ▶ So, we can say that the flows give San- Cathedral from Pr. da Quintana tiago a great internal and external relevance, much more than expected by its physical dimension. And that the continuity of those flows are guaranteed by the vigour of the places. Santiago at different scales CONCLUDING REMARKS 25 The cocept of compact ▶ Considering again the physical dimension, compact is a relative concept. When we look at the "almond" and its appendix along pilgrimage routes, Santiago is compact. How- ever, its metropolitan area is a rather dis-

Source: Concello de Santiago. persed territory with small settlements. ▶ When some of the collaborators say that Santiago is good, they refer to the historic urban core. And the same territorial setting is presumed, when the other students say that Santiago is too small. We think that both of these perceptions are very conditioned by the students’ way of life, that is, walking around the town without using a car. Source: Google Earth.

マイル 3 km 6 Arco de Mazarelos CONCLUDING REMARKS 26 Fruitful relationship ▶ If those who stress the "smallness" as a negative factor should have a easy mobil- ity, they could have quite a different perception of Santiago. And eventually they could recognize for Santiago a positive value as a city where the space of flows have a dy- Porta do Camiño namic and fruitful relationship with the space of places. ▶ It is important, however, to point out that this synthetical relationship can be kept as is, as long as Santiago is compact in its urban core, that is, the "almond" and its prolongation along the pilgrimage routes. La Alameda CONCLUDING REMARKS 27 Interacting city and nature ▶ In case Santiago were converted to a large urban agglomeration, it would lose its enor- mous value as a compact and practical city, a value recognized by many collaborators. ▶ Also, we should remember that all the students mentioned nature as a important San Domingos de Bonaval Park value for the quality of life in Santiago. And what is valuable in that nature is its unique urban solution, filling "underarms" of the con- necting roads and making an interesting in- teraction with the compact built environment. ▶ Inheriting this dynamic socio-spacial setting is critical to manage the future evolution of Santiago. Thank You for Your Attention

Special thanks to the local collaborators: María Abelleira Méndez (Presidenta de la Asociación de Veciños Compostela Vella); Aser Álvarez (Director de Comunicación e Mercadotecnia de Hostelería Compostelana. Asociación Hostelería Compostela); Lourdes Pérez Castro (Directora Técnica da Oficina Técnica. Consorcio de Santiago); Jesús Curros Neira (Jefe de Servicio de la Oficina de la Ciudad Histórica. Concello de Santiago); Dolores Cerqueiro Landín (ibid. Jefa de Sección de Arqueología); José Ángel Blanco (Xerente. Compostela Monumental Centro Comercial Abierto); Marta Rey Boquete (Xerente. Mercado de Abastos de Santiago. Sociedade Cooperativa Galega); Yolanda Ferro (Turismo de Santiago de Compostela - Información e Comunicación Local, SA Santiago Turismo. Departamento de Productos y Comunicación); Suevia Sobral Santiago (profesora de chino y japonés); Valerià Paül Carril (profesor de geografía, USC); Rubén Camilo Lois González (profesor de geografía, USC); José Maestro (funcionario de la Xunta de Galicia); Manuel Ramiro López Carro (estudiante, USC); Arturo Pérez González (estudiante, USC); Eva Tuñas López (estudiante, USC); Laura González Ramírez (estudiante, USC); Marcos Carro Fernández (estudiante, USC).

Participants in the field survey from the Seminar Takenaka of Geography (APU): Kosaku Morita; Wakana Mizuno; Saki Maeda; Hazuki Komatsu; Lisa Koido; Rui Matsumoto; Yuka Yokoyama; Eri Morita, Kana Mizukami.