Opinion: Taukbashqe Park: When Good Intentions Hit a Pile of Dirt

June 7 - 20, 2013 Issue No. 113 www.prishtinainsight.com Price € 1 NEWS Swift Bear Rescue Follows Killings > page 3 INVESTIGATION Charities Escape Scrutiny in > page 4 FEATURE Jolie Drama Stirs Breast Cancer Debate in Kosovo > page 6 NEIGHBORHOOD Vetevendosje Polishes Image on First US Tour New Skopje Mayor Leaders take message to Albanian diaspora, American officials. page 11 Wants Referendum on Statues Film Company Faces Questions After an audit detected financial irregularities in the production of the landmark film ‘Kukumi,’ the ex-head of Kosovo Film denies wrongdoing. > page 7 But now police and prosecutors of interest. not respond to Prishtina Insight’s By Donjeta Demolli and Visar Duriqi are probing Kosovo Film for finan- Gani Mehmetaj, who headed questions, either. INSIDE PRISHTINA cial irregularities related to the pro- Kosovo Film from 2003 to until his The Ministry of Culture also Drinking in the duction of the film. suspension 2012, told Prishtina would not say what specifically n the 2004 film “Kukumi,” after The investigation began in April Insight recently that the claims are prompted it to turn over the audit to Good Life at the UN liberates three patients after police received an internal “untrue”. police. Ifrom a psychiatric hospital audit from the Ministry of Culture, He is meanwhile suing the The most significant issue raised Bon Vivant shortly after the war in Kosovo, which oversees Kosovo Film. Ministry’s Permanent Secretary, in the audit concerns the 300,000 two of the inmates end up return- The report says that the 482,000 Veton Firzi, alleging that he was euro from Jadran Film that could > page 22 ing to it voluntarily. euro provided by the ministry was suspended illegally. not be accounted for in the film Produced by the state-funded accounted for properly. The Ministry said it that it sus- budget. Kosovo Film company, the dark com- But questions the 300,000 euro pended Mehmetaj for abusing his “There is no separate bank edy was first major film to emerge worth of investment by the film’s position, including not respecting account for the movie. Neither the from Kosovo following the war. Croatian partner, which provided working hours. ministry nor Kosovo Film can say Kosovo’s only English-language While the film received mixed equipment for the filming. Kosovo Police confirmed that it exactly how much ‘Kukumi’ cost,” newspaper is available: reviews, it went on to win awards at The March audit covers 2002 to was investigating Kosovo Film but the report noted. the Venice and Sarajevo film festi- 2012 and details other financial declined to discuss its investiga- Delivered to vals. irregularities and possible conflicts tion. The assigned prosecutor did continues page 2 Your Door

Romania’s Hungarians Yearn The Hague Tribunal, A Court From Newsstands for Region of Their Own Under Fire across Kosovo

Romanians eat tripe soup, while Lawyers, victims and historians agree Sent To Hungarians eat goulash. For me, this is the that many crimes committed during the Your Inbox only difference between us,” says Catalin Balkan wars would not have been seriously Manolescu, a 36-year-old construction engi- prosecuted had it not been for the estab- neer in Bucharest. lishment of the International Criminal From “I don’t fully understand their demand Tribunal for the Former 20 our partners for more rights. We Romanians and years ago this week. neighborhood Hungarians are citizens of... page 9 At the same time... page 8 see page 16 for more info

is supported by: 2 June 7 - 20, 2013 news Film Company Faces Questions

from page 1 negatively affect his performance as a director. Family members Jadran Film, a Croatian compa- reached by phone also said Qosja ny, handled the technical side of would not speak for the same rea- the production, providing equip- sons. ment and technicians. Prishtina Insight has contacted Conflicts of interest: Jadran Film, but the company did not respond to any questions about The Ministry of Culture’s audi- the film. tor also identified several “Kukumi” was shot over 45 days instances of potential violations of in 2004, with Jadran Film’s equip- the Law on Preventing Conflict of ment and technicians. Interest in connection with the “When we signed the contract film. with Jadran Film, which provided For example, Kosova Film hired technicians, we specified it like Nyrtene Demiri, Mehmetaj’s wife, this: ‘We will take the means from as an Albanian-English translator the ministry and they [Jadran] and presenter at national and will provide the technology, and it international festivals, according will be a joint movie,” Mehmetaj to the audit, for which she received recalled. around 1,000 euro. Mehmetaj says they did not need Mehmetaj has denied conflict of to account for Jadran Film’s con- interest, saying he “didn’t hire her. tribution because it was not in the The financial director did”. form of direct financial support. He also said he did not see a con- flict of interest in the hire of his nephew as manager of Kosovo “There is no separate bank Film. “The commission chose him account for the movie. through an open call for applica- tions,” said Mehmetaj who does Neither the ministry nor not appear to have been a member Kosovo Film can say exactly of the selecting commission. how much ‘Kukumi’ cost.” Ministry criticized: - Internal audit, The audit also criticized The Ministry of Culture Ministry of Culture for its han- dling of Kosovo Film, noting that The film director, Isa Qosja, was the ministry “did not ask for full the acting director of Kosovo Film and timely accountability for the in 2002, when preparations were money given”. being made for the production of The former director of the min- the film, according to the audit. istry’s performing arts division, Qosja is currently directing which oversees Kosovo Films, An audit is raising questions about budget of the 2004 film 'Kukumi.' another movie for Kosovo Film, Kamuran Goranci, told Prishtina “Three Windows and a Hanging,” Insight that he uncovered prob- istry gave more money to Kosovo Sali Morina, permanent secre- it.” Skender Hyseni, Culture which has received 160,000 euro in lems with Kosovo Film’s account film. tary of the Ministry from 2008 to Minister from 2006 to 2008, also government funding. of its spending. Two former culture ministers, 2010, said he never received any said he never heard of problems Prishtina Insight attempted to “It didn’t respect the reporting Astrit Haraqija and Valton Beqiri, complaints about Kosovo Film connected to Kosovo Film or to visit him on location in Mrasor, rules concerning how the funding are currently on trial on charges during his tenure. “Kukumi.” Klina municipality, to discuss the given was spent,” said Goranci, of abusing their positions by sign- Behxhet Brajshori, the Culture “During this short period of alleged financial irregularities who now heads the Department of ing illegal contracts with two film Minister when Kukumi began time my subordinates never connected with “Kukumi.” Culture. production companies, Concordia filming, also said he never heard of informed me of any eventual But Qosja’s assistants would not He said he alerted officials and Pictures and Morina Films, dam- problems connected with the film. irregularities concerning Kosovo allow access to the director, saying auditors about the issues in 2004. aging Kosovo’s budget by 390,000 His successor, Astrit Haraqija, Film, or the ‘Kukumi’ project,” he discussing such allegations could But, during that period, the min- euro. said he “had nothing to do with said. Five Acquitted in BIRN Kosovo Case mer owner of Infopress, Rexhep Lushtaku was mayor at the time. a democratic society like Kosovo Xharra said of the verdict that Hoti, the former editor-in-chief, The court on Wednesday ruled to do everything it can to protect she “never thought it would be Avni Azemi, and two former jour- the articles did not pose a threat to the precious right of freedom of easy but we won’t give up”, By Edona Peci nalists, Rizah Hajdari and Qani Xharra even if they damaged “her the press and punish those who adding: “I encourage you [in the Mehmeti. honour and reputation”. undermine it,” EULEX prosecutor media] not to give in, to have a bet- In 12 articles published by “We did not find that the con- Maria Bamieh said. ter media environment compared Infopress, Xharra was called a tent of the articles were a coded “The threats and the defama- to what there is now.” court has acquitted five “Serbian spy”, a “professional threat," Judge Vladimir Micula tion made against her had a clear Xharra has already filed a libel defendants accused of stag- bomb”, an “embassy slut” and sub- said. goal. The accused wanted to scare case, seeking compensation from Aing a hate campaign in the jected to other insults, the indict- Referring to threatening emails Jeta Xharra and her team," she the former defendants. media against BIRN director Jeta ment said. that Xharra and the BIRN office in added. Arianit Koci, lawyer for Xharra. It said a campaign against Prishtina received after the pro- "They wanted to humiliate her Lushtaku, described the verdict as A mixed panel of Kosovo and Xharra was launched after Radio gramme was aired, the EULEX and... get a critical and credible “just and legal”. EULEX judges found five defen- Television Kosovo, RTK, aired an judge said that “no link was found journalist off the table who had “It was a legal and professional dants not guilty of threatening edition of BIRN’s TV programme, between the articles and those dared to criticize the political battle," he said. "Our arguments Xharra and violating her rights in "Jeta ne Kosove" ("Life in acts”. achievements of Mr Lushtaku, a were stronger and it was proven May and June 2009. Kosovo",) dealing with alleged The prosecution said it was very powerful politician and that Sami Lushtaku did not They were the former mayor of mismanagement in unhappy with the verdict and social figure indeed in Kosovo,” threaten Jeta Xharra.” Skenderaj, Sami Lushtaku, the for- Skenderaj/Srbica where would appeal. “It is necessary for she continued The trial started in March.

Editor-in-Chief: Parim Olluri, Jeton Musliu and Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” Artan Mustafa Donjeta Demolli. Arben Grajqevci Publisher: BIRN • Balkan Investigative Reporting [email protected] Printing: Lindi Printing Center Y Network • Mensa e Studenteve, first floor • 10000, Editorial Team: Marketing, Sales & M Prishtina • Kosovo • Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 Jeta Xharra, Marcus Tanner, Distribution: Copyright © BIRN C Nate Tabak, Petrit Collaku, [email protected] K news June 7 - 20, 2013 3 Swift Bear Rescue Follows Killings Environment Ministry demands vigorous prosecution after the killings of two bears that were about to start new lives at a refuge. May. But the suspects were fined only 150 to 200 euro each and then By Petrit Collaku released, pending prosecution. The Ministry, which had been spearheading the planned reloca- tion of the bears to a refuge outside ight bears living in captivity Prishtina, condemned the killing were hastily relocated last and what it called an unacceptably Eweek following the killings light punishment for the accused of two bears who were set to start perpetrators. new lives at a refuge near Lake “We will follow all the possible Badovac. legal ways and seek the maximum “This horrendous act forced us punishment allowed by law against to move lightning fast, as we now these people,” Minister Dardan feared for the lives of the remain- Gashi said. ing eight ‘restaurant bears,’ ” Heli “We consider this to be a cruel Dungler, founder of the Four Paws murder and destruction of the NGO, which operates the refuge, national property of Kosovo,” Gashi said in a written statement. added. Thirteen bears, which had been The ministry has filed a com- living in cages at restaurants and plaint with the Prishtina Appellate small zoos throughout Kosovo, now Court after a judge in Mitrovica live at the refuge. downgraded the charges from Kosovo’s Ministry of the One of the bears rescued by Four Paws. felonies to basic crimes. Environment is calling on the Police uncovered the killings bring 15 bears living in cages at and small children, so we sold said the buyer told him the bears authorities to aggressively prose- after a citizen reported finding two restaurants and small zoos through- them,” said Osmani who would not would go to another restaurant, in cute the suspected killers of two dead bears in a landfill on out Kosovo to the open-air refuge. reveal how much he and his brother Prishtina. brown bears that were about to be Mitrovica’s outskirts. Mirdi Osmani, who owns the were paid. Gezime Hasani, spokeswoman of relocated to the refuge. The two bears had been kept as an Krapi restaurant with his brother, The Ministry and the NGO, he the Ministry of the Environment, Police said the bears were killed attraction at the Krapi restaurant in said they were aware of the plans of said, should have gotten the bears said the ministry had been in touch for their gallbladders, which can Mitrovica. the Ministry and Four Paws to take sooner. with Osmani’s brother, Bahri, and fetch high prices in China, Japan They were to be relocated to a the bears. “I contacted the people (at Four had told him to improve the bears’ and elsewhere in Asia. new refuge operated by the Four But Osmani told Prishtina Insight Paws) but they told me they still did- living conditions in the meantime. Four suspects, one from Kosovo Paws organisation near Lake that he and his brother sold the n’t have a place ready… so I couldn’t “We gave Osmani 30 days to and three from Albania, were Badovac. bears to an animal trader because wait any longer,” Osmani said. improve conditions for the bears. arrested in connected with the The Ministry of Environment the animals had become dangerous. He maintained that he did not He didn’t do this and we planned to killing of the year-old cubs in late and Four Paws initially planned to “They were a risk to the workers know the bears would be killed. He confiscate them,” Hasani said. marketing

Call us: +377 (0) 44 11 11 11 • +381 (0) 38 22 22 80 4 June 7 - 20, 2013 investigation Charities Escape Scrutiny in Kosovo Without no laws or regulators monitoring their activities or obliging them to disclose their finances, fundraisers are largely left to their own devices.

“We have helped improve the call itself a public beneficiary. Ministry of Health to propose leg- thoroughfare. From morning until lives of two disabled children in islation addressing the issue of night, at least one NGO soliciting the home and have helped 15 other Not much oversight: charities, Kadrijaj added. donations is there. By Visar Duriqi families with the aid of 45 euro a Faton Osmani, deputy head of month,” he added. Little hard information exists Arrested for fraud: Together We Can Change the Bregaj said all the funds they on charitable organisations in World - Kosovo, said police once hey are a frequent sight on collect go to the designated benefi- Kosovo - even on how many there In 2010, Kosovo Police arrested removed them from the street, but Prishtina’s Mother Teresa ciaries. The NGO, he explained, are. the managers of We Are Also otherwise they operate without TBoulevard - charities in was run with the help of 135 volun- This is because the government Kosovo, a charity in Ferizaj, on makeshift booths displaying pho- official interference. teers and 27 full-time staffers does not keep track of them, and suspicion of fraud in connection tos of children and sometimes The Ministry of Health, which whose wages are paid by business- charities do not fall under the with soliciting donations to pay to playing sappy music, appealing to runs a programme to send es. authority of a specific government send children abroad for medical the emotions of passers-by. Kosovars abroad for medical treat- But when asked to provide evi- entity. treatment. Young people use megaphones ment, stresses that it has no con- dence of how Together We Can By contrast, the UK has two ded- Police and prosecutors at the to say: “He only needs 10 cents to nection to charities asking for Change the World - Kosovo spends icated charity regulators, one for time alleged that the managers stay alive”, or, “Those of you with money on the street. its money, Bregaj refused to do so England and Wales, the Charity took more than 100,000 euro. children surely understand the “The Ministry has nothing to do on the grounds that “our work reg- Commission, and another for The current status of the case is pain of having a sick child.” with individuals, groups or NGOs ulations forbid distributing finan- Scotland, the Office of the Scottish not clear. Prishtina Insight could These charities say they are that use the street to seek funds for cial information”. Charity Regulator. not reach anyone at the NGO’s offi- raising money to send children charity,” Faik Hoti, the In fact, NGOs in Kosovo have no Both maintain websites with cially listed telephone numbers. abroad for medical treatment legal obligation to publicise their extensive information on charities Police would not say if they spokesman, confirmed. among other good causes. finances, so donors have no way of and how they spend their money. have investigated other charities Hoti said the ministry does has One that frequently sets up shop checking how their money is being No one oversees charities in in connection with fraud. official agreements with several on Mother Teresa, Together We spent. Kosovo, nor are there plans to Organisations soliciting money NGOs, including the Rotary Club, Can Change the World - Kosovo, According to the 2009 Law on the change that. “It’s not clear who on Mother Teresa Boulevard do so Caritas and Mother Teresa. told Prishtina Insight that it has Freedom of Association in Non- would oversee those who collect without permission of Prishtina “Usually, these NGOs assist the raised around 145,000 euro since it Government Organisations, NGOs funds for charity and by whom municipality, Asdren Osaj, the ministry with different pro- was established in 2011. only have to make such disclo- they would be kept accountable,” municipal spokesman, said. grammes and help in the medical “We have sent seven children sures if they designate themselves Time Kadrijaj, deputy head of par- “Inspectors regularly remove treatment of patients, not neces- abroad for treatment, although “Public Beneficiaries.” liament’s commission for social them from there,” he added. sarily by asking for funds but by one died during an operation,” These are exempt from paying welfare, said. But the inspections and raids do finding other ways for activities to Engjell Bregaj, head of the NGO, taxes altogether, but Together We It was up to the Ministry of not deter fundraisers from return- receive help for as many patients said. Can Change the World does not Labour and Social Welfare and the ing to Kosovo’s main pedestrian as possible,” Hoti said. Kosovo May Sue US Firm Over Trepca Deal

By Bardh Shkreli

osovo said it will sue com- panies that establish con- Ktracts with the Trepca industrial complex after the US firm New Generation Power did so without due consultation. Any confirmed transactions related to the Trepca complex that are not in line with Kosovo laws will be taken to court, Mimoza Kusari-Lila, Kosovo's Deputy Prime Minister, said. Her comment came less than a week after the Serbian govern- ment agreed a deal with the American company New Generation Power, NGP, on invest- ments in Trepca in May. Kusari-Lila explained that Trepca is administered based on the Law for the re-organization of specific companies and their assets by the Privatization Agency of Kosovo. “Under this law, every kind of sale, disposal, conveyance, transfer or lease of any asset of the compa- ny in general or particular…has to have the opinion of the special The Serbian government still insists it has a claim to the Trepca mining complex. (Photo/Fitim Selimi) chamber of the Kosovo Supreme Court,” she told Prishtina Insight. Photographs published after the “While the US Embassy in Yll Kaloshi, from the contacted the US State Department NGP's president, Chirinjeev deal was reached last week drew a Prishtina has not engaged with Privatization Agency of Kosovo, before signing the document,” Kathuria, and the Serbian harsh reaction from Prishtina, New Generation Power, State described the contract that Kathuria told the news agency. President, Tomislav Nikolic, sealed which asked the US embassy in Department officials in reached with NGP as “invalid” and Last November, New Generation a several-million-euro contract on Kosovo for explanations. Washington advised New “unenforceable in practice”. Power signed a contract for corpo- investments and technical corpo- The US embassy said it has Generation Power that Kosovo is a However, the company’s head ration with the Bosnian Serb enti- ration in the enterprise. advised “any US company pursu- sovereign country and that the told Bloomberg that he had noti- ty, Republika Srpska, which fore- Y The conglomerate of 40 mines ing a business transaction in Government of Serbia has no fied American authorities about saw the establishment of several M and factories is located mostly in Kosovo’s territory to discuss it jurisdiction over the Trepca mine the contract. hydropower plants on the Drina C Kosovo but also in other parts of directly with the Government of complex,” the embassy said in a “We are aware the issue on prop- river. The project is estimated to K Serbia and Montenegro. Kosovo. press release. erty has to be resolved… NGP has be worth 1.3 billion euro. feature June 7 - 20, 2013 5 Jolie Drama Stirs Breast Cancer Debate in Kosovo Hollywood star’s revelations about her battle with breast cancer stir echoes in Kosovo, where detection rates remain low and treatment is hard to come by

By Liridona Hyseni

“My sisters and other hen Angelina Jolie women persuaded me to go revealed this month that for a check-up although I Wshe had undergone a pre- ventative double mastectomy, peo- didn’t have any signs or ple around the world praised the actress’s courage for taking such a symptoms of cancer. radical step and sharing her story. Thanks to them, I survived.” As Jolie wrote in a May 14 opin- ion piece in The New York Times, - Teuta Sahatqija, she decided to have both her Kosovo MP breasts removed because a genetic test had revealed that she had an 85-per-cent chance of developing breast cancer. Since the operation, her chances have dropped to less than 5 per cent. Jolie’s revelation has sparked a global discussion about breast can- cer prevention and early detection. Doctors in the US report that more patients are asking for genetic testing in the wake of Jolie’s piece. In Kosovo, where the health sys- tem struggles to deliver even the most basic needs, public discus- said. tary Women’s Caucus, which is sion of breast cancer is at a far Breast cancer accounted for raising money for a portable mam- Costly treatments: more basic level. Public health about 1,100 of the 3,000, or 35 per mography machine. authorities do not have exact fig- cent, of the cancer patients treated This would make it easier for Even with improved screening, ures on breast cancer cases and at the University Clinical Centre women to get breast cancer screen- leading to faster detection, women early detection remains spotty at in Prishtina, Kosovo’s main public ings and catch the disease earlier. in Kosovo will still face a financial best. hospital, Mejreme Krasniqi- So far, the Women’s Caucus has burden when it comes to treat- When Rafete Haziri, from Maloku, an oncologist at the cen- raised 200,000 euro for the device, ment. “The first form of protection Prishtina, was diagnosed in 2007, tre, said. which it is estimated will cost For instance, patients are collec- her breast cancer had already She estimates that the hospital 250,000 to 300,000 euro. tively expected to find 4 of the 9 is self-examination, when reached Stage 2. Two months had sees 200 to 300 new breast cancer Sahatqija hopes at least 250,000 million euro that the University every woman, while cleaning passed since Haziri had found patients a year. By comparison, euro will be raised sometime this Clinical Centre spends on her breast, can notice the lumps in one of her breasts. breast cancer accounts for 28 per autumn and that the machine can chemotherapy each year, Dr First, she hesitated to see a doc- cent of all cancer cases in Europe be purchased before winter via a Krasniqi-Maloku says. The slightest change herself.” tor. It then took weeks to get a according to World Health tender. Ministry of Health funds the rest. - Mejreme Krasniqi- proper diagnosis. “It was the hard- Organisation data. There is no Contributions have already Nafije Latifi, a breast cancer est news. I was alone in the clinic data on the mortality rates in come in from the Norwegian, survivor, founded the Kosovar Maloku, oncologist when they told me. I cried the Kosovo for breast cancer cases. Dutch and French embassies, from Center Against Breast Cancer - whole way home,” she says. the Kosovo ministries of JETA/VITA, which has staged She had one breast removed Raising funds for portable European Integration and Local protests demanding better treat- shortly afterwards and underwent Governance, as well as from MPs, ment and prevention of breast a course of chemotherapy. “The machine: businesses and ordinary people, cancer in Kosovo. most difficult moment was when I Sahatqija says. Latifi says the public health sys- lost my hair. I was entirely bald, Teuta Sahatqija got her diagno- A memorandum of understand- tem is not doing an adequate job of like the palm of a hand,” Haziri sis in 2008, while her cancer was in ing is already in place with the addressing the disease. recalls. its earliest stages. Ministry of Health, which will “Everywhere in the world, can- But seven years later she The MP for the Democratic train technicians and maintain cer patients are treated for free,” believes she is free of cancer, League of Kosovo, LDK, was not the portable machine, which will she says. “But in Kosovo, the though she still has to go for check- aware of any health issues. “My supplement existing machines University Clinical Centre does ups every six months. “I am still sisters and other women persuad- housed at a number of public hos- not have enough drugs, so people alive, with no fear,” she says. ed me to go for a check-up pitals and clinics. have to go to private institutions to although I didn’t have any signs or Dr Krasniqi-Maloku, from the get them. Imprecise data: symptoms of cancer,” she says. University Clinical Centre, stress- “Very few families have 12,000 to “Thanks to them, I survived. es that women must take it upon 20,000 euro to spend on a sick rela- Kosovo health authorities do not As doctors caught the cancer themselves to catch breast cancer tive,” she adds. have precise figures on breast can- early, they succeeded in removing as early as possible. Hoti, the Ministry of Health cer cases because a national the cancerous cells. “The first form of protection is spokesman, says the ministry has health information system is not “I survived without having self-examination, when every included more than 50 cancer fully operational. expensive or difficult procedures woman, while cleaning her breast, drugs in its list of essential, free Based on incomplete data, the and without it taking an emotion- can notice the slightest change medicines. “The most difficult moment National Institute of Public ally heavy toll,” Sahatqija says. herself,” she says. “We included Herceptin, which was when I lost my hair. I Health recorded 2,311 new cases of “Now I see it as my obligation to Dr Krasniqi-Maloku says is a very expensive medicine that cancer generally in 2012, of which continue to help others so they can women over 40 should get mammo- the ministry has obtained to treat was entirely bald, like the 20 to 25 per cent were breast can- have an easier experience, just as I grams at least once every two breast cancer patients,” he says. palm of a hand.” cer, the spokesperson of the did.” years, while women over 25 should “It is given out to patients, as long Ministry of Health, Faik Hoti, Sahatqija leads the parliamen- get regular ultrasounds. as the ministry has it,” Hoti says. - Rafete Haziri Y M Contributions for the mobile mammography machine can be made to: ProCredit Bank Kosovo Account: 1110 102014 0601 59 C You Can Help K 6 June 7 - 20, 2013 news EU Deal Leaves North Kosovo in Limbo Brussels agreement has left Serbs in north Kosovo uncertain about what the future holds - and whether they should remain at all.

By Gordana Andric

here is not much traffic on the road from Prishtina to Tthe Serb-run north of the divided town of Mitrovica. Serbs and rarely trav- el the highway connecting the Serb-run north of Kosovo to the rest of the country. There are no houses or even traces of life next to the road and the area appears a no man’s land. From the empty road, a Serbian flag flapping on the hill above Mitrovica looks like a sign show- ing where north Mitrovica lies. The first people one meets are KFOR soldiers in a car parked by the road, surrounded with wire. Beyond the bend, life begins again. Little Serbian flags hanging on poles send a message that this is Serbian land. On a Saturday morning market day in Mitrovica, the town looks like any other town in Serbia. Serbs watch a protest from an apartment in north Mitrovica . People carry bags of groceries, pensioners catch rays of sun in flict in the late 1990s, northern Many locals share that view- integrated, and one day I need “Tomorrow they could walk the park, cafés are full and teenage Kosovo has been beyond the con- point, condemning the deal, surgery, the anaesthesiologist freely into the north and seek out girls stroll giggling down the trol of the Prishtina government, though most reluctantly accept could be an Albanian and that the judges who sentenced them to street. while Belgrade has continued to that the deal will be implemented, would be scary,” she continues. to prison,” he adds. The streets are crowded. But finance local security, judicial, regardless of their own wishes. Ivana notes that some Serbs For now, judges and prosecu- what catches the eye is the variety health and educational institu- Sitting in a small barracks next have started venturing into the tors work normally on their of car plates - and lack of them. tions. to the bridge that connects the southern part of Mitrovica - but timetable of scheduled trials for Some have Serbian plates, regis- But on April 19, Kosovo and Serb-run north and the Albanian distrust between Albanian and May and June. tered in Belgrade, others are regis- Serbia adopted a 15-point agree- south of Mitrovica, four men look Serbs remains high. On their worktables, beside tered in Mitrovica. A few have ment on normalising relations, like they already lost faith in the She, too, is convinced that the case files and documents, is a Kosovo plates. But around half the allowing both sides to advance idea that anyone will defend their Serbian government will imple- prominently displayed Serbian cars have no plates at all. their integration into the interests. ment the EU-led deal, come what flag. “If the flag goes, we would be “People don’t know whether to European Union. “Don’t ask us about the deal, we may. gone too,” the judge observes. register their cars in Kosovo or in The agreement mainly concerns know only what we saw in the “People in Serbia are bored of Milos, a 24-year-old waiter, says Serbia, as they don’t know which the future of the Serbian minority media,” one says. Kosovo. All they hear is that we many Serbs plan to leave Kosovo plates will be valid in a few in Kosovo. According to the deal, “If Belgrade wants to imple- are stopping them on their EU if the Kosovo government gains months’ time,,” a salesman in his four municipalities in the north ment it, the deal will be imple- path and how much money control of the north. forties in the town centre will form an Association of mented. Economically and finan- Belgrade is spending on Kosovo He will go, too. “I’ll probably go observes. “They don’t want to have Serbian Municipalities with broad cially we are completely depend- Serbs,” she says. to Belgrade,” he says. to register them twice.” powers under the auspices of the ent on Serbia, so if they cut the “So the Serbian government “Many people will leave government in Prishtina. funds, we have to obey,” he adds. will have the support it needs to because we won’t accept Locals in North Mitrovica, He is not the only one who refus- implement the deal. What they Prishtina’s authority, not just out “I don’t mind my children Leposavic, Zvecan and Zubin es to divulge his name. Most peo- don’t understand is that we have a of national pride but because life learning Albanian, it’s an Potok will then choose a leader- ple we interviewed were willing to life here,” she adds. “We do not for Serbs will not be easy, we are added richness, but I don’t ship and officials for the new asso- speak but refused to give their want to be a stone around some- all aware of that,” he says. ciation in elections. names. one’s neck, but to keep our way of Milica, a 42-year-old civil ser- want them learning history While local police and courts in “We don’t know what will hap- life.” vant, believes the Serbs will not only from Kosovo text- northern Kosovo will be obliged to pen and we are all concerned that Marko Jaksic, a lawyer from the leave Kosovo at once, but will apply Kosovo laws, the Serbian one day someone may hold a nearby municipality of Zvecan, mostly move to Serbia eventually. books,” community will choose its own grudge against those of us who has similar fears. “Those who can get the same - Ivana, police commanders, and the com- criticised the deal,” another says. He wonders what will happen to job and have some property in position of the police will general- “Many of us work for govern- the contributions that Serbs in other parts of Serbia will proba- Mitrovica healthcare worker ly reflect the ethnic mix on the ment institutions. Who knows northern Kosovo have paid to bly go first,” she says. ground. The draft also proposes who our bosses will be in a few Serbia for pensions and health “Those who cannot or do not more judges coming from the months?” he asks. insurance if the north is included want to adapt to the Kosovo sys- The dilemma about where to Serbian minority. Ivana, 35, a healthcare employ- in Kosovo’s health and pension tem will follow,” she adds. register cars is not the biggest Serbia will continue financing ee, says people in Mitrovica do not system. “It won’t be an exodus. But in question hanging in the air in northern Mitrovica. health and educational institu- fear renewed ethnic violence but “To me this looks like complete five or ten years, only a few Serbs tions in the region, but in future wonder what will happen to jobs, integration into Kosovo society. If will be left in Mitrovica,” she pre- It is symptomatic of a wider the money will have to flow via schools and other down-to-earth so, what will come of our health dicts. question about where the Serb-run Prishtina. issues. and social care contributions?” he Others say leaving is not even north of Kosovo belongs and what Kosovo Serb leaders have con- “If we are going to receive our asks. an option. “I don’t care what its future holds following the demned the agreement as a first salaries via Prishtina, who can “What will happen with our becomes of the deal,” says 76- recent EU-led agreement between step towards recognition of guarantee that Kosovo will not cut children and what they will be year-old Dragan, sitting in the Belgrade and Prishtina. Kosovo’s independence, pro- them and keep some of the money learning at schools?” he wonders. park just metres from the KFOR Serbs in this corner of Kosovo claimed in 2008. for its own budget?” she asks. A judge in Mitrovica says an soldiers who guard the bridge wonder what the deal will mean “We won’t support implementa- “If there is a Kosovo stamp on obstacle impeding the acceptance between south and north and under whose jurisdiction they tion of the agreement. I’ve lived in my child’s diploma, will it be of the Kosovo judicial system in Mitrovica. will end up living. Serbian Kosovo and Mitrovica my accepted in Serbia?” she contin- the north is concern about safety. “I think it will be hard, but I Lack of information about the whole life and now someone else ues. “We have passed verdicts didn’t leave in 1999, and none of consequence of the deal has creat- has decided that I must live under “I don’t mind my children against people who dealt in ter- the bombs that have exploded in ed new uncertainty in the town. the jurisdiction of Prishtina,” learning Albanian, it’s an added rorism, but, because they were Mitrovica since then, or the Y Besides the whole question of Sreten, a local shopworker, says. richness, but I don’t want them not available to Serbian law attacks, has frightened me away,” M which state they will live in, many “I will not vote in the elections learning history only from enforcement agencies, these peo- he adds. C fear losing their jobs or pensions. for the association, either,” he Kosovo textbooks,” she adds. ple remain free in Kosovo,” he “This is my home and this is K Since the end of the Kosovo con- adds. “Also, if the two societies are recalls. where I’ll stay, no matter what.” neighbourhood June 7 - 20, 2013 7 New Skopje Mayor Wants Referendum on Statues Feisty critic of the government-backed city revamp says locals must have final say on Skopje 2014 after his financial probe is complete.

set with the expensive revamp of the city centre. Since the project started three By Mitra Nazar years ago, it has proved popular with many people but has also drawn criticism concerning the artistic style and a lack of trans- he new mayor of the central parency about where the money is Skopje municipality of coming from. TCentar mayor is angling for Zernovski wants local people to a local referendum on the future of decide on what to do with the proj- the controversial project known as ect and its dozens of sculptures of Skopje 2014. historical figures, “So, I'm consid- Andrej Zernovski wants citizens ering a referendum on the future to decide whether they want more of the project,” he explains. statues and monuments, and Before that, he intends to under- whether the existing ones should take an extensive investigation stay or go. into the project’s financial aspect. The leader of the small opposi- Three days after his election, tion Liberal Democratic Party has Zernovski ordered a halt to all con- always opposed the project, and struction work related to the proj- A slice of Skopje 2014, which is remaking the centre of Macedonia’s capital. (Flickr Photo/ 5telios) now is in a position to do some- ect until the investigation was thing about it, though it won’t be complete into the municipality’s Ironically, on the very night that Zernovski recalls. officially have the highest rate of easy. own involvement, the financial Zernovski celebrated his election “This sudden transparency was poverty since the independence in “Nobody ever asked the citizens transactions and any possible victory, on April 22, in the middle because they knew I was about to 1991 and every third Macedonian if they want to spend that much unlawful activities that may have of the night, no less than 29 new start an investigation.” lives in poverty. To spend so much money on statues and buildings,” occurred. sculptures were put up in the cen- But the Liberal Democrat leader money on a project like this is a Zernovski told Balkan Insight, two “Now is the time to collect all tre of town. is not satisfied with the official fig- disaster. We could have invested months after he took office in the the information about what has “In the middle of the night!” the ures. On the contrary, the financial this money in education, hospitals municipality. been going on,” Zernovski said, mayor explains, still bewildered report only fed his suspicion that or the health system.” The new mayor is adamant after appointing a commission to about what happened. “Of course money laundering had occurred. Locals meanwhile wonder what about the need to change the review the work of his predeces- they did this because they knew I One detail from the report that will happen to the dozens of sculp- course that the government has sor. wouldn’t have allowed it.” caught his eye is the reported pay- tures already on their plinths now The mayor’s predecessor, ment of 560,000 euro to the artist Zernovski is in power. Vladimir Todorovic, backed by the who designed the sculpture of “If you ask me as a citizen, I ruling VMRO-DPMNE party, Alexander the Great. would be more than glad to remove played an important role in the “The artist herself told us she most of them,” the mayor says, government-sponsored revamp of didn’t receive that amount of cautioning that it is not up to him. the city. money. She earned only 50,000 “I'm not in this position to take Zernovski has accused VMRO- euro,” Zernovski notes. “So that’s out my own frustrations. The final DPMNE of money laundering and what’s going on.” decision will be made by the citi- of neglecting democratic proce- He says his investigation will zens,” he says. dures in connection with Skopje focus on financial transactions Asked if he would at least like to 2014. such as this, where the figures do keep the monumental statue of The Ministry of Culture reacted not appear to match up. Alexander the Great, officially to the new mayor’s announced halt “For now, I can only express sus- named “Warrior on horseback,” to all further work on the project picions. But if the money was not Zernovski is non-commital. by saying that Zernovski had no transferred to the artist, we can “I don't know. It will be difficult legal basis to declare a moratori- logically assume that something is to remove that sculpture as it’s the um. wrong,” he says. biggest one,” he notes. “We'll have Zernovski insists he does have The probe will take 90 days and to discuss that.” the right. “By law the municipali- until the results are released, At the moment, Zernovski is ty has to approve construction Zernovski will not allow any con- under political pressure. His deter- activities and the placing of new struction work connected to mination to change the political statues,” he says. Skopje 2014 in his zone. climate doesn’t make him popular Significantly, immediately after He already has access to official with the VMRO-DPMNE-led gov- the local elections, the government documentation from past years ernment, or with its media back- revealed a first-ever report on the concerning the project. “It will be ers. costs of the project, saying it had a challenge because I think the On a daily basis he is a lead sub- spent a total of 208 million euro, 60 documents we have are not com- ject. “As you know, 99 per cent of million of which went to Centar plete,” he says. the media in Macedonia is con- municipality. He has also discovered that the trolled by the government and Critics estimate the real costs of municipality’s coffers are nearly they attack me every day,” he says. Skopje 2014 to be much higher, in empty. “That is an other thing we “But I’m more than ready to work the region of 500 million to even a have to investigate,” he adds. under these conditions, because I billion euro. Zernovski was always opposed was elected.” to Skopje 2014 on several grounds. The fact that citizens in his part “After the ruling party finally “Artistically it’s kitsch and just of Skopje chose Zernovski over accepted my victory [as mayor], ridiculous,” he maintains. Todorovic in the local elections they started to reveal the figures “But the financial aspect is the sends a clear message to the cen- we demanded for four years,” real disaster,” he adds. “We now tral government about Skopje 2014, he maintains. “People voted for me because Three days after his election, Zernovski ordered a halt to all they don’t support the project and construction work related to the project until the investiga- the way it’s been done,” the mayor says. tion was complete into the municipality’s own involvement, “That's why expectations are the financial transactions and any possible unlawful activi- high. It’s my obligation to do some- Y ties that may have occurred. thing about it,” he concludes. “I'm M "Nobody ever asked the citizens about Skopje 2014", says Andrej Zernovski. fighting for democracy.” C (Photo/Vanco Dzambaski) K 8 June 7 - 20, 2013 neighbourhood The Hague Tribunal, A Court Under Fire Twenty years after the United Nations formed the international criminal court in The Hague to prosecute war crimes, the Tribunal is again in the spot- light over its controversial verdicts. Western powers. ished and the evidence collected a “It seems to me the prosecution started off with the “It seems to me the prosecution long time ago. started off with the American Although the Hague Tribunal American assessment that the Serb side committed 70 per By Denis Dzidic, assessment that the Serb side com- has been criticised, it remains to be cent of the crimes, the Croatian side 20 per cent, and the in Sarajevo mitted 70 per cent of the crimes, the seen how well regional judiciaries Croatian side 20 per cent, and the in the Balkans will deal with prose- Bosniak side 10 per cent. And that is approximately the pro- Bosniak side 10 per cent. And that is cuting crimes like the murder of portion of indictments,” awyers, victims and histori- approximately the proportion of Eminic’s father when the UN court ans agree that many crimes indictments,” said Nobilo. finally closes its doors. - Anto Nobilo, Zagreb lawyer Lcommitted during the However, the greatest criticism of Balkan wars would not have been the Tribunal is its complete inabili- seriously prosecuted had it not ty to contribute to reconciliation, or been for the establishment of the to even reconcile the stances of the International Criminal Tribunal various nations about what actual- for the Former Yugoslavia 20 years ly happened during the wars. ago this week. The Tribunal would have had a At the same time, however, they much greater influence on the pub- emphasise that the Tribunal not lic if it had been located in the only did not manage to reconcile region, and if its official language the former warring nations, but was Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian, with its rulings even managed to claims lawyer Nobilo. increase tensions, as was shown by “Had the Hague Tribunal worked some of the angry reactions to the and conducted trials on the territo- acquittal of former Serbian securi- ry of the former Yugoslavia, it ty officials Jovica Stanisic and would have certainly had a better Franko Simatovic this week. reception, it would have had better The Hague has indicted 161 peo- communication with the local pop- ple, convicted 69, collected millions ulation, and the truth that was of documents, examined 4,500 wit- established there would have cer- nesses, and established standards tainly have reached the common unprecedented in international man more easily,” said Nobilo. humanitarian law. Anto Nobilo, a lawyer from Zagreb, points out that the most Victims await justice at positive thing done by the Tribunal home Serbian Security Chiefs is the fact that it indicted and con- victed people “whom national Despite the fact that numerous courts or prosecutors would have high-level political and military Acquitted of War Crimes never indicted or convicted”. officials were brought before the “If those people had not been Hague court, perpetrators of many part of a joint criminal enterprise diate release from the UN deten- caught and transferred to the crimes are still evading justice. As alongside former Serbian leader tion centre in the . Hague, they would have probably the Tribunal is set to close by the Slobodan Milosevic, Serbian Stanisic’s lawyer, Wayne posed a threat to the democratisa- end of 2014, families of victims are By Denis Dzidic, Radical Party leader Vojislav Jordash, said that his client was tion of these countries, the coun- now focusing their expectations on Marija Ristic Seselj, Croatian Serb leader Goran “in shock from happiness” and tries themselves would have been courts in their own countries. Hadzic, Croatian Serb commander that the Hague Tribunal had “con- hostages for many years, and the For example, an investigation is Milan Martic, Bosnian Serb leader firmed its capacity to deliver jus- transitional processes with the still underway into the war crime he Hague Tribunal has Radovan Karadzic, Bosnian Serb tice”. European Union would have been committed in Mrkonjic Grad, acquitted former Serbian military chief Ratko Mladic and He added that Stanisic was drastically slowed down,” claims where the remains of 181 victims Tsecurity officials Jovica Bosnian Serb ex-president Biljana eager to return to his life after Stanisic and Franko Simatovic of Nobilo. were found in a mass grave, killed Plavsic. more than a decade in the Hague’s controlling the most notorious Edina Residovic, a lawyer from in an attack on civilians and prison- The Hague prosecution, said detention unit, and said that the combat units that fought in the Sarajevo who was involved in sever- ers in the autumn of 1995. Orie, failed to prove that Stanisic ex-security boss would return to Balkan wars. al cases at the international court, Ljiljana Peric lost her father, and Simatovic served as a channel Belgrade on Friday. The Hague Tribunal on last agrees. brother and uncle in the violence. that connected all those allegedly But a group of wartime victims week acquitted Stanisic, the for- “If it had not been for the Hague “I found my brother and uncle in involved in war crimes during the from Bosnia who were at the mer head of the Serbian interior Tribunal those who committed war a mass grave. My brother had a period. Tribunal symbolically showed off ministry's security service, and his crimes would certainly have not crushed skull, most probably from “For this reason, the chamber white handkerchiefs in an expres- right-hand man, Franko been prosecuted to this extent or at a blunt object, and we identified cannot conclude that Stanisic and sion of dissatisfaction with the Simatovic, commander of the min- this level,” says Residovic. him by his fingerprint, while uncle Simatovic served as a channel for acquittal. istry's Special Operations Unit, of Besides the serious and systemat- Milorad was set on fire and we iden- sharing information between “We expected a guilty verdict, taking part in a joint criminal ic prosecution of war crimes, the tified him by his dental records,” members of the alleged joint crim- knowing the evidence. We know enterprise aimed at forcibly Tribunal also enabled the collection she said. inal enterprise,” said Orie. Stanisic and Simatovic are direct- removing Bosniaks and Croatians of material about the war, creating Enes Eminic from Sanski Most The Hague judges also conclud- ly involved in crimes. The only from large parts of Bosnia and an archive for researchers examin- says there were over 800 civilian ed that Stanisic and Simatovic thing left is to hope for is changes Croatia from 1991 to 1995. ing the 1990s conflict. victims in his town during the war. were not guilty of aiding and abet- in the appeals process,” said one of Presiding judge Alphons Orie A historian from Belgrade, Bojan The Hague Tribunal prosecuted ting crimes against Bosniaks or them, Murat Tahirovic. said that despite the fact that Dimitrijevic, says that the material political and military leaders for Croats. Commenting on the verdict, Stanisic and Simatovic organised, collected by the Hague “will sooner crimes committed in the area, but “The trial chamber concluded Serbia’s chief war crimes prosecu- supplied, financed, supported and or later be used for studying the Eminic, whose father was among that Stanisic and Simatovic organ- tor, Vladimir Vukcevic, vowed that directed the training of Serbian causes of the war in the former those killed, points out that none of ised the training and financing of Belgrade would continue to seek security units during wartime, Yugoslavia”. the direct perpetrators have ever [Serbian] Red Berets units who the real perpetrators of the their support was of a general But, he noted, “The court rulings been brought to justice. took part in crimes in Bosanski crimes. nature, and thus not aimed direct- were and will probably remain a Eminic said that the only real sat- Samac and Doboj [in Bosnia], but “The trial chamber found no ly at committing war crimes. subject of controversy.” isfaction for the victims and their the majority of judges do not connection between the accused “There is a possibility that families is the truth. believe that this help was concrete- and the direct perpetrators of the Stanisic and Simatovic’s actions “I do not consider a whole nation ly aimed at committing crimes, but crimes,” Vukcevic said in a writ- Attacked from all sides were aimed at creating and main- responsible but individuals, and more generally towards maintain- ten statement. taining Serb control over large Since the beginning of its work, these individuals should be tried, ing Serb control,” said Orie. “However, many of the crimes portions of Croatia and Bosnia the Hague Tribunal has been sub- because without convictions based Commenting on charges in the committed in this indictment are and Herzegovina,” said Orie. jected to fierce criticism from all on physical evidence there is no rec- original indictment which alleged the subject of investigations by the But he said that “it is not possi- sides. onciliation or coexistence,” says that Stanisic and Simatovic assist- Serbian war crimes prosecution. ble to conclude that the defendants Arrests and verdicts have caused Eminic. ed crimes committed by Serbian We are trying to reveal the direct shared the aim of the alleged joint happiness on one side and griev- Thanks to surviving witnesses, paramilitary units known as the perpetrators and those who criminal enterprise of forcibly ances on the other. The court has Eminic learned who was responsi- ‘Scorpions’ and ‘Arkan’s Tigers’, ordered [the crimes], and we will removing the non-Serb civilian been accused of only trying Serbs, ble for his father’s killing, but he the judges said that the defendants ask for all the evidence from the population”. using double standards, sparing top does not understand why the crime only had “weak connections to ICTY to be forwarded to us,” he The Hague judges found that Yugoslav People’s Army officials, is not being prosecuted, especially these groups”. said. Stanisic and Simatovic were not and working under the influence of because the investigation was fin- The judges ordered their imme- The verdict can be appealed. neighbourhood June 7 - 20, 2013 9 Romania’s Hungarians Yearn for Region of Their Own Ethnic Hungarians seek increased autonomy in Romania - but while the Prime Minister sounds sympathetic, majority opinion remains against the idea. in Miercurea Ciuc, in Transylvania, to attend the UDMR congress. Some came in folk costumes while By Marian Chiriac, others waved Hungarian flags and in Bucharest sang patriotic songs. All agreed that the community needs to expand on the rights that it currently enjoys. omanians eat tripe soup, “We want constitutional changes while Hungarians eat that will allow for cultural autono- Rgoulash. For me, this is the my and the possibility to set up spe- only difference between us,” says cial regions for minorities,” a docu- Catalin Manolescu, a 36-year-old ment adopted at the congress said. construction engineer in “We also propose that in regions Bucharest. [where ethnic minorities are numer- “I don’t fully understand their ous] that their language becomes an demand for more rights. We official language alongside Romanians and Hungarians are Romanian,” it added. citizens of the same country, so The UDMR plans to submit a bill why should some of us be any differ- to parliament proposing territorial ent from the others?” he adds. autonomy for the so-called Manolescu’s dismissive remarks Szeklerland, a rural region in east- are typical of the viewpoint of the Ethnic Hungarian women staff a fast food restaurant in Cluj, Romania. (Flickr Photo/Julie70) ern Transylvania where some country’s majority community 600,000 ethnic Hungarians are con- envisaged is revising the role of the Hungarians,” political analyst their mother tongue while a private when it comes to minority rights. centrated. President and the mechanism by Horatiu Pepine noted. “But I still Hungarian-language university is Another demand is for the which the President nominates the don’t think autonomy will be financially supported by the state. removal of the description of Prime Minister. accepted.” In localities where Hungarians Romania as a “national state” from Further changes will tackle the Opinion polls shows that many make up more than 20 per cent of the first paragraph of the constitu- country’s administrative organiza- people fear that autonomy for eth- the population, they have the right tion. tion, decentralise power and help nic Hungarians might lead to a dec- to use their native language with “A national state is a notion of the Romania to attract more European laration of independence and the the local authorities. past. All Romanians have to accept funds. break-up of the country. But since UDMR left the govern- that their country is a multi-ethnic While all parties agree on the While a total of 19 minorities are ment last year, some ethnic state,” the UDMR president, need for administrative changes, officially recognised in Romania, Hungarians fear their privileges Kelemen Hunor, said. their proposals differ substantially. ethnic Hungarians and Roma are by could be eroded. He added that the party plans a The ruling centre-left coalition far the largest. “We want autonomy. Autonomy is media campaign aimed at making calls for the current 41 counties to The Hungarian community is about dealing with our own prob- the notion of autonomy more be dissolved and replaced by eight estimated to number about 1.4 mil- lems. Each nation understands acceptable to Romanians. regions, defined mainly by econom- lion. Most live in Transylvania, itself the best,” says Toro Tibor, a The Prime Minister, Victor Ponta, ic characteristics. especially in the north and east of Szekler leader who has long cam- A road sign in Romanian and Hungarian. who attended the congress, said he For its part, the UDMR wants 15 the region, where they form a paigned for an autonomous region (Flickr Photo/Julie70) understood the Hungarian regions, including a majority ethnic majority in some areas. in Transylvania. demands and may consider them. Hungarian one in Transylvania. Their political interests are repre- Transylvania formed part of the But such views cut no ice among “A change in the constitution The chances of this coming to sented by the UDMR, which has Kingdom of Hungary for centuries. members of Romania’s large requires support from most light remain slim. The ethnic been part of, or close to, govern- It became part of Romania after Hungarian community, or among Romanian politicians, which is not Romanian majority remains suspi- ments of both right and left for the Hungary emerged on the losing their main party, the Democratic easy to achieve,” he observed. cious of Hungarian demands and it last 15 years. side of the First World War. Union of Hungarians in Romania, “But I hope we will together find a is hard to imagine them accepting The party’s policy of taking up a While Romania’s right to UDMR. solution that will guarantee that territorial autonomy, most analysts strong role in Romanian govern- Transylvania is not now questioned This week the UDMR demanded you are part of the nation and this say. ments has been successful in win- by anyone except the most fervent constitutional changes that would country belongs also to you,” he “Ponta’s statement at the UDMR ning the community greater rights Hungarian nationalists, the treat- grant ethnic minorities more auton- added. congress is a sign that Romanian in education, justice and local ment of the Hungarian minority omy and cultural rights. Romania started the process on politicians are willing to negotiate administration. remains a political issue, even Over a thousand representatives changing the constitution this on sensitive issues related to Ethnic Hungarians now have the today. of the party gathered at the weekend week. Among the main changes increased autonomy for ethnic right to education at all levels in Relations between Romanians and Hungarians are good in gener- al. After Romania joined the EU the two countries decided to leave behind historical disputes and work together in the EU to promote common and regional interests. But some analysts say there is a risk that future discussion of increased autonomy for Hungarians could prompt a return to the populist politics of the past. “Romanians and Hungarians have a tradition of bullying each other. The government in Bucharest, but also radical leaders from the Hungarian community, are both interested in stirring up national hostility,” journalist Sabina Fati notes. “Ethnic tensions make it easier to retain power and can also divert people’s attention from current eco- nomic problems,” she adds. “The old tensions between the ethnic communities in Trans- ylvania have dissipated in recent years - but they could resurface if there is a political interest for Most of Romania’s Hungarians live in Transylvania. (Flickr Photo/will_hybrid) them to do so,” she concludes. 10 June 7 - 20, 2013 travel Natural Beauty Surrounds Artificial Lake Matka activity, the Matka restaurant, sit- uated along the shore of the lake offers a savory local cuisine. By Douglas E Morris Rustic in its charm, there are 80 seats inside, and more than 400 on their terrace overlooking the lake. Here you can savor authentic atka may be the oldest homemade Macedonian delica- man-made lake in cies. During the day, this spot gets MMacedonia, but there is rather crowded, but it is easy to nothing artificial about the natu- escape it all by hiking the trail, ral beauty. Only around 15 km grabbing a kayak and heading out from the heart of Skopje, if you into the lake, or taking the hour are looking for a scenic weekend trip, filled with rustic local food in long boat tour to the caves. stunning natural settings, along If you want to remain while all with a vibrant, fun atmosphere the day trippers have done, above during the day, and peace and the restaurant is the Hotel Matka. serenity at night, then look no fur- Nestled next to the lake, right up ther than Matka Canyon. against the cliffs and next to an At Matka Canyon you will find orthodox church, Hotel Matka is a the impressive Vrelo underwater peaceful respite from urbanity. It cave – one of the world's deepest – offers a panoramic terrace free reached by well used wooden wifi, modern flat-screen TVs, and boats for only 5 euro a person, a all the serenity you can soak up. challenging 6km long hiking trail They only have 6 rooms, so book cut through the sheer cliffs along well in advance. the lake, ancient monasteries, an If you are looking for natural Olympic training site for white beauty, rustic charm, and a water kayaking that you can try chance to get away from it all, your hand at, as well as cave div- look no further than Matka ing, rock climbing, and much Canyon, either as a day trip from more. Skopje, or a weekend away from A beautiful view from Lake Matka. (Flickr Photo/lizardphoto) Along with all of this outdoorsy . marketing Best priced English language preschool in Pristina

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For more information please contact: 5   t.    &JOGP!QBSLTDIPPMDPNt8XXXQBSLTDIPPMDPN Y F: www.facebook.com/Park-School-Pristina M C K feature June 7 - 20, 2013 11 Vetevendosje, USA

Opposition party leaders use first tour of America to wow diaspora Albanians and tone down the party’s rough-and- ready image.

By Artrit Bytyci, in New York Photos by Skyler Reid

Story on Page 12 12 June 7 - 20, 2013

Vetevendosje Polishes

Visar Ymeri, the head of Vetevendosje’s parliamentary group, is himself photographed at he snaps photos. Party leader and MP Albin Kurti shows his affable side in New York. June 7 - 20, 2013 13

Image on First US Tour

lbin Kurti says Vetevendosje has an Vetevendosje: Key Facts image problem. “If you watch the Anews in Kosovo, and this is especially - Founded as a street movement in 2005 by Albin Kurti, a former stu- true for the Public Television, an unin- formed citizen could get the perception that dent organizer and KLA secretary the Vetevendosje Movement is in power,” - Famed for street actions involving overturning UNMIK cars, political the MP and leader of the opposition party told a group of diaspora Albanians recently graffiti and massive protests in New York. - In 2007 two Vetevendosje protesters were killed by Romanian “But, at the same time, they say, ‘Ah, they are small and unimportant,’” Kurti added. UNMIK police during protest In other words, Vetevendosje gets a lot of - Formed as a in 2010 attention these days but not necessarily of - Came in third in the 2010 parliamentary elections with 12% of the vote the best kind. A case in point was when Kurti and other - The moderate New Spirit party merged with Vetevendosje in 2010, after failing to secure a seat in the Assembly Vetevendosje [Self-Determination] leaders - Main principles: against international supervision and neoliberal economic policies, for national unification and finished their two-week tour of the US this week. economic self-sufficiency Back home, party activists spray-painted the Mercedes-Benz of the Deputy Minister of Economic Development at the Grand Hotel Since it entered parliament in 2011, But 20 per cent is well up on the 12.7 per home mingling with smartly dressed mem- in Prishtina, which made it to the TV news Vetevendosje has walked a fine line between cent that the party received in the last gener- bers of the Albanian diaspora from Kosovo, and the front pages of some newspapers. sticking to its anti-establishment roots — al election in Kosovo in 2010. Macedonia, Albania and elsewhere. The stunt, designed to draw attention to which in part reject the way in which “Vetevendosje is a force with governing In the US, Kurti sipped beers and posed for dodgy privatisation deals, was a trademark Kosovo became independent in 2008 under potential. It has increased support while … photographs with supporters on a visit that Vetevendosje gesture, though tame by the international supervision — while partici- the largest political parties in the post-war featured stops on the East Coast and party’s own standards. Back in the 2000s, pating directly in the national legislature. period are weakening,” Shinasi Rama, a Midwest, where most American Albanians when it started as a grassroots movement, it Its strategy seems to be working. A survey political science professor at New York live. was well known for colourful street protests in May, by the Kosovar Center for Security University, said. Around 200,000 Americans identified as well as nationalistic rhetoric. Studies, found that 20 per cent respondents Rama said the two-week US tour by themselves as Albanian in the 2010 census. Such actions galvanize supporters but intend to vote for Vetevendosje in the next Vetevendosje leaders - their first - was impor- The number of US nationals from Kosovo is also get dismissed by others as thuggish. general election. tant as it “shows that Vetevendosje is a force not known, but they are thought to number Y They also often overshadow the party’s The party still trails the ruling Democratic to be taken seriously”. tens of thousands and some have deep pock- M activities in parliament, where it holds 12 Party of Kosovo, PDK, and the opposition While Vetevendosje’s image is associated ets. C seats. Democratic League of Kosovo, LDK. with protests, its leaders seem just as at continues page 14 K 14 June 7 - 20, 2013 feature

from page 13 Albanians in the Balkans should RECENT VV MOVES live in one country. The Vetevendosje leaders, Kurti, “The Albanian nation in the August 2011: party vice-chairman Shpend Balkans must get stronger during Ahmeti and MP Florin Krasniqi this second decade of the 21st cen- Vetevendosje deputies also visited politicians and US tury,” he said. State Department officials in “And getting stronger doesn’t walk out of Assembly dur- Washington. only imply having a functioning ing debate on religious Hosts included Eliot Engel, democracy and a rule of law that whose New York City district has a fights corruption ... but also education in schools large Albanian population, and implies economic development Senator Chris Murphy of based on production and a power- January 2012 Connecticut. ful army. Vetevendosje activists Kurti last visited the US in 1997 “We at Vetevendosje are not while leading student protests afraid to say such things because block the road to Merdare against the Serbian regime of we are aware that it is precisely Slobodan Milosevic. our weakness that increases the in order to enforce trade According to Vetevendosje sup- likelihood of new bloodshed in the porters, Kurti has since been Balkans,” he added. ban with Serbia denied a visa to the US on multiple “Unification of Kosovo with August 2012 occasions, which party supporters Albania, leading towards blamed on Kurti’s poor relations Albanian national unification in a Anti-privatisation action with various US ambassadors and way secures a new balance of the Kosovo government. power in the Balkans and is not featuring Vetevendosje The US State Department only justice but is also in our eco- declined to discuss whether Kurti nomic and security interest,” activists “selling” Prime had been denied a visa, or why he Kurti continued. Minister Thaci’s house obtained one for this visit, citing National unification is perhaps confidentiality grounds. the most attention-grabbing part October 2012 of Vetevendosje’s platform, which Staying on message: includes less controversial ele- Vetevendosje deputies are ments such as the need for greater Visar Ymeri, head of economic self-sufficiency. prevented from entering Vetevendosje’s parliamentary The international community Assembly building on the group, said the US visit enabled the spurns calls for Albanian unifica- party to reframe the way it is seen. tion as an unacceptable attempt to eve of vote on selling elec- “This visit allows everyone in rewrite internationally recog- the United States, whether they are nized frontiers. Tracey Ann tricity distribution net- Albanians in the diaspora or US Jacobson, the US ambassador to work. Protests on Mother officials, to get directly informed Kosovo, told Radio Television of about Vetevendosje’s intentions, Kosovo in January that “the idea Teresa Boulevard ensue. values, political activities and of a greater Albania is not help- vision for the future of Kosovo and ful”. October 2012 Albanians in general,” he said, “so Ahmeti, one of the party’s more that they don’t get that informa- moderate voices, put Vetevendosje protests tion in a distorted way from oth- Vetevendosje’s ambitions in a soft- new round of Kosovo- ers, meaning Kosovo’s government er light. “We hope that the others or certain diplomats that serve in will also see this movement as William Walker, top, a former American diplomat, voices his support for Vetevendosje. Serbia talks. Police crack- Prishtina.” channeling people’s desires for a Above, Ymeri chats at a restaurant in New York City. Vetevendosje held two events in better life in the Albanian lands,” down results in accusa- New York, at an upscale nightclub he said. future,” Blerim Arifi, a physician Vetevendosje from the media, tions of police brutality by and a restaurant. While the sub- who attended one of the events, rather now, when I got a chance to dued elegance of the events con- Mixed reviews: said. see them directly,” he said. Amnesty International. trasted with the street actions for But, reflecting the delicacy of Ljuta fears that in the quest to which the party is best known, The events in New York drew a the task of expanding the party’s gain more votes in the short term, January 2013 Kurti did not tone down his mes- largely supportive crowd. “Every appeal while retaining core sup- Vetëvendosje’s leaders increasing- sage. time I listen to Albin, who is port, Burim Ljuta, an electrician ly look like the politicians they Solidarity march organ- In a crowding-pleasing pitch to a known for his clarity of thoughts from Macedonia, did not much oppose. “Many people went ized in support of Serbia’s pan-Albanian crowd, Kurti repeat- and concepts, it reinforces my like what he heard and saw. through many protests, and they ed his conviction that all belief that it [Vetevendosje] is the “I was more fond of deserve more, ” Ljuta observed. ethnic Albanians, after memorial is removed by Serbian authorities in Presevo. March 2013: Vetevendosje deputies introduce initiative to legally recognize and sup- port Kosovar women raped during the 1999 conflict. Nazlie Bala, head of Vetevendosje’s Women’s Secretariat is attacked. May 2013 Key Vetevendosje figures go on U.S. talking tour, Y M networking with Albanian- C American community K Albin Kurti mingles with members of the Albanian diaspora in New York. marketing June 7 - 20, 2013 15

Y M C K 16 June 7 - 20, 2013 Guide

Here is Prishtina Insight’s guide to the best places in town to eat, drink, shop and be merry. We’ll keep this section updated with the newest and coolest places

town. Select a booth, ask the amiable staff to seat, if you intend to make a night of it. Next opening in Kosovo. tune into your match and grab a 'double to A&A restaurant and has round windows. decker' or 'triple burger', which look like Opens: 8pm-to late. Shut on Sundays. Restaurants: community of Kosovo. If you are acquaint- American fast-food classics but taste better. ed with Thai food, you're not in for any sur- Friday night Karaoke is a must-see, must- prises here, with the typical assortment of Fastfood: Liburnia 1 and 2 sing event. curries, salads and deep fried treats, deliv- Rr Meto Bajraktar, tel. +381 (0)38 222 719. Hard Rockers Club ered to decent standards. At 7 or 8 euro for a There are actually two Liburnias opposite Road Ilaz Kodra, contact: vraja_fatos@ hot- Bel Ami main course, it's relatively pricey compared each other, both very similar in style and mail.com. It's one of the few places in Rr Luan Haradinaj, Tel: +377 (0)44 133 848, to its neighbours. Open Monday-Thursday food. Housed in a fine Ottoman abode and Prishtina where you can catch regular live +386 49 133 848. The ideal town-centre stop 11:00-14:00 and 17:45-22:30; Friday-Sunday surrounded by pleasant walled gardens, acts and the only place which caters for for a quick lunch or takeaway snack, Bel 11:00-23:00. Liburnia oozes atmosphere, whether in win- those who like their rock served up heavy, or Ami unceremoniously serves some of the ter or summer. The food is a roll call of hard. On a quiet night, it's quite a comfort- best chicken doner in Prishtina in a surpris- Renaissance II decent traditional Albanian food, including able venue to grab a beer, even if you are not ingly un-greasy, smoke-free environment. Rr. George Bush (behind the Pro Credit Bank the usual stews (tave) and grilled meat. It’s being entertained by hirsute musicians . Ask for a “komplet” to get the classic doner HQ), tel. +377 (0)44 118 796. Renaissance not the best place in town to sample local packed with salad and sauces and wrapped offers arguably the best overall dining expe- delicacies, but a good choice given the set- The Cuban in tin foil. Monday-Friday 9 am - 7.30 pm; rience in Prishtina. It's quite an experience ting. Open 8 am - 11 pm Road Luan Haradinaj Tel: +377(0) 45 620 620. Saturday 9 am - 8 pm. just to find the place. Tucked away along a This is a decent addition to the city's drink- tiny alleyway, you enter the homely, stone Country House ing scene, even if the place can be full of building through heavy wooden doors. It's Clubs: Off road to Podujevo from Pristina, right spivs and tarts who aren't going to a fancy- 15 euro per head, and for that you will be after the Muciqi Mercedes-Benz garage, tel. dress party. The Cuban-themed décor is kept fed, watered and supplied with booze P1 +377 (0)44 656 054. This rustic restaurant is decadent Havana, the food is average, and for at least a three course meal, including a Fehmi Agani, +377 (0)44 608 669. If you’re a 15-minute drive outside Pristina (on a not very Caribbean, but the cocktails are wonderful meze starter and a delicious looking for cool, then P1 is probably not good day) and provides glorious views good. 8 am - 1 am. main course cooked on embers. Open 11 am the spot for you. The decor is pretty unin- across rolling, verdant hills and is especial- spiring, the music is bog standard and the - 11 pm. Xhoni’s Bar ly pleasant place in the summer to watch atmosphere reminiscent of a cattle mar- Rexhep Mala, Pristina, tel. +377 (0)44 750 720. the sunset. The overall food quality is ket. But if your thing is scantily clad Bars: Xhoni’s is, without doubt, a Prishtina insti- decent, with special marks for the fresh young women or packs of amorous boys, tution. It’s small, friendly and smoky, plays bread, straight from the wood stove, and than it’s an excellent choice. And, in the excellent soul, disco and classic rock music speca me maze (peppers in cream). 10 am - Tapë venue’s defence, it does have a pleasant from vinyl and is open until the last man or 11 pm. Hajdar Dushi Street Nr. 2 (next to Zani Bar, outdoor area for summer dancing. woman staggers out. Arrive by 11pm at the Kada Books, in front of the Radio Working hours Wednesday, Friday, weekend to secure a corner, or even better a Princesha Gresa Dukagjini). Tapë — which means “cork” in Saturday from 9 pm to 3 am. 23 Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +381 (0) 38 24 58 41. If Albanian but is often used to denote you have a horse-size hole in your stomach extreme drunkenness — is a bar with a to fill, this is the place to come. The meal warm atmosphere in Prishtina’s centre. It starts with some free bread and dips and is serves homemade rakia, as well as a variety followed by gargantuan portions of salad, of beers and other liquors, and, of course, meat, fish, or anything else on this varied Stone Castle wine - all at reasonable prices. menu. The food is sometimes great, some- times average but always served in massive Crème de la Crème portions. Open 10 am - 11 pm. Rr Robert Doll, tel. +377(0)44259912. Crème is probably the best all-round bar in the city. Hemingway It's run for the amusement of the young, Rr Ilaz Kodra, tel. +386 (0)49 145 637. Yes, you arty owners and not for profit, which can get fresh sea fish in landlocked Kosovo. explains the more-than-generous pricing Hemingway is tucked away in an unappeal- arrangements, especially for the perfectly ing end of the city but worth a trip if you executed cocktails. Its five tiny floors heave are craving food of the piscine variety. It's a on Fridays and Sundays with Pristina's cool pretty basic sort of set-up and relatively to the variety of beats. Every Wednesday, expensive for the setting, but undoubtedly Friday and Saturday from 8pm to 3am. one of the best places in town for fish. Open 9 am - 11 pm Filikaqa Rr Mujo Ulqinaku BL 4/1, Pejton, website Le Siam Thai www.filikaqa.com; 038 244 288. Whistle, as it Rr Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 (0)45 243 588. translates from Albanian, offers a dizzying Stylishly designed and smoke-free, Le Siam array of televisions on which to watch your has become a real hit for the international sport of choice and eat the best burgers in Hot Food: VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT (ABOVE), Rruga Garibaldi, Behind Metro Caffe. Tingell-Tengell’s short-lived but much loved vegetarian menu gets a restaurant of its own. It doesn’t have a name, and it’s delicious. There’s falafel, hummus, baba ghanouj and more. The stew is also luxurious. All the food is under 5 euro. The bar also fea- tures a few whiskies you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere in Prishtina, as well as an allegedly 36-year-old rakia. The space also feels like home, in that down-to-earth hipster sort of way. The only quibble is the bread, which is a rather basic white bread that’s toasted and garnished with herbs. It doesn’t do justice to the otherwise spectac- ular fare. Don’t miss the poppyseed cake, either. - Gravlax

FRESCO (LEFT). Rr. Fehmi Agani. The newest eatery to hit Prishtina’s fine-dining scene, Fresco has designs on being one of its best. Forgive the excessive interior design - the food is is elegant and simple, with a gastronomic sense that in-step with the times. The salmon filet (11.50 euro) is a standout: succulent and flavorful, appear- ing alongside a sweet potato puree and tempura-fried zucchini. The steaks are perfect, too. +377 (0) 44 333 772.

PAPIRUN Tel. 045 26 23 23. Papirun has seating at two perpendicular counters in what’s basically a hole-in-the-wall just off Mother Teresa Boulevard, near the Grand Hotel. The menu has 13 options: 6 pizzas and seven sandwiches. The sandwiches are Y the stars, though. Every component is handled with care. The bread alone is good M enough to make just about any sandwich into a glorious feast. It’s freshly baked and seasoned with rosemary. C K June 7 - 20, 2013 17 Guide Contact Prishtina Insight if you would like your event to feature or to advertise your venue. Email [email protected]

Where to pick up Prishtina Insight?

Prishtina Insight has teamed up with these excellent venues to offer a limited Hotel Prishtina number of complimentary copies of Kosovo’s only English-language newspaper. Hotel Prishtina’s 43 charming guest rooms and suites are Grab a copy of the publication and settle down with a drink or a meal to read it. reminiscent of a small hotel in the European tradition. You'll immediately feel at home in our living room, sipping a glass of wine in our fine restaurant surrounded by a gallery of paintings by local artists. The hotel offers free, fast wifi internet, complimentary breakfast, Papillon Bistro Bar conference room, swimming pool, sauna and laundry service. Hotel Prishtina, This newly reopened bar in Prishtina, Papillon, offers St. Vaso Pasha nr. 20 more than 60 types of wines from France, Italy, Spain, +381 38 / 22 32 84 and Kosovo with great prices and delicious dishes. They serve pasta, sandwiches, salads and different appetizers. You can also try different types of local or internation- al beers. The bar, with it’s stunning new design, is located in the centre of Prishtina, near ProCredit Bank headquar- ter, RTK radio centre, and the Mother Teresa cathedral.

Papillon Mother Teresa Str. Nr. 51 A [email protected] 044 103 310

Hotel AFA Hotel Gracanica Located in a quiet neighbourhood just A place to relax in the calm and clean outside the city centre, Hotel Afa can air of the country side, just 15 minutes- guarantee guests a peaceful night while from Prishtina city center, 500 m from being within walking distance of all the the center of Gracanica and its UNESCO action. The venue has won a host of World Heritage monastery and a short awards for its excellent service to cus- walk to the archeological site of tomers and offers a good range of facili- Ulpiana. Offering 5 single, 7 double ties, from an exclusive restaurant and rooms, 3 studios as well as two meeting VIP bar to pretty, tranquil gardens. rooms (16 / 6 p.), the boutique hotel com- Rooms start at 45 euro for a single, and bines contemporary architecture with- luxury rooms and apartments are avail- traditional elements to create a unique able. The hotel’s rooms are well appoint- atmosphere that will make you feel at ed and comfortable. home. +381 (0)38 729 888 (landline) 15, Rr Ali Kelmendi, +386 (0)49 764 000 Sunny Hill, Prishtina [email protected] +381 38/225 226 www.hotelgracanica.com www. hotelafa. com www.facebook.com/HotelGracanica

Paddy O’Brien’s A taste of Napoli in Prishtina. The Ninety One Emerald Hotel The staff at After ten years of making pizza in The Ninety One (91-shi) is back with its Paddy Look no further Napoli, and with only love to blame, new location and old tradition. The own- than Emerald O’Brien’s have Fatmir, the head chef, returned to ers and the staff are the same. Daily spe- Hotel, set not a saying: “It’s Prishtina. His pizzas, made in a wood- cials are changed on a daily basis. The far from the easy to walk in, burn stove, are definitely genuine breakfast is still served as usual while the urban life of but very hard napolitanas. Fatmir also has several coffee is served with delicious home- Prishtina. to leave.” delicious pastas on offer, a true joy for made almond biscotti. Breakfast menu Located within And with its the taste buds. Napoli has an excellent includes; English breakfast, French toast 10 minutes from warm atmos- selection of red and white wines or, for croissants, puff pastries and omelettes the city, bars, phere, fantastic the more ambitious, one of the region's with your choice of toppings. The new restaurant and range of drinks best quince raki. Napoli makes for deli- menu dishes include: roast fillet of beef noisy nightlife, the Emerald Hotel gives you and excellent the opportunity to rest and also enjoy your cious lunch, dinner or even after-the- served with spinach potatoes & wine, food, it is easy visit here. atre time out in the centre of Prishtina. Chicken and confit garlic in bed of mash to see why. The Emerald Hotel providesyou with a variety & thyme juice. Dessert are served and There have been many attempts to establish a of conveniences whether you are a business or Pizzeria Napoli garnished with fresh herbs and are all proper Irish pub in Prishtina, but this is the a leisure traveler, offering gracious service off Luan Haradinaj, opposite home made. Lemon tart and Chocolate only one to hit the spot. with a multilingual staff, banquet halls, busi- Newborn mouse is a must try. The kitchen is open From classic coffees to cocktails, via, of ness center, spa services and several dining 044/409-402402 every day until 11:00 pm. course, Guinness, you really wont find it diffi- outlets. cult to select the perfect drink. Fehmi Agani str., 29/2 (Te kafet e Our 72 rooms and suites, which are exquisitely A mouth-watering menu of Irish specialties is vogla) - 044 91 91 91 - modern and luxurious offer both comfort and also on offer, spanning from all-day breakfasts to superb amenities and leave you with an impec- Irish stews at night. cable experience. Emerald Hotel is your home Options include shepherd’s pie, bangers and away from home. mash, fish ‘n chips, and whopping great burgers. Contact Info Thursday is pub quiz night, but there is always Prishtina-Skopje Highway something going on at the pub, whether it is sport 10000 Prishtina - Kosovo screenings or just a good shindig. FOR CONFERENCE & EVENTS: Paddy O’Brien’s +381 (0)38 588 888 503 Y Tringe Smajli Street, by the Illyria Hotel [email protected] Prishtina: 045-420900 M C K 18 June 7 - 20, 2013 timeout

Theatre

“After Earth” everyday at 10:30pm A crash landing leaves teenager Kitai Raige (Jaden Smith) and his legendary father Cypher (Will Smith) stranded on Earth 1,000 years after cataclysmic events forced humanity’s escape. With Cypher criti- “The last station” cally injured, Kitai must embark on a perilous jour- Every Thursday at 8pm ney to signal for help, facing uncharted terrain, The story is situated in the year 2015. evolved animal species that now rule the planet, and Nowadays and past problems are car- an unstoppable alien creature that escaped during ried in the year of 2015. Burim is the the crash. Father and son must learn to work togeth- main character who is looking for the er and trust one another if they want any chance of truth, for his family and his fiancé, returning home. which are still missing since the war Starring: Will Smith, Jaden Smith, Zoe Krawitz, Sophie Okonedo. of KLA ended. After many attempts Directed by: M. Night Shyamalan he finds out that his neighbour is still alive and that he knows more about his family. Burim can’t live in the present; he is always going back to “The Croods” 3D the past, in the memories of his fami- every weekend at 1pm ly and Behare, his fiancé. Halfway he The Croods is a prehistoric comedy adventure that follows the world's first family as they embark on a meets a young girl called Shpresa journey of a lifetime when the cave that has always who reminds him of Behare and shielded them from danger is destroyed. Traveling finally gets part of Burim’s life. across a spectacular landscape, the Croods discover Based on the novel “Birds fly on their an incredible new world filled with fantastic crea- own” by Ibrahim Kadriu. tures -- and their outlook is changed forever. Directed by Lirak Celaj and Florent “As if this was a show” Director: Kirk De Micco, Chris Sanders Mehmeti Every Wednesday at 8pm Writers: Chris Sanders, Kirk De Micco etc. Cast: Besnik Krapi, Liridona Shehu, "In the bus no. 4...during the war in Starring: Nicolas Cage, Emma Stone, Ryan Ilire Celaj, Adrian Morina, Eshref Prishtina ...a 26 years old - young Reynolds. Durmishi and Kushtrim Sheremeti. man...is wearing jeans and a black T- shirt... At "Union" hotel...sniper breaks a window... and the youngster is shot in the neck... A lady dressed in “Epic” 3D white, who was standing near him Every day at 3pm starts to scream. When she sees the A teenager finds herself transported to a deep for- blood in her shirt she faints... two est setting where a battle between the forces of good hours later...she is seen at the Big and the forces of evil is taking place. She bands Mosque...near café "Romantika", but together with a rag-tag group characters in order to this time accompanied by a friend save their world -- and ours. younger than her... Director: Chris Wedge Writers: James V. Hart, William Joyce etc. Based on the drama by: Almir Starring: Collin Farell, Josh Hutcherson, Beyonce Imshireviq Knowles. Directed by Agon Myftari Cast: Rebeka Qena, Ardian Morina, Armend Ismajli, Besnik Krapi

“Fast and Furious 6” Every day at 8pm Hobbs has Dom and Brian reassemble their crew in order to take down a mastermind who commands an organization of mercenary drivers across 12 Friday, June 7 – 6pm Thursday, June 13, 2013 – 8pm countries. Payment? Full pardons for them all. “Narnia” “Someone Famoues” Director: Justin Lin From “The lion, the witch and the By Douglas M. Larson, Directed by Writers: Chris Morgan, Gary Scott Thompson wardrobe” by C.S. Lewis Rozi Kostani Starring: Vin Diesel, Paul Walker, Dwayne Johnson. Director: Arjeta Ajeti and Antti Sevanto Monday, June 17 “After Miss Julie” Tuesday, June 11 – 8pm By Patrick Marber, Directed by “Killing a Mosquito” Kushtrim Koliqi By Xhevdet Bajraj, Director: Donard “Star Trek into Hasani Wednesday, June 19 – 8pm “Rabbit Hole” Darkness” 3D Wednesday, June 12 – 8pm By David Lindsey – Abaire, Directed “Kopelia” Ballet by Zana Hoxha Krasniqi Every day at 3pm Choreographer Ilir Kerni, Music by After the crew of the Enterprise find an unstop- Leo Delibes Thursday, June 20 – 8pm pable force of terror from within their own organiza- “Where the light falls” Ballet tion, Captain Kirk leads a manhunt to a war-zone Choreographer Antonio Pio Fini world to capture a one man weapon of mass destruc- tion. Director: J.J. Abrams Writers: Roberto Orci, Alex Kurtzman Starring: Chris Pine, Zachary Quinto, Zoe Saldana Prishtina Diary HAMAM JAZZ BAR Crème De La Crème Friday, June 7 Saturday, June 8, 9pm Y For any further questions or reservations call at 038 243 238 or visit them at Saturday, June 8 Maja Jazz Quartet Labinot Sponca and M www.kinoabc.com Saturday Blues Night Pulsar C Onija Blues Band K inside prishtina June 7 - 20, 2013 19

Drinking in the Good Life Any new venue in one of Prishtina’s main social hubs would have a hard time drawing away the steady clientele of macchiato devotees and bar hop- pers from the competing veteran bars located there. Bon Vivant attempts to do this with a nod toward the Francophones amongst us, its creative inte- rior and affordable prices attracting even the most die-hard challengers.

By Una Hajdari

rishtina’s busiest cafe corri- dor saw a new bar join its Pranks in March of this year when Bon Vivant opened right across from Strip Depot. Squeezed in between a row of boutiques and its larger competitor NOMNOM on the right, Bon Vivant is a short walk away from Rexhep Luci Street’s main landmark, ABC Cinema, and is easy to spot due to the bright red miniature Eiffel Tower that stands in its relatively spacious front terrace. Passers-by will be drawn to Bon Vivant’s colourful exterior, which nicely complements the vibrant atmosphere created by the steady crowd that occupies the wire tables and chairs in front of the bar. Boasting a largely hand-made interior with the odd Ikea lamp here or there, the inside is divided into three relatively small areas, each with its own specific purpose and layout. Visitors can pick between high stools and lower wooden chairs, a pair of patch- work sofas next to wall-high win- Bon Vivant in Prishtina’s centre exudes Paris on the outside. dows, or the comfortable couches day, and a comfortable night haunt Most of the English-speaking pomegranate and orange juice, free to ask “Lover” to make you placed on parallel ends of the in the later hours, both for small staff is found at the bar, made up and various fruit shakes. something special; his favorite space, making Bon Vivant a decent and large groups alike. entirely out of cupboard drawers, Bon Vivant truly comes to life concoction is “Green Chile”, a coffee or meeting stop during the which stretches along the length starting around 4 p.m. This coin- brightly colored cocktail contain- its two main areas. The waiting cides with the start of its Happy ing strawberry vodka, rum, blue staff are distinguished by their Hour, which lasts for three hours, curacao, orange juice and kiwi black t-shirts with the logo, a gold- until 7 p.m. This is when the main syrup. Bon Vivant does not have a colored female silhouette, printed bartender, referred to affectionate- wine list. You’ll have to ask the on the front. For those stopping by ly as “Lover” by staff and visitors waiter for a rundown of the avail- during the day, Bon Vivant offers alike, whips up a variety of tradi- able wines, which come in bottles Prishtina’s trademark macchiato tional and new cocktails as the of various sizes, including the pop- alongside the typical assortment music turns up a notch, the lights ular small bottle of rosé or the of non-alcoholic drinks and a start to dim and those seeking local Stone Castle wine. On largely unremarkable menu - no relief from their day jobs start Wednesdays, Fridays and French fine dining here. Offering occupying the more comfortable Saturdays there is a greater influx various salads, sandwiches and seats. Drinks are currently served of visitors during evening hours. pasta dishes, all of the food with a complimentary bowl of Call ahead for reservations. options are available in their vege- cherries or strawberries, and tarian form, although not speci- sometimes carrot or cucumber Bon Vivant fied in the menu. It offers a daily sticks when the former are out of Rexhep Luci Street, Prishtina soup and dessert option, part of season. Cocktail prices are sliced +38649707060 the affordable price range from to 3 euro from the regular 4 euro Working Hours: 7 a.m. to 12 a.m. 1.50 to 4 euro. Fresh juices include per each cone-shaped glass. Feel Longer on weekends. The bar is perfect for a coffee, in addition to drinks. 20 June 7 - 20, 2013 opinion

The work at Taukbashqe is an imperfect step in the right direction. (Photo/Korab Basha) Ecosovo Taukbashqe Park: When Good Intentions Hit a Pile of Dirt work together. The project – funded entire- point for the sprawling city - a place where But Taukbashqe’s current ly by the municipal budget – is a collabora- cafes and children could cluster, bringing tion between the departments of urban some of the atmosphere of Prizren to the state is also a case study planning, of public services, of culture, capital. However, the reason they were cov- By Elizabeth Gowing youth and sport, of the environment and of ered over is possibly the same concern that of the risks that come infrastructure. Like a depressing metaphor threatens this stretch of water in for collaboration, if you walk along one of Taukbashqe – because the watercourses from different municipal Taukbashqe newly faced paths, you’ll find were more like sewers. In Taukbashqe t’s the bit of park you see before you that it runs out in a pile of dirt. reach Germia – like the appetizer before there is an unmistakeable smell along the departments having to Some elements of the park’s redesign are Ithat feast of greenery. It’s a piece of southern edge which is enough to put you awaiting new funds, says Dukagjin Gashi, ground which used to seem ill-kept and off your picnicking, and if the area is real- work together. The proj- of the municipality’s department for pub- unloved but you may have noticed this year ly to be transformed this is the biggest task lic services. He says that some work could that Taukbashqe has been preened from its facing the municipality’s department of ect – funded entirely by restart this year if the members of the former dust bath and is now a far lovelier infrastructure. the municipal budget – is place to spend summer leisure time. Green municipal assembly voted for a budget to Nevertheless, in the park, there are now be allocated to the work. Other elements, spaces are a precious commodity in more families enjoying the shade on a such as a pond which will be created as a a collaboration between Prishtina, where so many residents live in sunny day, children playing between the habitat for birds, some of the paths, and a apartments and there is only the City Park trees, runners using the newly leveled fence to go around the park, are included in the departments of urban in town amid the dazzlingly paved stretch- paths, love affairs budding between stu- es of public square and the crowded side- a tender which has been agreed and work dents on the benches. Hopefully the munic- walks. Because of its rarity, the dappled should start by 15 June. It remains to be planning, of public servic- ipality will be inspired to do more: create a shade of Taukbashqe is valuable to the city seen whether and when the pile of dirt will pond and waterbirds will find it; create a despite the small area it covers, and the be removed. es, of culture, youth and quality park environment and city-dwellers municipality has invested to make it a A bigger issue for the park, and for qual- sport, of the environment space worthy of the name of the ‘Magic ity of life in the neighbourhood as a whole, will kick off their shoes and enjoy the feel- Park’ amusements often used as a refer- is the river, now running through newly ing of grass between their toes. and of infrastructure. Like ence point for the neighbourhood. faced banks, attractively laid with stones The ‘magic’ transformation is a good set in concrete. Prishtina - the ‘city without Elizabeth Gowing is a founder of The a depressing metaphor example of what can be done when munic- a river’, serenaded in the song of that name Ideas Partnership, a Kosovan NGO using ipal funds are targeted at improving the by the Kosovan group Gjurmet in the ’80s – volunteer power to tackle educational, cul- for collaboration, if you environment for citizens. The plan for the is thirsty for the wildlife habitats and the tural heritage and environmental chal- area included not only new paths, but a aesthetic benefits of flowing water. There lenges. She is also the author of Travels in walk along one of running trail, a children’s play area, light- are in fact two rivers with courses through Blood and Honey; becoming a beekeeper in ing, a public toilet, and expanded parking the city, but between the 1950s and the 1970s Kosovo (2011) and Edith and I; on the trail of Taukbashqe newly faced Y nearby. both the Vellusha and the Prishtevka were an Edwardian traveler in Kosovo – M But Taukbashqe’s current state is also a covered up for most of their length. It’s www.edith-and-i.com – published this paths, you’ll find that it C case study of the risks that come from dif- tempting to dream of what could have been month. She can be reached on theideaspart- K ferent municipal departments having to if the rivers had been left open as a focal [email protected]/ runs out in a pile of dirt. international June 7 - 20, 2013 21 What Happened to Afghanistan Massacre Investigation? Four years ago, Obama promised to probe prisoner killings. There are few signs that anything has happened.

by Cora Currier, ProPublica

n his first year in office, President Barack Obama Ipledged to "collect the facts" on the death of hundreds, possibly thousands, of Taliban prisoners of war at the hands of U.S.-allied Afghan forces in late 2001. Almost four years later, there’s no sign of progress. When asked by ProPublica about the state of the investiga- tion, the White House says it is still "looking into" the apparent massacre. Yet no facts have been released and it’s far from clear what, if any, facts have been col- lected. Human rights researchers who originally uncovered the case say they’ve seen no evidence of an active investigation. The deaths happened as Taliban forces were collapsing in the wake of the American invasion of Afghanistan. Thousands of Taliban prisoners had surren- dered to the forces of a U.S.-sup- ported warlord named Abdul Rashid Dostum. The prisoners, say survivors and other witnesses, Fifteen bodies were found at a mass grave in Dasht-e-Leili, Afghanistan. (Photos/Physicians for Human Rights) were stuffed into shipping contain- ers without food or water. Many 2009 that the Bush administration, A White House spokeswoman service member participation, Leili is no longer a priority. died of suffocation. Others were sensitive to criticism of a U.S. ally, told ProPublica that there has knowledge, or presence. A broader Dostum still holds considerable allegedly killed when Dostum’s had discouraged investigations indeed been some kind of review – review of the facts is beyond sway in Northern Afghanistan, men shot at the containers. into the incident. In response, and that it’s still ongoing: "At the D.O.D.’s purview." That initial though he has fallen in and out of A few months later, a mass grave Obama told CNN that "if it appears direction of the President, his review has never been made pub- favor with the U.S. and with was found nearby in Dasht-i-Leili, that our conduct in some way sup- national security team is continu- lic. Afghan president Hamid Karzai. a desert region of northern ported violations of the laws of ing its work looking into the Dasht- At this point, say advocates, an The Times recently reported Afghanistan. war, I think that we have to know i-Leili massacre." She declined to investigation should address not Dostum is one of several former The New York Times reported in about that." provide more details. just the question of U.S. involve- warlords to whom Karzai passes "This seems quite half-hearted ment, but also what the U.S. did in on thousands of dollars in cash he and cynical," said Susannah the years that followed to foster receives from the CIA each month. Sirkin, director of international accountability. (We were unable to reach Dostum A History of Inaction policy at Physicians for Human "I’m not saying Dostum ordered himself for this story.) Rights, the group that discovered these people killed, and I’m not The Obama administration has Nov. 24, 2001: As Taliban forces surrender to the U.S.-backed the grave site in 2002 and since saying U.S. troops participated," been cool toward him in recent Northern Alliance in Afghanistan, several thousand prisoners of then has pushed for an investiga- said Stefan Schmitt, a forensic spe- years, saying ahead of war are transported in shipping containers. Survivors and witness- tion. cialist with Physicians for Human Afghanistan’s elections in 2009 that es later allege as many as 2,000 prisoners died -- some suffocated The group sent a letter to the Rights. "All I’m saying is there are the U.S. "maintains concerns about while others were shot -- and are buried in a grave site at Dasht-i- president in December 2011, the hundreds if not thousands of peo- any leadership role for Mr. Dostum Leili. tenth anniversary of the incident. ple that went missing. In a country in today's Afghanistan." February 2002: Physicians for Human Rights visits the graves at In a follow-up meeting some that’s looking to have peace, to be Back in 2001, Dostum was far Dasht-i-Leili. That spring, under the auspices of the U.N., PHR con- months later, senior State under the rule of law, you need to more important to the U.S. He was ducts an initial forensic investigation of the graves, exhuming a Department officials told answer these questions." a U.S. proxy, fighting the Taliban as number of recent remains that indicated death by suffocation. Physicians for Human Rights that Initially excited by Obama’s part of the Northern Alliance. Spring and Summer 2002: Media reports detail eyewitness alle- there was nothing new to share. statement, researchers with American Special Forces famously gations about deaths in the containers. "This has been a hot potato that Physicians for Human Rights pep- rode on horseback alongside Fall 2002: U.S., U.N. and Afghan authorities say that a full investi- no one wanted to deal with, and pered the administration with Dostum’s men, advising and call- gation is warranted, but none gets off the ground. now it’s gone cold," said Norah their findings. But the response ing in airstrikes. The alliance took 2006: Satellite photos show disturbances at the grave sites at Dasht- Niland, former director of human was "murky at best," said Sirkin. the city of Mazar-i-Sharif from the i-Leili. rights for the United Nations in "We were never very clear on Taliban in one of the first major 2008: Researchers and reporters find empty pits where graves had Afghanistan. who within the administration victories of the invasion in early once been. Human rights advocates have was delegated the task," she said. November 2001. July 10, 2009: The New York Times reports that Bush administra- long said the responsibility for a Current and former administra- The shipping container deaths tion officials had discouraged U.S. government investigations into comprehensive investigation lies tion officials interviewed by occurred a few weeks later, when Dasht-i-Leili. with the U.S., because American ProPublica couldn’t say which Taliban fighters who had surren- July 13, 2009: Obama tells CNN, "I've asked my national security forces were allied with Dostum and agency or department had the job. dered to the Northern Alliance at team to...collect the facts for me that are known." his men at the time. Surviving pris- Sirkin and others eventually the city of Kunduz were en route Early 2010: The Senate Foreign Relations Committee begins an oners have also claimed that resigned themselves to the fact that to a prison about 200 miles away. inquiry into Dasht-i-Leili. The scope and result of that investiga- Americans were present when the Obama, in his televised remarks, That winter, Physicians for tion is not clear. containers were loaded, though had not specifically called for a full Human Rights discovered a mass May 2013: A White House spokesperson says that the president's that’s never been corroborated. investigation. With the U.S. now grave at Dasht-i-Leili. "national security team is continuing its work looking into the A Pentagon spokesman told withdrawing from Afghanistan, Dasht-i-Leili massacre." ProPublica that the Department of many observers say it’s no sur- Defense "found no evidence of U.S. prise that investigating Dasht-i- continues page 22 22 June 7 - 20, 2013 international

from page 21 this," said Prosper. staffers could not provide details But the newly installed Afghan on Kiriakou’s efforts. Physicians A preliminary investigation government had neither the will for Human Rights says contact exhumed several bodies that nor the resources for a thorough from the committee fizzled out appeared to have died from suffo- investigation, and U.N. officials within a year. cation. Stories began to circulate said they could not guarantee secu- New attention to Dasht-i-Leili in the region and Newsweek and rity. Witnesses and others involved had also been sparked within the others published detailed accounts in Dasht-i-Leili had already been U.N.’s mission in Afghanistan and from surviving prisoners, truck killed and harassed,according to the organization’s High drivers, and other witnesses. State Department memos. Commission on Human Rights, for- The Times also reported that an A declassified Defense mer U.N. officials said. FBI agent interviewing new Department memo from February However, Peter Galbraith, who Afghan arrivals to Guantanamo 2003 indicates the U.S. was not pro- was the U.N.’s deputy special repre- Bay prison in early 2002 heard con- viding security for an investiga- sentative for Afghanistan until the sistent accounts of prisoners tion. The memo’s author, Marshall fall of 2009, told ProPublica that "stacked like cordwood," and death Billingslea, told the Times in 2009, "an investigation would’ve by suffocation and shooting. When "I did get the sense that there was required a push from the U.S. It the agent pressed for an investiga- little appetite for this matter with- required the cooperation of the tion, he was reportedly told it was in parts of D.O.D." (Billingslea did coalition forces." (Neither the U.N. not his responsibility. not respond to our requests for mission in Afghanistan nor the Dostum has said that he would comment.) office of the High Commissioner welcome an investigation. He said As the years went by, no one on Human Rights responded to our that some 200 prisoners had indeed from the U.S., the U.N., or requests for comment.) died in transit, but that the deaths Afghanistan guarded the grave The mass grave at Dasht-i-Leili were unintentional, the result of site. In 2008, reporters and is one of many left unexamined in battlefield wounds. researchers found empty pits Afghanistan. In late 2011, the Other estimates put the toll where they had once found human nation’s Independent Human much higher. remains. Satellite photos obtained Rights Commission concluded a A widely cited State Department later showed what appeared to be massive report on decades of war memo from fall 2002 said that "the earth-moving equipment in the crimes and human rights abuses, actual number may approach desert in 2006. Locals told which reportedly documents 180 2,000." McClatchy that Dostum’s men had mass graves across the country. Around the same time, then- dug up the graves. The region near Dasht-i-Leili is Secretary of State Colin Powell After Obama pledged in 2009 to also believed to hold the remains tasked his Ambassador for War look into the case, a parallel of civilians massacred by the Aerial views of the mass graves at Dasht-e-Leili. Crimes, Pierre-Richard Prosper, inquiry was begun the next year in Taliban in 1998, in what Human with looking into Dasht-i-Leili. the Senate Foreign Relations Rights Watch called "one of the reportedly discouraged publica- crimes. Prosper told ProPublica that due to Committee, chaired by current single worst examples of killings tion of the report, and the commis- Nader Nadery, the commissioner the U.S. alliance with Dostum, Secretary of State John Kerry. of civilians in Afghanistan's twen- sion has still not made it public. responsible for the report, told Washington felt the U.S. should not The fate of that investigation is ty-year war." In all, the report "It’s going to reopen all the old ProPublica: "I haven’t seen any take the lead in an investigation. also unclear. The lead investigator, named 500 individuals responsible wounds," an American Embassy political or even rhetorical support "We were in the middle of fight- John Kiriakou, was a former CIA for mass killings – some of whom official told the New York Times of investigations into Dasht-i-Leili ing, and we thought we should officer who was caught up in a hold prominent government posi- last year. Afghanistan also recently or any other investigation into keep the lines clear, let someone criminal leak prosecution and is tions. adopted an amnesty law offering past atrocities, from either Bush else, the U.N. or Afghans, handle now in prison. Other Senate American and Afghan officials blanket immunity for past war or Obama." marketing

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