'Ganga Maiya' or Mather Ganges ls a testimony to the immutable undercurrent af Indian thought, spirituality €s philosophy. French writer and photographer,
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rom its source glacier to the delta…no river in the world plays a more important religious, economic, social andF cultural role in the lives of the people than the Ganges. Guided by its mesmerising course, we take a journey along its wonderful and generous waters that bathe the earth and fertilise the hearts of fervent men.
An initiatory journey he Ganga beckons pilgrims from TIndia and the entire world. Leaving the holy city of Haridwar, near the Himalayas, the author, a devout herself, undertook the pilgrimage towards Chardham, the four spiritual centres in Uttaranchal, then onwards to the venerable sources at the glacier yogis. After a brief stopover in Sometimes calm, sometimes of Gaumukh, dominated by the Allahabad, the ancient Prayag, we fervent, the Ganges unfolds her glittering summit Shivaling (6,500m). stayed for a while in Varanasi, the abundant waters in the course of the Descending towards the lowlands, mysterious ‘Kashi’ city of light, four seasons. Her banks are chiselled we followed the destiny of the river entwined by its mazes that have been gracefully in the unpredictable and its tributaries to 'Panchaprayag,’ witness to sacred rites of passage since geographical curves, at times the confluence of five places towards millenniums. Finally we took to the sharpened, narrow and deep and at Rishikesh, the ancient city of road towards Bengal and finally Ganga- others made vast across the Sagar, where the dispersed waters of indomitable expanse. the river merged with the ocean, in the vastness of eternity… The story of Ganga, Bhagirath and Shiva The enchantment of a river anga, the adopted daughter of source of resplendent life, the GLord Brahma, led a carefree life in AGanga has never ceased to svarga loka (heavens), until the inspire hearts in mythical odes, immolation of 60,000 sons of the symbols and in art since the beginning powerful King Sagara, reduced to of humanity. Her celestial origin and cinders by the fire from the third eye of labyrinthine course covers over a the great Sage Kapila enraged for being distance of over 2,700 kilometres. disturbed while in meditation. The Multitudes of pilgrims throng her king, on the verge of becoming the banks at large holy cities, to perform master of the Earth, suddenly lost the ritual bath and pujas. Every peace … Following a long and severe evening, at sunset, thousands of fire penitence to achieve redemption for lamps are set afloat on the river in his forefathers, Bhagirath, the 7th obeisance to the celebrated waters. descendent of King Sagara, invoked Mythically rising from Mount Brahma to grant the cleansing effects Kailash, the fabled residence of Shiva of the Ganga to the Earth, in an effort to the glacier of Gaumukh (3,950m) to put an end to its mortal destiny. the sources of Bhagirathi-Ganga, her Touched by the burning devotion the streams multiply in the Himalayan of Bhagirath, the celestial Goddess valley before descending to irrigate the agreed to go down to Earth. However, Indo-Gangetic plains and later merging Shiva, the supreme yogi, resident of with the delta at the Bay of Bengal. Mount Kailash, blessed by the Gods,
00 INCREDIBLE celebrated by the sages/rishis, was invoked to hold the force of her descent in his chignon. Since then, Ganga runs amok through the hair of Shiva before her impetuous waters touch Earth, to cleanse devotees who come in contact with her.
Yogis, saints and sadhus … Mystic wanderers n India reside exceptional beings Iwho have abandoned ordinary life and the pleasures of material gains on Earth. Following the example of Shiva, who meditated on the summit of Mount Kailash, they devote themselves in body and soul to practices of asceticism and meditation. These beings - saints, sâdhus and yogis - transferred profoundly by alchemy and pranic energy, tie their locks in a huge chignon and wear rudraksha necklace, reminiscent of the supreme ascetic. Attired in saffron or white, one can see these mendicants walking alone with pristine devotion on arid tracks. The most ascetic of mendicants reside in forests and inaccessible caves in the Himalayas. These solitary beings descend on rare occasions’ like the Khumba mela at Allahabad, Haridwar, Ujjain or Nasik, once every 12 years... The tradition of pilgrimage ndia has always had the spiritual Itradition of pilgrimage that every man aspires to undertake at some point in his life, in gratitude to the Gods, to invoke blessings for a desire or in search of spiritual centres. The Himalayas which are fabled residences of the Gods are a favoured destination for spiritual peregrination. Shallow mountain streams become sacred, tirtha, likely to bring an internal transformation of the being. Head towards the Ganga, meditate on Gather water at source and her banks, have a ritual bath, give tradition of kanvad offerings, walk along towards the ertain months are dedicated to source…it provides a spiritual high Crituals and pilgrimages. The and a means to fulfil aspirations and a month of Shravan (mid July to mid dream that is part of an accomplished August) is devoted to a pilgrimage for life for many. Shiva. A tradition invites pilgrims to
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walk to the source of the Ganga and collect the holy water, Gangajal, for their home or village shrines. Over days the pilgrims called kanvadiye walk to the source at Gaumukh and return after collecting the water in cans tied to their waists or on two ends of a stick balancing it on their shoulders. The water from the revered source must never touch earth before being placing it at the shrine.
Haridwar: At the foot of the Himalayas ocated at the foot of the THimalayas, Haridwar or Hardwar is one of the principal holy cities of India. This ancient city is a reference to Hari-Vishnu and Hara-Shiva, both supreme divinities in the Hindu pantheon, as indeed a doorway to the Himalayas, the abode of the Gods. A immense channel for easy access to the Mandakini, one reaches Alakananda point of departure on the pilgrim’s sacred water. quickly to arrive at Badrinath (3,096m) route, to the source of the Ganga! … During certain festivals destined by with its colourful temple devoted to Many temples dedicated to Vishnu the lunar calendar, such as the Khumba Lord Vishnu. A pilgrimage to the and Ganga were built at the edge of the mela, tens of thousands of pilgrims highest reaches of Uttaranchal is pure river for veneration, including an troop into Haridwar for the ritual bath. enchantment for the heart and the Each evening, the sunset is celebrated spirit. with the enchanting Aarti at Harki Pauri. Gaumukh – The call of the Chardhams or high spiritual places sources… in the Himalayas rom Gangotri, where the imilar to the four saintly places Finterstitial waters of Bhagirathi- Sestablished by the revered Adi- Ganga resound, 27 kilometres remain Shankaracharya, saint and philosopher to be traversed for Gaumukh by an at four cardinal points of India, there altitude path, where the scenic beauty exist four places of sacred importance, is spellbinding. A stopover for the chardham, in the Himalayas. In night is a must in the splendid valley of affiliation to the sacred river these are Bhojbhasa at 3,800 meters, dominated all located at more than 3,000 meters: by magisterial white peaks. Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Once again ascending towards the Badrinath. source, under the watchful diamantine Tradition demands that one start peak, Shivaling which dominates at their pilgrimage at the temple to the 6,542 meters, pilgrims have installed west, Yamunotri and finish the circle small sanctuaries dedicated to Shiva. going eastwards to Badrinath. Pilgrims The path is precarious and almost non- commence their voyage at Yamunotri existent. Suddenly, in the distance the (3,200m), the revered source of the glacier appears. We advanced, with Yamuna, then onwards to Gangotri at bated breath to contemplate closely, 3,048m. Finally one must hit the road the birth of the perennial water that again to reach the high altitude temple spouts out at more than 3,900 meters dedicated to Shiva, Kedarnath from the `Mouth of the cow’, at (3,584m). Leaving the valley of Gaumukh… Bhagirathi-Ganga is born!
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The junction of five places or combines with Mandakini at the foot Bengal. Since Vedic times, the wise Panchaprayag of the temple dedicated to Shiva- and renowned rishis took meditative eaving Badrinath under an Rudra. Finally, at Deoprayag, the fifth residence in the neighbouring foliage Labundant monsoon rain, we again junction, Ganga takes its maiden name of mysterious forests. Their disciples went down the narrow valley for the first time, the alliance of lived in ashrams close to their eminent prodigiously chiselled by the Bhagirathi and Alakanada. Hence, masters to be initiated into the Alakananda. At strategic points of the Ganga hurls towards the plains in a extraordinary thousand-year-old valley one crosses immense cascades, powerful torrent. exercise, yoga. where Alakananda comes in confluence Ayurveda, the science of longevity, with the water of five rivers going Rishikesh: The ancient city of the was taught and practised here by down the Himalayas, the wise Rishis’ and yogis medical experts who battled all evils panchaprayag. ith the strong and rich surge of Vishnu Prayag is the first junction Wwater recently gathered of the where the waters of the Dhauli Ganga pristine melted snow, the Ganga joins, then the rivers Nandakini and deploys her torrent in the valley of Pindar Ganga come together at Nanda Rishikesh. From here onwards the Prayag and Karna Prayag, the last river matures into her controlled self, junction. making her way graciously towards her In Rudraprayag, Alakananda union with the Ocean at the Bay of
with rare minerals and secret herbs from the Himalayas, a science that is esteemed today. At sunset, close to the bridge Lakshman Jhula, the geometric temple with a vermilion exterior is reflected in blue waters of the declining sun. Balancing on the large suspension Ram Jhula, a bridge anchored in the faith of Ram, many throng the evening Aarti, not far from the Parmanath Ashram. At the foot of the Ganga, where Shiva sat on a resplendent throne, lights and arabesques of scintillating gold, music and devotional songs (bhajans) unite hearts during the mystical night …
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Allahabad, at the confluence conducted sacred rites on a boat in the pilgrims went down the stairs for the of the three rivers middle of this rare geographical ritual bath and performed the most nciently known as Prayag, marvel. sacred oblations and rites. The AAllahabad is renowned for the enchantment of a vibrating river as with khumba-mela, held every 12 years, the Benares-Varanasi, holy city par the amber rays of dawn playing on its last which was held in 2000, is a festival excellence waters and in the evening the crystalline determined by planetary positions and he supreme confluence at sound of the lamp fire and water ... has immense cosmic dimensions. The TVaranasi, the culminating waters From around the world, enthusiastic festival (mela) commemorates a of the holy rivers … the ancient Kashi, men and women join together in a mythical event, where at the time of resplendent city of the lights, the echo collective homage to the Ganga. the churning of the Ocean, devas of prayers in ode to the clamours of (Gods) disputed with the asuras Shiva and Ganga resound… In the Ganga: an apotheosis of the rites (demons) over the pot (khumba) that lanes of this most ancient city of the he celestial Ganga, subsequently contained the nectar of immortality world, 1,001 songs celebrate the name Tthe River of the World, (amrita) which emanated from the of the Master of the metamorphoses, `Lokanadi,’ pours its sacred waters in a churning. The temptress skill of `Om Namah Shivaya’ and at the heart predestined gesture orchestrated in the Vishnu in the guise of Mohini brought of the labyrinth in the large golden trilogy of the Hindu pantheon… triumph to the Gods who became temple of Vishwanath, is enthroned the where Brahma creates the world, immortal. immense and sacrosanct Jyotirlingam, Vishnu preserves it and Shiva Allahabad is also renowned for the emblem of Shivas’ luminous essence. transforms it...The worthy waters of convergence of the three rivers In Varanasi the vast river surpasses the Ganga that reverberates in the Yamuna, Ganga and the mythical its spiritual importance and during the spiritual imagination of India is forever Saraswati, below the grounds surface. monsoon its passionately swollen waters associated with all propitious At this juncture one fervently know no limits … On its many ghats, ceremonies etched in the astral
00 INCREDIBLE INDIA H SEPTEMBER 2006 dream lands constellations. Each year towards full moon in November, Kartik Purnima, bedecked in marigold garlands Varanasi competes with none other than Indralok, the splendid heaven of Indra, the King of the Gods. In accordance with the scriptures, Hindus must achieve 16 rites, samskaras, none of which would be complete without the sacred water of the holy river. The inception of a child, birth, passage infancy rites, education, marriage and finally the passage into the other realm, the Ganga associates herself at all moments in the destined alchemy of human existence.
Ganga Sagar: The river’s nuptial with the vast Ocean (Sagara) he waters of the Ganga, at the Tverge of its union with the Ocean, were heralded in the past by the triumphant conch of Bhagirath, where his 60,000 Offerings of fruits and ancestors found coconut. redemption. In this vast and Offerings of the sacred tumultuous delta, the plants, tulasi (basil) for Vishnu ramified waters of the and the trifoliate bel for Shiva Ganges fans out to receive … Saintly herbs durva and the powerful streams of the kusha touched by the Amrita… Brahmaputra, consequently Swirls of heady incenses that called Yamuna. Coming full permeate senses … circle, towards an ordained Twined garlands of scented destiny! sandal, rudraksh seeds as rosary Many a valley were beads… crossed, many curves forged Offerings of mantras and and adopted, the fertilising sacred piety, mudra gestures and fecundate river brings that beseech the deity… bountiful splendour as she irrigates a One offers the sacred symbols of Offering of vermilion on Ajna vast span, changing many lives before nuptials, sindur-chubri, (a small basket chakra, frontal force of sublime arriving at the penultimate stage, the of vermillion) to the river waters that energy… Ganga Sagar, where she blends with unfailingly blends and unfolds in a Oblations of sweets to appease the the waters of the Bay of Bengal. Each white wave towards the horizon. Gods, blessed food the devotee’s year, in mid-January, at the time of On the dark sands, our ephemeral Prasad… Makar Samkranti, when the sun starts footprints seal the vow of union. Earth, water, fire, air and ether … its northward ascent, an important the elements combined. festival spreads out. Pilgrims come in Offerings to Ganga Agni, the sacrificial pyre, the thousands to partake in the ritual bundance of offerings to the O messenger to the heavens above, bath in the sea and to pay tributes to Aabundant river…garlands of lamp in swirls of smoke transport our forged the conjugal waters, the marriage of the scintillating fire! prayers… resplendent Ganga with the vast Offerings to the Ganga, baskets of a Our fervent words and pristine expanse of the Ocean, as she embarks million flowers: red, yellow, vermilion thoughts… in the munificence of her last journey. or white, colours all of radiant delight. May all these offerings to the
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