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Uttarakhand (Uttaranchal)

Uttarakhand (Uttaranchal)

(UTTARANCHAL) 443 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Corbett Reserve (offering or prayers) with or prayers) with (offering ( p471 ) in the shadow of ) in the shadow of p471 (

of the Flowers Hem Kund & Valley Mana village Mana village Mana

Hem Kund Hem Kund ( p474 ) in the ) in the p474 ( ( p445 ) to remote, ) to remote, p445 ( ( p472 ) Valley of Flowers Valley trek Nainital ( p468 ) and ( p450 ) or ( p459 ), the capital of the ), the yoga capital of the p459 ( the Himalayan foothills ), a mosaic of natural colour, then visit charming p470 ( Mussoorie ( p470 ) to remote temples, holy holy temples, ) pilgrimages to remote p470 ( lakes and sacred rivers Reserve Corbett Tiger Rishikesh universe pristine and passes, surrounded by pristine glaciers and passes, surrounded by the mightiest mountain range on the planet

into the sublime Trek Cool off in a scenic Raj-era in Scout for from atop an in Get your asanas and chakras sorted at Join the Join Grab a backpack and

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „

The British, fleeing the oppressive heat of the in summer, built enduring hill stations heat of the plains in summer, British, fleeing the oppressive The This is a region where nature takes control – rolling forest-clad hills, snow-topped 6000m takes forest-clad control – rolling nature where is a region This

your interest, square for square, this is one of ’s richest regions for travellers. this is one of India’s richest regions for square, square your interest, most foreign tourists for its , yoga, meditation and all-round spirituality. Whatever its ashrams, yoga, meditation and all-round spirituality. Whatever tourists for most foreign as well as pilgrims on the Char Dham and Hem Kund routes. But it’s Rishikesh that draws Kund routes. as well as pilgrims on the Char Dham and Hem Himalayan views. Further north, the high Himalaya Further mountaineers and skiersHimalayan attracts trekkers, views. still exist. Mussoorie and Nainital have a real holiday atmosphere year-round and distant year-round holiday atmosphere a real still exist. Mussoorie and Nainital have in the Himalayan churches and boarding schools that foothills with Raj-style houses, hotels, plains via the significant centres of , Rishikesh and . pilgrimage centres plains via the significant River, which rises at Gaumukh which rises Ganges River, in the far north, its way down to the winds peaks, rivers, waterfalls, lakes and glaciers. The state is 90% hills and 80% forest. The sacred sacred The 80% forest. is 90% hills and state waterfalls, The peaks, rivers, lakes and glaciers. National Parks. If you get your timing right, it’s all possible in Uttarakhand. If you get your timing right, it’s National Parks. stations, or ride an elephant and takestations, or ride an elephant for tigers at Corbett or Rajaji your camera on a hunt thousands of devotees on the at Haridwar. Put your feet up and relax in Raj-era up and relax hill your feet Put on the ghats at Haridwar. thousands of devotees temples near the source of Ganges and Rivers, or take Rivers, the source of Ganges and Yamuna near temples one day, trekking in the shadow of the Himalayas the next.to ancient Walk with pilgrims be taking in Rishikesh yoga classes at an the Ganges rafting down and white-water For a small state, Uttarakhand amount. You can For a small state, in an incredible Uttaranchal) packs (formerly (Uttaranchal) (Uttaranchal) Uttarakhand UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) itional name meaning‘northern country’. atrad- renamedwas officially Uttarakhand, taranchal wasformed in2000.In2007thestate aratist movement, thepresent-day of state Ut- Pradesh,butfollowingavocalsep- with Uttar in 1817. of theregion as part of theTreaty of Sigauli prompting theBritishtostep inandtake most first thekingdomof Kumaon,thenGarwhal, attacked Gurkhas 18th centurytheNepalese KuturyiandChand rajas.the Guptas, Inthe ties have dominated theregion, including thecenturiesvariousdynas- districts. Over Garwhal (inthewest)andKumaon(east) consistsof theculturallydistinct Uttarakhand 444 History Haridwar Bijnar

Tons National Park To (250km) Dhanaura UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) Kempty Falls Chandpur After Independencetheregion wasmerged Govind Mussoorie Dehra Dun Yamuna Lakhmandal

Purola River Sankri (Saur) Chatti UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••History

Khankhal Dharasu Ganges Airport Grant Jolly Nihtaur Janki Chatti Dunda River Barkot ὈὈ ὈὈ ὄὄὄ ὄ Dhalnotri Chilla Taluka Sahanpur Rishikesh National P RADESH

Rajaji Narendranagar

Osla Park G ARHWL Bhagirathi U TAR

Deoprayag Seohara Dun Har Ki Rv Tehri Malla Kalinda Parvat

Dodi

Tal S i w a l i k k i l a w i S Jamdar Glacier Kalagarh Bhatwari Kathur Lamkhaga Pass Thati Alakna Ghamsali (4590m) (6630m) Mahla Jaonli Lansdowne ὄὄ ὄὄὄ Trijuginarayan (5284m) Sonprayag

Reservoir R a n g e g n a R nda Bhojpur Dhikala Gangotri (6970m) Rv Kedarnath Kedar To Moradabad(15km); Tal Tiger Reserve Ma nd Jhirna Bijrani Gate Delhi (215km) Kashipur

Corbett akini

Bhojbasa Gaurikund

Rv Glacier Adi Badri Gaumukh Gangotri Tapovan Madmaheshwar Gopeshwar Amdanda Chaukhutiya Anasya Gate Ramnagar Devi Dhangarhi Gate ὄὄὄ ὄὄ (6558m) Kosi

Tharali River Chamoli office, but themainresponsibility forthe Tourism Most towns have anUttarakhand Information of likely temperatures. Look at thealtitudetoget anidea any season. weather isfickleandcanvarygreatly during block roads.As regions inallmountainous the when themonsoonrainsarrive andlandslides November, withabreak inJulyandAugust runs fromApriltolate October orearly north themaintrekking andpilgrimseason so make sure yourroomhasheating.Further freezing cold,withsnowfalllikely inJanuary, wintersthough (DecembertoFebruary) are canbevisitedThe hillstations allyear,al- Climate Nainital Kuari Pass

Mana (3640m)

Ramni

Katarmal Rv Saraswati

Kausani Gomti Garur Auli (7756m)

Kamet

Valley ofFlowers

Pindar

Kosi

National Park

Gola Rv Ghangaria (7120m)

(210km) To Delhi K UMAON River Trisul Naukuchiyatal Lata Baijnath Takula Nanda Khat ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ (7272m) (6611m) Mana River Kund Hem Binsar Bare Mangtoli Sanctuary (6800m) Kund Roop Sitargani Nanak Sagar Sallya Malari Kanda C HINA Sundardhunga Song T IBE 40km 20miles 0 0 (7816m) Banbassa Nanda Devi Glacier Phurkiya Nanda DeviEast (6860m) To Nepalganj(200km); Kathmandu (600km) (7430m) Ramganga Glacier Milam

River Milam

ὄ ὄ lonelyplanet.com

Sarda Mahendranagar Munsyari Burphu Glacier River River N EPAL Chotta Kailash Kali

River

(6191m)

Darma

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) 445 and and (www

(snack bars) (snack bars) Trekking in in Trekking (www.gmvnl.com)

Dhabas Survey of India (pilgrimage) trails and trails and (pilgrimage) . GMVN organise all-inclusive treks treks all-inclusive organise For a more in-depth cover- For a more (www.kmvn.org)

( p470 ) Nanda Devi Sanctuary ( p471 ) p471 Nanda Devi Sanctuary ( Gangotri ( p467 ) Yamunotri ( p468 ) ) p468 ( Har ki Dun Valley Kuari Pass ( p471 ) ) p471 ( Kuari Pass of the Flowers & Hem Kund Valley Pindari Glacier ( p483 ) ) p484 ( „ „ „ „ TOP TREKS TOP TREKS „ „ „ „

Government-run Government-run season (October to May). Rishikesh is the is the Rishikesh season (October to May). ) p463 rafting trips ( main place to organise trips, also arrange in Joshimath but agencies usually starting Rudraprayag. Kayaking from a recom- is also gaining a foothold and there’s ). p463 ( mended outfit in Rishikesh ganise your own trek – guides costs around costs around – guides ganise your own trek Rs 500 and porters Rs 500 a day, cooks Rs on for hire available 300. Ponies may also be On some treks. a guide is not necessary, on popular treks it is recommended treks remote but on more the local and to support reasons for safety any trek make economy. Porters subsistence maps Trekking enjoyable. easier and more from the available are .surveyofindia.gov.in) RAFTING & KAYAKING White-water rafting on the fast-flowing Gan- is fast growing in Rivers and Alaknanda ges companies or more popularity, with a dozen rafting camps during the setting up riverside cheap, basic accommodation is available in available is accommodation basic cheap, guesthouses,private GMVN ashrams and bungalows and dormitory or KMVN tourist huts. Camping option and porters is another to hire. not expensive are serve instant and vegetables up rice, chapatis, noodles. KMVN pri- are but there for Rs 1500 to 3000 a day, the same much companies offering trek vate a day depending thing for Rs 1000 to 4000 food and and the level of on group numbers service However, it’s easy to or- required. the Indian Himalaya the age of treks, see treks, Lonely Planet’s of age Kumaon Man- covering the covering Garhwal Mandal , which covers covers , which •• Activities (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND (KMVN; www.kmvn.org)

(GMVN; www.gmvnl.com)

to November; in lowlands (ie Rishikesh, (ie Rishikesh, in lowlands to November; Corbett and Rajaji National Parks) to March November Kumaoni

to July and September When to go: May 51,125 sq km Area: Dehra Dun Capital: languages: , Main and Garhwali Population: 8,479,562 Population:

„ „ „ „ FAST FACTS FAST „ Clothes and equipment can be purchased The best (safest) time to trek is either the time to trek The best (safest)

or from GMVN. On these treks and trails and trails or from GMVN. On these treks new or secondhand or hired from local shops new or secondhand or hired The Char Dham temples and other high-The Char Dham temples November close (late in winter altitude treks to March). roads to the trailheads and cause long delays. premonsoon period (mid-May until the end period (mid-May premonsoon the postmonsoon season June), or of (mid- September In July and Au- to mid-October). problem is landslides that cut gust the major der, you can tackle challenging Pindari or Pindari or der, you can tackle challenging Milam Glacier treks. Viceroy Lord Curzon. In the eastern Kumaon Viceroy Lord Curzon. In the eastern bor- nudging up against the Tibetan region, tallest peak, and follows in the footsteps of of tallest peak, and follows in the footsteps the magical Nanda Devi has Sanctuary, which allowed in walkers a limit on the number of brings Pass the Kuari Trekking at one time. Nanda Devi, India’s secondsublime views of finest and most accessible trekking country. In finest and most accessible trekking the Garhwal district, the Char Dham pilgrim transport to ) mean that public p468 ( routes is excellent. But you can also get many treks away from the crowds and head to spectacu- or ki Dun Valley Har places like larly remote of Kumaon or tackling a 3500m mountainof India’s pass, Uttarakhand some of provides TREKKING TREKKING walking throughWhether the hills and forests Activities Activities eastern Kumaon district. The two manage Kumaon district. The two manage eastern tourist bungalows throughout a network of the state. the western Garhwal district; and Garhwal the western dal Vikas Nigam region’s tourism rests with the tourism rests region’s Vikas Nigam lonelyplanet.com UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) hour onmost roads. Don’t expect tocover more than 25kman to landslides,especially after themonsoon. driverimpatient andinsane – andare subject you’re onabusbeingdriven byaparticularly totravelfrightening on– especiallywhen comfort. you canhire thewholevehicle andtravel in bus ride. Pay 10timestheshare-taxi rate and They charge more slightly thantheequivalent don’t leave untilfull(or atleastjam-packed). the nexttownortransporthub,butusually customers inthedirection onthehighway of road junctionsandbusroutes. Theytoutfor towns andvillages inthehillstoimportant linkingremote thestate, crisscrosses jeeps addition, avastnetworkof crowded share intheHimalayaformostofdeep theyear. In pilgrim routes, theyruntovery remote areas of thepopular Because around Uttarakhand. areold buses themainmeansof travelling are accessiblebytrain,tough and Ramnagar Dehra Dun,Haridwar,Although Rishikesh Getting Around some less-touristed ashrams ( p462 ). dozens of yogacentres. Haridwar alsohas atoneofashram orjustturnuptoclasses Rishikesh ( p462 ), where inan youcanstay areYoga andmeditation bigbusinessin YOGA &MEDITATION improving. (January to March) andtheinfrastructure is lift andoneropetow,thesnowisreliable asmallresortAlthough withonlyonechair- math inthenorthernGarwhaldistrict. India’s premier skiresort isAuli,nearJoshi- SKIING 446 Some of roadsare thehairpinmountain converge and give demonstrations and lectures. converge andgivedemonstrationslectures. Nanda Devi FairNanda Devi Shivaratri YogaFestivalInternational Mela Magh Sakrantiday Makar UTTARAKHAND IN FESTIVALS from outlyingvillages. a picturesque riverside cave temple on the outskirts ofDehraDun. cavetempleontheoutskirts riverside a picturesque goddess aroundandwatchdancingotherculturalshows. 12 years during the mega Kumbh Mela the town is packed outwithpilgrims. thetownispacked themegaKumbhMela 12 yearsduring isheld,andevery sixyearstheArdhKumbhMela thishugeannualreligious fair;every during soul-cleansing Ganges UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) •• (usually Mar; Tapkeshwar (usuallyMar; Temple, opposite andstallsat ) Afestival celebratedinstylewithcarnivalrides (Jan &Feb; (Jan Haridwar, p454 ) Hundreds thanusualcometobathe inthe ofthousandsmore pilgrims (Sep; Almora, (Sep; p480 paradetheimageof fair,thousandsofdevotees thisfive-day ) During (Jan; Uttarkashi, Uttarkashi, (Jan; p467 intotown onpalanquinsandcarried imagesare bornealoft ) Religious (2-7 Feb; Rishikesh, (2-7Feb; Rishikesh, p459 ) Yogaandmeditationmastersfromaroundtheworld Rd branchisaboveCaféCoffee Day. 8pm); brant Tibetan communityandenergetic vibe. is worthastopforitslively Paltan bazaar,vi- travellers merely ButDehra pass Dun through. Mussoorie are bothonlyanhouraway,most congested city,andconsideringRishikesh and rice andtea gardenshasmorphedintoahectic, of India. the Survey Academy, theWildlife Institute of Indiaand theIndianMilitary Institutesearch Museum, the Britishleftbehind–huge Forest Re- isbestknownfortheinstitutions Uttarakhand withamoderate of climate,Blessed thecapital % DUN DEHRA accept foreign credit cards. cheques andcurrency andhave ATMs that Rdexchange onRajpur Banks travellers MONEY Doon CollegeHospital MEDICAL SERVICES i-way h Cyber Park ACCESSINTERNET Natraj Booksellers English BookDepot BOOKSHOPS Information Singh Rd) Bond. books andlocalauthorRuskin local & 3-8pmMon-Sat)Specialisesinecology,spirituality, attached. café booksandmaps,Barista 8.30pm) CDs,trekking What wasonceagreen townof andpleasant

10.30am-8pm) 0135 /pop527,859elev700m

Rajpur Rd Hotel Grand (nearclocktower;perhrRs15; (perhrRs25; (Gandhi Rd;perhrRs25; (Gandhi (17 Rajpur Rd; (17Rajpur (15 Rajpur Rd; (15Rajpur ( % h 2760330; General Mahadev Mahadev 2760330; General 8am-10pm) The Rajpur 8am-10pm) TheRajpur h h lonelyplanet.com 10.30am-1.30pm 9.30am- h 8am-

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) )

a 447 has a 2749595; . At over . At over

% ( 9am-5pm) , dedicated to the , dedicated h

( 2626026; 64 Gandhi Rd; d Rs 9.30am-1pm & 2.15-5.15pm 2627387; 37 General Mahadev % 2749990; 97 Rajpur Rd) h ( %

2657776; www.hotelrelax-aketa

( Neatly furnished, comfort- ) 2728041; 1 Raja Rs 500/600, Rd; s/d from % ( % a Buddha Statue 2621544; Haridwar Rd; s Rs 200-300, d Rs

( Great Stupa %

( Hotel Ajanta Continental for Rs 300. % ( museum

The best of an average bunch of cheap cheap of bunch an average The best of This reasonable budget option set budget back This reasonable which covers local rocks, glaciers and local rocks, glaciers covers which Hotel Milan Palace Hotel Relax Hotel Saurab a good deal. All rooms have hot water and TV, hot water a good deal. All rooms have a multicuisine restaurant. and there’s .com; 7 Court Rd; s/d Rs 750/850, with AC Rs 950/1100; cosy the rooms are hotel, Although a large TVenough with flowery bedspreads, and some with balcony. ming pool at 101 Rajpur Road) Sleeping Hotel Meedo 300-400) has a range by the train station,hotels Meedo TV rooms but all have neglected and pri- of Restaurant hot water). bathroom (bucket vate and bar next door. 400-600) from the main road has clean rooms with TV and helpful staff.and hot water Rd, Gandhi just off this hotel, able rooms make GREAT STUPA & BUDDHA STATUE STATUE & BUDDHA STUPA GREAT Dun is home to a around Dehra The region Buddhist community. Just thriving Tibetan in , the Min- centre the south of and college large boasts a drolling Monastery the five-storey world’s tallest60m it is claimed to be the stupa display- rooms and contains shrine a seriesof the art. Nearby, murals and Tibetan ing relics, 35m-high gold Dalai Lama, garden. is set in a pretty & SWIMMING CLUB HEALTH Hotel Madhuban health club with a sauna, spa, gym and Ayur- Nonguests can use massage. the swim- vedic in 1687, one of his supporters, the Mughal his supporters, one of in 1687, building of the ordered Aurangzeb, emperor, (Sikh in other gurdwaras As the mausoleum. dhal, rice of lunch communal a free temples), who wants to anyone is offered and chapatis it, although a donation is appreciated. GEOLOGY MUSEUM Geology Himalayan of Institute The Wadia has a small Singh Rd; admission free; Mon-Fri) earthquakes. Fossils include a dinosaur eggearthquakes. teeth. and stacks of with AC Rs 1100/1400; dawn- 9.30am- 2759382; (train

h ( h % ( Dun •• Dehra (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND shrine 2653217; 45 Gandhi museum 10am-6pm Mon-Fri,10am-6pm % ( h

(Paltan Bazaar; admission free; Bazaar; admission free; (Paltan is the building itself. Set in 2747898; www.gmvnl.com; 74/1 2747898; www.gmvnl.com; (Rajpur Rd; mausoleum % is made of white marble, and the white is made of 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) The commercial arm 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) ( 7am-9pm) h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Attached to Hotel Drona. 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Attached h

is inside a small dripping cave in a scenic is inside a small dripping cave dawn-dusk) h

Rd; Rajpur Rd; of Uttarakhand Tourism houses and tours and runs rest Garhwal throughout the western treks region. schools and hospitals.schools When Ram Rai died He formed his own Udasi sect formed still runs which He those of Ramthose of Rai’s The entrance four wives. is adorned with colourful murals. Ramgate Rai, the seventh Sikh son of the errant guru, Rai, by his father. was excommunicated Har h four smaller tombs in the garden courtyard are RAM RAI DARBAR RAI DARBAR RAM This unique river to visit another cave shrine where you shrine where to visit another cave river to see to squeeze through a narrow cave have Devi. Vaishno Mata of an image main shrine, and cross the bridge over the over and cross the bridge main shrine, dusk) the Tons Nadi River. setting on the banks of for the the steps Turn left at the bottom of TAPKESHWAR An unusual and popular of trees, and a cross-section of a 700-year-old a 700-year-old and a cross-section of trees, of deodar tree. old-fashioned and dry displays on every as- old-fashioned Highlights in India. include forestry pect of beautiful animal, bird and plant paintings by Afshan Zaidi, exhibits on the medicinal uses elegant cloisters. Six huge halls have rather halls have Six huge elegant cloisters. this red-brick colossus has Mughal towers, colossus has Mughal towers, this red-brick and Roman col- formed arches perfectly by quadrangles edged umns in a series of larger than Buckingham Palace and one of and one of than Buckingham Palace larger the Raj’s grandest buildings. Built between 1924 and 1929, designed by CG Blomfield, a 500-hectare park, the institute – where – where park, the institute a 500-hectare is trained – are officers India’s forest most of www.icfre.org; admission Rs 10, guide Rs 50; admission www.icfre.org; 1pm & 1.30-5.30pm) FOREST RESEARCH INSTITUTE MUSEUM INSTITUTE MUSEUM FOREST RESEARCH this The prime attraction of Sights & Activities Sights & Activities Uttarakhand Tourist Information counter Uttarakhand Tourism office TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION GMVN office POST POST Main office post station; Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book 10am-1pm Sat) 10am-1pm Sat) UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) 448 0 1 km DEHRA DUN 0 0.5 miles TAAHN UTRNHL • DhaDn UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••DehraDun A B C D E F To Tapkeshwar To Mussoorie Temple (1km) SLEEPING DRINKING (34km) Hotel Great Value...... 14 F1 Barista...... 25 E3 Hotel Meedo...... 15 D4 Café Coffee Day...... 26 F2 ONGC Hotel Milan Palace...... 16 D4 Maa Cozy Coffee Lounge...... 27 F1 Harthibarkala 1 Chowk Hotel President...... 17 E3 Polo Bar...... (see 17) Hotel Relax...... 18 E4 Pearson Rd Hotel Saurab...... 19 D4 SHOPPING 28 SARV Handicraft Emporium...... 28 F1 29 27 EATING Survey of India Map Shop...... 29 E1 11 ὈὈὈ9 Ellora's Melting Moments...... 20 E3 14 Kumar Vegetarian & South Indian TRANSPORT 12 3 Restaurant...... 21 E3 Mussoorie Bus Stand...... 30 D4

Kwality...... 22 E3 Old Delhi Bus Stand...... 31 D4 Rajpur 26 Rd Motimahal...... 23 E3 Taxi Stand...... (see 30) Nirula's...... (see 17) Taxi Stand...... (see 31) Yo China...... 24 E2 ὈὈὈ2 Doon School Kaulagarh Rd

24 To (221km) Rd 20 INFORMATION Lytton Rd Cyber Park...... 1 E3 22 Doon College Hospital...... 2 B3 General Mahadev Singh Rd 5 17 English Book Depot...... (see 25) 21 Astley Hall ὈὈὈ ὈGandhi Area GMVN Office...... (see 14) 3 10 25 Park HDFC ATM...... 3 F2 i-way...... (see 16) Parade 2 4 23 i-way...... (see 26) Ground To Sahastradhara (intermittent) 6 (14km) ICICI Bank & ATM...... (see 3) Clock Tower Main Post Office...... 4 E3 Bindal Rao 1 Subhash Rd Natraj Booksellers...... 5 E3 Pedestrianised UTI ATM...... 6 E3 Street UTI ATM...... (see 3) Uttarakhand Tourism Office...... 7 D4

Ὀ Rispana Uttarakhand Tourist Information Kaonli Paltan

Rd 18 Eastern Canal Rd Counter...... 8 D4 Bazaar 31 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 13 7 4 River Forest Research Insititute Museum...... 9 A1 To Clement Town (4km); Geology Museum...... 10 B3 Gandhi Rd Great Stupa & Buddha Statue (4km); 16 19 Hotel Ajanta Continental...... 11 F1 Interstate Bus Terminal (5km); 30 Haridwar Rd Hotel Madhuban...... 12 F2 Wildlife Institute of India (10km); 15 (50km); Train Ram Rai Darbar...... 13 D4 Delhi (260km) Station 8 To Haridwar Share Jeep Stand (4km); Jolly Grant Airport (20km); Haridwar (60km) UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

449 5 (Rs 4) is a popu- Café Coffee Day vikram 2747051; off Rajpur Rd; 2742141; 78 Rajpur Rd; One of the more the more One of %

% ( (

9am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri) h This small store has a great has a great This small store (6 Astley Hall, Rajpur Rd)

(Rajpur Rd; drinks & snacks Rs 10-40)

is another chain place that does great place that does great is another chain 10am-7pm Mon-Sat)

Survey of India Map Shop but virtually traffic-free The congested Polo Bar Barista For more bus details, see the table, p450 . p450 bus details, seeFor more the table, TAXI A taxi costs Rs 400. A officially to Mussoorie and both taxi cost Rs 50 per person should share the train station. Taxis can be found in front of or Haridwar. Rs 650 to Rishikesh charge AIR AIR Air Deccan has one daily flight from Delhi to 20km Dehra Dun’s Jolly Grant airport, about road. Internet the city on the Haridwar east of for the one-hour flight start at Rs 1650. fares A taxi from the airport costs Rs 250. BUS from the Old buses Although still leave a few Delhi bus stand, all long-distance almost mod- and depart from the huge, buses arrive at Clement (ISBT) Bus Terminal ern Interstate To get the city centre. Town, 5km south of a local bus (Rs 4), take there Mussoorie (Rs 50). A few or an autorickshaw but most go from the from here buses leave Mussoorie bus stand next to the train station. range of crafts and clothes with striking de- crafts of range prices. Money raised here signs at reasonable in Himalayan villages benefits women working opportunities. employment few who have www.surveyofindia.gov.in; at the SurveyThis tiny shop all India stocks of Indian and antique maps of current sorts of as well as treks, and states, cities, tourist areas digital maps on CD. evening stroll and you can pick up every- to clothing and souvenirs thing from cheap gear. camping and trekking Getting There & Away cushions and rugs. Big range of tea, coffee and coffee tea, of Big range and rugs. cushions cold drinks. bars, many hotel Dun’s Dehra salubrious of President. Hotel this one is at and an café with board games lar modern next door. excellent bookshop (Rajpur Rd) and snacks. coffee shakes Shopping SARV Handicraft Emporium h street through Paltan Bazaar is a popular Bazaar is a popular through Paltan street

(15B 11am- Plenty ) h a Dun •• Dehra (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND Bright and breezy

(29 Rajpur Rd; mains Rs 15- 11am-3.30pm, 7-10.30pm; (76 Rajpur Rd;

Bright, spotless fast- 2744086; www.greatvaluehotel ) 2657082; www.hotelpresident 2657082; h % a %

( (

This is an elegant restaurant This is an elegant restaurant ) Part of a popular complex of complex of a popular of Part 2655733; 33 Rajpur Rs 45-120; Rd; mains ) 2657001; 19B Rajpur Rs 80-200; Rd; mains a (7 Rajpur Rd; mains Rs 50-80;

% a In spite of the naff the of name, attention In spite ) ( %

(Astley Hall, Rajpur Rd) this clean, busy restaurant. this clean, busy restaurant. (

Dehra Dun’s coolest hang-out, Maa Maa Dun’s coolest hang-out, Dehra

ai Fine South Indian dosas and thalis are Fine South Indian dosas and thalis are 11.30am-11.30pm; ) 11am-11pm; Kwality Yo China Nirula’s

Motimahal Kumar Vegetarian & South Indian Restaurant Ellora’s Melting Moments Hotel Great Value Hotel President Often packed with local families, Ellora’s packed Often 125 to 180) while reclining on Middle Eastern 125 to 180) while reclining Cozy is an Arabian style lounge where you where Cozy is an Arabian style lounge sheesha pipe (Rs a fruit-flavoured can smoke Maa Cozy Coffee Lounge 11.30pm) the cosy Cobble Bar. the cosy Cobble Drinking tikka sizzlers to roast lamb. Finish off with to roast lamb. Finish tikka sizzlers dessertstempting or cocktails. Attached is with cream-cushion furniture and a superb furniture with cream-cushion chicken dishes from and nonveg veg of range h all things Chinese, from dim sum and chicken all things Chinese, from dim sum and chicken mein. wings to chow h specialising in floors on three food restaurant kebabs and Chinese offerings as well as more and Chinese as well as more offerings kebabs exotic items. of choices are available at this busy diner with available are choices of a Rajpur Rd; meals Rs 25-70; is a fast-food institution servingis a fast-food up pizza, sweets and lassis. sandwiches, burgers, 60) Nirula’s specialises in ice creams but also doesNirula’s specialises creams in ice as burgers. fast food such inexpensive but by far the best hunting ground is along but by far the best hunting the clock tower. Rajpur Rd northeast of Eating Eating restaurants of range Dehra Dun has an eclectic has live music at 8pm. has live and broadband internet access. The restaurant access. The restaurant and broadband internet to detail is the strong point of this elegant and to detail point of is the strong antique fur- with marble décor, hotel stylish TV, Rooms have and greenery. fridge niture .com; 74C Rajpur Rd; s Rs 1500-2500, d Rs 2200-3150, ste Rs 5100; are stylishly ultramodern – as well as two good – as well as two good ultramodern stylishly are and the Polo Bar. restaurants as Astley Hall, President has well-appointed has well-appointed President Hall, as Astley Nirula’s above rooms – those in the annexe Rs 1600-1900; places known and fast-food shops, restaurants dehradun.com; 6 Astley Hall, Rajpur 6 Astley dehradun.com; d s Rs 1400-1700, Rd; Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book served in UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) green white- and thedistant in clouds. Whenthemistclears, viewsof the spendsmuchHill Stations’ of theyearswathed Perched of onaridge the‘Queen 2kmhigh, % MUSSOORIE around thecity. few kilometres orRs100perhourfor touring upto60fora cost Rs30forashort distance, atClementTown. Autorickshaws bus stand number). No5 five fixed routes (lookatthefrontfor autorickshaws; Rs3to5pertrip)racealong Hundreds of eight-seater Getting Around at 9.30pm. at 8am.Thereturn tripleaves Dehra Dun at9.10pm,arrivingDehra Dunstation thatleaves DelhiSaraiRohilla service night 2AC Rs146/412/592,11hours) isanover- executive class. at 5pm.It’snotworthpayingtheextrafor at 12.40pm.Thereturn tripleaves DehraDun New Delhiat6.55amandreaches Dehra Dun (chair/executive Rs470/920)which leaves Dun andDelhiisthedaily Amritsar. linkingDehra Thebestservice , , and (Calcutta) Delhi, andthere to are ahandfulof services Dehra Duniswellconnected bytrainto TRAIN 450 The daily BUSES FROMDEHRADUN 0135 /pop29,319 elev2000m hma 8 1 6am,8am,10am,11.30pmdaily 4.30am,5.30am,1pmdaily half-hourlybtwn6am&8pm 10 12.30pm&5.30pmdaily 7 hourlybtwn5.30am&5pm hourlybtwn6.30am&10.30pm hourlybtwn6.15am&12.15am 1½ 180 6am 248 14 while othersgototheLibrarybusstandatotherend. 7 7 busstand.SomegotothePicture Palace fromMussoorie busstandatoneendofMussoorie A –busesdeparting 6 28 1308 Uttarkashi Shimla eight 272 daily Ramnagar 30 Rishikesh 3pm half-hourly Nainital 175 135 1½ 190 113 (A) Mussoorie 12 355 Manali 35 Haridwar 14 2 half-hourly Dharamsala daily Delhi (standard) Delhi (deluxe) daily Destination Fares (Rs) Duration Departures (hr) UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Mussoorie Mussoorie Express vikrams gototheNewDelhi vikrams Shatabdi Express (sleeper/3AC/ (shared h cancies andtheirpricesdropdramatically. other timesmanyof the300hotels have va- with visitors May between andJuly, butat and summerpalaces.Thetownisswamped architecture of thechurches, libraries,hotels of Theghosts thateralingerset. oninthe soorie becamehugely popularwiththeRaj ings, andanupbeatatmosphere. of walksinthearea, interesting build- Raj-era families andhoneymooners, there are plenty like holidaycampfor can atfirst atacky seem January. Mussoorie’smainbazaars Although up here inwinter, withsnowfallcommonin getsfrom theplainsbelow.Itcertainly cold fresh airmake mountain a welcome break the hotmonths thecoolertemperatures and capped Himalayanpeaksare superb,andin Connexions ACCESSINTERNET Information of5km tothesettlement . anarrowroadleads KulriBazaar walk. Beyond scenic thetwoendsbut it’sapleasant, between Mall. Cycle-rickshaws willtake youthe2km are linked byanalmosttraffic-free road,the attheeastern end,andthetwo Kulri Bazaar atthewestern endandthelivelierBazaar) areas: GandhiChowk(alsocalledLibrary Mussoorie consistsofCentral twodeveloped Orientation by the Britishin1823,Mus- Established 10.30am-10.30pm) AbovetheTavern. (the Mall, Kulri Bazaar;perhr Rs60; Kulri (theMall, lonelyplanet.com

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

451 (1863) 2631302; Upper in Kulri Ba-

% ( Christ Church . One of India’s lead- . One of (12km return), former return), (12km Landour Language School Union Church Trek Himalaya 2631302; www.trekhimalaya. 10am-8pm) Long-time local trekker can organise guided walks to can organise 2632863; Library bus stand; % ( h % Everest House ( Krishna Temple, the Jama Masjid Jama the Krishna Temple,

11am-8pm) h 2631487; www.landourlanguageschool.org; Landour; 2631487; www.landourlanguageschool.org; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) GMVN organises two local 1st Mon in Feb-2nd Fri in Dec) 1st Mon in Feb-2nd Hotels are strung out between the two ba- are Hotels % zaar holds a service in English at 11am every times you should be able to get a bargain. The a bargain. to get times you should be able for the mid-season are unless prices listed otherwise specified. places around budget with the better zaars, Kulri Bazaar closer and the top-end hotels to Check out is usually 10am. Library Bazaar. Trek Himalaya com; Upper Mall; Sleeping to peak seasonThe absolute is summer (May prices shoot to ridiculous July) when hotel a mid-peak during the honey- heights. There’s moon season and November, around October other At Christmas and New Year. and over and a Buddhist temple (in Happy Valley). Happy (in and a Buddhist temple Courses and col- to many schools Mussoorie is home including the leges, ( h Hindi conversational for teaching ing schools and advanced levels, at beginner, intermediate tutor- Rs 140 per hour, private group classes are to books (Rs 1000 Course ials Rs 200 per hour. extra. (Rs 250) are 1350) and enrolment fee Tours GMVN booth Neelambar Badoni organises three-day to unspoilt treks Nagtibba for around US$100 per person (minimum five) as to , Har kiwell as customised treks Dun, Gaumukh Glacier and safaris as far as . abandoned abandoned surveyor- first Everest, Sir George of residence the world’s of India and namesake of general highest mountain. Mall; & TEMPLES CHURCHES denominations various of Christian churches The can be visited. Sunday, while the beautiful memor- and bears is the oldest in Mussoorie recent More colonial residents. ial plaques of include a Sai Baba Temple, worship places of the Radha tours – one to Kempty Falls (three-hour tour Rs 70) and tours – one to Kempty Falls and the other to Dhanoltri, Surkhanda Devi Temple Mussoorie Lake (full-day tour Rs 140). h thesefor around Rs 600 a day. points

Camel’s cable car Benog Hill 11am-8pm) •• Mussoorie (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND h 2632053; near 2632053; 2632863; Lower % ( % ( runs up to Mussoorie’s runs up to Mussoorie’s (Kulri the Mall) Bazaar, 2632206; the Mall, Kulri Bazaar; (Kulri Bazaar) 2631302; Upper Mall; % 2631281; Library bus stand; ( 9am-8pm) % % ( ( h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Near the cable car station. 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Near the cable In the Mall and Gandhi Chowk. is a popular 3km promenade from Kulri

h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Can book local tours, treks and local tours, treks 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Can book West of Gandhi Chowk, a more demand- Chowk, a more Gandhi West of

Mall; h Exchanges major currencies and travellers cheques at a fair rate. and travellers cheques Exchanges major currencies h houses. far-flung rest some fine views. A slightly walk is to the shorter ing walk is to the Jwalaji Temple on Temple ing walk is to the Jwalaji via Clouds End Hotel. (about 18km return) The walk passes and offers through thick forest Landour and the Sisters’ Bazaar area. Landour Bazaar area. and the Sisters’ (5km one way) starts at the Picture Palace, goes Palace, (5km one way) starts at the Picture and the clock tower to past the Union Church 150 return) along the trail if you start from the 150 return) walk longer Gandhi Chowk end. An enjoyable, way, including a teashop with a telescope (Rs with a telescope way, including a teashop (Rs 120 one way, Rs 10). You can ride a horse formation that looks like a camel. There are a are a camel. There formation that looks like good mountain viewpoints along the couple of Back Rd Bazaar passes to Gandhi Chowk, which a rock The walks around Mussoorie offer great views great offer The walks around Mussoorie in the way. when the clouds don’t get taken dressed up in Garhwali costumes. up in Garhwali dressed taken WALKS atmosphere with kids’ rides, food stalls, with kids’ rides, magic atmosphere their photos having shops and honeymooners views of several peaks, including .views of path also winds up to the viewpoint. A steep The most popular time to go up is an hour or a mini-carnival sunset and there’s so before (return Rs 50; (return highest has (2530m) which point, Gun Hill GUN HILL GUN HILL Rd, a From midway along the Mall Sights & Activities Sights & Activities Uttarakhand Tourism office GMVN booth TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Main post office POST POST UTI ATM Bank of Baroda ATM Bank of Baroda StateIndia ATM Bank of Trek Himalaya MONEY MONEY MEDICAL SERVICES SERVICES MEDICAL Hospital Community Landour Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book Tehri bus stand, Landour Rd) Has 24-hour emergency cover Rd) Has 24-hour emergency cover bus stand, Landour Tehri servicesas well as dental pharmacy. and a 24-hour UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) way, thisisacandy-stripedwarren of aplace Bazaar; dRs200-350) off-season discount 40%) Horizon Hotel MIDRANGE are amixed bagbutsomehave abalcony. bargain, therooms bazaar andanoff-season Rs 1200-2000,off-season200-400) with views. rooms andsuites. There’s terrace apleasant in summer),butthere are alsosomespacious budget roomsare aslittleRs100(Rs900 with ahuge range of rooms.Intheoff-season Camel’s BackRd;rRs100-700) able. Pricestripleinpeakseason. rooms have goodviewsandmealsare avail- character comfort.Some withoutsacrificing colourful flowerboxes inthewindowsoozes ers, thishistoric1880swoodenhotel with their rates to budget out of levels season. Budget placesare few, butmosthotels drop BUDGET 452 Benog Hill(9km) Clouds EndHotel(7km); To EverestHouse(6km); 1 3 2 MUSSOORIE Kempty Falls(15km) To HappyValley(3km); Hotel Rockwood Hotel Deep Hotel Hotel Broadway Hotel

Happy TAAHN UTRNHL • Msore UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Mussoorie

Valley

Hotel Deep...... Hotel Broadway...... Union Church...... Sai BabaTemple...... Radha KrishnaTemple...... Pony Stand...... Jama Masjid...... Christ Church...... Uttarakhand TourismOffice...... UTI ATM...... UTI ATM...... Trek Himalaya...... State BankofIndiaATM...... Police Station...... Police Box...... Main PostOffice...... GMVN Booth...... (see37) Connexions...... (see 30) Bank ofBarodaATM...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Rd A (

% Gandhi Chowk

( Library % 2632899; Picture Palace; dRs1600-1800, Numberoneforbackpack-

(

( % 2632470; [email protected]; Atouch of style withhand- % Gate east ofgate closed tovehicles The Mallis 2632850; the Mall, Kulri Bazaar; d Kulri 2632850; theMall, 2632243; Camel’s Back Rd, Kulri 2632243; Camel’sBackRd,Kulri 3 36 Next doortoBroad- 26 37 Intheheartof the 8 12 025 10 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 E2 E1 F2 F2 F2 B1 F2 D2 B1 C1 D2 E2 F2 A1 E2 F2 1E2 B1 B Mussoorie Co-opClub...... Garwhal TerraceBar...... The Tavern...... Meeting PointCafé...... Kalsang FriendsCorner...... Howard RevolvingRestaurant.... City PointRestaurant...... Casa MiaBakery...... Café CoffeeDay...... Barista...... Shiva Continental...... Kasmanda PalaceHotel...... Hotel Rockwood...... Hotel PadminiNivas...... Hotel Horizon...... DRINKING EATING Back Rd Camel's 19 10 have views as well as TV andheating. have viewsaswellTV below reception totherooms,mostof which painted muralsinalltherooms.Youdescend this white Romanesque castlewas builtin discount 20%) dRs2800-4000,off-season [email protected]; offthe Mall; of landscaped gardens. feature onfive andthewhole placeisset acres with itsantiquefurniture, isanoutstanding and beautifullyfurnished. Thediningroom, aprivateeven cottage are well-appointed fashioned charm. rooms, suites Large and looks abitramshackle buthasareal old- of thisgreen-roofed Rajpipla, heritage hotel bytheMaharajaish colonelandthenbought off-season discount50%; dRs1700-2300,ste2800-3200, mininivas.com; theMall; rooms are andmosthave bright views. they threaten totake over theplace. Carpeted shady terrace andsomanypotplantsthat has marbledécor,sculptures, a to Landour eccentrichotelThis slightly ontheroadup .com; LandourRd;rRs1500-3000,off-season950-1950) 34 o Padmini Nivas Hotel Shiva Continental 21 The Mall 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 C D2 C1 F2 C1 E2 D1 B1 E2 E2 F2 C1 E2 B1 F2 29 Kasmanda Palace Hotel Palace Hotel Kasmanda Mussoorie’s mostromantic hotel, Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Taxi Stand...... (see39) Taxi Stand...... (see37) Picture PalaceBusStand...... Agency...... Library BusStand...... Cycle-rickshaw Stand...... Cycle-rickshaw Stand...... Tibetan Market...... Ancient Palace...... Snooked PoolParlour...... (see30) Northern RailwayBooking TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT 7 31 i

( % ) Builtin1840byaBrit- ( % To Mussoorie Lake (5km); Dehra Dun 27 (35km) 2632174; www.shivacon 2631093; www.hotelpad Gun Hill (2530m) 35 (

% 32 D Cable Car 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 2632424; kas-

F2 E2 B1 B1 D2 C1 F2 9 6

Mall

Lower

Mall Upper

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) 2- h 453 This pool parlour 2633710; the Mall; meals 2632828; Lower Mall; %

( belongs to Joshimath, belongs to Joshimath, %

(

(the Mall, pool per hr Rs 80, snooker 2632829; the Mall, Picture Palace; meals 2632829; the Mall, Palace; Picture 10.30am-10.30pm) % (Tibetan dumplings) and noo- dumplings) and (Tibetan (

h A favourite place to dine and hang place to dine A favourite This deservedly popular place is one pièce de résistance pièce momos A throwback to the Raj, being despite where a 4km-long cable car ( p470 ) takes ) takes p470 a 4km-long cable car ( where than 1000m up to the ski you more resort of for magnificent views of Nanda Devi. Auli HANGING BY A WIRE A WIRE BY HANGING of Uttarakhand has plenty of hills and a few cable cars – usually called ‘rope-them have ways’ locally – which not only make get- a source of but are ting to the top a breeze, ) p475 cable car ( Nainital’s civic pride. great for a takes you from the lake to Snow View glimpse of the Himalaya, while Mussoorie Haridwar has ) has a similar set-up. p451 ( specifically designed to take two that are ). But p455 ( pilgrims up to hilltop temples the Mussoorie has lots of cafés along the Mall, cafés along the Mall, Mussoorie has lots of Mussoorie Co-op Club Snooked Parlour Pool Kalsang Friends Corner The Tavern 11pm) there’s live music in the evening. Beer live there’s and at the bar. available cocktails are Barista of and Caféincluding branches Coffee can’t go past the Day. For fine dining, you ) opposite Nivas ( Padmini at Hotel restaurants ). opposite ( Hotel Palace and Kasmanda Drinking & Entertainment Mussoorie’s family-holiday entertainment includes video game arcades and an indoor rink. roller-skating per hr Rs 100; self and to meet entertained locals. Downstairs music every evening at the bar. live there’s does curries and dishes such as khadai chicken does as khadai dishes such curries and chicken for dinner. Rs 20-80) Along in town. restaurants several Tibetan of with Thai papaya salad,dles, mains include chicken dishes and omelettes. Rs 70-235) food from of range a global boasts out, Tavern curry and just fish crispy roast lamb to Goan about everything in between. The décor is a pub, but staff welcoming and bit British are built in 1957, this ramshackle club is a good built in 1957, this ramshackle place to come for a beer (Rs 100) and a game 100 per hour). (Rs billiards or snooker of above the Tavern is a good place to keep your- is a good place to keep the Tavern above 22 2 3 1

Rd 39 33 200 m Away To Dehra 0.1 miles

Dun (34km) Landour Landour Hospital (1.5km); •• Mussoorie (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND F Landour Community 15 18 (the Mall; meals Rs To Clock Tower (150m);

Tehri Bus Stand (1.5km); Picture Palace Cinema (closed) 1 Surkhanda Devi Temple (35km) 13 Landour Language School (5km); Gate 4 0 0 30 Cemetery (200m) 11 14 (the Mall, Gandhi Chowk; meals

To Camel's Rock (100m); Sisters' Bazaar (5km); Dhanoltri (24km); 23 Palace Picture (the Mall; meals Rs 25-45) (the Mall, Kulri Bazaar; snacks Rs 16-

17 vehicles west of gate The Mall is closed to 16

20 The Mall The

E Back Rd

Camel's 25 This small wood-panelled place is 24 Kulri Halfway along the Mall, this is a novel is a novel this along the Mall, Halfway Bazaar 5 28 City Point Restaurant Casa Mia Bakery Howard Revolving Restaurant The best of the many bakeries, this one the many bakeries, The best of 2 38 great for breakfast or a quick snack but also or a quick for breakfast great Rs 30-110) place to eat – it’s switched on when guests ar- place to eat – it’s switched Reasonable for revolving’!). (‘No charges rive food, good views. 35-50) 45) temptations, includ- of has a dazzling range muffins, apple pies and ing croissants, cakes, frozen drinks. out with espresso coffee and Tibetan food. and Tibetan coffee out with espresso Meeting Point Cafe this is a pleasant little hang- from the bazaars, antique-filled Maharaja Room is the royal Room is the royal Maharaja antique-filled gar- best. The formal dining room and pretty the picture. complete den area Eating by moth-eaten hunting trophies. All of the All of hunting trophies. by moth-eaten but the wood-panelled and charm rooms have 1836 for a British officer bought and was 1836 for a British by in 1915. The red- Kasmanda of the Maharaja hall has a superb staircase carpeted flanked Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) 2258) takes anhour. There are nodirect to buses costs around Rs1800. includingKemptytaxi Falls andDhanoltri around Mussoorie by full dayof sightseeing Cycle-rickshaws along theMall cost Rs20.A Getting Around Haridwar. Sat, 8am-2pmSun) Bazaar; Kulri the Mall, The TRAIN per person. shared toDehra Dun should taxi costRs50 (Rs2500).A toUttarkashi (Rs 1100)orjeeps hire toDehra Dun(Rs400),Rishikesh taxis youcan atbothbusstands stands From taxi TAXI Tehri onthewaytoLandour. busstand toTehrisuch asthose Dam,leave fromthe tion of andshare Localbuses, buses jeeps. hours), whichseven mayrequire acombina- or toSankrifortheHar kiDuntrek (Rs120, notri (Rs174,sixhours) which are irregular, toYamu- aboutbuses at theLibrarybusstand into theHimalayafromMussoorie. Enquire at DehraDun. Rishikesh orHaridwar tochange –you’llneed while others gotothe go tothe Dun forMussoorie (Rs28,1½hours). Some inDehra (nexttothetrainstation) bus stand Frequent leave buses fromtheMussoorie BUS Getting There&Away curios. 9pm) and atthetopof thecablecar. kids. Theyare scattered mainlyalongtheMall magic tricksandwhackytoys–great giftsfor shops, where youcanbuycheap butbaffling soorie hasawonderfulcollectionof magic with cheap clothingandothergoods.Mus- There’s a Shopping the DoonValley. withviewsdown placeforabeer Pleasant 454 Garhwal Terrace Bar Garhwal It’s possibletotake the‘backroads’north Ancient Palace Thisshopiscrammedwithantiquesand attheotherendof town.Thereturn trip Northern Railway booking agency booking Railway Northern UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••AroundMussoorie Tibetan Market Picture Palace busstand Picture sells ticketssells fortrainsfrom

( % h 2631622; LandourRd;

8-11am &noon-3pmMon- Library busstand (the Mall; (the Mall; (the Mall; (the Mall;

h h ( daily from9am) ( % % noon-11pm)

h 2632259) 2632846; (

% 10am- 263

offerings are released ontotheGanges. comes alive withflickering flamesasfloating theriver evening hour furthernorth,andevery is much more significantthanRishikesh, an the religious architecture of India,Haridwar upinthespiritualclamourhere.caught Within reverent feel –asinVaranasi, it’seasytoget Har-ki-Pairi Ghatgive Haridwar achaotic but numberssheer of peoplegatheringaround to batheintheoften fast-flowing Ganges. cityandpilgrimsarrive here indroves (also calledHardwar) holiest isUttarakhand’s Ganges emerges fromtheHimalaya, Haridwar Propitiously located atthepointwhere the % HARIDWAR See p451 forcheaper bustours. temple thecostisRs900. Devi and Surkhanda Devi Surkhanda of Mussoorie. About 9kmfurthernorthis amongdeodarforestsset 25kmnortheast Himalayan viewsandisalovely picnicspot trip to where youcanswiminthecrowdedpool.A is impressive aroundMussoorie The mostpopularsight AROUND MUSSOORIE Pairi ghat. runsouth ofalleyways of Bazaar Har-ki- Bara around theopposite bankof theriver. The Bhimgoda Jhula(bridge) so vehicles travel bridge andare Laltarao allowedbetween onlycycle-rickshawsto theeast).Generally (theriver properrunsfurther coming UpperRd,andrunsparallel tothe Haridwar’s Rd, be- mainstreet isRailway Orientation 2010) attractsmillionsof pilgrims. Kumbh Mela (thenextoneinHaridwar is Ardh Magh Mela. Every 12years themega Rajaji NationalPark. hassle-free andisalsothegateway tonearby medicines,thecityisrelatively its Ayurvedic which are thesizeof smallvillages. Famous for (pilgrims’ rest andashrams,someof houses) ples, bothancientandmodern, ary, which six years every becomesabigger istheMaghevent Mela inJanuary orFebru- from ApriltoNovember, butthebigannual Kempty Falls costsRs600andtoDhanoltri which to isa2kmwalkfromtheroad.Ataxi Dotted aroundthecityare impressive tem- Haridwar isbusyduringthe 01334 /pop220,433elev249m Dhanoltri

Kempty Falls Kempty Temple offers panoramicsnowcapped , at a height of, ataheight 3030m, , 15kmnorthwest, lonelyplanet.com dharamsalas yatra season season

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

455 yatra Chandi Devi up Neel 7.30am-7pm Apr- 8am-6pm) h (food offering used (food offering h Mohan’s Adventure Tours can organise any kind can organise before asking for Rs 200 for Rs asking before to the crowded hilltop to the crowded hilltop , a wish-fulfilling goddess. , a wish-fulfilling prasad (return Rs 48; (return 2426469; Jassa RamRs 110, d Rs Rd; s

-stealing monkeys. Photog- monkeys. -stealing puja (return Rs 70; (return

% (

8am-10.30pm) A fairly grim cheapie where only where A fairly grim cheapie prasad ) Mansa Devi cable car h cable car a , which was built by Raja Singh, which Suchet 265543, mobile 9837100215; www.mohansadventure.in; Hotel Ashok Many visitors and pilgrims combine this and visitors Many The best times to visit the ghats are early to visit the ghatsThe best times are you with your you with % neon signs may raise your hopes, none are neon signs may raise your hopes, none are has far superior budget good. Rishikesh very accommodation. bird-watching and rafting. He specialises in He and rafting. bird-watching around safaris (Rs 1750 per person) five-hour ). Sanjeev also p459 (see National Park Rajaji Reserve. trips to Corbett Tiger runs three-day Sleeping to Hindu catering hotels has loads of Haridwar is the year pilgrims. The busiest time of – outside thisseason from April to November finding a no problem have time you should 20% to 50%. See room at discounts of the boxed , for details staying on at an ashram. p462 text, BUDGET Ram Rd and the other alleys running Jassa hotels budget off Railway plenty of Rd have and the fancy foyers and although some of dess on the hill. You can walk up (1.5km) but on the hill. You can walk dess of beware temple. raphy is forbidden in the with a to Haridwar, Hill, 4km southeast of Temple Devi Rs 144 at Mansa in 1929. Pay Kashmir of and take cable cars and you can ride on both between the two temples. coach an AC Tours cin- next to Chitra Talkies From his office of ema, Sanjeev Mehta ( Railway Rd; fishing, cycling, trekking, tour, including of or more. If you want to make a donation, give give a donation, want to make If you or more. collector priest or uniformed it to a genuine box. in a charity or put money dusk. just before morning or DEVI TEMPLES CHANDI DEVI & MANSA Take the Oct, 8.30am-6pm Nov-Mar) of temple is lined with stallsThe path to the cable car of selling packages up to the god- to take ceremonies) in religious the ‘deluxe’ rooms (with TVthe ‘deluxe’ and hot water) faintly appealing. are 150-250; 10am- (river (river 265304; 9am- h % h •• Haridwar (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND 10am-9pm) 221003; Railway ganga aarti h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) % ( (train station; (Rahi Motel; h (Railwayhr Rs 40; Rd; per 2244240; Railway Rd; (Railway Rd) % (Upper Rd; per hr Rs 40; (Upper Rd; per hr ( (Upper Rd; per hr Rs 40; (Upper Rd; per (Upper Rd; 329279; Upper Rd; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) (Railway currency Rd) Exchanges foreign % h (

8am-10.30pm) 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Can organise half-day taxi tour of 10am-10pm) The ghat sits on the western bank of the bank of The ghat sits on the western

Tourists can mingle with the crowd to Tourists can mingle with the crowd to Changes cash and travellers cheques for 1% commission. Changes cash and travellers cheques Rd) A long-established medical college and hospital with a good reputation. h h Haridwar for Rs 700. and travellers cheques. experience the rituals of an ancient religion an ancient religion experience the rituals of its power in the modern age. that still retains Someone may claim to be a priest and help as the sun sets, bells ring out a rhythm, torches as the sun sets, torches out a rhythm, bells ring with flower petals in- lit, and leaf baskets are lit and put side and a candle on top (Rs 5) are to drift away downstream. on the river worship ceremony). Officials in blue uniform ceremony). worship and out receipts) collect donations (and give Ganges canal and every evening hundreds of of canal and every evening hundreds Ganges gather for the worshippers and shrines. away your sins. Pilgrims bathe here in its often in its often away your sins. Pilgrims bathe here to the priests money and donate fast currents nectar and left a footprint behind. As such it such nectar As and left a footprint behind. to and the place to wash sacred is very Railway Rd; HAR-KI-PAIRI GHAT God) is where of (The Footstep Har-ki-Pairi dropped some heavenly is said to have Uttarakhand Tourism office Sights & Activities Tourist Information counter TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION GMVN tourist office POST POST Main post office State Bank of India ATM LPK Forex 5pm Mon-Sat) Canara Bank MONEY MONEY MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES Rishikul Ayurvedic Hospital Mohan’s Adventure Tours Internet i-way Zone 7 Days Cyber Café7 Days Cyber Information Information INTERNET ACCESS Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book 10.30pm) h UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) 456 (200km) To Delhi 4 6 1 3 2 5 HARIDWAR &AROUND Haridwar Train UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) &Around ••Haridwar ihklAuvdcHsia...... B5 Rishikul AyurvedicHospital...... Hotel SachinInternational...... Hotel OmDeluxe...... Hotel LeGrand...... Hotel GangaAzure...... Hotel Ashok...... (see21) Hotel Arjun...... Haveli HariGanga...... Bhaj-Govindam...... Ram Ghat...... Pawan DhamTemple...... Mohan's AdventureTours...... Mansa DeviTemple...... Mahesh YogiOrganisation...... (see16) Lal MataTemple...... Jain Temple...... Jai RamAshram...... Daksha MahadevTemple...... Chandi DeviTemple...... Bhimgoda Tank...... Uttarakhand TourismOffice...... Tourist InformationCounter...... State BankofIndiaATM...... Mohan's AdventureTours...... (see16) Main PostOffice...... LPK Forex...... (see3) Internet Zonei-way...... GMVN TouristOffice...... Canara Bank...... 7 DaysCyberCafé...... (see30) SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION 37 0 0 Train Station Station Jwalapur 35 8 AC 38 7

25

Statue Shiva Jwalapur Rd Murti Shiv

21 Jassa 0.2 miles 22

23 16 Ram Rd Ram 400 m 29 Railway Rd 6 26 2 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 36 B1 A6 A2 A2 B2 C4 B2 D3 A2 B1 D3 D3 C4 B6 D6 C4 A2 A2 A2 B2 B2 B2 B2 A2 Laltarao Bridge 30 11 31 aiSad...... A2 Taxi Stand...... Prakash Lok...... Hoshiyar ...... Haveli HariGanga...... (see20) Chotiwala...... Chotiwala...... Big BenRestaurant...... (see22) 7 DaysRestaurant...... Shri PremNagarAshram...... Shanti KunjAshram...... Mohyal Ashram...... Hotel SwagatPalace...... UP RoadwaysBusStand...... Private BusStand...... GMOU BusStand...... TRANSPORT EATING 4 1

Railway Rd Cable Car Ganges Canal B 5 Upper Rd 3 See Enlargement 15 20 ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ 24 34 Bazaar Bara 18 Train Station Haridwar 33 Ganges River 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 32 B2 C1 C1 B2 B2 A6 D3 D3 A2 A2 B2 A2 Railway Rd Ghat Har-ki-Pairi Walkway ὈὈ ὈὈ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὈὈὈὄ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὄ ὄὄὄ ὈὈὈὄ ὄὄ

Ganges River Clock Tower 9 19 To Najibabad(49km) 12 Bhimgoda Cable Car Upper Rd Jhula 10 1km 0.5miles 0 0 ὄ 14 lonelyplanet.com Rajaji National D 17 Park Ris 13 hike

sh 27 To Rishikesh

To Chilla Rd 28 (3km) (18km) UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

457 ) 11am- Hid- This h aloo gobi

, ai (traditional, An enormous ) 226443; www.haveli on its private ghat. on its private a %

(

haveli haveli There are a couple of a couple of are There 2429250; www.hotellegrand (Upper Rd; meals Rs 15-65) %

(

ganga aarti (Upper Rd; meals Rs 20-65;

(stuffed fried bread) Established in 1937 and still Established in 1937 and still (meals Rs 20-60)

Haveli Hari Ganga Haveli Hari Ganga 7 Days Restaurant Hoshiyar Puri Chotiwala Hotel Le Grand o 4pm & 7pm-4am) with a loyal following – the kidney beans, paratha lacha ornately decorated residence), is Haridwar’s is Haridwar’s residence), decorated ornately Airy courtyards, marble floors, finest hotel. and down- laps onto one terrace The Ganges an Ayurvedicstairs treat- health spa offers ments as well as yoga classes. Eating Being food and only vegetarian a holy city, In Bara Ba- available. drinks are nonalcoholic zaar, Prakash Lok is an institution for its lassis and almond milk – that’s all it serves! – one restaurant outlets for this popular veg on Upper Rd and another down on the river at Subhash Ghat. You may find the forlorn out the front. sitting mascot (the chotiwallah) simple snacks and ChineseThe veg dishes are but tasty. .com; Railway Rd; d Rs 1395-1795; you at this stylish, central foyer greets echoing the train station. south of 2km hotel upmarket balconies and mod- Comfortable rooms have quiet, it’s is relatively cons. While the location action. from Haridwar’s removed hariganga.com; 21 Ram Ghat; r Rs 2800-3400; den away in Bara Bazaar, but right on the this superb 1918 Ganges, and balconies over- hanging flower baskets Room charm. it a regal give looking the river bath, yoga and steam include breakfast, rates own the hotel’s bright first-floor restaurant and internet café internet and restaurant bright first-floor serves and up dosas, pizzas, cheese burgers Chinese dishes.

) a •• Haridwar (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND 222655; hotelsa % (

221581; Jassa Ram Rd; d % ( 261682; [email protected];

220938; www.hotelgangaazure 226639; Upper Rd; d with/without 226639; Upper Rd; d with/without % % ( % (

(

421962; Jassa Ram Rd; d Rs 650, with AC Palace

) Large, clean rooms (some with clean rooms Large, Centrally a short walk located ) % Reasonable value as the better better Reasonable value as the Amid the transport hub, this Amid the transport hub, this (

) ) a Deluxe a

The best of the bunch on Jassa Ram on Jassa bunch the The best of a a ) a Once found, their panda will record their visit and any births, marriages and deaths that have and any births, their visit their panda will record Once found, and deaths that have marriages taken place since the last pilgrimage of a family member. In the past, pilgrims stayed with their pilgrims stayed with their In the past, taken of a family member. since the last pilgrimage place as banker, panda, who acted minder and cook. trusted but pandas Today, this is not so common, not just donate can become wealthy as pilgrims Pandas rituals. still help with the many to their deceased relatives. belonging but also valuable items generous sums of money, PRIESTLY PRIESTLY PANDAS from Hindu is a common question panda?’ This can I find my family pilgrims visiting ‘Where of a family’s history, records accurate guides) also maintain (priests and pilgrim Pandas Haridwar. at the ghats but also at the can see them not only You of years. back hundreds which can date and village, district and state of their clan, caste, a panda the name give Pilgrims train station. specific family panda. to their then directed are Bhaj-Govindam Hotel Sachin International Hotel Arjun Hotel Om Hotel Swagat The accommodation is absolute riverfront riverfront The accommodation is absolute ghat – ask to be dropped with its own private Jhula’. at ‘Bhimgoda these comfortable bamboo huts are setthese in a comfortable bamboo huts are equipped with fans, pleasant garden and are bathrooms. and tiled private air cooler or AC, Haridwar’s most relaxing accommodation in a accommodation most relaxing Haridwar’s the Ganges, wonderful location on the bank of 1600/1800; but comfortable nondescript hotel is a large, with rooms around a central car park and a a causeway. over reached restaurant [email protected]; Railway Rd; s/d Rs 850/950, with AC Rs [email protected]; ing and some are a bit small, but there’s a a bit small, but there’s ing and some are to choose from. range from the train station, has an inter- this hotel esting inner courtyard with a multicoloured as interest- quite The rooms aren’t roof. glass .com; Railway Rd; d Rs 500-700, with AC Rs 1500, off-season discount 20%; MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END Hotel Ganga Azure Rs 950; Rooms Rd – if you don’t mind pink décor. solar hot water clean and bright, there’s are Prices drop by 50% in and even an elevator. the off-season. AC Rs 750/450; near the cable a balcony), a central location and helpful staff Devi Temple, car to Mansa this a good option. make Rs 250-500; spacious with TVrooms are and clean tiled floors. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book near Bhimgoda Jhula; huts Rs 800, with AC Rs 1250; UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) meals Rs40-125; 180/300), (Rs350/450)andPushkar to Agra Rs240/400),Delhi(Rs (seat/sleeper thetable, war, see below . ofFor details major busroutes fromHarid- BUS age season. but bookaheadfortrainsduringthepilgrim- Haridwar iswellconnected bybusandtrain, Getting There&Away Haridwar. this lovely heritage hotel istheclassiest in Indianvegetariancial, theevening at buffet buffet Rs300; dish). potato thali orgourmetKashmiri thespecial and toasted ortackle sandwiches breakfasttinental isRs85.Snackonsoups rors, soft Abigcon- musicandpolite staff. best comfortfoodinthisrestaurant withmir- passing paradeandenjoy someof Haridwar’s pudding) are lip-smackinggood. curry)and (cauliflower andpotato 458 Private deluxe buses and sleeper buses run Private buses deluxe andsleeper buses Haveli Hari Ganga Ganga Hari Haveli Big BenRestaurant In the fromtheUPRoadwaysBusStand. The followingbusesdepart BUSES FROMHARIDWAR eant 20 0 btwn3am&5am btwn3am&5am btwn3am&5am 9.30am 10 6am&4.30pm earlymorning&evening 10 10 few every hrbtwn 3.30am&2.30pm earlymorning&evening 2.30pm&4pm 30min every 200 230 15 14 10 210 10 earlymorning&afternoon 8 Kedarnath 265 Hanuman Chatti 205 152 15 Gangotri 2 (via Joshimath) Badrinath 190 170 10 Destination Fares 280 Uttarkashi every 35 Shimla 17 Rishikesh (Rs) 250 Ranikhet 1 Nainital Duration Jaipur 260 early Dharamsala Departures early Delhi 117 every 12 Dehra Dun 30min 120 Chandigarh (hr) 6 10 Almora Agra 200 early Destination Faresmorning morning 12 30min (Rs) Duration morning Departures (hr) UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Haridwar yatra h h season from April to October, busesfromtheGMOUbusstandrunasfollows: season fromApriltoOctober, 8.30-11pm) 8.30am-10.30pm; ( %

(Hotel Ganga Azure, Railway Rd; Railway Azure, (Hotel Ganga 226443; 21 Ram Ghat;dinner 226443; 21Ram For somethingspe- dum aloo a ) Watch the kheer (spicy (rice sala. The sala. –theeasiestwaytogetAmritsar toDharam- 283/800/1148, 18hours). Twotrainsrunto (Rs 195/549/789,10hours) andVaranasi (Rs sleeper/3AC/2AC, 32hours) viaLucknow press executive Rs505/955,4½hours). The isthe est service at7.55am.Thefast- in toOldDelhistation 8½ hours) which departsat11.20pmandgets Express soorie isthe Delhi, buttheonlyovernight service HaridwarNumerous trainsrunbetween and TRAIN arebuses more comfortable. Bridge, but hour) fromUpperRdatLaltarao (Rs 460)andDehraDun650). (for Rajaji National Park, Rs300),Rishikesh rates includeChilla Rd.Official on Railway isoutsidethetrainstation stand The maintaxi TAXI &VIKRAM travel agent intowncanmake abooking. corner fromtheGMVNtouristoffice andany 450/550). Theyleave aroundthe fromastand 2nd class/chair car Rs 137/450, seven hours) hours) 2nd class/chair carRs137/450,seven Shared runs daily to Kolkata (Rs 405/1141/1642 (Rs405/1141/1642 runsdailytoKolkata Jan Shatabdi vikrams (sleeper/3A/2A Rs 128/361/518, Rs128/361/518, (sleeper/3A/2A Shatabdi Express runtoRishikesh (Rs15,one (daily except Thursday, (dailyexceptThursday, lonelyplanet.com (chair car/ Doon Ex- Mus-

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) 459 ceremony. (Indian Rs 200-500, for- (Indian Rs 200-500, ganga aarti Rajaji Office National Park rest houses at Asarohi, Beribara, at Asarohi, Chilla, . Mohan’s Adventure Tours can can Tours Adventure . Mohan’s forest forest

/fax 0135-2621669; Rajaji National Park Office,/fax 0135-2621669; Rajaji National Park 5/1 Ansari 0135 / pop 79,591 / elev 356m But it’s not all spiritual. Rishikesh is now But it’s not all spiritual. Rishikesh Within the park there are nine histor ical ical nine histor are park there Within the Rishikesh is very New Age: you can learn you can New Age: is very Rishikesh % styles of massage; have a go at chanting mantras; a go at chanting have massage; styles of to spiritually uplifting CDs as you sipand listen Ayurvedic meal. with your vegetarian tea back- rafting centre, a popular white-water in the to treks hang-out, and gateway packer Himalaya. Rishikesh has been a magnet for spiritual seek-Rishikesh Today it styles itselfers. as the ‘Yoga Capital of the World’ – with some justification – as there yoga and and all kinds of ashrams masses of are meditation this action is north classes. Most of setting the exquisite the main town, where of surrounded by for- Ganges, on the fast-flowing to meditation and mind hills, is conducive ested blowsexpansion. In the evening, the breeze down the valley, setting bells ringing as temple sadhus (spiritual men), pilgrims and tourists for the nightly prepare to play the sitar roof; or tabla on your hotel try laughing yoga; practise humming or gong meditation; experience crystal healing and all make a special arrangement with a jeep a jeep with a special arrangement make house, contact rest a forest To book driver. at the the director ( Marg, Dehra Dun) lodges. for forest booking also make Getting There & Away the Buses one hour) leave to Chilla (Rs 10, every hour stand bus in Haridwar GMOU trip leaves from 7am to 2pm. The last return Rs 300 one way charge Chilla at 5.30pm. Taxis for the 13km journey. RISHIKESH % since the Beatles up at the ashram rocked Ever ’60s, Yogi in the late Mahesh the Maharishi of in Chilla. There’s a good restaurant here and here restaurant a good There’s in Chilla. a pleasant garden. but basic Phandowala, Motichur, Kunnao, Kansrao, Ranipur The 1883 forest and Satyanarayan. rooms down- house in Chilla has three rest a balcony. with upstairs a suite and stairs house is also rec- at Satyanarayan The rest has one at Kansrao ommended, while the No food is all its original features. retained (except in Chilla) and if you don’t available to your own transport you will have have eigner Rs 400-1000) eigner Rs 400-1000)

, cover- (sleeper/ GMVN tourist 15 Nov-15 Jun) , which can take can take , which h is the GMVN rest- ) , which offers Rajaji Rajaji offers , which , 13km northeast of , 13km northeast of Mohan’s Adventure Tours a 0138-226678; dm/hut/r Rs 150/ 2244240; Railway Rd, Haridwar; Chilla and Amritsar Passenger

% (Indian/foreigner up to 3 days Rs 40/350,(Indian/foreigner ( %

•• Rajaji National Park (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND 8am-10.30pm) park (per person Rs 200)

220910; www.mohansadventure.com; Railway220910; www.mohansadventure.com; h %

(Map p456 ;

10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Beforecontact visiting, the The village of of The village As well as the park contains well as elephants some As house and the most comfortable place to stay Chilla Guesthouse 900/990, r with AC Rs 1500; legally adopted orphaned elephant. legally adopted Sleeping & Eating ing a tribal village of Gujjar buffalo If Gujjar herders. of ing a tribal village lucky, Sanjeev you to visit his you’re may take watching a parade of wild elephants and visit- a parade of watching Rd, Haridwar; h (Map p456 ; organise a jeep. Jeeps take up to eight take people a jeep.organise Jeeps and cost Rs 700 for the standard safari (plus for the vehicle). Rs 100 entry fee the Tourist Guesthouse at Chilla, where you the Tourist Guesthouse at Chilla, where and pay entry fees can also pick up a brochure, but there are currently only two elephants. currently are but there Ranger’sContact office, close the Forest to up to four passengers, are available on a first- available are up to four passengers, come-first-served at sunrise basis and 3pm, Haridwar, is the base is for visiting the park. Haridwar, Elephant rides 38 tigers and 250 although they are and 250 leopards although they are 38 tigers not as easily seen as these suggest. numbers deer) (spotted thousands of They have spe- largest (India’s sambars of and hundred rarely deer) handful of on. A to feed cies of hidden away. Overseen 300 are sloth bears also add interest. birds species of Haridwar, is best known for its wild elephants, Haridwar, to 500 at last count.numbering around 450 camera free/Rs 50, video 2500/5000; 50, video 2500/5000; camera free/Rs foothills near ing 820 sq km in the forested elev 300-1000m This unspoilt RAJAJI NATIONAL PARK RAJAJI NATIONAL PARK station to Har-ki-Pairi. To hire a taxi for three To hire station Har-ki-Pairi. to and ashrams the local temples to tour hours 200. an autorickshaw costs Rs costs Rs 400; Cycle-rickshaws cost Rs 10 for a short distance cost Rs 10 for a short Cycle-rickshaws train as from the hauls such longer and Rs 25 for and the overnight overnight and the hours). Rs 98/480, 12 3AC Getting Around lonelyplanet.com office safaris even when the park is officially closed park is closed the June to from 15 (most of trip (Rs including a five-hour 15 November), safari, that includes a short 1400 per person) UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) Dun Rd) 10am-1pm Sat) office Tourism Uttarakhand TOURIST INFORMATION Post office postoffice Main POST UTI ATM BankofIndiaATMState ( Bank ofBarodaATM cheques andcash. and Swarg Ashram willexchange travellers travel Jhula agentsSeveral aroundLakshman MONEY Centre Ayurvedic Yogi Mahesh Maharishi and 1kmbeyondJollyGrantairport. nearest largehospital;17kmalongtheroadtoDehraDun Hospital Institute Himalayan MEDICAL SERVICES Services Travel Triveni ChilliAdventure Red Travels Blue Hills ally forRs20or30perhour. Internet accessisavailable allover town,usu- ACCESSINTERNET Information backpackers. man Jhula,isasmallenclave popularwith westofRishikesh, Bank, Laksh- whileHigh bank, isthetraffic-free ‘spiritualcentre’ of only. Swarg Ashram, located ontheeastern bridges) thatcrosstheriver are pedestrian- are ensconced. Thetwo dation, ashrams,restaurants andtravellers Jhula bridges, where mostof theaccommo- JhulaandLakshman upstream aroundRam Ghat; andtheriverside communities2km aswelltheTriveniand trainstations (Rishikesh town),where you’llfindthebus the crowded,unattractive downtownarea Rishikesh isdividedintotwomainareas: Orientation 460 of theashrams. asdomany 6pm) Dilapidatedbutprovidesmedicalservices ( h 10am-1pm Sat) Near Triveni Ghat. 10am-1pm Sat)NearTriveni a few brochures andcanbooktours. located inthe samebuildingasthe GMVNYatra office; has Bypass Rd; % 9am-9pm) Surf withaview. 9am-9pm) Surf 2430626; LakshmanJhulaRd; UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Rishikesh (SwargAshram) h (SwargAshram; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat)Inconveniently (GhatRd; (SwargAshram;perhrRs30) (DehraDunRd) (LakshmanJhulaRd;perhrRs30; (LakshmanJhula;perhrRs15) h h Swarg Ashram&Dehra ( 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, % jhula ( h % 2430209; Dhalwala 9am-1pm &2- 2412081) The (suspension

liveliest partof upperRishikesh. has growninrecent years intothebusiestand sprawl onbothsidesof theriver here andthis Shops,evening. restaurants andguesthouses and chanting of inthemorningand devotees bridge andyou’llhearthebell-clanging itself, good timetophotographthetemples fromthe isanespecially spiritual commercialism.Sunset interspersed andtextile withjewellery shops – ens of shrinestoHindudeitiesoneach level, they resemble fairylandcastlesandhave doz- the organisation of theguruKailashanand, Niwas Swarg the huge 13-storey wedding-cake temples of Jhulahangingbridge to across theLakshman The definingimage of Rishikesh istheview &AROUND Sights &Activities year. Don’tswimoutof yourdepth. peopledrownherebeaches every mayseem, places, andasinvitingadipfromoneof the times females walkingalonemaybeatrisk. timesandinmodern the lawsincemedieval byfugitiveshave asadisguise from used been on genuine spiritualjourneys,theorange robes are –whilemanysadhus friended bysadhus Travellers shouldbecautiousof beingbe- Dangers &Annoyances the current can bedeceptively strong. to swim intheGangestemptation here as travellers escapingthecrowds.Resist the sheltered fromtheroadandpopular with Jhulaare sandy several Lakshman here and Jhula. Between from Lakshman path iseasytofind.Jeep costRs100 taxis andaroadside shrine, and thedrink stalls ofstart the15-minute walkismarked by Jhulabridge.3km northof The Lakshman An easywalktotwosmall WALKS &BEACHES ofsicians andthelighting candles. Niketan Ashram, withsinging, chanting, mu- held attheriverside temple of theParmarth Thecolourful set. ceremonies are andsun- performedatsunrise whereshops andthebathingghats religious Ashram Swarg Ganges leadstothespiritualcommunityof along thepathskirtingeastbankof the Jhula 2kmwalksouthofA pleasant Lakshman ASHRAM SWARG The current intheGanges isvery strongin and , madeupof temples, ashrams, Shri Trayanbakshwar Shri ganga aarti waterfalls lonelyplanet.com ceremony is . Builtby beaches starts ,

ὄὄ

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ὄὄ

ὄὄὄ (24km) Haridwar

& Bar (11km); Bar & Ganga Guerst House...... Guerst Ganga 50 30 Yatra & Local Bus Stand...... Bus Local & Yatra Triveni Travel Services...... (see 28) Services...... (see Travel Triveni E1 B3

To Midway Restaurant Midway To

Bhandari Swiss Cottage...... Swiss Bhandari 49 29 10 Taxi Stand...... Taxi State Bank of India ATM...... India of Bank State D1 D2 461 D1

27 Aggarwal House...... Aggarwal 28 9 State Bank of India...... of Bank State E1 B3 Taxi & Share Jeep Stand...... (see 30) Stand...... (see Jeep Share & Taxi

Koyalgati

48 SLEEPING Share-Jeep Stand...... Share-Jeep Red Chilli Adventure...... (see 21) Adventure...... (see Chilli Red A2

47 8 River ferry...... River otOfc...... D2 Office...... Post D1

4

Yoga Study Centre...... Study Yoga 46 27 7 Police Station...... Police Main Bus Stand...... Bus Main B4 D1 B3

Yoga Niketan Ashram...... Niketan Yoga TRANSPORT 26 6 Police Station...... Police C1 E1

Haridwar

Vina Maharaj Music School...... (see 21) School...... (see Music Maharaj Vina 5 Main Post Office...... Post Main C3

G

a

n

g

e Swarg Niwas Temple...... Niwas Swarg 45 25 4 Tulsi Restaurant...... Tulsi Centre...... E1 D1 E1 Rd

s ὄὄὄ

Ghat ὄὄὄ

R

i

v Sri Ved Niketan Ashram...... Niketan Ved Sri 44 24 Paradise Restaurant...... Paradise D2 E1 Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ayurvedic Yogi Mahesh Maharishi

Triveni

e

r

Sri Sant Seva Ashram...... Seva Sant Sri 23 3 GMVN Yatra Office...... Yatra GMVN Oasis Restaurant...... (see 29) Restaurant...... (see Oasis E1 A2

Shri Trayanbakshwar Temple...... Trayanbakshwar Shri 22 2

Restaurant...... (see 29) Restaurant...... (see Blue Hills Travels...... Hills Blue E1 D2

Mandir

46

Shivananda Ashram...... (see 18) Ashram...... (see Shivananda 1 Bank of Baroda ATM...... Baroda of Bank New Bhandari Swiss Cottage Swiss Bhandari New B3 Bharat

Red Chilli Adventure...... Chilli Red 43 21 INFORMATION Madras Café...... Madras D1 E1 5 Ghat Rd Ghat

Aarti...... 20 Lucky Restaurant...... (see 30) Restaurant...... (see Lucky D2

(24km) Little Italy...... (see 31) Italy...... (see Little Temple & Ganga & Temple Niketan Parmarth 9

Railway

To Haridwar To

Rd Parmarth Niketan Ashram...... Niketan Parmarth 42 19 Green Italian Restaurant...... Italian Green D2 D2

Station

Omkarananda Ganga Sadan...... Ganga Omkarananda 18 Great Ganga Restaurant...... (see 35) Restaurant...... (see Ganga Great D1 1

3

Train

ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ Om Rudra Cultural Society...... Cultural Rudra Om ὈὈ 17 Ganga Beach Restaurant...... (see 30) Restaurant...... (see Beach Ganga D2

16 Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram.. Yogi Mahesh Maharishi Flavors Restaurant...... (see 43) Restaurant...... (see Flavors D3

Guru Brahmashram...... (see 29) Brahmashram...... (see Guru 41 Devraj Coffee Corner...... Coffee Devraj E1

Lakshman Jhula Rd Jhula Lakshman

40 15 Chotiwala...... D1 C2 Division......

Restaurant...... (see 29) Restaurant...... (see GMVN Trekking & Mountaineering & Trekking GMVN Chandrabhaga

14 Bhandari Swiss Cottage Swiss Bhandari aha iaaa xlrtos.C2 Explorations.. Himalayan Garhwal

50

16

De-N-Ascent Expeditions...... De-N-Ascent EATING 13 E1

Adventure Journey...... Adventure 12

C1

(7km)

3

39 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES & SIGHTS Vasundhara Palace...... Vasundhara C2

Mahadev Temple Mahadev Rd

24

To Neelkantha To 38 Tapovan Resort...... Tapovan E1 Dehra Dun (43km) Dun Dehra

ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὈὈ

15 ὄὄ

Hospital (17km); Hospital Dehra Dun Dehra Uttarakhand Tourism Office...... (see 3) Office...... (see Tourism Uttarakhand 37 Omkarandanda Hotel...... Omkarandanda D1

To Himalayan Institute Himalayan To

14

UTI ATM...... UTI 11 New Bhandari Swiss Cottage....(see 29) Cottage....(see Swiss Bhandari New D1 River

Muni-ki-Reti

48

Mount Valley Mama Cottage..(see 29) Cottage..(see Mama Valley Mount 34 2

aga

Chand rabh

31

36 Jaipur Inn...... Jaipur E1

39

35 Hotel The Great Ganga...... Great The Hotel C1

Ashram

Tower

19

Swarg

34 Hotel Rajpalace...... Hotel D2 Dhalwala Bypass Rd Bypass Dhalwala Clock

42

33 Hotel Ishan...... Hotel E1

10

Rishilok

20 32 High Bank Peasants Cottage...... Peasants Bank High D1

17

8 2 Green View...... (see 31) View...... (see Green

11 31 Green Hotel...... Green D2 49

37

ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὈὈ 12 ὄὄ 35

40 6

26

7 18 43

4

44

47

(pedestrians only) (pedestrians

23

Laksh 28 (pedestrians only) (pedestrians Ram

Lakshman Jhula Lakshman

man man 30

36

1

Jhula Rd Jhula

33 Jhula •• Rishikesh (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND Temple

Lakshman Lakshman 25

13

22

41 38

Shivpuri (18km); Kaudiyala (39km) Kaudiyala (18km); Shivpuri

45 Yamunotri (257km) Yamunotri

(17km); Ananda Spa (18km); Spa Ananda (17km);

Bank

Gangotri (251km); Gangotri

A B C D E F

Neelkantha Mahadev Temple Mahadev Neelkantha

29 32 High

To Uttarkashi (151km); Uttarkashi To 21 To Waterfall (3km); Waterfall To

RISHIKESH 0 0.3 miles 0.3 0 0 500 m 500 0 lonelyplanet.com UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ‘Beatles Ashram‘Beatles Tour’(Rs100),runbyformer The bestwaytoappreciate itistotake the apparently wrote much of the wherethe guesthouse the and stayed Beatles includingMaharishi’s and ownhouse seen, cellsandlecturemeditation hallscanstillbe department, buttheshellsof manybuildings, is nowbackunderthecontrolof theforest Ashram Yogi what’s leftof theoriginal consumed bytheforest undergrowth, is Just southof Swarg Ashram, slowlybeing ASHRAM MAHARISHI the temple. costsRs600return. taxi Ajeep to Jhulaalsogoes road (17km)viaLakshman which turnedhisthroatblue. Amuch longer bygodsanddemons, churned upfromthesea name forShiva, whooncedrankpoison Ashram. (BlueThroat)isanother Neelkanth hour walkalongaforest pathfromSwarg at grims whotake water fromtheGanges tooffer 462 For alonger hike, followthededicated pil- accommodation hasfans, private bathrooms andhotwater. and bookshop,aswellahuge,pillarless meetinghallandaghatfacingthe Ganges.factory medicinesinging placedailyat5amand7.30pm theashramhasitsowncows,Ayurvedic take cal blueceilingwith eightsteps representing theseven holyrivers andthe sea. Meditation and mausoleumfeatures extraordinary whodiedin1966.His apyramidi- founded byHansjiMaharaj, medicines,publishbooks andliteratureAyurvedic orrunschools. ashrams trytobeself-sufficientmini-utopias–somegrowtheirownherbs thatare madeinto Everything –lodging, meals,religious –isusuallyfree, practice butadonationisexpected. Most and fewer foreigners. rules. aslongyouobeythestrict Youcanjoininwithashramactivities ashram, Haridwarhasseveral excellentashramswhere you’llbesurroundedbyseriousashramites inyoga,spiritualityandstayan topartake While mosttravellers abeelineforRishikesh make ASHRAM STAYS days toonemonth. established itsownuniversity andEnglish) runningfromnine andruns‘spiritualcamps’(inHindi laya. theforeigners Contact information.The ashramhas office(the‘AbroadCell’) forfurther followed by at5am accommodation. Itsuitsseriousstudentsofsadhanaasmeditationandmantras start thisisan inspirationalcommunity,foundedin1971,thatoffersthe roadtoRishikesh, simple peaceful with foreign guests. prohibited) andcasualguestsare welcome. MrDuttathehelpfulmanagerisusedtodealing from reception). alcoholandmeatare This ashram(althoughsmoking, isnottheusualstrict costs Rs150perhour(minimumtwo people).Veg mealsare available at Rs30(getacoupon andRs1500forasuite.double (Rs900withAC) DormbedscostRs 100.The hathayogatuition less midrangeaccommodation,includingmealsandclasses,isavailableat Rs 450to600fora Neelkantha Mahadev Temple Mahadev Neelkantha UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Rishikesh Sat Kunj Shanti Mha Ashram Mohyal Shri Prem NagarAshram

lawns, marble floors and a meditation and yoga hall with wonderful acoustics. Spot-lawns, marblefloorsandameditationyogahallwithwonderful . Itwasabandonedin1997and yagyar

( % (fire ceremony) and meditation inahalldominated byamodeloftheHima-

( 260602; www.awgp.org; Rishikesh Rd) 260602; www.awgp.org;Rishikesh % 261336; [email protected]; Rishikesh Rd; Rishikesh 261336; [email protected]; Maharishi Mahesh Mahesh Maharishi

, a7km,three- ( % White Album 226345; www.manavdharam.com;JwalapurRd) . Lakshman JhulaRd;rRs200-400,minimum3-daystay) comfortable rooms and specialises inIyengar roomsandspecialises comfortable Sadan nanda Ganga vedic massage andcooking. Thereand evening. are alsocourses inAyur- beginners (Rs70)rundailyinthemorning for bySwamiUmeshYogi.Sessions ganised areahead. Theyogaclasses mixed stylesor- ( Jhula, thelarge roomsat the spiritualvibe. are in yourself thebestwaystotrulyimmerse committing yourself toacourse. Ashram stays mendously, socheck outafew before classes this, andteaching andyogastylesvarytre- words here. Lotsof peopleare cashinginon areworld andyogameditation thebuzz ofRishikesh astheyogacapital the stylesitself MEDITATION, YOGA&ASHRAMS ( ashramite, Joshi. Contact % % Alarge ashramsetinbeautifulgardenson Overlooking theGanges inLakshman Overlooking Also ontheriver atMuni-ki-Reti, 2430465; rRs200-500; 2440166) in Lakshman Jhula. in Lakshman a

( ) % This intimate ashramhas i This large ashramwas 2430763; www.iyengaryoga.in; ) are popularsobook Lucky Helpline Services Lucky HelplineServices Sri Sant Seva Ashram SantSeva Sri lonelyplanet.com Omkara- has

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

463 is run

2433478; 8.30am-8.30pm; % 2442354; www.dna ( 2434425; rudradance@ h , attracting swamis closed Jun-Aug) % ( %

is currently the only is currently

( h Vina Maharaj Music School 2434021; www.redchil 653791; www.theadven % ( % ( offers sitar, tabla, harmonium offers 8am-8pm) Himalayan trekking and rafting h 9412029817) 2430799; www.gmvnl.com; Lakshman Jhula Rd; International Yoga Festival ) Reliable outfit offering trekking and rafting trips. 10am-5pm) Can arrange high-altitude treks in the 10am-5pm) Can arrange high-altitude treks Recommended rafting and trekking com- Recommended rafting and trekking De-N-Ascent Expeditions De-N-Ascent Expeditions Om Rudra Cultural Society In Lakshman Jhula, % % Festivals & Events Festivals & Events hosts Rishikesh February, week of In the first the from around the world for and yoga masters the action is Most of and lectures. discourses Adventure Journey Ramturejourney.com; Jhula) Rafting trips and a private rafting camp. Garhwal Himalayan Explorations GMVN Trekking & Mountaineering Division Red Chilli Adventure RAFTING, KAYAKING & TREKKING & TREKKING RAFTING, KAYAKING half-day companies offer A number of to multiday rafting trips, staying at rafting camps The official bank. rafting sea-along the river son runs from 15 September A to 30 June. trip starting 10km up- two- or three-hour starts Rishikesh and rafting back to stream a full day while Rs 400 per person, at about companies also offer costs from Rs 1250. Most to places such Himalayan treks all-inclusive ki Dun and Gangotri from Har as Kuari Pass, around Rs 2000 per day. -expeditions.com; Lakshman Jhula) kayaking lessons and expedi- place offering and Eskimo roll with an exper- tions. Paddle ienced instructor for Rs 800 a day. panies include the following: MUSIC & DANCE CLASSES Lakshman around flyers out for Look Jhula, CLASSES & DANCE MUSIC and HighBank advertising Ashram Swarg and concerts. music tuition Swarg Ashram; rediffmail.com; tabla Hindi lessons for Rs 900 or dance, flute, per week. ( ( h out trekking and hires equipment, guides and porters. Ask about the Nanda Devi Sanctuary trek. liadventure.com; Lakshman Jhula Rd; liadventure.com; i trips. river The company runs three camps – Ganga Nature Camp, the Himalayan Retreat and Himalayan Heights. www.garhwalhimalayas.com; Jhula Rd, Muni- Lakshman ki-Reti; and flute lessons at Rs 100 per hour and or- lessons at Rs 100 and flute ganises concerts. by an enterprising couple and offers Kathak Kathak couple and offers by an enterprising Shiv- cere- 2430279; include ) aarti is one of is one of % (

a Yoga Niketan Yoga Study Cen- Parmarth Niketan 9219510654; www.mukthi % (

at the end of the Swarg the Swarg at the end of 2430040; www.divinelifesociety.org; 2430040; www.divinelifesociety.org; •• Rishikesh (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND % is run by the Divine Life Soci- Divine Life is run by the ( Sri Niketan Ved Ashram 2430227; www.yoganiketanashram.org; Lak- 244008; www.parmarth.com; Swarg Ashram; is a branch of the -based the Bangalore-based of is a branch % % ( ( 2433837; off Haridwar Rd, Koyalgati)

has a wonderfully ornate and serene and serene has a wonderfully ornate % (

Dominating the centre of Swarg Ashram Ashram Swarg of Dominating the centre Founded by Swami Shivananda, the the Swami Shivananda, Founded by Behind Oasis Restaurant at High Bank, According to locals, the According to locals, the Stays at the rather austere Stays at the rather austere The large The large Motorcycles and mopeds can be hired for for Motorcycles and mopeds can be hired Rs 200 to 250 a day around the Lakshman you – no specific shops are There Jhula area. no so there’s owners, from private just hire insurance; ask around at guesthouses or look signs. for rental MOTORCYCLING MOTORCYCLING meditation courses and a variety of holistic meditation and a variety of courses therapies. gaagi.com) Mukthigaagi Foundation and specialises in spacious meditation and yoga hall offering spacious meditation and yoga hall offering hatha, , meditation and philoso- phy classes, and spartan rooms with private bathrooms. dm/s/d Rs 70/100/150) mony on the riverbank, the mony on the riverbank, and drawing visitors to its evening and drawing visitors Ashram A small ashram, it is on the river south of south of A small ashram, it is on the river the town. Rishikesh’s most highly regarded yoga schools yoga schools highly most regarded Rishikesh’s Iyengar yoga and runs two- and three-week for all levels (payment by donation). courses tre classes, and the meditation sessions, lectures serious the library. But it is only for use of staystudents – the minimum is 15 days and sharp. the day begins at 4.30am shman Jhula Rd; r Rs 250, with AC Rs 450; shman Jhula Rd; r Rs 250, with comfortable rooms, all meals, Ashram you want to stay the ashram through – email its website. ety. Yoga and meditation classes are available, meditationety. Yoga and available, classes are if is required advance notice but two months’ yoga classes – there are daily classes (except are yoga classes – there seven- to 10- intensive Rs 200) and Sunday; from October (Rs 750) on offer day courses to May. ananda Ashram lonelyplanet.com Guru Brahmashram Ashram road has a large inner courtyard, inner courtyard, road has a large Ashram garden courtyard. The price includes a room bathroom, all meals and hatha with a private yoga lessons. r Rs 500) Lakshman Jhula Rd) Lakshman Jhula UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) riswisscottage.com; rRs150-600,dwithAC800; riswisscottage.com; restaurant. commodation, amassage centre andagood large, popularplacewitharange of tidyac- 500-600, with ACRs1000-1200; 800 mountains. expansive viewsof theriver backed bygreen whereup youstay, thebigbalconies have upthehigher eral budgets –thepricegoes A backpacker favourite withroomsinsev- her famousthalis. it is.Mamma willlookafter youandcookup someone’s home–which ispretty much what anditfeels likesmall andsimpleguesthouse with shared bathroomRs120) up late conversations. and enjoyingdeep November toMarch withbackpackers staying It gets pretty from rowdyduringpeakseason spotalangurmonkeymight onyourbalcony. has somegoodaccommodationwhere you Jhulaand walk upthehillfromLakshman This leafytravellers’ enclave isa20-minute High Bank BUDGET see Forashram stays Bank. p462 . Jhula, andsomegoodbudget placesatHigh and directly acrosstheriver aroundRam there are ahandfulof hotels atSwarg Ashram sides of Jhula; theriver aroundLakshman Most of the accommodation isspread onboth Sleeping Swarg Ashram. centred ontheParmarth Niketan Ashram in 464 High BankPeasants Cottage High SwissCottage New Bhandari Cottage Mount Valley Mama Bhandari SwissCottage Bhandari The original ashramisnowabandonedbutnearly40yearson,idealisticforeigners wentonrecordIn later years,HarrisonandMcCartney assayingtherumourswere unfounded. disillusioned allofthem.‘Youmadeafooleveryone’ JohnLennon sangabouttheMaharishi. demandsformoneyandhisbehaviourtowardssomefemalethe Maharishi’s discipleseventually ashrams scattered alongtheGangesRiver. spiritualenlightenment fromtheteachers seeking andhealersintheirtranquilinto Rishikesh tons ofsongs,manywhichendedupontheirdoublealbum left after acoupleofweeks,buttheothersstayedformonthortwo. They relaxed andwrote George andhiswife Harrison.Ringo thevegetarian didn’tlike food,missedtheirchildren and Yogi’s ashraminSwarg Mahesh Ashram,at Maharishi followinganinterest andearliervisitby In February hitworldheadlineswhenthefour 1968Rishikesh stayed Beatles andtheirpartners THE MAHARISHI &THEBEATLES ai TAAHN UTRNHL • Rsieh UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Rishikesh ) Furtherupthehill,thisisanother The price is right atthis The priceisright

( % ai ( (

2432939; www.bhanda

% %

( % 2431322; dRs300- 2432817; dRs250, ) Despite the 2431167; d Rs ia )

and someroomshave views. excellentsunset looks theriver beach. andasandy Theterrace 350) riverside locationof thisbasicguesthouse. exactly spotlessbutyoucan’tbeatthepriceor liveliest partsof Rishikesh. sides of theriver here andthisisoneof the There are lotsof goodbudget optionsonboth Lakshman Jhula yoga sessions. chairs onthebalcony,spaciousroomsand accommodation withlovely gardens,wicker mostupmarket Bank’s name, thisisHigh short supply. Midrange andtop-endhotels are inrelatively MIDRANGE &TOP END tours andactivities. include ayogahallandtravel agent offering The rooftop terrace hasviewsandfacilities Small butwell-runhotel withcleanrooms. .com; sRs250-550,d450-650,s/dwithAC750/975; pricebrackets.in several a good-value butuninspiringrange of rooms around acourtyard,thisthree-storey hotel has 100-250, dRs200-650,withAC950; Hotel Green Ashram Swarg a primeview. andbalcony(Rs700)has floor roomwithTV with balconiesoverlooking theriver. Thetop- but hasawiderange of cleanrooms,some Jhulalooksabitrough, place nearLakshman r Rs200-700; Ganga GuestHouse Ganga Hotel Rajpalace Hotel Ishan Hotel Aggarwal House Aggarwal This small family-run guesthouse over- Thissmallfamily-runguesthouse i

Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( %

( ) Thislong-runningriverfront % White Album 2431242; www.hotelgreen.com; sRs

( 2431534; [email protected]; % ( %

2433435; sRs100-150,d150- ( 2440079; rajholidays@hotmail % 2435955; dRs150) . Butrumoursof a

still swarm Wrapped ) Not a

) UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

8am- 465 ) sit- Near South , h choti There are are There Up on the Up on the 249304; mains Rs 35- %

(meals Rs 20-80; (meals Rs (

(Ganga Guest House; meals Rs (Ram Jhula; meals Rs 20-80)

(meals Rs 20-120) (mains Rs 20-75) Elevated open 2433291; Ram Jhula; meals Rs 20-75)

(mains Rs 20-80) An awesome river-(mains Rs 20-80) An awesome % ( (Green Hotel; Swarg Ashram; meals Rs 25- (Green

(Swarg Ashram; meals Rs 20-60)

Devraj Coffee Corner There’s no real beach, but the riverside the riverside but beach, no real There’s Bakery items like brown bread with yak with yak brown bread like items Bakery With its prime position above the bridge the bridge position above With its prime

Wood-fired pizzas and imported pastas pizzas and imported Wood-fired Green Italian Restaurant Madras Café Flavors Restaurant Little Italy Tulsi RestaurantTulsi is a string the river On the east bank of Ganga Beach Restaurant Swarg’s original Italian restaurant also also original Italian restaurant Swarg’s side garden shaded by a huge tree and a cushioned area. and a cushioned area. side garden shaded by a huge tree Indian food, ice creams and sweet lime sodas Indian food, ice creams and coffee ranean dishes along with espresso tiramisu. 85) this make and cannelloni including gnocchi in the heart of restaurant small, glass-fronted popular. Swarg since 1958. They’re easy to spot by the rotund easy to spot since 1958. They’re mascots with the pointy hairdo (a up tasty South This local institution dishes and North Indian food, thalis, mushroom and the intriguing Himalayan curry, pancakes super-thick health pilau, as well as offering lassis. this new place also servesMadras, tasty In- continental a few dishes, soups, and dian veg offerings. 85) works hard to produce authentic Mediter- menu includes wood-fired pizzas and crepes. menu includes wood-fired little bamboo-lined main road, this is a funky lighting, good food and with soft restaurant music. occasional live to with global menus catering restaurants of Recommendations include: travellers. Lucky Restaurant RestaurantParadise JHULA & RAM SWARG ASHRAM Chotiwala – Chotiwalas side-by-side two open-fronted the original has beenserving up thalis LAKSHMAN JHULA JHULA LAKSHMAN o 9pm) Tray- Shri to across the river and looking spot this is a sublime temple, anbakshwar all and is usually busy breakfast for an early day. 30-80) chill- cushioned and location, spacious terrace big spot. The this a relaxing make out area dining area with a view. dining area ting out the front. cheese, croissants and apple strudel sit com- siz- fortably soups, pizzas and veg alongside door. next a good bookshop There’s zlers. ) ) Set Set as a •• Rishikesh (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND Spotless new new Spotless ) a 2442243; www.thegreat d Rs 1000, with AC Rs 1500)

% 2442345; www.vasundharapal (

2430713; www.omkarananda 2442091; www.tapovanresort.com; %

% ( ( 2434948; %

( % (

2440221; www.jaipur-inn.com;2440221; s/d Rs 850/900; %

( This immaculate hotel on the western on the western hotel This immaculate ) In a good location close to the bridge, the close In a good location to the bridge, ) Hotel the Great Ganga Green View Vasundhara Palace Vasundhara Tapovan ResortTapovan ellers’ restaurants whipping up various inter- restaurants ellers’ continental and Israeli food as of pretations well as Indian and Chinese. Virtually every restaurant in Rishikesh serves in Rishikesh Virtually every restaurant trav- lots of are but there food, only vegetarian blocked by equally new apartments. by equally blocked Eating pool and health spa with river views – views – pool and health spa with river views from the rooms are unfortunately the river has luxurious, tastefully designed designed tastefully has luxurious, the river and a rooftop rooms, an elegant restaurant ace.com; Muni-ki-Reti; s/d Rs 1950/2450, ste Rs 4500; this new place close top hotel, to Rishikesh’s Ganga Restaurant is recommended. and marble floors. The multicuisine Great The multicuisine Great and marble floors. in a complex of apartment blocks, this breezy apartment blocks, this breezy in a complex of views from the balconies, de- has great hotel road the side of being on the opposite spite bathtub, minibar Rooms have from the river. ganga.com; Ramganga.com; Jhula; s/d/ste Rs 1450/1650/4000; with hot showers and TVs.with hot showers about off- Ask season discounts. Next door to Green Hotel in Swarg Ashram, Ashram, in Swarg Hotel Next door to Green has bright rooms annexe upmarket this more -ashram.org; d Rs 750, with AC Rs 950; -ashram.org; d Rs 750, with AC Rs Ram south of just Jhula on the river hotel TV The bright, spacious rooms have bridge. and marble-lined bathrooms, and the upper- views across to Swarg rooms have floor AC Ashram. Ram Jhula & Other Areas Ram Jhula & Other Areas Omkarananda Hotel of character with its resort feel, but the rooms but the rooms feel, with its resort character of ones have expensive plush and the more are a pleasant views. There’s balconies with river a garden, yoga classes,terrace, and the unu- is recommended. sual circular restaurant ai Lakshman in the way side of Jhula lacks much Lakshman Jhula; s/d from Rs 1000/1250, ste Rs 1850-2000; Lakshman Jhula; s/d from Rs 1000/1250, hall can be used free of charge and the rooftop the rooftop and charge of hall can be used free 40 to 95) serves (meals Rs Ananda restaurant dish you want. just about any and balcony views make this a good choice – this a good choice views make and balcony The yoga floor front rooms. go for the upper a TVs décor, rooms with pastel clean and smart Lakshman Jhula Jhula Lakshman Jaipur Inn Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) with candlelit tables inthegardenandhang- with candlelittables from Rishikesh. thetable, See opposite of , fordetails buses year-round.and toJoshimath and Uttarkashi runnorth topilgrimageber), buses centres, Dun. Duringthe Dehra Dun;forMussoorie change atDehra There are regular toHaridwar buses and BUS Getting There&Away wearer. (mukhi) withdifferentShiva’s tears faces fell. Beads rudraksh tree, which originallygrew where rudraksh mala, man Jhula. Many stringsof sell beads, stalls there are alsoplentyof aroundLaksh- stalls jewellery andTibetan singingbowls,though ing, handicraftsandtouristtrinkets such as herbalmedicines,cloth- shops, Ayurvedic Swarg Ashram istheplacetogoforbook- Shopping a coldbeer. other nonveg favourites, washeddownwith chicken, uptandoori roganjoshand serves with artificialpond(paddleboatsandall)it road toHaridwar. Inaresort-style garden this place11kmsouthof Rishikesh onthe alcohol, grab a 11pm) &Bar Restaurant Midway AROUND RISHIKESH apple crumble. Israeli andTibetan. Great include desserts of worldcuisinesfromMexican andThaito ing lanterns oodles inside. Themenuransacks Rs 40-120) and sizzlers are hardtoresist. tea, pizzas breakfasts,rant. Theset Ayurvedic popular andinformalindoor/outdoorrestau- and somenonveg food,are available atthis 100) from Bhandari SwissCottage. It’sabout20malongapathnortheast evening. trance musicandDVDmovies showinginthe est restaurant inRishikesh, withcushions, Bank. on High Backpackers gatheratthepopularrestaurants HIGH BANK 466 New Bhandari SwissCottageRestaurant New Bhandari Bhandari SwissCottageRestaurant Bhandari Oasis Restaurant Allthefavourites, includingbakery items Ifyou’ve piningformeatand been UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••AroundRishikesh Therestaurant here ismore refined, confer different blessingsonthe madefromthenutsof the vikram yatra

(meals Rs20-100)

season (May season to Octo- (mains Rs80-250; orautorickshawto Theloungi-

(meals Rs40- h

(meals 11am- station, orattravelstation, agents aroundLakshman 460), DehraDun(Rs650)andUttarkashi handful of trainsrunsfromRishikesh to Jhula andSwarg Ashram forafee. Onlya fice Bookings canbemadeatthe TRAIN around toRishikesh. waterfalls andtemples. Byroadit’s16kmback ontheeastern bank,mainlyto a localservice (for Gangotri;Rs2000). bus stand. (Rs 25,onehour)leave fromnearthemain Dehra DunRd,andshare toHaridwar jeeps (Rs 40,onehour)canbepicked upalong in themorning.Share toDehra Dun jeeps hours),Joshimath (Rs250,eight mostlyearly (Rs170,fiveRd toUttarkashi hours) and ner of DehraDunRdandDhalwalaBypass Share leave jeeps whenoverfull fromthecor- SHARE JEEP&TAXI bus stand. Jhulaandatthemain pick upinLakshman Jhula, Swarg Ashram They Bank. andHigh can bebooked attravel agents inLakshman (Rs 250),Jaipur (Rs350)andPushkar450) US$850-1600; Rd;s/dfromUS$430/475, ste www.anandaspa.com; Badrinath the prize-winning Part palace, partexclusive, luxury sparesort, AROUND RISHIKESH one sideof theriver totheother. temple, butit’sa16kmtripbyroadtoget from take passengers towaterfalls andNeelkantha Ganges, andshare taxis hangaroundto jeeps Jhula. Ontheeastern bankoffrom Ram the bridges ortake the towalkacrossoneofeither need thesuspension 30. Toget totheeastern bankof theGanges you Jhulashould costRs downtown toLakshman Jhula (Rs8).Tohire theentire (Rs7)toLakshman turn-off Bank and theHigh Jhula(Rs8perperson) Rd junctionuppastRam Shared Getting Around go toHaridwar bybus. onatrainfromHaridwar orsleeper seat and Haridwar, a soit’susuallybetter toreserve Official taxi rates includeHaridwar taxi Official (Rs The taxi stand inSwarg stand AshramThe taxi provides

Private toDelhi deluxe buses andsleeper ( h vikrams 8am-6pm Mon-Sat,8am-2pmSun) ais run from the downtown Ghat runfromthedowntownGhat Ananda Spa ferry ) has been makingwaves hasbeen

(Rs 5; lonelyplanet.com h

( % reservation of- reservation vikram 7.30am-6.30pm) atthetrain 01378-227500; from from

UTTARAKHAND

(UTTARANCHAL) , 467 The

to the

(3790m), dharamsalas . Bhojbasa is . Bhojbasa 222221; dm Rs 150, %

( 222270; d from Rs 600) Bhojbasa 222271; dm/d Rs 150/700- (dm 240)

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Hotel . GMVN Tourist Bungalow Uttarkashi has plenty of budget hotels, the the hotels, budget Uttarkashiof has plenty is in a garden setting down by the river. 01377 / elev 3042m As the source of the Ganges (known as (known as the Ganges the source of As Buses depart in the morning for Gangotri GMVN Tourist Bungalow best being with a two-night at stop including has basic accommodation which a but from Gangotri temple, 14km (six hours) from the dramatic hours) only 5km (three Gaumukh Glacier. % setting at an altitude of In a grand, remote was originally con- Gangotri temple 3042m, by Gorkhastructed Singh commander Amar and Thapa in the 18th century. The brave an devout flow of a dip in the freezing take Nearby is the rock River. embryonic Ganges the received is said to have Shiva on which locks. Gangotri in his matted Ganga (Ganges) has guesthouses,village ashrams, and a d Rs 400-900) Deoprayag), until it reaches the Bhagirathi the holiest places in India. Gangotri is one of from Gangotri (38km return) The trek on the Gangotri road 3km north of town. north of on the Gangotri road 3km GMVN Tourist Rest House 990) (Rs 130, seven and Rishikesh (Rs 95, six hours) hours). GARWHAL TEMPLE TREKS Gangotri Temple & Gaumukh Glacier Trek source of the river at Gaumukh the river (the Cow’s source of days Mouth) and back can be done in three 222124; www %

( bus stand leave when full yatra •• Uttarkashi (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND , which trains many of the guides trains many of , which Badrinath (B) Dehra Dun (A) Delhi (A) Gangotri (B) Haridwar (A) Joshimath (B) 235 Kedarnath (B) 130/200 ord/deluxe 27 Nainital (A) 215 Uttarkashi (B) 17 200 (A) buses departing from the main bus stand 165 (B) buses departing from the 7 180 12 130 1½ 12 1 10 & 7am or 9am btwn 3am 12 11 every 30min 7am or 9am btwn 3am & 7 every 30min & 7am or 9am btwn 3am btwn 3am & 7am or 9am every 30min 7am or 9am btwn 3am & 1 morning daily (continuing from Ramnagar) Destination Fares (Rs) Duration (hr) Departures (Rs) Duration Fares Destination 01374 / pop 16,220 / elev 1158m BUSES FROM RISHIKESH FROM RISHIKESH BUSES The town is probably best known for the The town is probably Spa facilities include steam baths, Ayur- baths, Spa facilities include steam admission information. mountaineering and adventure courses are are courses mountaineering and adventure for details the website and open to all – check running trekking and mountaineering out- running trekking has a museum and The centre fits in India. outdoor climbing wall. Basic and advanced Nehru Institute of Mountaineering .nimindia.org) to break your journey and stock up on sup- to break Guides and porters plies at the local market. here. can also be arranged Gaumukh Glacier trek, so it’s an obvious place so it’s an obvious Gaumukh Glacier trek, Uttarkashi, 155km from Rishikesh and the Uttarkashi, 155km from Rishikesh town in northern Garwhal, is a major largest and the stop on the road to Gangotri Temple % is exclusive, so you need to be a guest to enjoy is exclusive, the spa facilities. UTTARKASHI stay in the modern rooms or in the grand in the palace itself. suites The resort vice-regal therapy, which are all wrapped in the tag of all wrapped in the tag of are therapy, which You can choose to a royal ‘wellness retreat’. vedic treatments, yoga sessions and beauty treatments, vedic jogging track, garden restaurants, an amphi- an jogging track, garden restaurants, and a swimming pool. theatre accommodation, a six-hole golf course, a a accommodation, a six-hole golf course, high up in the hills 18km north of Rishikesh, Rishikesh, high north of up in the hills 18km the the palace of of Ananda Spa occupies part out and spreads Tehri-Garwhal of Maharaja estate that includes luxury a manicured over and earning itself the reputation of being the of and earning itself the reputation Perched pampering. in indulgent ultimate lonelyplanet.com UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) hours), Mussoorie (Rs100, sixhours) and Hanuman Chatti. (www.gmvnl.com) oratthe grim’s guesthouses climb thatrequires skills. mountaineering beyond thetemple, butthisisavery tough atanaltitudeof mountain 4421m,1km Parvat frozen lake of iceandglaciers onthe Kalinda as andricetoofferwhere pilgrimscookpotatoes springs where youcantake adipandothers in aroundthetemple andthere are hot several notri Temple close mountains (3185m).High From here it’sa5km,two-hourtrek to Yamu- and 1kmawayisapretty village, Kharsali. man Chatti(2400m).There are hotsprings Janki Chatti,7kmbeyondthevillage of Hanu- an easytrek in. temples, but onceyouget tothetrailheadit’s ofand soleastdeveloped theCharDham For pilgrimsYamunotri istheleastvisited sacred riversecond-most after theGanges. to thesourceof theYamuna, ’s nestlesinavalleyclose elev 3185m Trek Temple Yamunotri Gangotri andUttarkashi. 2pm. Share (Rs150)alsorunbetween jeeps hours). Thelastbusleaves Gangotriataround (Rs 90,sixhours) andRishikesh (Rs215,12 468 The trek beginswhere theroadendsat runfromGangotritoUttarkashi Buses prasad Buses run from Dehra Dun (Rs 120, eight run fromDehra Dun (Rs 120,eight Buses Accommodation isavailable inbasicpil- Gangotri and Badrinath temples can be visited without having to undertake atrek. Gangotri andBadrinathtemples canbevisited without havingtoundertake andnotagoodideafortourists. visitingeachoneinturnverywhich makes Only time-consuming (see www.chardham.com).Butallthetemples are attheendoflongvalleys, deepintheHimalaya a10-daybus/taxitourisRs7630/9850.Private toursare FromRishikesh Rishikesh. alsoavailable Temple &ManaVillage ( p471 ). Gangotri Temple GlacierTrek ( &Gaumukh p467 Temple), Kedarnath Trek ( below need foraguideorcarryingsupplies. Formore informationseeYamunotri Temple) andBadrinath Trek ( below ), and government rest houses. As aresult, gettingtothesetemples iseasyenoughwithoutthe networkofbudgetguesthouses,ashrams alongwithawell-established on handfortransport, tourism isbigbusinessandnumerousbuses,share poniesandpalanquinsare jeeps,porters, datesthe exact thatthetemples are openare announcedeachyearbylocalpriests. Religious November treks hundreds – theseimportant ofthousandsdedicated pilgrimsmake Hindu and theAlaknanda(Badrinath).Every yearduring the four sacred rivers, theYamuna (Yamunotri), (Kedarnath) theGanges (Gangotri),theMandakini The Char DhamofGarwhalrefers tothefourancienttemples thatmarkthespiritualsourcesof THE CHAR DHAM UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) Temple ••Garwhal Treks The . TheYamuna River emerges froma GMVN atYamunotri, Janki Chatti and

(www.gmvnl.com) GMVN tourist lodges GMVN tourist runs a range of Char Dham packages fromDelhi,Haridwarand runs arangeofCharDhampackages

elusive snow leopardabove 3500m. the toglimpse beluckyenough You might Govind Wildlife Sanctuary &NationalPark Wildlife Sanctuary Govind as and snowypeaks.Thearea ispreserved streams andsurroundedbypristineforests byglacial crisscrossed paradise is abotanical The wonderfullyremote Har kiDun(3510m) Har kiDunValleyTrek ing tothenextCharDhamstop,Gangotri. (Rs60,sixhours)head- to Uttarkashi forthose Chatti duringthe Rishikesh hours) (Rs180,eight toHanuman dakini River, but thismagnificent temple is Kedarnath isrevered asthesourceof theMan- % Trek orshareother buses jeeps. the way,goasfaryoucanandthen catch you cannotfindabusorshare goingall jeep 250) fromGandhiChowkinMussoorie. If hours) orashare (vehicle/seat Rs2500/ jeep busy duringJuneandOctober. Glacier takes another day.Thetrek canbe Rs 500/50)toTaluka. Aside-triptoJamdar two daysifyoutake ashare (vehicle/seat jeep hike toHar kiDunwhich takes three days–or It’sa38km campinthevalleyitself. or else have inaForest tostay Departmentrest house 150/450) and there are foreigner upto3daysRs30/350,subsequent20/175) To get to Sankri, take a bus (Rs 120, nine To get toSankri,take abus(Rs120,nine The trailbeginsatSankri(alsocalledSaur), 01364 /elev3584m yatra at Sankri,Taluka andOsla, butyou (pilgrimage)seasonfromAprilto GMVN Tourist Bungalows GMVN Tourist yatra season. Buses alsorun Buses season. lonelyplanet.com

(dm/d Rs

(Indian/ .

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

469 10am- h Himalayan Eskimo Ad- that accepts

222181; Below , Below Kamet, %

( which can organise can organise which

222344; fax 222575; dm Rs 180, churning out tasty thalis churning % 222155; Main Bazaar; d Rs 250-500) (

222252; www.himalayansnowrunner (snacks Rs 35-80) % (

dhaba % ( 222630; [email protected])

Right behind Kamet but more but more Right behind Kamet located just above the town (fol- just above located GMVN Tourist Office % ( , in the main market, offers similar service offers , in the main market, The town itselfThe town adminis- a rather ugly is Hotel Kamet Hotel Snow Crest Treks of anything from two to 10 days can anything of Treks Mawari Hotel trative centre full of rusting rooftops, erratic erratic rusting rooftops, full of centre trative eat, but places to and limited power supply Uttara-it’s a good base of some to organise Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Although road up to Joshimath is the main maintained by the Indian Army, and a hydro- electric plant on the way to Badrinath has im- around Joshimath that road, the area proved is inevitably prone to landslides, particularly There are lots of cheap lodgings and a few and a few lodgings cheap lots of are There around Joshimath. scattered hotels option. Slightly worn Good central budget TVrooms have hot water. and bucket d Rs 700-1450) clean and cosy, are the rooms here upmarket, brightest. if a little small. The front rooms are serving a good restaurant There’s a vegetar- North and South Indian and ian menu of by reduced usually are Chinese. The rates a and June, and there’s 40% except in May dorm. 10-bed this is a busy and dosas. foreign cards. foreign at the tourist office about Ask be arranged. or try hiring guides and porters ventures near the GMVN Hotel, and rock-climbing expeditions from treks equipment (for rent Rs 1000 per day, and white- as offer and skiing), as well trekking rafting trips on the Ganges. water Snow Runner .com) also takes at higher prices. The owner, Ajay, Garhwali villages and to Bhotia cultural tours in the region. Sleeping & Eating khand’s best treks. Auli – with spectacular Auli – with spectacular khand’sbest treks. Nanda Devi above – standsviews of directly cable by a 4km can be reached Joshimath and car ). ( p470 Information a There’s 5pm Mon-Sat) India ATM a State Bank of there’s low the road past the cable-car station)low the road past the cable-car and

GMVN which which

, GMVN Tourist •• Joshimath (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND . Stalls store . Stalls store Gaurikund has been established The actual source of the of The actual source 01364-263228; dm Rs 150, d Rs % ( 269202; dm/d Rs 150/600) and chai stalls. and chai % (

. dhabas

01389 / pop 13,202 / elev 1845m The whole area is a wildlife sanctuary and is a wildlife The whole area The tough 14km uphill trek to the temple to the temple The tough 14km uphill trek The temple was originally built in the 8th built in the 8th was originally The temple

Buses run from Gaurikund to Rishikesh (Rs Buses run from Gaurikund to Rishikesh There is more pilgrims’ accommodation is more There musk deer breeding farm Bungalow and Kuari Pass. As such it’s a major destina- it’s a major such As and Kuari Pass. tion for Hindu and Sikh pilgrims as well as trekkers. ramshackle two-street town that servesramshackle two-street as the , to Auli ski resort, gateway Kund Hem Flowers, of to the Valley and treks leys for the final few hours, Joshimath is a Joshimath hours, leys for the final few % mountain road by a hair-raising Reached hugs steep-sided that val- from Rishikesh JOSHIMATH JOSHIMATH rayag for connections to Joshimath, Badrinath Kumaon district. and the eastern 165, 12 hours), or you can use share jeeps to can use or you share 165, 12 hours), the same journey. Getmake off at Rudrap- 400-950) available near the temple, including the near the temple, available Tourist Bungalow with big ears have been hunted to the brink been hunted have with big ears extinction. of at Khanchula Kharak,at Khanchula 32km from Gopeshwar on the road to Ukhimath. These tiny deer The wide, paved trail to the temple is lined trail to the temple The wide, paved with a luggage, and porters and ponies can be hired. ponies can be hired. and and porters luggage, on a pony) and begins at on a pony) and begins has basic accommodation and a from one of the cliffs behind the temple in the cliffs in the temple from one of behind instantly attaining (lib- the hope of eration). hours foot (five on six hours (3584m) takes cious that pilgrims used to throw themselves cious that pilgrims used to throw themselves is superb, but Kedarnath attracts 100,000 attracts 100,000 is superb, but Kedarnath means plenty of pilgrims every year which is so auspi- The site people, noise and litter. century by Guru Shankara, who is buried who is buried century by Guru Shankara, scenery The surrounding behind the shrine. is 12km past Kedarnath. River Mandakini visited: the arms at ; the face at at Tungnath; the the arms visited: and at Madmaheshwar; the navel Rudranath; the hair at Kalpeshwar. worshipped at the other four Kedar at the other four Panch worshipped be but can hard to reach are shrines, which primarily dedicated to the hump that Shiva that Shiva to the hump dedicated primarily bull) left behind a form of the taken (who had to escape the into the ground when he dove are body Shiva’s Other portions of Pandavas. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) of the chairlift, there are noviewsfrom the .com; dmRs150-200,huts Rs900,d1400) rooms here butthefour-person dorms are lessons. both hire outskiequipmentandprovide ski There’s acaféof sortsatthetop. Joshimath totheupperslopesabove Auli. h math. instruction canbearranged here orinJoshi- January toMarch andequipmenthire and runsfrom issuperb.Theseason the setting The snowisconsistently and good,though, which connectstheupperandlowerslopes. main slope,andan800mchairlift (Rs200) tow (Rs100pertrip)which runsbesidethe with gentle 5km-longslopes,one500mrope car station. views of fromthetopof NandaDevi thecable have tovisitinwinter toenjoytheawesome is India’spremier skiresort. Butyoudon’t only 4kmbythegondola-stylecablecar–Auli Rising above Joshimath,14kmbyroad–and % Auli AROUND JOSHIMATH changesseveral enroute. arebuses few, soexpect tomake however, hours) hours). orAlmora(Rs130,eight Direct the slow-going route toKausani (Rs65,five andsharelocal buses cantake youalong jeeps Karnaprayag (Rs65,3½ hours), fromwhere Kumaon region take anyRishikesh busto you canalsobooktickets. Toget totheeastern GMOU booth and 7am.Theyleave fromoutsidethetiny 4am halfhourbetween hours) every roughly 200, 10hours) andHaridwar (Rs230,11½ Hem Kund. the wonderfulValley of Flowers anddramatic toGovindghat, ofbuses thestart thetreks to check timesthedaybefore. Take thesame at 6.30am,9am,11.30am,2pmand4.30pm– temple departingfromJoshimath Badrinath system) to convoy (duetoaone-waytraffic (Rs 50perperson, runin Rs500perjeep) of August. frommid-Junetotheend in therainyseason 470 There are atAuliand twoplacestostay The state-of-the-art runfromJoshimathtoRishikeshBuses (Rs GMVN Tourist Rest House Rest GMVN Tourist As askiresort, Auliishardlyspectacular, (Rs35,twohours)Buses andshare jeeps every 20min8am-6.50pm) every 01389 /elev3019m UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••AroundJoshimath

(Upper BazarRd, , India’slongest, links cable car

( h % 4am-8pm) 223208; www.gmvnl

At the start Atthestart (return Rs400; , where continues foranother5km.Tracksare easy the ticket thefabledvalleybeginsand office, 1km fromGhangariavillage. Just2kmfrom of flowers inSeptember. there’s stillagoodchance acarpet of seeing here and canbeexperiencedatanyseason, But thepeaceandbeautythatSmythefound andhazardous. the rainsmake accessdifficult inJulyandAugustwhen season fortunately mostflowers bloomduringthe that maysoonbeaWorldHeritage site. Un- unique andvaluablepharmaceuticalresource all year. have glaciers andsnowdecoratingtheirpeaks which 6000mmountains framed bymighty on asunnyday,ripplinginthebreeze, and (bugyal) human spiritmayfindrepose.’ Themeadows amore beautifulvalleywherenot seen the wandering,’hewrote, ‘Ihavemy mountain upon theValley of Flowers in1931.‘Inall FrankSmythestumbled British mountaineer HEM KUNDTREK VALLEY OFFLOWERS& available. MealsDevi. andall-inclusive skipackages are spacious rooms,somewithviewsof Nanda timber interior finish, cosyatmosphere and out of placeintheSwissAlps with itssolid 4500, steRs6000-8000) studioRs2600- 011-25616679; www.nivalink.com/clifftop; and bar. cosy inside(read: tiny).There’s arestaurant cheapcertainly andtheflimsyhutsare quite hotels andrestaurants, hundreds of ponies,a est with a busymarket, ahandful of budget one-street village inawonderfuldeodarfor- ride upthe6kmzigzag track. Ponies (Rs350)are available ifyouprefer to runsfromaround 1JunetoOctober.season have inaprevious meditated life. Thepilgrim to isbelieved guru,GobindSingh, the Sikh the 4300m the hundreds of pilgrims toilingupto Sikh Ghangaria. (or atHem Kund)soallvisitors in muststay to follow.Noovernight ispermitted here stay 20/175; (Indian/foreigner for3daysRs40/350,subsequent The 300speciesof flowers make thevalleya Cliff TopClubResort Also calledGovinddham, The 87-sq-km A tougher trekA tougher fromGhangariaistojoin h of wildflowers tall are aglorious sight 6am-6pm, lastentry3pm) Hem Kund Valley ofFlowersNationalPark Thishotel wouldn’tlook , thesacred lake where

( % 01389-223217; inDelhi starts lessthan starts lonelyplanet.com Ghangaria isa

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) In 471 9412935549; r Rs 400) 222267; www.sarovarhotels % (

% ( A sign of the times and the A sign of

Jagirdar Guest House From the large bus stationthe entrance at From the large Auli can be reached by bus or cable car Auli can be reached Sarovar Portico lage and is a 4km hike along the river. The river. along the is a 4km hike and lage warmer and to somewhere migrate villagers where buses run to Joshimath or southwest where Haridwar. and to Rishikesh World Heri- breathtaking The 630 sq km of NANDA DEVI SANCTUARY TREK up this sanctuary scenery that makes tage was closed in 1983, but recently to all visitors Curzon’s party abandoned its attempt on the its attempt Curzon’s party abandoned wild bees), an attack following the trek pass of was popular in (3640m) Kuari Pass the over Uttarakhand’sthe Raj era and is still one of affording finest and most accessible treks, peaks the snow-clad magnificent views of around Nanda Devi. The trailhead is at Auli water- to Ghat past lakes, and the 75km trek takes meadows and small villages falls, forests, days, though it’s possible to do a shorter five days. A in three in Tapovan finishing version supplies are guide and your own food tent, can easily be organised which necessary, all of in Joshimath. jeeps (Rs from Joshimath. From Ghat share go to Nandaprayag, from 35, 1½ hours) guesthouses are generally discounted to Rs discounted generally guesthouses are short peak season100 a room outside the of and June. May place ac- this is a good budget from the temple, You can camp here. customed to travellers. .com; s/d Rs 3500/4000) this flashy pilgrims’ pockets, deepening of seems place highnew hotel in a little out of comfortable, though Rooms are the Himalaya. a and there’s not luxurious, centrally heated good restaurant. KUARI PASS TREK Also known as the Curzon Trail (though Lord less remote – usually Joshimath – between – usually Joshimath remote less and April. November to Badrinath and buses run to Govindghat departure scheduled but check Joshimath may end up stranded. times or you Sleeping & Eating Badrinath a day from Joshi- in can be visited place to spend the night math, but it’s a serene places to stay and eat plenty of are and there season. during the pilgrimage Budget here a stone building across the river about 100m the river a stone building across

gurd- with with is one of is one of , and nearby is Badrinath Temple Badrinath Temple Nature Interpretation shows a film nightly shows a film where VIP rooms are VIP rooms are where Vyas Temple , which is crammed with, which can be seen from the vil- 01381-225226; d Rs 500-600) you can stay at the huge you can stay at the huge •• Badrinath & Mana Village (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND % ( (d with private bathrooms Rs 250)

, a natural rock arch over a river a river over , a natural rock arch 3-8pm, 1 Jun-5 Oct) Mana village h (

Govindghat (payment by donation)

01381 / elev 3133m A very scenic 3km walk beyond BadrinathA very All buses and share jeepsAll buses between Joshi- and share Ghangaria is a scenic but strenuous 14km, 14km, a scenic but strenuous Ghangaria is

Just outside the village in a small cave is the in a small cave Just outside the village At Hotel Priya Vasudhara WaterfallVasudhara Bhima’s Rock The 145m tale is told in the Mahabharata. tiny, 5000-year-old tiny, 5000-year-old been made by Bhima, that is said to have whose brothers, the Pandava of strongest blankets and jerseys are all on sale. are and jerseys blankets the sheep or play cards or carom. Carpets (Rs ones), Rs 2000 for bigger 150 for a small square, the village ladies knitting colourful jerseys or ladies knitting colourful jerseys the village or carpets while the men tend blankets weaving conies. You can wander around and watch conies. You can wander around and watch narrow stone laneways and traditional houses walls and slate varying designs – some have of bal- cute wooden with are while others roofs ided by dry-stone walls leads to tiny but char- ismatic that reach a scalding 40°C. that reach and past fields div- along the century, but the current structure is much is much structure century, but the current Below hot springs recent. are the temple more and most popular of the Char Dham temples. temples. the Char Dham and most popular of in the 8th It was founded by Guru Shankara rounds it. Sacred to Lord Vishnu, this vividly to Lord Vishnu, rounds it. Sacred is the most easily accessible temple painted of snow-topped Nilkantha, snow-topped Nilkantha, of that sur- almost lost in the tatty village appears % Basking in a superb setting in the shadow transport in either direction. BADRINATH & MANA VILLAGE math and Badrinath stop in Govindghat math and Badrinath stop in Govindghat can easily get times locally), so you (check very clean rooms and meals available. very Hotel Bhagat wara porter (Rs 350) or a pony (Rs 400). The return 400). The return (Rs 350) or a pony (Rs porter hours. four to five trip takes seven-hour uphill trek from Govindghat, but from Govindghat, seven-hour uphill trek economy by hiring a you can help the local the better places to stay, places thoughthe better it’s not very bedding plenty of you have sure good. Make as nights can be freezing. Centre Centre Flowers. of Valley at 7pm on the pharmacy and a doctor. Water and electricity and electricity Water and a doctor. pharmacy erratic. The are supplies lonelyplanet.com basic but have private bathrooms, or the new bathrooms, private basic but have UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) spired theIndia-wideProject Tiger pro- boars and jackals. The Ramganga Reservoir Reservoir boars and jackals.TheRamganga ger monitorlizards,wildcrocodiles, gharials, ing deer. alsosee Youmight leopards, mug- (spotted sambars, hog deer), andbark- deer ters typesof including chital andseveral deer face andbackside),peacocks,schools of ot- rhesus(black face,longtail), macaques(red in thereserve), sloth bears, langur monkeys life includewild elephants (200to300live River.the Ramganga wild- Commonlyseen location inthefoothillsof theHimalayaon forestsal andriver andabeautiful habitats, variety of wildlife and birdlife ingrassland, appointed, as the1318-sq-km ser ious wildlife enthusiastswillleave dis- ofsearch water. forest cover islowandanimalscomeoutin (Apriltomid-June)whenthe in theseason Your bestchance of spottingatiger islate are neitherbaitedin thereserve nortracked. ings are down tochance asthe130orsotigers creation sight- However, of 22otherreserves. gramme whichthe in1973andsaw started than withhisgun. shoteventually more wildlife withhiscamera atastehad developed forhumanflesh,buthe vered bylocalpeopleforshooting tigers that Kumaon the mapwithhisbook Corbett (1875–1955),whoputKumaonon 1957 after thelegendary tiger hunter, Jim NationalPark,Ramganga itwasrenamed in Originally calledHailey NationalPark, then lished in1936asIndia’sfirst nationalpark. famous This % CORBETT TIGERRESERVE an Indianprison. you wanttoexperiencelivingconditionsin Joshimath, butdon’ttryitonyourownunless Village, near AccessisviaLata the sanctuary. treks notactuallyvisit ‘Nanda Devi’ might ted todothetrek butcheck carefully assome private trekking companiesare alsopermit- 54km trek atRishikesh. and start Approved for groupsof three tofive, which involves a nine-day trek (Rs2583perperson perday) and 31October. GMVNhasanall-inclusive 1Mayfabled Himalayanwonderbetween 20 visitors are aweek allowedinsidethis small-group treks have permitted. Only been 472 owtsadn tgr ihig, few sightings, tiger Notwithstanding in- JimCorbettestablished The reserve 05947 /elev400-1210m UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••CorbettTiger Reserve . TheBritishhunter wasgreatly re- reserve (

h 15 Nov-15Jun) The Man-Eaters of

park hasa wasestab- h h stand. Therestand. isanother almostopposite thebus road inRamnagar, between 15JuneandNovember,between thejun- The main Orientation &Information danda Gate. day) amonthearlyon15October fromAm- (amaximumofday safaris 60vehicles per nagar. openingfor In2004,theparkstarted and elephantridescanbeorganised inRam- remains sa openallyear,andshort jeep faris nagar inthesouthernpartof thereserve, gle aroundJhirnaGate, 25kmfromRam- isnowa of Ramnagar, atKaladhungi,his formerhouse 26kmeast you’re interested inthelife of JimCorbett, mosquito repellent andmineralwater. If can hire thematparkgates) andplentyof for wildlife. which youcanclimbtounobtrusively watch towers) overlooking waterservation holes spotted here. of March andover 600specieshave been especially frommid-Decembertotheend attracts large numbers of migratingbirds, basis. at 6amand 4pmonafirst-come first-served Gairal andJhirnaGate Dhikala, Khinnanauli, passengers perelephant Rs150/250) entrance. and arestaurant tothereserve andisclose nagar), which hasaninterpretative centre the Bijranivisitorcentre (11kmfromRam- free at7pm.Day-trippers are restricted to library andwildlife films are shown here for ception centre atRamnagar. Dhikalahasa or aspartof atourbooked there- through area, but itisonlyopentoovernight guests, commodation centre withinthepark’score isthemainac- insidethereserve, and deep Dhikala), 18kmnorthof Ramnagar. andDhangarhi Gatenorth of (for Ramnagar danda Gate (forBijrani est railheadandhasplentyof forhire. jeeps isthenear-ern edge of Ramnagar thereserve. h While themajority of theparkisclosed Dotted aroundtheparkare Two-hour Dhikala, 51kmnorthwestof Ramnagar The mainentrypointsfortheparkare Am- Be sure tobringbinoculars youBe (although 8am-5pm) 8.30am-noon &1-5pm) 8.30am-1pm &2-5pm) reception centre reception . elephant safaris atKotdwar,onthewest- islocated onthemain

centre visitor centre), 1.5km museum

( % are available at 251489; Ranikhet Rd; 251489; Ranikhet

lonelyplanet.com ( (Indian/foreigner 4 % machaans

(admission Rs10; 01382-224823; (ob-

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

(r

011- can can 473 % ( New Forest (Rs 2600)

The Annexe KMVN , the ) Ramnagar’s top cabins 0135-2744225; r Rs a Chief Wildlife Warden Chief Wildlife % ( (r Rs 3000) (Ranikhet Rd; meals Rs 20-130)

(r Rs 1200) Also has a good loca- and two 254385; Ranikhet Rd; s/d Rs 200/350) 251755; [email protected]; Ran- (s/d Rs 600/1200) The first place in (s/d Rs 600/1200) The first place (r Rs 1200) On the Ramnagar River in Dehra Dun. in Dehra Dun. % (

% (

(r Rs 2600)

in Delhi. can be booked through can be booked 0135-2644691) Corbett Inn Govind Restaurant Hotel Anand If you’re after VIP accommodation, the the VIP accommodation, after If you’re % from Amdanda Gate; meals and elephant rides available. 2000) Near Dhikala, deep in the reserve. NORTH OF RAMNAGAR NORTH OF RAMNAGAR strung along are resorts a dozen upmarket Half the Ramnagar–Ranikhet road that runs along the the reserve’s boundary, and given eastern at Dhikala, these accommodation are cost of the well worth considering. When most of reserve is closed (15 June to 15 November) clean rooms with bucket hot water and TV, hot water clean rooms with bucket windows although some rooms only have is worth try- The restaurant onto a corridor. ing (meals Rs 30 to 60). It’s about 100m from the bus stand. ikhet Rd; d Rs 590, with AC RS 990; with balconies has clean, spacious rooms hotel who can and a helpful manager or verandas, is open safaris.help organise The restaurant when the reserve is. Although inside, the food is good a bit gloomy thalis (Rs with monster and the menu huge and tasty chicken 60 to 90), biryani, butter stuffed tomatoes. Bijrani Rest House Gairal Rest House Sarapduli Rest House Khinnanauli Rest House RAMNAGAR the park, RamnagarAt the southeast corner of is the main service it has a few town and while and transport restaurants facilities, hotels, connections – mostly along Ranikhet Rd – it’s a dusty, unappealing place. places with the budget This is the best of Old Forest Rest House Rest House throughthe be booked ( Rs 1200) IN THE RESERVE ELSEWHERE houses Rs 600) in the park (all Small rest Lohachaur, Sultan Mailini, at Kanda, are Sendhikal,Morghatti, Mudia- Halduparao, pani, Rathuadhab, Gate Dhela, near Jhirna Other places: and Kalagarh. tion in the reserve’s area. core accessed from Dhangari Gate; meals available. 23350481) at (dm Indian/ Reserve •• Corbett Tiger (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND offer the best offer Log Huts

(Rs 2400) (Indian/foreigner Rs 600/1200) (Indian/foreigner offer 24 basic beds (no bedding offer Dhikala Tourist Hutments

Jeeps or the smaller Maruti Gypsies can be Gypsies can or the smaller Maruti Jeeps

Fishing permits (along the Ramnagar River During the season (Indian/ the entry fee Ramnagar (per cafés internet of has a couple supplied). DHIKALA DHIKALA train sleepers, Resembling 3AC Rs 100/200) foreigner between Dhikuli and Dhangari Gate. while upmarket resorts are strung out along strung out along are resorts while upmarket the park side of the road skirting the eastern arranged to stay within the park. The town to stay the park. The town within arranged Ramnagarof accommodation, has budget except where indicated. Book ahead as space ahead as space Book indicated. except where accommodation and you must have is limited eigners – Indians pay less than half. Book – Indians pay less than half. Book eigners in Ramnagar centre through the reception Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating viewing, Dhikala, deep For serious wildlife inside the reserve, is the best place to stay, the highdespite Rates prices. for ac- given for for- commodation inside the reserve are The reception centre in Ramnagar centre runs a daily The reception bus tour to outside the park) can be obtained at the recep- tion centre. Tours prices at the reception centre and your hotel and your hotel centre prices at the reception hiring a jeep. This means a full-day before safari for two people including an elephant ride costs Rs 3000. cost around Rs 600 per jeepcost around Rs 600 per or Rs 1200 for Check entry fees. a full day, excluding the hired in Ramnagar. Half-day safaris should in Ramnagar. hired Dhikala, and a compulsory guide fee (Rs 150) (Rs guide fee Dhikala, and a compulsory must also be paid. foreigner Rs 50/450) covers three days. The three Rs 50/450) covers foreigner jeepRs 150 at is Rs 100 at Bijrani and fee vember, day visits are permitted through Am- permitted day visits are vember, (Rs 200 plus jeep and guide fees; danda Gate 3pm to 5.30pm). open 6.30am to 11am and to Bijrani. In the off-seasonto Bijrani. In to 15 (15 June through Jhirna you can only enter November) to 15 No- However, 15 October from Gate. Entry permits are bought for Gate at Dhangari are Entry permits trips for day at Amdanda Gate Dhikala and PERMITS & COSTS & COSTS PERMITS hr Rs 30), and a State Bank of India ATM. Bank30), and a State hr Rs of Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book accommodation in Dhikala and sleep up to six restaurants. Dhikala has a couple of people. 8.30am. UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) it’s anattractive, upbeatplace foundedby greenaround the deep, volcanic lake Naini, forested Occupyingasteep seasons. valley ing familiesandhoneymooners duringpeak resort, getsNainital crowdedwith holiday- Kumaon’s largest townandfavourite hill % NAINITAL destinations, change at Moradabad. 9.30pm, arrivinginDelhiat4.40am. Forother at 5am.Thereturn at tripleaves Ramnagar leaves Delhiat10.15pm,arrivinginRamnagar bett Link Express the mainreception centre. The nightly run toHaldwani (Rs32,twohours). and somecontinuetoAlmora. Frequent buses leave coupleof every hours inthemorning (Rs72,4½hours) toRanikhet ladhungi. Buses (Rs64,3½hours)Nainital take abusviaKa- hours). For and DehraDun(Rs142,seven hours), Haridwarseven (Rs108,sixhours) runalmosthourlytoDelhi(Rs143, Buses Getting There&Away and ecotourismactivities. 12km northof Ramnagar. Plentyof recreation and thatched restaurant atthisqualityresort, garden isrelaxing andthere’s apoolsidebar ous ochre cottages offer privacy,theriverside cottagesRs5750-6750; .com; Dhikuli; medical care andwater toregional villagers. wildlifethat raises awareness andprovides foundation.org), anonprofit eco-organisation founded theCorbettFoundation(www.corbett of fish. goldenmahseer Theresort owner onto theKosiRiver, hordes where youcansee and aswimmingpoolinlovely gardenbacking withrestaurantrooms, aroundhouse andbar, as ture walksandvillage tours are offered. and bungalowshave allthefacilities,andna- 8km fromRamnagar. Modern,cosy cottages in shadyjungle-stylegardenbytheKosiRiver This intimate, excellent-value resort isnestled 1400-1900, dRs1850-2350,s/dcottages2400-2850; restaurants andbars. have resident naturalists,recreational facilities, which Allplaces includemealsandsafaris. here are forroomonly,butmosthave packages discounts of upto50%are offered. given Rates 474 Corbett Hideaway Infinity Resorts Tiger Camp Ramnagar train station is1.5kmsouthof trainstation Ramnagar 05942 /pop39,840elev1938m UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Nainital ) Thisimpressive resort hasluxurious

( %

( 2551963; www.tiger-camp.com;sRs % (sleeper/2AC Rs107/433) (

% 251279; s/d from Rs 4500/6000; 251279; s/dfromRs4500/6000; 284132; www.corbetthideaway as Theluxuri- ) Cor- a

) who usedtopatronisethisbookshop. books includingplentyrelating tolocalheroJimCorbett travellers cheques. TheATM acceptsinternationalcards. 10am-1pm Sat)Exchangesmajorforeign currencies and 4-7pm Tue-Sun) brochure. h Hospital BD Pandey Government Bank ofBarodaATM Information Mallital andTallital. rants are strungoutalongtheMall between the lake. andrestau- Mosthotels, guesthouses Head) (Lake’s lital atthenorthwestern endof promenade knownastheMall leadstoMal- and themainroadheadingwest.The1.5km end of thelake where you’llfindthebusstand Tallital Foot)isatthesoutheastern (Lake’s Orientation prices double. ispackedOctober –whenNainital andhotel May –roughly tomid-Julyand peak seasons horse ridingorpaddlingonthelake, but avoid good placetokickbackandrelax, eatwell,go Himalayanpeaks.Fortravellersdistant it’sa ested hillsidestoviewpointsoverlooking the spider webof walkingtrackscovers thefor- around thelake, there’s abusybazaarand recreation groundnowknownastheFlats. hotel and150people,creating thememorial ber 1880whenamajor landslideburieda struckhere District.Disaster Lake inDecem- homesick Britsreminded of theCumbrian Naina Devi Temple NainaDevi Shiva’s wife, ( to beoneofis said theemeraldgreen eyesof This pretty lake centrepiece isNainital’s and NAINI LAKE Sights &Activities office Tourism Uttarakhand BankofIndia State Post office Narains Library Municipal postoffice Main Cyberia cards. road toFairhavens. the Mall, Mallital) Mallital) the Mall, internet café. Offers CD burning, printing etc. CDburning,printing internet café.Offers thisisNainital’sbest 9pm) BehindSwadRestaurant, Plenty of hotels are intheforested set hills 10am-5pm Mon-Sat)AskforthehelpfulNainital (off the Mall, Mallital; perhrRs30; Mallital; (offtheMall, (the Mall; (theMall; (Tallital; (Tallital; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (Mallital; (Mallital; h (the Mall; (theMall; h , rebuilt after the 1880land- (Mallital; (Mallital; (Tallital) Acceptsinternational (Tallital) 10am-7.30pm) Good selection of 10am-7.30pm) Goodselection naina 10am-5pm Mon-Sat)Ontheside h h isSanskrit foreye). ( h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) % 8.30-10.30am & 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 235337; the Mall; 235337; theMall; ( % 235012; off h 9.30am-

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

d Rs Hina

475 and 235186) % (

235570; off the Mall, have hot water. hot water. have 235656; www.kmvn

offers one- or one- or offers A short hop off This uninspiring %

% ( (

offer bus tours of the of bus tours offer 231480; mountain_rovers@ 235632; Ramsey Rd, Tallital; % ( 235578; himtrekhotel@india4tourist

235035) % (

Anamika Travels %

( , % 236368; the Mall, Mallital; d Rs 300-600) (

% (

can organise treks that last six to that treks can organise 235860) KMVN Parvat Tours This is a simple guesthouse run by a % (

Hotel Lake View Hotels set higher up the hillside have great great setHotels higher have up the hillside For information on KMVN’s remote rest rest remote For information on KMVN’s KMVN Sarovar Tourist Hotel Hotel Himtrek Mountain Rovers the Mall, Himtrek has a variety of good-sized a variety of has Himtrek the Mall, rooms with TV, lack although the cheapest windows. views but require some strenuous walking walking some strenuous views but require to reach! BUDGET Kohli Hotel views from the top rooms and ter- lake Lovely this a back- make rates, race, and reasonable Light and clean rooms have favourite. packer TV bathrooms and the private dm/d year-round Rs 100/800) Tallital; the Mall, Mallital;.co.in; 400-700) d Rs Tours Tours as such the Mall along agencies Travel Tours Darshan Travels Park to Corbett National and tours local lakes from Rs 75 to 200. Sleeping they fill but with hotels Nainital is packed up fast in peak seasons when it’s hard to below are The prices given find a bargain. for the peak season and virtually all hotels in the off-season. around 50% discounts offer and to 30 June 1 May The peak is generally a semipeak at in October, some have and at Christmas. All (October/November) out. a 10am check have hotels offer rock-climbing courses at the rock- courses rock-climbing offer a 15m-high to rock outcrop area, climbing the town. the west of and abseiling rock-climbing courses three-day to advanced levelsfrom beginner Rs for in the treks can also organise 750/2000. They to Pindari glacier. and Kumaon region houses, .org; Tallital) nine days. rediffmail.com; Bada Bazaar, Mallital) Bada rediffmail.com; friendly family. The cheaper rooms drop to friendly family. The cheaper Rs 250 in the off-season. KMVN hotel rates a mention in the budget a mention in the budget rates KMVN hotel its dorm rooms, which becausecategory of in peak season. a bargain are 500-1200)

,

Jama 10.30am-5pm) •• Nainital (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND h , an amusement Nainital Boat Club Nainital Boat Cheena/Naina Peak (admission Rs 20; camera Rs

. , a 15-minute walk from , a 15-minute zoo Nainital Mountaineering Club Gadhan Kunkyop Ling Gompa Mountain Magic gurdwara (adult/child return Rs 70/45; (adult/child return

will sail round for Rs 120 between you and a 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) 235051; Mallital; Rs 100/200) 3hr course Indian/foreigner h A walk up to or back from Snow View can A walk up to or back from There’s also a hotel ( p477 ) with restaurant restaurant ) with p477 ( also a hotel There’s For holidaying families, a boat ride around families, a boat ride For holidaying cable car % ( ROCK CLIMBING & TREKKING ROCK CLIMBING & TREKKING The enthusiasts at Rs 250 if you go with one of the touts down at Rs 250 if you go with one of included). (transport to the horses Tallital Tiffin Top. A three-hour ride costs Rs 175, or A three-hour Top. Tiffin Mangy horses gather west of town on the road gather west of horses Mangy to Ramnagar on rides to beauty you to take as Dorothy Seat,spots such Land’s End and HORSE RIDING HORSE RIDING Himalayan animals, Siberian tigers and lots of and lots of Himalayan animals, Siberian tigers pheasant species. 20; containing enclosures has some large Tallital, NAINITAL NAINITAL ZOO This small hillside Land’s End (2118m) through a forest of oak, Land’s of End (2118m) through a forest deodar and pine. fin Top (2292m), also called Dorothy’s Seat, walk to 30-minute it’s a lovely from where TIFFIN TOP & LAND’S END TIFFIN TOP & LAND’S END brings you to Tif- the lake A 4km walk west of ful prayer flags should be visible). the road uphill from the Hotel City Heart and City Heart the road uphill from the Hotel off to the gompa (the colour- a path branches (monastery) of the Gelukpa order (of which which the Gelukpa order (of of (monastery) the Dalai Lama is the spiritual leader). Take 4km away. in the tiny take and bar. You can hike to hike You can and bar. stalls, as well as will love. park with rides that kids views, including Nanda Devi.views, including Nanda the top you’ll At and carnival find the usual food, souvenir runs up to the popular Snow View at 2270m, runs up to the popular Snow on clear days has panoramic Himalayan which SNOW VIEW & CABLE CAR SNOW VIEW & CABLE CAR A gondola-like boats, or the boats, or the gondola-like (Mallital) rowing boats can and Pedal 10am and 4pm. per hour. for Rs 50 to 80 also be hired the lake is de rigeur. Boatmen will row you for Boatmen will row you is de rigeur. the lake one way) in the brightlyRs 120 (Rs 50 painted Masjid slide, is on the precise spot where the eye is the spot where is on the precise slide, is the fallen. Nearby believedto have Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) 476 0 400 m NAINITAL 0 0.2 miles UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Nainital To Cheena/Naina A B C D Peak (2km); E F Tonnochy Rd Kilbury (12km) INFORMATION Snow View Bank of Baroda ATM...... 1 E2 (2270m) BD Pandey Government Hospital.....2 D2 19 1 Cyberia...... 3 D2 30 Main Post Office...... 4 D2 40 Municipal Library...... 5 F3 Narains...... 6 E2 Post Office...... 7 F4 State Bank of India & ATM...... 8 D2 Uttarakhand Tourism Office...... 9 E2 Cable Car 4 34 13 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES St John’s Church 33 14 Anamika Travels...... 10 E2 20 2 8 3 38 27 Methodist Church Boat Hire...... 11 E2 44 Bara 1 23 Boat Hire...... 12 E2 Sukhatal Bazar 28 42 Cable Car Ticket Office...... 13 D2 36 2 Mallital 37 Darshan Travels...... (see 25) the 12 22 6 Gadhan Kunkyop Ling Gompa...... 14 F2 17 Flats 11 9 Gurdwara...... 15 E2 39 15 The Mall Hina Tours...... (see 10) 10 Horse Stand...... 16 B3 Tibetan Jama Masjid...... 17 D2 Market 21 KMVN Parvat Tours...... 18 F4 Naini Lake Mountain Magic...... 19 F1 (Nainital) 5 Mountain Rovers...... 20 D2 South Mall Naina Devi Temple...... 21 D2 24 35 Nainital Boat Club...... 22 E2 East Laggan 16 25 Nainital Mountaineering Club...... 23 E2 26 Rock Climbing Area...... 24 B3 3 Rd To Mangoli Valley (Ghatgar; 23km); SLEEPING Ramnagar (65km); Kaladhungi (35km); Delhi (289km) St Francis’ Ramsey Rd Alka Hotel...... 25 F3 Ayarpatta Hill Catholic Evelyn Hotel...... 26 F3 Sonam Chowmien Corner...... 39 D2 Church 31 Hotel City Heart...... 27 E2 Swad Restaurant & Pastry Shop...(see 38) To Nainital Hotel Himtrek...... 28 E2 43 Zoo (1km) Hotel Lake View...... 29 F4 DRINKING Tiffin Top/ 29 Dorothy's Seat 18 Hotel Snow View Heritage...... 30 F1 Nainital Boat Club...... (see 22) (2292m) 7 Hotel Welcome Park...... 31 F3 Snow View Bar...... 40 F1 45 KMVN Sarovar Tourist Hotel...... 32 F4

Tallital lonelyplanet.com Kohli Hotel...... 33 D2 TRANSPORT 46 41 Palace Belvedere...... 34 D2 Kumaon Taxi Union Stand...... 41 F4 To 4 Rickshaw Ticket Booth...... 42 E2 32 Bhowali (11km); EATING Rickshaw Ticket Booth...... 43 F3 Bhimtal (22km); Café de Mall...... 35 F3 Share Jeeps...... (see 41) To Land's End Almora (67km); Embassy...... 36 E2 Sukhatal Bus Stand...... 44 C2 (200m) Pithoragarh (180km) Machan Restaurant...... 37 E2 Tallital Bus Stand...... To Land's End (150m)45 F4 To Kathgodam (35km); Sakley's Restaurant & Pastry Shop..38 E2 Train Booking Agency...... 46 F4 Haldwani (37km); Dehra Dun (387km)

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

and 477 This whips for next 235086; off 10am-10pm) momos %

( dhaba h 9am-10pm)

(off the Mall, Mallital; momos With a touch of of With a touch h Although there are Although there Thalis, Odd jungle-themed 237672; the Mall, Mallital;

(the Flats, Mallital;(the Flats, Rs meals % (

10am-7pm) 235527; the Mall, Tallital; meals Rs 235527; the Mall, Tallital; (The Mall, Mallital; temp membership In a log-cabin interior, this In a log-cabin interior,

10am-11pm) h %

( 235597; the Mall, Mallital;meals Rs 30- (

h % (

9am-4pm & 5.30-10.30pm) 11am-11pm) h In the covered alley part of the Tibetan the Tibetan alley part of covered In the h Sakley’s Restaurant Shop & Pastry Snow View Bar Embassy Machan Restaurant Sonam Chowmien Corner Sonam Swad Restaurant Shop & Pastry Cafe de Mall brary with books, magazines and newspapers. brary with books, magazines and newspapers. or thongs and signs code is no shorts Dress warn that ‘decorum should be maintained’. no views from the rustic bar, it’s worth drop- walking aroundping in for a beer (Rs 80) after the viewpoint. It’s below the cable car station. décor and a distinctive bamboo façade com- décor and a distinctive decent food including plement some pretty pizzas comfort food in the form of Western at work in the the chefs Watch and burgers. open kitchen. Drinking & Entertainment Nainital Boat Club men/women/couples Rs 300/150/300; the of club is a classic remnant This lakeside Raj. The atmospheric bar is all timber beams, and buttoned-up barmen with chairs wicker handlebar moustaches the outdoor deck- and drink overlook- for an afternoon ing is perfect is steep membership Temporary ing the lake. but facilities include card-playing rooms, tables (Rs 40), a gym (Rs 30) and a li- snooker the Mall, Mallital; 25-150; meals Rs serves spotless restaurant breezy, up some un- as Thai prawn dishes, such items usual global Chinese dishes, lamb, plenty of honey chicken, Dessertspizzas and sizzlers. include pastries cake. and Black Forest 180; and a veg There’s years. 40 for over items section with everything from dosasnonveg – for something different to big sizzler plates a good people- There’s ask for dancing coffee. terrace. watching meals Rs 40-120; 10-20) meals Rs 25-80, pastries 15) from Rs and homemade chocolates mouthwatering sweets busy. this place keep 20-130; café is lakeside this open-fronted the Parisian, but the menu ranges a good place for breakfast sizzlers. veg from fish curry to impressive Market, this authentic Tibetan this authentic Market, to nothing. up fabulous chow mein and chow up fabulous place has been serving menu of pages up five

The A bit of a A bit of •• Nainital (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND 238570; Snow View 238570; % ( 235552; www.hotelwelcome 235228; www.cityhearthotel 237434; www.welcomheritage %

( % All rooms are lake-facing lake-facing All rooms are ( 235457; the Mall, Tallital; d Rs 1200- 235457; the Mall, Tallital;

% ( This large Victorian-looking Victorian-looking This large

235220; www.alkahotel.com; the Mall; d % (

% It’s hard to beat the location of of the location to beat It’s hard (

Evelyn Hotel Alka Hotel Hotel Welcome Park Hotel City Heart Hotel Snow View Heritage Hotel View Snow Heritage Eating Eating especially restaurants, Nainital has a host of Market. and near the Tibetan along the Mall with comfortable rooms and an elegant dining room/lounge/veranda. of the rajas of Awagarh. Animal skins and Awagarh. Animal of the rajas of this classy hotel old prints adorn the walls of Built in 1897, this was the summer palace Built in 1897, this was the summer palace TOP END TOP END BelvederePalace communal areas, artworks and water fea- artworks and water communal areas, small but neat. Nearby is a Rooms are tures. annexe. budget Rs 2100-2800, ste Rs 3600) with flash hotel at this modern, upmarket modern hotel offers plain but comfortable offers modern hotel the lake. rooms with balconies overlooking park.com; Zoo Rd, Tallital; d/ste Rs 2050/2650) park.com; Zoo Rd, Tallital; than half. than half. with a view – it’s unquestionably a bargain with a view – it’s unquestionably a bargain in the off-season by more drop when rates small but cute to a fabulous deluxe room room deluxe to a fabulous small but cute rooftop terrace restaurant has fine lake views, lake has fine restaurant terrace rooftop this and pot plants and colourful décor give from Rooms range character. place plenty of .netfirms.com; off the Mall,.netfirms.com; Mallital; d Rs 1200-2500) terraced up the hillside amid pot plants and terraced but cheaper balconies – the higher rooms are clean and well maintained. all are Nainital – charming and slightlyNainital eccentric. – charming in size with rooms It’s a bit overwhelming 1800, ste Rs 3000-4000) is quintessential lake the overlooking hotel range prices in the off-season.range MIDRANGE MIDRANGE budget have the following hotels Most of depart. Rates rides on the cable include two Spacious to the front door. runs car, which as well as TV character old rooms have and hot water. with easy access to great walks and complete walks and complete to great with easy access crowds cable car stops and the peace once the this four-room Raj run by KMVN – bungalow this four-room View spot on Snow in a magical perched Peak; d Rs 800) d Peak; Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book .com; off the Mall, Mallital; s/d/ste Rs 3300/4400/4900) hike up the hill but accessible by road, this up the hill hike UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) nearest butHaldwani, trainstation, onestop Kathgodam (35kmsouthof isthe Nainital) TRAIN ali (Rs8)andKathgodam/Haldwani (Rs 40). Rs800toAlmoraorRanikhet. to Ramnagar, driverstaxi charge Rs300toKathgodam, Rs700 From theKumaonTaxi inTallital, Unionstand TAXI &SHARE JEEP 250), which leave at6amand10pm. luxe coaches (reclining toDelhi(Rs seats) hours). viaKaladhungi (Rs45,threerun toRamnagar toAlmora, andRanikhet. buses minutes) andcatch one of theregular onward Haldwani isalsoamajor trainterminus. nagar, DelhiandtheNepalborderatBanbassa. thetable, see bus stand, below . of leavingFor details buses fromtheTallital BUS Getting There&Away with cheap clothingandcrafts. lake neartheflatsisabusyTibetan Market a localspeciality.Onthesouthwestsideof the multicoloured candlesareIntricately carved handicrafts fromdifferent regions of India. textiles,and emporiumsselling clothingand iscrowdedwithsouvenirNainital shops Shopping 478 Share leave jeeps whenfull,andgotoBhow- regular busstand, buses From theSukhatal To gonorth,take abustoBhowali (Rs8,20 From Haldwani, regular headtoRam- buses Travel tickets agencies sell onprivate de- bus stand. The followingbusesleave from theTallital BUSES FROMNAINITAL ahoa A 2 1 half-hourly 5am 1½ the Haldwanibus A –take 150 Rishikesh 9 27 (A) Kathgodam early several 145 Haridwar 8 several Haldwani 32 10 2 half-hourly early Delhi 182 200 9 Dehra Dun morning morning (Rs) Destination Fares Duration Departures evening & (hr) morning UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Ranikhet 567; the Mall, 567; theMall, bus stand; cash. TheATM Innacceptsforeign cards. toRanikhet next 10am-1pmSat)Exchangestravellerschequesbutnot Fri, lent value. accommodationisexcel- in theoff-season a retreat and thansome otherhillstations, –it’smuch more ofmuch todoinRanikhet and viewsof snowcapped peaks,there’s not somepeacefulwalks museum, a military in forest English trees. andtall Apartfrom along thewindingMall Rdtobeimmersed bazaar area, butyoudon’thave towalkfar Himalaya. Thefocusof thetownisa busy hills withsomelovely viewsover thedistant atmosphere,tary spreads over rollinggreen and bristlingwithgoodold-fashioned mili- hometotheKumaonRegiment Ranikhet, % RANIKHET town costRs70to150. ticket booths ateitherend.Taxi rideswithin Mall, butcanonlypickupanddropoff atthe Cycle-rickshaws charge afixed Rs5alongthe Getting Around The daily andKolkata. radabad, Lucknow, Gorakhpur fortrainstoDehra Dun,Delhi,Mo- a quota 9am-2pmSat) Fri, The shawls and tweed. workersyou cansee at handloomsproducing army widows,isin aconverted church where tory closedSun) orabilia relating totheKumaonregiment. & 3-5pm) Museum Centre It’s worthdroppingintothe Sights &Activities office Tourism Uttarakhand BankofIndia State There’s asubpostofficeinSadarBazaar. postoffice Main MP CyberCafe Information arriving at5.55am. other direction, itdepartsDelhiat10.15pm, arrives at4.45am.Inthe atOldDelhistation 128/518) departsKathgodam at8.40pmand further south,istheregional transporthub. The 05966 /pop19,049elev1829m train booking agency train booking , stuffed fullof, stuffed mem- photosandmilitary KRC Shawl & Tweed Shop & Factory Shawl&TweedShopFactory KRC h h Ranikhet Express , runbyawelfare organisation for 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) (SadarBazaar;perhrRs30; , nexttotheTallital has busstand, 9am-1pm &3-6pm,shop closedWed,fac-

(off the Mall; admissionRs10; (off theMall; (the Mall; (theMall; (SadarBazaar; h (

h ( 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) % 9am-noon &2-5pmMon- Kumaon Regimental Kumaon Regimental (sleeper/2AC Rs h 220227; aboveUP lonelyplanet.com 10am-4pm Mon- h h 9am-8pm) 9am-noon 9am-noon (

% 220

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL)

noon- 479 h 220475; the Mall; s Rs 500-850, d (Sadar Bazaar; mains Rs 25-100)

226011; the Mall; d year-round Rs 221929; Sadar Bazaar; d Rs 1400- 220017; Sadar Bazaar; d Rs 350-900) 220017; Sadar Bazaar; This big, old hotel, just past This big, old hotel, % For a taste of Raj nostalgia, of For a taste (

% (temporary membership Rs 50; is an interesting mixture that that mixture is an interesting % % (

( (

Although modernised, the bar at the Ran- This stylish boutique hotel is head and is head boutique hotel This stylish Machan Restaurant Ranikhet Club Seven Bar Peaks Ranikhet Inn Hotel Rajdeep Hotel Meghdoot end of the bazaar, deluxe buses run to Delhi the bazaar, deluxe end of at 4pm, 4.30pm and 5pm,(Rs 420, 12 hours) to Ramnagar at 8.30am, (Rs 78, 4½ hours) at 8.30am (Rs 182, 10 hours) and to Haridwar and buses run to Haldwani and 3pm. Frequent (Rs 40, two hours) via Bhowali Kathgodam ride from Nainital. is only a short which the members bar, billiard room, card-playing the members restaurant court and stylish rooms, tennis (meals Rs 30 to 90). dishes of has a fine view and a good range tikka and biryani – the from pizza to chicken korma navratan includes papaya. 10pm) smartlyikhet – dress Club still has a colonial feel or cocktail 7pm. Enjoy a Kingfisher with aafter Himalayan view from the veranda. Getting There & Away From the UP Roadways bus stand at the eastern has some quaint historical touches, a range of of a range touches, has some quaint historical packed a veranda clean, spacious rooms, and Off-seasonwith pot plants and greenery. rates here. a bargain are 1600) Although little wear, the rooms are showing a TV with tiled floors, spotless and hot water, balconies command- and the best rooms have ing the best views in town. The patio restau- rant is recommended. look no further than the four classic rooms at wooden bungalow. this at this 1860 heritage is typified by army ambience The gentrified Sleeping, Eating & Drinking & Drinking Eating Sleeping, peak seasons the two Outside (generally to mid- to mid-July and 1 October mid-April reduced below are the prices given November) by 30% to 50%. in this hotels of a gloomy bunch The best of old-fashioned Rajdeep of has a big range area, the back ones at poky budget rooms from and view at veranda to spacious rooms with the front. Rs 750-1100, ste Rs 1350) 3km from the bazaar, the army headquarters shoulders above the others in Sadar Bazaar. in Sadar Bazaar. the others above shoulders 2400-3000, ste Rs 4200) At the Ranikhet restaurant Inn, this terrace

, To , an- (57km) Almora (32km); (4km) (1km); Dwarahat Temple Chaubattia 5 15 13

To Jhula Devi Gandh A3 A3 B3 A3 B3 A4 B3 A3 B3 A3 A3 B5 B3 A4

•• Ranikhet (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND Mahatma 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 B 3 2 10 11 12 13 14 15 Chaubattia Jhula Devi Temple 8 9 Sadar Bazaar 10 14 (56km) 00 600 m 0.4 miles 11 To Nainital 1 Church Catholic Mall 4 Stadium

Nar Singh the Approximate Scale Approximate 7 6 Centre Army Headquarters Kumaon Regimental A 12 Share Jeep Stand...... 12) Share Jeep Stand...... (see Taxi Stand...... UP Roadways Bus Stand...... Seven Peaks Bar...... (see 10) Seven Peaks Bar...... (see KMOU Bus Stand...... Hotel Meghdoot...... Hotel Rajdeep...... Ranikhet Club...... Ranikhet Inn...... 11) Machan Restaurant...... (see KRC Shawl & Tweed Shop & Factory...... Kumaon Regimental Centre Museum..... Main Post Office...... MP Cyber Café...... State Bank of India...... ATM...... (see 11) State Bank of India Office...... Uttarakhand Tourism Sadar Bazar Post Office...... B3 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING DRINKING TRANSPORT From the southern end of the Mall it’s a the Mall From the southern end of RANIKHET 5 2 3 1 4 To Ramnagar (76km) to the bazaar. through an archway to a viewpoint café near through an archway jeep (Rs 15) back a share Take some fruit trees. which is festooned with bells, and you can is festooned which carry on for a further 3km to you can turn left other army town, where pleasant 1km walk to the Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) 1pm Sat) ber, the temple plays host to a fair (see ber, thetemple plays hosttoafair(see p446 ). some erotic.Every Septem- in folk-art carvings, dates era,andiscovered backtotheChandRaja The stone Sights &Activities office Tourism Uttarakhand BankofIndia State Post office ally fromRs25perhour. Internet accessisavailable allover town,usu- Information around Kasar temple. Devi to ahippysubculture of travellers livingup often Westerners see floating aroundthanks munity-based weaving You’ll enterprises. liable trekking outfitsandacoupleof com- Almora hassomecolonial-erabuildings,re- notburstingWhile otherwise withinterest, ing placetostroll,people-watch andshop. tional woodenshop façades.It’safascinat- andpainted tradi- with intricately carved lined Bazaar, pedestrian-only cobbled Lalal –headoneblocksouthtothethe busstand main street whenyou’re first deposited at but don’tbeputoff bytheugly,shambolic climate viewsare andmountain attractions ofChand Rajas Kumaonin1560.Acool bythefirst asasummercapital established the sprawlingregional of capital Kumaon, Clinging toasteep-sidedvalley, Almora is % ALMORA costs Rs60to100. 15 toChaubattia.anywhere Ataxi intown A share totheMall jeep area costsRs5,or Getting Around bus stands. Haldwani (Rs75)fromneareitherof thetwo (Rs60)and (Rs 35),Almora50),Nainital at11.15am(Rs45,2½hours).to Nainital hourly from6.30amto2pm,andonebusgoes (Rs72,4½hours) two hours), toRamnagar of town,regular runtoAlmora(Rs44, buses 480 in frontofHotelShikhar. exchange currency. There’s anATM accepting foreign cards travellers chequesandonlyuptoUS$500, does not Express 10am-1pmSat)Onlyexchanges American Fri, h From theKMOU attheotherend busstand, Share leave jeeps whenfullforDwarahat 05962 /pop32,357elev1650m 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) TAAHN UTRNHL • Amr UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Almora (the Mall; (theMall; Nanda Devi TempleNanda Devi (the Mall; (theMall; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, ( h % in the Lalal Bazaar Bazaar intheLalal 10am-4pm Mon- 230180; Upper Mall; 230180; UpperMall; [email protected]; theMall) [email protected]; rently offers thebestdeals.Alsocheck with art andancientHindusculptures. including thePindariandMilamGlacier philosophy onlife. here Staying islike sleep- will regale of youwith tales Almoraandhis Shah, anengagingretired bankmanager, who runbyMr ourful andintriguingguesthouse dRs90-360) the Mall; for adiscount. sonal, butifit’snotbusyyoucanalwaystry Unlike pricesare mosthillstations notsea- Sleeping vices provided. depending onthesizeof thegroupandser- around Rs500to2000perperson perday, [email protected]; the Mall). near neighbour treks, dropinto the 3kmeasilyenough. Rs 120return tothefactory,butyoucanwalk than thesmallshop intheMall. Taxis charge The shophere hasawiderrange of products by handandisaninteresting placetovisit. ploys 300womentoweave shawlsand carpets Bageshwar Rd;admissionfree; free; Restaurant. Rs 600. It alsohasthegood MountView for goes a balcony,hot shower andaTV budgets. room with Aspacious, comfortable and offers amazeof rooms thatcovers all large, boxlike hotel isperched onahillside of townandbuilttotake intheviews,this dRs150-1500; the Mall; –someof thebackroomshave views. TV nondescriptroomswith clean, modernthough Rs 600) top roomhasaview. andarooftop terrace. The (some withTV) this isagoodbudget choice withtidyrooms Above inthebustlingbazaar, Café Bansal have commonbath. top are easilythebest.Thecheapest rooms rooms (such asthe‘honeymoonsuite’) atthe are mixed basicand aserious bag–thelarge therooms attic,though ing inamuseum’s The Kailas Hotel Kailas For organised treks andinformation, The small Hotel Shikhar Hotel Konark Hotel Bansal Hotel Bansal Hotel h Behind thepinkfaçade,Konarkhas Behind Panchachuli Weavers Factory Panchachuli Weavers 10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Pt

( % (

%

(

A slightly dilapidated Aslightly butcol- GB Pant Museum % ( % 230624; [email protected]; off 230624; [email protected]; Discover Himalaya Discover 230864; LalalBazaar;dRs200-250) High Adventure High a 231217; the Mall; dRs400-500,tr 231217; theMall; 230253; www.hotelshikhar.com; Dominatingthecentre ) h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) houses localfolk houses (the Mall; admission (the Mall;

Treks costs

, which cur- ( %

(

( % % 232310; off 232277; 236890; em- UTTARAKHAND

(UTTARANCHAL) Binsar 481 sells Surya sells (unfer- (spired) (spired) A popu- Mon-Sat) 10am-5pm) h paneer paneer , where Swami Swami , where h runs a daily de- sikhara (the Mall; 230279; LR Sah Rd; meals Rs (the Mall; , 38km northeast of Al- , 38km northeast of % (

(the Mall; meals Rs 20-80) 230860; the Mall) serving tasty Kasar Devi Temple % Mahila Haat (

at , 14km from Almora 14km from Almora at Katarmal, Jageshwar dhaba Panchachuli store Panchachuli This long-running family eatery on two on two family eatery This long-running Soni Restaurant A large temple complex is set in a forest of of complex is set temple in a forest A large Lion Tours Glory Restaurant panoramic views of the Himalayan peaks. the Himalayan panoramic views of at deodars back date and shrines The 124 temples mora. to the 7th century AD and vary from waist- high linga shrines to large Jageshwar a 4km walk from They are temples. luxe overnight bus to Delhi (Rs 280, 11 hours) bus to Delhi (Rs 280, 11 hours) overnight luxe at 7pm. leaves which AROUND ALMORA The hilltop Al- is 8km north of meditated, Vivekananda jeep (Rs by share mora and can be reached 15) or taxi (Rs 200). The 800-year-old jeep (Rs 15, 30 on any share by getting visited going to Ranikhet.minutes) Picturesque (2420m), 26km from Almora, was once the the Chand Rajassummer capital and is now of with trekking, a popular beauty spot for forest shawls and knitwear at reasonable prices.shawls and knitwear at reasonable Getting There & Away Buses run from the adjacent UP Roadways and roughly hourly bus stands on the Mall KMOU until 3pm to Ranikhet (Rs 40, two hours), (Rs and Bhowali (Rs 40, 2½ hours) Kausani it’s only a short From Bhowali 40, two hours). ride to Nainital. Hourly bus or share-jeep buses (Rs 56, two hours), run to Bageshwar you can pick up buses or share from where jeeps for the Pindari to Song and Munsyari a 6.30am There’s and Milam glacier treks. from hours) bus to Pithoragarh (Rs 90, five the Dharanaula bus stand Rd. on the Bypass to BanbassaOne bus goes direct (Rs 130, six stand for the Nepal from the KMOU hours) border crossing. (Sun) temple and a 2km walk from the main road, can be lar Sikh and mutton dishes cheese), chicken mented and eggcurry. 25-60) and modern and serves is clean floors up popu- dishes. North Indian veg lar South and Shopping The tiny madehigh-quality shawls and tweeds that are Run by a women’slocally using natural dyes. cooperative, 16 (38km); (122km) B4 A5 B4 B4 B4 B5 A4 A5 B4 A4 A5 A5 B5 A5 A5 A5 B4 B4 A4 7 Pithoragarh 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 To Jageshwar 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Munsyari (220km)

B 13

Bypass Rd Bypass LR Sah Rd Sah LR (fudge covered covered (fudge 9 11 15 (Lalal Bazaar; drinks & To Kasar Devi Temple (8km);

14 Lalal

Bazaar

Katarmal (14km); Binsar (26km); The Mall The Bageshwar (83km); Song (140km); 19 00 500 m 0.3 miles 8 3 18 10 ball mithai Clock Tower 20 17 6 12 •• Around Almora (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND 1 4 Bageshwar Rd 5 Upper Mall Rd This simple café in a lane between A 2 Gandhi Statue Lion Tours...... Taxi & Share Jeep Stand...... UP Roadways Bus Stand...... Mahila Haat...... (see 18) Mahila Haat...... (see Panchachuli Store...... Dharanaula Bus Stand...... KMOU Bus Stand...... Bansal Espresso Bar & Café...... (see 9) Bansal Espresso Bar & Café...... (see Glory Restaurant...... 11) Mount View Restaurant...... (see Soni Restaurant...... Bansal Hotel...... Hotel Konark...... Hotel Shikhar...... Kailas Hotel...... Discover Himalaya...... High Adventure...... Pt GB Pant Museum...... Police Station...... Post Office...... State Bank of India...... ATM...... (see 11) State Bank of India Office...... Uttarakhand Tourism Nanda Devi Temple...... B4 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING SHOPPING TRANSPORT

Bansal Espresso Bar & Cafe ALMORA 5 2 3 1 4 To Panchachuli Weavers Factory (2km); Ranikhet (50km); Kausani (51km) To Bhowali (56km); Nainital (67km) the Mall and Lalal Bazaarthe Mall serves up a wide drinks and snacks, including good of range and samosas. chat lassis, coffee, in sugar), available in sweet shops for Rs 3. in sugar), available snacks Rs 12-25) Eating Eating A local speciality is lonelyplanet.com UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) h tion’ –suggested ataround Rs400perday. can bearranged. Thecostof atouris‘bydona- tents. Ifyoucan’tmake itback upthehills,taxis bikes,including sturdymountain panniers and supply allthegear forone-ortwo-day rides, in theforests andhillsaroundKausani. He can Yogi Mueller,offers exhilarating cyclingtours long-time Kausani resident and keen cyclist, .bikingindia.zoomshare.com; telescope skyisclear). (whenthenight ing show to attend prayers nightly inhismemory. photographsthrough andwords.Visitat7pm h in 1929.Ithasasmall easy andscenicwalk. road toBajinath, aRs5share-jeep rideoran annually. It’s3kmnorthof the village onthe The factoryproducesabout45tonnesof tea ucts, which are exported aroundtheworld. look around the government andlocalfarmers, youcan thatinvolvestea plantation private enterprise, .com; admissionfree; At Sights &Activities office Tourism Uttarakhand Global Infotech in Almora. The nearest currency exchange orATM is Information tohimhere.devoted Anasakti Yoga treat andwrite hisBhagavad translation Gita found Kausani aninspirationalplacetore- find innorthernIndia. Mahatma Gandhi climate andasrelaxed anatmosphere asyou’ll snow-cappedpeaks,freshdistant air,acool tiny village haslovely panoramicviewsof Perched onaforest-covered high ridge, this % KAUSANI eshwar, butgetting backcouldbedifficult. A bus(Rs30)leaves AlmoraatnoonforJag- which can be reached (Rs600return). bytaxi 482 h considerable timeandwrote sakti Ashram Yogi’s Uttarakhand CycleTours Uttarakhand Yogi’s ( Restaurant Hill Queen right ) hasa About 1kmuphillfromthebusstand, Kausani TeaKausani Estate 8am-7pm) 5am-10pm) Internetaccess. 05962 /pop4000elev1890m 10am-5pm) TAAHN UTRNHL • Kuai UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) ••Kausani

(admission Rs10; thattells thestoryof Gandhi’slife is where Mahatma Gandhispent

and sample andbuyitsprod- and sample (AnasaktiAshramRd;perhrRs40; andthere isstillanashram h

( 9am-6pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov) % h h 258330; www.uttaranchaltea Mar-May &Sep-Nov) Mar-May museum ( 7.30 &8.30pm) % 258067; the Mall; 258067; theMall;

( Anasakti Yoga %

(admission free; 258012; www witha , led by , ledby stargaz- Ana- , a

tea garden 3km north of Kausani village, these tea garden3kmnorthof Kausani village, these Eating rockingchairs,dows andeven are thebest. spacious upstairs roomswithbalcony,baywin- table. Allroomsare wellkept andcomfy,butthe views), aclassrestaurant, agymandpool clipped formalgardens(perfect formountain kti Ashram, thisisKausani’s smartest hotel with .com; AnasaktiAshramRd;dRs1800-3000) showers. Themanager ishelpfulandfriendly. upper-floor roomsare spaciousandallhave hot modation. Thecheaper roomsare smallbut veranda, thisisKausani’s bestvalueaccom- a panoramicviewof theHimalaya fromyour butinaquietlocationwith from thebusstand dRs550-1250; kausani.zoomshare.com; and viewsacross thegardenstomountains. than theyappear,withcleantiledbathrooms,TV Inside,they’re ful placetostay. alotmore comfy round, hobbit-stylehutsare aquirkyandpeace- jnath Rd;hutsfromRs500,r400) with basicroomsfromRs100to400. cheap inKausaniseveral payingguesthouses listed beloware discounted by50%. There are June andOctober) the accommodationprices (MayOutside thetwoshort peakseasons to Sleeping charge Rs60. Heading run every north,buses take ashare (Rs 5).Direct jeep share jeeps on thebypassroad, fromwhere to youneed generallybut afternoon stop atKarbala buses 45, 2½hours) run abouthourlytoAlmora, share stopinthevillage jeeps centre. (Rs Buses There’s and assuch butbuses nobusstand Getting There&Away days youcaneatinthelovely garden. dishes. Onwarm andContinental Chinese ing roomoffers someof Kausani’s bestIndian, At KrishnaMountview,thisformalhotel din- tea canbeenjoyedonthepatio. dients. Imported espresso coffee andKausani some Kumaonspecialities,usingfresh ingre- tochillifrom Swiss chicken roesti aswell upagreat rangerant here of dishes serves this placepopular. Goodlassis andsnacks. anda andastargazing telescope (Rs10)make 25-40; QueenRestaurant Hill Krishna Mountview Krishna Uttarakhand Hotel Resort Village Kausani Vaibhav Hotel Uttarakhand Hotel i ) Panoramic viewsfromthebackver-

(meals Rs90-180; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(meals Rs30-100)

( ( (Anasakti AshramRd;mealsRs % %

( % h 258008; www.kumaonindia 258012; www.uttarakhand 258353, 9412958936;Ba- breakfast, lunch&dinner) Overlooking the the Overlooking i JustpastAnasa- Up some steps Upsomesteps ) The restau-

UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) 483 district which which 225527) 225434; dm Rs 100,

% ( % in Pithoragarh.

( 222202) tourist office % (

KMVN Rest House . (7km) for views of the Panchachuli the Panchachuli (7km) for views of 05964 / pop 41,157 / elev 1815m 05964 / pop 41,157 / elev

The town has a Several for Almora from 4.30am buses leave Several buses daily (Rs 57, to Almora go PINDARI GLACIER TREK PINDARI GLACIER TREK passes through 94km trek This six-day, truly shep- by only a few country inhabited virgin Nanda wonderful views of herds and offers Kot (6860m) and Nanda Khat (6611m) on Nanda Devi Sanctuary. the southern rim of the trail. The 3km-long, soar over Eagles often region that borders Tibet and Nepal and has and Tibet that borders region several an old fort. and Chand-era temples valley that has beenThe town sits in a small hikes and picturesque dubbed ‘Little Kashmir’ climb up to include the rewarding in the area Chandak permits are Chimneys) massif. Trekking (Five the with not normally needed but check magistrate’s office guides and informa- can help with trekking tion, and a Regular busesto go hours). to 10am (Rs 90, five (the railhead, and Tanakpur Delhi Haldwani, 151km south). Buses run north to Munsyari the trailhead for Milam (Rs 100, eight hours), jeeps. Glacier, as do the ubiquitous share three hours) and Ranikhet and hours) three hours) (Rs 80, three a share or take 30, 1½ hours), (Rs via Kausani buses run Frequent jeep and change. to Garur and Haldwani 105, six hours) (Rs to Bhowali and busesrun up to Jeeps hours). (Rs 140, 7½ to for connections 30, two hours) Gwaldam (Rs the 7am take Pindari Glacier trek, Garhwal. For for Milam and (Rs 25, two hours), bus to Song 75, six hours). Glacier, to Munsyari (Rs PITHORAGARH % a little-visited of Pithoragarh is the main town d Rs 500-700) is -style Bagnath sikhara , next to the Baijnath village 220034; www.kmvn % (

220109; s Rs 200-400, d Rs 300- 220034; Tarcula Rd; dm Rs 70, s/d 220034; Tarcula % (

% ( KMVN office •• Around Kausani (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND

where guides can be arranged. where has reasonable, spacious rooms and has reasonable, . Dedicated to Shiva, this important tem- to Shiva, . Dedicated 05963 / pop 7803 / elev 975m ROSE – VILLAGE VOLUNTEERS ROSE – VILLAGE VOLUNTEERS for Social Elevation (ROSE) is a village-based Rural Organisation charitable projectThe that encour- living and working volunteers rural communities. with the ages ‘village tourism’ – international Based at Kanda local communities village near Bageshwar in the Kumaon hills, ROSE works with stay with ROSE Volunteers on agricultural and environmental projects, education and health care. farming, housing to projects including organic his family and contribute and founder Jeevan Verma in schools and administration. It’s not all work, with plenty of opportunityconstruction, teaching to with villagers, learn Hindi,interact practice cooking ROSE is and take excursions into the Himalaya. had good and we’ve (WWOOF) organisation Farms with the Willing Workers on Organic affiliated Village For information, contact ROSE (Jeevan Lal Verma, from volunteers. feedback first-hand PO Kanda,Sonargaon, Uttarakhand www.rosekanda.info. at 236 631), or check the website Take a Bageshwar bus from Kausani, or a bus from Kausani, a Bageshwar Take Hotel Annapurna About 1km from the bus stand, the large 1km from the bus stand, the large About Rs 200/300) guides. staff can help with trekking here a jumping-off point for the Pindari Glacier a jumping-off a – there’s trek tures impressive carvings. lined are impressive Both rivers tures can be usedwith bathing ghats. Bageshwar as Temple all sizes and fea- with bells of ple is festooned % Sarju the Gomti and Riv- At the confluence of town, pilgrimage is a bustling Bageshwar ers, Hindu pilgrims file in throughout thewhere at the ancient stone year to worship (Rs 20) to Baijnath. A return taxi from Kausani(Rs 20) to Baijnath. A return is Rs 400. BAGESHWAR Several other Shaivite shrines are in the old Several are shrines Shaivite other Baijnath. walk north of a 10-minute village, jeep (Rs 20) to Garur and then anothershare tion shaded by trees alongside the Gomti River. alongside the Gomti River. tion shaded by trees famous for its small 12th-century famous for its small 12th-century The main group is devoted to Shiva temples. loca- and his consort Parvati and has a lovely About 19km north of Kausani, Kausani, 19km north of About buses and jeeps to Garhwal (via Karnaprayag). A taxi 800. Almora costs around Rs to AROUND KAUSANI to Garur, 16km north of Kausani, from where from where Kausani, north of to Garur, 16km jeeps for onward go to Gwaldam other share two hours to Bageshwar via Baijnath to Bageshwar (Rs 40, two hours run jeeps 20, 30 minutes) (Rs Share 1½ hours). lonelyplanet.com 500, with shared bathroom s/d Rs 100/200) 500, with shared .org; Tarcula Rd) .org; Tarcula bus stand, has a pleasant riverside terrace at terrace bus stand, has a pleasant riverside the back and simple, functional rooms. KMVN Guesthouse UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) check thisinformation before yougo as it another 30kmor two days. campadds base East side triptoNanda Devi of theGoriGanga River. A popularbuttough gorgesand alongthesometimesspectacular country totheeastof (7816m) NandaDevi magnificentrugged through China. Itpasses Indiaand in 1962followingthewarbetween ancient traderoute toTibet which wasclosed massive glacierat3450misreached alongan A challenging 118kmtrek eight-day, tothis TREK GLACIER MILAM Rs 1600. fromAlmoratoSongcostsaroundtaxi Almora andBageshwar viaKausani. A jeep cantake youbetween Bageshwar, andbuses (Rs 50,1½hours) Songand runbetween may prefer tocamp. inMaytion canbeasqueeze and June,soyou the route andfoodisavailable. Accommoda- or tresses onthefloorRs150),basicguesthouses Bageshwar forRs3500.KMVNdorms(mat- operates all-inclusive six-daytreks outof places orinAlmora. Alternatively KMVN A guideandporters canbeorganised inboth (1140m), avillage 36kmnorthof Bageshwar. aren’t butbringyourpassport. needed take iteasytoavoid altitudesickness.Permits 365m-wide Pindari Glacierisat3353m, so 484 Permits are notrequired atpresent but (Rs25,twohours)Buses orshare jeeps The trek beginsandfinishes at Visas are availableforUS$30attheborder between 9amand5pm. Visas at10.30am(Rs730,16hours). and 2.15pm.There’s service alsoasinglePokhara Hwy,fromwhere (Rs750,16hours)at5am,8.30am busesleaveon theMahendra forKathmandu arickshawtoMahendranagar.From theborder,take The busstationisabout1kmfromthecentre Onward Transport is noforeign currency exchange. willchangeIndiancurrency toNepalirupeesbutthereBanks inBanbassaandMahendranagar Foreign Exchange If youalready have avisatheborderisopen24hours,butbefore Border Hours CROSSING INTONEPAL is officiallymannedfrom9amto5pm. need togoinsearchofofficialsstampyouandouttherespective countries. The border dhaba UTTARAKHAND (UTTARANCHAL) GlacierTrek ••Milam huts (Rs50to200)are dotted along Song

accommodation inMunsyariincludesa cook andporters canbehired. Theplentiful village of treks outof MunsyariforRs4500. deserted. supplies asvillages ontheroute maybe atentwill alsoneed andyourownfood change,might andbringyourpassport.You which runstoAlmora andDelhi. head atBareilly. Abetter option is thebus metre-gauge localtrainsruntothe main rail- landslides andwashed-out bridges. in western Nepalare often dueto impassable theroads because mediate postmonsoonseason should notbeattempted inthemonsoonorim- safe, troublecanflare upatanytime. Itcertainly region is –whiletheembassyinsistseverything ing inviewof Maoist activityinNepal’swestern in Nepalbefore usingthisremote bordercross- away, butyoushould check thecurrent situation Nepal borderpostof Mahendranagar, 5km Indianvillage istheclosest tothe Banbassa pop 7138 BANBASSA Bageshwar (Rs75,sixhours). hours)from Pithoragarh(Rs100,eight and andshare runtoand Rs 2500.Buses jeeps costsaround hours) taxi fromAlmora;ajeep House Rest A dailybusrunstoMunsyari(Rs170,11 KMVN organises all-inclusive eight-day Although Banbassa has a train station, only hasatrainstation, Banbassa Although The trailhead is the spectacularly located The trailheadisthespectacularly

( Munsyari Munsyari % 05961-222339; dmRs100,d600-750)

7am andafter 5pmyoumay (2290m) where aguide, lonelyplanet.com KMVN .

© Lonely Planet Publications www.lonelyplanet.com 485 (UTTARANCHAL) UTTARAKHAND

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